Chapter XII: Appendix: Lichens Used for Dyeing Wool Brown

_Continued from page 62_

_S. scrobiculata._ Aik-raw, Oak rag. Found on trees in Scotland and England.

_Gyrophora deusta._ Scorched looking gyrophora. Found on rocks in Scandinavia. Linnæus states that it furnishes a paint called "Tousch," much used in Sweden.

_G. cylindrica._ Cylindrical gyrophora. On rocks in Iceland. Greenish brown. Also G. deusta.

_Alectoria jubata._ Horse hair lichen, Rock hair. On fir trees in England, pale greenish brown.

_Parmelia parietina._ Common yellow wall lichen, Wäg-mässa, Wag-laf. England and Sweden on trees, rocks, walls, palings. Used to dye Easter eggs. Used in Sweden for wool dyeing.

_Cetraria juniperina._ En-mossa. On trees in Scandinavia.

_Borrera flavicans._ Yellow borrera. On trees in Germany, gamboge yellow.

_Lecanora candelaria._ Ljus mässa. On trees in Sweden.

_Evernia flavicans._ Wolf's-bane evernia. On trees in Scandinavia, gamboge yellow.

_Lecidea atro-virens._ Map lichen. On rocks in Scandinavia.

_Lepraria chlorina._ Brimstone coloured lepraria. Scandinavia, on rocks.

_L. Iolithus._ Viol-mässa. Sweden, on stones. Gives to stones the appearance of blood stains.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Prof. G. Henslow. Uses of British Plants.

Dr. Plowright. British Dye Plants. (Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society, Vol. 26. 1901.)

Sowerby. Useful Plants of Great Britain.

Sowerby. English Botany.

Professor G. S. Boulger. The Uses of Plants. 1889.

Alfred Edge. Some British Dye Lichens. (Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists. May 1914).

J. J. Hummel. The Dyeing of Textile Fabrics.

Clement Bolton. A Manual of Wool Dyeing. 1913.

W. Crooks. Dyeing and Tissue Printing. 1882.

Rawson, Gardiner and Laycock. A Dictionary of Dyes, Mordants, 1901.

James Haigh. The Dyer's Assistant. 1778.

James Napier. A Manual of Dyeing Receipts. 1855.

James Napier. A Manual of the Art of Dyeing. 1853.

A Profitable Boke. (On Dyeing). Translated from the Dutch. 1583.

Darwin and Meldola. Woad. ("Nature", Nov. 12, 1896).

Mrs. Anstruther Mackay. Simple Home Dyeing.

English Encyclopædia. Dyeing. 1802.

Gardiner D. Hiscock. 20th Century Book of Recipes, Formulas and Processes. 1907.

F. J. Bird. The Dyer's Hand Book. 1875.

Hurst. Silk Dyeing and Printing. (Technological Hand Book. 1892).

Smith. Practical Dyers' Guide. 1849.

T. Sims. Dyeing and Bleaching. (British Manufacturing Industries. 1877.)

David Smith. The Dyers' Instructor. 1857.

The Dyer and Colour Maker's Companion. 1859.

Thomas Love. The Practical Dyer and Scourer. 1854.

Knecht, Rawson and Lowenthal. A Manual of Dyeing. 1893.

Berthollet. The Art of Dyeing. 1824.

George Jarmain. On Wool Dyeing. 6 Lectures. 1876.

Hellot, Macquer, M. le Pilleur D'Apligny. The Art of Dyeing Wool, Silk and Cotton. (Translated from the French, 1789. New Edition, 1901.)

The Art of Dyeing. (Translated from the German. 1705. Reprint 1913.)

R. P. Milroy. Handbook on Dyeing for Woollen Homespun Workers. (Congested Districts Board for Ireland).

Dr. W. L. Lindsay. On the Dyeing Properties of Lichens. (Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal, 1855).

T. Edmonston. "On the Native Dyes of the Shetland Islands." (Transactions of Botanical Society of Edinburgh, Vol. I. 1841).

Edward Bancroft. The Philosophy of Permanent Colours. 1794.

Francheville. On Ancient and Modern Dyes, 1767. (Royal Academy of Sciences, Berlin).

Parnell's Applied Chemistry.--Article on Dyeing.

William Morris. "Of Dyeing as an Art." (Essays by Members of the Arts and Crafts Exhibition Society, 1903).

William Morris. "The Lesser Arts of Life." (From Architecture, Industry and Wealth. 1902).

Brewster's Edinburgh ncyclopædia. 1830. Dyeing.

Sansome. "Dyeing." 1888.

