Chapter III: Part 3
At the bottom of Digbeth, about forty yards from Deritend Bridge, there is on the left a water course that receives a small drain from Digbeth, and also from the adjacent lands; which stream separates the parishes of Aston and Birmingham, and is known by the name of John-a-Dean's hole, from a person of that name who is said to have lost his life there.
_Baths, near Lady Well,_
Are always ready for the accommodation of hot or cold bathing, and also for immersion or amusement, together with sudorific apartments. The swimming bath is in length thirty-six yards, and in breadth eighteen yards, containing more than 2000 hogsheads of spring water, and gradually slopes from the depth of one to five feet; being situated in the centre of a garden, wherein are twenty-four apartments to undress and dress in; the whole being surrounded by a wall, ten feet high, and fine lofty trees. There are also very decent baths in Newtown-row, near Lancaster-street.
_Houses_.
By an accurate survey, taken in the year 1810, it appears that there were then 9196 front houses, and 8214 back houses, within the connected streets of Birmingham, which, reckoning five and a half to a house, makes the population 97,405. There appears to be about 400 houses erected annually, which will make the number at the present time 18510, and the population 101,805.
The old Roman road, denominated Ikenield-street, that extends from Southampton to Tyremouth, enters this parish near the observatory in Ladywood-lane, crosses the road to Dudley at the Sand Pits, and proceeding along Warstone-lane, leaves the parish in Hockley-brook; but is distinctly to be seen at the distance of five miles, both in Sutton park and on the Coldfield, in perfect repair, as when the Romans left it.
_The Parsonage House_
Of St. Martin, situated near Smallbrook-street, is in all probability one of the most ancient entire buildings in this part of the country; it being a low, half-timbered erection, surrounded by a moat; in front of which is, what was the tythe barn, being near sixty yards in length, now made use of as warehouses.
By late regulations in the post office, an innovation has crept in that is highly reprehensible, and ought not to be continued. Before mail coaches were established, Coleshill was a place of considerably more note then, as a post town, than Birmingham, it being very common for people in the north to direct their letters for Birmingham, to turn at Coleshill. This being the case, if the directors of the post office think proper to change the route for their own convenience, that is no reason why the public should be charged with the expense. Dudley and Coleshill being both of them the same distance from Birmingham, what reason can be assigned why a letter to Dudley should be four-pence and to Coleshill six-pence?
The country for a few miles round the town is in every direction studded with houses, belonging to the opulent inhabitants of Birmingham, or of those who have retired from the busy scenes of life.
Whoever walks much about this town, will perceive one very remarkable circumstance: at the top of a street you ascend into the houses by a flight of steps, and in the lower part of the same street, you descend into some of the houses; this is exemplified in Edmund-street, and particularly in Newhall-street and Lionel-street.
There are two fairs in the year, one of them is held on Thursday in the Whitsun week, and the other on the last Thursday in September: the horses being exposed for sale in Bristol-street; the neat cattle, sheep, and pigs in Smithfield.
The established market is on Thursday, but the town being so populous, there is a very good market both on Monday and Saturday. Hay and straw are exposed for sale every Tuesday, in Smithfield.
_Jackson's Trust._
George Jackson, of Birmingham, mercer, gave certain premises, in Deritend, for placing out two apprentices, annually; present rent, six pounds per annum.
Some years back, the church of St. Martin being under repair, the workmen discovered that the four pinnacles, (one at each corner of the tower), were very much decayed, upon which, the powers at that time in authority concluded, that they should be re-constructed, and to make a finish, fixed a vane upon each of them, without considering, that, the steeple being in the centre, it was not possible for the wind invariably to act upon all alike; consequently, any other termination would have been more appropriate.
In the jurisprudence of this town, there is one remarkable circumstance; the chief constable of Hemlingford hundred, wherein Birmingham is situated, is of course superior to the two constables of this town; yet they, by virtue of their office, preside over the common prison, and of course the appointment of prison-keeper is vested in them; but, strange to relate, the chief constable of the hundred is keeper of the prison, in Birmingham: consequently, although he is their superior, he is at the same time subservient to them.
_Private Carriages_.
Within this town and its immediate vicinity there are more than fifty carriages, of different descriptions, on four wheels, and upwards of three hundred on two wheels, that pay the duty.
The number of hackney coaches that ply in the streets is twelve, under the following regulated fares.
_Hackney Coach Fares._
Under one mile .................. 1 6
1 mile and under 1-1/2 .......... 2 0
1-1/2 mile and under 2 .......... 3 0
2 miles and under 2-1/2 ......... 4 0
2-1/2 miles and under 3 ......... 5 0
3 miles and under 3-1/2 ......... 6 0
3-1/2 miles and under 4 ......... 7 0
An extra half fare if carrying more than four persons.
_Time_.
For every forty minutes, one shilling, and for every twenty minutes afterwards, six-pence in addition. If employed, or kept in waiting, betwixt the hours of twelve o'clock at night and five o'clock in the morning, double the above fares are allowed.
The late Mr. Baskerville, whose printed works are in such high estimation, both for paper and print, resided at a place called Easy Hill, at that time quite distant from the town; the house being encircled by an extensive paddock. At this place he erected a mill for the making of paper, in which article he excelled all his contemporaries, as he also did in the formation of his types, which, to the disgrace of this country, were permitted to be sold into France. This once delightful spot is now surrounded with buildings, the house wherein he resided is converted into a manufactory, and the land into wharfs.
About twenty yards above the statue in honour of Lord Nelson, there was within memory the market cross, from whence the roads in every direction were measured; but from some cause or other, that custom has been altered, and it is difficult to say from what part of the town some of the roads are now measured; for example, the road to Walsall. This road having been considerably shortened and improved, is now considered to be eight miles distant: (it was some years back, ten miles); but from the centre of one town to that of the other, will measure nine miles; and whoever travels that road must very justly pay for that distance.
The road to Stourbridge and Kidderminster is another instance where the mile stones are not to be depended upon; for the one mile stone on that road is considerably more than that distance from the centre of the town.
