Chapter II: Part 2

This room contains the desirable articles and fixtures for the
modern bathroom in a very satisfactory arrangement. There is the
latest thing in nickel plumbing and modern equipment, but at the
same time there is an attractiveness that is so lacking in the cold,
hospital type of room
]

The small hexagonal floor tiles permit sections to be taken up with
little difficulty and replaced at small expense. Wall tile, however,
should be made of the larger rectangular units with a cornice at the
top and a rounded surbase that obviates a sharp angle at the
junction with the floor
]

The lavatory is an important fixture that is made in a great many varieties. The old-fashioned bowl is obsolete--the oval has taken its place, though probably the best is the kidney-shaped bowl, as it permits a free and natural movement of the arms in raising water to lave the face. The bowl should be at least 14 × 17 inches, in a slab 22 × 32, with a space surrounding the bowl countersunk a little to form a border that tends to confine the splashed water. All the fixtures manufactured by responsible concerns are equipped with nickel-plated faucets, wastes, traps, and supplies that are very satisfactory; but quite often the plumber who installs the work buys the fixtures without the selected trimmings and substitutes a cheaper pattern. Some tubs and lavatories are sold in "A" and "B" qualities, and it will be to your advantage to select the fixtures with your architect, who knows the grades and fittings.

All the wood that is in these bathrooms is heavily enameled in
white. Both rooms show a good use of colored tile worked in
attractive designs. The room on the left has a mosaic pattern in
several shades as a decoration, while in the right hand room there
is a bright border and vertical strips making panels. The tiles
between them are laid in herring-bone fashion. Both tubs are without
supports and rest flat on the floor
]

This European treatment is particularly effective for the owner's
bath, which opens into his bedroom. The glass doors provide all the
lighting necessary and are very decorative with their curved
segments
]

A particularly pleasing treatment is the bath opening from the owner's chamber, and separated from it by glass partition. This arrangement is good where outside light cannot be afforded or obtained, and a curtain effectively screens it.

A simple bathroom where waterproof enameled paint was used in
several coats instead of a tiled wainscot, and above this an
attractive waterproof paper that suggests tiling. Such an
arrangement is a possibility where tiles may not be purchased
]

Bath-room accessories should be arranged with care and consist of the following devices: Plate glass shelves supported on nickel-plated brackets are the best; towel-racks; toothbrush holders; clothes-brush hangers; clothes hooks; soap dishes; and soiled towel baskets. Hardware is usually of nickel-plated tubing screwed into the tile. The accompanying photographs and plans will illustrate the subject further and are self-explanatory.

A. RAYMOND ELLIS

The Proper Treatment for the Nursery

Furnishings for the modern child's room, like everything else that belongs to that important personage, are as complete in the smallest detail as skill and ingenuity can make them, and every feature of a well-appointed bedroom may be duplicated in miniature for the youngsters.

The wall-papers and draperies especially designed for nurseries and children's rooms are in a way more distinctively juvenile than the actual pieces of furniture, and are a most important consideration in fitting out such apartments. If one does not care to go to the expense of furnishing a nursery completely, paper and curtains that will leave no doubt as to the identity of the room may be had at small cost, and from this simple touch the scheme of decorations and the furniture, to say nothing of the cost, may be indefinitely extended.

Strictly hygienic parents who scout the idea of wall-paper as being unhealthy and will have nothing but painted walls in a bedroom are confronted by a bare expanse that may be sanitary, but is neither attractive nor interesting for the child. With walls treated in this way a decorative frieze may be used with good effect. The friezes, which come in panels varying in depth from fourteen to nineteen and one-half inches, are printed in gay colors on backgrounds of blue-gray, ivory-white, drab, and other neutral tones that can be matched exactly in the color of the walls. The designs include processions of Noah's ark inhabitants, farmyard animals, chickens and ducks, Normandy peasants going to market, toy villages with stiff little soldiers and prim-looking trees, hunting scenes, and a row of Dutch kiddies indulging in a mad race across the paper.

