Chapter XV (2)

On the 16th of February, which was Sunday, I put the last touches on the map, drawn from the original on a large sheet of tracing cloth, rolled it carefully up, and placed it in a long tin tube we had ordered from the local tinsmith. This I carried on my back, as I did not mean to be separated from it a minute till I gave it into the hands of Wells, Fargo & Co.'s express in Salt Lake. Jack was to go with me. Saying a last good-bye to Prof. and Mrs. Thompson, to John, and to some of my Kanab friends who came to see the start, we left a little after noon, with one pack on a broncho mule, Jack riding a mule and I a favourite horse of mine called by the unusual name of Billy. The pack-mule always had to be blindfolded before we could handle him, and if the blind should accidentally slip off there was an instantaneous convulsion which had a most disrupting effect. Going straight up the canyon, we crossed over finally into Long Valley, and were on the headwaters of the Virgin. At sunset we came to a little settlement called Mt. Carmel, but continued to Glendale, where we arrived about half-past seven, having come in all thirty miles. At the bishop's house we were welcomed and there got some supper, putting our three animals in his corral. We did not care to sleep in the house, choosing for our resting-place the last remains of a haystack, where we spread our blankets, covering the whole with a paulin, as the sky looked threatening. I never slept more comfortably in my life, except that I was half-aroused in the stillness by water trickling down my neck. Half-asleep we pulled the canvas clear up over our heads and were troubled no more. When we awoke in the morning a heaviness on top of us we knew meant snow. We were covered by a full foot of it, soft and dry. Valley, mountain, everything was a solid expanse of white, the only dark spot being our red blankets as we threw back the paulin. The sky was grey and sullen. More snow was in the air. As soon as breakfast was eaten we slung our pack, saddled, and rode up the valley, following as well as we could the directions given by the bishop. Neither Jack nor I had been this way before. We could see the slight depression in the surface of the snow which indicated a waggon-rut beneath, and by that token continued up the ever-narrowing valley; the slopes sprinkled by large pine trees. Snow fell thickly. It was not always easy to see our way, but we went on. At a certain point we were to turn to the left up a side gulch, following it till we came to the divide, some eight thousand or nine thousand feet above sea-level, where we expected to go down to the head of the Sevier Valley, where Jack had before been by another route. At the gulch we deemed the correct one, no road or trail being visible, we turned late in the afternoon to the left and rapidly mounted higher, with the fresh snow growing correspondingly deeper till it was about two feet on the level. The going was slow and hard, the sky still dropping heavy flakes upon us. About five o'clock we found ourselves on the summit of a high bald knob topping the world. In every direction through the snow-mist similar bald knobs could be seen looming against the darkening sky. The old drifts were so deep that where a horse broke through the crust he went down to the end of his leg. This excited them, and they plunged wildly. I finally got them all three still and quiet, while Jack scanned the outlook intently. "See any landmark, Jack?" said I. "Not a damned thing I ever saw before!" answered Jack. At brief intervals the falling snow would cease, and we could see more clearly, except that the impending night began to cast over all a general obscurity.

There was a deep valley beyond to the right. While it was not possible to tell directions we felt that our course must lie there, and I led the way down a long treeless slope, breaking a path as well as I could, my horse following behind; the others urged on by Jack from the rear. The snow became shallower near the bottom. We mounted and I rode in the direction that Jack thought we ought to take to come to the road down the Sevier where he had before travelled. We crossed the valley in doing this, but at one point in the very bottom my horse wanted to turn to the left, which would have taken us down the deepening valley. I prevented his turning and we continued up a gulch a mile or two, where it narrowed till we could barely proceed. Jack then climbed up on a cliff and disappeared, endeavouring to see some familiar object, the falling snow having at last stopped. I stood in my tracks with the three animals and waited so long I began to be afraid that Jack had met with an accident. Just then I heard him descending. It was nearly dark. He could not see any sign of the region he had been in before. Snow and darkness puzzle one even in a familiar country. We then went back to the valley where the horse had wished to turn and followed it down, now believing that it might be the right way after all, for Billy had been over the road several times. Another example of horse sense, which seems to prove that horses know more than we think they do. We had expected to reach Asa's ranch before night and had not brought an axe, in consequence. Keeping down the valley till we came to a group of cedars, some of which were dead, and a tall pine tree, we camped, pulling branches from the cedars and bark from the pine for a fire, which quickly melted its way down to the ground, leaving a convenient seat all round about twenty inches high, upon which we laid blankets to sit on. Our pack contained enough food for supper; breakfast would have to take care of itself. We also had some grain, which we fed to the hungry animals and tied them under the cedars, where they were protected in a measure from the sharp wind though they were standing in deep snow. For ourselves we cut twigs from the green cedars and made a thick mattress on the snow with them. Our blankets on top of these made a bed fit for a king. The storm cleared entirely; a brilliant moon shone over all, causing the falling frost in the air to scintillate like diamonds.