The horse roads round this town were, within memory, from the rains, constant wear, and no repair, worn into such hollow ways, that in some instances, particularly in Bordesley, a waggon, when loaded with hay, the top of it was not so high as the foot path on the side: it was at one time fifty-eight feet below the surface. There are still remaining two specimens of the old roads, but they have been for many years useless, except in going to the adjacent grounds. One of them is situated a little beyond the sign of the Bell, on the right hand side of the Worcester road, and leads towards the Five Ways. The other begins at Edgbaston church, and continues till you arrive at the toll-gate, on the Bromsgrove road; but, thanks to the trustees of the turnpikes, the roads in every direction are now upon a par with others, and in one respect surpass most of them throughout the kingdom, by having on the side of every one, a foot path, for the accommodation of pedestrians.
This town, not being restricted by any charter, strangers from whatever quarter they may come, here find an asylum, and pursue their avocations with as much freedom, and are no more subject to molestation, than a native inhabitant. Trade of every kind may be exercised here, and let a person's religious opinions be whatever they may, he is at liberty to exercise them; there being in this town eight places of public worship, according to the establishment, one for the society of friends, two for protestant dissenters, three for calvinists, two for Roman catholics, four for methodists, four for baptists, one for Swedenburgians, one for jews, and one for the followers of Lady Huntingdon.
The buildings in this town extend to the distance of near three miles in every direction, reckoning from the top of Camphill, and it was some years back, upon a certainty, the largest town in the kingdom. This was ascertained by actual measurement; for soon after Mr. Aikin published his history of Manchester, Mr. John Snape, a very accurate surveyor, drew a plan of this town, upon the same scale as Mr. Aikin's. Since that time, I cannot say which of the two towns have encreased the most; but, if Manchester has extended its buildings with more rapidity than Birmingham, it is a very extensive place.
Notwithstanding the extent of this town, there is very little distinction between it and a village; all the difference is, its fairs and market, for the smallest town has a constable to preside over it, and this, although so extensive and populous, is governed by two constables.
Although this town is of such considerable magnitude, and one of the principal thoroughfares between London and Dublin, there are no more than three places where the superior class of travellers can be accommodated with horses and carriages; the Royal Hotel, near St. Philip's church; the Swan Hotel, in High-street, and the Hen and Chickens Hotel, in New-street.
For the accommodation of the next class, there are the following taverns and inns: the Stork, in the Square; the Nelson, opposite the statue of his lordship, in the market-place; the Union, in Union-street; the Saracen's Head, in Bull-street; the George, and the Castle, in High-street; the Red Lion, the George, and the White Hart, in Digbeth; the Rose, in Edgbaston-street; and the, Woolpack, in Moor-street.
From the Nelson, the Swan, the Hen and Chickens, the Saracen's Head, the George, or the Castle, those who travel by public carriages may be conveyed to any part of the kingdom. The principal avenue leading to and from this town is Great Hampton-street, which, as its name imports, is on the road to Wolverhampton, but it is also the road to Walsall and likewise to Dudley. In this capacious road several streets concentrate, but I would recommend a stranger to proceed down Snowhill.
The next avenue, in point of importance, is Camphill, on the road to Stratford, where several streets and roads are united.
It is deserving of notice, that however large or small the houses are, the partition walls are uniformly brick and mortar, and with few exceptions, the floors of small houses are laid with quarries, which in a great degree accounts for there being so few fires of any consequence within this extensive town.
There is not any thing in this town, or its immediate vicinity, that can attract the attention of an antiquarian: it appears that there once was a castle, encircled by a moat, situated near the Icknield-street, or Warstone-lane; the foundation of which is still perceptible, and covered an area of twenty square perch; but the ground whereon it stood has been so frequently turned over, that it is only by the difference in the verdure that it can be discovered.
The present occupier of the land has at different times taken up about four thousand of the bricks, which were burnt very hard, and resembled those now in use, but were not so large.
About four miles distant there once stood Weoliegh castle, which was surrounded by a moat; but the site of the castle is now a garden, and not a vestige of the building remains, except a small part of the foundation, which may be discovered at the edge of the moat, that remaining entire.
Having concluded my observations respecting the public concerns of Birmingham, I cannot restrain myself from remarking, that there is at Warwick castle a most magnificent marble bacchanalian vase, of astonishing dimensions, it being seven feet in diameter and twenty-one in circumference, which is encircled on the outside with fruit, leaves, and branches of the vine, the latter being entwined so as to form two massive handles, with grotesque masks at the end of each; the whole being in exact proportion to the magnitude of the vase. This unique specimen of ancient sculpture was discovered in the baths of the Emperor Adrian, and presented by the Queen of Naples to Sir Wm. Hamilton, the British ambassador at that court, by whom it was forwarded as a present to the late Earl of Warwick; who, when it was unpacked, and he had taken a survey of it, immediately gave orders for the erection of a splendid green-house, wherein it is now deposited.
Mr. E. Thomason, of this town, who had been a pupil of the late Mr. Boulton, at Soho, no sooner saw this remarkable production of the fine arts, than he conceived the idea of forming one of the same magnitude in metal; and accordingly solicited permission to make models from it, which his lordship in the most condescending manner permitted him to do. Mr. Thomason without delay made preparations for the undertaking, and the metallic vase has been under the hands of different artists above four years, and is now nearly completed. This unique performance in metal, is in every respect a perfect resemblance of the original, and weighs several tons; the ground of it is bronzed, and at the present time highly relieved in light and shade; but I understand it will, when complete, be considerably more so, by two novel and distinct processes of oxydation, that will endure for ages.
This sumptuous metallic vase may be seen at Mr. Thomason's, who manufactures an endless variety of articles, for several of which he has obtained letters patent. The royal series of medals, and various others, are exclusively of his manufacture. Persons of rank who are curious may there see the art of chasing, or sculpturing in basso and alto relievo, together with various operations in the art of metallurgy.
Bankers Draw upon, Taylors and Lloyds, Dale End: Hanbury and Co.
Woolley, Moilliet, and Gordon, Cherry-street: Lubbock and Co.
Attwoods, Spooner, Goddington, and Co. New-street: Spooner and Co.
Smith, Gibbins, Smith, Gibbins, Goode, and Co. Union-street:
Esdaile and Co.