If wall-paper is used it also matches the background of the frieze, the paper being either in a solid color or with a figure so inconspicuous that it gives the impression of a single tone.

One of the new papers for children's rooms is a reproduction of the quaint Kate Greenaway figures that are quite as fascinating to little people in these days as they were years ago. The background is a pale yellow and the figures are printed in rather delicate colors, each group representing one of the calendar months. The effect is particularly dainty and the designs are diverting for the children without becoming tiresome from too great contrast in color. Another paper that shows groups quite as charming is printed from designs by Boutet de Monvel, the famous French illustrator of child life.

A new idea, and one that is proving popular, is a decided departure from the conventional wall-paper, with its figures at regularly repeated intervals. This consists in first putting on the walls a paper of solid color to be used as a background for single figures or groups that are cut from friezes and pasted on to suit one's individual taste. The figures, of course, must be quite large, in order to be effective, and in some favorite groups cut from a frieze showing little Dutch girls and yellow chicks the latter are even larger than life. For nurseries, when the children are very small, the figures are often arranged in a frieze just above the foot-board, so that they come on a line with the child's eye, and are therefore vastly more entertaining than when placed at the infinite distance of the top of the wall.

Blue and white seems to be the favorite combination of colors for nursery draperies, and among the all-over patterns are a lot of roly-poly children picking gigantic daisies on a pale blue ground, and also a Delft design on a white ground covered with black cross lines that are far enough apart to give a tiled effect. A number of other colors and patterns may be had as well as the gay printed borders that come two strips to a width of the material. When figured wallpaper is used, draperies of solid color with the printed border are rather more satisfactory, as one set of children or animals tumbling over the walls, and another set chasing across the draperies, create a bewildering impression that is anything but restful and quieting for the small occupant. The borders are particularly attractive for curtains made of plain scrim or some soft white material, and are stitched on in strips or cut out and put on in silhouette.

The playroom in this house was to be made use of by the grown folks
occasionally for their handicraft work. Special attention was paid
to built-in closets convenient for toys and tools
]

Floor coverings especially suitable for children's rooms are to be found in the more or less recently revived rag carpet rugs, either plain or with figured borders. Almost any of these rugs with their decorative strips showing queerly constructed landscapes are suitable, but most appropriate is one that has a solemn procession of geese across either end, or another that is ornamented with a family of black and white bunnies lined up against a red brick wall. They come in various sizes, from the small hearthrug up to the one that is large enough for the center of an average size room.

A new rug for nurseries that is rather more practical than pretty is woven in the same way as the rag rugs, but instead of cotton materials, strips of oilcloth are used, rolled so that the glossy side is uppermost. The idea was first employed in making small rugs for bathrooms, as they are waterproof and easy to keep clean, but they are quite as serviceable and sanitary for children's rooms, and are cleaned by wiping off with a damp cloth. They are made in different sizes, and in a mixed design, like the ordinary rag rug, or with white centers and borders of solid color.

In the way of furniture, chairs and beds are to be had in a much greater variety than the other pieces, and the miniature Morris chair is no doubt the most attractive piece of furniture that is made for the little folks. It comes in almost as many different styles and prices as the grown-up variety, and may be had in light or dark wood, with cushions of velour or leather or figured cotton material, and is a perfect reproduction of the large chair. Little sets consisting of table and two chairs, one straight, the other with arms, are decorated with juvenile figures in color, and may be had for prices that are quite reasonable. They are especially useful when no attempt can be made at arranging a regulation nursery. One of the most serviceable of these sets is of dark wood with leather seat chairs and a table of good size, the top of which is hinged and may be raised disclosing a receptacle for toys or books.

