Chapter VII: Part II: Forwarding (3)

The setting of the headband is the next operation, which is very important to the beauty of the binding, by properly forming a sort of cap over the worked headband of the leather projecting across the back a little above a right line from the square of one board to the other. With a small smooth folder, one end a little pointed, the double fold of the leather must be rubbed together to make it adhere, and, if the boards have been cut at the corners, the hand applied thereon, and finally forcing the headband close to the leather, staying it even on the back with the finger, and forming a neat cap of the projecting part on the top of it. The folder is then applied on the edges of the boards, to give them a square appearance and make the leather adhere. One board is then thrown back, the folder placed lengthwise along the joint or groove, holding it firmly by the right hand; the board is then gently forced by the left hand until it projects slightly within or over the joint. Upon this depends the freedom and squareness of the joint,--one of the most charming features of a well-bound book. After this operation has been performed upon both boards, the headbands will again require attention; and, in order to set them firmly, pass a piece of sewing-thread around the book between the back and the boards, and, after it is tied, manipulate the head as before, so as to make it perfectly square and even with the boards and back. The volume is rubbed alongside of the bands, and then set aside until nearly dry, when the thread is taken off and the boards again set in the joint.

If the book has been sewn on bands, or if the artificial bands are large, it is sometimes necessary, to make the leather adhere to the back, that the volume should be _tied up_, which is done by placing a board, longer than the book, on each side, projecting slightly over the fore-edge, and tying them tightly with a cord from end to end. Then, with a smaller cord, the leather is confined to the sides of the bands, by crossing the string. For example: suppose the book had three bands, one towards the head, one towards the tail, and the other in the middle; the book would be taken in the left hand, the head upwards, the cord by the help of a noose passed round close to the inside of the band nearest to the tail and drawn tight, then carried round again and brought close to the other side. The string, tightened, is thus crossed on the other side of the volume, and the band held between it. The cord is in like manner carried on to the second and third bands, fastened, and the whole set square with the folder. It will be best understood by the following engraving.

For morocco, and books in other substances, having but small bands, tying up is not resorted to, being generally rubbed close in with the folder, or a box stick for the purpose. Antique work having high, narrow bands, must have the leather well worked in between the bands by the hands, and then the bands must be compressed by the band-nippers. For morocco, however, where the beauty of the grain is liable to be destroyed, great care must be taken, as the slightest mark or scratch is indelible.

A few observations must not be omitted relative to morocco, velvet, silk, and coloured calf, which, from their nature, require the greatest neatness to avoid stains and alterations in the colours. Covers of the former description must not be drawn on too tight or rubbed with the folder, as the grain or pattern of the material would thereby be destroyed; and extra care must be taken with the coloured calf to prevent damage. They must be drawn on with the hands on each side at the same time. The table should be covered with a marble slab, and the hands kept perfectly clean. Silk should be prepared previously, by pasting a piece of paper thereon, and be left to dry, so that, when pasted for covering, the dampness will not affect its appearance. Velvet will require great care, from its peculiar texture making it necessary that it be rubbed one way only in covering. From this cause, having ascertained the direction of the _nap_, the back of the book is glued and laid upon it and drawn smoothly; then the sides are in like manner glued over, and afterwards the edges turned in. This proceeding causes the whole to lie perfectly smooth, which velvet would not do if drawn in a contrary way to the grain or nap, or if the glue was applied to the velvet.

HALF-BINDING.

Half-binding--so called from the backs and corners only being covered with leather--has come so much into vogue that it may now be said to be the favourite style of binding. This is not to be wondered at; for, while it combines economy and durability, it can also be made to exhibit a great deal of neatness. To do this, however, requires more care and skill in paring the back and corners than is generally required for full binding. The transition from the thick morocco to the paper used on the sides can be made almost imperceptible to the touch by a skilful use of the paring-knife or chisel. The general directions for covering will be sufficient for the class of work under consideration. After the back is lettered or finished, the corners may then be put on; and, after carefully marking and cutting the paper selected for the purpose, the sides should be glued carefully over and affixed to the boards, having sufficient projection to turn inside of the board far enough to be covered by the end-papers. The width of the back should be governed by the size of the volume. A narrow back gives a very meagre appearance to a book. The size of the corners should be determined by the width of the back. The end-papers are pasted down and the work finished in the same way as will be pointed out for binding in general. The colour of the paper used for sides should harmonize with the colour of the leather. The English generally prefer the inside-paper, the edges, and the outside-paper, to match; and it must be confessed that, when the paper is of good quality and the edges correspond, the effect is extremely good. The French generally use a light tint of marble-paper for the inside, and a darker shade for the outside. For durability as an outside-paper, there is nothing equal to the _papier d' Anonay_, vellum being one of its components. Of this article there are many worthless imitations, which yet in external appearance are well calculated to deceive. The real article will wear as well as the morocco used for the back and corners. The best class of half-binding for amateurs is the Font Hill style, half morocco, of the best quality; uncut leaves, so as to preserve the integrity of the margin; top-edge gilt, as a protection from dust; lined with the best English paper; worked-silk headbands; outside-paper to harmonize with the back; no gilding on the back except the lettering. This style requires extra pains in the forwarding and covering, as the slightest defect in these particulars cannot be remedied by the finisher. In other bindings, the brilliancy of the gilding often serves to conceal or to allure the eye from those portions of the binding that a workman would pronounce to be "botched."

