Chapter I: Front Matter

Transcriber's Note:

Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have
been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.

Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.

Listed Errata were corrected.

Mis-spellings of non-English words were retained as printed.
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On page 144, the phrase starting "and perhaps for such a"
seems to be missing words.

A JULY HOLIDAY
IN
SAXONY, BOHEMIA, AND SILESIA.

A JULY HOLIDAY
IN
SAXONY, BOHEMIA, AND SILESIA.

BY WALTER WHITE,

AUTHOR OF "A LONDONER'S WALK TO THE LAND'S END;"
"ON FOOT THROUGH TYROL."

"Ne wolde he call upon the Nine;
'I wote,' he sayde, 'they be but jyltes:'
Ne covet when he wander'd forth
Icarus' wings--ne traytor stiltes."

_Old Author._

LONDON:
CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193, PICCADILLY.
MDCCCLVII.

[_The right of Translation is reserved._]

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

PAGE

What the Bookseller said -- A Walk in Frankfort -- What the
Portress said -- Glimpses of Landscapes -- Forest and River
-- Würzburg -- Stein Wine -- View from the Citadel-hill -- A
Change of Bedrooms -- Coming to an Understanding with the
Reader -- Good Night! 1

CHAPTER II.

Würzburg -- The University -- Red, Green, and Orange Caps
-- The Marienkapelle -- The Market -- The Cathedral -- The
Palace -- Spacious Cellars -- A Professor's Hospitality --
To Bamberg -- Frost -- Hof -- A Shabby Peace -- The
Arch-Poisoner -- Dear Bread -- A Prime Minister Hanged --
Altenburg -- The Park -- The Castle -- Reminiscences and
Antiquities -- The Chapel -- The Princes' Vault -- Wends --
Costumes in the Market-place -- Female Cuirassiers -- More
about the Wends -- Grossen Teich -- The Plateau -- The
Cemetery -- Werdau 11

CHAPTER III.

Origin of Altenburg -- Prosperous Burghers -- A Princely
Crime -- Hussite Plunderers -- Luther's Visits -- French
Bonfire -- Electress Margaret's Dream -- Kunz von
Kauffungen -- "Don't burn the Fish" -- A Conspiracy --
Midnight Robbers -- Two Young Princes Stolen -- The Flight
-- The Alarm -- The Köhler -- The Rescue -- Kunz Beheaded
-- The _Triller's_ Reward, and what a famous Author said
concerning it 25

CHAPTER IV.

Zwickau -- Beer Bridge -- Beer Mount -- The Triller Estate
-- Triller Bierbrauerei -- The Braumeister -- The Beer --
Four Hundredth Anniversary of the Prinzenraub -- A Friendly
Clerk -- "You will have a Tsigger?" -- Historical Portraits
-- A Good Name for a Brewery -- A Case of Disinterestedness
-- Up the Church Tower -- The Prospect -- Princess
Schwanhildis -- The Fire-god Zwicz -- Luther's Table -- The
Church -- Geysers -- Petrified Beds -- Historical Houses --
Walk to Oberhaselau -- The Card-players -- The Wagoners 33

CHAPTER V.

Across the Mulde -- Scenery -- Feet _versus_ Wheels --
Villages -- English Characteristics -- Timbered Houses --
Schneeberg -- Stones for Lamps -- The Way Sunday was Kept
-- The Church -- A Wagon-load of Music -- A Surly Host --
Where the Pepper Grows -- Eybenstock -- Neustädl -- Fir
Forests -- Wildenthal -- Four Sorts of Beer -- Potato
Dumplings -- Up the Auersberg -- Advertisements -- The
School -- The Instrument of Order -- "Look at the
Englishman" -- The Erzgebirge -- The Guard-house -- Into
Bohemia -- Romish Symbols -- Hirschenstand -- Another
Guard-house -- Differences of Race -- Czechs and Germans
-- Shabby Carpentry -- Change of Scenery -- Neudeck --
Arrive at Carlsbad -- A Glass Boot -- Gossip 43

CHAPTER VI.

Dr. Fowler's Prescription -- Carlsbad -- "A Matlocky sort
of a Place" -- Springs and Swallows -- Tasting the Water --
The Cliffs and Terraces -- Comical Signs -- The Wiese and
its Frequenters -- Disease and Health -- The Sprudel: its
Discharge; its Deposit -- The Stoppage -- Volcanic
Phenomena -- Dr. Granville's Observations -- Care's Rest --
Dreikreuzberg -- View from the Summit -- König Otto's Höhe
-- "Are you here for the Cure?" -- Lenten Diet --
Hirschsprung -- The Trumpeters -- Two Florins for a Bed 61

CHAPTER VII.

