Chapter VII: Part 7

A person will not be long in Buenos Ayres without picking up acquaintances with its inhabitants; amongst whom are some very intelligent young men. I have sometimes thought it would give me pleasure to conduct one of them to England, to be--not exactly a Mentor (needing that myself), but a sort of escort to him in the modern Babylon, London; to explain its many varieties, from the mansions of the nobility, down to the _fondas_ of St. Giles's, where plates, knives, and forks, are chained to the tables, to prevent the customers walking off with them.

Common report asserts, that a strong French faction exists in Buenos Ayres. I will not pretend to offer an opinion upon this. Three years ago, I thought there was a decided leaning towards France: but I do not think there is so much now. If it were only for the sake of consistency, they must be ashamed of French politics, and the war in Spain, undertaken, as "an experiment to try the fidelity of the French army," according to Monsieur Chateaubriand, who asserted that a few months campaigning had done more good for France than years of peace. That a portion of the inhabitants may be attached to the French, is probable; their manners and religion assimilate more than ours. An Englishman is looked upon as a strange creature, different from the rest of the world. Other nations have not that characteristic of country (excepting the North Americans): a Frenchman, Italian, &c. mixes in the crowd as one of the country in which he resides, and is scarcely recognized as a foreigner; but nature seems to have placed her peculiar mark upon us, and, in conjunction with our law against expatriation, seems to assert, that "once an Englishman, always an Englishman." It would appear that strangers can almost discover us blindfold: often, on the darkest night, I have been accosted by boys and others as an Englishman.

The old Spanish part of the population, I dare say, dislike, and can never forgive us; we are ever the subject of their sneering remarks, and must expect to be so. That we can act from principles of pure honour, appears to them impossible; and they affect to trace self-interest at the bottom of all our professions, particularly as to the proceedings of the British government toward South America, which have gained us so much popularity with those states; and given British politics the lead, which indeed never stood more high in Buenos Ayres than at the present moment.

Englishmen are aware that very few like them as a nation, however they may respect them as individuals; and should our country be once on the wane, there would be plenty of helping hands to press us further down. It requires no extraordinary sagacity to account for this animosity. I am certain, however, we have numerous friends in Buenos Ayres. The rising generation have, in a manner, grown up with us. Time will wear away antiquated prejudices, and it will be seen that the calumnies which have been heaped upon our nation for ages, have not been deserved. Many fine young Englishmen reside in Buenos Ayres in mercantile and other employments: this portion associate a great deal with the inhabitants, with whom they have formed a perfect intimacy.

I do not expect emigration from England yet, to any great extent. The English people, in general, have a repugnance to live under foreign laws, and where the influence of a religion prevails which from childhood they have been taught to believe is inimical to their own. But, waving these considerations, they would have little else to complain of. Here is a rich soil, without any dread of sands and blights, as at the Cape of Good Hope; and if they cannot amass a fortune, they are sure to live, and that comfortably. Of the kind-hearted inhabitants I have already spoken: my countrymen may be assured, there are no foreigners with whom he will find himself so much at home as with the Buenos Ayreans. Therefore, I again repeat, that farmers with a small capital may gain a livelihood--perhaps, more; labourers are sure of constant employment; and mechanics are ever in request. The climate is congenial; the government are their sure protectors; and the people, in spite of every prejudice, esteem our nation. The age of revolutions, I think, is past; and, during their utmost violence, strangers were never molested. British vessels from Liverpool are continually arriving: and the cost of the passage is moderate.

Whenever fate conducts me from this country, I shall quit it with regret for any other place but my native home, and must always feel the most sincere esteem and gratitude towards the fine and generous people amongst whom I have so long resided, and where I have enjoyed happiness I little thought to experience out of Great Britain. I came to Buenos Ayres somewhat prejudiced, expecting to observe illiberality and bigotry, in place of the many amiable qualities of which I have found them possessed; and although I am as complete an home-sick Englishman as ever quitted his paternal shores, yet such is my attachment to Buenos Ayres, that I look up to it as my second home, and feel the deepest interest in its welfare.

COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO.

I visited Colonia del Sacramento for a short period. It lies east of Buenos Ayres, distant across the river thirty miles, and may sometimes be seen from the latter city: when this is the case, it denotes a change of weather to wind or rain.