In the morning, Tuesday, February 18th, we packed up at once, having nothing left to eat, and proceeded down the valley wondering if we were on the right road or not. The sky arched over with that deep tone that is almost black in winter in high altitudes, and the sun fell in a dazzling sheet upon the wide range of unbroken white. The surface was like a mirror; the eyes closed against the intense light instinctively. As we went on northwards and downwards a faint, double, continuous hollow began to appear on the snow--a waggon-track at the bottom. It became more and more distinct and we then felt sure that we were on the right road, though we were not positive till near noon when, approaching a rocky point, we suddenly heard the clear ring of an axe on the metallic air. A few moments later turning this we saw a large, swift stream flowing clear between snowy banks, and beyond a log cabin with blue smoke rising from the immense stone chimney. In front was a man chopping wood. His dog was barking. It was a welcome, a beautiful picture of frontier comfort. It was Asa's ranch. Asa was one of the men who helped the Major on his arrival at the mouth of the Virgin in 1869, now having changed his residence to this place. We were soon made welcome in the single large room of the cabin where all the family were, and while the horses were having a good feed an equally good one for us was prepared by Mrs. Asa on the fire burning snugly in the great chimney. Never did fried ham, boiled eggs, and hot coffee do better service. We could not have been more cordially received if these Mormons had been our own relatives.

We rested there till about three o'clock, when we bade them all good-bye and rode on down the valley, the snow continually lessening in depth, till, when we reached the much lower altitude of Panguitch at sunset, twenty-six miles from our night's camp, there were only three or four inches and the temperature was not nearly so low, though still very cold. According to custom we applied to the bishop for accomodation for ourselves and our stock and were again cordially received. We were quickly made comfortable before a bright fire on the hearth which illumed the whole room. While the good wife got supper, the bishop, an exceedingly pleasant man, brought out some Dixie wine he had recently received. He poured us out each a large goblet and took one himself. After a hearty supper Jack and I put down our blankets on the bishop's haystack and knew nothing more till sunrise. Leaving Panguitch we rode on down the Sevier, crossing it frequently, and made about forty miles, passing through Sevier Canyon and Circle Valley, where there were a number of deserted houses, and arrived for night at the ranch of a Gentile named Van Buren. By this time my eyes, which had been inflamed by the strong glare of the sun, began to feel as if they were full of sand, and presently I became aware that I was afflicted with that painful malady snowblindness. I could barely see, the pain in both eyes was extreme, and a river of tears poured forth continually. Other men whom we heard of as we went on were blinded worse than I. All I could do, having no goggles, was to keep my hat pulled down and cut off the glare as much as possible.[39] At Marysvale the stage had been abandoned. We kept on, finding as we advanced that all the stages were put out of business by the epizoötic. There was nothing for Jack to do but to go on with me to Nephi.

In riding through one village I saw a sign on the closed door of a store just off the road and my curiosity led me to ride up close enough to read it. I did not linger. The words I saw were "SMALL POX." That night we reached Nephi under the shadow of the superb Mount Nebo, where I tried again for a stage so that Jack could return. No stage arrived and the following morning we rode on northward over very muddy roads, finally reaching Spanish Fork, where a fresh snow-storm covered the country about a foot, making travelling still more difficult. Another day's journey put us as far as American Fork, only three miles from the end of the railway, a place called Lehi, for which we made a very early start the next day, Wednesday, February 25th, but when we arrived there through the mud and slush the train had taken its departure. Our pack mule was now very lame and travelled with difficulty, but we continued on toward Salt Lake. The train had become stalled in the immense snowdrifts at the Point-of-the-Mountain and there we overtook it. I was soon on board with my tin case and other baggage, but it was a considerable time before the gang of men and a snow plough extricated the train. About five o'clock we ran into the town. I went to the Walker House, then the best hotel, and that night slept in a real room and a real bed for the first time in nearly two years, but I opened the windows as wide as they would go. In the morning I sent off the map and then turned my attention to seeing the Mormon capital. Cap. was now living there and it was Fennemore's home. I also found Bonnemort and MacEntee in town, and Jack came on up the remaining short distance in order to take a fresh start for Kanab.

Nearly forty years have slipped away since the events chronicled in this volume. Never was there a more faithful, resolute band of explorers than ours. Many years afterward Prof. said in a letter to me speaking of the men of the Second Powell Expedition, "I have never seen since such zeal and courage displayed." From out the dark chasm of eternity comes the hail, "Tirtaan Aigles dis wai!" and already many of that little company have crossed to Killiloo. The Major and Prof. repose in the sacred limits of Arlington. Strew their graves with roses and forget them not. They did a great work in solving the last geographical problem of the United States.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 35: Professor Thompson declared to me not long before his death that the river was accurate as far as Catastrophe Rapid, (about where longitude 113.39 intersects the river) but from there to the Virgin it might need some corrections.]

[Footnote 36: Some men from Kanab afterwards came in, sawed one in two and made it shorter, and then tried to go up the canyon by towing. They did not get far, and the boat was abandoned. The floods then carried both down to destruction.]

[Footnote 37: A description of this journey ascribed to September, 1870, occurs at page 108, _et seq._, in Powell's report on the _Exploration of the Colorado River of the West_, 1875.]

[Footnote 38: Oonupits or Innupits is the singular, Innupin the plural. It may be translated witch, elf, or goblin, with evil tendencies. On the other hand they did not fear a spirit. When on the Kaibab in July with Chuar and several other Indians, Prof. while riding along heard a cry something like an Indian halloo. "After we got into camp," he said in his diary: "Chuar asked George Adair what he called that which lived after the body died. George replied, 'A spirit.' 'Well,' said Chuar, 'that was what hallooed in the forest to-day. It was the spirit of a dead Indian. I have often heard it. Sometimes it is near, sometimes far away. When I was here with Beaman I heard it call near me. I answered, telling it to come to me. It did not come nor reply, and I felt very much ashamed to think I had called.'"]

