Chapter VII: Aledjo-Kadara--The Switzerland of Togo

On the march from Paratau to Aledjo-Kadara--A terrible stage
--Doubt and depression--An uphill journey--I feel my
health improving--An accident--Native sympathy--Our
cook annexes our dining-table--A lovely camp--A thousand
yards up and surrounded by mountains--The Switzerland of
Togo--Beautiful rest-houses--The harmattan--Grass
fires--Filming a drama--Another accident--Nebel and I
nearly fall over a precipice--Nebel homesick--He leaves
for Europe--Filming the final scene of _Odd Man Out_--We
visit Bafilo, near Aledjo--Great reception by natives for
the first white woman--The Uro (king) of Bafilo meets us
in state--Torch play to celebrate the finish of Ramadam--
More filming--An astonished native--Industrial films--
The cotton industry--Trade guilds--Primitive looms and
spindles--Making beads from palm nuts--Baboons like dogs
and rabbits with feet like elephants 80-96

CHAPTER VIII

AMONG THE BAFILO FOLK

The native market at Bafilo--Native sweetmeats--Cowries as
currency--A native barber shaving a baby's head--Togo
boys playing at the West African equivalent of pitch and
toss--A woman's dance that out-tangos the tango--Native
baskets at a farthing apiece--Hyenas--I am nearly bitten
by a puff-adder--A leopard--Early stables--Filming
again--A glut of supers--A "woman palaver"--One of our
people abducts a native girl--His punishment--I read the
girl a lecture--But make little impression--"He gave me
these"--A drunken native--I intercede for him with his
chief--Wild tribes from the Kabre Mountains--Nude but
modest--The shy girl and her bag of salt--A native falls
in love with me--Beautiful native work--I buy a cloak of
native manufacture--Good-bye to Bafilo 97-107

CHAPTER IX

ON THE MARCH ONCE MORE

On trek once more--A disquieting discovery--I am very angry
--A long day's journey--I narrowly escape sunstroke--
"Wholesome anger a good tonic"--I taste native beer for
the first time--And find it both refreshing and sustaining
--Antelope spoor--Exchange carriers--First meeting
with the Konkombwa--The finest race of savages in Togo--
Native dandies--Trouble with our horse boys--They are
punished--In the heart of the wilds--European and native
rest-houses--Paying our carriers with salt--Schomburgk
gets "bushed"--Resents my anxiety--We quarrel--Elephant
spoor--I am given my first lesson in wood-craft--
Mosquitoes--The yellow-fever breeding anophele--We cross
the Kara River--First sight of hippopotami--We strike the
Oti, the principal river of Northern Togo 108-124

CHAPTER X

CHRISTMAS AT SANSANE-MANGU

At Mangu--Captain von Hirschfeld--I make an "impression"--
Though not the kind I should have liked to have made--"The
Place where Warriors Meet"--A brush with the Tschokossi
--Captain von Hirschfeld's splendid hospitality--Tamberma
Fort--The head tax---The Mangu plantations--Mangu in
the rainy season--Great heat--Terrific thunderstorms--
Our Christmas dinner at Mangu--New Year's Eve festivities
--We burn three thousand feet of film--Game birds round
Mangu--A fishing carnival--Queer native methods--
Canoeing on the Oti River--A marvellous shot--Filming in
the tropics--More difficulties--The new station at Mangu,
and the old one--A striking contrast--The big Mangu
"songu"--A gathering of the clans--Trapping a hyena--
A plague of bats--Fresh milk and native butter--Ancient
records at Mangu 125-140

CHAPTER XI

OUR "FARTHEST NORTH"

Northward from Mangu--Wild savages and poisoned arrows--A
treacherous attack and a lucky escape--Different arrow
poisons--Grass fires and their drawbacks--Mosquitoes and
some yarns about them--Wild natives--The wild Tschokossi
women--A new dress every day--Our boys go swimming in
a crocodile-infested pool--Our pet monkey gets loose--
Searching for hippos--An unreliable guide--Sullen natives
--A too-early call--A wonderful game country--In God's
big "zoo"--Gorgeous plumaged birds--I want Schomburgk
to shoot some for me--He objects--Sun birds and blue
jays--Across a yam-field country--A bird sanctuary--
Discovery of a flock of marabou--I regret having no gun--
The costliest feathers on earth--Our guide loses his way
again--Fulani herdsmen--They supply us with fresh milk--
Arrival at Sumbu 141-158