Chapter XXIII: Letter XXI (1)

JOURNEY TO PARIS. DREUX. HOUDAN. VERSAILLES. ENTRANCE INTO PARIS.

_Paris, Rue Faubourg Poissonière, May_ 30, 1819.

"Time and the hour runs through the roughest day." They must be protacted miseries indeed which do not, at some period or other, have something like a termination. I am here, then my good friend--safe and sound at last; comfortably situated in a boarding house, of which the mistress is an agreeable Englishwoman and the master an intelligent Swiss. I have sauntered, gazed, and wondered--and exchanged a thousand gracious civilities! I have delivered my epistolary credentials: have shaken hands with Monsieur Van Praet; have paced the suite of rooms in which the renowned BIBLIOTHEQUE DU ROI is deposited: have traversed the _Thuileries_ and the _Louvre_; repeatedly reconnoitred the _Boulevards_; viewed the gilt dome of the _Hôtel des Invalides_, and the white flag upon the bronze-pillar in the _Place Vendome_; seen crowds of our countrymen at _Meurice's_ and in the hotels about the _Rue de la Paix;_ partaken of the rival ices of _Tortoni_ and the _Caffé des Mille Colonnes_; bought old French poetry at a Bouquiniste's: and drank Chambertin and Champagne at the richly garnished table of our ----. These are what may be called good _foreground objects_ in the composition of a Parisian picture. Now for the filling up of the canvas with appropriate and harmonizing detail.

A second reflection corrects however the precipitancy of such a proposal; for it cannot be, in this my _first_ despatch, that you are to receive any thing like an adequate notion of the topics thus hastily thrown together on the first impulse of Parisian inspiration. Wait patiently, therefore: and at least admire the methodical precision of my narrative. My last letter left me on the eve of departure from Falaise; and it is precisely from that place that I take up the thread of my journal. We were to leave it, as I told you, in the Diligence--on the evening of the Sunday, immediately following the date of the despatch transmitted. I shall have reason to remember that journey for many a day to come; but, "post varios casus, &c." I am thankful to find myself safely settled in my present comfortable abode. The Sabbath, on the evening of which the Diligence usually starts for Paris, happened to be a festival. Before dawn of day I heard incessant juvenile voices beneath the window of my bedroom at the Grand Turc; What might this mean? Between three and four, as the day began to break, I rose, and approaching the window, saw, from thence, a number of little boys and girls busied in making artificial flower-beds and sand-borders, &c. Their tongues and their bodily movements were equally unintermitting. It was impossible for a stranger to guess at the meaning of such a proceeding; but, opening the window, I thought there could be no harm in asking a very simple question--which I will confess to you was put in rather an irritable manner on my part ... for I had been annoyed by their labours for more than the last hour. "What are you about, there?" I exclaimed--"Ha, is it you Sir?" replied a little arch boy--mistaking me for some one else. "Yes, (resumed I) tell me what you are about there?" "in truth, we are making _Réposoirs_ for the FETE-DIEU: the Host will pass this way by and bye. Is it not a pretty thing, Sir?" exclaimed a sweetly modulated female voice. All my irritability was softened in a moment; and I was instantly convinced that Solomon never delivered a wiser sentiment than when he said--"A soft answer turneth away wrath!" I admitted the prettiness of the thing without comprehending a particle of it: and telling them to speak in a lower key, shut the window, and sought my bed. But sleep had ceased to seek me: and the little urchins, instead of lowering their voices, seemed to break forth in a more general and incessant vociferation. In consequence, I was almost feverish from restlessness--when the fille de chambre announced that "it was eight o'clock, and the morning most beautiful."

These _réposoirs_ are of more importance than you are aware of. They consist of little spots, or spaces in the streets, garnished with flowers, and intersected by walks, marked with fine gravel, in the centre of which the Host rests, on its passing to and fro from the several parishes. When I rose to dress, I observed the work of art--which had been in progress during the night--perfectly complete. Passengers were forbidden to trespass by pieces of string fastened to different parts by way of a fence--or, whoever chose to walk within, considered themselves bound to deposit a sous as the condition of gratifying their curiosity. Upon the whole, this réposoir might be about sixteen feet square. Towards eleven o'clock the different religious ceremonies began. On one side the noise of the drum, and the march of the national guard, indicated that military mass was about to be performed; on the other, the procession of priests, robed and officiating--the elevation of banners--and the sonorous responses of both laity and clergy--put the whole town into agitation, and made every inmate of every mansion thrust his head out of window, to gaze at the passing spectacle. We were among the latter denomination of lookers on, and recognised, with no small gratification, our clerical friends Messieurs Mouton, Langevin, and the huge father confessor at Guibra, followed by a great number of respectable citizens, among whom the Comte de la Fresnaye and his amiable and intelligent son (recently married) made most respectable figures; They approached the réposoir in question. The priests, with the Host, took their station within it; silence followed; one officiating clergyman then knelt down; shut, what seemed to be, the wooden covers of a book,--with, considerable violence--rose--turned round, and the procession being again put in motion--the whole marched away to the church of the Holy Trinity;--whither I followed it; and where I witnessed what I was unable to comprehend, and what I should not feel much disposed to imitate. But let every country be allowed to reverence and respect its own particular religious ceremonies. We may endure what we cannot commend ... and insult and disrespect are among the last actions which a well regulated mind will shew in its treatment of such matters. I should add, that these réposoirs, a few hours after the performance of the ceremony just described, are indiscriminately broken up: the flowers and the little sand banks falling equally a prey to the winds and the feet of the passenger.

