Chapter I: Preface

There is an old Italian proverb, which says a man has lived to no purpose, unless he has either built a house, begotten a son, or written a book. As I have already complied more than once with the latter of these requisitions, I must seek to justify the present repetition thereof, on other grounds. My reasons for offering this volume to the public are, simply, that there is room for it. It is the record of a journey which led me, for the most part, over fresh fields, by paths which comparatively few had trodden before me. Although I cannot hope to add much to the general stock of information concerning Central Africa, I may serve, at least, as an additional witness, to confirm or illustrate the evidence of others. Hence, the preparation of this work has appeared to me rather in the light of a duty than a diversion, and I have endeavored to impart as much instruction as amusement to the reader. While seeking to give correct pictures of the rich, adventurous life into which I was thrown, I have resisted the temptation to yield myself up to its more subtle and poetic aspects. My aim has been to furnish a faithful narrative of my own experience, believing that none of those embellishments which the imagination so readily furnishes, can equal the charm of the unadorned truth.

There are a few words of further explanation which I wish to say. The journey was undertaken solely for the purpose of restoring a frame exhausted by severe mental labor. A previous experience of a tropical climate convinced me that I should best accomplish my object by a visit to Egypt, and as I had a whole winter before me, I determined to penetrate as far into the interior of Africa as the time would allow, attracted less by the historical and geographical interest of those regions than by the desire to participate in their free, vigorous, semi-barbaric life. If it had been my intention, as some of my friends supposed, to search for the undiscovered sources of the White Nile, I should not have turned back, until the aim was accomplished or all means had failed.

I am aware that, by including in this work my journey through Egypt, I have gone over much ground which is already familiar. Egypt, however, was the vestibule through which I passed to Ethiopia and the kingdoms beyond, and I have not been able to omit my impressions of that country without detracting from the completeness of the narrative. This book is the record of a single journey, which, both in its character and in the circumstances that suggested and accompanied it, occupies a separate place in my memory. Its performance was one uninterrupted enjoyment, for, whatever the privations to which it exposed me, they were neutralized by the physical delight of restored health and by a happy confidence in the successful issue of the journey, which never forsook me. It is therefore but just to say, that the pictures I have drawn may seem over-bright to others who may hereafter follow me; and I should warn all such that they must expect to encounter many troubles and annoyances.

Although I have described somewhat minutely the antiquities of Nubia and Ethiopia which I visited, and have not been insensible to the interest which every traveller in Egypt must feel in the remains of her ancient art, I have aimed at giving representations of the living races which inhabit those countries rather than the old ones which have passed away. I have taken it for granted that the reader will feel more interested—as I was—in a live Arab, than a dead Pharaoh. I am indebted wholly to the works of Champollion, Wilkinson and Lepsius for whatever allusions I have made to the age and character of the Egyptian ruins.

B. T.

NEW YORK, July, 1854.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Arrival at Alexandria—The Landing—My First Oriental Bath—The
City—Preparations for Departure, 13

CHAPTER II.

Departure—The Kangia—The Egyptian Climate—The Mahmoudieh
Canal—Entrance into the Nile—Pleasures of the Journey—Studying
Arabic—Sight of the Pyramids—The Barrage—Approach to Cairo, 21

CHAPTER III.

Entrance—The Ezbekiyeh—Saracenic Houses—Donkeys—The Bazaars—The
Streets—Processions—View from the Citadel—Mosque of Mohammed
Ali—The Road to Suez—The Island of Rhoda, 34

CHAPTER IV.

Necessity of Leaving Immediately—Engaging a Boat—The
Dragomen—Achmet el Saïdi—Funds—Information—Procuring an
Outfit—Preparing for the Desert—The Lucky Day—Exertions to
Leave—Off, 46

CHAPTER V.

Howling Dervishes—A Chicken Factory—Ride to the
Pyramids—Quarrel with the Arabs—The Ascent—View from
the Summit—Backsheesh—Effect of Pyramid-climbing—The
Sphinx—Playing the Cadi—We obtain Justice—Visit to Sakkara
and the Mummy Pits—The Exhumation of Memphis—Interview with
M. Mariette—Account of his Discoveries—Statue of Remeses
II.—Return to the Nile, 55

CHAPTER VI.