Freer, Rotton, Lloyd, and Co. New-street: Hanbury and Co.
Galtons and James, Steelhouse-lane: Barclay, Tritton, and Co.
* * * * *
_Post Office_,
UNDER THE SUPERINTENDANCE OF MISS GOTTWALTZ.
All letters intended to be forwarded by the same day's post, should be put into the box one hour before the time mentioned below.
_Sheffield Mail_
Every morning, at nine o'clock; which takes all letters for Lichfield, Tamworth, Atherstone, Uttoxeter, Rudgley, Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire, Gainsborough, Brigg, Barton, Kirton, Caister, Coltersworth, Grantham, Grimsby, Lincoln, Market Raisin, Sleaford, and Stamford, in Lincolnshire, Rutlandshire, Sheffield, Barnsley, Wakefield, Leeds, Halifax, Rotherham, Bradford, Huddersfield, Keighley, Otley, Doncaster, Ferry-bridge, Howden, Bawtry, and Selby, in Yorkshire.
_Manchester Mail_
Every morning, at half past nine o'clock; which takes all letters for Walsall, Willenhall, Wolverhampton, Stafford, Stone, and Newcastle, in Staffordshire, Cheshire (except Malpas), Lancashire, Scotland, Northumberland, Durham, Cumberland, Westmoreland, Yorkshire (except those places which go by the Sheffield mail), Conway, in Carnarvonshire, Flintshire (except Overton), Denbighshire (except Rhuabon, Wrexham, Llangollen, and Chirk), Woore and Market Drayton, in Shropshire.
_Walsall Mail_
Every day, at eleven in the forenoon; which takes all letters for that town and its delivery.
_Holyhead Mail_
Every day, at eleven in the forenoon; which takes all letters for West-bromwich, Wednesbury, Willenhall, Bilston, Wolverhampton, Shiffnall, and the intermediate places, Shrewsbury, Oswestry, Ellesmere, Whitchurch, Bridgnorth, Merioneth, and Montgomeryshire, Rhuabon, Wrexham, Llangollen and Chirk, in Denbighshire, Malpas, in Cheshire, and Overton, in Flintshire, Ireland (except the south-west part, which goes by way of Bristol), Anglesea, and Carnarvonshire (except Conway).
_Bewdley Mail_
Every day, at half past eleven o'clock; which takes all letters for Tipton, Dudley, Stourbridge, Kidderminster, Stourport, and places adjacent.
_Oxford Mail_
Every day, at ten minutes before three o'clock; which takes all letters for Henley-in-Arden, Stratford-upon-Avon, all Oxfordshire, Abingdon, Farringdon, Wallingford, Wantage, and Lambourn, in Berkshire, Cricklade, Swindon, Highworth, and Wootton Bassett, in Wiltshire, Bourton-on-the-Water, in Gloucestershire, Shipstone, in Worcestershire, High Wycombe and Beaconsfield, in Buckinghamshire, Uxbridge and Southall, in Middlesex.
_London Mail_
Every day, at four o'clock (except Saturday); which takes all letters for Coventry, Nuneaton, Coleshill, Rugby, Southam, Leamington, and Warwick, Northamptonshire, Buckinghamshire (except High Wycombe and Beaconsfield), Wooburn, Dunstable, Bedford, Silsoe, Leighton Buzzard, Tempsford, Potton, and Biggleswade, in Bedfordshire, St. Alban's, Berkhampstead, King's Langley, Tring, Watford, and Barnet, in Hertfordshire, Wokingham, in Berkshire, Arlesford, Gosport, Basingstoke, Fareham, Havant, and Petersfield, in Hampshire, Great Bedwin, in Wiltshire, Surrey, Kent, Suffolk, Essex, Sussex, Norfolk, Cambridgeshire, Huntingdonshire, Middlesex (except Uxbridge and Southall), which go by the Oxford mail.
_Bristol Mail_
Every day, at five o'clock in the afternoon; which takes all letters for the intermediate places: Worcestershire, (except Shipstone and those parts sent by the Bewdley mail), Stow, Bourton-on-the-Water, and Moreton-in-Marsh, in Gloucestershire, South Wales, Herefordshire and Monmouthshire, Ludlow and Bishop's Castle, in Shropshire, Reading, Hungerford, and Newbury, in Berkshire, Somersetshire, Wiltshire (except those parts which go by way of Oxford and London), Dorsetshire, Devonshire, Cornwall, south-west parts of Ireland, and Hampshire (except those places sent by way of London).
The various posts arriving so early in the day, the office is shut at eight in the evening.
Overcharges allowed from eight in the morning to half past ten in the forenoon, and from five to eight in the evening.
_Arrivals_,
Bristol, at eight in the morning. London, at twenty-five minutes past ten. Bewdley, at twelve at noon, Oxford, at one. Manchester, at two. Holyhead, at three. Sheffield, at a quarter past four. Walsall, at half past five.
This account of the post is corrected up to the 29th of May, 1819.
COACHES.
_From the Nelson Hotel, (late the Dog Inn.)_
Bridgnorth, the Union coach, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings, at nine o'clock. Dudley, the royal Defiance, every afternoon, at four.
Holyhead, the Union, a light post coach, every morning, at nine.
London, the Oxford royal mail, every afternoon, at three.
------, the Union, a light coach, through Oxford, every day, at half past twelve.
------, the original post coach, through Oxford, every evening, at a quarter past six.
------, a coach, every morning, a quarter before six, and arrives in London at nine in the evening.
Shrewsbury, the Union, a post coach, four insides, every morning, at nine.
Stourbridge, the royal Defiance, every afternoon, at four.
_From the Swan Hotel._
Bath, a light coach, through Worcester and Glocester, every morning (except Sunday), at six o'clock.
Bristol, the Hero, through Worcester, Glocester, &e. every morning (except Sunday), at half past six.
Cambridge, a coach through Coventry, Stamford, Stilton, &e. every morning, at eight.
------, the Rising Sun, through Coventry, Dunchurch, and Northampton, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday morning, at five.
Chester, the Prince of Orange light coach, through Wolverhampton, Shiffnal, Salop, Ellesmere, and Wrexham, every morning (except Monday), in twelve hours, at half past six.
