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Chapter II: Part 2

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Beating in an abundance of cold air is very essential in the making of good gems, as it is this that makes them light. Cold air is preferable to warm air, as it expands more when heating.

Gems are also better when baked in iron pans than in tin, as the iron retains the heat better, and bakes the gems more evenly. The irons should be heated and oiled before the batter is dropped into them.

Having the oven hot from the first is also essential, as a crust will then be formed immediately, and the air which has been beaten into the batter will thus be prevented from escaping. They should be placed in the oven so as to bake on the top first, and afterward on the bottom. These points should be carefully observed. Gems are best served hot. They should be broken open, and never cut with a knife, as this makes them heavy.

GRAHAM GEMS, NO. 1

Place the gem irons in the oven or on the range to heat. Mix salted Graham flour with cold milk or water to a batter thick enough to drop, beating vigorously for ten minutes to beat in the air. Butter the gem irons, and fill each cup nearly full of the batter. Put in a hot oven, and bake until done.

GRAHAM GEMS, NO. 2

Beat separately the yolk and white of an egg. Add to the beaten yolk two cupfuls of sweet, rich milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and stir well together; then sift in one and one-half cups of Graham flour, and a scant cup of white flour, beating vigorously meanwhile. Continue to beat until the mixture is light and foamy throughout, and full of air bubbles; then stir in gently the stiffly beaten white of the egg. Have the gem irons thoroughly heated, slightly butter them, drop in the batter with a spoon, and bake in a quick oven.

OATMEAL GEMS

Beat separately the yolk and white of an egg. To the beaten yolk add a cupful of well-cooked oatmeal mush, and a half cup of milk or thin cream. Beat together thoroughly. Continue to beat while adding a cupful of white flour and a pinch of salt, then fold in lightly the stiffly beaten white of the egg. Have the gem irons heated hot, slightly butter, drop in the batter, filling the little cups nearly full, and bake in a quick oven until a light brown.

CORN-MEAL GEMS

Stir well together one and one-half cupfuls of milk, and the yolks of two eggs previously beaten. To this add two cupfuls of corn-meal, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and one cupful of white flour. Beat thoroughly, then stir in lightly the whites of the eggs previously beaten to a stiff froth, and bake as above.

GRANULATED WHEAT GEMS

Mix together one cupful each of cold water and milk, and one-half teaspoonful of salt. Then add gradually two and one-half cupfuls of fine granulated wheat, beating continuously. Beat vigorously for ten minutes, then drop by spoonfuls into thoroughly heated, buttered gem irons, beating the batter briskly several times while dipping it in. Bake at once in a very hot oven.

RICE CAKES

Moisten one cup of well-cooked rice with two tablespoonfuls of cream or rich milk; add one tablespoonful of sugar, and mix in enough flour to make it hold together. Form into cakes one-third of an inch thick, and bake in a hot oven. When done, split open, and serve with maple or lemon sirup. To make lemon sirup, see page 40.

BREAKFAST ROLLS

To three slightly heaping cups of sifted Graham flour add a little salt, and one cup of milk or thin cream; cream is better. Stir the milk or cream into the flour, mixing it well with the flour as fast as poured in. Knead thoroughly, then divide the dough into three portions, and with the hands roll each portion over and over on the molding-board until a long roll from an inch to an inch and a half in thickness is formed. Cut into two- or three-inch lengths, and bake at once in a hot oven, in a baking pan dusted with flour, or better, on a perforated piece of sheet-iron made for the purpose, placing the rolls a little distance apart. Bake until a light brown. When done, do not place one on top of another.

Flour kneaded into cold Graham flour, oatmeal, or corn-meal mush makes very good breakfast rolls.

STICKS

Make the same as breakfast rolls, only rolling the dough to about the size of the little finger, and cutting into three- or four-inch lengths.

FRENCH ROLLS

Make a sponge at night of one-half cake of dry or one-half cup of good liquid yeast, the beaten white of one egg, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little salt, and three cups of warm milk or water, and flour sufficient to make a soft dough. In the morning knead well and let rise again. When light, roll out the dough to about three fourths of an inch in thickness; cut into about four-inch squares with a sharp knife, butter the edges, and roll each corner up and over to the center; place on buttered tins, allow the rolls to become very light, and bake in a moderately hot oven. The sponge for this can be set in the morning if the yeast is very quick.

TO GLAZE ROLLS

When ready to bake, brush the rolls or biscuit lightly with milk; or, when nearly baked, brush with the yolk of an egg to which has been added two spoonfuls of cold water and half a teaspoonful of sugar. Return to oven till done.

MARYLAND OR BEATEN BISCUIT

Mix five cupfuls of white flour, one-half cupful of vegetable oil or butter, and one teaspoonful of salt to a very stiff dough with one cupful of cold water. Knead for twenty minutes, using no more flour for the molding-board; then beat hard with a wooden mallet or hammer for twenty minutes longer, until the dough is flat and of even thickness throughout; sprinkle over a little flour, fold half of the dough back evenly over the other half, and beat quickly around the edges, to keep in the air. Continue beating until the dough is brittle, and will snap if a piece is broken off quickly. Pinch off into pieces the size of a small walnut, work smooth, flatten on top with the thumb, prick with a fork, place on perforated tins a little distance apart, and bake in a moderate oven for nearly an hour, or until dry and brittle throughout.