Uncut books are trimmed to a general line with a large knife, similar to a butcher's-knife, previous to being glued up. They are the special favourites of book-collectors. An uncut copy of a scarce work will always command a higher price than one that has been cropped.

STATIONERY OR VELLUM BINDING.

This branch of the Art of Bookbinding, in large towns, is a distinct business, and presents some difference in the mode of proceeding in several of the manipulations required. These, as in previous parts of the work, will be minutely entered into for the instruction of the young workman, while those which are executed in the same manner as directed for printed books will be merely referred to in the order they will be required to be executed.

Stationery binding includes every description of paper-book, from the _Memorandum_, which is simply covered with marble-paper, to the most firm and elaborately bound book used in the counting-house of the merchant and banker. Of the more simple and common bindings, it will not be necessary to enter into minute details, the proceedings being the same as for others, only omitting the more expensive operations, the price allowed making it necessary to bind them in a more simple manner. The first proceeding, should the work require it, will be the

RULING.

This is done by a machine. Formerly it was done by hand. After the pens are properly adjusted, the paper to be ruled is placed upon the table in front of the ruling-machine, and the rollers set in motion. The sheet is caught and passed under the pens. It is then carried by the cloth and cords and laid away to give place to another. The most elaborate patterns can be executed upon the ruling-machine.

Although machine-ruling has almost entirely superseded the old process of ruling by hand, yet to some a brief description of the process may not be unacceptable.

The paper, which is generally procured from the wholesale stationers ruled with blue lines, must be opened out by breaking the back of the fold, and refolded evenly in small sections. The pattern for the red lines being placed in front, the whole must be knocked evenly up at the back and head, put between boards, the top of the paper projecting, and screwed in the laying-press. Then, with the saw, let the marks of the red ink on the pattern be sawn across the whole, which will denote the places for the lines on the right-hand side pages throughout the book. In like manner, placing the pattern on the other side, and sawing the bottom of the paper, will the marks of the left-hand pages be denoted. Care must be taken to leave a larger space on the fore-edge, to allow for cutting. Should a head-line be required, it must be similarly marked on the fore-edge of the paper. This done, reopen the whole of the sections, and, with a round ruler and tin pen, proceed to rule the whole of the head-lines on one side of the paper. This, as well as every division of $ cts., or other distinct column, must be ruled double, as close as possible, taking care that both are distinct, and that they do not run into each other. The head-line being completed on one side, turn the whole of the paper, and operate in like manner on the other. Then, turning the paper, so as to have the head-lines to the left, proceed to rule the columns marked for the _date_, _amount_, &c., taking especial care that the pen always commences by the line at the head, and that it never entrenches on the space above, which would disfigure the work. As for the head-line, so here the whole of one side of the paper must be completed before the other is commenced, attention being paid to each line being perpendicular, clear, and as even in colour as possible.

The cut on the following page represents a machine for printing the figures upon the head of the pages, formerly done by the accountant with a pen; but now no blank bindery is considered complete without a paging-machine. These machines are manufactured by H. Griffin, New York. The sheets are paged by this machine before they are sewed together. There are other machines in use that page the leaves after the volume is bound, the principal objection to which appears to be the liability to soil or otherwise injure the binding; notwithstanding this there are some binders who give them the preference. Those who have used the machines of Mr. Griffin speak of them in the highest terms.

INKS.

To give to the work the best effect, it will be necessary to be provided with good inks, and, it being connected with the subject, some receipts for their preparation are subjoined.

RED INK.