[Footnote 39: For travelling across snow one should always be provided with smoked goggles. Failing to have them, lines of charcoal should be drawn below the eyes or a scarf tied so as to break the glare.]

INDEX

A

Adair, George, 153, 241

Adams, Nathan, 241, 253;
his endowment garment, 259

Agua Grande, Navajo chief, 147

Aigles, Tirtaan, slogan, 75, 267

Alcove Brook, 47

Altitude of Colorado River above sea, Black's Fork, 15;
Junction Green and Grand, 114;
Paria, 151, 217;
Grand Wash, 217;
Little Colorado, 223;
Kanab Canyon, 241

American Fork, 266

Amerind, viii.

Andy, _see_ Hattan

Aquarius Plateau, 200, 202

Arlington, Powell and Thompson buried there, 267

Arms, kind used, 12

Asa, ranch, 264, 265;
assisted Powell, 265

Ashley, Wm. H., through Red Canyon, 2, 28, 95;
name on rocks, 28

Ashley Falls, 26;
portage at, 27

Ashtishkal, Navajo chief, 177

Aspen Lakes, 201

Averett, Elijah, grave of, 197

Azure Cliffs, 99

B

Baird, Professor Spencer, vi.

Bangs, Mount, climbed, 194

Barbenceta, principal chief of the Navajos, 168

Base line, 166, 173, 174

Basor, teamster, 68

Beadle, J. H., 215;
under name of Hanson, 215

Beaman, E. O., place in boat, 11;
duty of, 11;
leaves party, 179;
passes Paria on way to Moki Towns, 216;
up from Kanab Canyon to Surprise Valley, 241

Beaver, ground, 77;
shoot one, 78;
steak cooked, 78;
soup, 78

Berry's Spring, 188;
arrive at, 191

Berthoud and Bridger lay out waggon road, 67

Best Expedition, place of starting, 95

Big Boulder Creek, 202

Bishop, Francis Marion (Cap.), place in boat, 11;
duty of, 11;
leaves party, 180

Bishop's Creek, 54

Bison, pictographs, 61;
range on Green River, 61

Black Rock Canyon, 193

Black's Fork, 15

Boats of the Second Powell Expedition, the, 4;
names of, 4;
described, 5, 6;
method of packing, 8;
order of going, 11;
crews of, 11;
no iron on keels, 14;
built to float when full of water, 25;
reassignment of crews, 136, 215;
_Cañonita_ cached, 135;
launched again, 209;
crew for, 209;
_Dean_ cached, 154;
_Nellie Powell_ cached, 154;
_Dean_ discovered by Beadle, 215;
_Nellie Powell_ abandoned, 215;
_Cañonita_ and _Dean_ abandoned, 244

Bonito Bend, 111

Bonnemort, John, 143;
leaves party, 179;
in Salt Lake City, 267

Boston burned, news of, received, 256

Bow-knot Bend, 108

Bread, kind used, 4

Bridger and Berthoud lay out waggon road, 67

Bridger, Jim, 95

Brigham Young, 170, 185

Bright Angel Creek, arrive at mouth of, 232;
why so named, 232

Brown expedition, place of starting, 95

Brown's Hole, name changed to Brown's Park, 18, 30;
arrive at, 30

Brush Creek, 54

Buckskin Mountain (Kaibab Plateau), 159

Buenaventura, Rio San, Escalante's name for Green River, 67

Buffalo _Express_, letters from F. S. Dellenbaugh to, vii.

Butte of the Cross, 110

C

Campbell, Richard, knew of ford El Vado de los Padres, 96

Camp moved to the Gap, 171

_Cañonita_, left behind, 135;
reached overland, 209

Canyon of Desolation, enter it, 77;
character and height of walls, 80, 84, 85;
length of, 91

Canyon of Lodore, enter it, 34;
declivity of, 43;
length of, 48;
fall of, 48

Canyons, for list of, with heights of walls, lengths, etc.,
see _The Romance of the Colorado River_, Appendix

Canyons not dark in daytime, 25

Cap., _see_ Bishop

Capsize, of the _Cañonita_, 23;
of the _Dean_, 235

Carleton, companion of Beaman, 216

Carson, Kit, 95

Cascade Creek, 43, 202

Cascades of rain, 105, 106, 132

Cataract Canyon, declivity compared, 43;
beginning of, 115;
height of walls, 116, 122, 126, 128, 129;
we enter it, 118;
declivity in, 118;
boulders rolled by current, 118;
width of river, 119;
boat runs rapid alone, 121;
stones rocked by current, 127;
length of, 132;
end of, 132;
number of rapids, 132

Cataract Creek, 96, 202

Catastrophe Rapid, vi., 242, 243

Caves once occupied, 132

Chandler Falls, 87;
Creek, 87

Chicago, burning of, first news, 157

Chicago _Tribune_, letters from Clement Powell to, v.

