Chapter II: Part 2

About half a pound of beef suet chopped very fine, two and a half breakfast-cupfuls of self-raising flour and a pinch of salt, must be mixed with tepid water into a nice elastic paste. Cut half a pound of bacon (fat and lean together) into narrow long strips, slice thinly one fair-sized Spanish onion into rings, and chop about eight leaves of sage very fine. Roll the paste in small pieces to form layers in the basin which must be greased by putting in a good-sized piece of butter and allowing it to stand on the top of the stove until the butter has melted and every part of the basin has had the hot butter run over it. This will prevent the pudding adhering to the basin. Put one layer of paste in the basin, then a layer of bacon and onion and just a little sage sprinkled over the top, then another layer of paste, and so on till all the bacon and onion are used up. Then put on the top layer of paste which must quite fill the basin, and tie the pudding securely in a freshly wetted pudding cloth. Care must be taken that the cloth is not drawn too tight over the pudding and that the basin is full or the water will get in and spoil the dish. The pudding must be immersed in boiling water and boiled for three hours. At the end of that time turn it out on a hot dish and serve with a little clear melted butter in a sauce boat.

_25. Veal or Beef Olives_

It is often found inconvenient to cook a joint in a hurry (or the joint may be found to be too large) when the following recipe will be found useful. Cut a slice of about an inch thick off the round of beef or fillet of veal, cut that into five or six pieces and flatten well with a knife. Chop finely about half a Spanish onion, a few sweet herbs, and pepper and salt, and put a little of these on each piece of meat and cover with half a rasher of bacon. Tie each piece securely with string. Melt one ounce of fresh butter in a frying pan over a clear fire and when ready lay the olives in it. Fry briskly for three minutes, turn over once and fry for the same length of time, then cover with another frying pan, inverted, and fry for another ten to fifteen minutes. Place the meat on a dish and remove the strings gently, cutting with scissors. Put into the frying pan about half a teacupful of good meat juice, a tablespoonful of white wine, a little salt, thicken with a little flour and pour over the olives. They will keep their shape and should be served with some nicely prepared vegetables, either beans, peas, or potatoes.

_26. Pigeons with Carrots_

Split the roasted pigeons in halves and lay cut side down in a stone saucepan with half a claret glass of white wine, pepper and salt, with four carrots cut lengthwise, each into eight pieces then cut across. Add a little good meat juice. Put enough water to just cover the pigeons. Stew gently for three-quarters of an hour. Thicken with a little flour and water and serve in the stone saucepan, or in a deep dish.

_27. Ragoût of Veal_

Cut into small pieces two pounds of neck of veal. Put into a saucepan and cover with cold water, and a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, one piece of loaf sugar, six spring onions, bottoms and green tops, six small carrots split in two, and one small turnip. Stew gently for one and a half to two hours, adding a little water if required. Half an hour before serving add a half pint of fresh green peas, a pinch of mixed herbs, half a glass of white wine. Thicken with a little smoothly mixed flour and water, stirred into the veal. Best served in the earthenware saucepan, with a napkin tied round it. If green peas are not available a little Patna rice may be used after it has been washed through several waters; or a few cut scarlet runners. Cold veal may be treated as above but in that case a little good meat juice must be used instead of the extra half pint of water.

_28. Rump Steak and Kidney Pie with Mushrooms or Truffles_

For a pie for four persons take a pound and a half of rump steak and half an ox kidney. Cut into nice pieces with a little fat but no gristle. Put it all in a deep pie-dish, with pepper and salt and the contents of a small bottle of truffles cut in small pieces (or eight mushrooms). Flour rather thickly over the top and add a little water to the side of the dish so that it runs underneath the meat (and half a teaspoonful of mushroom catsup if with mushrooms), cover with another smaller pie-dish which should allow a small opening at the sides so as to let the steam escape. Cook for three-quarters of an hour in a brisk oven and meantime rub a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, or lard, into two and a half breakfast-cupfuls of self-raising flour with a little salt, and mix with a little milk to an elastic paste. When ready take the dish out of the oven and stir the meat and the flour together. The pie will then be ready for the crust. Butter the rim of the dish while still hot. Lay a strip of paste all round and moisten with a little milk to make the top crust adhere. Bake in a quick oven for half an hour. It is important that the meat should be cooked first as otherwise it will either be underdone or the crust will be overcooked. Do not forget to make a hole in the middle of the top crust before baking.

_29. Kidney Sauté_

Remove the fatty centre of an ox kidney, cut the kidney into thin slices and dice it on a pastry board on which has been poured a good handful of flour. Rub the diced kidney well into the flour so that it looks all white. Put it into a stone saucepan, add pepper and salt, a little scraped carrot, one good-sized onion stuck with three cloves, and cover with cold water. Stir the kidney so as to remove all the flour into the water, which should look like milk. Cook in a quick oven for two hours. This might be cooked in the morning and made warm in the evening. Remove onion before serving.

_30. Kidney Sauté--Another Way_

Take one or two sheep’s kidneys, skin and split them. Lay each half, flat side down, in a frying pan with an ounce of butter or dripping, heated. Place on a quick fire, add one or two slices of onion cut thin, pepper and salt. Remove from the fire and cut the kidneys up. Place again on the stove, add a teaspoonful of bovril, a little Worcester sauce (one teaspoonful), mix smoothly a dessertspoonful of flour with water, add half a breakfast-cup of hot water to the kidneys. Stir and keep boiling twenty minutes, and serve hot, either alone or within a wall of freshly mashed potatoes.

