Chapter II: Preface: v

CHAPTER

I. FUNDAMENTAL SHOE TERMS 1

II. HIDES AND THEIR TREATMENT 4

III. PROCESSES OF TANNING 21

IV. THE ANATOMY OF THE FOOT 77

V. HOW SHOE STYLES ARE MADE 93

VI. DEPARTMENTS OF A SHOE FACTORY 103

VII. MCKAY AND TURNED SHOES 144

VIII. OLD-FASHIONED SHOEMAKING AND REPAIRING 162

IX. LEATHER AND SHOEMAKING TERMS 177

X. LEATHER PRODUCTS MANUFACTURE 218

XI. RUBBER SHOE MANUFACTURE AND TERMS 228

XII. HISTORY OF FOOTWEAR 250

INDEX 281

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

An Old-fashioned Shoemaker _Frontispiece_

FACING PAGE

Names of the Different Parts of Foot Wear 2

Green-salted Calfskin 12

Tanning Process 24

Tanning Process, showing Rotating Drums 28

Sole Leather Offal 34

Bones and Joints of the Human Foot 78

The Different Parts of the Foot and Ankle 78

A Last in Three Stages of Manufacture 98

A Modern Shoe Factory 104

A Skin Divided before Cutting 112

Cutting Leather 116

Goodyear Stitching 116

Stock Fitting Room 120

Lasting 124

Welting 124

Rough Rounding 128

Edge Trimming 128

Leveling 132

Heeling 132

Sole Scouring 136

Heel Shaping 136

Ironing 140

Packing 140

Cross Sections of Welt Shoe and McKay Sewed Shoe 144

Stitching 148

Tacking 148

Cross Section of Standard Screwed Shoe 160

Side of Leather divided as to Quality 168

Cross Section of McKay Sewed Shoe 200

Cross Section of Goodyear Welt Shoe 200

Crude Rubber 228

Washing and Drying 232

Calender Room 234

Cutting Room 236

Putting together the Parts of a Rubber Shoe 240

Heel-making Department 242

Parts of a Rubber Boot 248

Insole for Hand-sewed Shoe 264

Hand-sewed Shoe 264

Stitching Room of a German Shoe Factory 276

SHOEMAKING