Chief Douglas, Major and Mrs. Powell winter near his camp, 172

Chocolate Cliffs, 166

Chuarooumpeak, chief of Kaibab band of Pai Utes, 250;
shoots at Oonupits, 252;
singing, 252;
hears spirit call, 253;
goes back to Kanab, 254

Circle Valley, pass through it, 266

Clarkson, Mormon settlement, 197

Clear or Spring Creek (Badger Creek), 158

Clem, _see_ Powell

Clemente, Rio San, Escalante's name for White River, 67

Cliff-of-the-Harp named, 43

Coal Canyon, 91

Colob Plateau, 191

Colorado, from, into Utah, 56

Colorado River, accuracy of plat of course, vi., vii., 243;
upper continuation of, 1;
white salmon, 98;
actual beginning of, 115;
excessive high water, 244

Compass Creek, 24

Condition of party at end of first season's river work, 145

Course of the Colorado River, accuracy of, vi., vii., 243

Craggy Canyon, 57

Crater, recent, in Uinkaret country, 188

Creek, Sentinel, 149

Crescent Creek, 209

Crossing of the Fathers, the, _see_ El Vado de los Padres

D

Dance, Mormon, 173

Davy Crockett, Fort, 30

_Dean_, the _Emma_, cached for the winter, 154;
discovered by J. H. Beadle, 215

Deer, game, etc., 26

Dellenbaugh, Butte, 102, 104;
Mount, named, 254;
Thompson climbs it, 259

Dellenbaugh, F. S., joins party, 3;
position in boat, 11;
duty of, 11;
letters from, to Buffalo _Express_, vii.

De Motte, Professor, 213

Denver, Colorado Canyon, and Pacific Railway, 119

Denver and Rio Grande Railway crossing of Green River, 95

Denver to Salt Lake, waggon road _via_ Golden and Provo,
and Robideau Crossing of Green River, 67

Descent, in feet of Green-Colorado River, from Union Pacific
Railway to Black's Fork, 15;
to Flaming Gorge, 17;
in Red Canyon, 33;
in Lodore, 48;
in Whirlpool, 56;
to the mouth of the Uinta, 71;
from Wonsits Valley to Gunnison Crossing, 93;
from the Union Pacific to Gunnison Crossing, 93;
from Gunnison Crossing to junction of Green and Grand, 114;
from Union Pacific to mouth of Grand River, 114;
from mouth of Grand River to Dirty Devil, 134;
from Union Pacific to Dirty Devil (Frémont), 135;
from Union Pacific to Paria (Lee Ferry), 151;
from Paria to Little Colorado, 223;
from Little Colorado to Grand Wash, 223;
from Little Colorado to Kanab, 241;
from Paria to Kanab, 241

Desolation, Canyon of, enter it, 77;
perforations in walls of, 82;
width of river in, 83, 89;
height of walls, 84, 85;
natural arches in, 87, 88;
end of, 91;
length of, 91

Diamond Butte, how named, 192

Diamond Creek mouth astronomically determined, 95

Diary, of Professor Thompson, vii.;
of John F. Steward, vii.;
of F. S. Dellenbaugh, vii.;
of Jack Summer, 7

Dinwiddie, Lieut., 258

Dirty Devil Mountains, _see_ Unknown Mountains

Dirty Devil (Frémont) River, viii.;
point of junction with Colorado, 3;
failure to get to it overland, 70, 99;
arrive at mouth by river, 133;
overland trip to, 195;
on head of, according to Dodds, 199;
mistake discovered, 199, 200;
reach mouth of, overland, 209

Disaster Falls, 39;
dinner from wreckage of _No-name_, 40;
fall of river at, 42

Distance, from Union Pacific Railway to Gate of Lodore, 33;
to Echo Park, 48;
to junction of Green and Grand, 114;
to Dirty Devil, 135;
Paria to Little Colorado, 223;
Little Colorado to Kanab Canyon, 241;
Wonsits Valley to Gunnison Crossing, 93.
_See also_ Appendix, _Romance of the Colorado River_

Dixie, name for Virgin Valley, 164

Dodds, Captain Pardyn, fails to reach Dirty Devil River, 70;
meet him at El Vado, 143

Dog, Dandie Dinmont, of Mrs. Thompson, 166, 195

Douglas Boy, first meeting with, 64;
comes to mouth of Uinta, 70;
an eloper, 71;
farewell to, 76

Dummy and his prophecy, 9

Dunn, William H., vi.;
name carved in Music Temple, 141;
killed by Shewits, 141, 259

Dunn's Cliff, 43

Dutch oven, 4

Dutton, Major, vii.

E

Echo, Cliff, 49;
Park, 49;
Rock, 53;
Peaks, how named, 151

Eight Mile Spring, camp at, 165

El Vado de los Padres (Crossing of the Fathers), 7, 8, 41, 95, 96;
first white man to ford after Escalante, 96;
arrive at, 1871, 143;
description of, 168;
arrive at, 1872, 210;
early known by Richard Campbell, 96

Emma, Sister, a wife of John D. Lee, 211

Endowment garment, Adams wears one, 259

Epizoötic visits Utah, 262

Escalante, his crossing of the Colorado, 7;
Sierra, 43;
of Green River, 67;
his name for Green River, 67;
for White River, 67;
River, 210;
river named by Professor Thompson, 210

F

Failure Creek, 129

Fennemore, joins party, 187;
falls sick, 212;
leaves party, 216;
in Salt Lake, 267

Field, 5;
arm-chair obtained from, 8;
breakfast at, 9

Flaming Gorge, 1, 2;
height of walls, 17;
Green River enters, 17;
accessibility, 20;
gateway to the series of canyons, 22

Frank, _see_ Richardson

Frank, Pai Ute, _see_ Chuarooumpeak

Frémont, River, 3;
_see_ Dirty Devil;
General, 95;

First Granite Gorge of the Grand Canyon, declivity in, 43

First Powell Expedition, v.;
plat of river by, vi., 2, 96;
boats of, x.