_31. Kidneys in Onions_

To those who are fond of an onion there is hardly a more appetising dish than onions prepared in the following manner. Take four or five decent-sized sound onions. Small Spanish are the best. Cut rather a deep slice off the top after removing the outer skin. You can then take the centre out; say you remove half the onion leaving about four of the thicknesses. Have ready two or three sheep’s kidneys prepared in the following manner: Skin each kidney and split it. Sprinkle lightly pepper and salt on the split side. Put into a frying pan a little dripping or butter, lay the kidney flat side first in the boiling fat, place the pan on a quick fire and fry lightly, turning twice. As onion requires a lot of cooking it is best to put the prepared onion cases into boiling dripping and cook in a quick oven twenty-five minutes. Then place the kidney (half in each onion) and replace in the oven in the baking tin another ten minutes. Care should be taken not to overcook the kidney so that the gravy runs into the onion as it finishes cooking. Serve very hot in a stone dish.

_32. Jugged Hare_

Cut the hare up. Rub the pieces in flour. Put one and a half ounces of butter into a large enamelled frying pan, and lightly fry the hare for ten minutes. Then place your hare in a stone jar with one Spanish onion stuck with three cloves, some salt, a piece of loaf sugar, and a little finely scraped carrot. Add two glasses of port wine and a little Worcester sauce. Cover the jar with a plate and stand in a quick oven for three hours. Dish into a flat dish, garnish all round with half slices of lemon and serve with currant jelly.

_33. Yorkshire Pudding for Baked Beef or Mutton_

Separate the white of one egg from the yolk. Put the latter in an earthenware bowl and stir it lightly. Beat the white separately with a freshly cleaned knife in a plate. It is most important that a perfectly clean knife be used or the white of the egg will not rise. Beat it to a stiff froth and stir it into the yolk of the egg; and only afterwards add half a teacupful of milk and a little pepper and salt.

Stir in a breakfast-cupful of self-raising flour vigorously and work it perfectly smooth. If it is not then quite the consistency of very thick cream add a little milk to make it so. Turn into a baking tin and bake under the meat, which would be already three parts cooked then. Do not forget to turn most of the fat out of the baking tin before the pudding is poured in. Three-quarters of an hour is the time required for cooking a Yorkshire pudding.

_34. Welsh Rarebit_

Take half a pound of good Cheddar cheese, not too strong, and cut it into a flat meat dish with pepper and salt. Pour over a sufficient quantity of bottled ale to fill the dish. Stand in a quick oven and bake until the cheese is all melted. Have ready some buttered toast about a quarter of an inch thick. Remove the cheese from the dish leaving the beer and spread the cheese lightly on the toast. Replace in the oven, and serve very hot. The object of the beer is to flavour the cheese only and if the cheese were to be cooked in a frying pan over the fire it would absorb all the beer and be rendered very bitter.

_35. Spaghetti_

Put half a pound of spaghetti into boiling water with a good pinch of salt. If you carefully put the spaghetti upright in the saucepan and give them a twist they won’t break. Boil gently, being careful to add boiling water as needed to keep the same amount. It is important never to add cold water as that chills the spaghetti and causes it to become tough. Cook for one hour and meantime prepare the following sauce:

Put six good-sized tomatoes cut in quarters into a saucepan (or a pudding basin may be used in the oven), with one large round of Spanish onion chopped fine, three pieces of loaf sugar, a pinch of salt and pepper, half a bottle of tomato catsup, and an ounce of fresh butter. Stew gently on the side of the stove for three-quarters of an hour. Strain all the water off the spaghetti with the lid, into a salad bowl (or good-sized dish), stir in the tomato sauce which has been strained thoroughly, and serve very hot with some grated cheese in another dish.

_36. Risotto_

Remove all the fat from a pint of good clear beef or mutton stock and put it on the stove to boil. Wash a teacupful of Patna rice through four waters and put it into the boiling stock and cook for half an hour gently. Chop two thin rashers of bacon into small pieces, add half an onion chopped very finely and put this into the stock while it is boiling. Care should be taken, if the stock is already salted, that very little salt is added. Drain the rice dry and have ready a teacupful of Parmesan and Gruyère cheese (grated) and some good tomato sauce made with skinned tomatoes. Stir the cheese and tomato sauce into the rice in the saucepan and have ready some stone or metal moulds rinsed in cold water but not wiped. Put some of the mixture into each mould and place in a cold place for about two hours. Then put the moulds into the oven with a dish over the top and serve when hot.

_37. Cauliflower au Gratin_

Remove all the stump of a young cauliflower and boil for fifteen minutes in a large saucepan with a pinch of salt and a small pinch of soda. When cooked, turn it into a cullender and break it into small pieces (not too small) on a flat pie-dish. Take one and a half tablespoonfuls of butter. Have ready half a pint of milk boiling. Turn the boiling milk into the paste and stir well till quite smooth. Put it back in the saucepan and bring to a boil. Stir four good tablespoonfuls of grated Gruyère cheese into the sauce and turn it over the cauliflower in the dish. Dust a little more cheese over it and stand the dish in a quick oven for ten minutes to brown. The browning can also be done with a Salamander.

