Chapter I: Preface

This book does not pretend to be a history or a complete record of Galicia. Its purpose is to show something of the life and character of a little-known part of Spain, and to deal with things seen and done by the visitor who travels under competent and comfortable guidance. I have written either of what I experienced or on the authority of prominent residents with whom I came in contact in my wanderings.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION Pp. 1-21

CHAPTER I
GALICIA AND ITS PEOPLE

The Real Galicia : The Hundred Maidens : The Glory of the North-West :
Granite Hills : Gallegans and their Lives : Pigeon-cots and
Maize-barns : The Night-watchman's Chant : Civil Guards and
Constables : A Modest Breakfast : Eating and drinking : The Waiter as
a Gentleman : Enterprise and Open-air Life : The Blessed "To-morrow" :
Cigarettes : The Unexpected : Photography : Wine and a Bibber :
Across the Biscay Pp. 23-47

CHAPTER II
VIGO BAY AND HILLS

Sun-bound : Sharp Contrasts : Devil-fish and Ink-fish : Sardines : A
Spanish Infant : Vigo's Enterprise : The Lazaretto : Treasure-ships :
A Grandee's Home : A Fishing-town : _Memento mori_ : Handling Catches :
Clubs and Warships : A Russian Funeral : Emigrants : A Valley Town :
The Press and a Distributor : Borrow's Vigo Pp. 49-67

CHAPTER III
SPAIN'S JERUSALEM

Galicia's Patron Saint : Pilgrims and Pestilence : A Holy City :
A Monumental History : Noisy Students : The Fascination of the
Cathedral : Precious Relics : A Wealth of Silver : The _Compostela_ :
St. James's Sepulchre : The Gate of Glory : The Mighty Censer :
Religious Festivals : Our Lady of the Rosary : St. James's Day
Festivities : The Way of Blood and Tears : Mediæval Night : From
Pilgrims' Hill Pp. 69-96

CHAPTER IV
THINGS SEEN

More Contrasts : Bewildering Baedeker : A Galician Vineyard : Sabbath
Peace : Wayside Inns : Security of Travel : Brawny Brigands : A
Sonorous Tongue Pp. 97-108

CHAPTER V
THE ATLANTIC COAST AND THE FRONTIER

Romantic Scenery : A Blighted Town : British Enterprise : The
Napoleonic Wars : A Quaint Old Place : Galicia's Fjords : A
Remarkable Lighthouse : Down to Portugal : Friendly Sentries : The
Glories of the Miño : Orense and its Famous Bridge Pp. 109-124

CHAPTER VI
LOCOMOTION

The Diligence : Railways : Galicia's Rolling-stock : The Solemnity
of Journeying by Train : Motor-cars and Motor-buses : Beauty in the
Saddle : Shocks in Travelling : "Drummers" of the North-West : Cycles
and a Freak Pp. 125-139

CHAPTER VII
MONDARIZ

An Alluring Hotel : Beneficent Waters : A Noble Building : Pine
Hills and Trout-streams : A Splendid Pump-room : The Logan of Arcos :
Sobroso's Ruins : Creaking Bullock-carts : Peaceful Prospects
Pp. 141-151

CHAPTER VIII
GALICIA'S BURDEN-BEARERS

The Woman with the Coffin : Women and Weights : Wages and Rent : My
Pretty Maid : Hairdressing : Universal Washing : A Galician Funeral
Pp. 153-163

CHAPTER IX
AROSA BAY AND LA TOJA

A Favourite Anchorage for British Warships : Roman Remains :
Religious Prisoners : Cortegada and the King of Spain : An
Attractive Workhouse : Borrow and the Bible : An Arcaded Town :
Columbus and his Ships : The Haunt of the Wolf : The Island of La
Toja : A Wonderful Cure : Golf Pp. 165-177