Opposite to the inn was an hospital for the female sick. It had been formerly an establishment of very considerable extent and celebrity; but whether it was originally connected with the hospital of the _Léproserie de Saint Lasare_, (about which the Abbé Langevin's History of Falaise is rather curious) the _Hôtel-Dieu_, or the _Hôpital Général_, I cannot take upon me to pronounce. Certain it is, however, that this establishment does great credit to those who have the conduct of it. As foreigners, and particularly as Englishmen, we were permitted to see the whole, without reserve. On my return from witnessing the ceremony at the church of the Trinity, I visited this hospital: my companion having resumed his graphic operations before the Castle. I shall not easily forget the face and figure of the matron. To a countenance of masculine feature, and masculine complexion--including no ordinary growth of beard, of a raven tint--she added a sturdy, squat, muscular figure--which, when put into action, moved in a most decided manner. A large bunch of massive keys was suspended from a girdle at her side; and her dress, which was black, was rendered more characteristic and striking, by the appearance of, what are yet called, _bustles_ above her hips. As she moved, the keys and the floor seemed equally to shake beneath her steps. The elder Smirke would have painted this severe Duenna-like looking matron with inimitable force and truth. But ... she no sooner opened her mouth, than all traits of severity vanished. Her voice was even musical, and her "façon de parler" most gracious. She shewed me the whole establishment with equal good humour and alertness; and I don't know when I ever made such a number of bows (to the several female patients in the wards) within such limited time and space. The whole building has the air of a convent; and there were several architectural relics, perhaps of the end of the fifteenth century, which I only regretted were not of portable dimensions; as, upon making enquiry, little objection seemed to be made to the gratuitous disposal of them.

The hour for departure, after sun-set, having arrived, we were summoned to the Diligence when, bidding adieu to the very worthy host and hostess of the _Grand Turc_, (whom I strongly recommend all Englishmen to visit) I made up my mind for a thirty-six hour's journey--as I was to reach Paris on Tuesday morning. The day had been excessively hot for the season of the year; and the night air was refreshing. But after a few snatches of sleep--greatly needed--there appeared manifest symptoms of decay and downfall in the gloomy and comfortless machine in which we took our departure. In other words, towards daylight, and just as we approached _L'Aigle_, the left braces (which proved to be thoroughly rotted leather) broke in two: and down slid, rather than tumbled, the Falaise Diligence! There were two French gentlemen, and an elderly lady, besides ourselves in the coach. While we halted, in order to repair the machine, the Frenchmen found consolation in their misfortune by running to a caffé, (it was between four and five in the morning), rousing the master and mistress, and as I thought, peremptorily and impertinently asking for coffee: while they amused themselves with billiards during its preparation. I was in no humour for eating, drinking, or playing: for here was a second sleepless night! Having repaired this crazy vehicle, we rumbled on for _Verneuil_; where it was exchanged for a diligence of more capacious dimensions. Here, about eleven o'clock, we had breakfast; and from henceforth let it not be said that the art of eating and drinking belongs exclusively to our country:--for such manifestations of appetite, and of attack upon substantials as well as fluids, I had scarcely ever before witnessed. I was well contented with coffee, tea, eggs, and bread--as who might not well be?... but my companions, after taking these in flank, cut through the centre of a roast fowl and a dish of stewed veal: making diversions, in the mean while, upon sundry bottles of red and white wine; the fingers, during the meal, being as instrumental as the white metal forks.

We set off at a good round trot for _Dreux_: and, in the route thither, we ascended a long and steep hill, having _Nonancourt_ to the left. Here we saw some very pretty country houses, and the whole landscape had an air of English comfort and picturesque beauty about it. Here, too, for the first time, I saw a VINEYARD. At this early season of the year it has a most stiff and unseemly look; presenting to the eye scarcely any thing but the brown sticks, obliquely put into the ground, against which the vine is trained. But the sloping banks, on each side of the ascending road, were covered with plantations of this precious tree; and I was told that, if the _autumn_ should prove as auspicious as appeared the _spring_, there would be a season of equal gaiety and abundance. I wished it with all my heart. Indeed I felt particularly interested in the whole aspect of the country about _Nonancourt_. The sun was fast descending as we entered the town of _Dreux_--where I had resolved upon taking leave both of the diligence and of my companions; and of reaching Paris by post. At seven we dined, or rather perhaps made an early supper; when my fellow travellers _sustained_ their reputation for their powers of attack upon fish, flesh, and fowl. Indeed the dinner was equally plentiful and well cooked; and the charge moderate in proportion. But there is nothing, either on the score of provision of reasonableness of cost, like the _table d'hôte_ throughout France; and he who cannot accommodate himself to the hour of dining (usually about one) must make up his mind to worse fare and treble charges.

After dinner we strolled in the town, and upon the heights near the castle. We visited the principal church, _St. Jean_, which is very spacious, and upon the whole is a fine piece of architecture. I speak more particularly of the interior--where I witnessed, however, some of the most horrible devastations, arising from the Revolution, which I had yet seen. In one of the side chapels, there _had been_ a magnificent monument; perhaps from sixteen to twenty feet in height--crowded with figures as large as life, from the base to the summit. It appeared as if some trenchant instrument of an irresistible force, had shaved away many of the figures; but more especially the heads and the arms. This was only one, but the most striking, specimen of revolutionary Vandalism. There were plenty of similar proofs, on a reduced scale. In the midst of these traces of recent havoc, there was a pleasure mingled with melancholy, in looking up and viewing some exceedingly pretty specimens of old stained glass:--which had escaped the destruction committed in the lower regions, and had preserved all their original freshness. Here and there, in the side chapels, the priests were robing themselves to attend confession; while the suppliants, in kneeling attitudes, were expecting them by the side of the confessionals. From the church I bent my steps to the principal bookseller of the place, whom I found to be an intelligent, civil, and extremely good-natured tradesman. But his stock was too modern. "Donnez vous la peine de monter"--exclaimed he precipitately; begging me to follow him. His up-stairs collection was scarcely of a more ancient character than that below. There were more copies of _Voltaire_ and _Rousseau_ than I should have supposed he could sell in six years--but "on the contrary" (said he) "in six months' time, not a single copy will remain unsold!" I marvelled and grieved at such intelligence; because the poison was not extracted from the nourishment contained in these works. To an enquiry about my old typographical friends, _Verard, Pigouchet_, and _Eustace_, the worthy bibliopole replied "qu'il n'avoit jamais entendu parler de ces gens-la!" Again I marvelled; and having no temptation to purchase, civilly wished him good evening.