Small willow and wicker tables and chairs are made in attractive shapes, many of them copies of the larger pieces, and are used either in the natural color or stained to harmonize with the color scheme of the room. Less substantial than the pieces made of solid wood, they are rather more practical for older children than for small ones who are no respecters of furniture, and, while designed for use all the year round, they are particularly suitable for summer rooms or to be carried outdoors.

In spite of the fact that the little white bed is always associated with the child's room in story and song, to say nothing of the popular imagination, there are various kinds of brass and wooden beds made in small sizes that are thoroughly in keeping with one's idea of a typical nursery. The white enamel beds, which may be had as plain or as elaborate as one desires, are always dainty, and have the advantage of harmonizing perfectly with furniture and hangings of almost every description. Brass beds have the same characteristic, but they are much more expensive than those of iron, and seem to require rather more elaborate surroundings. The newest brass beds for children are quite low, only about half as high as the ordinary bed, which is a distinct advantage, as it is much easier for the child to climb into, and less dangerous in case he falls out.

The sense of possession that the child has in its own room produces
much satisfaction. Substantial furniture may be purchased in small
sizes and a variety of wall treatments are suggested with
interesting friezes
]

A recently designed wooden bed of attractive appearance shows severely plain lines in the head and foot boards, and in the sides long narrow panels are cut out, through which the covering of the box spring is seen. This bed is made only to order, and is intended for elaborately decorated rooms in which a definite color scheme is carried out. It may be had in any desired width and stained any color to match the other furniture, while the box spring and little pillow and mattress are covered with the same material as the draperies of the room.

Japanese prints are being received with increasing favor and
thousands of beautiful designs are particularly appropriate for the
children's room. The subjects are chiefly natural history figures
and they serve as an inspiration to have stories woven about them
]

Furniture of a special size for children's rooms is made in a design that is substantial and handsome, by the manufacturer of a well-known and widely used type. There is a wardrobe just five feet high, with compartments for hats, clothing, and shoes; a bureau twenty-nine inches high, with a twenty-inch mirror on it; a bed with high sides, the simple decorations of which match those of the bureau; rocking chairs and straight chairs with leather seats, a settle, and tables of different sizes and shapes. Nothing could be more attractive or complete than a room furnished in this way for a child of six or seven years who has outgrown the daintier surroundings of the nursery. It has all of the dignity of a well-appointed grown-up room, but with everything in proportion to the size of its owner.

Even washstand sets, suitable as to shape and decoration, may be had for the child's room in which no detail is to be omitted. They are little if any smaller than the usual sets, but the decorations are in keeping with those of the other appointments, and the pitchers are designed with a view to their being handled easily by small hands. They are not unlike milk jugs in shape, with a substantial handle over the top and another at the back, so that there is small chance of their slipping while in transit, and the mouth is a definitely formed one that will not fail to pour in the direction intended.

For a comparatively small amount a room may be fitted up with enough distinctive juvenile furnishings to impart individuality and to give the child a sense of possession that it will never have in grown-up surroundings. Even though circumstances are such that it has not had an elaborate nursery, as soon as a child is old enough to have a room of its own there is no reason why the furnishings should not be in keeping, and with the expenditure of a little money a dainty and attractive room may be arranged. High-priced beds and other pieces of furniture are by no means necessary, and, as is often the case, the most reasonably furnished room may be the most satisfactory if a little ingenuity and good taste are brought into service.

There are various ways that Japanese prints may be used in the
child's room. This and the opposite illustration show prints put on
the wall and held by a molding at top and bottom. This also may
contain a glass to protect each picture
]

There are decorations such as this that have an educational value
and that take the place of toys. These little figures on the left
are really companions, while the plaster plaque illustrates
Stevenson's Verses
]

These bas-reliefs make interesting decorations and at the same time
serve as object lessons in illustrating good poetry
]

