Chapter I: Part 1

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE

Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.

Some minor changes to the text are noted at the end of the book.

_On stone by W. Walton_

A. _Wreck of H. M. Ship Challenger_
B. _Tent for the Chilenos from Arauco_
C. _Tent put up for Cheuquante’s Indians_
D. _Ship’s Company Tent_
E. _Tent for Capt^n. & Officers_

_Printed by C Hullmandel_
]

A

DIARY

OF

THE WRECK OF HIS MAJESTY’S SHIP

CHALLENGER,

ON THE

WESTERN COAST OF SOUTH AMERICA,

IN MAY, 1835.

WITH AN ACCOUNT OF

THE SUBSEQUENT ENCAMPMENT OF THE OFFICERS
AND CREW,

DURING A PERIOD OF SEVEN WEEKS,

ON THE

SOUTH COAST OF CHILI.

LONDON:
PRINTED FOR
LONGMAN, REES, ORME, BROWN, GREEN, & LONGMAN,
PATERNOSTER-ROW.
1836.

LONDON:
Printed by A. Spottiswoode,
New-Street-Square.

DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.

Encampment at Molquilla _to face the Title_.

Molquilla Beach _to face page_ 6

Plan of Molquilla Camp 30

View of the Leubu Camp 98

A DIARY

OF

THE WRECK OF HIS MAJESTY’S SHIP

CHALLENGER.

On the first day of April, 1835, His Majesty’s ship Challenger sailed from Rio Janeiro for the Pacific, with orders to touch at the port of Concepçion in our way to Valparaiso, at which place we hoped either to find the commodore commanding on the western coasts of South America, or directions for our further proceedings. Valparaiso and Concepçion are the two principal seaports of the republic of Chili; the former being the most important, as receiving the great bulk of manufactures, and other numerous and various exports from Europe.

The object of the Challenger’s calling at Concepçion, situated about 300 miles south of Valparaiso, and laying in the route of the latter port, was for the purpose of procuring a supply of wood and water, for which Concepçion offers peculiar facilities.

The first part of our voyage was a series of calms, with light variable winds; and our progress to the southward was slow, until we reached the latitude of 31° south. We then began to experience fresh westerly and southerly winds, which, with little variation, continued until we had arrived in the vicinity of Cape Horn. Nothing had occurred worthy of notice, except that numerous flying-fish were seen as far south as the latitude of 40°. Off the Cape, in latitude 60°, after a short interval of calm, a number of what we only know by the name of black fish attracted our attention by the peculiarity of their movements, and the closeness of their approach to the ship; and we experienced a severe gale, which began in the south, and gradually veered to S.S.W. and S.W., accompanied by an unusually high sea, with constant hail squalls.

_May 4._--The wind blew violently from S. and S.S.W., with a heavy sea and hard squalls of hail and snow. It was of consequence to draw the ship to the westward, and to this end we carried our close-reefed main-topsails and reefed foresail; the wind being about two points abaft the beam; the ship behaving remarkably well, but lurching deeply; and on one occasion she made so heavy a plunge, that a long lee sea came in over all, staving in the lee quarter gallery, moving the sheet-anchor, floating our spars in the lee channels, and actually wetting the legs of several persons who were securing their holdfast under the weather bulwarks. We looked on this as a hint to batten down our main-deck hatchways; to take the canvass off her; and, as night was closing in, the main-topsail and foresail were furled, and the ship eventually hove-to, under the fore and main-staysails; the latter having been, in our first attempt to set it, blown to leeward by the carrying away of our staysail stay. In this breeze a heavy sea struck the bows and cutwater, and with a most singular result, for it carried away the crown of our figure-head from the forehead upwards; and the ominous remark of the person who reported the circumstance to the officer of the watch was, “Sir, she has lost her brains.” The weather continued stormy, with heavy squalls of hail, with little intermission, till the 6th and 7th of May; when we experienced a severe gale off the entrance of the Straits of Magellan, and under the double-reefed courses, which was as much sail as the masts and yards would bear; and, in a long high sea, the good qualities of the ship called forth the undivided praise of all on board.

_May 17._--In latitude 41°, and longitude 80° 43′ W., the weather appeared to have undergone a change for the better. The barometer, which had been for several weeks very low, now rose to the height usually shown on the coasts of Peru, and the northern parts of the coast of Chili; and many were the mutual congratulations exchanged on board, on our having at length got into fine moderate weather, securing, as we conceived the ultimate object in view, that of arriving at the port of Concepçion, then only two days’ sail in distance from us. Good observations were obtained on this day, the results of which were found to agree closely with our estimation as shown by the dead reckoning. The topgallant masts were sent aloft, together with the studding-sail booms, and a variety of gear, which, during our stormy weather, had been sent on deck to relieve the masts and ship; and all the necessary sail was made in the direction of our destined port. The wind S.W.; the course steered N.N.E.

_May 18._--The weather became thick, with a fresh wind. The 19th produced little change, except that we were enabled to get a good set of sights of the sun for our chronometers, by which, with our latitude by dead reckoning, we worked out our longitude, the correctness of which we had no reason whatever to doubt. At noon Concepçion bore from us N. 52°, 41° E., 146 miles. At 5 P.M. the ship was hove-to, the chain cables bent, and the usual preparation made on approaching an anchorage. The deep-sea lead was tried in upwards of 200 fathoms, but without striking soundings. Sail was again made in the ship, treble-reefed topsails, courses, and fore-topmast staysail.

