Chapter I: Preface

CONCERNING the purpose and scope of this little book I have but to repeat what I have said in the prefaces to my other works of the same nature--_A Book of the West_, _A Book of Dartmoor_, _A Book of Brittany_--that it is not intended as a Guide, but merely as an introduction to North Wales, for the use of intending visitors, that they may know something of the history of that delightful land they are about to see.

Welsh history is a puzzle to most Englishmen; accordingly I have made an attempt to simplify it sufficiently for the visitor to grasp its outlines. Without a knowledge of the history of a country in which one travels more than half its interest is lost.

I have to return my warmest thanks to kind friends who have helped me with information, notably the Rev. J. Fisher, B.D., of Cefn, S. Asaph; Mr. J. E. Griffith, of Bryn Dinas, Bangor; the Rev. E. Evans, of Llansadwrn; Mr. C. H. Jones, of the Public Library, Welshpool; Mr. A. Foulkes-Roberts, of Denbigh; Mr. D. R. Daniel, of Four Crosses, Chwilog; and Mr. R. Williams, of Celynog, Newtown. I am also much indebted to Mr. R. J. Lloyd Price, of Rhiwlas, for kindly allowing me to reproduce the portrait of Catherine of Berain in his possession; and to Mr. Prys-Jones, of Bryn-Tegid, Pontypridd, for sending me a photograph of the painting. But, indeed, everywhere in Wales I have met with general kindness and hospitality; and if I have failed to interest readers in the country and people the fault is all mine. It is a glorious country, and its people delightful.

S. BARING-GOULD

LEW TRENCHARD, N. DEVON
_May 17th, 1903_

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. THE WELSH PEOPLE 1

II. THE ENGLISH CONQUEST 12

III. ANGLESEY 22

IV. HOLYHEAD 46

V. BANGOR AND CARNARVON 63

VI. SNOWDON 90

VII. LLEYN 106

VIII. CONWAY 125

IX. S. ASAPH 145

X. DENBIGH 163

XI. LLANGOLLEN 183

XII. DOLGELLEY 205

XIII. HARLECH 231

XIV. WELSHPOOL 244

XV. NEWTOWN 271

XVI. MACHYNLLETH 291

ILLUSTRATIONS

FULL PAGE

CONWAY CASTLE _Frontispiece_
From a photograph by Messrs. F. Frith and Co.

WELSH WOMEN _To face page_ 8
From a photograph by Messrs. F. Frith and Co.

HOLYHEAD AT RHOSCOLYN ” 22
From a photograph by Messrs. F. Frith and Co.

SOUTH STACK LIGHT, HOLYHEAD ” 46
From a photograph by Messrs. F. Frith and Co.

SOUTH STACK BRIDGE ” 59
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

CARNARVON CASTLE ” 74
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

NANT BRIDGE, CARNARVON ” 80
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

BETHESDA ” 85
From a photograph by Messrs. F. Frith and Co.

SNOWDON ” 90
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

ABERGLASLYN PASS ” 95
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

LLANBERIS ” 99
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

BEDDGELERT ” 102
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

CAPEL CURIG ” 105
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

CONWAY CASTLE ” 125
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

PLAS MAWR, EXTERIOR ” 129
From a photograph by Messrs. F. Frith and Co.

PLAS MAWR, COURT ” 130
From a photograph by Messrs. F. Frith and Co.

CATHERINE OF BERAIN ” 146
From a painting.

RUTHIN CASTLE ” 163
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

LLANGOLLEN BRIDGE ” 183
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

BERWYN ” 184
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

BERWYN, FROM CASTELL DINAS BRAN ” 187
From a photograph by Messrs. F. Frith and Co.

THE LADIES OF LLANGOLLEN ” 188
From an old print.

THE PILLAR OF ELISEG ” 190
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

VALE CRUCIS ABBEY ” 191
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

VALE CRUCIS ABBEY FROM WITHIN ” 195
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

CADER IDRIS ” 205
From a photograph by Messrs. F. Frith and Co.

CADER IDRIS ” 206
From a photograph by Messrs. F. Frith and Co.

TORRENT WALK, DOLGELLEY ” 208
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

NULL, TORRENT WALK ” 209
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

CADER IDRIS ” 210
From a photograph by Messrs. F. Frith and Co.

PISTYLL-Y-CAIN ” 216
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

LYN-Y-GROES, DOLGELLEY ” 224
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

HALFWAY HOUSE, DOLGELLEY ” 226
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

HARLECH CASTLE ” 231
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

CHURCH, MONTGOMERY ” 246
From a photograph by F. Bligh Bond, Esq., F.R.I.B.A.

POWIS CASTLE ” 256
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

OWEN GLYNDWR’S PARLIAMENT HOUSE, MACHYNLLETH ” 291
From a photograph by Messrs. Valentine and Sons, Ltd.

OLD BRIDGE, DINAS MAWDDWY ” 300
From a photograph by Messrs. F. Frith and Co.

LLANEGRYN ” 308
From a photograph by F. Bligh Bond, Esq., F.R.I.B.A.

IN THE TEXT

PAGE

SERIGI. A STATUE AT CAERGYBI 25

S. SEIRIOL. STAINED GLASS, PENMON 31

HOLY WELL, PENMON 35

BASE OF SHRINE, LLANEILIAN 39

CROSS AT LLANBADRIG 41

S. CYBI. STATUE, SOUTH DOORWAY, CAERGYBI 53

DOORWAY, S. CYBI’S WELL 111

BRONWEN’S URN 235

TYSSILIO’S RING AT SAINT-SULIAC 264

GILDAS. A SIXTEENTH-CENTURY STATUE AT LOCMINÉ 279

NORTH WALES