Chapter XXIII (2)

“The boot and shoe trade of the United States is of a very extensive character, and the systematic manner in which it is carried on worthy of being understood and adopted elsewhere. A scale or series of sizes is adopted, say in women’s and children’s shoes from one to six, and even higher numbers, the half constituting a size between each. The various portions of the boots and shoes are cut out to these sizes and half-sizes. These are put up with all the requisite trimmings necessary to complete the articles, in sets of 60 pairs for the common kinds, and 24 pairs for the finer qualities.

“Being cut out and made up into sets, they are sent to be ‘fitted’ for the maker—that is, the various parts of the upper leathers are stitched together. Much of this is now done by one of the various kinds of sewing machines. The neatness, accuracy and strength of stitch is superior to hand work. The upper leathers thus ‘fitted’ are then sent to the ‘binder,’ who finally prepares them for the ‘maker,’ by whom they are soled and heeled. Being complete in make they then go to the ‘trimmer,’ whose work consists in punching the string-holes, stringing and putting on buttons, and in ladies’ shoes, bows and rosettes.

“Soles are cut out by machinery. A knife with a curvilinear edge is set in a frame and worked with a treadle, after the manner of a lathe. By a lateral motion in the machine, it can be adapted to the cutting of any requisite width of sole, and being once fixed to a given width, the process of cutting is very rapid, and material is saved by the leather being cut at right angles to the surface, instead of diagonally, as by the ordinary knife.

“When finished, the goods are made up in boxes containing one dozen of assorted sizes. They are then sent in cases to the wholesale dealer, who supplies the retailer. A case contains five boxes making up the 60 pairs of assorted sizes of which a set of the commoner kind consists as manufactured. These manufactures are found in all parts of the New England states, but chiefly in the states of Massachusetts, Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire. The finer quality of hoots for gentlemen are chiefly made at Randolph and Abington, Massachusetts; the heavier kind of shoes, and the coarsest kind, usually called ‘brogans,’ at Danvers in the same state. These ‘brogans’ are chiefly manufactured for the Southern markets, for the use of slaves, and are similar to the shoes worn by the miners of South Staffordshire.

“The following table, compiled from the ‘Statistics of the Condition and Products of certain branches of industry in Massachusetts for the year ending April 1st, 1845,’ will show the extent of the boot and shoe trade in the six above-named towns at that date:—

┌─────────┬──────┬──────────┬──────────┬──────────┐
│ Towns. │Kinds.│Number of │ │ │
│ │ │ Pairs │ Males │ Females │
│ │ │ made. │employed. │employed. │
├─────────┼──────┼──────────┼──────────┼──────────┤
│Randolph │{Boots│ 227,131 }│ │ │
│ │{Shoes│ 332,281 }│ 815│ 649│
│Danvers │Both │ 1,150,300│ 1,586│ 980│
│Lynn │{Boots│ 2,000 }│ │ │
│ │{Shoes│ 2,404,722│ │ │
│ │ │ }│ 2,719│ 3,209│
│Reading │Shoes │ 274,000│ 358│ 385│
│Woburn │{Boots│ 909 }│ │ │
│ │{Shoes│ 350,920 }│ 425│ 484│
│Haverhill│Shoes │ 1,860,915│ 2,042│ 1,680│
└─────────┴──────┴──────────┴──────────┴──────────┘

“Pennsylvania is the largest iron-producing state in the Union, although by the census of 1850, twenty-one states are returned as producing pig iron, and only two, Florida and Arkansas, as not having establishments for the manufacture of iron castings; whilst in nineteen states wrought iron is made.

“In the production of pig iron 377 establishments were in operation in 1850; and of these 180 were in Pennsylvania, 35 in Ohio, and 29 in Virginia.

“The capital invested amounted to 17,346,425 dollars (about £4,500,000 sterling), the produce being 564,755 tons per annum, employing 20,291 males and 150 females.

“In the manufacture of iron castings, 1,391 establishments were engaged. Of these 643 were in the states of New York and Pennsylvania,—323 in the former and 330 in the latter; 183 others being in the state of Ohio. The capital invested amounted to 17,416,361 dollars, being about the same as in pig iron. 322,745 tons of castings are produced per annum, giving employment to 23,541 males and 48 females; the value of the castings, and other products, being estimated at about £6,250,000 sterling.

“Wrought iron is manufactured at 422 establishments in 19 states. Pennsylvania has 131, New York 60, New Jersey 53, Tennessee 42, and Virginia 39; the remaining 97 being situated in 14 other states. The capital invested was 14,495,220 dollars, or about £3,500,000 sterling; 13,178 males and 79 females being employed. The quantity manufactured amounted to 278,044 tons, the value of which, with other products, was 16,747,074 dollars, or about £4,100,000 sterling.