Colonia is fortified both on the land and sea side: heavy guns are mounted on the lines, and it is capable of making a good defence. It is now in the possession of the Brazilian government. In December, 1821, during my abode there, it was occupied by the Portuguese, and 600 European troops constituted the garrison; they were all light infantry, and had served in the Peninsular war. I should suppose them a "crack regiment," for in appearance they fully equalled British troops: the uniform, brown jackets with black facings, and caps similar to our's. Most of the officers wore orders for services in Europe. The music consisted of bugle trumpets. Parade every morning: officers marched to their guard, colours trooped, and all the evolutions of the parade in St. James's Park. On Sundays they mustered in their best uniform, governor attending, for church. I could not but express my admiration, at the fine order and discipline of the troops, to a Portuguese officer. He answered, that whatever improvement had taken place, was entirely owing to British example and instruction; that we had found them a mob, and transformed them to decent soldiers. It will be long ere Spain can put forth such troops.

The officers, in Colonia, were good-looking gentlemanly men, speaking a little French and English, picked up in campaigning. Many of them had married, and preferred remaining in the country, when the regiment was ordered away, turning farmers, cattle dealers, &c.

The governor (Rodriguez) is a veteran of the Peninsula. Strangers, upon their arrival, are introduced to him. I found him working in his garden, at a cottage, near the town: he received me with great civility. How strangely the Spanish and Portuguese character has been represented to us at home! I cannot discover that assumption of dignity and pride attributed to them; on the contrary, they are of very amiable manners.

In Colonia, the soldiers were much esteemed, and industrious men. A comparison with those of Buenos Ayres would be invidious.

The officers must have had a monotonous life, in so dull a place as Colonia. They were great favourites with the ladies; and, in riding about the country, visiting, and dancing, whiled away their spare time.

The soldiers were quartered in different houses: their behaviour reminded me of the domestic character of our troops; I observed them nursing children, and busily employed about the house, with nothing of that swaggering consequence so usual with foreign troops. The Duke of Wellington discovered and rightly appreciated their merits, which have brought such renown upon the military annals of Portugal.

The world are accustomed to speak very slightingly of the Portuguese character as a nation; and when the deeds in the Peninsula have been mentioned, it has been said, "they have fought well, because British bayonets were at their backs." Those same British have done the Portuguese army the justice their bravery deserves; and the pitiful sneers of their calumniatos will fall harmless.

Our saucy sailors, too, in the plenitude of their impudence, must have their joke at the Portuguese: I remember, upon my first trip to sea, I was called from the cabin to look at a Portuguese man-of-war, which, they told me, had just hove in sight: I did look, but no vessel was to be seen. At last, the sailors pointed out to me a nautilus, with all sail set, skimming along the water which they asserted, was a Portuguese ship of the line.

Colonia has about 800 inhabitants. There are very few good houses: the greater part may be called huts, and are occupied by a mixture of South Americans, old Spaniards, Portuguese, and some half-dozen of Englishmen married to South-American ladies.

The governor's house is a very ordinary building. The streets are irregular; and the town altogether presents a most miserable appearance.

The town cannot afford a tavern; there is only a paltry billiard-room, in a public house, to which the Portuguese officers resorted.

The inhabitants of Colonia are very hospitable. I attended a birth-day feast, at one of their _quintas_; forty persons sat down to a dinner of beef, fowls, turkey, pastry, &c. The wine went merrily round, under a continual call for _bompas_ (bumpers); and after dinner, there was dancing. Some Portuguese officers were present, with their young Spanish wives.

At those dinner parties, they have a practice of throwing bits of bread at each other; and I felt some degree of surprise at first receiving those bread shots.

The captain of the port, Mr. Short, is an Englishman, belonging to the Portuguese navy, and is very attentive to his countrymen, whom business may call there: the same may be said of Mr. Bridgman, who has been many years resident in the town.

Colonia has but little trade. Small craft from Monte Video and Buenos Ayres, bound up the river to Paysan Lee, &c. and sometimes British and other vessels call in, to ship produce. A vessel can anchor within a quarter of a mile from the shore, in 3½ fathom water. The harbour is good, considering the bad anchorage of this river. There is a constant communication overland with Monte Video; the distance is about 150 miles. To load vessels of any burthen, craft are sent from Buenos Ayres. There is a dangerous reef near the harbour, on which a British brig (the _Euxine_) was wrecked, in March, 1824.