_38. Macaroni au Gratin_

Have ready three pints of freshly boiling water with a good pinch of salt in a saucepan for about half a pound of straight macaroni which must be broken up to a convenient size. Macaroni should always be put straight into boiling water. Boil gently for forty minutes to an hour but be careful not to let it boil over, adding boiling water from time to time as the macaroni swells. Strain the water off with the lid, and stir into the saucepan a breakfast-cupful of grated Gruyère cheese (a little grated Parmesan cheese is a great improvement added to the Gruyère). Turn into a stone dish. Dust a little more cheese over the top, put a piece of butter about the size of two good-sized walnuts and place in a quick oven to brown slightly.

_39. Marrow Toast_

Take some good marrow bones and tie the ends in freshly scalded muslin after previously salting slightly the end where the marrow is. Put them into a large saucepan of boiling water with a cut onion. Boil for one hour and then take the bones out. Remove the muslin and take the marrow out on to a plate and season with a little pepper and salt and spread on hot buttered toast. Replace in oven for a few minutes and serve very hot. This makes a good savoury dish.

_40. Sage and Onion Stuffing_

(_For goose, fowl, beef, veal, or breast of mutton_)

Put into an enamelled frying pan about two ounces of fresh butter ready for melting. (Salt butter always leaves a deposit in the pan which causes the things to burn.) Take five large Spanish onions, cut carefully on a board into thin slices, and put into the hot butter. Place on the fire with the stove top on and boil for half an hour without allowing them to brown. Take the soft part of one loaf, rub it fine on a grater, chop ten or twelve large leaves of sage, mix with the breadcrumbs, pour the onion hot into the centre, mix thoroughly and stuff.

This stuffing will be found not to smell in the cooking, or to be unpleasant after eating.

_41. Truffled Stuffing for Fowls_

For two fowls take the soft part of half a loaf of bread, eight small sprigs of parsley (not the stalk), the yolk of one egg, the livers of the fowls, one rasher of bacon not too fat, pepper and salt, one round of Spanish onion, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and one small bottle of truffles. Rub the bread very fine on a cheese-grater and chop onion and parsley very small. Fry the liver, bacon, and onion very lightly, chop them very small and turn on to the board to mix thoroughly with crumbs. Add the chopped truffles and a piece of butter, break the yolk of the egg into it and stir the mixture well when the stuffing will be ready to put into the fowl.

_42. Sauce Piquante for Leg of Mutton Cutlets_

After dishing the cutlets (rec: 86) turn the butter out of the pan and put a little water into it as meat juice adheres to the pan. Into this put a slice of Spanish onion chopped very fine, half a claret glass of white wine, the juice of half a lemon, a little salt and pepper, half a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce. Thicken with half a teaspoonful of carefully mixed flour and water. Place the pan over the fire and bring the mixture to boiling point, no more. Take it off and strain through a gravy strainer over the meat and serve at once.

_43. Horseradish Cream_

Have a nice fresh horseradish rubbed finely on a coarse cheese-grater having sufficient radish when grated for three large tablespoonfuls. Place it in a basin and add half a large teacupful of thick cream. Stir well and add three good teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, a little salt, and one and a half tablespoonfuls of good malt vinegar. Serve with cold roast or boiled beef in a sauce boat. Never add anything to the radish till the cream has been well stirred in and always add the vinegar last.

_44. Mustard Sauce_

This sauce has the great advantage that it does not require any cooking and can be produced within a few moments if desired.

Two yolks of eggs carefully separated from the whites and placed in a stone basin, and two teaspoonfuls of dry mustard stirred together till perfectly smooth with two large tablespoonfuls of best salad oil and two tablespoonfuls of best malt vinegar and a pinch of salt. Sprinkle on it a little finely chopped parsley the last thing.

_45. Sauce Piquante_

Two or three thin slices of Spanish onion fried lightly in a little good beef dripping. Two large tablespoonfuls of bovril added to the onion which must be allowed to adhere lightly to the pan. Half a teacup of hot water and a tablespoonful of best malt vinegar. Let the whole come to a boil and thicken slightly with a little carefully mixed flour and water. Strain and serve in a sauce boat.

_46. Egg and Lemon Sauce for Fish or Calf’s Head_

Melt in an enamelled frying pan about two ounces of fresh butter, add quickly the yolks of two eggs and half a teacup of fresh cream. The object of adding the cream with the yolks of the eggs is to prevent the egg from becoming solid. Stir well together with a little salt the juice of one lemon and a little milk. This sauce should be thick enough without any added thickening.

_47. Apple Sauce_

Put six apples cut very small into a stone saucepan with a little cold water. Add a teacupful of powdered sugar and half an ounce of butter. Stew gently for one hour. Strain off some of the juice with the lid of the saucepan and beat the apples with a fork until reduced to a paste.

_48. Tomato Sauce_

Put the tomatoes into a deep basin or jug and scald with boiling water. They can then be peeled easily, the skin coming off like a glove from the hand. Place in a rather deep frying pan with half an ounce of butter and a piece of loaf sugar, pepper and salt. Mash with knife till fairly smooth and serve, after steaming, with cutlets, veal, or mutton.