“In nearly all the large cities, iron foundries are to be found, cast-iron being largely employed in the construction of buildings both of wood and brick; and in Philadelphia, as also to some extent in other cities, whole elevations of houses, used as retail shops in the principal streets, are of cast-iron. In these cases, the construction of the building is usually modified to suit the material of the front, and, in some instances, an approximation is made towards adapting the decorative part of the elevation to the material and the construction. In general, however, the ordinary forms, as used in stone and wood, are followed, and the whole painted and sanded in imitation of Connecticut red sandstone. The construction of some of these elevations is at once simple and effective, alike for strength as architectural effect, and there appears to be very little difficulty in taking out an old front and substituting a new one, as the whole is well braced together by ties and screws—the side walls sustaining the structure in all essential points. This use of cast-iron may eventually produce a style of street architecture of a different character to that which now prevails, and which is in imitation of European modes of construction and decoration.”

We have merely given above the slightest idea of the vast industrial operations of the United States, which embrace every branch of arts and manufactures; but that little is enough to show how great are their resources, and what an immense field is opened to their enterprise, to their skill and inventive genius.

As we have already said, education is one feature of the American national character, and art-education, as applied to manufactures, is now beginning necessarily to attract serious attention in the United States. Hence schools of design have been established in Philadelphia, New York, Boston, Baltimore and other cities; most of these being, however, intended for the art-education of women.

From art-education, which can only be available for a portion of the public, we pass to that which is made indispensable by the wise legislation of the United States.

“The compulsory educational clauses adopted in the laws of most of the states, and especially those of New England, by which some three months of every year must be spent at school by the young factory operative under fourteen or fifteen years of age, secure every child from the cupidity of the parent, or the neglect of the manufacturer; since to profit by the child’s labour during _three-fourths_ of the year, he or she must be regularly in attendance in some public or private school conducted by some authorised teacher during the other fourth.

“This lays the foundation for that wide-spread intelligence which prevails amongst the factory operatives of the United States; and though at first sight the manufacturer may appear to be restricted in the free use of the labour offered to him, the system re-acts to the permanent advantage of both employer and employed.

“The skill of hand which comes of experience is, notwithstanding present defects, rapidly following the perceptive power so keenly awakened by early intellectual training. Quickly learning from the skilful European artizans thrown amongst them by emigration, or imported as instructors, with minds, as already stated, prepared by sound practical education, the Americans have laid the foundation of a wide-spread system of manufacturing operations, the influence of which cannot be calculated upon, and are daily improving upon the lessons obtained from their older and more experienced compeers of Europe.

“Commercially, advantages of no ordinary kind are presented to the manufacturing states of the American Union. The immense development of its resources in the west, the demands of a population increasing daily by emigration from Europe, as also by the results of a healthy natural process of inter-emigration, which tends to spread over an enlarged surface the population of the Atlantic States; the facilities of communication by lakes, rivers, and railways; and the cultivation of European tastes and consequently of European wants; all tend to the encouragement of those arts and manufactures which it is the interest of the citizens of the older states to cultivate, and in which they have so far succeeded that their markets may be said to be secured to them as much as manufacturers, as they have hitherto been, and will doubtless continue to be, as merchants. For whether the supply is derived from the home or foreign manufacturer, the demand cannot fail to be greater than the industry of both can supply. This once fairly recognised, those jealousies which have ever tended to retard the progress of nations in the peaceful arts, will be no longer suffered to interfere, by taking the form of restrictions on commerce and the free intercourse of peoples.”

THE END.

-----

Footnote 1:

Hildreth.

Footnote 2:

Hildreth.

Footnote 3:

Bancroft.

Footnote 4:

Bancroft.

Footnote 5:

Hildreth.

Footnote 6:

Ibid.

Footnote 7:

Hildreth.

Footnote 8:

Bancroft.

Footnote 9:

Hildreth.

Footnote 10:

Hildreth.

Footnote 11:

Hildreth.

Footnote 12:

Willson.

Footnote 13:

Willson.

Footnote 14:

Hildreth.

Footnote 15:

Hildreth.

Footnote 16:

Hildreth.

Footnote 17:

Hildreth.

Footnote 18:

Hildreth.

Footnote 19:

Hildreth.

Footnote 20:

Hildreth.

Footnote 21:

Willard.

Footnote 22:

Hildreth.

Footnote 23:

Hildreth.

Footnote 24:

Hildreth.

Footnote 25:

Annual Register, 1779.

Footnote 26:

Annual Register, 1779.

Footnote 27:

Hildreth.

Footnote 28:

Knight’s “Pictorial History of England.”

Footnote 29:

Willard.

Footnote 30:

Hildreth.

Footnote 31:

Annual Register.

Footnote 32:

Hildreth.

Footnote 33:

Hildreth.

Footnote 34:

Hildreth.

Footnote 35:

Hildreth.

Footnote 36:

Annual Register, 1781.