Food supply exhausted, 141

Fort Davy Crockett, 30

Fort Defiance, Jacob Hamblin goes there, 143

Fort Pierce, 188

Fort Robideau, 67;
only house on the river, 72

Fretwater Falls, 83

Fuzz, Mrs. Thompson's dog, 166, 195

G

Gate of Lodore, 32

Gentile frontier town compared with Mormon, 174

Gila monster, 245

Gilbert, G. K., vii., 136

Glen Canyon, beginning, 137;
width of river in, 139;
height of walls, 139-143;
end of, 151

Glencove, attempt to reach Dirty Devil River from, 99

Glendale, Mormon settlement, 262

Goblin City, journey to, 68;
description of, 69

Gold, found on Colorado, 144;
at mouth of Kanab, 174;
miners go after, 185

Golden to Provo, waggon road, 67

Gosi-Utes, Gunnison killed by, 95

Gould's ranch, 190

Grand Canyon, Jacob Hamblin circumtours it, 96;
Powell finds way in to the mouth of the Kanab, 174;
Dodds and Jones get to it, 188;
Whitmore describes a crossing, 188;
Dodds and Johnson reach river, 189;
Dodds and Dellenbaugh go to river at Lava Falls, 192;
Marble division begins, 216;
length of, including Marble Canyon, 217;
beginning of, 223;
enter it, 223

Grand River, 109

Grand Wash, 96;
altitude of, 217

Granite, the, runs up, 225

Grant, news of election of, 256

Graves, ancient, discovered, 77

Gray Canyon, enter it, 91;
colour, height, and character of walls, 91, 92;
end of, 93;
length of, 93

Gray Cliffs, 164

Great Basin, 164

Green River, points on, astronomically fixed before Powell, 19, 95

Green River City, arrive there, 3;
described, 5;
settlements below, 8

Green River Suck, 20

Green River Valley, 1, 2

Grizzly bears, 26

Gunnison, Captain, crossed Green River, 95;
killed, 95

Gunnison Butte, 93, 99

Gunnison Crossing, Powell plans to rejoin his party there, 70

Gypsum Canyon, 127

H

Habasu (Havasu), 96

Haight, 153, 157

Hamblin, Frank, 254

Hamblin, Fred, 99

Hamblin, Jacob, scout and pioneer, 96;
first after Escalante to cross at El Vado, 96;
circumtours the Marble and Grand canyons, 96;
arrives at Paria, 153;
treaty with Navajos, 168;
title of his book, 169;
Indian engagements, 170;
goes to Mt. Trumbull with Powell, 170;
wives of, 174;
hears plot to ambush, 243

Hamblin, Joseph, 156, 241

Hamblin, Lyman, 99

Hanson, name assumed by J. H. Beadle, 215

Harrell brothers, camp in Brown's Park, 30

Hastele, Navajo chief, 169

Hattan, Andrew, 4;
place in boat, 11;
his call to meals, 11;
departure, 260

Headquarters, winter, of, 1872-73, 260

Hell's Half Mill, 44

Henry Mountains (Unknown Mts., _q. v._), 207

Henry's Fork, mouth of, 17;
astronomically fixed, 95

Henry, Professor Joseph, vi.

Henry (Azure) Cliffs, 99

Hidden Lakes, the, 201

High Plateaus of Utah, continuation of Wasatch Range, 95;
end of, 164

Hillers, John K., joins party, 7;
catches fish, 15;
songs of, 52, 74;
catches salmon, 98;
photographer, 217;
hurts his back, 225;
trip to Moki towns, 248

Hog-backs, topographical feature described, 198

Hook, Theodore, drowned, 25;
grave of, 25

Horse discovered, 90

Horse sense, 258, 264

Horseshoe Canyon, why so called, 21

Hotel Tovar, 232

House ruins, Shinumo, 112, 137, 138

House Rock Spring, 157, 160

House Rock Valley, 160, 175

Howland, Seneca, and O. G., 141

Howlands and Dunn, vi., vii.;
why killed by Shewits, 171;
left first party, 242;
killed near Mt. Dellenbaugh, 259

Hurricane Hill, 190

Hurricane Ledge, 190

I

Illustrations in Powell's _Report_, x.

Innupin, definition of, 252

Innupin Picavu (Water-pocket), 251

Island Park, 56

Ives, comes up Colorado, 1858, 2;
reconnoitres south of Grand Canyon, 96;
names North Side Mountains, 186

J

Jack, _see_ Hillers

Jacob, _see_ Hamblin

Jacob's Pools, 159

Johnson, Will, 186;
leaves party, 211

Johnson's, Mormon settlement 166

Jones, S. V., 10;
place in boat, 11;
falls ill, 152;
leaves, 260

Julien, D., inscriptions by, 108, 113, 118

Junction, the, of the Grand and Green, 113;
summit at, 116;
trail to, 118

K

Kaibab (Buckskin Mountain), seen from Echo Peaks, 150;
band of Pai Utes, 177;
trip to south-west corner of, 182;
Point F established on, 184;
seen from Marble Canyon, 222

Kanab, settlement of, 8;
headquarters, 145;
headquarters, winter of 1872-73, 260;
description of, 166;
base line near, 173;
Christmas dance, 173