John M. Thomson. The Practical Dyer's Assistant. 1849.

GLOSSARY AND INDEX.

A.--_Adjective dyes_, 24. Dyes which require a mordant.

_Alder bark_, 43, 44, 100, 126.

_Alizarin._ The chief colouring principle of madder. It is also the name for an extensive series of chemical colours produced from anthracene, one of the coal tar hydrocarbons, discvrd., 1868.

_Alkaline ley_, 28.

_Almond_, 120.

_Amber_, 132.

_Alum_, 26-29.

_Aluminium sulphate_, 26.

_Aniline_, 3. Discovered, 1826 (_añil, Span. indigo_). First prepared from indigo by means of caustic potash. Found in coal in 1834. Manufactured on a large scale after Perkin's discovery of mauve in 1856.

_Anatta_, (Anotto, Arnotto, Roucou), 111. A dye obtained from the pulp surrounding the seeds of the _Bixa orellana_; chiefly used in dyeing silk an orange colour, but is of a fugitive nature.

_Archil_, 52, 53, 54.

_Argol_, 131. The tartar deposited from wines completely fermented, and adhering to the sides of casks as a hard crust. When purified it becomes Cream of Tartar.

_Ash_, 41, 120.

_Astringents_, 19, 26.

B.--_Barberry_, 41, 120.

_Barwood_, 67, 106.

_Beck._--A large vessel or tub used in dyeing.

_Bichromate of Potash_, 32.

_Birch_, 38, 42, 43, 99, 103.

_Black_, 122-123; from logwood, 79-85.

_Black Dye Plants_, 44.

_Blue_, 63; from Indigo, 66-75; from lichen, 61; from logwood, 79-85.

_Blue black_, 81.

_Blue Dye Plants_, 39.

_Blue stone_, 33.

_Blue vitriol_, 33-36.

_Bois de Campêche_, 77.

_Bois jaune_, Fustic, yellow wood.

_Brazil woods_, 106.

_British Dye Plants_, 37-44.

_Broom_, 41, 134.

_Brown_, 122-133; from lichens, 45-49, 51, 56, 57, 60-62, 140; from madder, 102, 106; from weld, 112; from woad, 76.

_Brown Dye Plants_, 43.

_Buff_, 115.

C.--_Campeachy Wood_, 77.

_Camwood_, 106, 131.

_Carthamus._ Safflower, an annual plant cultivated in S. Europe, Egypt and Asia for the red dye from its flowers.

_Catechu_, 33, 35, 36, 122-6.

_Caustic Soda._ Carbonate of soda, boiled with lime.

_Chestnut_, 35.

_Chrome_, 32, 33.

_Cinnamon_, 102.

_Claret_, 51, 84.

_Coal Tar Colours._ Colours obtained by distillation and chemical treatment from coal tar, a product of coal during the making of gas. There are over 2,000 colours in use.

_Cochineal_, 92-7, 132.

_Copper_, 33-5.

_Copper sulphate_, 33.

_Copperas_, 29, 30, 129.

_Corcur_, 51.

_Cotton_, 18; the dyeing of, 19; without mordant, 21; method in India, 19, 20; the mordanting of, 26.

_Cream_, from catechu, 124.

_Cream of Tartar_, 28-32, 34. See argol.

_Crimson_, 94-96, 106; from lichens, 49, 60.

_Crottle_, 46, 56-60, 62.

_Cudbear_, 45, 52, 54, 55, 57, 58, 67, 85, 129.

D.--_Detergent_, 15. A cleansing agent.

_Dip._ Generally applied to immersing cloth etc. in the blue vat.

_Divi-divi_, 35, 36. The dried pods of _Cæsalpina coriaria_, growing in the West Indies and S. America. They contain 20 to 35% tannin and a brown colouring matter.

_Dock_, 40, 44, 50, 69, 120, 135.

_Drab_, 80, 118, 126.

_Dyer's Broom_, 40, 121, 135.

_Dyer's Spirit_, 32. Aqua fortis, 10 parts; Sal Ammoniac, 5 parts; Tin, 2 parts; dissolved together.

_Dyer's Weed_, 40, 134.

E.--_Enter._ To enter wool, to put it into the dye or mordant liquor.

_Extract of Indigo_, 65-69.

F.--_Felting_, to prevent, 15.

_Fenugrec_, Fenugreek, 107. _Trigonnella fœnugræcum._

_Ferrous sulphate_, 29.

_Flavin._ A colouring matter extracted from quercitron.

_Fleece_, various kinds of, 13.

_Flesh colour_, 132.

_Full, to._ To tread or beat cloth for the purpose of cleansing and thickening it.