Coventry, coaches every morning, at five and eight, and afternoon, at one, two, and four.
Dudley and Stourbridge, a coach every afternoon, at four.
Holyhead, the royal mail, through Wolverhampton, Shrewsbury, &c. every morning, at eleven.
------, the Prince of Wales, through Salop, every morning at ten, (passengers booked throughout.)
Kidderminster, a coach, every afternoon, at a quarter before four.
Leamington, a coach, through Knowle, every morning, at eight.
Leicester, the Alexander, through Coventry, every morning, at eight.
------, a coach, through Bedworth, Hinckley, &c. every day (except Sunday), at one.
Lichfield, the Cobourg, every afternoon, a quarter before four.
Liverpool, the Regulator, through Wolverhampton, Stafford, Stone, Stoke, Hanley, Burslem, Lawton, Sandbach, Middlewich, and Northwich, every morning, at six.
London, the royal mail, through Coventry, &c. every afternoon at four. ------, a light day coach, carrying four insides and ten out, every morning, at four, in fifteen hours.
London, the Royal Balloon, four insides, every afternoon (except Sunday), at a quarter before three, and on Sunday at one.
Manchester, the royal mail, the same as from the Hen and Chickens.
------, the Eclipse, through Wolverhampton, Stafford, &c. every morning, at seven.
Nottingham, the royal mail, the same as from the Hen and Chickens.
------, a coach, through Derby, every morning, at seven.
Oxford, a light coach, every morning (except Sunday), at eight.
Sheffield, the royal mail, the same as from the Hen and Chickens.
------, the Blucher post coach, through Lichfield, Uttoxeter, &c. every Saturday, Tuesday, and Thursday morning, at six.
------, the royal Telegraph, through Lichfield, Burton, Derby, &c. every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday morning, at seven.
Shrewsbury, the Prince of Wales, every morning, at eleven.
------, the royal mail, every morning, at eleven.
Stourbridge and Kidderminster, every morning, at half past seven.
Warwick, a coach, through Knowle, every morning, at eight.
Worcester, the True Blue, through Bromsgrove, every afternoon, at three.
_From the Hen and Chickens,_
Bath, a light post coach, every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday morning, at six.
Bristol, the royal mail, every evening, at five.
Cambridge, the royal pilot post coach, through Coventry, Leicester, &c. every day, at half past twelve, except Sunday.
Cheltenham, the royal post coach, through Bromsgrove, Worcester, &c. to the Plough Hotel, every morning, at eight.
Holyhead, the Prince of Wales post coach, through Shrewsbury, &c. every morning, at ten.
Lichfield, a coach, four times every day.
London, the Prince of Wales post coach, through Oxford, Henley-on-Thames, &c. to the George and Blue Boar, Holborn.
Manchester, the royal mail, every morning, at a quarter past ten.
------, the Express post coach, through Uttoxeter, Leek, Macclesfield, &c. to the Moseley Arms Inn, in twelve hours, certain, every morning, at eight.
Nottingham, the royal mail, every morning, at a quarter past nine.
Oxford, the post coach, through Henley, every evening, at six. Sheffield, the royal mail, every morning, at a quarter past nine.
------, the royal Telegraph coach, through Lichfield, Derby, &c. every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday morning, at seven.
------, the royal Telegraph, through Lichfield, Uttoxeter Ashbourne, and Bakewell, every Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday morning, at six.
Wolverhampton, a coach, four times every day.
Worcester, the new True Blue post coach, every afternoon, at three.
------, the royal Defiance post coach, every morning, at eight, and returns in the evening.
------, a coach, four times every day.
_From the Castle and Saracen's Head Inns._
Aberystwith and Barmouth, a coach, every Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday morning, at eleven.
Alcester, a coach, every morning, at eight.
Banbury, the Regulator, through Warwick and Leamington, every morning, at eight.
Bath, the Star coach, through Evesham, Cheltenham, &c. every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday morning, at half past six.
Bilstone, coaches six times a day.
Bridgnorth, a coach, through Wolverhampton, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday morning, at eleven.
Bristol, the Duke of Wellington, through Bromsgrove, Worcester, and Glocester, every morning, at seven.
Cambridge, the Rising Sun, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday morning, at half past five, through Daventry, Wellingbrough, and Huntingdon, in one day; carries four insides.
Carlisle, Edinburgh, and Glasgow, a coach, by way of Preston and Lancaster, every morning and evening.
Cheltenham, a coach, every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday mornings.
Chester, the Prince of Orange, carrying four insides, every morning, at six, (Mondays excepted.)
Coventry, coaches every day, at a quarter before one and half past two.
Daventry, coaches, every morning, at five, and every afternoon, at half past two and four.
Dudley, coaches, every morning, at seven, and every afternoon, at four and five.
Exeter and Plymouth, a coach, every morning, at seven, (Monday excepted.)
Holyhead, the royal mail, every morning, at eleven, through Salop and Bangor.
------, a new post coach, every day, at eleven, sleeps at Shrewsbury, and arrives the following day in time for the packet.
Liverpool, the Bang-up post coach, in fifteen hours, carrying four insides only, through Wolverhampton, Stone, Knutsford, and Warrington, every morning, at six.
------, the Defiance, a light coach, through Lichfield and Rudgley, on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, and through Walsall, Cannock, and Stafford, on Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday, every afternoon, at four.
London, the royal mail, every afternoon, at four.
------, the Crown Prince day coach, in sixteen hours, every morning, at five.
------, the royal Union, through Coventry, every afternoon, at half past two, (except Sunday), when it goes at one.
------, the Defiance, a light coach, through Warwick and Leamington, every afternoon, at half past two, from the Saracen's Head.
Manchester, the Eclipse, a post coach, through Wolverhampton, Stafford, Stone, Newcastle, and Congleton, in twelve hours, every morning, at seven.
Northampton, a coach, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday morning, returns the same day.
Nottingham, the royal Dart, a post coach, through Tamworth and Ashby-de-la-Zouch, every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday morning, at half past eight.
Oxford, the Bang-up post coach, every morning, at eight.