_49. Sauce Ravigotte_

(_For cold meat or boiled calves’ feet, cold_)

Chop together very small the yolk and white of one hard-boiled egg, add the yolk of one raw one, six spring onions, a little parsley, pepper and salt. Mix with one tablespoonful of vinegar and two of best salad oil.

_50. Bread Sauce_

Peel and cut into quarters one onion and let it simmer in a pint of milk till perfectly tender. Break one-fourth pound stale bread into small pieces or grate it into crumbs, put it into a clean saucepan and strain the milk from the onion over it; cover it with the lid and let it remain an hour to soak. Beat it briskly with a fork, add a little salt, a small pinch of cayenne pepper and either a little cream or a piece of butter the size of a walnut.

_51. Brandy Sauce for Christmas Pudding_

Bring to a boil half a pint of milk, mix in a large basin one tablespoonful of cornflour with a little cold milk, to a very stiff paste, pour into it the boiling milk, stirring one way all the time, add two large tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, two wineglasses of brandy and serve in a sauce boat, very hot. _Note_: If the cornflour is mixed very stiff and the milk is poured in while boiling, the sauce will thicken and there will be no need to return it to the saucepan to boil again.

_52. Curries_

_Rice._ The cooking of rice is the principal part in preparing a dish of curry.

The rice must be snowy white in appearance and so dry when cooked that each grain is perfectly detached.

Wash your rice in ten waters so as to get rid of all floury dust. Have a saucepan ready with boiling water (in the proportion of three pints to a quarter of a pound of rice) with a good pinch of salt. Pour the rice into the saucepan and boil fast with the lid partly off (so that it does not boil over) for twelve minutes. Drain off nearly all the water, then shutting the lid tight, put the saucepan at the side of the stove for the rice to finish cooking in its own steam. At the end of twenty minutes the rice will be cooked and dry. Care must be taken not to let it burn.

_Curried Eggs._ Fry lightly together one large Spanish onion cut into rings and one or two tomatoes cut in four for about ten minutes without allowing the onion to brown. Add a little good beef stock and go on cooking in the frying pan for another twenty minutes, add then a tablespoonful or more of curry powder and stir in the sauce. Four to six hard-boiled eggs each cut into four are to be laid in the centre of the frying pan and sauce turned over them with a spoon, after being thickened with a little flour and water mixed smoothly. At the end of five minutes lay the eggs down the centre of a dish and pour the curry over them.

For meats or chicken, which would be already cooked, or for prawn curries, proceed as above but take care to put meat or prawns in the pan ten minutes after the stock has been added, and boil for ten minutes before adding the curry and five minutes more afterwards.

_53. Mayonnaise_

_For Salmon, Lobster, and Cold Fowl_

_Salmon._ Cover with cold water in an earthenware saucepan two pounds of salmon cutlets. A strainer should be laid at the bottom of the saucepan. Add a little salt and a teaspoonful of vinegar. Cook for thirty minutes. Dish on a flat dish and place on ice. Arrange on a bed of sliced cucumber and lettuce and pour the mayonnaise over.

To make the mayonnaise put the yolks of two eggs in a pastry bowl, and, while stirring with a spoon, keep adding drop by drop the best Lucca salad oil to the amount of a teacupful. When all the oil is used, stir in a teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar. It is imperative that nothing should be added to the yolks before the oil, or the mayonnaise will not rise. For the same reason you must stir always the same way. To make a larger quantity add half a teacupful of oil for each yolk, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar. If possible a mayonnaise should not be made more than half an hour before it is required.

_Fowl._ The chicken should be carved and laid on a bed of mixed salad with a few slices of beet-root round the outside of the dish.

_Lobster._ The lobster should be taken out of the shell and laid on a bed of lettuce.

_54. Salmon and Cucumber Sandwiches_

Pound some fresh salmon in a mortar with a drain of anchovy sauce. Spread it lightly on some thin bread and butter. Add a couple of thin slices of cucumber and a little salt. Salmon and shrimp paste can be used if preferred.

_55. Prawn Sandwiches_

Cut thin some bread and butter. Cut the prawns very fine and lay them on the buttered bread with a little mustard and cress, pepper and salt.

_56. Sardine Sandwiches_

Scrape the sardines and remove the bones. Take eight slices of toast about an inch thick, trim round the edges, and split with a knife. Butter lightly while hot and lay the sardines between the split toast not too thickly. Add a little red or white pepper if preferred and then close the toast which should be then cut into two and served hot.

_57. Sardines on Toast_

Take the sardines out of the box and scrape off the scales, split them and remove the backbone. Lay two sardines (four halves) on each slice of buttered toast, sprinkle with a little red pepper and place in the oven. Serve very hot.

_58. Beef and Tomato Sandwiches_

Take a sandwich loaf and cut the crust off on three sides. Pass the knife down between the back crust and the crumb and slice the bread against it. Butter each slice of bread and lay a thin slice of beef on it, then a thin slice of tomato. Lay the other bread and butter on the top with a pinch of pepper and salt.