Thirty to thirty-two dollars can be made to cover the cost of wall-paper, curtains, bed and mattress, a rug and a bureau, all in sizes and designs suitable for children. The wall-papers in juvenile patterns are not expensive, and the cost of papering a room of average size would be about five dollars. A little white iron bed may be had for as low as five dollars, with seven dollars additional for the mattress, and a rug 3 × 6 feet in size with a decorative border is $3.50. A bureau of small size, such as comes in an inexpensive grade of the so-called antique oak, costs about $8.00. For the very reason that the furnishings of the room are only temporary, and soon to be outgrown and discarded, it is quite satisfactory to buy a cheap grade of furniture whenever possible, if price is a consideration. A small bureau is less expensive than one made especially in a child's size, and is equally practical if not so substantially made. Such a bureau can be done over in white enamel to match the bed, or in any dark color that may be preferred in place of the shiny oak finish.

For curtains that hang straight from the top of the window to the lower edge of the sash, scrim at twenty-five cents a yard would cost two dollars. Allowing four yards for each of two windows, and enough printed cretonne to make a decorative border, it would cost a dollar and a half additional.

These figures are of the very lowest for which a child's room can be fitted up, but even with everything of the most inexpensive grade it will give more real pleasure than one on which a much greater amount has been spent if the room is nondescript in its furnishings and fails to impress the child with a sense of ownership.

SARAH LEYBURN COE

Characteristic Staircase Types and Hall Treatments

In the right place half-timber work on plaster has many
possibilities for hall decoration
]

Japanese grass cloth in golden color is an excellent combination for
chestnut stained light brown. Wood strips are used instead of
paneling
]

In certain old Colonial halls the entrance is fashioned in a
semicircular recess up which the stairs curve in a spiral. The
effect is exceedingly beautiful but requires much space
]

The front door in this house opens directly into the living-room,
into which stairs come down at one side. The wood has natural
treatment and part of the banister forms the wainscot of the room
]

Some of the best Colonial detail is to be found in newel posts where
careful craftsmen worked a variety of spirals
]

One method of securing pleasing decorative effects was the use of
balusters in three different designs
]

In the old farmhouses for the sake of warmth the main stairway was
made with the smallest possible well and often closed with a door at
the main hall
]

This is a modern example by Wilson Eyre of the stair well inclosed
for the greater part of its length. Such arrangement is only
possible under certain lighting conditions
]

The stairs that rise from this living-room are designed to take up
as little room as possible. In this they are very successful and
little of the banister rail and stair woodwork can be seen
]

Where there is a large room made dignified by architectural
decoration the twin stairways curving either side of a main flight
are decidedly impressive; but one should not plan to make use of
this effect in any but a pretentious house
]

The hall paper should not be a decided contrast to rooms opening
onto it. Tapestry paper may often be found successful in this
situation
]

Another stairway that divides on the way to the upper flight, but a
treatment particularly fit for houses in English style of decoration
]

This view shows to good advantage the value of an archway between
living-room and hall. Woodwork, simply carved, frames in
delightfully the stairway which is so appropriately treated with a
forest frieze. Curtains would be objectionable here
]

This hall is of generous width, and the stairs rise straight with
but one landing lighted by a large window. A window is almost a
necessity in the hall as it permits a free circulation of air
throughout the house
]

A use of the Colonial flat arch which separates this stairway from
the living-room and makes a small room of it
]

Simplicity characterizes this Colonial stairway that is very similar
to the one at the top of page 114. There is, however, a baseboard
treatment which, like the banister rail, is crowned with mahogany
]

In the recess made by the vestibule the stairway is economically
placed. The hall serves the double purpose of entrance and reception
room
]

Planning the Kitchen

There is a growing and altogether proper tendency to treat the kitchen as an integral part of the house, which was almost entirely absent in English and American houses of early times; in fact, until within the last twenty-five years very little thought was attached to it. A century ago it was regarded advisable to have the kitchen occupy a separate building somewhat removed from the main building or located at a great distance from the dining or living rooms, ofttimes the whole length of the house. The principal reason for this was the primitive methods used in cooking and preparing foods which were very objectionable at close range. Odors, noises and unsanitary appliances made the kitchen a place to be abhorred and to be kept as far away as possible. The present-day intelligent methods of dealing with the kitchen, particularly in America, have effected a complete transformation in this old idea. Our modern successful architect of the home attaches great importance to the planning of the kitchen, with its adjoining pantries, closets, storage rooms, etc.; and rightfully he should, as it goes more towards making for the convenience, help and comfort of the up-to-date household than possibly any other feature of the home.