WHOLE WHEAT CRISPS

Take one cupful of rich cream, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a pinch of salt, two cupfuls, or enough to make a stiff dough, of fine granulated, whole wheat flour. Beat well, and knead for fifteen minutes, first with a spoon, until the batter becomes too thick, and then with the hands. Roll out as thin as wafers, cut into shapes with a biscuit cutter, and bake on floured tins in a very hot oven.

GRAHAM WAFERS

Stir together one cupful each of sifted Graham flour and white flour, one tablespoonful each of butter and sugar, and a saltspoonful of salt; then mix with enough cold water to make a stiff dough. Roll out very thin, cut into small squares, or with a cake cutter, and bake on tins in a quick oven.

FRUIT BISCUIT

Make a dough with one cupful of cold, sweet cream or rich milk, three cupfuls of sifted Graham or white flour, and a little salt. Knead thoroughly, and divide into two portions. Roll each quite thin, then spread one with currants, stoned dates, figs, or seedless raisins, chopped fine, and place the other one on top; press down with the rolling-pin, cut into oblong squares with a knife, and bake.

CRESCENTS

Make a dough, using the recipe for White Bread. When ready to form into loaves, work into it two tablespoonfuls each of butter and sugar; roll out into a sheet half an inch thick, cut into six-inch squares, then divide diagonally, forming triangles; brush each lightly with water, and roll up, beginning at the longest side; place on oiled pans, turning the ends toward each other in the form of a crescent. When very light, brush with milk, and bake in a quick oven for about twenty minutes.

RUSKS

Make a sponge at night with one cupful of sugar, one cupful of scalded milk, cooled to lukewarm, one-half cupful of butter, two eggs, one cake of dry or one-half cup of good liquid yeast, and sufficient flour to make a drop batter. Set in a warm place to rise. In the morning knead well, and when risen again, mold into the form of biscuits, place a little distance apart on buttered tins, and brush over with the beaten white of an egg sweetened; let stand until light, and bake.

PLAIN BUNS

Beat together one-fourth cup of lively yeast, one cup of sweet milk, previously scalded and cooled to lukewarm, one-half teaspoonful of salt, two cups of warm flour, and set in a warm place to rise. When very light, work into the dough one-half cup of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of butter. Knead well for ten minutes, using enough flour to make a soft dough. Shape into the form of biscuits a little larger than an egg; place on tins slightly buttered, and set in a warm place to rise. When very light, bake in a moderately hot oven. The tops may be brushed over with the sweetened beaten white of an egg while baking, or sprinkled with moist sugar when taken from the oven.

FRUIT BUNS

Make the same as plain buns, adding one-half cup of raisins or currants just before kneading and forming into buns.

RICE WAFFLES

Set a sponge at night with two cupfuls of sweet milk, scalded and cooled to lukewarm, one tablespoonful of butter, a pinch of salt, two-thirds of a cupful of boiled rice, three cupfuls of flour, and one-fourth cup of liquid yeast. Beat the batter hard for five or six minutes, and set in a warm place to rise. In the morning add two well-beaten eggs, and stir well together. Bake on a hot, buttered waffle iron. If this is not at hand, have the gem irons well heated, slightly butter to prevent sticking, and drop in the batter. Place in a hot oven so the top will bake first, and bake to a rich brown color. Very nice for breakfast.

PUFFS

To two cups of milk add a little salt and the yolks of two eggs well beaten; then sift in, a little at a time, and beating meanwhile, three small cups of flour. Beat until light, then stir in gently the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs, and bake in hot gem irons.

FRUIT LOAF, NO. 1

Take enough good bread dough for one loaf, add one cupful of brown sugar, two tablespoonfuls of butter, and one cupful of raisins, previously washed and dried. Knead well and let rise; then knead again, and place in a bread pan, let rise until light, and bake in a moderate oven.

FRUIT LOAF, NO. 2

Make a sponge of one and one-half cups of warm milk or water, one-half cup of good yeast, the beaten white of one egg, one tablespoonful each of butter and sugar, a little salt, and flour sufficient to make a soft dough. Let rise till light; then knead well and let rise again. When light, roll out to about one inch in thickness, spread over with chopped dates, or raisins, or currants which have been previously washed and dried; roll up and form into a loaf, let rise, and bake.

COFFEE CAKES

Take two cupfuls of bread dough (made with milk) when ready for the pans; put into a deep dish and work in four tablespoonfuls of cocoanut or vegetable oil or butter, four tablespoonfuls of sugar, the stiffly beaten white of one egg, and enough flour to make a fairly stiff dough. Knead well, and roll out into a long strip about nine inches in width, three feet in length, and one fourth of an inch thick; spread over this four or five tablespoonfuls of oil or melted butter, omitting about two inches at the farther end; beginning at end nearest, roll up like jelly roll; cut into slices an inch thick; place a little distance apart on tins sprinkled with sugar; set in a warm place, and when very light, brush over with oil; sprinkle with a little sugar, and bake. If desired, ground cinnamon or grated nutmeg may be sprinkled over the dough before rolling it up.

FLANNEL CAKES

Heat three cupfuls of milk to boiling; put into a crock one cupful of corn-meal and two tablespoonfuls of butter, then pour in the scalding milk; beat well, allow to cool to lukewarm, then stir in one tablespoonful of sugar, two of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and one-half yeast cake dissolved in one-third cup warm water; beat well, and set to rise overnight. Bake on a hot griddle.