_59. Caviare Savoury_

Take some slices of buttered toast, spread lightly with caviare and put into the oven for a few seconds before serving.

_60. Hard-Boiled Eggs for Garniture of Sandwiches_

Have the water boiling, put the eggs into it and boil for fifteen minutes quickly. Remove with a spoon and plunge them into cold water; if the eggs are fresh this should avoid the green line which usually forms round the white.

_61. Hors d’œuvres_

Hors d’œuvres make a nice beginning to a meal, do not give much trouble to prepare, and dress the table laid out for lunch in an interesting manner. My practice was to use four to six glass dishes.

_Sardines._ Remove carefully from the tin and lay on the dish with their tails in the middle of the dish and the head part of the fish towards the outer edge of the dish.

_Anchovies._ The French ones bottled in oil are the most profitable and will keep quite a long time if carefully corked and the oil covers the fish. Unroll them and split them lengthwise, laying them four or five lengths one way of the dish and four or five the other, leaving little squares of the dish visible. Fill each of these with the chopped up white of an egg boiled hard.

A caviare hors d’œuvre should be served in the pot, packed in crushed ice and plain toast provided on the table for it.

_Stuffed Eggs._ Have three or four eggs boiled hard. Place them in a basin of cold water. Remove the shells as soon as they are cool enough to hold in the fingers. Rinse in the water and cut each egg across the middle, and cut a thin slice from each rounded end of the egg to enable it to stand in an upright position. Remove the yolks into a plate and mash them with a dinner fork, adding two teaspoonfuls of anchovy sauce (bottled), one tablespoonful of cream, half a teaspoonful of dry mustard. Work all together with the fork, and when perfectly mixed, fill in the whites with the mixture. Cut a French olive into strips lengthwise round the stone and place one piece across the top of each egg to resemble a handle.

_Eggs with a Mayonnaise Sauce._ Cut lengthwise four hard-boiled eggs after removing the shells as directed and lay them white side up on the dish, which must be rather deep. Make a little mayonnaise sauce (proportion of one yolk of an egg to half a teacup of salad oil stirred into it drop by drop and half a teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar), pour the sauce over the eggs.

_Beet-root._ Boiled whole and cut into thin rings, pour over it a little vinegar and dust a little powdered sugar on it and a little finely chopped onion.

_Tomatoes._ Skinned and prepared as directed for tomato salad.

_Celery._ Cut or rather curled as you would peel rhubarb and dressed either with oil and vinegar or with a little mayonnaise sauce to which has been added half a teaspoonful of dry mustard.

Then there are olives, stuffed or otherwise, tunny fish or smoked salmon which can be bought in small tins and do not require any dressing. Simply serve on the dish.

_62. Chocolate_

Place a quarter of a pound of Chocolate Menier in a stone saucepan for ten minutes covered with cold water. Let it stand on the side of the stove. Work it into a smooth paste and add water or milk to make it a pint. No sugar. Place it over the fire and bring it to a boil. Do this six times, lifting it from the fire each time it boils.

_63. Coffee for Four Persons_

Put into an earthenware saucepan a teacupful of roasted coffee freshly ground, and pour over one pint and a half of boiling water. Bring to a boil twice. Tip a tablespoonful of cold water into the boiling coffee. Let it stand for five minutes and strain through a strainer into a warmed coffee pot.

SOUPS, STOCKS

_General Remarks_

If the vegetables are used for flavouring only, they may remain in the soup all the time it is cooking. If, on the other hand, they are intended to be dished in the soup they should be put in only in time to be cooked thoroughly.

Every kitchen should contain in a cupboard always a bottle of cooking sherry, a bottle of mushroom catsup, one of Worcester sauce, one of tomato (bottled) sauce, some fresh lemons, vinegar, the best salad oil, a packet of sweet herbs, bovril, nutmeg, cloves, and spice.

The object in adding sugar is to clear the soup or stock and will be found as effective as eggshells.

In preserving stocks for soups, gravies, etc., care should be taken never to allow the receptacle containing it to be covered--after it is strained--except with a perforated meat cover.

Stock cannot be kept for more than two days without being reboiled. Never neglect to dash cold water into it while still boiling or the object of settling the solid particles and raising the fat will not be attained.

_64. Beef Tea_

Take one pound of leg of beef not fat. One pound makes about a pint of good beef tea. Cut the meat several times across, taking care not to cut it through. Sprinkle with a half teaspoonful of salt, put into a stone jar or saucepan with one piece of loaf sugar, add one and a half pints of cold water and place in a steady oven to cook for two hours. Always put it into the oven as soon as it is prepared as the salt otherwise would draw the juice out of the meat. Directly it is cooked, dash about one tablespoonful of cold water into it. Place in a cold place for the fat to rise, remove with a sheet of white paper the fat which will have risen to the top and make hot as required.

_65. Mutton Broth_

This can apply to either the short ends of cutlet bones, the shank end of a leg of mutton, or the scrag end of the neck. Remove the fat and place, with an onion (not cut), into a saucepan a turnip cut into small pieces, a pinch of salt, one piece of loaf sugar, and if no fresh parsley is obtainable a pinch of mixed sweet herbs that have been rinsed in cold water. (If herbs are used they must be added as soon as the broth boils; if fresh parsley it should never be added till it is within ten minutes of being ready to serve.) More salt may be added to taste. Bring to a boil quickly and then put a quarter teacupful of washed pearl barley into it and boil gently for three and a half hours. Strain and serve.