The modern English kitchen with its relation to the dining-room is interesting for comparison with those here in America, chiefly because the early English settlers constitute the original source from which we obtain our start in house-building. The English kitchen's adjuncts practically comprise separate departments, such as the scullery, larder, wood, ashes, knives and boots, fuel, etc. This condition naturally requires the employment of considerable help even in the smaller homes. On the other hand, the compactness so noticeable in American homes--requiring perhaps one-half the space, thus reducing the necessary help to a minimum and obtaining the maximum of convenience--has brought our kitchen to a standard, nearly, if not entirely, approaching the ideal. The American architect has based his idea for this compactness upon the same reasoning as is exercised in fitting up a convenient workshop, for truly a kitchen is the workshop of the house. Again, the peculiar custom of medieval times in placing the kitchen a considerable distance from the dining-room still survives in the English homes, while in American homes a marked difference has long prevailed. The kitchen here is usually placed as near as possible to the dining-room, only separated, if at all, by a china-closet, pantry, or butler's room.

The model kitchen has developed considerably from the
higgledy-piggledy arrangement of Colonial times. Supplies are
limited to the most necessary articles, and these stored away in a
handy location
]

Such a kitchen _de luxe_ is expensive, but not extravagant. The
built-in range, tiled wall and floor, together with the open
plumbing, give the highest degree of sanitation
]

Convenience, cleanliness and ventilation are three essentials that must be paramount in arranging the up-to-date kitchen and its accessories.

While there may be differences as to minor details, the principal features to be obtained in establishing a modern kitchen may be found in the various suggestions herein contained:

1st. The kitchen should be roomy but not excessively large. This applies to any size of house, as too large a kitchen is maintained at the expense of convenience and labor. An ideal size for a kitchen in a house measuring 25 × 50 (containing living-room, reception room, dining-room and pantry on first floor) would be 12 × 15 feet.

2nd. The general construction of the interior is of the utmost importance. The floor may be of hard Georgia pine, oiled, or covered with linoleum or oilcloth. As a covering, linoleum of a good inlaid pattern, while more expensive than oilcloth, proves the best and most economical in length of service. In a house where comfort is demanded regardless of cost, an interlocking rubber tiling is suggested. This flooring absolutely avoids noises and slipping and is comfortable to the feet, as well as being of an exceptional durability. Other floors of a well-merited character are unglazed tile, brick, or one of the many patented compositions consisting chiefly of cement, which is also fireproof.

The wainscoting, if adopted for the kitchen, can be of tile, enameled brick, or matched and V-jointed boards, varnished or painted; but in any event should be connected with the floor in a manner to avoid cracks for collecting dust or dirt. This is accomplished (when a wooden wainscot is used) by means of a plain rounded molding which is set in the rightangle formed by the junction of the floor with the wainscot. While seldom seen, because of the expense, a kitchen completely tiled or bricked on walls, floor and ceiling is indeed a thing of beauty and necessarily an ideally sanitary room.

The sink should have a drainboard space and be located where the
light may fall directly upon it. The row of hooks for utensils saves
much walking
]

The doors, window frames, dressers and other necessary woodwork should be plain, made of medium wood and painted some light color or enameled white; or finished in the natural state with a transparent varnish.