Meanwhile Mr. L. had attained the castle heights, and was lost in a sort of extacy at the surrounding scene. On entering the outer walls, and directing your steps towards the summit, you are enchanted with a beautiful architectural specimen--in the character of a zigzag early Norman arch--which had originally belonged to a small church, recently taken down: The arch alone stands insulated ... beyond which, a new, and apparently a very handsome, church is erecting, chiefly under the care and at the expence of the present Duke of Orleans;--as a mausoleum for his family--and in which, not many days before our arrival, the remains of one of his children had been deposited. I wished greatly for a perfect drawing of this arch ... but there was no time ... and my companion was exercising his pencil, on the summit, by a minute, bird's eye of the sweep of country to be seen from this elevated situation--through the greater part of which, indeed, the diligence from _Verneuil_ had recently conducted us. I should add, that not a relic of that CASTLE, which had once kept the town and the adjacent country in awe, is now to be seen: but its outer walls enclose a space hardly less than twenty acres:--the most considerable area which I had yet witnessed. To give a more interesting character to the scenery, the sun, broad and red, was just hiding the lower limb of his disk behind the edge of a purple hill. A quiet, mellow effect reigned throughout the landscape. I gazed on all sides; and (wherefore, I cannot now say) as I sunk upon the grass, overwhelmed with fatigue and the lassitude of two sleepless nights, wished, in my heart, I could have seen the effect of that glorious sun-set from, the heights of Dover. Now and then, as when at school, one feels a little home-sick; but the melancholy mood which then possessed me was purely a physical effect from a physical cause. The shadows of evening began to succeed to the glow of sun-set--when, starting from my recumbent position, (in which sleep was beginning to surprise me) I hastened down the heights, and by a nearer direction sought the town and our hotel. We retired betimes to rest--but not until, from an opposite coach maker, we had secured a phaeton-like carriage to convey us with post horses, the next day, to Paris.

Excellent beds and undisturbed slumber put me in spirits for the grand entrée into the metropolis of France. Breakfasting a little after nine--before ten, a pair of powerful black horses, one of which was surmounted by a sprucely-attired postilion--with the phaeton in the rear--were at the door of the hotel. Seeing all our baggage properly secured, we sprung into the conveyance and darted forward at a smart gallop. The animals seemed as if they could fly away with us--and the whip of the postilion made innumerable circular flourishes above their heads. The sky was beautifully clear: and a briskly-stirring, but not unpleasantly penetrating, south-east wind, played in our faces as we seemed scarcely to be sensible of the road. What a contrast to the heat, vexation, and general uncomfortableness of the two preceding days of our journey! We felt it sensibly, and enjoyed it in proportion. Our first place of halting, to change horses, was at HOUDAN; which may be about four leagues from Dreux; and I verily believe we reached it in an hour. The route thither is through a flat and uninteresting country; except that every feature of landscape (and more especially in our previous journeys through Normandy) seems to be thrown to a greater distance, than in England. This may account for the flatness of views, and the diminutiveness of objects. Houdan is a village-like town, containing a population of about 2000 inhabitants; but much business is done on market days; and of _corn_, in particular, I was told that they often sold several thousand sacks in a day. Its contiguity to Paris may account for the quantity of business done. In the outskirts of the town,--and flanked, rather than surrounded, by two or three rows of trees, of scarcely three years growth--stands the "stiff and stower" remains of the _Castle of Houdan_. It is a very interesting relic, and to our eyes appeared of an unusual construction. The corner towers are small and circular; and the intermediate portion of the outer wall is constructed with a swell, or a small curvature outwards. I paced the outside, but have forgotten the measurement. Certainly, it is not more than forty feet square. I tried to gain admittance into the interior, but without success, as the person possessing the key was not to be found. I saw enough, however, to convince me that the walls could not be less than twelve feet in thickness.

The horses had been some time in readiness, and the fresh postilion seemed to be lost in amazement at the cause of our loitering so long at so insignificant a place. The day warmed as we pushed on for the far-famed "proud Versailles." The approach, from Houdan, is perhaps not the most favourable; although we got peeps of the palace, which gave us rather elevated notions of its enormous extent. We drove to the _Hôtel de Bourbon_, an excellent, clean mansion, close to the very façade of the palace, after passing the Hôtel de Ville; and from whence you have an undisturbed view of the broad, wide, direct road to Paris. I bespoke dinner, and prepared to lounge. The palace--of which I purposely declined visiting the interior--reserving Versailles for a future and entire day's gratification--is doubtless an immense fabric--of which the façade just mentioned is composed of brick, and assumes any thing but a grand and imposing air: merely because it wants simplicity and uniformity of design. I observed some charming white stone houses, scattered on each side of this widely extended chaussée--or route royale--and, upon the whole, Versailles appeared to us to be a magnificent and rather interesting spot. Two or three rows of trees, some forty or fifty generations more ancient than those constituting the boulevards at Houdan, formed avenues on each side of this noble road; and all appeared life and animation--savouring of the proximity of the metropolis. Carriages without number--chiefly upon hire, were going and returning; and the gaits and dresses of individuals were of a more studied and of a gayer aspect. At length, we became a little impatient for our dinner, and for the moment of our departure. We hired one of these carriages; which for nine francs, would convey us to the place of our destination. This appeared to me very reasonable; and after being extravagant enough to drink Champagne at dinner, to commemorate our near approach to the metropolis, we set forward between five and six o'clock, resolving to strain our eyes to the utmost, and to be astonished at every thing we saw!--especially as _this_ is considered the most favourable approach to the capital.