Our ships of war, stationed in the outer roads of Buenos Ayres, send their boats for brush-wood to the Island of St. Gabriel, near Colonia. The church is a conspicuous land-mark, and looks very much like an English country church, in its exterior; the interior has nothing of splendour to boast--no organ, or decorations; the service is confided to some poor old priests, who are fast approaching their earthly end.

If Colonia in itself has nothing attractive, the country around makes ample amends, being interspersed with small hills, dales, lakes, and agreeable rides--affording a fine field to the sportsman. The prospect of the river is uninterrupted, assuming the appearance of a perfect sea. Here is every facility for bathing: the water is clear and bracing. This side of the river, in point of scenery, is far beyond the Buenos Ayrean: an Englishman, however, regards it with almost equal indifference. If any particular view is pointed out, Sussex, Kent, Devonshire, crowd upon his thoughts; in comparison with which, the flat coast and few diminutive hills of this part of South America appear insignificant.

In the environs of Colonia are many comfortable _quintas_, or farm-houses. Provisions are dearer than in Buenos Ayres, and the beef is not so good.

In the neighbourhood are found the birds called cardinals, from having a tuft of feathers upon their heads shaped like a cardinal's hat. Their plumage is pretty; and they sing. Care is required to convey them safe to Europe.

The air plant is a singular production of this place; it grows on bushes, and will thrive in the open air, without the aid of mould.

I think it possible, a few years hence, that Colonia may start from its present inferiority, and take a station commensurate with the advantages it possesses as a port in the river Plate. It was occupied by a division of our army in 1807. History reminds us of our countryman, Penrose, and the mishaps he encountered here in 1762.

Lately, the church and several houses have been damaged, and some lives lost, by the blowing up of a magazine of gunpowder.

The occupation of the Banda Oriental by the Portuguese, and now by the Brazilians, has been the subject of a strong remonstrance from the government of Buenos Ayres. The original plea of the disturbed state of the country, and danger thereby to the neighbouring Brazilian provinces, no longer existing, Don Valentin Gomez[37] was sent to Rio Janeiro, but returned without accomplishing his object. The Brazilian flag still waves, and is likely to do so, from the fortresses of Monte Video, Colonia, Maldonado, and the adjacent country. I am not aware upon what arguments the Brazilians determine to keep their hold, excepting possibly that of "might constituting right." Buenos Ayres would seem its more natural protector. A portion of the inhabitants, it is likely, prefer that the country should remain under its present masters, satisfied with the manner in which authority has been exercised, and dreading revolutions.

[37] Senor Don Valentin Gomez belongs to the clergy: he has talents
and eloquence, and is withal a handsome man, with a face as rosy as an
English fox-hunter. As he was returning from Rio, in the British brig
_Agenoria_, the brig struck upon the English bank in the river Plate,
on the 11th March, 1824: there were eleven passengers on board.
The captain left the vessel to get assistance, which was promptly
dispatched from Buenos Ayres; but before any thing effectual could be
done, eleven persons had quitted the wreck, on four rafts: one was
picked up by a Portuguese vessel, containing five persons, who, after
enduring great misery, arrived at Rio Janeiro; of the other three
no tidings have since been heard. Those that remained on the wreck,
amongst whom was Mr. Gomez, and Mr. George Brittain, an Englishman,
were preserved: they, too, encountered great privations. This
misfortune caused great anxiety in Buenos Ayres, from the extensive
connections of Senor Gomez, and his secretary, Lucca, a young man of
considerable acquirements, and who was one that perished. The brig of
war, in the outer roads, was ordered to signalize, should she gain
information from vessels arriving; and, on doing so, the Fort fired a
gun, and hoisted a flag; crowds went to the beach. Upon Padre Gomez's
arrival, he was met by relations and friends, the females crying
for joy. The sufferings of the Padre had not blanched the roses in
his cheeks: he came on shore as blooming as ever. Blame has been
attributed to the captain: he had often navigated this river, and,
perhaps, was too confident. A Danish and American ship passed at the
time of the wreck, and have been much censured for not rendering
assistance.

The old Spanish part of the population bear no particular love to the Patriots: of the two, it is doubtful which they hate most, the Patriots or the English.

