Chapter I: Preface

To those accustomed only to the comforts of civilized life, or to the traveller who is indifferent to the beauties of scenery, the monotony, silence, and loneliness of the vast forests of Assam, will present few features of attraction; but as the country offers a wide field of discovery, and so many interesting enquiries remain to be prosecuted in regard to the numerous wild tribes by which it is inhabited, it is hoped that the present brief outline of the condition of the people will not prove altogether uninteresting.

The chief object of the following pages is to make Assam better known, to remove some prejudices which exist against it, and preserve the memory of many remarkable scenes. The narrative of the principal events has been compiled from official documents, with the knowledge of Government; but the Author has expressed his own unbiassed opinions on many interesting subjects with which he became acquainted during a residence of some years in the Province. Much more might have been described, but the few authenticated facts now put forth will probably suffice, from their novelty and interest, to amuse the reader until greater leisure and further experience enable the Author to present a more comprehensive work.

TO

MY FATHER,

WHOSE EARLY TUITION, URBANITY, LEARNING, AND EXAMPLE, ENCOURAGED ME
AT THE COMMENCEMENT OF LIFE TO RELY ON MY OWN EXERTIONS,

THESE WANDERINGS AND REFLECTIONS IN A WILD, UNCIVILIZED, FOREIGN LAND,

Are Dedicated

WITH THE GREATEST VENERATION,

BY HIS

AFFECTIONATE SON.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Garrow warrior to face Title.
Map of Assam to face page 1
View of Gowahatty 5
Omanund Island 6
Queen silkworm, &c. 14
Vampire, or fox bat, &c. 18
Leaf insects 19
Assamese plough 26
Buffalo heads to face page 27
Buffalo shooting 28
Assamese harrow 37
Singphoo bow and arrows, and helmet to face page 59
Abor cane helmets 112
Mishmee dog-skin caps 117
Assamese gentleman, and Meree woman to face page 134
Nagas 149
Angamee Naga warrior 159
Naga mode of disposing of the dead 163
Booteah servant 189
Booteah Rajahs 195
Kuppah Choor Akhas 207
Dufflahs 213

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Appointed second in command of the Assam Light Infantry--Journey
to Assam, Goalparah, and Gowahatty--Trip to Seebsaugur in a
canoe--Boats and dangers--Seebsaugur and Saikwah described--The
tribes--An Assam cottage--Unwelcome intruder--Climate of Assam
page 1

CHAPTER II.

Travels and residence in North-Western Assam--Description
of Burpetah in the rains--Vampire, or fox bats--Leaf
insect--Seclusion of villages in the jungles--Country
abounds with wild animals--Number of deaths, and damage done
to crops--Native mode of killing a tiger--Conflagrations of
jungles--Danger therefrom to travellers--Cultivation of high and
low lands--Number of crops--Primitive mode of husbandry--Irrigation
by cacharies--Country inundated--Population and condition of the
people--Law on slavery 16