Mix together a quarter of a pound of Brazil dust, a quarter of an ounce of cochineal, a small piece of lump-sugar, and two quarts of vinegar: let these steep ten hours, and afterwards boil them on a slow fire till of a good red colour. When settled, strain the ink through a piece of fine cotton, and bottle it for use.

ANOTHER.

Boil in a quart of soft water a quarter of a pound of Brazil dust; when boiled, put in one ounce of ground alum, one ounce of white stone crystal, and boil for three minutes, and strain.

BLUE INK.

A good blue ink may be obtained by diffusing Prussian blue or indigo through strong gum-water. The common water-colour cakes, diffused also in gum-water, will produce a tolerably good blue for common purposes; but Dyer's blue, diluted with water is preferable to either.

BLACK.

Half a pound of nutgalls, a quarter of a pound of sulphate of zinc, (white vitriol,) two ounces of gum-arabic, and a handful of salt. Boil the nutgalls half an hour in three quarts of soft water, then put the whole together, and let stand for use.

ANOTHER.

For making a larger quantity, put in ten gallons of rain-water, five pounds and a quarter of nutgalls, well bruised, one pound and a half of logwood chips, the like quantity of copperas, and a quarter of a pound of alum. Let them stand a few days, and then add two ounces of gum-arabic and an ounce and a half of verdigris. Stir them all well together two or three times a day for a fortnight or three weeks, and the ink will then be fit for use.

FOLDING.

The whole being ruled, it will be proper to fold the book to the size required into sections for sewing. The number of leaves in each must depend on the thickness of the paper and size of the book, taking care that there are not so many as, when cut, to cause the leaves to start, or so few that the backs will be swollen too much by the thread. Then place the whole evenly in the standing-press for some time, and prepare the end-papers, which must be of blank paper, and outsides, unless the work is of a superior description. Should leather or cloth joints be placed, it will be necessary to sew them on with the end-papers, as before directed.

SEWING.

The sewing of stationery differs much from that of printed books. To allow of the greatest possible strength, elasticity, and freedom, they are sewn on slips of vellum without being marked with the saw, and the whole length of each sheet, with waxed thread. For small books, two slips will be sufficient; for foolscap folio, three will be required; and, where larger, the number must be increased, according to the length of the back, leaving a space of about two inches between each. The plan laid down by _M. Lesne_, (page 27,) might, perhaps, be adopted here with fine and light work to great advantage. The slips should be cut about an inch wide, and of sufficient length to extend about an inch over each side of the back. This portion being bent down at one end of the slips, they must be placed under the end-paper on the table at such places as may be deemed proper, and the section sewn the whole length; and so followed by every portion till the whole are attached in the same manner, taking care that the slips retain a perpendicular position and that the back be not too much swollen. Should a morocco joint have been inserted, it must be sewn on with strong silk of the same colour. When finished, the coloured end-papers, if any, must be pasted in, and the first and last ruled leaves similarly attached to the end-papers. If joints, the same precautions must be adopted as before directed. The book may then be beat even on the back and head, placed again in the laying-press, and glued up, working the brush well on the back, so as to force the glue between the sections.

CUTTING.

When the ends and back are dry, this will be the next operation. Here the fore-edge must be cut first. It is done before altering the form of the book, paying great attention to the knife running evenly across, so that the column nearest the front is not cut too close, and is parallel to the edge. When taken out, the back must be rounded with the hammer, in a greater degree than for other bindings, and placed again evenly in the standing-press. After remaining a short time the head and tail must in like manner be cut, but offer no difference in operation. The book will now be ready for colouring the edges, the processes of which have been already described. In England, the large Dutch marble is generally used for stationers' work.

BOARDING.

The next operation will be the preparation of the boards for the side-covers, which should be formed of two or three thin milled boards pasted together. These must be cut to the proper size with the plough, so as to leave a perfectly even edge, and will require to have a larger square allowed for than is usual in printed books. When cut they must be pasted together, leaving, if the book is heavy and the slips on which it is sewn thick, a space at the back to place them in. The book must now be head-banded, and then it will be proper to strengthen the back of the book by glueing across, on the spaces between the slips, strong pieces of canvas, and at the head and tail a piece of calf, leaving projections on each side to be attached to the board. For additional firmness, it was formerly usual, where the work was of a superior description, to sew the length of the book with catgut in about ten or fourteen places, according to the thickness. This is done by placing three strips of strong leather in spaces between the vellum ones, and sewing as at first, by which means the gut, crossing over the leather and under the vellum slips on the back, appears inside on the spaces where no thread has before passed. For ornament, another thread is twisted round the gut on the back, so as to present the appearance of a double cord. These matters being adjusted, the slips of calf at the head and tail must be let in by cutting the end of the waste leaf and placing them under. The other slips, of every description, after trimming, must then be put into the space left between the boards, which should be previously well pasted or glued, the boards placed nearly half an inch from the back, and perfectly square on the sides, and the whole screwed tightly in the standing-press for some time.