The _Ecole Militaire_, to the left, of which Marshal Ney had once the chief command, struck me as a noble establishment. But it was on approaching _Sèvre_ that all the bustle and population, attendant upon the immediate vicinity of a great metropolis, became evident. Single-horsed vehicles--in many of which not fewer than nine persons were pretty closely stowed--three upon a bench, and three benches under the roof--fiacres, barouches, and carriages of every description, among which we discovered a great number from our own country--did not fail to occupy our unremitting attention. _Sèvre_ is a long, rambling, and chiefly single-street town; but picturesquely situated, on a slope, and ornamented to the left by the windings of the Seine. We were downright glad to renew our acquaintance with our old, and long-lost friend, the river Seine; although it appeared to be sadly shorn of its majestic breadth since we had parted with it before the walls of Montmorenci castle, in our route to Havre. The new nine-arch bridge at Sèvre is a sort of Waterloo bridge in miniature. Upon the heights, above it, I learnt that there was a beautiful view of the river in the foreground with Paris in the distance. We passed over the old bridge, and saw _St. Cloud_ to the left: which of course interested us as the late residence of Bonaparte, but which, in truth, has nothing beyond the air of a large respectable country-gentleman's mansion in England. We pushed on, and began to have distinct perceptions of the great city. Of all the desirable places of retreat, whether for its elevated situation, or respectable appearance, or commodious neighbourhood, nothing struck me more forcibly than the village of PASSY, upon a commanding terrace, to the left; some three or four English miles from Paris--and having a noble view both of the river and of the city. It is also considered to be remarkably healthy; and carriages of every description, are constantly passing thither to and from Paris.

The dome of the _Pantheon_, and the gilded one of the _Hôtel des Invalides_, together with the stunted towers of _Notre Dame_, were among the chief objects to the right: while the accompaniment of the Seine, afforded a pleasing foreground to this architectural picture in the distance. But, my friend, I will frankly own to you, that I was disappointed ... upon this first glimpse of the GREAT city. In the first place, the surrounding country is flat; with the exception of _Mount Calvary,_ to the left, which has nothing to do with the metropolitan view from this situation. In the second place, what are the _Pantheon_ and _Notre Dame_ compared with _St. Paul's_ and _Westminster Abbey_?--to say nothing of the vicinity of London, as is connected with the beautifully undulating ground about Camberwell, Sydenham, Norwood, and. Shooter's Hill--and, on the other side of the water, Hampstead, Highgate and Harrow: again, Wimbledon and Richmond!... What lovely vicinities are these compared with that of _Mont Martre_? And if you take river scenery into the account, what is the _Seine_, in the neighbourhood of Paris, compared with the _Thames_ in that of London? If the almost impenetrable smoke and filth from coal-fires were charmed away--shew me, I beseech you, any view of Paris, from this, or from any point of approach, which shall presume to bear the semblance of comparison with that of London, from the descent from _Shooter's Hill_! The most bewitched Frenchified-Englishman, in the perfect possession of his eye sight, will not have the temerity to institute such a comparison. But as you near the barriers, your admiration increases. Having got rid of all background of country--as you approach the capital--the foregoing objections vanish. Here the officers of police affected to search our luggage. They were heartily welcome, and so I told them. This disarmed all suspicion. Accordingly we entered Paris by one of the noblest and one of the most celebrated of its Boulevards--the _Champs Elysées_. As we gained the _Place Louis Quinze_, with the _Thuileries_ in front, with the _Hôtel des Invalides_ (the gilded dome of which latter reflected the strong rays of a setting sun) to the right--we were much struck with this combination of architectural splendour: indisputably much superior to any similar display on the entrance into our own capital.[174] Turning to the left, the _Place Vendome_ and the _Rue de la Paix_, with the extreme height of the houses, and the stone materials of their construction, completed our admiration. But the _Boulevards Italiens_--after passing the pillars of the proposed church of _Ste. Madelaine_, and turning to the right--helped to prolong our extreme gratification, till we reached the spot whence I am addressing you. Doubtless, at first glance, this is a most splendid and enchanting city. A particular detail must be necessarily reserved, for the next despatch. I shall take all possible pains to make you acquainted with the treasures of PAST TIMES--in the shape of Manuscripts and printed Books. THE ROYAL LIBRARY has as much astonished me, as the CURATORS of it have charmed me by their extreme kindness and civility.[175]

[174] [The above was written in 1818-19. Now, what would be said by a
foreigner, of his first drive from Westminster Bridge, through Regent
Street to the stupendous Pantheon facing the termination of Portland
Place?]

[175] At this point, the labours of Mons. LICQUET, as my translator, cease;
and I will let him take leave of his task of translation in his own
words. "Ici se termine la tache qui m'a été confiée. Après avoir
réfuté franchement tout ce qui m'a semblé digne de lêtre, je crois
devoir déclarer, en finissant, que mes observations n'ont jamais eu
_la personne_ pour objet. Je reste persuadé, d'ailleurs, que le coeur
de M.D. est tout-à-fait innocent des écarts de son esprit. Si l'on
peut le condamner pour le fait, il faudra toujours l'absoudre pour
l'intention...." The _concluding_-sentence need not be copied: it is
bad taste to re-echo the notices of one's own good qualities.

My Norman translator at least takes leave of me with the grace of a
gentleman: although his thrusts have been occasionally direct and
severely intended. The foil which he has used has not always had the
button covered. The candid reader will, however, judge how these
thrusts have been parried; and if the "hits" on the part of my
adversary, have been sometimes "palpable," those of the original
author will not (it is presumed) be deemed feeble or unimpressive.
After all, the sum total of "Errata" scarcely includes THREE of
_substantial moment_: and wishing Mons Licquet "a very good day," I
desire nothing better than to renew our critical coqueting on the
floor of that Library of which he is the "Bibliothècaire en Chef."

END OF VOL. I.

London: Printed by W. Nicol, Cleveland-row, St. James's.

SUPPLEMENT TO VOL. I.

OLD POEM ON THE SIEGE OF ROUEN.

The city of Rouen makes too considerable a figure in the foregoing pages, and its history, as connected with our own country in the earlier part of the fifteenth century, is too interesting, to require any thing in the shape of apology for the matter which the Reader is about to peruse. This "matter" is necessarily incidental to the _present_ edition of the "Tour;" as it is only recently made public. An "_Old English Poem_" on our Henry the Fifth's "_Siege of Rouen_" is a theme likely to excite the attention of the literary Antiquary on _either_ side of the Channel.