Shrewsbury and Chester, a post coach, through Ellesmere, every morning, at six.
------, the Prince of Wales post coach, through Wolverhampton and Shiffnal, every morning, at eleven.
------, the royal mail, every morning, at eleven.
Walsall, the royal mail, every day, at twelve, and returns the same day.
------, a light coach, every afternoon (except Sunday,) at five.
Warwick and Leamington, the Regulator, every morning, at eight, and returns the same day.
------, the Telegraph, every afternoon, at three.
Wolverhampton, seven coaches every day.
Worcester, the True Blue, a post coach, every afternoon, at three.
_From St. George's Tavern._
Bristol, a coach, every morning, at seven.
Cheltenham, ditto ditto, at seven.
Chester, ditto, through Wolverhampton, every morning, at six.
Coventry, ditto, twice everyday.
Dudley, ditto, every day.
Holyhead, ditto, through Wolverhampton, every morning, at nine.
Kidderminster, ditto, every day.
Lichfield, ditto, ditto.
Liverpool, ditto, through Wolverhampton, every morning, at nine.
London, ditto, through Coventry, every afternoon, at three.
Shrewsbury, ditto, through Wolverhampton, every morning, at nine.
Stourbridge, ditto, twice every day.
* * * * *
Atherstone, a coach, by Samuel Smith, from the Cross Guns, Dale-end, Monday, Thursday, and Saturday.
Darlaston, a coach, every Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, from the Saracen's Head, Snowhill.
Dudley and Stourbridge, a mail cart, from the Warwick Arms, Snowhill, every day.
Sutton Coldfield, a coach, by Charles Smith, from the Cross Guns, Dale-end, Monday, Thursday, and Saturday, Warwick, a coach, by Wm. Barrows and Co, from the liquor shop, Monmouth-street, every afternoon, at three.
Wednesbury, Bilstone, and Wolverhampton, a coach, by Joseph Boddison, every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at five.
Willenhall, a coach, by John Alexander, from the Barrel, Snowhill, every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.
* * * * *
_Carriers by Water._
Bird, George Ryder, three cranes wharf, Crescent, loads fly boats daily, to Bristol, Dudley, London, Stourbridge, Stourport, Wolverhampton, Worcester, and all parts of Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Hampshire, Herefordshire, Hertfordshire, Middlesex, Northamptonshire, Shropshire, Staffordshire, Warwickshire, Worcestershire, and all parts of the united kingdom.
Bradley and Co. Broad-street wharf, load fly boats daily, to Liverpool, Manchester, and all parts of the North.
Crocket and Salkeld, wharf, Great Charles-street, load fly boats daily, to Liverpool, Manchester, and all parts of the north.--N.B. No other firm conveys goods all the way to Liverpool by their own vessels.
Crowley, Leyland, and Hicklin, Crescent wharf, load fly boats to Bristol, Coventry, Derby, Gainsborough, Hull, Liverpool, London, Manchester, and Oxford.--N.B. Wine and spirits are conveyed in boats secured by locks.
Danks, Samuel, and Co. Broad-street wharf, and also
one in Gas-street, load boats to Bath, Bridgnorth,
Bristol, Gloucester, Kidderminster, Shrewsbury,
Stourport, Worcester, and all the western parts of
England.
Heath, Tyler, and Danks, Great Charles-street, load
boats daily, for Dudley, Stourbridge, Wolverhampton,
etc.; also Chester, Derby, Gainsborough, Hull,
Liverpool, Manchester, &c.
Jackson, Thomas, wharf in Holt-street, loads boats to
Atherstone, Coventry, Fazeley, Hinckley, Stourbridge,
Tamworth, &c.
Pickford and Co. wharf on the Warwick canal, load
boats daily, and convey goods to London, Liverpool,
and Manchester; which they deliver on the fourth
day at each place; and to all other parts of the kingdom
with the greatest expedition.
Robinson, Corbet, and Co. wharf in Broad-street, load
fly boats to London, Stourbridge, Stourport, Wolverhampton,
Worcester, and all intermediate places;
also to Bristol every spring tide.
Skey, R. S. Worcester wharf, loads boats daily for
Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwick, Worcester, and all
intermediate places.
Smith, Joseph, and Sons, load boats at Worthington
and Co.'s wharf, Great Charles-street, for Burton
and Gainsborough, from whence the goods are forwarded
by a steam vessel of their own, in one day
certain, to Hull; they also convey goods to Nottingham.
Swaine (late Thomas), Friday-bridge wharf, loads boats
three days every week, for Derby, Leicester, Lincoln,
Lichfield, Nottingham, Shardlow, Tamworth,
&c.
Webb, H. and Co. Aston-Junction wharf, load boats to
Atherstone, Coton, Coventry, Fazeley, Hinckley,
Nuneaton, &c.
Wheatcroft, N. and G. Crescent wharf, load fly boats
every Tuesday and Friday, for Barnsley, Derby,
Leeds, Leicester, Sheffield, Wakefield, and all parts
of the north.
Whitehouse and Sons, Crescent wharf, load fly boats to
London, and all the intermediate places, every Tuesday
and Friday; and slow boats daily.
Worthington and Co. wharf, Great Charles-street, load
fly boats daily, for Chester, Liverpool, Manchester,
&c. and deliver goods to responsible and regular carriers
to the north of England, and Scotland.
To enumerate a long list of carriers by land, would not be in the least interesting to strangers, nor can it be of any use to the inhabitants, they being published in the Birmingham almanack, and also in the directory.
The number of boats specified above, are sufficient to convince any person, that the manufactures of this town are of the first importance, they being laden with goods manufactured in this town and its vicinity.
LINES
_Selected by permission of the Author from a manuscript_,
ENTITLED
Birmingham, a Fragment
WHICH IS INTENDED FOR PUBLICATION.
They are supposed to be part of a prophetic oracle, delivered by the priests of the god Woden.
Had we, Oh Birmingham, for thee design'd
A trade that's partial, and a sphere confin'd,
Thou'dst been a city, near some stream or shore,
To bless some _single_ district and no more;
But thou must minister to thousand wants,
Of cities, countries, islands, continents:
Hence _central_ be thy station--thus thy town,
Must make each port around the coast her own.