THE SPRING-BACK.

There are numerous ways of forming this description of back, and as generally adopted in different offices. As in other particulars, two or three of the best will here be given: 1. Having ascertained the width and length of the back, and provided a piece of strong pasteboard, or thin milled board, of little more than twice the width, fold one side rather more than half, and then the other, so that the middle space left will be the exact size required, which should be about a quarter of an inch wider than the back of the book; then cut evenly another piece, a little less than the width, then another still less, and so on for six or seven, lessening the width each time till the last is merely a narrow slip. Let the edges of the first, or cover for the whole, be pared, and laid open on the table; then glue the middle space, and place thereon the largest slip, which also glue, and add the next in size, proceeding in like manner till the smallest is fixed, taking especial care that each occupies the exact centre of the one on which it is placed. Finally, glue the whole space and the two side-slips of the first, which must be brought over and firmly rubbed down. Shape it to the curve of the back of the book, either on the back or a wooden roller of the same size, and leave it to dry, when the head and tail must be cut to the proper length with the shears. For greater security the whole is often covered with linen cloth.

2. Cut a piece of firm milled board to the size required, and pare down the edges; then hold the board to the fire till it is found soft enough to model almost into any shape, and form to the back as above directed. The board is sometimes wetted, but does not answer so well.

3. A beaten iron plate of the exact size, and covered with parchment or leather.

Numerous patents have been obtained for this description of back, but none have been found to answer the purpose, on account of the metal cutting through the parchment or leather.

The spring-back is only used for the superior kind of account-books; for common work, a piece of thin pasteboard is merely laid on the back before covering, the stress on the back being small.

To prevent the manufactured back slipping during the operation of covering, it is laid on, and a piece of cloth glued over and attached to the sides, similarly to the back of a half-bound book. This tends also to materially strengthen the back.

COVERING.

The materials generally used for stationery-binding are russia, rough calf, green and white vellum, and rough sheep, according to the value of the work. Previous to pasting on vellum, the book should be covered with a piece of strong paper, as if for boards. The process is the same as for other bindings; but when completed, it will be necessary to put the book in the standing-press, having pieces of cane or wood for the purpose placed between the boards and the back, so as to form a bold groove, and force the leather close on the edge of the spring-back. Previous to and after pressing, the headbands must be squarely set, taking care to rub out any wrinkles that may have been formed in turning in the cover. Should the book be very large, it may be advisable to give it a nip in the press immediately after folding in the fore-edges of the boards, and then finish the covering by turning in the head and tail.

As circumstances--such as the fancy of some previous workman, or coloured vellum not to be obtained so early as required--may make it necessary to execute the proper colours, the proceedings are here given.

GREEN.

Put one ounce of verdigris and one ounce of white wine vinegar into a bottle, and place them near the fire for five days, shaking it three or four times each day. Wash the vellum over with weak pearlash, and then colour it to the shade desired.

RED.

To one pint of white wine vinegar, put a quarter of a pound of Brazil dust and a piece of alum. Cork the mixture up; let it stand in a warm place for two or three days.

PURPLE.

Proceed as for the _red_, substituting logwood chips for the Brazil dust.

YELLOW.

Half an ounce of turmeric to half a pint of spirits of wine, prepared as above.

BLACK.

Wash the vellum over three times with the red, and while wet colour with strong marbling-ink.

Marbles and other designs may be formed on white vellum; but, as the proceedings have been so fully entered into before, it will not be necessary here to repeat them. Where russia bands are not added, the end-papers must now be pasted down, and the lettering, &c. proceeded with. If bands are attached, the pasting down of the end-papers and joints must be deferred till they are executed.

RUSSIA BANDS.