The late erudite, and ever to be lamented Rev. J.J. Conybeare, successively Professor of the Saxon language, and of English Poetry in the University of Oxford, discovered, in the exhaustless treasures of the Bodleian Library, a portion of the Old English Poem in question: but it was a portion only. In the 21st. vol. of the Archæologia, Mr. Conybeare gave an account of this fortunate discovery, and subjoined the poetical fragment. Mr. Frederick Madden, one of the Librarians attached to the MS. department in the British Museum, was perhaps yet more fortunate in the discovery of the portion which was lost: and in the 22d. vol. of the _Archæologia_, just published, (pp. 350-398), he has annexed an abstract of the remaining fragment, with copious and learned notes. This fragment had found its way, in a prose attire, into the well-known English MS. Chronicle, called the BRUTE:--usually (but most absurdly) attributed to Caxton. It is not however to be found in _all_ the copies of this Chronicle. On the contrary, Mr. Madden, after an examination of several copies of this MS. has found the poem only in four of them: namely, in two among the Harleian MSS. (Nos. 753; 2256--from which _his_ transcript and collation have been made) in one belonging to Mr. Coke of Holkham, and in a fourth belonging to the _Cotton_ Collection:--Galba E. viii. This latter MS. has a very close correspondence with the _second_ Harl. MS. but is often faulty from errors of the Scribe, See _Gentleman's Magazine, May_, 1829.

So much for the history of the discovery of this precious old English Poem--which is allowed to be a contemporaneous production of the time of the Siege--namely, A.D. 1418. A word as to its intrinsic worth--from the testimony of the Critic most competent to appreciate it. "It will be admitted, I believe, (says Mr. Madden) by all who will take the trouble to compare the various contemporary narratives of the Siege of Rouen, that in point of simplicity, clearness, and minuteness of detail, there is NO existing document which can COMPARE with the Poem before us. Its authenticity is sufficiently established, from the fact of the Author's having been an EYEWITNESS of the whole. If we review the names of those Historians who lived at the same period, we shall have abundant reason to rejoice at so valuable an accession to our present stock of information on the subject." _Archæologia_, vol. xxii. p. 353. The reader shall be no longer detained from a specimen or two of the poem itself, which should seem fully to justify the eulogy of the Critic.

"On the day after the return of the twelve delegates sent by the City of Rouen to treat with Henry, the Poet proceeds to inform us, that the King caused two tents to be pitched, one for the English Commissioners, and the other for the French. On the English side were appointed the Earl of Warwick, the Earl of Salisbury, the Lord Fitzhugh, and Sir Walter Hungerford, and on the French side, twelve discreet persons were chosen to meet them. Then says the writer,

'It was a sight of solempnity,
For to behold both party;
To see the rich in their array,
And on the walls the people that lay,
And on our people that were without,
How thick that they walked about;
And the heraudis seemly to seene,
How that they went ay between;
The king's heraudis and pursuivants,
In coats of arms _amyantis_.
The English a beast, the French a flower,
Of Portyngale both castle and tower,
And other coats of diversity,
As lords bearen in their degree.'

"As a striking contrast to this display of pomp and splendour is described the deplorable condition of those unfortunate inhabitants who lay starving in the ditches without the walls of the City, deprived both of food and clothing. The affecting and simple relation of our Poet, who was an eye-witness, is written with that display of feeling such a scene must naturally have excited, and affords perhaps one of the most favourable passages in the Poem to compare with the studied narratives of Elmham or Livius. In the first instance we behold misery literally in rags, and hiding herself in silence and obscurity, whilst in the other she is ostentatiously paraded before our eyes:

'There men might see a great pity,
A child of two year or three
Go about, and bid his bread,
For Father and mother both lay dead,
And under them the water stood,
And yet they lay crying after food.
Some _storven_ to the death,
And some stopped both eyen and breath,
And some crooked in the knees,
And as lean as any trees,
And women holding in their arm
A dead child, and nothing warm,
And children sucking on the pap
Within a dead woman's lap.'

On Friday the 20th of January, King Henry V. made his public entry into Rouen. His personal appearance is thus described:

'He rode upon a brown steed,
Of black damask was his weed,
A _Peytrelle_ of gold full bright
About his neck hung down right,
And a pendant behind him did honge
Unto the earth, it was so long.
And they that never before him did see,
They knew by the cheer which was he.'

"With the accustomed, but mistaken, piety for which Henry was ever distinguished, he first proceeded to the monastery, where he alighted from his charger, and was met by the chaplains of his household, who walked before him, chanting _Quis est magnus Dominus?_ After the celebration of mass, the king repaired to the Castle, where he took up his abode. By this termination of a siege, which, for its duration and the horrors it produced, is perhaps without a parallel in ancient or modern times, the city was again plentifully supplied with provisions, and recovered the shock so tedious and afflicting a contest had occasioned:

'And thus our gracious liege
Made an end of his siege;
And all that have heard this reading,
To his bliss Christ you bring,
That for us died upon a tree,
Amen say we all, _pur charite!_'

The Duke of Exeter is appointed Governor of the City, and ordered by Henry to take possession of it the same night. The Duke mounts his horse, and rides strait to the Port de Bevesyne or Beauvais, attended by a retinue, to carry the commands of his sovereign into execution. His Entré, and the truly miserable condition of the besieged, together with the imposing appearance of Henry, shall now be described in the language of the poet.

