Chapter VII: Life in Teffé

Aspect of Teffé.—Situation.—Description of Houses.—Fishing
Excursion.—Astonishing Variety of Fishes.—Acará.—Scarcity of
Laborers.—Our Indoors Man.—Bruno.—Alexandrina.—Pleasant
Walks.—Mandioca-shed in the Forest.—Indian Encampment on the
Beach.—Excursion to Fishing Lodge on the Solimoens.—Amazonian
Beaches.—Breeding-Places of Turtles, Fishes, etc.—Adroitness
of Indians in finding them.—Description of a “Sitio.”—Indian
Clay-Eaters.—Cuieira-Tree.—Fish Hunt.—Forest Lake.—Water
Birds.—Success in Collecting.—Evening Scene in
Sitio.—Alexandrina as Scientific Aid.—Fish
Anecdote.—Relations between Fishes as shown by their
Embryology.—Note upon the Marine Character of the Amazonian
Faunæ.—Acará.—News from the Parties in the Interior.—Return
of Party from the Iça.—Preparations for Departure.—Note on
General Result of Scientific Work in Teffé.—Waiting for the
Steamer.—Sketch of
Alexandrina.—Mocuim.—Thunder-Storm.—Repiquete.—Geological
Observations. 212–250

CHAPTER VIII.

RETURN TO MANAOS.—AMAZONIAN PICNIC.

Arrival at Manaos.—New Quarters.—The Ibicuhy.—News from
Home.—Visit to the Cascade.—Banheiras in the
Forest.—Excursion to Lake Hyanuary.—Character and Prospects
of the Amazonian Valley.—Reception at the Lake.—Description
of Sitio.—Successful Fishing.—Indian Visitors.—Indian
Ball.—Character of the Dancing.—Disturbed Night.—Canoe
Excursion.—Scenery.—Another Sitio.—Morals and Manners.—Talk
with the Indian Women.—Life in the Forest.—Life in the
Towns.—Dinner-Party.—Toasts.—Evening Row on the Lake.—Night
Scene.—Smoking among the Senhoras.—Return to Manaos. 251–275

CHAPTER IX.

MANAOS AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD.

Photographic Establishment.—Indian Portraits.—Excursion to the
Great Cascade.—Its Geological Formation.—Bathing
Pool.—Parasitic Plants.—Return by the Igarapé.—Public
Ball.—Severity in Recruiting, and its Effects.—Collecting
Parties.—Scenes of Indian Life.—Fête Champêtre at the Casa
dos Educandos.—Prison at Manaos.—Prison Discipline on the
Amazons.—Extracts from Presidential Reports on this
Subject.—Prison at Teffé.—General Character of Brazilian
Institutions.—Emperor’s Birthday.—Illuminations and Public
Festivities.—Return of Collecting Parties.—Remarks on the
Races.—Leave Manaos for Mauhes. 276–300

CHAPTER X.

EXCURSION TO MAUHES AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD.

Leave Manaos.—On board the Ibicuhy.—Navigation of the River
Ramos.—Aspect of the Banks.—Arrival at Mauhes.—Situation of
Mauhes.—Tupinambaranas.—Character of Population.—Appearance
of the Villages of Mauhes.—Bolivian
Indians.—Guaraná.—Excursion to Mucaja-Tuba.—Mundurucu
Indians.—Aspect of Village.—Church.—Distribution of
Presents.—Generosity of the Indians.—Their
Indifference.—Visit to another Settlement.—Return to
Mauhes.—Arrival of Mundurucus in the Village.—Description of
Tattooing.—Collection.—Boto.—Indian Superstitions.—Palm
Collection.—Walk in the Forest.—Leave Mauhes.—Mundurucu
Indian and his Wife.—Their Manners and Appearance.—Indian
Tradition.—Distinctions of Caste. 301–321

CHAPTER XI.

RETURN TO MANAOS.—EXCURSION ON THE RIO NEGRO.

Christmas Eve at Manaos.—Ceremonies of the Indians.—Churches on
the Amazons.—Leave Manaos for the Rio Negro.—Curious River
Formation.—Aspect of the River.—Its Vegetation.—Scanty
Population.—Village of Taua Péassu.—Padre of the
Village.—Palms.—Village of Pedreira.—Indian Camp.—Making
Palm-thatch.—Sickness and Want at Pedreira.—Row in the
Forest.—Tropical Shower.—Geology of Pedreira.—Indian
Recruits.—Collection of Palms.—Extracts from Mr. Agassiz’s
Notes on Vegetation.—Return to Manaos.—Desolation of the Rio
Negro.—Its future Prospects.—Humboldt’s Anticipations.—Wild
Flowers.—Distribution of Fishes in the Amazonian Waters.—How
far due to Migration.—Hydrographic System.—Alternation
between the Rise and Fall of the Southern and Northern
Tributaries. 322–350

CHAPTER XII.

DOWN THE RIVER TO PARÁ.—EXCURSIONS ON THE COAST.

Farewell Visit to the Great Cascade at Manaos.—Change in its
Aspect.—Arrival at Villa Bella.—Return to the House of the
Fisherman Maia.—Excursion to the Lago Maximo.—Quantity of
Game and Waterfowl.—Victoria regia.—Leave Villa Bella.—Arrive
at Obydos.—Its Situation and Geology.—Santarem.—Visit to the
Church.—Anecdote of Martius.—A Row overland.—Monte
Alégre.—Picturesque Scenery.—Banheiras.—Excursion into the
Country.—Leave Monte Alégre.—Anecdote of
Indians.—Almeyrim.—New Geological Facts.—Porto do
Moz.—Collections.—Gurupá.—Tajapurú.—Arrive at Pará.—Religious
Procession.—Excursion to Marajo.—Sourés.—Jesuit
Missions.—Geology of Marajo.—Buried
Forest.—Vigia.—Igarapé.—Vegetation and Animal
Life.—Geology.—Return to Pará.—Photographing Plants.—Notes on
the Vegetation of the Amazons.—Prevalence of Leprosy. 351–396