Let bright invention rove where no one awes,
Unfetter'd by dull, narrow, civic laws,
Which shut out commerce, ingenuity.
Where bloated pride, in sullen majesty,
And drowsy pomp sits notionally great,
While she on every stranger shuts her gate.
Let ingenuity here keep her seat,
For works minute, or works immensely great,
We to thy native sons the gift impart,
Of bright invention, and of matchless art,
Skill'd to devise, to reason, to compute,
Quick to suggest, and prompt to execute;
What some have but conceiv'd, do thou amend,
Mature and perfect, to some noble end.
Let fertile genius' bright, inventive powers,
In all their vigorous energy be yours.
Let savage nations who thy stores behold,
Give Britain in return, their useless gold,
Their gems, their pearls, their diamonds impart,
And boast the change, and prize the gift of art.
Thus shall thy polish'd wares of choicer worth,
Gain all that's rare, from ev'ry clime on earth.
Thy skill superior let our monarchs own,
And deem thee _a bright jewel in their crown_.
OBSERVATIONS
Made during an Excursion
_To Wednesbury in Staffordshire, distant eight miles, on the road to Wolverhampton and Shrewsbury_.
You proceed down Snowhill, and having passed the one mile stone, there are a few trees close to the road side, and opposite to them there is an extensive view over Barr-beacon, and the adjacent country, including the lofty trees in Aston park; over whose tops, the elegant spire of that church is seen. In descending the hill, when you have passed the buildings, the eye is delighted, on the right hand, with an extensive view over Hunter's nursery grounds, and on the left is Hockley abbey: this building was erected upon a piece of waste, boggy land, about the 1779, by Mr. Richard Ford, an ingenious mechanic of Birmingham, who, among other things, invented a one-wheel carriage, which he constructed entirely of iron; and for his ingenuity in the formation of that vehicle, the society of arts presented him with their gold medal. As he employed a number of hands, several of whom expended nine or ten shillings each week at the alehouse, it occurred to him, who was not given to drink, that he would lay aside two shillings every day; and having done so for a considerable time, as his business required him to keep a horse and cart; when they were at leisure, he sent them to Aston furnace,[5] to bring away large masses of scoriae, usually termed slag or dross, that lay there in great abundance. Having collected together a large quantity of it, he began to erect this building, to represent ruins; and to add to the deception, there is in the front of the house, in small pebble stones, the date, 1473; and all this was done, as he informed the writer of this article, without advancing any other money than the fourteen shillings per week. It is now nearly overgrown with ivy, and if no account had been given of the materials with which it is erected, posterity might have been at a loss to know what substance the walls were built with. Hubert Galton, Esq. now resides there, who pays rent for the house, and about fifteen acres of land, more than £100. per annum, exclusive of the enormous parochial taxes of Birmingham, which for these premises, from Michaelmas, 1816, to Michaelmas, 1817, amounted to the astonishing sum of sixty-one pounds and ten shillings, viz. thirty-six levies for the poor, at 30s. each, three highway levies, at 30s. each, and two levies for the church, at 30s. each. In the back ground, beyond this, is seen a glass-house, belonging to Messrs. Shakespear and Fletcher.
[Footnote 5: A blast furnace, for the making of pig iron, very near at hand.]
You now cross the Bourn, a small stream of water, that separates Warwickshire from the county of Stafford, and passing by Mr. Boulton's plantations on the left, when you are about half way up the hill, there is on the right hand, Prospect-house, where the late Mr. Eginton carried on his manufactory of stained glass.
At the two mile stone, on the left, is the entrance to Soho, where Matthew Robinson Boulton, Esq. resides, who is proprietor of the _Soho Manufactory_.
The road leading to this magnificent pile of building is on the left, when you have passed through the turnpike. The spot upon which it is erected, was, in the year 1764, a sterril, barren heath, and so it continued until 1793, when it was inclosed by act of parliament. The late Mr. Boulton, in the first instance, expended more than nine thousand pounds in the erection of buildings, exclusive of machinery. He soon after removed his manufactory from Birmingham; and then this enterprising genius established a seminary of artists; men of ingenuity being sought after, from all parts of Europe, and patronised with the greatest liberality: thus fostered by his benevolence, they soon produced an imitation of the _or molu_.--These metallic ornaments in the form of vases, tripods, candelabras, &c. found a ready sale, not only in this kingdom, but in France, and almost every part of civilized Europe. This business being established, silver articles were manufactured in such profusion, that it became necessary to make application for an assay office to be established in Birmingham; which was carried into effect in the year 1773. About this time, a mechanical process was discovered of copying pictures, in oil colours, which was brought to such perfection, that the most experienced connoiseurs were sometimes deceived. The process was chiefly under the direction of Mr. Francis Eginton, who afterwards commenced the business of staining glass.
Mr. Watt having obtained a patent for the improvement of steam engines, came and settled at Soho, in 1769, where he erected an engine, upon his own principles; which answering the intended purpose, he in 1775, obtained from parliament a prolongation of his term for twenty-five years. A partnership being now formed between Mr. Boulton and Mr. Watt, an extensive manufactory of these engines was established at Soho, and conveyed from thence to most of the deep mines and extensive works, where great power was requisite.
In 1788, a mint was erected at Soho, to be worked by the steam engine; from the rolling of the copper into sheets, afterwards passing it through steel, polished rollers, and then cutting out the blanks; all which was performed with the greatest ease and regularity by girls, instead of employing able men. This was not the whole, for the coining machines were worked with greater rapidity and exactness, by boys, from twelve to fourteen years of age, than could be done, by the former process, by a number of strong men, and their fingers not being in the least endangered; the machine depositing the blanks upon the dies, and when struck, it displaced one piece and deposited another.
To facilitate the manufacturing of steam engines, they erected an iron foundry, at Smethwick, on the banks of the Birmingham canal, where nearly all the laborious part is consigned to the engine. Engines are here manufactured from one horse to two hundred horse power, all acting together. Handsworth common being inclosed, enabled Mr. Boulton to extend his grounds to a considerable degree, which form an agreeable separation from his own residence, and forms a much admired scene of picturesque beauty.