CORN-MEAL BATTER CAKES

To two cups of cold corn-meal mush, add one cup of sifted flour, and a pinch of salt; beat well the yolks of two eggs, to which add two-thirds cup of milk, and stir into the mush; beat thoroughly until light and smooth, adding a little more milk if necessary, to make the batter of proper consistency. Then gently stir in the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and bake in small cakes on both sides on a griddle, slightly buttered, or better still on a soapstone griddle, in which case use no oil nor butter on it. Serve hot.

BUCKWHEAT PANCAKES

In the evening take two quarts of warm water, add one-fourth cup of good yeast, a teaspoonful of salt, and buckwheat flour enough to make a good batter. If desired, a cupful of corn-meal or a few spoonfuls of white flour may be used instead of all buckwheat. Beat well and set to rise. In the morning thin the batter with a little warm water, if necessary, and bake on a hot griddle. If cakes are desired for several mornings, the batter may be kept going by leaving at least a cupful after each baking, and adding the necessary warm water and buckwheat flour each evening as at first.

LENTIL FRITTERS

To a pint of lentil soup (left-over soup will do), add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and sift in enough flour, a little at a time, beating thoroughly, to make a good batter. Then add the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs, drop by spoonfuls on a hot buttered griddle, and brown on both sides.

CORN FRITTERS

To each quart of raw sweet corn (a dozen nice ears), grated from the cob, add the beaten yolks of three eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, and one and one-half cups of fine bread or cracker crumbs, or enough to make a batter just stiff enough to drop from a spoon. Then stir in the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs, and drop with a spoon on a hot, oiled, or soapstone griddle. Serve hot.

USES FOR STALE BREAD

Whole slices of stale bread, if in good condition, may be steamed or used for toast. Crumbs, crusts, and broken pieces not suitable for this purpose may be placed in a pan, and put into a slow oven until thoroughly dried (not browned), then ground in a mill, or rolled on a breadboard with the rolling-pin, and put away in covered jars for use. This will be useful for making corn-meal cutlets or anything that is to be rolled in crumbs, dipped in egg, and browned.

POTATO YEAST

Put to cook six medium-sized potatoes in two quarts of hot water. Tie a handful of hops in a cloth, and boil with the potatoes during the last ten minutes. When done, take potatoes and hops from the water, leaving the water over the fire. Mash the potatoes fine, and add four tablespoonfuls of flour, and two each of sugar and salt. Stir well together. Pour over this mixture the boiling potato water, stirring well that no lumps be formed. When cooled to lukewarm, stir in a cupful of liquid yeast, or one cake of dry yeast dissolved in warm water. After fermentation has ceased, turn into an earthen jar previously scalded, cover, and set in a cool, dark place. Shake before using.

HOP YEAST

Steep a handful of hops in a quart of hot water for five minutes. Then strain, and turn the boiling water over a cupful of flour, blended with a little cold water. Add one tablespoonful of salt, and two of sugar; let cool till lukewarm, then stir in a half cup of liquid yeast, or one cake of dry or compressed yeast dissolved in a little warm water. Set aside for twenty-four hours, stirring occasionally; then bottle and keep as above.

FRUITS

The earth to thee her increase yields,
The trees their fruitage bring;
And glittering in the sunlit fields,
The vines with bounty spring.

“Every tree, in the which is the fruit of a tree yielding seed; to you it shall be for meat.” Gen. 1:29.

If families could be induced to substitute the apple—sound, ripe, and luscious—for pies, cakes, candies, and other sweetmeats with which children are too often stuffed, there would be a diminution of doctor’s bills, sufficient in a single year to lay in a stock of this delicious fruit for a season’s use.—_Professor Faraday._

There is much false economy; those who are too poor to have seasonable fruits and vegetables, will yet have pie and pickles all the year. They can not afford oranges, yet can afford tea and coffee daily.—_Health Calendar._

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Fruits are a natural food. They form no inconsiderable part of those products of the earth given by the Creator to our first parents as food. “Behold, I have given you,” he says, “every herb bearing seed, which is upon the face of all the earth, and every tree, in the which is the fruit of a tree yielding seed; to you it shall be for meat.” Gen. 1:29.

Fruits are not only delightful to the eye, pleasing to the smell, and satisfying to the taste, but they contain elements which are necessary for the best maintenance of the system; hence the natural craving for them when the system is in a normal condition.

While not containing a large amount of nutrition compared to their size, they are, nevertheless, valuable on account of their juices, and also because of their giving bulk to our food,—a very necessary thing to be considered.

Containing as they do from seventy-five to ninety per cent of water, their use naturally allays thirst. If their use were more general, there would doubtless be less desire for unnatural drinks.

As a rule fruits, especially acid and sub-acid fruits, are cooling to the blood, and most kinds also act as a laxative to the system, tending to keep it free and open. They should, therefore, be freely used in the daily bill of fare, though in proper combinations. Fruits go well with grains and milk, but not so well with vegetables, especially acid fruits.

And what gives a nicer appearance to the table than a dish of fruit! The very sight is inviting and appetizing.

In preparing fresh fruit for the table, care should be taken to select only that which is sound and ripe. It should also be carefully cleaned. Apples should be wiped with a damp cloth, and their beauty will be further enhanced by polishing them with a dry one. Plums should be likewise treated. Grapes should be washed, and the stem ends of bananas cut off. Bananas may also be peeled, sliced, and served with cream. Oranges may be placed on the table whole, or their skins cut into eighths, and peeled half-way down. In serving cherries in their natural state, the stems should be left on.