Footnote 37:

Hildreth and Marcius Willson.

Footnote 38:

Mrs. Willard.

Footnote 39:

Hildreth.

Footnote 40:

Hildreth.

Footnote 41:

Annual Register and Hildreth.

Footnote 42:

Hildreth.

Footnote 43:

Annual Register.

Footnote 44:

Hildreth.

Footnote 45:

Hildreth.

Footnote 46:

Annual Register.

Footnote 47:

Annual Register.

Footnote 48:

Annual Register.

Footnote 49:

Hildreth.

Footnote 50:

Willson.

Footnote 51:

Wraxall’s Memoirs.

Footnote 52:

Knight’s “Pictorial History of England.”

Footnote 53:

Knight’s “Pictorial History of England.”

Footnote 54:

Hildreth

Footnote 55:

Hildreth.

Footnote 56:

Hildreth.

Footnote 57:

Hildreth.

Footnote 58:

Hildreth.

Footnote 59:

Hildreth.

Footnote 60:

Hildreth.

Footnote 61:

Hildreth.

Footnote 62:

Hildreth.

Footnote 63:

That is to say, slaves.

Footnote 64:

Hildreth.

Footnote 65:

Jared Sparkes.

Footnote 66:

There are very few national American ballads: so few, indeed, that
whenever an historical event has become a portion of popular
literature, we may be sure that it took an unusually strong hold on
the popular mind, and as having done so it is additionally worthy of
the historian’s notice. The Ballad SAINCLAIRE’S DEFEAT is a sort of
“Chevy Chase” of the Western Territory, and abounds with deep pathos:—

’Twas November the fourth, in the year of ninety-one,
We had a sore engagement, near to Fort Jefferson;
Sainclaire was our commander, which may remembered be,
For there we left nine hundred men, in t’West’n Ter’tory.

At Bunker’s Hill and Quebeck, where many a hero fell,
Likewise at Long Island—it is the truth I tell,—
But such a dreadful carnage, may I never see again,
As happened at St. Mary’s, upon the river plain.

Our army was attacked, just as the day did dawn,
And soon was overpowered and driven from the lawn,
They killed Major Ouldham, Levin, and Briggs likewise,
And horrid yells of sav’ges, resounded through the skies.

Major Butler, he was wounded by the very second fire;
His manly bosom swelled with rage, when forced to retire;
And as he lay in anguish, and scarcely could he see,
Exclaimed, “Ye hounds of hell! Oh! revenged will I be.”

We had not been long broken, when General Butler found,
Himself so badly wounded, was forced to quit the ground.
“My God!” says he, “what shall we do? we’re wounded every man;
Go charge them, valiant heroes, and beat them if you can.”

He leaned his back against a tree, and there resigned his breath,
And like a valiant soldier, sank in the arms of death,
When blessed angels did await, his spirit to convey,
And unto the celestial fields he quickly bent his way.

We charged again with courage firm, but soon again gave ground,
The war-whoop then redoubled, as foes did us surround;
They killed good Major Ferguson, which caused his men to cry,
“Our only safety is in flight, or fighting here we die!”

“Stand to your guns,” says valiant Ford, “let’s die upon them here,
Before we let the sav’ges know, we ever harboured fear!”
Our cannon-balls exhausted, and artill’ry men all slain,
Obliged were our musket-men, the en’my to sustain.

Yet three hours more we fought them, and then were forced to yield,
Three hundred bloody warriors lay stretched upon the field.
Says Colonel Gibson to his men, “My boys, be not dismayed,
I am sure that true Virginians were never yet afraid;

“Ten thousand deaths I’d rather die, than they should gain the field;”
With that he got a fatal shot, which caused him to yield.
Says Major Clarke, “My heroes, I can no longer stand;
We’ll try to form in order, and retreat the best we can.”

The word “retreat” being passed around, there was a dismal cry,
Then helter-skelter through the woods, like wolves and sheep they fly.
This well-appointed army, which but the day before,
Defied and braved all danger, had like a cloud passed o’er.

Alas! the dying and wounded, how dreadful was the thought,
To the tomahawk and scalping knife, in misery are brought.
Some had an arm and some a thigh broke on the field that day,
Who writhed in torments at the stake, to close the dire affray.

To mention our brave officers is what I wish to do;
No sons of Mars e’er fought more brave, or with more courage true.
To Captain Bradford I belonged, in his artillery;
He fell that day among the slain, and a valiant man was he.

Footnote 67:

Willson.

Footnote 68:

Hildreth.

Footnote 69:

Hildreth.

Footnote 70:

Tucker’s “Life of Jefferson.”

Footnote 71:

Life of Jefferson.

Footnote 72:

Life of Jefferson.

Footnote 73:

Life of Jefferson.

Footnote 74:

Ibid.

Footnote 75:

Willson.