Kanab Canyon, journey up, 185, 244;
supplies to be brought in there, 224

Kapurats, Pai Ute name for Major Powell, 171

Kettle Creek, 24

Killiloo, refrain, 75, 81, 226, 267

Kingfisher Canyon, 22;
why so called, 22

Kingfisher Creek, 21

Kit Carson, 95

Koneco, Navajo chief, 154

L

Labyrinth Canyon, enter it, 105;
end of, 110;
length of, 110

La Sal, Sierra, 103, 109, 127

Latter-Day Saints, 212

Lava Falls, Dodds and Dellenbaugh climb to river there, 192

Leaping Brook, 46

Lee, John Doyle, 195;
settles at Paria, 210;
meet him, 210;
wife Rachel, 210;
wife Emma (his XVIII.), 210;
called Naguts, 211;
executed, 211

Lee Ferry, 215

Lehi, Mormon town, 262, 266

Let-down, 26;
method of accomplishing a, 90

Letters from Clement Powell to the Chicago _Tribune_, v.;
from F. S. Dellenbaugh to the Buffalo _Express_, vii.

Life preservers, 8;
indispensable, 237

Light, the controversy of the, 63

Lighthouse Rock, 80

Lignite Canyon, 91

Line portage, 26

Little Brown's Hole, 29;
name changed to Red Canyon Park, 29

Little Canyon, 31

Little Colorado, canyon of, forms division between Marble and
Grand Canyons, 217;
mouth of, 222;
altitude of mouth, 223

Little White, or Price River, 92

Little Zion Valley, 190

Lodore Canyon, party goes through on the ice, 2;
gate of, 32;
why so called, 32;
we enter it, 34;
width of river in, 35, 42, 43;
velocity of current in, 35, 42;
sunlight in, 36;
wreckage found in, 41;
height of walls, 42, 43, 46;
character of 42;
declivity in, 43;
end of, 48;
length of, 48

Logan, Mt., 188

Log-cabin Cliff, 84

Lonely Dell, 211

Long Valley, route _via_, 262

Lost Creek (Crescent Creek), 209

Louisa, a wife of Jacob Hamblin, 174, 195, 250

Lower Disaster Falls, 42

M

MacEntee, 166;
leaves party, 179;
in Salt Lake, 267

Mackenzie, General, ix.,
map A, facing page 95

Macomb, 95

"Major, The" viii., _see_ Powell, John Wesley

Mangum, Joseph, 153;
the lost guide, 155, 157

Manti, Mormon settlement, 99, 174

Map, accuracy of plat of Colorado River, vi., vii., 243;
sheets giving Colorado River, viii.;
preliminary, finished, 262;
sent to Washington, 267

Marble Canyon, 150;
miners wrecked in, 195, 217;
enter it, 216;
total length with Grand Canyon, 217;
height of walls, 216, 217-222;
end of 222;
descent in, 223;
number of rapids in, 223

Markargunt Plateau, 191

Meek, Joseph, goes through Lodore on the ice, 95

Melvin Falls, 86

Millecrag Bend, 129, 132

Moki (Hopi) ruin, 79

Monument built 1869 by Powell, 78

Mookoontoweap or Little Zion Valley, 190

Mormon, settlements, 96;
method of pioneering, 167, 174;
dance, 173

Mt. Carmel, Mormon settlement, 262

Mount Dellenbaugh, named, 254;
altitude, 259;
Shinumo remains on, 259

Mount Ellen, Henry Mountains, 208

Mount Hillers, Henry Mountains, 208

Mount Logan, 188, 253

Mount Nebo, 266

Mount Pennell, Henry Mountains, 207, 208

Mount Seneca Howland (Navajo Mt.), 141

Mountain Meadows massacre, 195;
Lee's version, 211

Music Temple, grotto, 141, 210

N

Narrow Canyon, 3, 133

Natural arches in Canyon of Desolation, 87, 88

Navajos, agency, 143;
meet with, 146;
afraid of our boats, 153;
dance with, 154;
ceremonial, 177

Navajo Creek, 149

Navajo Mountain, 139, 141, 201

Navajo Well, 175, 248

Nephi, 266

New Year's Day, 1872, 174;
1873, 260

_No-name_, boat, wreck of, 38

North Side Mountains (Uinkaret Mts.), 186

O

Oak Spring, 187, 188, 191

Old Jacob, _see_ Jacob Hamblin

Old Spanish Trail, 95, 246

Oonupits, sound made by, 252;
described, 252;
Indian shoots at, 252

Orange Cliffs, 110

Order of going, 11, 72, 136, 215

Overland Stage Co. road, Salt Lake to Denver _via_ Provo,
Robideau Crossing, and Golden, 67

P

Paantung, Thompson's Shewits guide, 259

Painted Desert, 150

Pai Ute women, Jacob Hamblin, scaled to, 174;
language without an "F," 250;
name for Major Powell, 250;
name for Professor Thompson, 250;
name for Dellenbaugh, 250;
George, Waytoots, Chuar, 250;
_see also_ Chuarooumpeak;
method of cooking rabbits, 252

Pai Utes, despised by Navajos, 170;
Kaibab band of, 177;
wickiups, 177;
arms, 178;
rabbit skin robe, 178;
fire obtained by drill, 178;
ceremonial, 178;
songs, 178, 179;
stone arrowhead making, 178