_Fuller's Herb._ _Saponaria officinalis._ A plant used in the process of fulling.

_Fuller's Thistle_ or Teasle. _Dipsacus fullonum._ Used for fulling cloth.

_Fustet._ Young fustic. Venetian Sumach. _Rhus cotinus._ It gives a fine orange colour, which has not much permanence.

_Fustic_, 113-116, 130, 131, 135.

G.--_Galls_, _Gall nuts_, 26, 129. Oak galls produced by the egg of an insect,--the female gall wasp. An excrescence is produced round the egg, & the insect, when developed, pierces a hole & escapes. Those gall nuts which are not pierced contain most tannic acid. The best come from Aleppo and Turkey.

_Gramme_ or _Gram_. About 15½ grains (Troy).

_Green_, 133-9; with fustic, 137-8; with weld, 139.

_Green Dye Plants_, 42.

_Green Vitriol_, 29.

_Green wood_, 107, 108, 134.

_Greening weed_, 121.

_Grey_, 67, 79; from logwood, 80, 85.

H.--_Hazel colour_, 128.

_Heather_, 40, 85, 121, 135.

I.--_Iceland moss_, 51, 61.

_Indigo_, 63-75, 135-139.

_Indigo Extract_, 64-70; for green, 135-139.

_Iron_, 29-30.

K.--_Kermes_, 87-91.

_Kilo. Kilogramme._ Equals 2 lbs. 3·2 oz.

_Korkalett_, 50.

L.--_Lac_, 97, 98.

_Larch_, 43, 131, 137.

_Lavender_, 84.

_Lesser Dye_, 77, 79.

_Ley_, see lye.

_Lichen_, 45-62, 140.

_Lilac_, 95, 96, 97.

_Lima Wood_, 106, 107.

_Linen_, 21; to bleach, 22; the mordanting of, 26; various kinds of, 21.

_Litre_, 80. Nearly 1¾ pints.

_Lixiviation._ The process of separating a soluble substance from an insoluble by the percolation of water.

_Lixivium._ (Lye). A term often used in old dye books. Water impregnated with alkaline salts extracted by lixiviation from wood ashes.

_Logwood_, 77, 130, 131, 137.

_Lye_ or _Ley_. Any strong alkaline solution, especially one used for the purpose of washing, such as soda lye, soap lye.

M.--_Madder_, 38, 98-105, 132.

_Magenta_, 44.

_Maize_, 132.

_Mercerised Cotton._ Cotton prepared by treating with a solution of caustic potash or soda or certain other chemicals. Discovered by John Mercer in 1844.

_Milling._ The operation of fulling cloth.

_Mordants_, 24; general remarks on, 34; primitive mordants, 25.

_Muriate of Tin_, 31.

_Myrobalans_, 26, 35, 36. The fruit of several species of trees, growing in China & the East Indies, containing tannic acid, (25-40% tannin).

O.--_Oak bark_, 128.

_Oak galls_, 35, 36.

_Oil of Vitriol_, 64, 65, 67. Sulphuric acid.

_Old Fustic_, see Fustic.

_Old Gold_, 109, 112-114.

_Olive_, 109, 113, 118, 135.

_Onion skins_, 128.

_Orange_, 91, 93, 102, 106, 109, 120, 132; from lichens, 48, 51, 58, 60-2.

_Orchil_, 45, 52-55.

_Organzine._ Twisted raw silk from best cocoons, used for warp.

_Orseille_, 58.

_Oxalic Acid_, 30, 31.

P.--_Pastel_, 77. Woad.

_Peach_, 120.

_Peach wood_, 106-107.

_Pear_, 41, 120.

_Pearl ash._ Carbonate of Potash.

_Peat Soot_, 128.

_Persian Berries._ The dried unripe fruit of various species of Rhamnus. Also called French berries, Grains of Avignon.

_Philamort_, 48.

_Pink_, 93; from lichen, 57.

_Plum colour_, from lichen, 48.

_Poplar_, 42, 135.

_Potassium Carbonate._ (Potashes). Carbonate of Potash has been known since ancient times as a constituent of the ashes of land plants, from which it is obtained by extraction with water. In most cases Sodium Carbonate, which it strongly resembles, can be used in its place.

_Potassium dichromate_, 32.

_Privet_, 39, 41, 42, 121.

_Purple_, from lichens, 53, 57-60, 62; with cochineal, 95, 96; with logwood, 82, 85, 86, 87.

_Purple Dye Plants_, 43.

Q.--_Quercitron_, 116-120; for green, 135-137.