At 8 P.M., after a careful examination of the ship’s place on the charts, directions were given to haul the ship to the wind on the larboard tack. This was done at about 10 minutes after 8 o’clock, and it allowed her to lay along shore, N. half E., the wind being about W.N.W., reducing her rate of going to about four knots; at which pace it was proposed to allow her to continue, until daylight permitted us to bear up, and again make sail for our destination, Talcuhuana Bay, the anchorage of Concepçion. The weather at this time was still hazy, the wind moderate, the water smooth, and stars appearing occasionally overhead, with an expected moon at midnight, promising us a quiet fine night: but the Almighty had ordered it otherwise, and a most awful and perilous shipwreck awaited us.

At about 9 45′ P.M., the look-out men having been visited but a few minutes before, breakers were seen at the same moment by them and the officer of the watch, who also remarked a new and peculiar motion in the movement of the ship. The helm was instantly put down, and the watch hurried to their stations to tack the ship; the captain, calling for the hands to be turned up as he flew upon deck, and as the ship had answered the helm though rising to a very high sea, and was coming round, hauled the after-yards. Orders were given to stand by the anchors; but almost immediately afterwards the order “to keep fast the anchors,” and haul the head-yards. In accomplishing this latter operation a high surf struck the bows; the ship, lifting to the heavy swell, got sternway, and struck with a dreadful crash, her keel taking the rocks about midships: another sea followed, which threw her on her starboard beam-ends, the surf at the same time breaking over and into the ship with a force sufficient to wash the men from the decks. Most miraculously, however, no serious accident now occurred, nor was any greater injury sustained than by the men at the helm, who were thrown over the wheel, and severely bruised. We were now at the mercy of the heaviest surf it is possible to conceive; the ship labouring in a most fearful manner, falling over on either broadside, and righting herself as the weight and force of the sea affected her; and the warning orders were reiterated to hold on, and keep out of the way of the masts, which were every moment expected to fall. The masts, however, stood, though many of the loftier back-stays, stay, and braces, came down, but, fortunately, without injury to any one.

Reference to Plan

1. _Ship standing in on a wind, on larboard tack head N.N.E. (true)._
2. _Ship stayed head S.S.W. when the first breaker struck her._
3. _Position when she first struck head S.S.E._
4. _Supposed situation when the mizen mast was cut away, the Ship having
been thrown over a sunken ledge of rocks into 6 feet water sandy bottom
the surf breaking over larboard side with great violence._
5. _Ship at daylight on the 20th when the Jollyboat left with the
lead line._
6. _Situation when abandoned on the 7th June, buried 9 feet in the sand.
The flat staff on the Leubu Head bore from Tucapel Point N b E (true)
about 15 miles._]

A few minutes had been sufficient to place us in this most frightful and truly awful situation; a situation requiring the greatest degree of firmness, as well as promptitude of action. A thick dense fog, which hung on the water, gave us no warning of the silent and terrible rollers; the first of which, on being discovered, launched us amongst the breakers, which were now roaring with fury around us, drenching to the skin every individual on the deck as they broke with violence into the ship. The brilliancy of the surf and spray, added to the sad and gloomy character of the night, made our frightful situation the more apparent; and, for a considerable interval of time, so heavily did the ship continue to strike, that it appeared impossible for any human power to prevent her from going to pieces, or to conceal from ourselves the appalling prospect of a watery grave for every soul on board.

By the important decision of keeping fast the anchors, and cutting away the mizzen-mast, the ship appeared to be relieved abaft, and to be thrown over rocks into what we fancied to be a shoal; whereas; if she had been at all checked by an anchor, all must have perished on the spot where she struck. A heavy surf continued to roll in on us, the spray breaking high over us on the decks: the hand-leads, however, satisfied us that we were on sand, through which the weight of the sea was forcing the ship; and, as she providentially took up a position with her bow to the surf, hope began to dawn amongst us of the ship’s holding together, and hence a chance for the safety of our lives, when daylight should assist us in discovering the means of attempting it. Another danger had also excited our apprehensions, from an appearance of dark water astern of us, inside the surf, apparently rendering it indispensable to drop our anchors to hold the ship on the sand, to avoid foundering in deep water: for we had become aware of the impossibility of keeping her afloat, as she had been seriously bilged about midships, the tanks and chain cables rising to the lower deck as the ship worked in the sand in which she was now embedded. The leads, however, continuing to assure us that she still bedded with tolerable firmness, the anchors were kept fast; the prudence and good fortune of which step daylight fully disclosed to us. On her first striking amongst the breakers, the rudder was carried away, the gun-room beams and cabin deck forced up, and a vast body of water coming in astern flooded the gun-room and lower deck: many of the timbers on the starboard side were heard to break with a fearful crash.