Panguitch, arrive at, 265

Paria, 95, 151, 197;
up cliffs at, 155;
settlement, 166

Parowan, 248

Patnish, chief of renegades, 8, 167, 250

Photographic outfit, 6, 58

Pictographs, 61

Pierce, Fort, 188, 191

Pine Valley Mountains, 189, 190

Pink Cliffs, 164

Pipe Spring, 185;
Wash, 185

Plateau Province, the, 109

Point F, 184

Portage, line, 26;
method of making, 40

Potato Valley, 199

Powell, Clement, letters from to Chicago _Tribune_, v.;
place in boat, 11;
duties of, 11;
leaves party, 259

Powell, Emma Dean (Mrs. J. W.), 7;
and infant daughter, 165;
in Middle Park, 172;
leaves for Washington, 179

Powell, John Wesley (The Major), the conqueror of the Colorado, 2;
title in Volunteer Army, 2;
first descent of Colorado; v., 3, 96,
no right arm, 8;
titles of reports, v., vi.,
position in boat, 11;
duty of, 11;
goes up Yampa, 50;
on Yampa River 1868, 50;
goes ahead to Uinta, 56;
to Salt Lake, 67, 70, 99, 144, 179, 259, 266;
songs of, 73;
rejoins party, 98;
fails to reach Dirty Devil overland, 99;
leaves for Washington, 179, 259;
reports through Smithsonian Institution, vi.;
runs course of river, vii;
buried at Arlington, 267

Price River, 92

"Prof.," viii.,
_see_ Thompson, A. H.

Provo to Golden, waggon road, 67

_Putnam's Magazine_, copy found, 43

R

Rabbits, Pai Ute method of cooking, 252

Rain cascades, 105, 106, 132

Rapid, the first, 21;
method of running, 35, 36;
tails of, 36;
eddys at, 36;
Catastrophe, vi., 242, 243

Rations, 4, 111, 119

Red Canyon, 2;
entrance of, 22;
upset of _Nellie Powell_ in, 23;
width of river in, 24;
speed of current, 24;
height of cliffs, 24, 28;
end of, 30

Red Canyon Park, 29

Red Cliff, 176

Red Lake Utes, Jacob pacifies them, 170;
meet with band of, 204

Regiment marches from Salt Lake to Denver, 68

Renshawe, John, joins party, 259

Richardson, Frank C. A., 10;
position in boats, 11;
skill in dressing deer, 16;
leaves party, 31

Riggs, 157

Riggs, Charley, 248

Riley, George, 143;
head of pack train, 156;
cook, 260

Rio, San Buenaventura, 67;
San Clemente, 67;
San Rafael, 95, 103;
San Juan, 140, 210

Robideau, crossing of Green River, 67;
Fort, 67

Rocking stones in current, 127

Roundy, Lorenzo W., 153

Rudder useless on the Colorado, x.

S

Sag, the, at Disaster Falls, 38

St. George, Mormon settlement, 194

Salmon, white, caught, 98

Salt Lake City, 7, 17;
the major goes to, 67, 70, 99, 144, 179, 259, 266

Salt Lake to Denver, waggon road, _via_ Provo and Golden, 67

San Clemente, Rio, Escalante's name for White River, 67

San Francisco Mts., seen from Mt. Trumbull, 187;
from Echo Peaks, 250

San Juan River, mouth of, 140;
pass it, 1872, 210

San Rafael River, 95;
arrive at, 103

Santa Fé and Los Angeles trail, 94

Santa Fé Railway to the Grand Canyon, x.

Scorpions, 132

Second Powell expedition, the, vi., 3;
material used for report on first expedition, vi.;
supplies of, 4;
method of sacking rations, 6;
ready to start, 8;
personnel of, 11

Selden, 95

Sentinel Rock and Sentinel Creek, 149

Sevier Canyon, 266

Sharp Mountain Falls, 91

Shewits, killed Powell's men, vii., 96;
territory of, 186;
afraid of us, 191;
plan to ambush us, 243;
meet us, 253;
conference and agreement, 253;
Thompson's guide, 259

Shinumo, the, 112, 149;
trail, 113, 145;
caves, 132;
Canyon, 184;
ruin on Mt. Dellenbaugh, 259

Shower Bath Spring, 245

Shunesburg, Powell descends Virgin River to, 248

Sierra, Escalante, 43;
La Lal, 103;
Abajo, 127

Simpson, Captain, 95

Sinav-to-weap, 117

Sister Emma, 211

Sister Louisa, 174

Smithsonian Institution, Powell reported through, vi.

Snowblind, 266

Soap Creek, 159;
Frank M. Brown, drowned near mouth of, 159, 217;
Rapid, 217

"Sockdologer, of the World," 222;
rapid, 226

Songs of the camp, 73, 74

Sorghum molasses, 172

Spanish Fork, 266

Spanish Trail, Old, 95

Split Mountain Canyon, 57;
enter it, 58;
end of, 60;
length of, 60

Springs in river bottom, 103

Stanton, R. B., proves the White story incorrect, v.;
completed Brown expedition, ix.;
Canyon Railway project, x

Steward, John F., place in boat, 11;
duty of, 11;
on a raft, 16;
discovers gigantic fossil, 20;
determines nature of Unknown Mts., 136;
ill, 146;
recovers, 152;
leaves party, 160

Stewart, Bishop, of Kanab, 167;
saw-mill of, on Kaibab, 181

Stewart, John, goes with Powell to Grand Canyon, 172;
returns with news of gold find, 174

Stillwater Canyon, beginning of, 110;
nature of walls, 111, 113;
house ruins in, 112;
width, 113;
end of, 113;
length, 114