Leaving the Pyramids—A Calm and a Breeze—A Coptic
Visit—Minyeh—The Grottoes of Beni-Hassan—Doum Palms
and Crocodiles—Djebel Aboufayda—Entrance into Upper
Egypt—Diversions of the Boatmen—Siout—Its Tombs—A Landscape—A
Bath, 71

CHAPTER VII.

Independence of Nile Life—The Dahabiyeh—Our Servants—Our
Residence—Our Manner of Living—The Climate—The
Natives—Costume—Our Sunset Repose—My Friend—A Sensuous Life
Defended, 85

CHAPTER VIII.

Calm—Mountains and Tombs—A Night Adventure in Ekhmin—Character
of the Boatmen—Fair Wind—Pilgrims—Egyptian Agriculture—Sugar
and Cotton—Grain—Sheep—Arrival at Kenneh—A Landscape—The Temple
of Dendera—First Impressions of Egyptian Art—Portrait of
Cleopatra—A Happy Meeting—We approach Thebes, 98

CHAPTER IX.

Arrival at Thebes—Ground-Plan of the Remains—We Cross
to the Western Bank—Guides—The Temple of Goorneh—Valley
of the Kings’ Tombs—Belzoni’s Tomb—The Races of
Men—Vandalism of Antiquarians—Bruce’s Tomb—Memnon—The
Grandfather of Sesostris—The Head of Amunoph—The Colossi
of the Plain—Memnonian Music—The Statue of Rameses—The
Memnonium—Beauty of Egyptian Art—More Scrambles among the
Tombs—The Bats of the Assasseef—Medeenet Abou—Sculptured
Histories—The Great Court of the Temple—We return to Luxor, 113

CHAPTER X.

The Dancing Girls of Egypt—A Night Scene in Luxor—The
Orange-Blossom and the Apple-Blossom—The Beautiful Bemba—The
Dance—Performance of the Apple-Blossom—The Temple of Luxor—A
Mohammedan School—Gallop to Karnak—View of the Ruins—The Great
Hall of Pillars—Bedouin Diversions—A Night Ride—Karnak under
the Full Moon—Farewell to Thebes, 131

CHAPTER XI.

The Temple of Hermontis—Esneh and its Temple—The Governor—El
Kab by Torch-light—The Temple of Edfou—The Quarries of Djebel
Silsileh—Ombos—Approach to Nubia—Change in the Scenery and
Inhabitants—A Mirage—Arrival at Assouan, 145

CHAPTER XII.

An Official Visit—Achmet’s Dexterity—The Island of
Elephantine—Nubian Children—Trip to Philæ—Linant Bey—The Island
of Philæ—Sculptures—The Negro Race—Breakfast in a Ptolemaic
Temple—The Island of Biggeh—Backsheesh—The Cataract—The Granite
Quarries of Assouan—The Travellers separate, 152

CHAPTER XIII.

Solitary Travel—Scenery of the Nubian Nile—Agriculture—The
Inhabitants—Arrival at Korosko—The Governor—The Tent
Pitched—Shekh Abou-Mohammed—Bargaining for Camels—A Drove of
Giraffes—Visits—Preparations for the Desert—My Last Evening on
the Nile, 162

CHAPTER XIV.

The Curve of the Nile—Routes across the Desert—Our
Caravan starts—Riding on a Dromedary—The Guide and
Camel-drivers—Hair-dressing—El Biban—Scenery—Dead
Camels—An Unexpected Visit—The Guide makes my Grave—The
River without Water—Characteristics of the Mirage—Desert
Life—The Sun—The Desert Air—Infernal Scenery—The Wells of
Mûrr-hàt—Christmas—Mountain Chains—Meeting Caravans—Plains of
Gravel—The Story of Joseph—Djebel Mokràt—The Last Day in the
Desert—We see the Nile again, 171

CHAPTER XV.

A Draught of Water—Abou-Hammed—The Island of Mokràt—Ethiopian
Scenery—The People—An Ababdeh Apollo—Encampment on
the Nile—Tomb of an Englishman—Eesa’s Wedding—A White
Arab—The Last Day of the Year—Abou-Hashym—Incidents—Loss
of my Thermometer—The Valley of Wild Asses—The Eleventh
Cataract—Approach to Berber—Vultures—Eyoub Outwitted—We reach
El Mekheyref—The Caravan Broken up, 198

CHAPTER XVI.