The excellent conduct and good discipline of all on board, in this extremity of danger, merited the highest praise. Although every heart must have felt the hopelessness of our situation, there was evinced that steady attention to the orders which were given, free from confusion or the slightest disobedience. How frequently did we afterwards remark on the fatal result that must inevitably have followed any rash attempt which, under the influence of terror, might have been made, to quit the wreck, and, I trust, with feelings of humble thankfulness to the providential mercy which had thus far preserved and directed us.

The main-deck ports had been caulked in for our voyage round Cape Horn, and had fortunately not been started. The main-deck hatchways were battened down; but it was necessary to scuttle the lower deck, from the quantity of water taken in over all. From the drawing of the ship through the sand, the hand-pumps constantly going, enabled us to keep her sufficiently free to allow us to get up a considerable quantity of dry biscuit, which was put into some of our empty water-casks: some ball-cartridges were also got up, and placed in the dryest situation on the main-deck. Yet, at this time, so slender was the hope of saving ourselves, or any thing belonging to us, that the ship’s accounts, with a private packet or two, were secured in a cask, to be thrown overboard, with the chance of its reaching the shore, and telling the fate of the poor Challenger.

Towards midnight, some officers and men thought they perceived land astern; and, on the starboard quarter, many were the eyes which eagerly sought out a gleam for their deliverance. We now attempted, by means of blue lights and rockets thrown in the direction, to ascertain the existence of land, but without success. The moon having at length risen, we, at about 2 30′ A.M., after anxiously watching the dispersion of some heavy clouds, got sufficient moonlight to make certain the sight of land. Those who witnessed that moment will long remember the joy and emotion which it gave rise to; for the horrors of the preceding four hours had been surcharged with the torturing apprehension of lingering death. Dark and desponding must be that mind which, at such a crisis, could not derive some solace in the hope of succour from that omnipotent Being, who governs the storm, and alone has the power to save.

The weather continued dark and gloomy, with occasional drizzling rain, but little wind, though squally-looking clouds were passing rapidly over our heads--a high irregular surf breaking on all sides around us with a noise and roar not to be forgotten. The dangerous nature of the surf made it evident that no common boat could pass through it in safety; and the ship having become, in a measure, less laboursome, the jolly-boat and gig were prepared as life-boats by lashing to them small boats’ breakers and spars, to be ready for use on the return of daylight.

_May 20._--At daylight the shore presented a long, low, flat sandy beach, with a tremendous surf rolling in on it, extending to the southward a distance interminable to the eye; in the W.N.W. direction an elevated promontory of land extended out to the westward, with a reef of scattered rocks, distant from us between two and three miles. To land the crew was the first object to which our attention was directed. The only mode to effect this appeared to be by succeeding in establishing a means of communication by a rope, or hawser, whence to raft the crew from the ship to the beach, the nearest distance to which was about two cable-lengths. With this view the jolly-boat was lowered over the stern into the surf under the charge of Mr. A. Booth, mate, and a volunteer crew of seven men; and, after a long struggle, they succeeded in reaching the beach with the end of the deep sea lead-line; but, owing to the strong set of the current along shore to the southward, the spot on which they landed was at least half a mile distant from that part of the beach immediately astern and nearest the ship. The jolly-boat was no sooner washed upon the beach, than the crew, thoroughly drenched, began the labour of endeavouring to tauten the line in the direction astern of the ship; but, after many fruitless attempts to do so, it was evident to us on board that a second boat, with more assistance, was absolutely necessary to effect this object. The bite of the line was much checked by the current and masses of shifting sand, caused by the immense back-set off the beach. It was now the gig was launched over the stern by means of the spanker-boom, rigged as a derick, and secured to the stump of the mizzen-mast, with a topping lift to the mainmasthead, and hung ready to drop at a favourable moment into the surf: she was the captain’s gig, and considered to possess qualities likely to ensure equal success with the boat that had already reached the shore, being carefully fitted in a similar manner.

Into the gig went Mr. Gordon, midshipman, a most zealous volunteer, who had anxiously sought the dangerous attempt of going in the first boat: with him were six volunteer seamen. One of the six, serving his time on board for having been a smuggler, and possessed of great activity and strength, was placed in the charge and management of the steer-oar, the nature of the surf rendering a rudder useless. On leaving the stern of the ship, cheered by all on board, they passed over a roller or two in security, and the superior management of the steer-oar appeared to promise certain success. But, alas! another and another terrific roller followed, the gig broached-to, was instantly capsised, and whirled over and over. This heartrending sight again damped the hopes of all; and what added to the cruel and distressing situation of those in the ship, was the impossibility of rendering the least assistance to our poor shipmates, now struggling with death in the dangerous surf. Most anxiously were our glasses directed to the spot, when occasionally, as they drifted to the southward, their heads were at moments visible.

By this melancholy accident perished Mr. Gordon, a most excellent young man, possessed of every quality to fit him for the highest station in his profession. He was much esteemed by his captain, not only for his efficiency, but for his many estimable qualities. He was greatly beloved by his brother shipmates, and much regretted by all. John Edwards, an excellent seaman, was also lost by this sad event. Their bodies were never found, and were supposed to have either been carried out to sea by the back-set, or buried in the sand. The others of the crew of the gig were taken out of the water by the crew of the jolly-boat, nearly exhausted, and more than three quarters of a mile to the southward.