Thanne the duke of Excestre withoute bode
Toke his hors and forth he rode,
To bevesyne[E] that porte so stronge,
That he hadde ley bifore so longe,
To that gate sone he kam,[F]
And with hym many a worthy[G] manne.
There was neying of many a stede,
And schynyng of many a gay wede,
There was many a getoun[H] gay,
With mychille[I] and grete aray.
And whanne the gate was openyd there,
And thay weren[J] redy into fare,
Trumpis[K] blewgh her bemys[L] of bras,
Pipis and clarionys forsothe ther was,
And as thay entrid thay gaf a schowte
With her[M] voyce that was fulle stowte,
'Seint George! seint George!' thay criden[N] on height,
And seide, 'welcome oure kynges righte.'
The Frensshe pepulle of that Cite
Were gederid by thousandes, hem to see.
Thay criden[N] alle welcome in fere,
'In siche tyme mote ye entre here,
Plesyng to God that it may be,
And to vs pees and vnyte.'
And of that pepulle, to telle the trewthe,
It was a sighte of fulle grete ruthe.
Mykelle of that folke therynne
Thay weren[O] but verrey bonys and skynne.
With eyen holowgh and[P] nose scharpe,
Vnnethe thay myght brethe or carpe,
For her colowris was[Q] wan as lede,
Not like to lyue but sone ben dede.
Disfigurid pateronys[R] and quaynte,
And as[S] a dede kyng thay weren paynte.
There men myght see an[T] exampleyre,
How fode makith the pepulle faire.[U]
In euery strete summe lay dede,
And hundriddis krying aftir brede.
And aftir long many a day,
Thay deyde as[V] faste as[W] they myght be lad away.
Into[X] that way God hem wisse,
That thay may come to his blisse! amen.
Now[Y] wille y more spelle,
And of the duke of exestre to[Z] telle.
To that Castelle firste he rode,
And sythen[AA] the Cite alle abrode;
Lengthe and brede he it mette,
And rich baneris he[AB] vp sette.
Vpon the porte seint Hillare
A Baner of the Trynyte.
And at[AC] the port Kaux he sette evene
A baner of the quene of heven.
And at[AD] port martvile he vppyght Of seint George a baner bryght.
He sette vpon the Castelle to[AE] stonde
The armys of Fr[a]unce and Englond.
And on the Friday in the mornynge
Into that Cite come oure kynge.
And alle the Bisshoppis in her aray,
And vij. abbottis with Crucchis[AF] gay;
xlij.[AG] crossis ther were of Religioune[AH],
And seculere, and alle thay went a precessioun,
Agens that prince withoute the toune,
And euery Cros as thay stode
He blessid hem with milde mode,
And holy water with her hande
Thay gaf the prince of oure lande.
And at[AI] the porte Kaux so wide
He in passid withoute[AJ] pride;
Withoute pipe or bemys blaste,
Our kyng worthyly he in paste.
And as a conquerour in his righte
Thankyng[AK] euer god almyghte;
And alle the pepulle in that Citie
'Wilcome our[AL] lorde,' thay seide, 'so fre!
Wilcome into[AM] thyne owne righte,
As it is the[AN] wille of[AO] god almyght.'
With that thay kryde alle _'nowelle!_'
Os[AP] heighe as thay myght yelle.
He rode vpon a browne stede,
Of blak damaske was his wede.
A peytrelle[AQ] of golde fulle bryght
Aboute his necke hynge[AR] doun right,
And a pendaunte behynd him dide[AS] honge
Vnto the erthe, it was so longe,
And thay that neuer before hym dide[AT] see,
Thay knew by chere[u] wiche was he.
To the mynster dide he fare,
And of his horse he lighte there.
His chapelle[AU] mette hym at[AV] the dore there,
And wente bifore[AW] hym alle in fere,
And songe a response[AX] fulle glorivs,
_Quis est magnus dominus_.
Messe he hirde and offrid thoo,
And thanne to the Castelle dide he goo.
That is a place of rialte,
And a paleis of grete beaute.
There he hym[AY] loggid in the Toune,
With rialle and grete renoune.
And the[AZ] cite dide faste encrece
Of brede and wyne, fisshe, and fflesshe.[BA]
And thus oure gracious liege
Made an ende of his seege.
And alle that[BB] haue hirde this redynge[BC]
To his[BD] blisse criste you brynge,
That for vs deide vpon[BE] a tre,
Amen sey[BF] we alle, pur cherite!

_There was many a getoun gay_.] The following particulars relative to the _getoun_ appear in MS. Harl. 838. "Euery baronet euery estat aboue hym shal have hys baner displeyd in y'e field yf he be chyef capteyn, euery knyght his penoun, euery squier or gentleman hys _getoun_ or standard." "Item, y'e meyst lawfully fle fro y'e standard and _getoun_, but not fro y'e baner ne penon.". "Nota, a stremer shal stand in a top of a schyp or in y'e fore-castel: a stremer shal be slyt and so shal a standard as welle as a _getoun_: a _getoun_ shal berr y'e length of ij yardes, a standard of iii or 4 yardes, and a stremer of xii. xx. xl. or lx. yardes longe."

This account is confirmed by MS. Harl. 2258, and Lansd. 225. f. 431. as quoted by Mr. Nicholas, in the Retrosp. Rev. vol. i. N.S. The former of these MSS. states: Euery standard and _Guydhome_ [whence the etymology of the word is obvious] to have in the chief the crosse of St. George, to be slitte at the ende, and to conteyne the creste or supporter, with the posey, worde, and devise of the owner." It adds, that "a guydhome must be two yardes and a halfe, or three yardes longe." This rule may sometimes have been neglected, at least by artists, for in a bill of expences for the Earl of Warwick, dated July 1437, and printed by Dugdale, (Warw. p. 327.) we find the following entry; "Item, a _gyton_ for the shippe of viij. yerdis long, poudrid full of raggid staves, for the lymnyng and workmanship, ijs." The Grant of a _guydon_ made in 1491 to Hugh Vaughan, is preserved in the College of Arms. It contains his crest placed longitudinally. _Retrospective Review, New Series_, vol. i. p. 511.

[E] _bewesyns_.

[F] _came_.

[G] _worthy_ deest.

[H] A species of banner or streamer. See Note.

[I] _noble_.

[J] _were_.

[K] Trumpeters.

[L] Trumpets.

[M] _that_.

[N] cryed.

[O] _were_.

[P] _with nose_.

[Q] _were_.