A Wedding—My Reception by the Military Governor—Achmet—The
Bridegroom—A Guard—I am an American Bey—Kèff—The Bey’s
Visit—The Civil Governor—About the Navy—The Priest’s
Visit—Riding in State—The Dongolese Stallion—A Merchant’s
House—The Town—Dinner at the Governor’s—The Pains of Royalty—A
Salute to the American Flag—Departure, 206

CHAPTER XVII.

Fortunate Travel—The America—Ethiopian Scenery—The Atbara
River—Damer—A Melon Patch—Agriculture—The Inhabitants—Change of
Scenery—The First Hippopotamus—Crocodiles—Effect of My Map—The
Raïs and Sailors—Arabs in Ethiopia—Ornamental Scars—Beshir—The
Slave Bakhita—We Approach Meroë, 219

CHAPTER XVIII.

Arrival at Bedjerowiyeh—The Ruins of Meroë—Walk Across the
Plain—The Pyramids—Character of their Masonry—The Tower
and Vault—Finding of the Treasure—The Second Group—More
Ruins—Site of the City—Number of the Pyramids—The Antiquity
of Meroë—Ethiopian and Egyptian Civilization—The Caucasian
Race—Reflections, 229

CHAPTER XIX.

The Landscapes of Ethiopia—My Evenings beside the
Nile—Experiences of the Arabian Nights—The Story of the
Sultana Zobeide and the Wood-cutter—Character of the Arabian
Tales—Religion, 238

CHAPTER XX.

Arrival at Shendy—Appearance of the Town—Shendy in Former
Days—We Touch at El Metemma—The Nile beyond Shendy—Flesh
Diet vs. Vegetables—We Escape Shipwreck—A Walk on Shore—The
Rapids of Derreira—Djebel Gerri—The Twelfth Cataract—Night
in the Mountain Gorge—Crocodiles—A Drink of Mareesa—My
Birth-Day—Fair Wind—Approach to Khartoum—The Junction of the
Two Niles—Appearance of the City—We Drop Anchor, 258

CHAPTER XXI.

The American Flag—A Rencontre—Search for a House—The Austrian
Consular Agent—Description of his Residence—The Garden—The
Menagerie—Barbaric Pomp and State—Picturesque Character of
the Society of Khartoum—Foundation and Growth of the City—Its
Appearance—The Population—Unhealthiness of the Climate—Assembly
of Ethiopian Chieftains—Visit of Two Shekhs—Dinner and
Fireworks, 270

CHAPTER XXII.

Visit to the Catholic Mission—Dr. Knoblecher, the Apostolic
Vicar—Moussa Bey—Visit to Lattif Pasha—Reception—The
Pasha’s Palace—Lions—We Dine with the Pasha—Ceremonies upon
the Occasion—Music—The Guests—The Franks in Khartoum—Dr.
Péney—Visit to the Sultana Nasra—An Ethiopian Dinner—Character
of the Sultana, 280

CHAPTER XXIII.

Recent Explorations of Soudân—Limit of the Tropical Rains—The
Conquest of Ethiopia—Countries Tributary to Egypt—The District
of Takka—Expedition of Moussa Bey—The Atbara River—The
Abyssinian Frontier—Christian Ruins of Abou-Haràss—The
Kingdom of Sennaar—Kordofan—Dar-Fūr—The Princess of Dar-Fūr
in Khartoum—Her Visit to Dr. Reitz—The Unknown Countries of
Central Africa, 297

CHAPTER XXIV.

Excursions around Khartoum—A Race into the Desert—Euphorbia
Forest—The Banks of the Blue Nile—A Saint’s Grave—The
Confluence of the Two Niles—Magnitude of the Nile—Comparative
Size of the Rivers—Their Names—Desire to penetrate further into
Africa—Attractions of the White Nile—Engage the Boat _John
Ledyard_—Former Restrictions against exploring the River—Visit
to the Pasha—Despotic Hospitality—Achmet’s Misgivings—We set
sail, 309

CHAPTER XXV.