At about 6 A.M. this morning (20th), a ship was discovered through the haze about three or four miles outside the breakers, standing in for the land. Seeing the danger of her situation, one of the after main-deck ports was opened, two guns fired as a signal to her, and an ensign hoisted to the main-topmast crosstrees, with the union downwards: she tacked, and stood off, hoisting Swedish colours. The rollers broke outside us, to a distance of at least a mile and a quarter, and it was impossible for her to render us any assistance: little doubt existed amongst us, that we were the hapless beacon of her danger: another hour’s dark might have placed her alongside us.

A three and a half inch hawser had, after much labour, been dragged to the beach: we had now constructed two rafts, by lashing on empty casks strong cross spars, yards, and mess tables; and about 11 A.M. it was determined to try the first by sending a lieutenant and seven men, a kedge-anchor, a stout hawser, and a hawling line, which reached the shore with difficulty, far to the southward, and was thrown so high on the beach, and so shaken, that she could not again be launched this day. About 2 P.M. the second raft was hoisted over, and, with the first lieutenant, assistant surgeon, captain’s clerk, several of the junior midshipmen, who were secured to the raft by life lines, and thirteen seamen, making a total in number of nineteen persons, were successful in landing in safety. The weight and draft of this raft, from its load (having, in addition to the passengers, several articles of provisions and arms), made the operation of getting a footing on the beach, from the back set of the surf; a critical one; and it was on this occasion that a small body of Indians, on horses, many of whom had been first seen approaching from the hills soon after daylight, dashed into the water, and with their lazos assisted the landing of those on it. One of the most active of the party was an Indian woman.

Our kedge anchor was now buried, and the stout hawser hauled on board, and hove taut, and an attempt to make a second trip with the last raft; but it was upset in the surf, under the stern, and one seaman who had jumped upon it was a long time in great peril of being washed off it, whilst it drifted back to the beach, the slip rope which had attached it to the hawser, by which it had been hove off, having parted. At 3 P.M. the ship appeared to have neared the shore, and it was determined to lash some stout spars to the cutter, and launch her. She landed safely, though nearly filled with water, having conveyed on shore officers, seamen, and marines, to the number of thirteen. It was now nearly dusk, and the whole number landed scarcely exceeded fifty persons. All hands were greatly exhausted, from fatigue both of mind and body, were drenched with wet, and required rest. The comfortless situation of those on shore, on a barren sand, wet through, with scanty refreshment, and a bitter cold frosty night, may be imagined; great anxiety also existing as to the fate of their shipmates on board. A watch was kept on the beach throughout the night, whilst others got shelter under the rafts, and on the side of a mound of sand, at some little distance. To those in the ship an equal share of excessive fatigue and mental anxiety had rendered rest from labour most necessary. The ship continued buried in the sand, and was comparatively quiet, although at intervals labouring, and feeling most sensibly the weighty shocks of the unceasing rollers. A watch attended throughout the night to observe the lead lines; the anchors were kept ready in the event of its being found necessary to drop them, in order to retain the ship’s bows in their position towards the rollers; and the pumps kept working. Much had been done during the past day not yet mentioned: the danger as well as difficulty of communication with the shore had occasioned a vast quantity of the bedding and clothes of the crew to be thrown overboard, attached to pieces of spars, which, on being washed on shore, were received by those on the beach. In addition to these articles were casks filled with bread, casks of salt pork, and a great number and variety of other things. Amongst these a quantity of segars, which had been put into empty bottles and securely corked, were washed up in good condition.

Captain Seymour had hastily written a letter to His Majesty’s consul at Concepçion, from which place we hoped we were not very distant, of which the assistant surgeon, who spoke a little Spanish, and the clerk of the Challenger, had volunteered to be the bearers. They had landed in the second raft; and to find a fit person to conduct these gentlemen, in an unknown country, through thick woods, across rivers, along roads in places almost impassable, was an object of the greatest interest and importance, and which the suspicious countenances of the Indians, who had become numerous around us, and to whom we could not make ourselves understood, afforded little promise of accomplishing. By a most providential circumstance Camilo Hermosillo, a Spanish Chilino from the neighbourhood of the frontier town of Arauco, had come to the southward to purchase cattle, and hearing of a wreck, had accompanied an Indian cacique to the spot of our misfortune. This honest man gave the clue to all our future correspondence.

After much negotiation, and being piqued on his Castilian blood, and with fair promises of reward, Camilo undertook to become the guide, and procure the horses necessary for a journey to Concepçion. We were indebted to the zealous exertions of Mr. Sarjeant, the purser, for our success, which is to be attributed, in a great measure, to his perfect knowledge of the Spanish language and character.