The butler's pantry should have an indirect connection between the
kitchen and the dining-room. The two doors here keep out odors,
noise and heat from the dining-room. The refrigerator is in the
cook's pantry and opens out on the porch
]

The walls and ceiling, if not tiled or bricked, should be finished with a hard smooth plaster and painted three or four coats of some light color--light yellow, green, or blue making a very agreeable color to the eye. This manner of treatment permits the walls to be washed and kept free from dust and dirt, which latter is a disagreeable feature in the use of wall papers.

3rd. The proper installation of the various furnishings of the kitchen is worthy of much thought and consideration. Of all these, nothing is of more vital importance nor appeals more strongly to the household than the range. The size of the range is largely governed by the size of the house or the number of persons it is intended to serve. However, it is advisable to have a range not less than three feet square for a seven or eight-room house. It should be of a thoroughly modern style, with a hood over it, either built in or of sheet iron, an excellent provision for drawing away the steam and fumes of cooking. And, by all means, the range should be placed so that direct daylight falls upon it. Most present-day houses also have either gas or electric ranges installed in them and these should be near the coal range so as to confine all cooking to one part of the kitchen; and further, especially in winter when large gatherings are entertained, they furnish a combined service. Some large establishments, in addition to the range, are especially equipped with "warmers."

The modern kitchen may be neat and clean if all of wood, with
V-matched boards varnished or painted. The space under the
drainboard here for a table is a feature worth adopting. The
cupboard over the shelf is also an attractive feature
]

The sink, being so closely allied in its usefulness to the range, should be placed near the latter and under, between or near windows, but never where the person using it would have his back to the light. It may be of galvanized iron, copper, soapstone or enameled porcelain, and provided with an ample draining-board; two being much preferred. If there is a special sink for vegetables required, it should be immediately adjoining the draining-board to insure compactness and convenience as well as economy in plumbing. The draining-board may be of hard wood or of wood covered with copper or zinc. The best are made of enameled ware similar to the sinks. Draining-boards of copper or zinc should be given only a slight slope to prevent the possibility of dishes slipping therefrom.

A feature of this plan is the sliding door connecting the kitchen
and pantry. This may be closed when cooking is in progress and
successfully keeps all odors from finding their way into the
dining-room. Opposite windows provide a cross draft and excellent
ventilation
]

The refrigerator should be built in or placed against an outside wall in order that the ice can be put in easily from without through either a small opening or window. If it can be avoided, the refrigerator should not be placed immediately in the kitchen, but rather in the entry, pantry or enclosed porch.

The kitchen of the small house which sometimes has no communicating pantry should have built therein dressers of such proportions as will accommodate all the necessary dishes, pots, vessels, bins for flour, sugar, etc., cutlery, and other things essential for obtaining the best results under the circumstances. A dresser of commodious size is always a blessing. The top portion, of plain shelves, should be enclosed either with doors or sliding glass fronts; the lower portion, first lined with zinc and enclosed with solid wooden doors so constructed to fit nearly if not airtight. If an exclusive pot closet is desired, it should be handy to the range and at the same time be under cover for sanitary reasons.

This German kitchen is a model of neatness and cleanliness in its
white enamel furnishings. The cupboard provides space for china, the
long shelf beneath being a great convenience, while the various bins
and drawers provide proper places for everything
]

Frequently in a small kitchen a counter or drop leaves against the wall are substituted for a table, but in most kitchens a good-sized substantial table, preferably in the center of the room, is found indispensable. The table should have a smooth top that can be easily kept clean. Although costly, a heavy plate glass fitted perfectly with rounded edges makes a splendid top for the table.

The service part of the house, of which the kitchen is the central room, should fit together just as parts of a machine and form a unit in themselves. The pantries, store rooms, etc., should be placed so as to afford easy access one to the other.

In a house, which has two or more servants, a dining-room or alcove should be provided for their use. This may be a part of the kitchen or immediately adjoining, and merely large enough to seat comfortably the servants around a table.