Departure from Khartoum—We enter the White Nile—Mirage and
Landscape—The Consul returns—Progress—Loss of the Flag—Scenery
of the Shores—Territory of the Hassaniyehs—Curious Conjugal
Custom—Multitudes of Water Fowls—Increased Richness of
Vegetation—Apes—Sunset on the White Nile—We reach the Kingdom
of the Shillook Negroes, 320

CHAPTER XXVI.

Morning—Magnificence of the Island Scenery—Birds and
Hippopotami—Flight of the Natives—The Island of Aba—Signs
of Population—A Band of Warriors—The Shekh and the Sultan—A
Treaty of Peace—The Robe of Honor—Suspicions—We walk to the
Village—Appearance of the Shillooks—The Village—The Sultan
gives Audience—Women and Children—Ornaments of the Natives—My
Watch—A Jar of Honey—Suspicion and Alarm—The Shillook and the
Sultan’s Black Wife—Character of the Shillooks—The Land of the
Lotus—Population of the Shillook Kingdom—The Turning Point—A
View from the Mast-Head, 329

CHAPTER XXVII.

Explorations of the White Nile—Dr. Knoblecher’s Voyage in
1849-50—The Lands of the Shillooks and Dinkas—Intercourse with
the Natives—Wild Elephants and Giraffes—The Sobat River—The
Country of Marshes—The Gazelle Lake—The Nuehrs—Interview
with the Chief of the Kyks—The Zhir Country—Land of the
Baris—The Rapids Surmounted—Arrival at Logwek, in Lat.
4° 10′ North—Panorama from Mt. Logwek—Sources of the
White Nile—Character of the Bari Nation—Return of the
Expedition—Fascination of the Nile, 345

CHAPTER XXVIII.

We leave the Islands of the Shillooks—Tropical Jungles—A Whim
and its Consequences—Lairs of Wild Beasts—Arrival among the
Hassaniyehs—A Village—The Woman and the Sultan—A Dance of
Salutation—My Arab Sailor—A Swarthy Cleopatra—Salutation of the
Saint—Miraculous Fishing—Night View of a Hassaniyeh Village—Wad
Shèllayeh—A Shekh’s Residence—An Ebony Cherub—The Cook Attempts
Suicide—Evening Landscape—The Natives and their Cattle—A Boyish
Governor—We reach Khartoum at Midnight, 356

CHAPTER XXIX.

The Departure of Abd-el Kader Bey—An Illuminated Picture—The
Breakfast on the Island—Horsemanship—The Pasha’s
Stories—Departure of Lattif Effendi’s Expedition—A Night
on the Sand—Abou-Sin, and his Shukoree Warriors—Change
in the Climate—Intense Heat and its Effects—Preparations
for Returning—A Money Transaction—Farewell Visits—A
Dinner with Royal Guests—Jolly King Dyaab—A Shillook
Dance—Reconciliation—Taking Leave of my Pets, 372

CHAPTER XXX.

The Commerce of Soudân—Avenues of Trade—The Merchants—Character
of the Imports—Speculation—The Gum Trade of Kordofan—The Ivory
Trade—Abuses of the Government—The Traffic in Slaves—Prices of
Slaves—Their Treatment, 384

CHAPTER XXXI.

Farewell Breakfast—Departure from Khartoum—Parting with Dr.
Reitz—A Prediction and its Fulfilment—Dreary Appearance of
the Country—Lions—Burying-Grounds—The Natives—My Kababish
Guide, Mohammed—Character of the Arabs—Habits of Deception—My
Dromedary—Mutton and Mareesa—A Soudân Ditty—The Rowyàn—Akaba
Gerri—Heat and Scenery—An Altercation with the Guide—A Mishap—A
Landscape—Tedious Approach to El Metemma—Appearance of the
Town—Preparations for the Desert—Meeting Old Acquaintances, 392

CHAPTER XXXII.