Buenos Ayres would find it difficult to dislodge the Brazilians by force, though there are advocates for this measure. Prudence, I trust, will guide their resolves; and if injustice has been perpetrated, let revenge be deferred until it can be securely taken. The separation, after centuries of fellowship, and falling under foreign dominion, must be galling.

If Buenos Ayres held the Banda Oriental, she would be a powerful state, which it is the policy of the court of Rio de Janeiro to prevent. Its fortresses, fine climate and country, improving population, influx of emigrants, under a strong government, would make even the empire of Brazil to look about them. However, such an event is distant; every thing leads me to think its present occupants will long keep possession.

APPENDIX.

RULES of the PORT of Buenos Ayres; DUES to be paid by Foreign and
National Vessels; PENALTIES to which those are subject who violate
the Laws of the Police, or who attempt to destroy in any manner
the line of Buoys established on the Ortiz and Chico Banks, Mount
Santiago, and Point Lara, or those which the Government may
hereafter establish on other points of the river for the safety
of navigators.

RULES OF THE PORT.

Article 1. The guard ship, in the inner roads, on observing a vessel anchor in the outer roads, will hoist a red flag at the mizen mast, as a signal to the captain of the vessel which has arrived, to proceed towards the shore in his boat.

2. The said captain, taking with him his papers, will go on board the guard ship.

3. On the arrival of the boat, the commandant of the guard ship will desire her to anchor astern, and will then hoist a yellow flag, for the health boat to come and pass the visit.

4. The commandant of the guard ship must not permit any communication between his crew and those of the boat, until after the health visit.

5. The captain will be interrogated by the health and war visit; and if he does not answer truly, he will be tried by the laws of the country.

6. If the weather will not permit the health-boat to pass the visit, the commandant of the guard-ship will wait till they make signals from the shore. Those signals will generally be, to permit the boat of the vessel which has arrived to disembark on the quay. If, nevertheless, the weather be too boisterous, and the boat cannot come on shore, the commandant of the guard-ship may permit the crew to go on board him, and then the guard-ship herself will be considered in a state of quarantine, and must not communicate with any person, be who they may, until after the health visit has passed.

7. When the health visit has fulfilled her office, the commandant of the guard-ship will strike the red and yellow flags, mentioned in the Articles 1st and 3d.

8. Having permission to communicate with the shore, captains will present themselves at the Captain of the Port's office, where they will fully inform him of the police of the port.

9. On arriving at the anchorage of Point Lara, captains who wish to enter the port of Ensenada, will hoist a flag at the mizen-mast, proceed to the vicinity of the fortress, and there wait the health and war visit. They are expressly forbidden to communicate with any person, under the penalties established by the quarantine laws.

10. Ships of war are an exception; they are not required to conform to the above articles.

11. All ships of war, in which the crew may be attacked by a contagious disorder, will hoist a yellow flag, and be subject to the laws of quarantine.

ANCHORAGE DUES.

For foreign vessels, by the ton, four reals.

For national vessels, from foreign parts, two reals.

The dues mentioned in the two preceding articles must be paid, half on arrival, and half on the departure of the vessel.

National and foreign vessels, which neither take nor receive cargo, will only pay half the dues mentioned above.

Foreign vessels will pay, besides, on their entry, twelve dollars for the health visit, and twelve dollars more upon their departure for the health certificate.

National vessels only pay half for the visit and the health certificate.

The charges for pilots are included in the anchorage dues.

POLICE OF THE PORT.

Article 1. Every vessel anchored in the port of Buenos Ayres must mutually render each other assistance, in case of drifting, or other risk of average. Those who refuse will be subject to the sentence and penalties prescribed by law.

2. In consequence of the little depth of water, it is expressly enjoined to every vessel anchored in the port to have on its anchors correspondent buoys, as vessels coming in and going out, not seeing the buoys, run a risk of striking on the anchors. Those who fail using precaution in this respect will be responsible for the averages and losses that may result from it.

3. Vessels which have not buoys will give notice to the Captain of the Port, who will send some, with a pilot to place them. The anchor must not be raised without a permission to that effect.

4. At the moment of anchoring, the regular pilots will take care to inform the captains, that they may provide themselves with every thing necessary for the anchorage of their vessels; and if the pilot discovers an infraction of this article, he will immediately inform the Captain of the Port, under the penalty of being himself punished with all the rigour prescribed by law, as negligence in this respect may cause the greatest losses and averages.