Much taste may be displayed in the arrangement of fresh fruits for the table. A few green leaves interspersed with the fruit, or a variety of fruits tastily arranged on the same dish, make a very attractive appearance.

Nature sets before us an abundance of delicious fruits, and these in almost endless varieties and flavors.

Most fruits are both wholesome and agreeable when eaten raw, but many are rendered more easy of digestion by cooking. Some persons with weak digestion can not eat many kinds of raw fruits, but almost every one can eat most kinds when cooked.

The following are some of the most simple and practical ways in which fruits may be prepared:—

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BAKED APPLES, NO. 1

Apples to be baked may be cored and pared or baked with the skins on. If firm and quite tart, pare, place in a pie dish, add sugar and a little hot water, and bake in a moderate oven. If the apples are juicy, less water will be required. When tender, turn into a dish, and pour over them the sirup or juice.

BAKED APPLES, NO. 2

Pare and core without halving, a number of nice, tart apples; fill the centers with sugar and jelly, lay closely in a shallow pan, add a little water, and bake slowly, basting occasionally with the sirup to keep the centers well filled. Bake till brown and tender, and serve with a boiled custard made with two cups of milk, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, two eggs, and vanilla to flavor.

STEWED APPLES

Pare, core, and cut into small pieces some moderately tart apples, place in a saucepan, and add sufficient boiling water to stew to a pulp; cook slowly for about an hour, stirring but little. When cool, add sugar to sweeten.

BAKED SWEET APPLES

Select good, sweet apples. Wash, but do not pare or core them; put into a baking pan with a little water, and bake in a hot oven. Baste occasionally with the juice in the bottom of the pan. When done, if desired, each apple may be dipped in the beaten white of an egg, then in powdered sugar, and returned to the oven until the icing is set. Plain sweet baked apples are very nice served with cream.

APPLE SCALLOP

Pare, core, and slice a half dozen good cooking apples. Spread a layer in the bottom of a deep pudding dish, then over these a layer of bread crumbs mixed with a little sugar, thus alternating till the dish is filled, having a layer of apples on top. Add a half cup of cold water, and bake in a rather quick oven till done. Serve with rich milk or cream.

BOILED APPLES

Remove the cores and cook whole, or in halves, in enough boiling water to cover them. Cook slowly. When tender, remove the apples to a dish with a spoon or fork. Sweeten the juice with sugar, add a little lemon extract, thicken slightly with a very little cornstarch blended with a little cold water, and pour over the apples. Serve when cool.

BAKED PEARS

Take good, sound pears, cut in halves, pare, and fill an enameled pudding dish, sprinkling sugar through them; pour in a cupful of hot water, cover tightly, and bake slowly till tender. Serve cold. Or wash, wipe, and bake whole in a shallow dish, putting in a very little water.

STEWED PEARS

Pare, quarter, and core nice ripe pears, and drop into cold water to keep from discoloring. Make a sirup, allowing two cups of water and a half cup of sugar to each quart of fruit. Boil the sirup for a few minutes, put in the fruit, and cook until tender and pink in color, being careful not to break the fruit by stirring. Three or four slices of lemon added to the sirup while boiling will improve the flavor of the pears. Remove the lemon before putting in the fruit.

BAKED QUINCES

Pare, core, and bake the same as apples. The fruit may be left whole, and the centers filled with sugar. Sufficient water should be used so the fruit will not become dry. Baste with the sirup while baking.

BAKED PEACHES, NO. 1

Take good, firm peaches, pare, cut in halves, removing the stones, and place in a deep pudding dish, sprinkling with sugar. Add a little water, and bake until tender.

BAKED PEACHES, NO. 2

Bake as above; when done, cover the top with a meringue made of the whites of two or three eggs beaten stiff and a little powdered sugar; return to the oven and brown slightly. Serve cold with cream.

STEWED PEACHES

Take ripe peaches, pare, or wipe carefully with a damp cloth; cut in halves, remove the stones, and drop into cold water. When ready, place the fruit in a saucepan, adding sufficient boiling water to keep from burning. Add sugar, two tablespoonfuls to each quart of fruit. Cook slowly until tender, generally from twenty to thirty minutes.

STEWED PRUNES

Wash the prunes thoroughly in warm water, rinse, then add water to cover, or about three parts water to one of prunes, and soak for several hours, or overnight. Put them to cook in the same water in which they soaked, and stew gently until tender. When nearly done, add a little sugar if desired. Serve cold.

STEWED FRUITS

Small fruits are better stewed in a double enamel saucepan, and the larger kind baked in a tightly covered earthen crock or jar in the oven, with as little water as possible. Dried fruit, such as figs, prunes, peaches, raisins, dates, etc., should first be well washed, rinsed, soaked for several hours in enough water to cover, and afterward cooked in the same water in which they have soaked.

PINEAPPLE

Pare, cut into thin slices into a dish, and sprinkle lightly with sugar; let stand in a cool place for an hour, and serve.

FRUIT MOLD

Stew a quart of berries in a small quantity of water for fifteen or twenty minutes; then add sugar to taste, and two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch dissolved in a little cold water; cook until thickened, then turn into molds first wet with cold water; serve cold with milk or cream. Heat fruit juices and treat similarly.

BANANAS WITH WHIPPED CREAM

Remove the peel, cut into thin slices, and sprinkle with a very little sugar and a few drops of orange juice. Serve in small dishes, placing a tablespoonful of whipped cream on each dish. If bananas are slightly scraped after removing the skins, they will be more readily digested.