Entering the Desert—Character of the Scenery—Wells—Fear of
the Arabs—The Laloom Tree—Effect of the Hot Wind—Mohammed
overtakes us—Arab Endurance—An unpleasant Bedfellow—Comedy
of the Crows—Gazelles—We encounter a Sand-storm—The Mountain
of Thirst—The Wells of Djeekdud—A Mountain Pass—Desert
Intoxication—Scenery of the Table-land—Bir Khannik—The
Kababish Arabs—Gazelles again—Ruins of an Ancient Coptic
Monastery—Distant View of the Nile Valley—Djebel Berkel—We come
into Port, 406

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Our whereabouts—Shekh Mohammed Abd e’-Djebàl—My residence
at Abdôm—Crossing the River—A Superb Landscape—The Town of
Merawe—Ride to Djebel Berkel—The Temples of Napata—Ascent of
the Mountain—Ethiopian Panorama—Lost and Found—The Pyramids—The
Governor of Merawe—A Scene in the Divan—The Shekh and I—The
Governor Dines with me—Ruins of the City of Napata—A Talk about
Religions—Engaging Camels for Wadi-Halfa—The Shekh’s Parting
Blessing, 421

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Appearance of the Country—Korti—The Town of Ambukol—The
Caravan reorganized—A Fiery Ride—We reach Edabbe—An
Illuminated Landscape—A Torment—Nubian Agriculture—Old
Dongola—The Palace-Mosque of the Nubian Kings—A Panorama
of Desolation—The Old City—Nubian Gratitude—Another
Sand-Storm—A Dreary Journey—The Approach to Handak—A House
of Doubtful Character—The Inmates—Journey to El Ordee (New
Dongola)—Khoorshid Bey—Appearance of the Town, 438

CHAPTER XXXV.

We start for Wadi-Halfa—The Plague of Black Gnats—Mohammed’s
Coffin—The Island of Argo—Market-Day—Scenery of the
Nile—Entering Dar El-Màhass—Ruined Fortresses—The Camel-Men—A
Rocky Chaos—Fakir Bender—The Akaba of Màhass—Camp in the
Wilderness—The Charm of Desolation—The Nile again—Pilgrims from
Dar-Fūr—The Struggle of the Nile—An Arcadian Landscape—The
Temple of Soleb—Dar Sukkôt—The Land of Dates—The Island of
Sai—A Sea of Sand—Camp by the River—A Hyena Barbecue, 457

CHAPTER XXXVI.

The Batn El-Hadjar, or Belly of Stone—Ancient Granite
Quarries—The Village of Dal—A Ruined Fortress—A Wilderness of
Stones—The Hot Springs of Ukmé—A Windy Night—A Dreary Day in
the Desert—The Shekh’s Camel Fails—Descent to Samneh—The Temple
and Cataract—Meersheh—The Sale of Abou-Sin—We Emerge from the
Belly of Stone—A Kababish Caravan—The Rock of Abou-Seer—View
of the Second Cataract—We reach Wadi-Halfa—Selling my
Dromedaries—Farewell to Abou-Sin—Thanksgiving on the
Ferry-boat—Parting with the Camel-men, 471

CHAPTER XXXVII.

Wadi Haifa—A Boat for Assouan—We Embark on the Nile
Again—An Egyptian Dream—The Temples of Abou-Simbel—The
Smaller Temple—The Colossi of Remeses II.—Vulgarity of
Travellers—Entering the Great Temple—My Impressions—Character
of Abou-Simbel—The Smaller Chambers—The Races of Men—Remeses
and the Captive Kings—Departure, 486

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

I Lose my Sunshine, and Regain it—Nubian Scenery—Derr—The
Temple of Amada—Mysterious Rappings—Familiar Scenes—Halt at
Korosko—Escape from Shipwreck—The Temple of Sebooa—Chasing
other Boats—Temple of Djerf Hossayn—A Backsheesh
Experiment—Kalabshee—Temple of Dabôd—We reach the Egyptian
Frontier, 495

CHAPTER XXXIX.

Assouan—A Boat for Cairo—English Tourists—A
Head-wind—Ophthalmia—Esneh—A Mummied Princess—Ali Effendi’s
Stories—A Donkey Afrite—Arrival at Luxor—The Egyptian Autumn—A
Day at Thebes—Songs of the Sailors—Ali leaves me—Ride to
Dendera—Head-winds again—Visit to Tahtah—The House of Rufaā
Bey, 506

CHAPTER XL.

Siout in Harvest-time—A kind Englishwoman—A Slight Experience
of Hasheesh—The Calm—Rapid Progress down the Nile—The Last
Day of the Voyage—Arrival at Cairo—Tourists preparing for the
Desert—Parting with Achmet—Conclusion, 517

JOURNEY TO CENTRAL AFRICA.