5. If, in consequence of bad weather, the anchors and cables of a vessel fail to hold, and it can be proved that those same cables and anchors do not correspond with the size of the vessel, or that the cables were in bad condition, then the said vessel shall be responsible for the averages that may be occasioned thereby.

6. Every vessel from foreign parts, who moor themselves in the port, without asking for a pilot at the Captain of the Port's office, will be, by this proceeding, responsible for all the averages which may be occasioned thereby, and will have no right of claim, in case they suffer damage themselves.

7. Every vessel anchored, who may have its long boat or boat astern, and, seeing another vessel under sail, neglects to haul them up out of the way, not only will forfeit the right to claim in case of average, but will even be responsible for that which such negligence may occasion.

8. It is expressly forbidden to every vessel in the port to throw any thing into the water, of their ballast, or any other object that does not float, under the penalties prescribed by law.

9. It is forbidden to each vessel, under any pretext whatever, except at the moment of her arrival, to fire salutes, in the inner roads at least, without having first obtained permission of the Captain of the Port. The captain of a vessel who infringes upon this article, will be placed at the disposal of the government.

10. Boats belonging to vessels anchored in the outer and inner roads must go on board one hour after sun-set.

11. All boats found on shore after the evening gun, and until the morning gun has been fired, will be dismantled, and the crew punished according to the case and circumstances.

PENALTIES TO WHICH THOSE ARE LIABLE WHO DESTROY IN ANY MANNER THE LINE OF BUOYS ESTABLISHED BY THE GOVERNMENT.

Article 1. To throw a kedge anchor, or hold on in any manner whatever to the said buoys, the punishment of the galleys.

2. Those who take them away, or change their places, unless it be by the authority of government, will be punished with all the rigour of the law, even to the penalty of death.

3. They will punish equally those who make a fire on the said buoys, or by any other means attempt to destroy them.

4. Every captain will receive, on his arrival, a copy of these regulations; the cost of which will be included in the dues of the port.

The Government approves the above regulations, orders them to be printed, and fixes the price of each copy at two reals, to be distributed according to the tenor of the last article.

(Signed) HERAS.
By order of the Government,
(Signed) IGNACIO ALVAREZ.

_Buenos Ayres, July,_ 1824.

* * * * *

INSTRUCTIONS for sailing from the Outer Roads of Buenos Ayres to Monte
Video, by the North and South of the Chico Bank.

_By the North, or Main Channel._

1. From three fathoms in the outer roads, steer E. by S. by the compass, until Point Santiago of the Ensenada of Barragan bears S.W. by the compass. Off this point, you will find from 5½ to 6 fathoms of water, according to the state of the river.

2. When the above-mentioned point bears S.W. steer E.N.E. until you make the Ortiz Bank, which will be when you lessen your water to 3 or 3½ fathoms. This bank may be approached, on the South side, without danger, as the water diminishes gradually. It is a very good guide to navigate in the night, or in thick weather.

3. From 3 fathoms on the Ortiz Bank, steer S.E. by the compass, until you make Point Indio. In this track, you will deepen your water to 5 or 5½ fathoms, crossing the middle channel, according to the state of the river. Passing the middle of the channel, the water diminishes gradually, according as you near the land.

4. When you think you are about 7, 8, or 9 miles from the land, which will be in 3¼ or 3½ fathoms of water, steer E.S.E. and coast it along.

5. When Point Indio bears S.W. by the compass, steer N.E. by E. until you see Monte Video, which may be seen about 30 or 33 miles distant from the top of a common-sized vessel. Keeping your course N.E. by E. you will continue in 3½ fathoms of water, until you find yourself 6 or 7 leagues from Monte Video.

6. When you find 5 fathoms of water, you will be 9 or 10 miles from the harbour of Monte Video.

From the said 5 fathoms to the harbour, it will lessen to 2½.

_By the South of the Chico Bank._

1. From 3 fathoms in the outer roads, steer E. by S. as before, until you have 6 fathoms off Ensenada.

Before you lose sight of the town of Quilmes, you can see Point Lara, which is easily known by a grove on the side of the river.

S.E. of Point Lara, there is a large _ombu_ tree on Mr. Wright's _stancia_, distant about 2½ miles.

E.S.E. of Point Lara is the Point and Mount of Santiago, easily seen at the distance of 7 miles.