From Camilo we obtained the first outline of our situation. We were informed that the name of the spot on which we were wrecked was Molquilla, in the province of Arauco, sixty leagues south of Concepçion, and about thirty-five miles from the island of Mocha; and by observations afterwards taken on shore with our artificial horizon, in latitude 37° 48′ 48″ south, and longitude 73° 34′ 30″ west. It lies at the extreme southern verge of that portion of the Araucanian Indian territory in which the Indians tacitly acknowledge the authority of the Chilian government; and under its influence the caciques had, for the previous twelve months, been carrying on a war of extermination against the more southern Indians of Tucapel, Tercia, and Imperial. We also learnt that, on the 20th of February last, the city of Concepçion had been totally destroyed by an earthquake, since which shocks had been continually felt upon the coast in the vicinity, and of which we had soon experience. The position on the beach where the landing had been made was described as untenable; and it was recommended to take the highest elevation that the small sand-hills on the extensive flat around us afforded, as a security from the rising of the sea, which in three days after rose far above the spot on which our first communication with Camilo took place, and level with the base of the small sand-hill of scarcely ten feet elevation on which we were encamped.

With the assistance of the Indian cacique, horses were procured; and with the greatest satisfaction we saw from the ship our two shipmates, with their guide, at half past four, depart on their journey to Concepçion, the Indians retiring to the hills on the approach of dusk. In the ship, six larboard after-main-deck guns had been thrown overboard to counteract an inclination which she had to fall over on her larboard broadside, the fore-topmast cut away, and the main-topmast struck, and the sails cut from the yards, and sent on deck ready to transport to the shore for tents.

_May 21._--At daylight all hands were labouring hard in working the rafts between the shore and the ship. So powerfully had the surf acted on the hull of the ship during the night, that she was forced one half the distance that we had been, on the 20th, nearer the beach; and hence our future operations, though still harassing from the breaking in of the surf, were rendered free from danger. The weather proving fine, the sick were landed during the morning: we had three in cots, who were hoisted over the stern, and secured on a heap of bedding and casks sufficiently high to prevent more than a little spray from reaching them. They were carried up to the mound of sand on which the choice had fallen as the site of our camp. Numerous Indians came from the neighbouring hills to reconnoitre us, with the Cacique Cheuquante, with a considerable retinue of them and a Spanish interpreter, offering assistance against the southern Indians, of whom they evinced a great dread. Although the disinterestedness of these offers were prudently estimated, policy enjoined address and conciliation to cultivate their confidence and good opinion; and the captain, who had observed the increase of Indians, landed about 2 P.M. to organise the crew and construct a camp, and keeping in view these considerations, accepted the services of a few as look-out men.

A large tent was erected on the mound of sand for the crew, composed of two topsails, a main course, and some studding sails, and near it a smaller one for the captain and officers. Into this latter tent were conveyed all the small arms which had been landed, cutlasses, pikes, and some ball cartridges, together with any other articles, which time and labour had allowed us to collect and bring up for the night. The spot on which we had fixed for our encampment was distant from the wreck about half a mile: the beach, which we learnt was about forty-five miles in extent, formed the line of sea boundary to the swampy, sandy marsh, in which was situated the mound which held our camp. This flat extended inland to a chain of irregular hills, distant four or five miles, on which were visible patches of trees and underwood. From these hills ran, in the direction of the sea, a small stream of good fresh water, which passed immediately at the base of the mound on which we were encamped. This stream proved to us a blessing of inestimable value, for our stock of water on board had become damaged soon after our misfortune, from the overflowing of the sea-water into the tanks; and to have sent to any distance for water, in our increasing apprehension of the conduct of the Indians, would have added much to our embarrassment. Before the night had closed in on the 21st, we had, by the construction of tents, secured a tolerable shelter for all who were on shore. An officer, with an appointed number of men, remained on board the wreck to attend to the working of the pumps, the tautening of the hawsers, and to watch the labouring of the hull, the surf continuing to roll in with its usual overpowering force, the noise of which on shore, during the night, was quite stunning. The weather throughout the day had been tolerably fine, the wind moderate from the N.W., and the night threatened to be cold and frosty. On the approach of night, the Indians, who had been numerous, moved off in various directions towards the hills: they usually came in the morning, in groups, on horseback and on foot, from six to eight in a party, making the shortest route to our camp which the standing pools of water, which were numerous, would allow.

Before the crew were permitted to partake of any refreshment, the arms were distributed to be dried, cleaned, and prepared for use, and all were cautioned as to their conduct to be observed towards the Indians. The scene of our encampment on this night it is not in the power of any one to imagine, who was not witness to it. The exhaustion from incessant labour throughout the day was evident in all; not an article of clothing or bedding had reached the shore, without having experienced the drenching effects of the surf, and the heaps of innumerable articles that were scattered on all sides, formed a melancholy contrast to our customary order and regularity in our poor lost ship. Bounded in our rear by a marsh, which the rainy season, now at hand, would convert into a lake; the ocean in our front, rising occasionally within little more than a hundred yards of our camp, and from which the effects of an earthquake, (slight, indeed, compared to that which so recently occurred at Talcahuana, where the sea rose thirty feet,) might have swept us away; and the probability of a visit from the hostile southern Indians, who the preceding year had plundered of every article the unfortunate crews of four merchantmen, wrecked upon the coast, left us only the uncheering prospect of equivocal hospitality from our northern neighbours,--a barbarous race who murder the adults, and sell for slaves the infant children, of their captured enemies. Fires were made, and some salt pork cooked for our suppers; each also receiving an allowance of rum. A watch, consisting of an officer, a midshipman, and a proportion of the men under arms, was established for the night, and rest anxiously sought for on the sand under our canvass.