It will be noticed that some of the soup will boil away and a little hot water will have to be added. This broth can be made with the remains of cold potatoes added instead of the barley, in which case it requires to be stirred through a cullender so as to avoid any pieces of potato remaining whole.

_66. Chicken Broth_

Take the remains of any cold chicken, giblets, feet, and put into an earthenware saucepan with one piece of loaf sugar, a pinch of salt, one small onion (whole), cover with cold water. Keep boiling gently for three hours adding from time to time a little water to keep the saucepan about half full. Strain through a cullender and put in the larder to get cool, after adding a little cold water to make the fat rise to the top.

_67. Lentil or Split-Pea Soup_

If for pea soup, take the bone of a ham, or the small bones of a piece of pickled pork and add about a quart of cold water and one onion. Have ready two large teacupfuls of split peas (that have soaked for two hours). Boil steadily for three or four hours, stirring from time to time to prevent burning. Strain through a cullender and serve with fried bread, very hot. Proceed in the same way for lentil soup, only in that case the bones of either beef or veal may be used instead of pork.

_68. White Bean Soup_

Have ready one pint of white beans boiled soft in water with a piece of common soda the size of a pea. Put them into a saucepan with remains of cold meat--beef, mutton, or veal--one uncut onion, one turnip, pepper and salt to taste, and if not objected to, a few cold potatoes. Boil gently about three hours, then pass the whole through a fine cullender to strain the skins from the beans. Replace in a saucepan and bring to a boil; then serve very hot. Have ready some slices of stale bread about half an inch thick cut into dice. Have a little beef (or veal) dripping, bring to a boil in an enamel frying pan and drop the bread in while it boils, fry till a light brown and quite crisp. Serve in a hot dish with a strainer under. This bread is good for either pea, lentil, haricot, or potato soup.

_69. Chicken Soup_

Take the remains of any cold roast or boiled fowls, salt and pepper to taste; a whole onion, half a rasher of very lean bacon, one piece of loaf sugar, one quart of water. Put all together into a saucepan and bring to a boil, keeping the meat or bones covered. Boil two hours. Take one and a half flat tablespoonfuls of flour, one ounce of fresh butter, and put the butter and flour into a smooth china or earthenware bowl (enamel bowl will do), work the two together with a tablespoon till a perfectly smooth paste is made, then pour the soup through a cullender on to the paste, stirring all the time; add a little milk and if possible a little fresh cream. Replace the soup in the saucepan, put it back on the stove and stir one way till it boils, when it is ready to serve.

_70. Game Soup_

Take a rabbit and wash it in a little water with a pinch of salt, then cut it up. Put it into a stone saucepan with one quart to three pints cold water, salt and pepper to taste, one piece of loaf sugar, one onion whole (or three or four spring onions), one carrot, about half a pound of gravy beef, and the remains of any cold game. Boil gently for three hours, strain, and place in the saucepan again, bring to a boil, thicken with flour and butter mixed as for chicken soup, bring to a boil while stirring. Strain and serve. If not dark enough add teaspoonful of bovril.

_71. Asparagus Soup_

Take the remains of cold veal, the bottom ends of asparagus, one onion, salt and pepper, one piece of loaf sugar, and two pints of cold water. Let it boil gently for three hours. Have ready, well mixed into a smooth paste, two tablespoonfuls of flour with one and a half ounces of fresh butter. Strain the soup, while still boiling, through a strainer on to the paste, stir gently till perfectly smooth, add half a teacupful of cream and a little milk. Care should be taken that the soup is not too thick or thin. Replace in the saucepan and stir gently over a clear fire till it boils. It is then ready to serve and should be perfectly smooth.

_72. Tomato Soup_

Take the remains of cold chicken, beef, or veal; add two pounds of fresh tomatoes cut into slices, one onion, pepper and salt, five pieces of sugar. Put all into a stone saucepan and boil gently two hours (in about a quart of water); have ready the same mixture of butter and flour as for asparagus soup, strain the tomato soup on to it, add the half teacupful of cream and a little milk, put back into the saucepan and stir till it boils. This should be about a quart of soup.

It will be noticed that most of these recipes are made with the remains of cold meat instead of buying especially to make the soup, and in this way most things can be used up without any waste.

_73. Clear Ox Tail Soup_

Soak a fresh ox tail in cold water for two hours. Then cut at each joint, remove all the fat, and lay in three pints of cold water in a saucepan with a pinch of salt, two pieces of loaf sugar, and a teaspoonful of mushroom catsup. Boil for three hours, then add one sliced carrot and a finely cut onion; boil for another half hour. The soup is then ready to be served with the meat in it.

_74. Thick Ox Tail Soup_

Proceed in the same manner as for the clear soup, adding a good teacupful of strong beef stock. Put in whole an onion and a carrot with a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce. Boil for three hours, then dash in a cupful of cold water and remove from the fire to stand in a cool place. Carefully remove all the fat and the vegetables. Bring the soup to a boil again and add a carrot cut into oblong pieces, boil for another half hour, thicken with a little carefully mixed flour and water, and serve with the meat in it.