APPLE BUTTER

Pare, quarter, and core about equal parts of sweet and tart apples. Boil sweet cider down, about four gallons into one gallon. Cook the apples in either sweet cider or water till soft, then add the boiled cider, and boil and stir with a wooden spoon until thick. A little butter and ground cinnamon may be added for flavoring, and sugar if necessary. Can in jars, or set away in jars without canning if desired for immediate use.

LEMON SIRUP

Boil one cupful of sugar and one-fourth cupful of water until it slightly thickens; add a small teaspoonful of butter and a tablespoonful of lemon-juice. Serve hot.

LEMON HONEY

Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan to warm; then add one cup of sugar, the juice and grated rind of two lemons, and two eggs well beaten; cook until thickened, stirring constantly that no lumps be formed, and, if not cooked in a double boiler, being careful not to burn. When done, turn into cups and cover the same as jelly. Nice used as a filling for layer cake.

PLUM MARMALADE

Wash the plums, cut them in halves, removing the stones, and cook for about fifteen minutes, allowing a scant cup of water to each quart of fruit. Then rub through a colander, add one cup of sugar to each quart of pulp, and boil slowly one hour, stirring often to prevent burning.

GRAPE MARMALADE

Make the same as plum marmalade, only allowing half a cup of water to a quart of fruit for cooking.

TO MAKE FRUIT JELLY

Choose a bright, sunny day for making jelly, in order to have it as firm and clear as possible. Make in small quantities at a time, using only porcelain or graniteware in preparing fruit or juice. Small fruits should be used as soon after being picked as possible, and should not be overripe. Cherries should be mixed with one fourth their quantity of currants, as they do not jelly easily. Two parts red raspberry with one part currant juice makes a nice-flavored jelly. Place the fruit desired for the jelly in the saucepan, add only enough water to keep from burning, and cook until tender or well scalded; then drain through a strong, coarse, white flannel or cotton bag first wrung out of hot water. If the bag is made three-cornered, the weight of the fruit at the large top presses the juice out more freely at the point. Heat the sugar in the oven, stirring frequently to prevent burning. About three fourths of a pound should be used to each pint of juice. To prevent the jelly glasses from breaking, place them in a pan of cold water and allow it to come nearly to boiling; or with a cloth rub the outside of them well with a little butter or oil, and pour in the juice slowly. A little paraffin poured over the jelly when cooled, or writing-paper cut to fit the glasses, and oiled, is good for covering before putting on the covers.

APPLE JELLY

Select nice tart, red apples, wash, quarter, and core, but do not pare; add a small quantity of water, and boil only until soft. Then strain as directed for making fruit jelly, measure the juice, return it to a clean saucepan, and boil for ten or fifteen minutes, skimming thoroughly. Add the heated sugar, three-fourths pound to each pint of juice. Boil a few minutes, or until it jellies nicely, then turn into glasses.

CURRANT JELLY

Weigh the fruit, and to each pound weigh out half the weight of granulated sugar. Place a few of the currants in a granite saucepan, mash with a potato masher to extract enough juice to keep it from burning, then add the remainder of the fruit, and boil about twenty minutes, stirring frequently to prevent burning; strain, return juice to a clean saucepan, let boil for five minutes, skim, then add the sugar previously heated. This should jelly at once. Turn into glasses. Make blackberry and raspberry jelly in the same way.

QUINCE JELLY

Wash, wipe, and remove any imperfect spots, quarter and core, but do not pare the fruit. Cut into small pieces, and place in the preserving pan, with water enough to half cover. Cook until tender, stirring frequently. Remove from the fire, and strain through a jelly-bag, measure the juice, return to a clean saucepan, let boil fifteen minutes, then add sugar, three-fourths pound to each pint of juice. Boil until it jellies nicely, removing the scum, and when done, turn into the jelly cups at once.

CRANBERRY JELLY

Pick over and wash one quart of cranberries, and put them in a granite saucepan with one cupful of boiling water; cook about ten minutes, or until soft. Then put them through a strainer or vegetable press, return the juice to the pan, add two cupfuls of sugar, place over the fire, and cook about five minutes. Turn into a mold to cool.

HOW TO CAN FRUIT

General Remarks

Boiling or canning fruit consists in sealing up in air-tight bottles, or jars, fruit which has previously been cooked. Many do not appreciate the value of canning fruit because they have never tried it. But the process is so simple, and the result so satisfactory, that those who have ever given it a trial usually feel well repaid for the effort put forth.

Canning fruit practically lengthens the fruit season until it is perennial. Fruit, if properly canned, can be preserved, even for years, in a very natural and wholesome state.

While it is true that in semitropical countries some kind of fruit can be obtained from the markets at most seasons of the year, it is both a matter of providence and economy to lay by, at a time when fruit is cheap and in season, for those times when it is scarce, high-priced, or unobtainable. A lesson can here be learned from the bee. During the summer, when the flowers are in bloom, it culls the sweet, that it may have a store of honey to eat in the winter hours.

It is very desirable to have the fruit fresh, as picked from the tree or vine; but many of the nicest and most juicy and delicately flavored fruits, such as strawberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, plums, blueberries, cherries, peaches, and apricots are in season for only a comparatively short time. It is, therefore, of value to know how to preserve these for the unseasonable portions of the year. It is a matter of no little convenience for the housewife to have these delicious fruits in her house, ready for use at a moment’s notice. But this can be the case only by having on hand a supply of canned fruit.