_May 22._--Daylight saw all hands, who were not disabled from previous exhaustion, hard at work in tautening the hawsers from the wreck to the shore, working the pumps, and getting on shore our stream-anchor, which, after some difficulty, was buried in the sand, and backed with a gunslide: to it we bent the chain and hemp stream-cables, which were brought to the capstan on board; and, by keeping a strain on them, the hull continued, from the force of the sea, and daily becoming lighter, to near the shore. We now worked hard to secure whatever provisions we could get at, spars and sails to strengthen our tents, and arms and ammunition for our protection against molestation on the part of the Indians.

One of our nine-pounder long guns was also got up and pointed over the stern of the ship, so as to cover our camp, as well as give protection to the ship. The weather to-day was cold and frosty, with fog: the surf appeared to be forming a ridge of sand outside the bows of the ship; the hull at times working a good deal, particularly in her lower frame, the stanchions and bulkheads in the lower deck and holds having given way, and the chain-lockers displaced. She was in sand to the depth of eight or nine feet. The fore-yard was got over the side, and drifted to the beach. Many stores and provisions were collected, and taken to the encampment, with several articles of comfort, such as tea, which had escaped damp, wine, and cooking utensils; likewise the coppers for the ship’s company’s cooking.

A party had erected another large tent for the captain and officers, their previous tent being now appropriated to the warrant officers and stores. At one end of the officers’ tent was placed the dingy, now converted into a powder magazine. The state of our arms was particularly examined into in the course of the day, and the camp as much organised as circumstances had as yet permitted us. The Indians had been numerous throughout the day, but not unfriendly, and many exchanges had been made between them and the crew, of apples, fowls, and potatoes, for wet clothes, or any description of metal: still we were far from feeling easy about them, from their known savage and wild character. Several of the Cacique Cheuquante’s Indians arrived, with their long spears, and had collected close to us, as our accepted look-outs against their brethren the hostile Indians, who were in force beyond the neighbouring hills, but kept in check by an opposing party, under the influence of the government of Chili, in command of the Cacique Colissi. With Cheuquante’s Indians was the Spanish interpreter before mentioned,--Rafael Lobo, a half-bred Indian, who assumed an authority over them, and with whom we had afterwards much communication. A vast quantity of scattered articles was collected from the beach, and brought within the limits of our camp. An armed watch was at dusk placed round the tents, and twenty-five men, under the command of the second lieutenant, Mr. Collins, remained on board in charge of the wreck.

_May 23._--began with fog, and moderate northerly wind. The operation of tautening the cables was attended to as the wreck continued to be forced farther on the beach. Several more of the main-deck guns having been thrown overboard, assisted this. To aid the landing heavy articles, the lower yards were secured with hanging lashings to the stern, and pointed towards the beach. On these were lashed cross spars; and eventually a rough platform was established, which proved of infinite utility in our operation of clearing the wreck. The chain-pumps were occasionally worked to get at the store-rooms and holds, which had become flooded as high as the situation of the hull in the sand allowed, the depth of water in the holds averaging from seven to nine feet. Cheuquante’s Indians had increased their number of spears to twenty-seven, and with them were a numerous body of straggling Indians, who had collected from all directions, in numbers exceeding our force. Some apprehension was felt by the crew lest they might become victims to treachery. This immediately reached the captain’s ear, who, without loss of time, summoned the men and officers in camp around him, explained to them the better motives of the Indians, yet pointing out the propriety of observing distance with them, and that his orders would exclude them from communication with our camp; that his determination was to assume the best possible state of defence, and to maintain our position, in the event of an attack, until information might arrive from the consul at Concepçion, to govern our movements; and that, as British seamen, he felt confident they would show, by obedience and good conduct, their title to that character. This short and well-timed address dissipated their misgivings, and forcibly exemplified the general confidence which the mild exercise of authority is calculated to inspire. The men were satisfied, returned cheerfully to their tents, and their hardships and privations in camp, although extended to a period of seven weeks, never afterwards excited a murmur. The constant and laborious operation of landing the stores and provisions, the men being constantly wet through, from the breaking-in of the surf, may, at least by the naval reader, be comprehended: our exertions, however, enabled us to rely on our own resources for subsistence as well as defence. No sooner had we begun to examine our situation with reference to strengthen it, than Rafael Lobo expressed great apprehensions and alarm that an attack from the hostile Indians, or, as he termed them, “Enemigos” Indians, would be made upon us, and urgently advised our removing two leagues distant to the northward; for, said he, if we remained in our present position, they would have an advantage, from our exposed situation in a flat plain, and, to use his own meaning, the mounted Indians would ride over us. Captain Seymour consented, therefore, to send two officers with him, for the purpose of examining the ground; but the disadvantage of being at such a distance from the wreck was greater than any slight security that would be afforded us by changing our present position. He was therefore told by the captain his determination to defend the ground he now occupied; and with that view he proceeded to strengthen it by every means in his power.