A person wandering through these secluded walks, or on the banks of the various lakes and water falls, which adorn them, may here enjoy the sweets of solitude and retirement, with equal composure, as if he was far distant from the busy scenes that are close at hand.
What is here enumerated are all of them manufactured or carried on at the Soho, at the present time:--steam engines of every description, and for all purposes, where great power is requisite; coining of medals, or medallions, of any size required; silver and plated articles, of every description, such as tea urns, vases, tureens, dishes, candelabras, and every necessary article to decorate the table or the drawing room; metals of every description are here rolled, to any length or breadth required; patent copying machines; fine polished steel fire irons; steel buttons; ornaments for stove grates; fenders, or any other article in steel, where taste and elegance are necessary.
_Handsworth, in Staffordshire, distant two miles and a half_. Leaving Soho, you come to the elegant village of Handsworth, where, the common lands of the parish being inclosed by act of parliament, in 1793, they have probably been as productive, if not more so, than others of a similar nature in any other part of the kingdom; for there are now at least one hundred and fifty respectable houses erected upon the ground, which, before it was inclosed, lay entirely waste; and plots of the same land have been sold from two hundred pounds to a thousand pounds per acre.
About one quarter of a mile distant from Soho, is the residence of Miss Boulton, whose house is secluded from public view, by a lofty brick wall; and half a mile farther, going down a lane, by the sign of the Queen's head, a landscape of considerable interest exhibits itself; including Soho, Birmingham, and the intermediate country, to the monument. In the grounds, on the right, opposite the three mile stone, is a grand picturesque view of the whole country, including Barr-beacon, Aston church, and the lofty trees in the park. About half a mile farther, you arrive at the verge of Sandwell park, a, seat belonging to the Earl of Dartmouth, and opposite, on the left, is a grand panoramic view of the country, including the ruins of Dudley castle.
The church is an ancient gothic stone building, dedicated to St. Mary, with a square tower, of grey-stone; the body is of an irregular form, the workmanship being rude and tasteless. It appears to be much neglected, and out of repair, both inside and out; and neither in respect to size or decorations, does it bear any analogy to the number of the population, or the wealth of the parishioners. Indeed, if the structure of the church should be a criterion to judge of the opulence of the inhabitants, a stranger would certainly conclude, that they were most of them tenants at rack rent, and greatly burdened with poor. The only objects deserving of notice, are two monuments; one in the inside, and the other on the out. The one erected to commemorate the late Matthew Boulton, Esq. is the work of the celebrated Flaxman, and adds another wreath of laurel to the brow of that classical artist. If is of white and blue marble, and is surmounted by a bust, which is the best representation extant of that enterprising and deserving man, to whose memory it is sacred. The other is an humble tomb-stone, remarkable as being one of the last works, cut by his own hand, with his name at the top of it, of that celebrated typographer, Baskerville, but this, being neglected by the relations of the deceased, has been mutilated, although the inscription is still perfect, but so much overgrown with moss and weeds, that it requires more discrimination than falls to the lot of many passing travellers to discover the situation of this neglected gem. To those who are curious, it will be found close to the wall, immediately under the chancel window. This precious relic of that eminent man is deserving of being removed, at the expense of the parish, and preserved with the greatest care, withinside the church. Mr. Baskerville was originally a stone-cutter, and afterwards kept a school, in Birmingham.[6]
[Footnote 6: Since writing the above, the Rev. T. L. Freer, who is rector, and the wealthy parishioners have entered into a liberal subscription, and being aided by government with the sum of five hundred pounds, they have undertaken to rebuild the body of the church, according to an elegant plan, designed by W. Hollins, statuary and architect, of Birmingham, without making any rate on the inhabitants.]
There is only one more of his cutting known to be in existence, and that has lately been removed and placed withinside the church, at Edgbaston; to which place please to refer.
_West-Bromwich, in Staffordshire, distant five miles_.
The church is an old tower structure of stone, dedicated to St. Clement; the body having been of late years rebuilt, has two side aisles, handsomely pewed, and galleries all round. The officiating clergyman is the Rev. Charles Townsend.
The waste lands in this parish being inclosed by act of parliament in the year 1804, has produced a very beneficial effect; for, by the side of the main road, which scarcely produced a blade of grass, there are now numerous houses erected, and the lands about them are very productive. The new inclosed lands now let from three pounds to five pounds per acre, and a great part of it is in tillage.
In this extensive parish, the new inclosed land has been sold from one hundred to eight hundred and forty pounds per acre; and the neighbourhood is now become so populous, that it is in contemplation to erect a new church, there being in the beginning of October last more than three thousand pounds subscribed for that purpose.
The following works of considerable magnitude are, already established, and now in full work:--
Birmingham brass company, in Spon-lane.
James Taylor, cast steel manufactory.
Archibald Kenrick and Co. iron-founders.
Samuel and John Dawes, iron and steel-masters.
Izons and Whitehurst, foundry for kitchen furniture.
Elwell and Hortons, iron-founders.
Thomas Price, iron-master.
Bagnall and Son, iron-masters.
William Bullock and Co. iron-founders, and manufacturers
of kitchen furniture, improved coffee mills, &c.
Charles Bache, manufacturer of bar and sheet iron, old
forge.
William Chapman, grinder and polisher, Burstelholme mill.
Samuel Elwell, iron-master, Friar-park forge,
---- Tickell, iron-master.
Isaac Horton, boiler-maker.
Edward Fisher and Co. iron-masters.
John U. Rastrick, manufacturer of steam engines.
Before you arrive at the six mile stone, the road divides, and you proceed on the right hand for another mile, when, on a sudden, the eye is highly gratified with a view of _Wednesbury_. Which is erected on a declivity; and on the summit, the church, with its lofty spire, makes a very unusual and respectable appearance. This church is a beautiful gothic edifice; the body and tower of which is coated with Parker's cement, but the chancel remains as before. Tradition says, that on this spot there was, in former times, a Saxon castle. Withinside the church there are numerous ancient monuments, and an inscription, signifying that William Hopkins, yeoman, Richard Hawkes, and Robert Carter, caused the chimes of this church to be made and set up, at their equal and proper cost and charges, A. D. 1635. The clock, which is represented to be a remarkable good one, has a pendulum upon an unusual construction, the rod being fourteen yards in length, and the ball of it weighs 100 pounds.