2. Having passed the bank of Ensenada, which runs out about 5 miles from Point Lara to the N.E. by N. steer S.E. by compass, until you find yourself 5 or 6 miles from land.

3. When 5 or 6 miles from land, steer E.S.E. by compass, to keep along the shore.

Before you lose sight of Point Santiago, you will see the _ombu_ tree of the Balandra to the E.S.E. distant about 14 miles, and is one of those nearest the river.

From this _ombu_, the N.W. point of the Chico Bank bears N. 30° E. Keeping an E.S.E. course, after you have run a short distance, you will see Point Atalaya, resembling two mounts. Keeping still on the same course, you will see many _ombu_ trees; and when you have run about six miles, you will see a large grove of them, where lies the town of Magdalene. The church of Magdalene is easily discovered, having two steeples, the largest at the east.

From this church, the S.W. point of the Chico Bank bears N. 15° E. by the compass.

Between the Chico Bank and the land, the least water you find is between the S.E. point and the coast; when the river is low, you have generally about 17 feet.

Having passed the church, you may keep farther from the shore, as you have likewise passed the Chico Bank; and keeping on your course E.S.E. you will see four _ombu_ trees, being the last you will see.

After passing the last _ombu_ trees, the shore is level, with shrubs, grass, turfs, and junks, until you make Point Indio, about 15 miles distant.

Point Indio is low level land, with only one tree on it; and to the S.E. you can see two large groves of tallow wood and espinillos.

These mounts are near Point Piedras and Point Indio.

From Point Indio, the S.E. part of the Ortiz Bank bears N. 30° E. by compass, distant about 14 miles.

* * * * *

INSTRUCTIONS for sailing from Monte Video to Buenos Ayres, when
passing by the Channels to the North and to the South of the Chico
Bank.

_By the North side of the Chico Bank._

1. Being athwart the points which form the Port of Monte Video, steer to the S.W. of the compass for the space of thirty miles.

2. Then change to the W.S.W. of the compass, until you can make out la Punta del Indio, or Point Indian.

3. Having made Cape Indian, steer to the W. of the compass, until the bearing of the said Cape be at S.S.W. distant 7 or 8 miles.

4. As soon as you have the Cape Indian to the S.S.W. of the compass, steer to the N.W. in order to make the two first buoys of the Ortiz Bank, which you will approach at the distance of about one or half a mile, being cautious to have 15 feet water, in case there should be little water in the river.

5. Here, you will change your course to the W. of the compass, taking care to pass to the distance of the two last buoys, which are to the N.W. of Chico Bank; for if the river should ebb with rapidity, and there should be a strong current on the larboard-tack, you would run the risk to pass too near. Continue to steer to the W. by which means you will make out Ensenada, and the Point Lara, which last you will recognise by a tufted tree, called the _ombu_, which is to the S.E. of this point; and on the brink of the river, before you are out of sight of Point Lara, you will perceive a small wood of _ombus_, situated on the hill of the village of Quilmes; afterwards you will see the towers of Buenos Ayres, and the vessels anchored in the roads, towards which you will direct yourself.

_From Punta del Indio, or Cape Indian, passing to the Southward of the Chico Bank._

_Observation, to know La Punta del Indio, or Cape Indian._--Making sail to the N.W. at a distance of about 7 or 8 miles from La Punta de Piedras, or Point Piedras, you observe, to the N.W. of this Point, two woods of _talas_ (American trees), visible at a distance of about 7 miles from the said Cape.

To the N.W. of this wood of _talas_, there is a plain, which extends about 4 miles. You will perceive then a small wood, or copse, remarkable by a tree of _tala_, which forms the Point of Cape Indian.

When you have made the Cape Indian to the S.S.W. distance about 7 to 8 miles, steer to the W.N.W. of the compass; you will discover three _ombus_ (tufted trees) upon the hills, upon the land of the Magdalene, distant about one league from the river. Continuing your course, you will observe six _ombus_, situated in the Village of Magdalene, and which appear to be on the same line; at the fifth _ombu_ you will perceive the Church, with its two little towers; that of the E. is larger than that of the W. Observe, that the first buoy, placed to the S.E. of the Bank Chico, is to the N. 15° E. of the compass from this church.