An offer was made to Rafael Lobo to put up a small tent, at a little distance south of our camp, for shelter for himself and his armed party of Indians, which was accepted. It may not be here misplaced to give a slight sketch of the history and character of the savages amongst whom it had been our fate to be thrown. The population of the province of Arauco in Chili is by far the most warlike in the whole of South America: all the valour and experience of the Spanish arms, in the days of their greatest glory, failed in their obstinate and repeated endeavours to subdue the Indians of Arauco, who have maintained their independence to the present day, and are denominated by the Spaniards “The unconquerable Araucanos.” A beautiful epic poem in the Spanish language, written by Don Alonso de Ervilla y Zunija, published in 1590, describes the battles in which he was actively engaged. His descriptions of the wonderful valour and perseverance of those valiant Indians would appear exaggerated, did not their protracted and heroic resistance against the best men of Spain, at a period when every Spanish soldier was a hero, fully justify the truth of the narration. The greatest part of the Araucanos are, to the present day, engaged in a war of extermination with the Chilino Spaniards.

The Araucano Indian is strong-built and active, with long shaggy dark hair hanging all round his head, as low as his shoulders; and when attacking an enemy, it is allowed partially to cover his face: his person is on these occasions frequently smeared over with mare’s blood. His legs are bare to the knees; he wears a kind of short loose drawers, made of Indian manufacture, with a poncho of the same material; rides a horse of poor appearance, but great capacity, with large spurs of iron, if he can get them, secured to his bare heel with hide straps; his stirrups are only large enough to admit his great toe. Under his poncho, round his waist, is a large knife, often as broad as an English billhook; a set of bolas[1]; and attached to his saddle is his lasso. His spear is a long bamboo staff, with a sharp iron point on its end, which, from its length (twenty-five feet or more), is very flexible, and when in use is kept constantly moving, so that the eye of the adversary cannot discover the intended spot of thrust. The women are often mounted in a similar manner, with the addition of a sort of wrapper round the upper part of the legs. Their cunning is very great. They are very dirty; and they appear, in point of civilisation, a most degraded race of savages. Their principal food is potatoes, sometimes a little meat, frequently the flesh of mares; and they eat many of the numerous kinds of nuts and berries which abound on the hills in the interior of their country. Salt is an article much in request amongst them. It was not uncommon to see a group of them squatted round a grass net of boiled potatoes, with a lump of rock-salt, which they constantly passed from mouth to mouth, round their circle, each taking a hearty suck. The surf continued heavy, and, at intervals, affected the wreck a good deal. The evening closed in with foggy damp weather: the arms were examined, and the watches on board, as well as in the camp, mustered preparatory for the night.

_Sunday, May 24._--The necessary operation of heaving in on our stern-fasts was early attended to. The hull had, during the night, been labouring heavily, and was a good deal displaced from her position of yesterday: the wind was northerly, and the rollers broke so heavily, that the surf passed over its usual mark, and rolled far up towards the mound of sand on which we were encamped; moving the boats, and several articles which were laying, as was supposed, on a spot free from the approach of the surf. This day had been set apart as a day of rest; and we were about to make arrangements for performing divine service, when a party of horsemen were seen approaching from the direction of Arauco. They proved to be twelve men belonging to the militia established there, under the charge of Don Bernardino Hermosillo, a captain in that corps, who brought a letter for Captain Seymour from Mr. Jagoe, one of the officers despatched to Concepçion, reporting their progress, and that every facility would be given in the further course of their destination. It appeared that our shipmates were received at Arauco with great kindness by the Chilian authorities, who immediately ordered to Molquillo (the place of wreck) the above party, with a view, as the Spanish despatch of Don José Bustermente to the minister of the interior afterwards expressed, “to prevent robbery and extortion, and to advise and aid in resisting any attack that the Indians might be induced to make from the attraction this misfortune might present to them for pillage.” To send a force capable of ensuring protection to us was not in their power. This party was accompanied by the Cacique Pinoleo, his wife and daughter, with an escort of several Indians, all mounted; he presented the captain with a small ox, supposing us to be straitened for provisions. We offered them a little rum and water, and biscuit; and, after a long interview, the cacique and party retired to the tent of Rafael Lobo, and eventually to the hills. Pinoleo is a fine powerful-looking man, but understood to be very absolute and passionate. The captain had, in thanking him for his present, regretted his having nothing to offer him in return for his kindness; which caused him to rise, and, with great vehemence of expression, in his Indian language, to declaim against the supposition that, in our condition he should seek for a return. Pinoleo is the brother of Colissi, the cacique, who, with the aid of 100 carbineers of Arauco, was fighting and keeping in check Cadin, the hostile cacique of Jucapel and Tirua. He was the most civilised-looking of the caciques which we had occasion to meet. He wore a cloth cap with a gold-lace band; had a very large set of bolas round his waist, under his poncho, with the usual knife. His wife (who, we were informed, was one of many) and daughter were much ornamented with glass bead necklaces, and small silver plates, bits of brass or other metal, strung round their heads and necks: they wore, over their feet and legs, boots made of the skins of a colt’s legs, the hair inside, the knee part forming the heel of the foot, and the rest so shaped as to prove a convenient part of dress. A small handkerchief bound round their heads, and a band of braided beads in the form of a crown, confined their hair. They managed their horses equally as well as the men, riding in the same manner. The captain, and one or two of the officers, found a few presents for the ladies, which caused much pleasure to their party. We shortly after heard that, in a fit of drunkenness, Pinoleo had killed this wife, by knocking her on the head with his bolas: this occurred at the hut of a poor Indian, who had taken pains to entertain Pinoleo and party, as liberally as his means would allow, at supper. On this Indian he called for an indemnification for the loss of his wife, and the payment of a sum of dollars, which had led to the misunderstanding with his wife; but, not having it in his power to satisfy the cacique, he was forced to fly from his lands, his property of cattle becoming the prey of Pinoleo. Such is the present state of justice between man and man in the province of Arauco.