To give to large books the greatest possible degree of strength, it is usual to affix Russia bands to them. They are called _single_ when they extend about half-way down the sides, and _double_ when those at the head and tail reach to the corners of the boards, and are turned over the edges in the same manner as the cover. For _single_;--having ascertained the breadth by dividing the back with the compasses into _seven_ spaces, cut three pieces of russia perfectly square and the exact size of the spaces they are to occupy, and paste them on the _second_, _fourth_, and _sixth_ divisions of the back, thereby leaving in sight the first, third, fifth, and seventh spaces with the cover only; draw them squarely on the sides, and place the volume in the press, with the rods fixed to force the russia into the joints, as before directed, and then leave to dry. When _double_ bands are to be placed on a book, divide the back into five spaces, or seven if four bands. The middle band or bands will be short, like those above, and placed on in the same manner; but those at the head and tail, which extend their whole length, to the fore-edge of the boards, will require paring on the edge intended to be turned in at the headbands and over the boards of the book, cutting the corners and squaring the edges as in covering. When done, press the whole with rods as before, to cause the russia to adhere well and evenly to the vellum or calf, and leave it to dry.

CLASPS, CORNERS, AND BRASS BANDS.

Clasps are sometimes affixed to the better kind of stationery books, as keeping them closed when not in use tends much towards their preservation. And for still greater security, they are often further protected with brass corners or bands. To hide the projection the clasps would make on the fore-edge, that part of the board must be cut away to admit the clasp, so that when fixed it will be even with the edge of the board. For the corners and bands this is not done; but, to insure a finished appearance in the whole, the workman's attention must be directed to their fitting exactly in every particular of length, breadth, and thickness. The clasps may be purchased of the makers, but it may be found necessary to place the making of the bands and corners in the hands of the brass-worker, to whom particular directions and sizes must be given. They must fit tightly to the boards, run exactly parallel with the edges, and have the holes for the rivets drilled through previous to placing on. Where corners are put on, no bands will be required. Bands which extend from the back to the fore-edge and form a corner equal to the breadth of the band, being squarely soldered in front, are placed at the head and tail of the book, and fastened with rivets in the following manner, as are also the clasps and corners:--Pierce the boards with a fine bodkin in such places as are previously drilled in the brass, and force through brass rivets of a length sufficient to project about the eighth of an inch, and with heads made to fit exactly to the cavities formed in the bands; then fasten them firmly, by placing the heads of each on an iron and beating down with a hammer the part projecting inside, till it is smooth and even with the surface. Bosses, which are seen fixed on the middle of the boards of old books, particularly of early-bound Bibles, &c., in churches, are fastened in the same manner.

FINISHING.

The placing of lettering-pieces, gilding, and blind-tooling, is exactly the same as for printed books. Rough calf must be dressed with pumice-stone, cleaned with a brush, and ornamented blind, with the tools very hot, to form a dark impression. Vellum will require the tools cooler than calf. The book now being ready for the use of the accountant necessarily closes the details of this description of binding.

BOARDING.

In large places, this is another distinct branch of the art, and consists of simply covering the book with coloured paper or other common substance. In small towns, it must necessarily be executed jointly with the other branches; but so ample and minute has been the detail of the various manipulations in a previous part of this work, that, in attempting a description of BOARDING, little can be said without repetition. This style, too, being the commonest mode of doing up books in this country, also places the subject, under any circumstances, in a position requiring but little remark. Previous, therefore, to speaking of the few processes that are peculiar to boarding, it will only be necessary to observe that the folding, pressing, sewing, backing, boarding, covering, and pasting down, are the same as for regularly-bound books. It remains, then, to add that the books will not require beating, and, for common boards, are never cut round the edges. The leaves are only dressed with the trimming-knife previous to rounding the back, so as to present as neat an appearance as possible, by removing every portion of the paper projecting over the general line. For greater strength to the back, a piece of paper must be pasted in the centre of the coloured paper previously to applying it on the volume. When covered and pasted down, the printed label must be fixed evenly on the back, and the book will be finished.

CLOTH-WORK.

In the year 1825 a great revolution in boarding was begun by the introduction of cloth covers in place of the drab-coloured paper previously in use. The late Archibald Leighton, of London, was the inventor; and Mr. Pickering was the first publisher who adopted it. The first cloth covers had printed labels; but very soon Mr. Leighton made the discovery that cloth could be stamped with gold very beautifully. Lord Byron's works (the edition in 17 volumes) were the first books to which gold-lettering on cloth was applied. Cloth-work is now done with full gilt sides and back and gilt edges; but, from the temporary character of this style, the question may arise whether it is not a useless expenditure of time and money to produce it. But, so long as the public remain unacquainted with its want of capability for use, and desire a mass of gold upon the sides,--so long, in fact, as there is a large class who desire books for mere show and not for use,--it will be the interest of publishers to gratify them by furnishing cloth-gilt work.