Summit Valley, 164

Sumner Amphitheatre, 79

Sumner, Jack, 7

Supplies, nature of, 4;
to be brought in at three places, 7

Surprise Valley, 241

Swallow Canyon, 31

Swallow Park, 197

T

Table Mountain, 198

Tapeats Creek, 240

Tavaputs Plateau, 80

Teemaroomtekai, Uinkaret chief, 253

Teram Picavu, 254

Thompson, Professor Alvin Harris, vi., vii., ix., 7;
place in boat, 11;
duty of, 11;
first white man to explore Shewits country, 254;
to climb Mt. Dellenbaugh, 259;
buried at Arlington, 267

Thompson, Mrs. Ellen Powell, 7, 165, 166, 172, 181, 195, 216, 259

Tiravu Picavu, 254

Tirtaan Aigles, slogan, 75, 267

Tokerville, Mormon settlement, 190

Tom, Pai Ute guide, 197;
leaves party, 199

Toroweap Valley, 192

Trachyte Creek, 208

Trail up cliffs of Paria, 155

_Tribune_, Chicago, letters to, from Clement Powell, v.

Trin Alcove, 107

Triplet Falls, 43

Trumbull, Mt., why so called, 186;
climbed, 187, 192;
height of, 187

Trumbull, Senator, 186

Tuba, a Moki (Hopi), goes home with Jacob, 169;
ceremony on crossing Colorado River, 169

U

Uinkaret, Indians, 186;
region, 186;
plateau, 190;
chief, 253

Uinta, Indian Agency, 7, 8, 71

Uinta Mountains, 1;
first view of from river, 15

Uinta River, pass mouth of, 76;
arrival at, 66;
Powell goes ahead to, 56;
mouth astronomically determined, 95

Uinta Utes, 61

Undine Springs, 103

Union Pacific Railway, crossing of Green River, 3;
_see_ Descent _and_ Distance

Unknown country, the, 95, 96, 199, 200, 201, 202

Unknown Mountains (Henry Mts.) viii., 104, 127, 133;
Steward determines nature of, 136;
position of Dirty Devil (Frémont) River with reference to, 199;
arrive at, 207;
map of, 207

Untokarowits, Pai Ute name for F. S. Dellenbaugh, 250

Utah Southern Railway finished to Lehi, 262

Utah, from, into Colorado, 31

Utes of Wonsits Valley, Uinta and White River, 61

Ute Crossing of Colorado in Uinkaret region, 188

Ute Ford, the (El Vado de los Padres), 148

Ute law as applied to capture, 71

V

Van Buren, Gentile settler on the Sevier, 266

Vasey's Paradise, 219

Vermilion Cliffs, 158, 164;
length of, 164

Vermilion River, 31

Virgin Mountains, 194

Virgin River, canyon of, explored down to Shunesburg, 248;
Little Zion or Mookoontoweap Valley of, 190

Volunteers march from Salt Lake to Denver, 68

Voyage, Canyon, the end of, 242

W

Walcott, Professor, vii.

Walker House, Salt Lake City, 267

Wasatch Cliffs, 200

Wheeler, Lieut. George M., goes up Colorado to Diamond Creek, 145

Whirlpool Canyon, 53;
end of, 55;
descent in, 56

Whirlpools described, 239

Whiskey not taken, 6

White, James, 2;
story of his trip through canyons disproved, v.

White River, 66;
journey down, 69;
pass mouth, 76

White River Utes, 61

Whitmore, Dr., killed by Navajos, 169;
ranch, 188

Wild Band Pocket, 251

Winnie's Grotto, 35

Winsor, of Pipe Spring, 185;
Castle, 185

Winter quarters, 1872-73, 260

Witch Water-pocket (Innupin Picavu), 251

Wolfskill, William, pioneer, 94

Wolves, 161, 162, 165

Wonsits Tiravu, 254

Wonsits Valley, 60

Woonoopits, _see_ Oonupits

Workman's Ranch, 190

Wreckage found in Lodore, 41

Wyoming, from, into Utah, 16

Y

Yampa River, 48, 49;
Powell on it in 1868, 50;
goes up, in boat, 50

Young, Brigham, 170, 185;
Alfred, 187

----------------------------------------------------------------- | Transcriber's Notes: | | | | The original contained inconsistencies in spelling and | | hypenation. The following variations were retained: | | | | air-line airline | | arm-chair armchair | | arrow-heads arrowheads | | ball-room ballroom | | bow-knot bowknot | | near-by nearby | | row-lock rowlock | | sand-bank sandbank | | school-house schoolhouse | | ship-shape shipshape | | south-westerly southwesterly | | up-stream upstream | | Clarkson Clarkston | | Frémont Fremont | | Konéco Koneco | | De Motte DeMotte | | | | The following typographical errors in the original were | | corrected: | | | | Pg 62: "eaving" to "leaving" | | ("leaving us hardly a rock") | | | | Pg 175: "bame" to "came" | | ("came to the edge") | | | | Pg 198: added "of" | | ("like the roof of a house") | | | | Pg 220: "bat-battened" to "battened" | | ("hatches firmly battened") | | | | Pg 229: "dashig" to "dashing" | | ("water was dashing") | | | | Pg 250: "prononnced" to "pronounced" | | ("in their language pronounced") | | | | Pg 273: "Canyon" to "Kanab Canyon" | | ("Kanab Canyon, Journey up") | | | -----------------------------------------------------------------

End of Project Gutenberg's A Canyon Voyage, by Frederick S. Dellenbaugh