Some may think that this supply of canned fruit can readily be substituted by the same kinds of fruit put up in jams, marmalades, etc., and that these can be purchased at reasonable prices at the stores all ready for use, and the trouble of preserving fruit one’s self is thereby saved. While this may be true, the fruit prepared thus is not to be compared to fruit in its more natural state. The amount of sugar generally used in making jams and marmalades causes them to be too rich in saccharine matter, and consequently more liable, if freely used, to injure the teeth, cause acidity of the stomach, dyspepsia, and liver trouble, while nearly all, even dyspeptics, can eat simple stewed fruit of one kind or another without injury.

Selecting Cans

In canning fruit, care should be taken to provide good cans and perfectly fitting covers. This is a matter of much importance. The Mason glass cans, or jars, with the white porcelain-lined covers and white rubber bands, are, perhaps, the best. It may seem a little expensive on the start to purchase these, but there is practically no further expense connected with them, aside from providing new rubbers or covers occasionally, as the jars can be used year after year, or until broken. Either the pint, quart, or two-quart jars may be used, as best suits the needs of the family.

If a Mason can opener is not at hand, the process of opening the jars may be made easier by first running the edge of a thin knife blade around under the rubbers, care being taken not, by prying or otherwise, to injure the rubbers or lids.

After the fruit has been used from the jars, wash and dry them, and set away for future use. The rubbers and covers may be put into a cloth bag and hung away from the dust.

Process

Select good, sound, fresh fruit, but not overripe, or it will be mushy and insipid when cooked. The larger fruits should not be quite as soft for canning as for eating.

Cook in a graniteware or enameled saucepan or preserving kettle. Iron, tin, copper, or brass should not be used.

Always cook slowly, as rapid boiling breaks up the fruit, and causes it to lose much of its nice flavor.

Cook thoroughly and evenly, in small quantities, and in as little water as possible, fruit being better cooked in its own juice, which soon boils out. The length of time required for cooking will depend upon the kind and quantity of fruit, hard and less ripe fruit requiring more time.

Utensils for Canning Fruit

Two or three tablespoonfuls of sugar to each quart of fruit will generally be found sufficient for the milder fruits; the more tart, such as plums, currants, gooseberries, etc., will require from six to eight tablespoonfuls.

While the fruit is cooking, immerse two or three jars in a large pan of scalding (not boiling) water, laying them down if there is room. If the jars are new, put them in cold water, and gradually raise the temperature, to prevent them from breaking. Likewise put the covers in a basin of hot water. Much depends on keeping everything hot.

Have ready an enameled dipper or cup, a cloth for wiping the outside of the jars, a spoon, fork, and a small pan in which to set the jars while being filled.

When the fruit is well cooked, roll one of the jars over in the hot water, empty it, place it in the small pan, and quickly fill with the boiling fruit, putting in a little of the juice first. Fill to overflowing. Skim off all foam or bubbles of air that come to the top. If any bubbles are seen in the fruit, pass a fork or spoon handle, first dipped in hot water, down into the jar, slightly stirring, when they will come to the top, and can be skimmed off. Wipe the juice from the top of the jar, and screw down the cover quickly and tightly. See that the rubber extends beyond the cover all around. Should any part of the edge of the cover fail to fit down into the rubber tightly after being screwed on, press down all around with the edge of the handle of a strong knife. Turn the jars upside down to cool. If no juice leaks out, the sealing is perfect.

After a few hours turn the jars right side up, and watch for a few days. If there is any leakage or sign of fermentation, the work is a failure, and the fruit should be opened at once, a little more sugar added, boiled, and used as soon as possible. If all is right, store in a cool, dark place for future use. If a proper place is not convenient, wrap the jars in brown paper to keep out the light, as this is likely to cause fermentation.

If the foregoing directions are carefully followed, there is no reason why the work should not be a perfect success.

ANOTHER METHOD

If it is desired to preserve the fruit as nearly whole as possible, prepare it as for cooking, place it, dry, compactly in the jars, and screw the covers on loosely without rubbers. Place the jars, six or eight at a time, in a boiler, standing them on thin pieces of board, and filling the boiler with sufficient warm water to come up half way on the jars. Cover tightly, using a thick cloth, if necessary, to keep in the steam; place on the range, and after the water comes to the boiling-point, cook for from one-half to one hour, according to kind and ripeness of fruit. When cooked, remove the jars, taking care not to allow a draft to strike them, to prevent cracking; allow to settle a few minutes; remove the covers, and fill with a sirup, boiling hot, allowing about a cup of sugar to each quart of fruit; or, if desired to can without sugar, fill the jars with boiling water. Put on the rubbers, and seal at once, testing by turning bottom side up.

This method should be employed in canning vegetables. Only perfectly fresh vegetables should be used for canning.

CANNED BEANS AND PEAS

Prepare string-beans as for ordinary cooking, then press and pack them closely into the jars until full, adding a little salt; fill the jars to overflowing with cold water, then screw on the covers fairly close, place the jars in a boiler, as directed above, and cook for four hours; remove from the water, take off the covers, place on the rubbers, screw on the covers tightly. Peas should be shelled, then canned in the same manner.

CANNED SWEET CORN

Select that which is fresh, and cut from the cob as directed for stewed sweet corn (page 57). Then press and pack closely into the jars until the milk appears on the top, and they are full. No water or salt should be added. Boil for five or six hours.