Expedition being so important in cloth-work, a machine has been introduced to facilitate the operation of sawing the backs, and it is now in general use for the purpose. The appended cut gives an accurate idea of the machine as manufactured by W. O. Hickok, Harrisburg, Pa.

For this and all other species of case-work (morocco is sometimes done in this manner) the lining-papers are inserted and pasted over so as to adhere to the end-paper, and the slips, having been cut short, are scraped or rubbed smooth. The volumes are then knocked up and touched on the back in one or two places with the glue-brush. They are then cut upon the fore-edge, by being placed between two boards, one of which is precisely the width that it is intended to cut the volumes; the boards and books are placed upon the laying-press, and the backs knocked evenly up; the whole is then placed in the laying-press, and cut with the plough. The back-board being wider than the front, the knife cuts against it. If the volumes are small, a number may be cut at the same time. This mode of cutting is called "steamboating." After the whole lot that the workman "has on" have been cut on the fronts, they are then placed between cutting-boards again, of the proper size, and knocked up on the head; they are then laid upon the press, with the runner or front-board up; the board is then moved about a quarter of an inch below the heads of the volumes as they are arranged in layers or piles. The workman will then grasp the boards firmly, so as not to allow the books to slip, and place them in the cutting-press, and, after screwing it up tightly with the press-pin, proceed to cut the heads in the same manner as the fronts. After this is done, unscrew the press partially, so as to allow the volumes to be turned without slipping in the tub; then, with one hand beneath the press, depress one end of the boards, while the other is elevated, until the whole is turned completely over, with the tails upward. The runner is adjusted even with the cheek of the press, the press is screwed up, and the volumes cut at the tail. If the edges are to be gilt, they are now prepared for that operation. Afterwards they are glued upon the backs and rounded, care being taken not to start the sheets or mark the gilding upon the fore-edge with the thumb. They are then backed in the same manner as bound books, except that they have larger joints. Care is requisite at the ends, or the blows of the hammer will crush the paper and thus give the gilding an unsightly appearance at the joints.

A machine has been invented for the purpose of backing books, and it appears to be growing in favour for cloth-work, and, in fact, for all work where expedition is a primary essential. It is the invention of Mr. Sanborn, of Portland, Maine. The annexed cut gives an idea of the general appearance of the machine.

The next process is lining the backs, which is done by pasting strips of paper or muslin upon the back, having it of sufficient width to cover the joints on each side. The volumes are then prepared for the cases, which have been previously got ready. The boards are cut to a uniform square size by the table-shears. The cloth covers, after having been cut out, have the corners cut off to a pattern made for the purpose, just sufficient to allow them to lap when the cloth is turned over the edge of the boards. The cover is then glued equally over, and the T square laid upon it,--the square having been made of the proper width to allow for the back, joints, and groove of the volume. A board is then laid on each side of the centre of the square; the latter is then lifted off, and a strip of paper, of the length of the boards and nearly the width of the back of the book, placed between the boards. The cloth projecting beyond the boards is then turned over their edges. The cover is then turned over, and the cloth rubbed smooth on the sides by means of a woollen or cotton pad. It is then placed between pasteboards to dry. After the cases are all made and have become perfectly dry, they are ready for stamping. Cloth for ordinary stamping requires no preparation, but if the stamp be large or very heavy it will be safer to use a coat of size. For this purpose Russian isinglass is preferable; fresh glaire will answer the same purpose. After the cases are stamped, the volumes being ready, they are arranged with their heads the same way, and the end-paper of the volume is pasted equally over. The book is then laid, pasted side downwards, upon a case, adjusting the squares properly at the same time; the other end-paper is then pasted, and the other board or side of the case drawn over the back and placed upon the volume. After a number are pasted, they are placed in pressing-boards having a brass band affixed to the edges of the boards. The band, being rather wider than the thickness of the board, causes a slight projection. The volumes are adjusted in the pressing-boards in such a manner as to cause the back and joint of the volumes to be on the outer, while the pasteboard is on the inner, side of the brass rim. In this position the volumes are placed in the standing-press and screwed tightly down; they are then tapped lightly at the heads with a small backing-hammer, and allowed to remain until dry. They are then taken out, and the end-papers opened up or separated with a folding-stick. They are then ready for the bookseller's shelves.

TABLE-SHEARS.]