_75. Julienne Soup_

Take one pound of lean gravy beef not cut up, put it into a saucepan with one piece of loaf sugar, an onion (whole), a little pepper and salt, and three pints of water. Boil for two hours. Dash a teacupful of cold water in to cause the fat to rise. Allow it to cool, skim the fat, and strain the soup into another saucepan. Put in one carrot, cut into slices and then into tiny strips, half a turnip, in strips, and a few green peas. These last may be from a bottle if it is impossible to obtain the fresh. Boil for half an hour and serve the soup with the vegetables in it. This soup will turn out perfectly clear if the directions are carefully followed.

_76. To Use Roast Beef Bone for Soup_

Remove all the fat; put the bone in a saucepan with about a quart of water, a piece of loaf sugar (to clear it), salt, pepper, one carrot cut into narrow strips, one onion sliced, and a little cut cabbage. Boil steadily for an hour and a half. Remove the bone and then serve the soup with the vegetables in it.

BEEF

_Roasting. Boiling_

_General Remarks_

Sirloin 7 lbs. 1½ to 2 hours.
Fillet say 4 lbs. 1 hour.
Round 4 to 5 lbs. 1¼ hours.
Rolled Ribs 7 lbs. 2¼ to 2½ hours.
Aitchbone 7 lbs. 2½ to 3 hours.

The first and the two last joints should be bought large, not under seven pounds, on account of the bone they contain.

In roasting or rather in baking, as is the general practice of small households (either in gas stove or coal), attention should be paid that the oven is not too fierce as it reduces the joint greatly and of course spoils the taste and appearance.

On the other hand, an oven not sufficiently hot spoils the meat by making it hard.

The proper degree of heat is best learned by experience but as a guide it may be said that a joint should begin to splutter and sizzle within fifteen minutes after the oven door is shut.

If the meat does not appear to be cooking satisfactorily at the end of fifteen minutes the baking tin should be stood on the stove over the fire (top off) after putting a little beef dripping into the tin.

While on the fire turn the joint over several times with the fork. At the end of ten to fifteen minutes the meat may be put back into the oven.

The dripping should be preserved as follows:--

After the meat is cooked, place the joint on the dish. Turn the fat out of the baking tin into a basin and dash into it at once a tablespoonful of cold water. This will separate the meat juice from the fat.

In this way you obtain perfectly clear fat and the meat juice under it will be found useful for colouring sauces or improving soups. This applies to all roast meat--beef, veal, and mutton--providing the joint is not stuffed.

As to obtaining gravy for the joint itself, proceed as follows:--

After pouring off the fat into the basin as directed, put half a teacupful of cold water into the baking tin and let it stand on top of the fire till it boils, which will happen almost at once. Turn over the joint in the dish.

Should the gravy appear not dark enough, the meat juice separated as above from the fat of other joints may be added.

_N.B._ Never flour the joint before putting it in the oven. The practice has nothing to recommend it and it would make it impossible to obtain dripping or preserve the very useful meat juice.

_77. Salt Beef and Carrots_

Soak over night in cold water a piece of salt beef, say about four pounds. Put it into a saucepan three parts full of boiling water. Time for cooking: one and a half hours. When the meat has been boiling for half an hour add four carrots cut in four lengthwise. Make about six suet dumplings in the same way as suet crust for pudding and put in the saucepan twenty minutes before the meat is ready. Care must be taken that no salt is added to anything. Serve with the dumplings and carrots round the dish.

_78. Stuffed Steak with Thick Sauce_

Take two pounds of rump steak, free it from sinews; make about four large cuts in it without cutting it right through, with a sharp knife. Lay the stuffing (sage and onion according to rec: 40) on the steak, cover with a piece of flare, or if not available a piece of buttered paper tied round with string, and bake for one hour. Lay the meat on a dish and remove the string and paper. Put a pinch of pepper and salt into the baking tin and about a teacupful of water. Place over the top of the stove until it boils, stir into it a tablespoonful and a half of carefully mixed flour, bring it to the boil again and carefully strain it through a gravy strainer over the meat. Serve with baked or boiled potatoes.

_79. Rump Steak with Kidney and Mushroom Sauce_

Melt over a clear fire an ounce of butter in an enamelled frying pan, then put in one and a half pounds of rump steak to fry briskly for five minutes, turning over once. Put the stove top on then and cook the steak for fifteen to twenty minutes more. Prepare half an ox kidney cut into dice, half a Spanish onion chopped very fine, and six or seven mushrooms (which have been previously placed in salted water for a short time to remove all grit). After dishing the steak put the kidney in the pan first, then the onion, then the mushrooms and fry very briskly but lightly for ten to fifteen minutes. Then add half a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce, six tablespoonfuls of water, and half a tablespoonful of flour mixed very smooth and thin with a little water. Bring to a boil and turn over the steak before serving.

_80. Stewed Steak_

Cut into pieces about a finger’s length one and a half pounds of rump steak. Have ready in an enamelled frying pan about an ounce of fresh butter made hot, or dripping. Lay the steak in this and fry briskly on a clear fire for ten minutes. Remove the meat and put it into an earthenware saucepan with a slice. Fry in the same butter or dripping one large Spanish onion. Cut two large or six small carrots into pieces; add this and the onion to the steak with a piece of loaf sugar, pepper and salt, and half a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce or mushroom catsup. Cover with cold water and stew gently for two hours. Thicken with a little carefully mixed flour and water. Best served in the earthenware saucepan wrapped in a napkin.