Departure from Carlsbad -- Dreifaltigkeits-Kirche --
Engelhaus -- The Castle -- A Melancholy Village -- Up to
the Ruins -- An Imperial Visit -- Bohemian Scenery -- On to
Buchau -- The Inn -- A Crowd of Guests -- Roast Goose --
Inspiriting Music -- Prompt Waiters -- The Mysterious
Passport -- The Military Adviser -- How he Solved the
Mystery -- A Baron in Spite of Himself -- The Baron's
Footbath -- Lighting the Baron to Bed 77

CHAPTER VIII.

Dawn -- The Noisy Gooseherd -- Geese, for Home Consumption
and Export -- Still the Baron -- The Ruins of Hartenstein
-- Glimpses of Scenery and Rural Life -- Liebkowitz --
Lubenz -- Schloss Petersburg -- Big Rooms -- Tipplers and
Drunkards -- Wagoners and Peasants -- A Thrifty Landlord --
Inquisitorial Book -- Awful Gendarme -- Paternal Government
-- Fidgets -- How it is in Hungary -- Wet Blankets for
Philosophers -- An Unhappy Peasant 86

CHAPTER IX.

The Village -- The Peasant again -- The Road-mender --
Among the Czechs -- Czechish Speech and Characteristics --
Crosses -- Horosedl -- The Old Cook -- More Praise of
England -- The Dinner -- A Journey-Companion -- Famous
Files -- A Mechaniker's Earnings -- Kruschowitz -- Rentsch
-- More Czechish Characteristics -- Neu Straschitz -- A
Word in Season from Old Fuller -- The Mechaniker departs 96

CHAPTER X.

A Talk with the Landlord -- A Jew's Offer -- A Ride in a
Wagen -- Talk with the Jew -- The Stars -- A Mysterious
Gun-barrel -- An Alarm -- Stony Ammunition -- The Man with
the Gun -- The Jew's opinion of him -- Sunrise -- A Walk --
The White Hill -- A Fatal Field -- Waking up in the Suburbs
-- Early Breakfasts -- Imperial and Royal Tobacco
-- Milk-folk -- The Gate of Prague -- A Snappish Sentry --
The Soldiers -- Into the City -- Picturesque Features and
crowding Associations -- The Kleinseite -- The Bridge --
Palaces -- The Altstadt -- Remarkable Streets -- The
Teinkirche -- The Neustadt -- The Three Hotels 105

CHAPTER XI.

The Hausknecht -- A Place to Lose Yourself --
Street-Phenomena -- Book-shops -- Glass-wares -- Cavernous
Beer-houses -- Signs -- Czechish Names -- Ugly Women --
Swarms of Soldiers -- A Scene on the Bridge -- A Drateñik
-- The Ugly Passport Clerk -- The Suspension-bridge -- The
Islands -- The Slopes of the Laurenzberg -- View over Prague
-- Schools, Palaces, and Poverty -- The Rookery -- The
Hradschin -- The Courts -- The Cathedral -- The Great Tomb
-- The Silver Shrine -- Relics -- A Kissed Portrait -- St.
Wenzel's Chapel -- Big Sigmund -- The Loretto Platz -- The
Old Towers -- The Hill-top and Hill-foot 118

CHAPTER XII.

The Tandelmarkt -- Old Men and Boys at Rag Fair -- Jews in
Prague -- The Judenstadt -- Schools and Synagogues -- Remote
Antiquity -- Ducal Victims -- Jewish Bravery -- Removal of
Boundary Wires 131

CHAPTER XIII.

The Jewish Sabbath -- The Old Synagogue -- Traditions
concerning it -- The Gloomy Interior -- The Priests -- The
Worshippers and the Worship -- The Talkers -- The Book of
the Law -- The Rabbi -- The Startling Gun -- A Birth at
Vienna -- Departed Glory 136

CHAPTER XIV.

The Alte Friedhof -- A Stride into the Past -- The Old
Tombs -- Vegetation and Death -- Haunted Graves -- Ancient
Epitaph -- Rabbi Löw -- His Scholars -- Symbols of the
Tribes -- The Infant's Coffin -- The Playground -- From
Death to Life 141

CHAPTER XV.

The Kolowratstrasse -- Picolomini's Palace -- The Museum --
Geological Affluence -- Early Czechish Bibles -- Rare Old
Manuscripts -- Letters of Huss and Ziska -- Tabor Hill --
Portraits -- Hussite Weapons -- Antiques -- Doubtful
Hussites in the Market-place -- The Glückliche Entbindung
-- A Te Deum -- Two Evening Visits -- Bohemian Hospitality
-- The Gaslit Beer-house 146

CHAPTER XVI.