Footnote 76:

Willson.

Footnote 77:

Knight’s Pictorial History.

Footnote 78:

Willson.

Footnote 79:

“Letters on Freemasonry,” by J. Q. Adams.

Footnote 80:

Willson.

Footnote 81:

Miss Bremer’s “Homes of the New World.”

Footnote 82:

Mrs. Willard.

Footnote 83:

R. H. Mason.

Footnote 84:

Goodrich’s United States.

Footnote 85:

Goodrich’s United States.

Footnote 86:

Miss Bremer’s “Homes of the New World.”

------------------------------------------------------------------------

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THE OLD REGIME

AND

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BY

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BY

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A HISTORY OF GREECE,
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To trace the history of the formation of the Constitution, and explain the circumstances of the time and country out of which its various provisions grew, is a task worthy of the highest talent. To have performed that task in a satisfactory manner is an achievement with which an honorable ambition may well be gratified. We can honestly say that in our opinion Mr. Curtis has fairly won this distinction.—_N. Y. Courier and Enquirer._

We have seen no history which surpasses it in the essential qualities of a standard work destined to hold a permanent place in the impartial judgment of future generations.—_Boston Traveler._

Should the second volume sustain the character of the first, we hazard nothing in claiming for the entire publication the character of a standard work. It will furnish the only sure guide to the interpretation of the Constitution, by unfolding historically the wants it was intended to supply, and the evils which it was intended to remedy.—_Boston Daily Advertiser._

This volume is an important contribution to our constitutional and historical literature. * * * Every true friend of the Constitution will gladly welcome it. The author has presented a narrative clear and interesting. It evinces careful research, skillful handling of material, lucid statement, and a desire to write in a tone and manner worthy of the great theme.—_Boston Post._

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Works by Thomas Carlyle.

History of Friedrich the Second,

called Frederic the Great. 4 vols. 12mo, Muslin, $1 25 each. Vols. I.
and II., with Portraits and Maps, just ready.

The French Revolution.

A History. Newly Revised by the Author, with Index, &c. 2 vols. 12mo,
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Including the Supplement to the First Edition. With Elucidations and
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Past and Present.

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HARPER & BROTHERS will send either of the following Works by Mail, postage paid (for any distance in the United States under 3000 miles), on receipt of the Money.

DICKENS AND BONNER’S

CHILD’S HISTORIES.

BOOKS FOR THE FIRESIDE, THE SCHOOL-ROOM, AND THE FAMILY AND SCHOOL
LIBRARY. COMPRISING

=A Child’s History of England.= By CHARLES DICKENS. 2 vols. 16mo, Muslin, 60 cents.

=A Child’s History of the United States.= By JOHN BONNER. Illustrated. 2 vols. 16mo, Muslin, $1 00.

=A Child’s History of Rome.= By JOHN BONNER. Illustrated. 2 vols. 16mo, Muslin, $1 00.

=A Child’s History of Greece.= By JOHN BONNER. Illustrated. 2 vols. 16mo, Muslin, $1 00.

These works present the leading facts of history in the form of
stories, which children will read for the pleasure they afford. The
histories of Rome and Greece are written from an American point of
view.

Capital little volumes. Though written in a simple and artless style
to captivate juvenile students of history, they are not devoid of a
philosophical spirit to prompt reflection.—_Christian Register._

For writings intended for juvenile readers Mr. Bonner’s style is a
model—sweet, flowing, animated, with a liberal use of colloquial
expressions.—_N. Y. Tribune._

Good books for the school and family library.—_N. Y. Observer._

History presented in such a shape as to possess all the charms of a
romance.—_New Orleans Crescent._

Bonner’s Child’s History of Rome is the best in the market for young
readers.—_Church Journal._

A remarkably successful effort at adapting a historical narrative to
the tastes of youthful readers.—_Presbyterian._

Mr. Bonner writes with freedom and force, avoiding verbosity and
pedantry, and a child of five or a man of seventy can alike understand
his meaning.—_N. Y. Daily Times._

Written with simplicity, and in a manner to engage the attention of
youthful readers.—_N. Y. Evening Post._

We welcome these volumes with most sincere pleasure. They have a
permanent value, and are fitting companions for that beautiful Child’s
History of England, by Dickens.—_St. Louis Republican._

The press can not teem with too many just such books.—_Savannah
Georgian._

Mr. Bonner excels as a historian for the young. His simple, vigorous
style, absence of profound reflections, and power of condensing, by
grasping the prominent points and leaving out minor incidents,
admirably fit him for a task like the present.—_Boston Journal._

Published by HARPER & BROTHERS,
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TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES

1. Silently corrected obvious typographical errors and variations in spelling. 2. Retained archaic, non-standard, and uncertain spellings as printed. 3. Enclosed italics font in _underscores_. 4. Enclosed bold font in =equals=.