_81. Marinaded Beef_

This recipe will be useful when the question arises of keeping a joint over a Sunday. Get your butcher to cut you about four pounds of undercut of beef. Make the marinade as follows: For a pint of best malt vinegar one whole onion, one carrot (onion and carrot to be left whole), one-fourth pint of cold water, two bay leaves, six or seven peppercorns, salt and pepper to taste; put into an enamel saucepan and bring to a boil. Simmer gently for half an hour then turn into a deep basin to get cold. When quite cold place the beef in it and turn it over five or six times in the course of the two days it has to wait for cooking. When required for the table take some good dripping--either beef or mutton according to which joint you wish to cook--put it into a baking tin and when quite hot place the meat in it and cook in a nice hot (but not fierce) oven for three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Place the meat on a hot dish, turn out the fat which is no longer of any use. For the gravy put four or five tablespoonfuls of the marinade into the hot baking tin with a teaspoonful of bovril and bring to a boil. Add to the boiling gravy, if possible, two or three teaspoonfuls of cream (not preserved) thickened with a little flour and water mixed smoothly, and serve either poured over the meat or in a sauce boat.

_Note._ The above will do for loin of mutton.

_82. Steaks on Toast_

Take a nice thick steak, beat it lightly with the blade of a firm knife, cut into rounds say about the size of the foot of a large wineglass, allowing two little steaks per person. Sprinkle with a little salt. Have a deep frying pan with some good beef dripping ready melted. Cut some rounds of dry bread a little bigger than the meat. Fry these a crisp brown in the dripping. Drain them on a strainer. Put some more fresh dripping in the pan and fry the little steaks which should be cooked so as to allow the gravy to run red when cut. Place each on the round of toast and serve very hot with some thick brown gravy.

_83. Scraped Meat Steak_

Take about two pounds of lean steak cut very thick. Scrape it free from all fat or other particles with a sharp knife on to a big flat dish. Add pepper and salt to taste, about half a finely sliced and minced onion, a tablespoonful of Worcester sauce. Work all together with the blade of the knife pressing the meat, etc., on the dish. In this way the onion should entirely disappear. Form into little round cakes the size of a small round dinner biscuit only three times as thick. Roll in egg and breadcrumbs and fry lightly from three to seven minutes. Place on a hot dish and serve. A welcome addition is the whole yolk of an egg served on each, and it is quite palatable prepared in this way and served quite raw.

MUTTON

_Roasting._ _Boiling_

_General Remarks_

Leg 7 lbs. 1¾ hours.

(This can be cut in half across and used as two joints if desired, thus doing away with a lot of cold meat for succeeding days)

Shoulder 7 to 8 lbs. 1¾ to 2 hours.
Loin 4 to 6 lbs. 1 to 1¾ hours.

For roasting mutton the oven must be brisk. No joint of mutton should be put on the top of the stove.

For dishing and gravy proceed as for beef.

Shank end of leg of mutton makes very good mutton broth.

_83. Boiled Mutton_

Boil the bottom half of a leg of mutton in a saucepan three parts full of water for one and a half hours with a teaspoonful of salt. Serve on a flat dish with a little parsley as garniture.

Serve with caper sauce. Proceed as per No. 110 but adding half a cupful of capers (bottled) instead of the parsley, ten minutes before serving in a boat.

_84. Boiled Mutton for an Invalid_

Take a little of the best end of the neck of mutton and, after removing the fat, put it in a stone saucepan which has been previously rinsed in cold water, with half a pint of fresh milk and a little salt. While boiling add half an onion cut up small. Boil gently for an hour and a half. Thicken with a little flour and serve.

_85. Breast of Mutton Stuffed_

Lay the breast of mutton on the pastry board and put sage and onion stuffing (recipe 40) into it. Roll and tie with string and bake for one hour.

_86. Leg of Mutton Cutlets_

Cut the leg of mutton in half, the top part for roasting and the rest of the leg cut into cutlets of about an inch thick (it should cut into four cutlets). Put half an ounce of butter into a pan and melt it over the fire. Fry the cutlets over a clear, brisk fire for five minutes, and turn over once during that time. Put the stove top on and cook the cutlets for fifteen minutes more. Then dish.

_87. Mutton Cutlets and Mashed Potatoes_

Cut three pounds of best end of neck of mutton (it is always best to cut your own cutlets), carefully remove the line of fat and scrape the bone which should not be longer than three inches. Chop the rest off. Put one ounce of fresh butter in an enamelled frying pan and make it hot. Lay the cutlets in the butter and put over a brisk fire for three minutes. Turn once and place on the stove with the top on. Cook for another fifteen minutes. If any doubt is felt as to their being done, it is well to cut one to see whether it is cooked perfectly. It should look red not purple, and the gravy should run. Arrange the mashed potatoes in a pyramid in the centre of the dish and stand the cutlets round it with a little paper frill on each bone.

_88. Boiled Mutton with Mushrooms or Olives_