Sunday Morning in Prague -- Gay Dresses -- Pleasure-seeking
Citizens -- Service in the Hradschin Cathedral -- Prayers
and Pranks -- Fun in the Organ-loft -- Glorious Music -- A
Spell broken -- Priests and their Robes -- Osculations -- A
Flaunting Procession -- An Old Topographer's Raptures --
The Schwarzes Ross -- Flight from Prague -- Lobositz -- Lost
in a Swamp -- A Storm -- Up the Milleschauer -- After Dark
-- The Summit -- Mossy Quarters -- The Host's Story 153

CHAPTER XVII.

Morning on the Milleschauer -- The Brightening Landscape --
The Mossy Quarters by Daylight -- Delightful Down-hill Walk
-- Lobositz again -- The Steam-boat -- Queer Passengers --
Sprightly Music -- Romantic Scenery -- Hills and Cliffs --
Schreckenstein -- How the Musicians paid their Fare --
Aussig -- The Spürlingstein -- Fairer Landscapes -- Elbe
_versus_ Rhine -- Tetschen -- German Faces -- Women-Waders
-- The Schoolmaster -- Passport again -- Pretty Country --
Signs of Industry -- Peasants' Diet -- Markersdorf --
Rustic Cottages -- Gersdorf -- Meistersdorf -- School --
Trying the Scholars -- Good Results -- A Byeway --
Ulrichsthal 162

CHAPTER XVIII.

A Hospitable Reception -- A Rustic Household -- The
Mother's Talk -- Pressing Invitations -- A Docile Visitor --
The Family Room -- Trophies of Industry -- Overheating -- A
Walk in Ulrichsthal -- A Glass Polisher and his Family --
His Notions -- A Glass Engraver -- His Skill and Ingenuity
-- His Earnings -- A Bohemian's Opinion on English Singing
-- Military Service -- Beetle Pictures -- Glass-making in
Bohemia -- An Englishman's Forget-me-Not -- The Dinner --
Dessert on the Hill -- An Hour with the Haymakers --
Magical Kreutzers -- An Evening at the Wirthshaus --
Singing and Poetry -- A Moonlight Walk -- The Lovers' Test 174

CHAPTER XIX.

More Hospitality -- Farewells -- Cross Country Walk --
Steinschönau -- The Playbill -- Hayda -- All Glass-workers
-- Away for the Mountains -- Zwickau -- Gabel --
Weisskirchen -- A Peasant's Prayer -- Reichenberg --
Passport again -- Jeschkenpeak -- Reinowitz -- Schlag --
Neudorf -- A Talk at Grünheid -- Bad Sample of Lancashire
-- Tannwald -- Curious Rocks -- Spinneries -- Populousness
-- Przichowitz -- An Altercation -- Heavy Odds -- The
Englishman Wins -- A Word to the Company 190

CHAPTER XX.

Stephanshöh -- A Presumptuous Landlord -- Czechs again --
Stewed Weavers -- Prompt Civilities -- The Iser -- A Quiet
Vale -- Barrande's Opinion of the Czechs -- Rochlitz -- An
offshoot from Tyre -- A Happy Landlord -- A Rustic Guide
-- Hill Paths -- The Grünstein -- Rübezahl's Rose Garden --
Dreary Fells -- Source of the Elbe -- Solitude and Visitors
-- The Elbfall -- Stony Slopes -- Strange Rocks --
Rübezahl's Glove -- Knieholz -- Schneegruben -- View into
Silesia -- Tremendous Cliffs -- Basalt in Granite -- The
Landlord's Bazaar -- The Wandering Stone -- A Tragsessel --
A Desolate Scene -- Rougher Walking -- Musical Surprises --
Spindlerbaude -- The Mädelstein -- Great Pond and Little
Pond -- The Mittagstein -- The Riesengrund -- The Last
Zigzags -- An Inn in the Clouds 201

CHAPTER XXI.

Comforts on the Koppe -- Samples of Germany -- Provincial
Peculiarities -- Hilarity -- A Couplet worth remembering
-- Four-bedded Rooms -- View from the Summit -- Contrast of
Scenery -- The Summit itself -- Guides in Costume --
Moderate Charges -- Unlucky Farmer -- The Descent --
Schwarzkoppe -- Grenzbäuden -- Hungarian Wine -- The Way to
Adersbach -- Forty Years' Experience 218

CHAPTER XXII.