In making the first _ombu_ S.S.W. of the compass, at a distance from land of about 6 miles, you will see, with a spy-glass, to the N.W. in running over the horizon, and of the elevation of an ordinary-size vessel. When the weather is clear, and a smooth sea, you will see just 5 miles distance, the buoy which is placed upon the Bank Chico, and upon a bottom of 3 fathoms. To the W.N.W. of this buoy, distance of 3 miles, there is only 1½ fathom. In passing one mile to the S. of this same buoy, you will discover another to the W. ¾ N.W. distant 4 miles. When you have passed the second buoy, you can sail without any fear to the W.N.W. at a distance from land of about 7 or 8 miles; because the Bank Chico pointed out by the second buoy remains to the N.N.W. of the compass.

Passing the two buoys situated to the S.E. of the Bank Chico, and continuing to sail W.N.W. you will distinguish several _ombus_ situated upon some hills. When you close in the two small woods of _talas_, upon the side of the river, then you close in to the Point of the Atalaya, and arrive to the small wood, or copse of _talas_, you will have passed the Bank Chico.

Leaving the copse of _talas_, the coast is very low, and presents small regions of sand, to a distance of about 6 miles; that which follows, and which is more raised, is the Forest of Santiago of the Ensenada: to the end of this Forest, there is three leagues of length; it is the Point, or Cape de Santiago of Ensenada of Barragan: arrived there, follow the same directions that have been given in the first course from Monte Video to Buenos Ayres.

_Observations._

In the passage from Monte Video to the Southern Coast, the bottom is bad, as well as in the environs of Cape Indian.

From Cape Indian, as far as the first _ombu_, situated upon the land of the Magdalene, you must not anchor nearer than 6 or 7 miles from the shore, because there is a ridge of rocks, which extends itself to more than 5 miles, and on which anchors will not hold.

_Variation of Depth of Water from Monte Video to Buenos Ayres, between the Banks Ortiz and Chico._

Leaving Monte Video, having the Cape to the S.W. you will find 2½ or 3 fathoms of water; at 9 miles, you will find 5 fathoms; at 18 miles from thence, you will not find more than 3½ fathoms; at 30 miles farther, you will have a quarter of a fathom less; proceed 33 miles farther, and the sounding lead will give you once more 3½ fathoms; in short you will find the same depth of 3½ fathoms, until you find yourself within six miles of the Southern Coast.

From Cape Indian, with the 3½ fathoms, steering to N.W. towards the Bank Ortiz, the sounding lead will give you from 4½ to 5 fathoms, according as the river flows or ebbs; when you do not find more than 3 fathoms, then you will be on the brink of the Bank Ortiz.

From the 3 fathoms from the brink of the Bank Ortiz, steer to the W. towards Buenos Ayres; your soundings will increase progressively from 5½ to 6 fathoms, according as the river is either low or high.

At the commencement of the 6 fathoms, you will make the Point of Santiago of Ensenada to the S.W. of the compass.

This same depth of water continues, until you find yourself N. & S. with the Point or Cape Lara. Keep always steering to the W. of the compass, as before mentioned, and the soundings will diminish to 3 fathoms. If, during this passage, the river ebbed, you would have 3 fathoms from the Village des Quilmes.

By the course, and the differences of soundings above-mentioned, you will be able to navigate by night, or when the weather will not permit you to make out the marks.

Between the two Buoys which are placed to the N.W. of the Bank Chico and Ortiz, you will find 5½ and 6 fathoms, according as the river is high or low.

Between the Banks Chico and Ortiz, the anchorage is good, and the anchors hold tolerably well.

In the environs of the Bank Ortiz, vessels are less subject to part from their anchors, because the bottom is mud and sand.

From the Cape Indian to Buenos Ayres, the currents flow from the E.S.E. to the W.N.W.; their rapidity is much about from 1½ to 2 miles an hour.

In tacking, when the wind is contrary, a great deal of way can be made by means of the currents.

From the S.E. extremity of the Bank Ortiz, to the S.E. extremity of the Bank Chico, as you gradually proceed up the river, you will find yourself nearer the Bank Ortiz than the land; you will keep taking from 3 fathoms along the chain of rocks which run along the coast, until 3 short fathoms on the side of the Bank Ortiz. Observe, that during this tack, when you find yourself in 4 or 4½ fathoms, you are then nearer the bank than the land.