Here are eight musical bells, the two trebles being fixed in 1558; the sixth has an inscription, "William Comberford, lord of this manor, gave this bell, 1623."--"On the seventh is, Sancta Bartholomew, ora pro nobis." And on the tenor is inscribed, "I will sound and resound to thee, O Lord, to call thy people to hear thy word."
The church yard is of considerable extent, and being in such an elevated situation, those who profess to delineate panoramas may here find ample scope to display their abilities; for there is not only a view of the following churches, but the towns and villages wherein they are situated, are several of them under the eye of the spectator from this lofty eminence, viz. Walsall, Willenhall, Darlaston, Wolverhampton two churches, Bilstone, Sedgley, Dudley, two churches and the ruins of the castle, West-bromwich, Tipton, Wednesfield, Brierly-hill, and Rushall; in addition to the above, by ascending the roof of the church, you command Birmingham and Aston, together with numerous engines that are at work in its vicinity; the whole when combined form such a rich and variegated scene as probably cannot be equalled in any other situation.
In the vicinity of Wednesbury there are numerous mines of coal, wherein great numbers of people are employed, whilst others pursue the different branches of gun-making; springs, steps, and other articles used by coach-makers, are also manufactured here, together with wood screws, hinges, and of late, apparatus for the gas lights.
In the year 1742, when the methodists were spreading their doctrines through the kingdom, some disturbances took place here on that account; and soon after, Mr. Wesley, the preacher, was waited upon by Sir John Gonson, one of the Middlesex justices, who notified to him that he and his brethren had received orders from above to do justice to him and his friends, whenever they should make application; his majesty being determined, that no man in his dominions should be persecuted for conscience sake. Posterity will scarcely credit, that in Britain, and at so late a period as 1742, justice was not to be obtained but by an order from court; and that such order was issued, reflects infinite credit on the sovereign, George 2d, who commanded it. This mandate was not by any means premature; for it became absolutely necessary, to quell the increasing tumults. In Staffordshire, the populace rose upon their employers, from whom they demanded money, and if that was not complied with, they threatened to serve them as they had done the methodists. A quaker, when riding through Wednesbury, was attacked by them, pulled from off his horse, and dragged to a coal pit, where it was attended with difficulty to prevent their throwing him in. This gentleman, not being so much attached to his principles as to refuse the protection of the law, prosecuted them at the assizes, which caused those tumults to subside in Staffordshire.
_Darlaston_.
This place, being only one mile distant, I went there; but neither on the road or in the village could I perceive any thing deserving of attention; the inhabitants being employed in the same pursuits as at Wednesbury.
_Walsall, in Staffordshire, distant nine miles, on the direct road to Stafford_.
You proceed down Snowhill, and having passed the buildings, you perceive on the right hand Hunter's nursery grounds, from whence there is a good prospect of the town of Birmingham, in a clear day. On the left, Hockley abbey, and the plantations of Mr. Boulton, present a rich scene in front, with a glass-house in the back ground. At the bottom of the hill you cross a small stream of water, which separates Warwickshire from the county of Stafford. In ascending the opposite hill, on the right hand is Prospect-house, where the late Mr. Eginton carried on his manufactory of stained glass. Soon after the road divides, when, turning to the right hand, it leads you by a row of respectable houses, and when through the toll gate, you leave what was once Handsworth common, and immediately on the left is a handsome house, with a beautiful avenue of lime trees; once the seat of the ancient family of Sacheverel, but now the property of Joseph Grice, Esq.
A little farther on the right is a simple though tasteful lodge, leading to Heathfield, the elegant mansion of the celebrated James Watt, Esq. who is well known to all scientific men, for the great improvements he has made in steam engines, and various other useful works. A few years back, the adjacent ground was a wild and dreary waste, but it now exhibits all the beauty and luxuriance that art assisted by taste can give it. Woods and groves appear to have started up at command, and it may now vie with any seat in the neighbourhood, for rural elegance and picturesque beauty. Descending the hill, the parish church of Handsworth presents itself to view, and a short distance before you arrive at it, is the parsonage-house, where the Rev. Lane Freer resides.--It is a very excellent house, and possesses more conveniences and luxuries than are usually to be met with in the habitations of the clergy. About a mile farther on the right is the elegant residence of N. G. Clarke, Esq. one of the king's counsel; a gentleman highly distinguished for acuteness and perspicuity in his profession, and thorough hospitality in his house. Still farther on the left, as you descend a steep hill, there is a fine view, at a considerable distance, of the domains of Hamstead hall. It is a very elegant and modern-built mansion, the old one having been taken down some years since, which was for many generations the seat of the ancient and respectable family of the Wyrleys, who possessed the manor and very large property in this parish. On the demise of the late John Wyrley, Esq. the whole of this estate was left by will to George Birch, Esq. at whose decease it devolved upon his only son, the present Wyrley Birch, Esq. It is difficult to conceive a more beautiful residence than this, as it contains all that hill and dale, wood and water, aided by extensive views, can do, to make a place delightful and desirable: these seem here to have been combined in the most beautiful manner; for the river Tame meanders through this enchanting and extensive domain; on whose banks are numerous groves of trees, and from a solid rock there arises a lime tree, of unusual magnitude, whose branches spreading in an horizontal direction became so heavy, and injured the trunk to such a degree, that in order to preserve the body, it not only became necessary to lop off the principal branches, but to bind it together with iron in different ways, by hooping of it, and passing a bar of iron through it, in the same manner as buildings are frequently done, to preserve them. At the height of three feet, it girths twenty-three feet and rises to the height of seventy feet. The rock upon which this tree grows, is of such a nature, that there is a grotto of considerable size cut in it, wherein the roots from this tree spread themselves in different directions. This inestimable estate, although for so many generations the patrimonial possessions of the family, has been lately transferred by the proprietor to the Earl of Dartmouth, and is now in the possession of William Wallis, Esq.
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A Description of Modern BirminghamChapter III: Part 3
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