The Frontier Guard-house -- A Volunteer Guide -- A Knave --
Schatzlar -- Bernsdorf -- A Barefoot Philosopher -- A
Weaver's Happiness -- Altendorf -- Queer Beer -- A Short Cut
-- Blunt Manners -- Adersbach -- Singular Rocks -- Gasthaus
zur Felsenstadt -- The Rock City -- The Grand Entrance --
The Sugarloaf -- The Pulpit -- The Giant's Glove -- The
Gallows -- The Burgomaster -- Lord Brougham's Profile --
The Breslau Wool-market -- The Shameless Maiden -- The
Silver Spring -- The Waterfall -- A Waterspout -- The
Lightning Stroke 225

CHAPTER XXIII.

The Echo -- Wonderful Orchestra -- Magical Music -- A _Feu
de joie_ -- The Oration -- The Voices -- Echo and the
Humourist -- Satisfying the Guide -- Exploring the
Labyrinth -- Curious Discoveries -- Speculations of
Geologists -- Bohemia an Inland Sea -- Marble Labyrinth in
Spain -- A Twilight View -- After a' 235

CHAPTER XXIV.

Baked Chickens -- A Discussion -- Weckelsdorf -- More Rocks
-- The Stone of Tears -- Death's Alley -- Diana's Bath --
The Minster -- Gang of Coiners -- The Bohdanetskis -- Going
to Church -- Another Silesian View -- Good-bye to Bohemia
-- Schömberg -- Silesian Faces and Costume -- Picturesque
Market-place -- Ueberschar Hills -- Ullersdorf -- An amazed
Weaver -- Liebau -- Cheap Cherries -- The Prussian Simplon
-- Ornamented Houses -- Buchwald -- The Bober -- Dittersbach
-- Schmiedeberg -- Rübezahl's Trick upon Travellers --
Tourists' Rendezvous -- The Duellists' Successors --
Erdmannsdorf -- Tyrolese Colony 240

CHAPTER XXV.

Schnaps and Sausage -- Dresdener upon Berliners -- The
Prince's Castle at Fischbach -- A Home for the Princess
Royal -- Is the Marriage Popular? -- View from the Tower --
Tradition of the Golden Donkey -- Royal Palace at
Erdmannsdorf -- A Miniature Chatsworth -- The Zillerthal --
Käse and Brod -- Stohnsdorf -- Famous Beer -- Rischmann's
Cave -- Prophecies -- Warmbrunn 250

CHAPTER XXVI.

The Three Berliners -- Strong Beer -- Origin of Warmbrunn
-- St. John the Baptist's Day -- Count Schaffgotsch -- A
Benefactor -- A Library -- Something about Warmbrunn -- The
Baths -- Healing Waters -- The Allée -- Visitors -- Russian
Popes -- The Museum -- Trophies -- View of the Mountains --
The Kynast -- Cunigunda and her Lovers -- Served her right
-- The Two Breslauers -- Oblatt -- The Baths in the
Mountains 256

CHAPTER XXVII.

Hirschberg -- The Officers' Tomb -- A Night Journey --
Spiller -- Greifenberg -- Changing Horses -- A Royal Reply
-- A Griffin's Nest -- Lauban -- The Potato Jubilee --
Görlitz -- Peter and Paul Church -- View from the Tower --
The Landskrone -- Jacob Böhme -- The Hidden Gold -- A
Theosophist's Writings -- The Tombs -- The Underground
Chapel -- A Church copied from Jerusalem -- The Public
Library -- Loebau -- Herrnhut 262

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Head-Quarters of the Moravians -- Good Buildings -- Quiet,
Cleanliness, and Order -- A Gottesdienst -- The Church --
Simplicity -- The Ribbons -- A Requiem -- The Service --
God's-Field -- The Tombs -- Suggestive Inscriptions --
Tombs of the Zinzendorfs -- The Pavilion -- The Panorama --
The Herrnhuters' Work -- An Informing Guide -- No Merry
Voices -- The Heinrichsberg -- Pretty Grounds -- The First
Tree -- An Old Wife's Gossip -- Evening Service -- A
Contrast -- The Sisters' House -- A Stroll at Sunset -- The
Night Watch 269

CHAPTER XXIX.

About Herrnhut -- Persecutions in Moravia -- A Wandering
Carpenter -- Good Tidings -- Fugitives -- Squatters on the
Hutberg -- Count Zinzendorf's Steward -- The First Tree --
The First House -- Scoffers -- Origin of the Name -- More
Fugitives -- Foundation of the Union -- Struggles and
Encouragements -- Buildings -- Social Regulations -- Growth
of Trade -- War and Visitors -- Dürninger's Enterprise
-- Population -- Schools -- Settlements -- Missions -- Life
at Herrnhut -- Recreations -- Festivals -- Incidents of War
-- March of Troops -- Praise and Thank-Feasts 279