Having doubled the Bank Ortiz, you can safely proceed until you have 3 fathoms of water; for the depth diminishes gradually.

In tacking about between the Bank Chico and Ortiz, you can, as before said, run your tacks upon all the points of the Bank Ortiz as long as you are in 3 fathoms water. But in the tacks which you run upon the Bank Chico, you must put about ship as soon as the sounding line does not give you more than 4 fathoms, because this bank is full of pointed rocks, particularly at the place where the second buoy is placed, upon the point from the N.W. to the S.E.; it is also equally rocky from the first buoy to the S.E. as far as three miles to the W.N.W. because on the two points you find no more than 1½ fathom water.

* * * * *

POSITIONS of the TEN BUOYS placed on different Banks in the River Plate.

_Upon the Bank Chico there are Four Red Buoys._

1st. Is placed at the S.E. extremity of the Bank Chico, on a bottom of 3 fathoms. From this Point, you make the Magdalene Church at the S. 15° W. of the compass.

2d. Is placed at the S. extremity of the Bank, on a bottom of 3 fathoms. It is situated at the W. ¼ N.W. of the first, distant 4 miles: you make the Church, at 15° E.

3d. Is situated to the N. ¼ N.W. of the second, distant 4 miles, upon a bottom of 1½ fathom; it is in the middle of the Bank. You make the Point of Atalaya to the S.W. of the compass.

4th. Is placed at the N.W. extremity of the Bank, on a bottom of 3 fathoms, to the W.N.W. of the third, distant 4 miles. You make the Point of Atalaya to the S. 24° W. of the compass, distant 10½ miles.

_Upon the Bank Ortiz are placed Four Black Buoys._

1st. Is at the S.E. extremity of the Bank Ortiz, on a bottom of 3 fathoms. From the buoy, you make Cape Indian to the S.W. ¼ S. of the compass: you will, at the same time, see, from the deck of a vessel of an ordinary size, and on a clear day, the buoy, and the coast of Cape Indian.

2d. Is at the S. extremity of the Bank Ortiz, on a bottom of 3 fathoms, and to the N.N.E. of the buoy of the S.E. of the Bank Chico.

3d. Is placed upon the side of the Bank Ortiz, on a bottom of 3 fathoms, to the N.N.E. of the middle of the Bank Chico.

4th. Finds itself upon the Bank Ortiz, by 3 fathoms, and to the N. of the one of the N.W. of the Bank Chico.

_To the Ensenada de Barragan, on the Banks of Santiago and Lara, are placed Two Black Buoys._

1st. Black Buoy is upon the Bank of Santiago, in 3 fathoms: the bearing of this buoy has the Point of the Santiago to the S. 28° E. and Point Lara to the S. 53° W. of the compass.

2nd. Black Buoy is placed upon the Bank Lara, on a bottom of two fathoms, on the bearing of Point Lara to the S.E. ¼ S. and the Point of Santiago to the S. 63° E.

These two buoys are placed to warn Navigators to pass to the Northward.

_Observations._

The Bank Chico is not parallel with the S. coast, because, from the first buoy of S.E. you take the bearing of the third buoy to the N. 42° W. of the compass. This bank is nine miles in length.

This Bank forms to the N. a pretty considerable bay; it extends itself from the buoy of the S.E. to a distance of 4 miles to the N.W. In the middle of this bay, you have 3½ fathoms; but in steering to the S.S.W. of the compass, at a distance of 150 fathoms, you will only find 1½ fathom.

In the S. part, this bank forms another bay; it extends itself from the buoy of the N.W. as far as that of the Point of the S. in the direction of the S.E. ¼ S. distance about 6 miles; and in all this bay, in following the edge of the bank, there is 3½ fathom water.

THE END.

Printed by R. Macdonald, 30, Great Sutton Street, Clerkenwell, London.

* * * * *

Transcriber's Note: Some page numbers listed in the Table of Contents
have been changed to more accurately denote the appropriate page. No
attempt has been made to standardize spelling inconsistencies within
this text. However, a few printing errors have been amended and noted
within the following table.

Page | Original Word | Amended Word
-----+---------------+-------------
vii | Processsion | Procession
11 | Saliors | Sailors
20 | Dominician | Dominican
38 | subscriber. | subscriber.[9]
48 | bilghted | blighted
130 | musc | music
139 | Gregogorio | Gregorio
163 | orignal | original