A kitchen in a large country place that is equipped with every
possible convenience, sliding doors, built-in refrigerator, clothes
chute, dumbwaiter and a revolving drum between kitchen and butler's
pantry. There is also provision made for a servants' dining-room,
advisable wherever possible
]

The cook's pantry should contain cupboards in which are all the necessary paraphernalia for preparing pastries, puddings, etc., such as bins, bakeboards, crockery, pans and supplies, and should be lighted by at least one window.

The butler's pantry, or china-closet as it is often called--generally located and affording direct communication between the kitchen and the dining-room--is essentially a serving-room and should contain a sink with draining-boards, cupboards and shelves to accommodate the fine china, glassware and other requisites for the table. With such a plan the door between the pantry and kitchen may be either sliding or double swinging, but between the pantry and the dining-room, a noiseless double-swinging door. A slide, with small shelves or counters on either side, between the kitchen and pantry, for the passing of food and dishes, saves time and steps. It is well to have the communication rather indirect through the pantry to prevent in a measure the passage of odors or a direct view of the kitchen by those entering the dining-room or seated at the table. This can be partly accomplished by not having the communicating doors directly opposite each other.

The kitchen need not be large, if it is compact. In the house 25´ ×
50´ the ideal size is about 13´ × 15´. A work table of this sort
does away with many unnecessary steps, the lower shelf being a
convenient place to put articles that are in constant use
]

The outside entrance to the kitchen should be so placed as to facilitate the delivery of provisions, preferably through an entry or an enclosed porch.

The laundry in many houses is combined with the kitchen or immediately adjoining, in which latter case it often serves as an entry and a place to store certain articles, such as brooms, buckets and possibly the refrigerator. The very best plan is to have the laundry in the basement, with separate outside stairs. In such a case, a chute for sending soiled linen, etc., should run from the kitchen or pantry to the laundry.

The butler's pantry or serving-room should be equipped with a
cupboard and sink in order that the finer glass ware can be stored
and the more fragile articles be washed without finding their way
into the kitchen
]

A rather unusual plan, in which great economy of space is made by
building the service stairs about the chimney. The pantry is
exceedingly well arranged in that it takes up no room from the
kitchen or the dining-room
]

Plaster walls should be finished with a hard surface and given
several coats of a waterproof paint. The shelves beneath the sink
here provide a place useful and easily accessible
]

The kitchen should above all be well ventilated and have plenty of daylight. The necessary fumes and heat arising from the cooking should be taken care of in such a way that none of it is carried to the dining-room or to other parts of the house. This can partly be accomplished by the hood over the range, but plenty of fresh air is required. Generally in country homes, the living-rooms are given the southern exposure, so the kitchen usually faces the north. The best location is either the northern or eastern exposure, as the cooling breezes in the summer generally come from that direction, especially in this part of the country, and combined with the morning sun, make the kitchen cheerful and cool. If possible there should be exposure on at least two sides, opposite, affording cross ventilation as well as an abundance of light. All windows should be well fitted with screens in summer to keep out flies and other insects attracted by the odors of cooking.

The best artificial lighting is obtained by a reflector in the center of the kitchen, possibly with side brackets where necessary, as at the sink or at the range.

A very novel kitchen cupboard is this, with the shelf space in the
doors giving almost a double capacity. The bread board slides
beneath a shelf and is provided with handles
]

In a large house the service portion may be situated in a separate wing and if so the stairs should be in a small hall, centrally located and near the kitchen, especially the stairs to the cellar. This hall may contain a closet for brooms and a lavatory for the use of the servants. It it well not to have the stairway ascending directly from the kitchen, as it lessens the valuable wall space. The rooms directly over the kitchen can best be utilized in most cases for servants' sleeping rooms as they are often objectionable for members of the household, or guests.

JAMES EARLE MILLER

* * * * *

Transcriber's Notes: Italic text is denoted by _underscores_, bold text by =equals signs=.

End of Project Gutenberg's A Book of Distinctive Interiors, by Various