CANNED PEACHES

Select ripe, firm peaches, nearly soft enough to eat, avoiding the clingstones. The Crawfords are perhaps the best. Pare, divide in halves, removing the stones, and drop into cold water to prevent discoloring. For each quart of fruit pour a cupful of water into a saucepan, add three or four tablespoonfuls of sugar, and let boil up; drain the peaches from the cold water, and put them into the hot sirup; cook slowly till tender, and can.

CANNED BERRIES

Select those freshly picked; if necessary to be washed, place a few at a time in a colander and dip in and out of cold water; cook in a small quantity of water, adding the necessary sugar when nearly done, and can.

CANNED QUINCES

Wipe with a cloth, pare, quarter, core, and divide each quarter into thirds. For each two quarts of fruit pour three cups of water into a saucepan, add nearly two cups of sugar, and let boil up; then put in the fruit, and cook slowly for an hour and a half, or until tender and of a rich pink color, and can. Equal parts of quinces and apples or pears may be stewed together.

CANNED TOMATOES

Select smooth, a little under-ripe, meaty tomatoes; put them into a pan, and pour scalding water over them to make the skins come off readily; then with a sharp, pointed knife remove the cores, pare, cut into thick slices, press well into the jars, screw the covers on loosely without rubbers, place in boiler, and cook for thirty minutes after reaching the boiling-point, according to directions under “Another Method.” But little filling will be needed after being cooked. For this have a few tomatoes stewed in a saucepan. Turn upside down till cool, then wrap in brown paper, and keep in a dark place.

GRAPE JUICE

Take fresh, well-ripened, dark, juicy grapes, such as the Black Prince or Concord; pick from the stems, rejecting all that are imperfect; wash well, and put to cook in an enameled saucepan with a pint of water for each three quarts of grapes. Cook slowly for half an hour, or until the grapes burst open; then drain off the juice through a jelly-bag, filtering the skins and seeds through a separate bag. Reheat, add one-half cup of sugar to a quart of juice if desired to sweeten, and can in jars the same as fruit; or, put in sterilized bottles, filling within an inch of the top, and cork at once with good, solid corks; cut off the corks close to the bottle, and seal over with sealing-wax. Bottle the juice from the skins separately, as it will be less clear. Keep in a cool, dark place.

VEGETABLES

The first wealth is health.—_Emerson._

Vegetarians suffer little from thirst.—_Hygienic Review._

Let them give us pulse to eat, and water to drink.—_Daniel._

Sir Isaac Newton, when writing his great work, “Principia,” lived wholly upon a vegetable diet.

Body and mind are much influenced by the kind of food habitually depended upon.—_O. W. Holmes._

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While not furnishing the most nutritious diet, vegetables contain many nutritive elements in moderate degree, are rich in mineral substances, and being composed largely of water, perfectly supply many of the needs of the human system. Such vegetables, however, as peas, beans, and lentils, properly termed legumes, are highly nutritious. They are commonly understood to be of the nature of the “pulse” upon which Daniel the prophet subsisted in preference to the king’s meat. While an exclusive diet of ordinary vegetables might fail to give sufficient nourishment to meet the demands of the entire system, their use is valuable in furnishing it with a large quantity of organic fluids, and in giving bulk to the food. It is best to combine their use with other foods, such as grains, which supply the qualities lacking in the vegetables.

Only fresh vegetables should be used. Those which are stale can not be made wholesome and palatable by cooking. Their use imperils the health of the family, and is liable to cause serious illness. Herein lies an advantage in having one’s own garden.

Care should be taken not to cook vegetables too much or too little. They should be neither overdone nor underdone, but “just right.” Cooking vegetables, grains, and fruits is advantageous, as it bursts the particles of starch, and thus renders them more easy of digestion.

While cooking vegetables, a good, steady fire should be kept up, and the kettle kept full of hot water for replenishing.

Never replenish with cold water, but always with hot.

A good rule to follow in cooking vegetables is to put to cook in hot water all vegetables that require to have the water drained off when done, and in cold water those that are to retain it.

All green vegetables, such as spinach, cabbage, etc., should be put to cook in boiling, salted water; the dry vegetables, such as, potatoes, carrots, beans, split peas, and lentils should be cooked in unsalted water. About a tablespoonful of salt should generally be allowed to a gallon of water, or one third of a teaspoonful to every pint of cooked vegetables.

In washing potatoes, a coarse cloth or brush may be used to advantage. If to be baked, they should be wiped dry before placing in the oven.

It is a matter of both economy and improvement to pare potatoes very thin, as much of the mealiest and most nutritious portion lies next to the skin.

As each potato is pared, it should be dropped into a pan of clean, cold water; if allowed to fall back among the parings, the potatoes will be dark and discolored when cooked.

Potatoes should never be allowed to remain in the water in which they have boiled after they are done. It should be drained off immediately to prevent their becoming soggy and water-soaked. If given a few vigorous shakes, which allows the steam to escape, they will be much more dry and mealy.

Old potatoes, in the spring, should be allowed to stand in cold water for an hour before paring, to reabsorb the moisture they have lost through evaporation.

In baking potatoes the oven should be hot when they are put in, and the temperature increased rather than diminished afterward.

Only dry, ripe, mealy potatoes are good baked.

Onions should be boiled in two waters, first for about fifteen minutes with cold water put on, then drained off, and boiling, salted water added to finish.

To peel tomatoes readily, first pour over them a little scalding water. This also applies to plums.