Our worthy shipmate, Mr. Sarjeant, the purser, with his intimate knowledge of the Spanish language, was the source of all our communication with the Chilinos, and, through an interpreter, with the Indians: his valuable assistance was of vital importance to all; but his patience was sadly tried, from the unceasing calls made on his attention as spokesman.

A tent was erected outside our line of camp for our new force of Chilinos; who zealously commenced the important service of establishing a line of scouts, in the direction of the hostile Indians, amongst the hills to the southward. Don Bernardino liked not the vicinity of our Indian look-out, aware, as he stated he was to us, of their frequent acts of treachery. To his party we spared a daily proportion of our provisions, which, in addition to an occasional forage to the northward, which some of them made, fully satisfied their wants. Through Don Bernardino we were enabled to obtain, from some one of the caciques, a bullock or two, which were driven down to our camp for beef; and from the hills were brought, by the daily straggling Indians, a moderate number of fowls, with potatoes and apples, for which the officers and crew bartered whatever they had to spare that attracted the rapacity of the Indian. The weather, towards night, became thick, the surf sounding loud and heavily. Our usual precautions were taken in watching through the night.

_May 25._--We were roused just before one this morning by Don Bernardino, who came to the camp with information, brought by a horseman just arrived, that the Indians had yesterday been fighting near us, and might shortly be expected; recommending us to be on our guard against their insidious mode of attack, particularly about daybreak, and, like them, “to sleep by day and watch by night.” The seamen and marines were instantly under arms. The captain made his disposition of our force, by putting the seamen in quarter watches, the marines forming a fifth body, each under an officer. Rockets and blue lights, and fire-balls, which we had made, were in readiness to throw amongst the horses. Fires were kept in, torches burnt, and all hands paraded the camp till daylight, when tea was made for the ship’s company, and an hour or two of rest permitted. The party on board, under the second lieutenant, were equally on the alert, firing an occasional great gun, double-shotted, to aid the demonstration of our watchfulness. The ship had been so uneasy during the night, that the best bower-anchor had been dropped, to steady her bow to the surf. Anxiety was expressed by the party of Chilinos for us to move from our present encampment to the entrance of a small river, twenty miles to the northward of us, as adding much to our safety from the Indians, from its defensible situation, and being the nearest spot from which any approach could be made from sea to afford us relief; the difficulties of a more distant land journey being impracticable under the circumstances in which we were placed, and the necessity of only moving with our arms, provisions, and several sick. Don Bernardino had, in the first moment of his arrival, urged our moving, pointing out the danger of remaining, not only on account of the hostile Indians, but the liability of the flat on which we were being overflowed by the sea, as well as flooded by the heavy rains which, at that season of the year, might be hourly expected to fall; also stating that, though they might possibly be able to collect horses and mules, to assist our movement, whilst the weather remained dry, yet that, as they must necessarily come from a great distance, and from the neighbourhood of Arauco, the first rains would drive them to their homes again, fearing the impassable state of the country. At night a strong armed watch was on the look-out in the camp, and scouts kept at the distance of a few miles, in the direction of the hostile Indians.

Light winds from the southward, with occasional fog. The evident necessity of strengthening our position, as a precaution against the liability of an attack from the Indians, caused all hands, after attending to the cables attached to the wreck, to be employed in forming such a barricade around our tents as might prove at least a check to the approach of cavalry. The result of this day’s labour, to those who witnessed it, will long be with proud satisfaction called to mind, as a proof of what the stimulated energies of British seamen can accomplish: they forgot their former fatigue, and, “turning-to” with a good will, boats, cordage, casks, and every description of stores useful for defence, were carried on their shoulders, or laboriously dragged over the heavy sand; and the fortified state of our camp, by digging trenches, constructing barriers and platforms for our two boat-guns, which we had got out of the ship, and bringing aft the long-bow guns on board, so as to flank our encampment, reflected the greatest credit on every individual who shared in this day’s labour. Our works were afterwards improved; and, though the known bravery of the Indians is not to be despised, they would have bought a severe lesson by attacking us. Still, regret must have attended any sacrifice in such bootless warfare; and we have just reason to conclude that their knowledge of our prepared state constituted our security from molestation. The surprise of the numerous straggling Indians, who were lookers-on at our laborious efforts, was evidently very great, and, it is certain, excited a strong feeling of respect towards us.

It has been already observed, that the seamen were divided into four quarter watches; three of them commanded by a lieutenant, and the master in charge of the fourth. A fair and equal division of the fire-arms was made: those who had no musket had a pistol, cutlas, or pike. Each quarter watch had their appointed station, to form in when called out under arms. The marines formed in the centre of the camp, and intended to act, as necessary, in support of the weakest point.