[R] _patrons_.--Workmens' models or figures. _Patrone_, forme to
werke by. _Prompt. Parvul_. MS. Harl. 221. There is probably here
an allusion to the waxen or wooden effigies placed on the hearse of
distinguished personages.

[S] _as dede thyng they were peynte_.

[T] _in_.

[U] _to fare_.

[V] as _deest_.

[W] _as cartes led awey_.

[X] _Vnto_.

[Y] In MS. Harl. 753, a break is here made, and a large capital letter
introduced.

[Z] _to_ deest.

[AA] _sithe_.

[AB] _vp he_.

[AC] _atte porte kauxoz_.

[AD] _atte_ porte.

[AE] _that stounde_.

[AF] Crosses.

[AG] xliiij.

[AH] _religiouns_.

[AI] _atte porte hauxoz_.

[AJ] The remainder, of this, and the two following lines are omitted.

[AK] _Thanked_.

[AL] _they seyde our lord so free_.

[AM] _vnto_.

[AN] _the_ deest.

[AO] _to_.

[AP] _As_.

[AQ] Poitrell, breast plate.

[AR] _hangyng_.

[AS] _dide_ deest.

[AT] _the_ chere.

[AU] The chaplains of his household. Lat. _capella_.

[AV] _atte_ dore, _there_ deest.

[AW] _afore_.

[AX] _respon._

[AY] _logged hym._

[AZ] _his cite fast encrest_.

[BA] _beste_.

[BB] _that_ deest.

[BC] _tydyng_.

[BD] _his_ deest.

[BE] on.

[BF] _seyde all for charitee_.

BRONZE GILT ANTIQUE STATUE AT LILLEBONNE, p. 127-8.

This Statue, as the above reference will testify, is now in the possession of Mr. Samuel Woodburn, of St. Martin's Lane. When the note relating to it was written, I could, not place my hand upon a Brochure (in my possession) published at Rouen in 1823,[176] containing an archaeological description of this Statue by M. Revet, and a scientific account of its component parts, by M. Houton La Billardière, Professor of Chemistry at Rouen. The former embodied his remarks in two letters addressed to the Prefect of the Lower Seine. A print of the figure in its then extremely mutilated state, is prefixed; but its omission would have been no great drawback to the publication--which, in its details, appears to be ingenious, learned, and satisfactory. The highest praise is given to the Statue, as a work of art of the second century.[177] Its _identity_ seems to be yet a subject of disputation:--but M. Revet considers it as "the representation of some idolatrous divinity." The opinion of its being a representation of Bacchus, or of Apollo, or of a Constellation, he thinks might be regulated by a discovery of some emblem, or attribute, found in the vicinity of the Statue. Two other plates--lithographised--relating to explanations of the pieces of the Statue, close this interesting performance.

[176] "_Description de la, Statue Fruste, en Bronze Doré, trouvée a
Lillebonne &c. Suivie de l'Analyse du Métal, avec le dessein de la
Statue, et les Tracés de quelques particularités relatives à la
Confection de cette Antique." Rouen,_ 1823. pp. 56.

[177] Other details induce me to fix the period of its completion towards
the end of the second century: and after the unheard of difficulties
which the artist had to overcome, one would scarcely be believed if
one said that every thing is executed in a high state of perfection."
p. 34.

BIBLIOGRAPHICAL INDEX.

INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS, AND OF PRINTED BOOKS, DESCRIBED, QUOTED, OR REFERRED TO.

Vol Page _Æneas Sylvius de Duobus Amantibus_, no date, 4to.--in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 315

_Æsopus, Gr_. 4to. Edit. prin.--in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 308

---- _Lat_. 1481, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 141

---- _Ital_. 1485, _Tuppi_, in the same library at Paris, ii 142

---- _Ital_. 1491 and 1492, 4to.--in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 308

---- _Hispan_. 1496, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 142

---- _Germ. Without Date, &c_., in the same library ii 142

---- ---- in the same library, ii 142

_Alain Chartier, paraboles de, Verard_, 1492, folio--UPON VELLUM--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 134

_Albert Durer_; original drawings of, in a Book of Prayers, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 132

_Alcuinus de Trinitate, Monast. Utimpurrha_, 1500, folio--in the Public Library at Augsbourg, iii 101

_Aldine Classics_, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 145

---- ----, in the Library of St. Geneviève, ii 177

---- ----, in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart, iii 41

---- ----, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 146

_Alexandrus Gallus_, vulgo _de Villa Dei Doctrinale V de Spira_, folio--in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 315

_Almanac historique--le Messager Boiteux_--a chap book, extracts from, iii 73

_Anti-Christ--block book_--in the Public Library at Landshut, iii 181

_Ambrosii Hexameron_, 1472, folio--in the Public Library at Augsbourg, iii 99

---- ---- in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _Supplement_, iii 430

_Amours, chasse et départ, Verard_, 1509, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 132

_Anthologia Græca_, 1498, 4to.--UPON VELLUM, in the Library of Ste. Geneviève, at Paris, ii 176

---- ---- 1503, _Aldus_, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 145

_Antonii Archpi Opera Theologica_, 1477, _Koberger_, folio--in the Public Library at Strasbourg, ii 407

_Apocalypse, block book_, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, iii 26

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 331

_Apostles Creed_, in German, _block book_, with fac simile--in the Public Library at Munich, iii 137

_Appianus, Lat. Ratdolt_, 1478, folio--in the library of the Monastery of St. Florian, iii 236

_Apuleius_, 1469, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 128

---- ----, in the Library of the Monastery of Closterneuburg, iii 397

---- ----, imperfect, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 142

---- ----, UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 308

---- ----, 1472, _Jenson_, folio--in the last mentioned library, iii 308

_Aquinas, T., Sec. Secundæ, Schoeffher_, 1467, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 316

----, _Opus Quartiscript. Schoeffher_. 1469, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the same Library, iii 316

----, _In Evang. Matt, et Marc_. 1470, _S. and Pannartz_, folio--in the same library, iii 316