R.--_Red_, 87-107; from lichens, 48-51, 53, 56, 58, 60.

_Red Dye Plants_, 38.

_Red Spirits._ Tin spirits. Applied to tin mordants generally. A solution of Stannous chloride.

_Red woods._ Camwood, Barwood, Sanderswood (Santal, Sandal, Red Sanders), Brazil wood, Sapan wood, Peach wood.

_Retting_, 21.

_Roucou._ Anatta, Arnotto.

S.--_Sandalwood_ or Saunderswood, 106.

_Sadden, to_, _saddening_, 14, 30, 34, 127, 130, 132. To darken or dull in colour.

_Sapan wood_, 106.

_Savory_, 107, 108.

_Sawwort_, 41, 135.

_Saxon blue_, 67, 70, 136. The dye made by Indigo dissolved in oil of vitriol.

_Saxon green_, 118, 136, 138.

_Scarlet_, 88, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 97, 98.

_Scarlet of Grain_, 87.

_Scotch ell._ 37·2 inches.

_Scour, to._ To wash.

_Scroop._ The rustling property of silk.

_Scrottyie_, 49, 50, 59.

_Silk_, 16-18; to alum, 18; general method of dyeing, 17; to mordant, 26; the preparation of, 17; to soften, 18; various kinds of, 16; raw, 16, 17; waste, 16.

_Silver drab_, 84.

_Sloe_, 39.

_Soda ash._ Carbonate of soda.

_Soda ley_, 101.

_Sour water_, 28. To every gallon of water, add 1 gill vitriol; stir thoroughly. Stuff steeped in this should be covered with the liquor, otherwise it will rot.

(2). Water in which bran has been made to grow sour. 24 bushels of bran are put in a tub, about 10 hogsheads of nearly boiling water is poured into it; acid fermentation soon begins, and in 24 hours it is ready to use.

(3). Throw some handfuls of bran into hot water and let it stand for 24 hours, or till the water becomes sour, when it is fit for use.

_Stannous Chloride_, 31.

_Staple_, 11, 12. A term applied to cotton and wool, indicating length of fibre.

_Stuffing and Saddening_, 14, 30.

_Substantive Dye_, 24, 52, 65, 116. A dye not requiring a mordant.

_Sulphuric Acid_, 64, 66, 67, 70, 120, 131.

_Sumach_, 26, 35, 36, 126. Leaves and twigs of several species of Rhus, containing Tannic acid. It is sold in the form of crushed leaves or as a powder, (15-20% tannin).

T.--_Tannic Acid_, 26, 35.

_Tannin_, 35, 36.

_Tin_, 31, 32.

_Tin crystals_, 31.

_Tin salts_, 31.

_Tram._ Slightly twisted raw silk, used for weft.

_Turkey Red_, 99.

_Turmeric_, 116.

_Turquoise_, 69.

_Tyrian purple._ A purple colour obtained from certain shell fish, such as Buccinum & Purpura. It is mentioned by Pliny as being discovered in 1400 B.C. It was a lost art in the middle ages.

V.--_Valonia_, 35. Acorn cups of certain species of oak from S. Europe, containing 25-35% of tannic acid.

_Vegetable alkali._ Potash.

_Verdigris_, 33. Acetate of copper.

_Violet_, 86, 94, 103.

_Vitrum_, 76.

W.--_Walnut_, 43, 127, 132.

_Water_ for dyeing, 23.

_Weld_, 107-112, 120, 130, 134, 135.

_Wet out_, to. To damp, before putting the yarn or cloth into the dye.

_Woad_, 39, 75-77.

_Wool_, 11; to bleach, 16; to cleanse, 15, 16; long staple wool, 12; various kinds of, 11, 12, 13.

_Wool Dyeing_, general methods, 13-16.

Y.--_Yarn_, to soften, 16.

_Yellow_, 107-122; from lichens, 51, 57, 140; from sumach, 126.

_Yellow Dye Plants_, 39.

_Yellow Weed_, 134.

_Yellow Wood_, 107.

ERRATA

page 59. Rock Urcolaria shld. be Rock Urceolaria.

page 61. Flowering lusnea shld. be Flowering Usnea.

page 144. (printed without being corrected).

Add:--_Alder bark_, 43, 44, 100, 126.

_Almond_, 120.

_Amber_, 132.

_Argol_, 131.

_Ash_, 41, 120.

_Barwood_, 67, 106.

Correct:--

authracene to anthracene

_anie_ to _añil_

Roucon to Roucou

sorrounding to surrounding

_Printed by Douglas Pepler at Ditchling_

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