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BOILED POTATOES (without skins)

Wash, pare thin, and drop into cold water to prevent discoloring. If not of a uniform size, cut the larger ones in two. Put to cook in only enough boiling water to prevent burning; cook gently from twenty to thirty minutes; when done, drain off all the water, place over the fire for a moment, then give the saucepan a vigorous shake, cover with a coarse cloth, and set on the back of the range to dry.

Large quantities of potatoes are best cooked by steaming over boiling water.

BOILED POTATOES (with skins)

Select potatoes of even size; wash clean with a cloth or brush, and remove the eyes and specks with a knife; put to cook in a small quantity of boiling water; drain when tender, and place the saucepan on the back of the range to dry; remove the skins and serve. Potatoes are best cooked in this way. Serve in an open vegetable dish.

BAKED POTATOES

Choose smooth potatoes of uniform size, wash well, being careful to clean the eyes. Dry with a cloth, and bake in a _hot_ oven; in a slow oven the skins become thick and hard. Serve as soon as done, in an open dish; if covered, they will become soggy. Baked potatoes are very wholesome, and make a good breakfast dish.

MASHED POTATOES

Wash, pare, and boil the same as boiled potatoes. When they can be readily pierced with a fork, drain thoroughly; return to the range and mash, using the potato masher vigorously for five or ten minutes, until they are light, smooth, and creamy in appearance. A wire potato masher does the work most satisfactorily. Have warmed in a saucepan a half cupful of cream or milk, adding a small piece of butter if milk is used, a teaspoonful of salt, and the well-beaten white of one egg; beat this into the potatoes until they are very light. Put lightly into a warm dish, but do not press down, and serve at once. If desired, the egg may be omitted. Very nice served with cream sauce or brown sauce.

STEAMED SLICED POTATOES

Wash, pare, and slice several medium-sized potatoes very thin. Have in a frying-pan a small piece of butter and a half cup of hot water, put in the potatoes, season with salt, cover closely, and set on the back of the range to cook slowly. Stir up a little occasionally. A few thinly sliced onions may be used with the potatoes if desired.

WARMED-UP POTATOES

Cut cold boiled potatoes into thin slices; heat a little milk to boiling in a saucepan; put in the potatoes, and season with salt to taste. Let boil a few minutes and serve. If desired, the milk may be slightly thickened with a little flour blended in a little cold milk.

POTATO PUFF

Take two cupfuls of hot, seasoned, mashed potatoes, and moisten well with hot milk or cream. Beat the yolks and whites of two eggs separately; allow the potatoes to cool slightly, then beat in the eggs, the yolks first. Turn at once into an oiled, shallow tin; do not smooth or press them down, but leave in a rocky form. Bake about ten minutes, or till a delicate brown.

LYONNAISE POTATOES

Cut into dice enough cold boiled potatoes to make one pint, brown to a golden yellow a spoonful each of butter or oil and minced onion. Add the potatoes, season with salt, and stir with a fork till a delicate brown, being careful not to break them. Add a spoonful of chopped parsley, and serve hot.

NEW POTATOES

If new and fresh, the skins may be easily scraped off with a knife, or rubbed off with a coarse cloth. Cook in a little water, drain, and serve; or, when done, drain, pour some rich, sweet milk over them, let it heat to boiling, then thicken with a little flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk, allowing a tablespoonful of flour to a pint of milk, and season with salt. A few green peas cooked with new potatoes and thus dressed make a very acceptable dish.

POTATOES WITH CREAM

Pare, and cut as many as desired into small cubes; put into boiling water and cook from fifteen to twenty minutes; when done, drain off all the water, let dry a few minutes over the fire, then add a little salt, a cup of thin cream, and a little chopped parsley; simmer for two or three minutes, and serve at once.

BAKED SWEET POTATOES

Choose those of uniform size, wash thoroughly, removing any imperfect spots, wipe dry, and place in a moderately hot oven; bake for about an hour if the potatoes are rather large. Small potatoes are better steamed than baked. Send to the table as soon as done, after removing the skins.

BOILED SWEET POTATOES

Wash well, put into cold water with the skins on, and boil until easily pierced with a fork; drain, remove the skins, and place in the oven to dry for five or ten minutes; serve in a hot, open dish.

BROWNED SWEET POTATOES

Take cold, boiled sweet potatoes, peel, cut into halves, place on shallow buttered tins, and brown in a hot oven.

ROASTED SWEET POTATOES

Wash, wipe dry, wrap with thin paper, and cover first with hot ashes, then with live coals. Turn occasionally. The coals may need renewing several times. When done, remove the ashes with a brush, wipe with a dry cloth, and serve. Sweet potatoes are nicer and more mealy when prepared in this way.

YAMS

Prepare the same as roasted sweet potatoes or baked sweet potatoes. Boiling them is thought to quite spoil their flavor.

STEWED TOMATOES

Take nice, fresh tomatoes, pour boiling water over them, remove the skins, slice into a granite saucepan, add a cupful of water, and stew from twenty to thirty minutes. Then add salt, butter, and a half cup of bread or cracker crumbs, or slightly thicken with cornstarch, blended with a little cold water. Sugar may be added if desired.

BAKED TOMATOES

Select smooth, even-sized, ripe tomatoes. Peel, remove the stems, and place in an earthen pudding dish; season with a little salt and butter or cream, and bake in a rather hot oven for half an hour.

TOMATOES AND MACARONI

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A friend in the kitchenChapter II: Part 2

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