---- _de virtut. et vitiis. Mentelin_--in the Public Library at Munich, iii 141

_Arbre des Batailles, Verard_, 1493, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 132

_Aretinus de Bella Gothico_, 1470, folio--in the Public Library at Caen, i 208

_Aristotelis Opera, Gr. Aldus_, 1495, 6 vols. Two copies UPON VELLUM (the first volume in each copy wanting) in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 136

---- _Ethica Nichomachea. Gr. (Aldus)--_ remarkably splendid copy of, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 138

_Ars Memorandi_, &c.--_block book_: five copies of, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 135

---- ---- in the Public Library at Landshut, iii 181

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 332

---- -----in the Library of Göttwic Monastery, iii 428

_Ars Moriendi, Germanicé--4to_.-- in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, iii 26

---- _Lat. block book_--two editions, in the Public Library at Munich, iii 136

_Art de bien Mourir, Verard_, no date, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 133

_Art and Crafte to know well to dye, Caxton_, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 124

ARTUS LE ROY; MS. xiith century,--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 94

Another MS. of the same Romance, in the same Library, ii 94

_Artaxani Summa_, (1469) folio--in the Public Library at Augsbourg, iii 232

_Augustinus Sts. De Civitate Dei_, 1467, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 113

---- ---- in the Library of Ste. Geneviève at Paris, ii 173

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 301

---- ---- in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery, iii 397

---- ---- _Sweynheym and Pannartz_, 1470, folio, in the Public Library at Vire, i 297

_Augustinus Sts. De Civitate Dei_, 1467, folio, UPON VELLUM, late in the Library of Chremsminster Monastery, iii 221

---- ---- in the Public Library at Landshut, iii 181

---- ---- _Schoeffher_, 1473; folio--in the Library of the Monastery of Chremsminster, iii 221

---- ---- _Jenson_, 1475, folio--UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 301

---- _Confessionum Libri XIII_. 1475. 4to.--in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 301

---- ---- _de singularitate Clericorum_, 1467, 4to. in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart, iii 40

AUGUSTINI STI. IN PSALMOS, MS. xvth century--formerly in the library of Corvinus, King of Hungary, and now in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, iii 36

---- ---- _Yppon. de Cons. Evang_. 1473, folio--in the Public Library at Augsbourg, iii 101

_Aulus Gellius_, 1469, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 127

---- ---- UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 308

Aurbach's Meditations upon the Life of Christ, 1468, Printed by Gunther Zeiner. _Pub. Lib. Augsbourg_, iii 100

_Ausonius_, 1472, folio--in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 128

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 309

---- ---- _Aldus_, 1517, 8vo. Grolier's copy, on large paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 148

_Aymon, les quatre filz_, 1583, 4to.--in the Library of the Arsenal, at Paris, ii 163

B.

BALLADS;
_Bon Jour, Bon Soir_: i 132
--_Toujours_, 389
various, from the _Vaudevires of Olivier Basselin_, 292
-293
-294
_Vive Le Roi, Vive L'Amour_, i 310
_en arborant le drapeau blanc, at Falaise_, i 324
_le Baiser d'Adieu_, i 343
_L'Image de la Vie_, i 344

_Bartholi Lectura de Spira_, 1471. Folio. In the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 316

_Bartsch, I. Adam de--Catalogue des Estampes, par, &c_. 1818. 8vo. iii 393

_Bella (La) Mano_, 1474, 4to.--in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 321

_Bellovacensis Vinc. Spec. Hist_. 1473, folio--in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 317

_Berlinghieri, Geografia_, folio--in the Imperial Library (Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna, iii 321

_Berinus et Aygres de Lamant, Bonfons_, no date, in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, ii 165

_Bessarionis Epistolæ_, (1469) folio--in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, iii 24

BIBLIA LATINA, MS. ixth century, of Charles the Bald--in the Royal Library at Paris, with a copper-plate engraving of that Monarch's portrait, ii 65

------ ------ XIIth century, in the same library, ii 67

------ ------ XVth century, of the _Emperor Wenceslaus_--in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 290

BIBLIA HIST. PARAPHRASTICA, MS. XVth century, ii 69

_Biblia Polyglotta Complut_. 1516, &c. in the Public Library at Coutances, i 270

------ ------ copy belonging to Diane de Poictiers, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 149

------ ------ 1521, in the Public Library at Landshut, iii 181

------ ------ copy of Demetrius Chalcondylas, afterwards that of Eckius, in the Public Library at Landshut, iii 181

------ ------ _Walton_; royal copy, in the Public Library at Caen, i 211

------ ------ with the original dedication, in the Public Library at Stuttgart, iii 22

------ ------ in the Library of the Monastery of St. Florian, in Austria, iii 237

_Biblia Polyglotta, Le Jay_: in the Library of the Lycée at Bayeux i 245

------ _Hebraica, edit. Soncini_, 1488, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 303

_Biblia Hebraica edit. Houbigant_, 1753, in a Private Collection near Bayeux, i 235

---- ---- _Hahn_, 1806, in the Library of the Monastery of Closterneuburg, iii 396

---- _Græca, Aldus_, 1518, folio--Francis Ist's copy, upon thick paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 148

---- ---- _Aldus_, upon thick paper, in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, ii 157

---- ---- the usual copy, in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart, iii 39

_Biblia Latina_, (_edit. Maz. 1455_) folio, 2 vols., two copies of, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 106

---- ---- a copy in the Mazarine Library at Paris, ii 190

---- ---- a copy in the Public Library at Munich, iii 139

---- ---- a copy in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 302

---- ---- _Pfister_, (1461) folio, 3 vols. in the Royal Library at Paris, ii 108

---- two copies, 1592, 1603, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, iii 39

---- ---- in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii 302

---- _Fust und Schoeffher_, 1462: folio--three copies, (two UPON VELLUM, and a third on paper) in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, ii 154

---- ---- VELLUM COPY, in the Library of Ste. Geneviève, ii 173

---- VELLUM COPY, in the Mazarine Library at Paris, ii 190