Chapter I: Front Matter

A

STEAM VOYAGE

DOWN

THE DANUBE.

WITH SKETCHES OF
HUNGARY, WALLACHIA, SERVIA, AND
TURKEY, &c.

BY MICHAEL J. QUIN,
AUTHOR OF “A VISIT TO SPAIN.”

SECOND EDITION.
REVISED AND CORRECTED.

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.

LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET.

1835.

_Printed by C. Hullmandel._

TOWING BOATS ON THE DANUBE.

_London, Richard Bentley, New Burlington Street, 1835._]

COX AND SONS, 75, GREAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN’S-INN FIELDS.

CONTENTS TO VOL. II.

CHAPTER I.
PAGE
Therapia--Caiques--Precautions--Old England--Ambassador’s
residence--Lord Ponsonby--Mr. Urquhart--Diplomatic profession--
British interests--News dispatches--Dragomanship--Storm--
Sources of Plague--Proposed improvements--Russian designs--The
Dardanelles--Ibrahim Pacha 1

CHAPTER II.

Treaty of Unkiar Skelessi--Its substance--Third Article--
Remaining patent articles--Audiences of the Sultan--Count
Orloff--Secret article--Its effect--Law of the Dardanelles--
Outrage on international law--Treaty of Petersburg--Boundaries--
The provinces--Firman--Russian ascendancy 22

CHAPTER III.

Dictation--Signal of war--Civilization--Barbarism--Russian
Court--Turkish civilization--Duties of England--Extent of her
empire--Africa--Asia--India--Australia--English influence--
Northern powers--Free institutions--Turkish aspirations--
Commercial views--Mediterranean trade--Steam-boats--Dardanelles--
Nullification--Government measures--Nesselrode’s answer--Russian
magnanimity--Treaty of 1809--Strait of the Euxine--Russian
advantages--Key of Turkey 40

CHAPTER IV.

Measures suggested--Turkish regeneration--Decline of Fanaticism--
Equality of civil rights--The Ottoman Moniteur--Publicity--
Judicial institutions--Pressure from without--Payment of
indemnity--War--Resistance--Naval armament--Protection 65

CHAPTER V.

St. Sophia--Armenian religion--Mustapha--Departure from
Constantinople--The Hellespont--Change of climate--Tomb of
Patroclus--Greek quadrille--Throwing the ball--Vintage
dance--Greek seas--Sirocco--Mytilene--Pocket winds--Gulph of
Smyrna--City of Smyrna--Madame Maracinis--“Of course”--Hinde
Cutter 79

CHAPTER VI.

Voyage to Vourla--The British fleet--The _Portland_--Captain
Price--My hammock--Bocca Silota--Cape Colonna--Greece enslaved--
Greece free--Greek climate--Reign of mind--Thracian poetry--The
great Heaven--Olympus--The gods--Fatalism--Death--Predictions--
Inspiration--Tokens of woe--Immortality--Superstitions--Homer--
Christianity 100

CHAPTER VII.

Gun-room--Mountains of Morea--Minister of the Interior--
Quarantine--Deck companions--Holystone--Mr. Dawkins--Russian
policy--Captain Lyons--Hospitality--Bay of Napoli--Bustle of
the streets--Public walks--Count Armansperg--Modern Greeks--
Their advantages--Democracy--Aristocracy--The Senate--The
Laws--The Sovereign--Judicial office 126

CHAPTER VIII.

Administration of justice--Popular assemblies--Free
constitution--Bavarian code--Reforms--Agriculture--
Aristocracy--Argos--King Otho--Russian intrigues--Greek
church--Synod--Russian church--Religious feeling--New coinage 150

CHAPTER IX.

Travelling in Greece--Hieron--Mysterious companion--Dangers of
the glen--Speculations--Inclination to Brigandage--Alarm--A
virtuoso--Epidaurus--Greek servant--Fresh arrivals--On the
look-out--Mosaics--A sail--Ruins--Arcadian scene--Pastoral
happiness--Diorama--Household operations--Banquet hall--Domestic
industry--Benevolence--Marriage preparations--Scene at the
cisterns 166

CHAPTER X.

Bargaining--Departure for Athens--Voyage--The Piræus--Athens--
Vandalism--The Parthenon--Its entablatures--Mysterious fire--
Curiosities--Athenian improvements--Road to Corinth--Megara--
Thunder storm--Isthmus of Corinth--Cutting the isthmus--
Difficulties of the enterprize--Levels of the seas--Corinth--
Change of climate--Vostizza 190

CHAPTER XI.

Great plane tree--Natural curiosity--Road to Patras--Police--
Travelling companions--Motives of travel--Differences of
opinion--Discussions--Settlement of accounts--Patras--Delay--
The Europa--A Caffiné--Parnassus--Storm--Greek marriage--
Luxurious dog--Temple of Ceres--Bay of Patras--Ants 214

CHAPTER XII.

Austrian Packet--Living on-board--Ionian Isles--Corfu--Situation
of Corfu--A day late--Complaints--Commerce--Monopoly--
Improvements--Lord Nugent--Garrison Library--Newspapers--A
character--A mission--Voyage--Atmospheric delusion--Ragusa--
Contrary winds--Water-spout 236

CHAPTER XIII.

The deacon--A lost shirt--Grossa island--The Quarnero--
Pola-Istrian coast--Trieste--Venetian Steamer--Venice--Russian
artist--Il Fanatico--Rome--St. Peter’s--High mass--Don Miguel--
Congregation--Roman monarchy--Gregory XVI.--The Vatican hill--
Gardens of Nero--The Elevation--Christian triumph 258

CHAPTER XIV.

Papal revenues--Public opinion--Discontents--Cold of Rome--St.
John Lateran--St. Peter’s--St. Peter’s chair--Windows--Cardinal
Weld--English diplomacy--Neapolitan Constitution--Austrian
ascendancy--British minister at Rome--The Sistine chapel--
Spanish Monk--Vespers--the Roman hills 284

CHAPTER XV.

Naples--A pious piper--The chestnut man--The segretario--The
money changer--The small commission--The fish-broiler--The
porters--Maccaroni--The Toledo--Lotteries--The Sicilians--
Neapolitan reforms--Resistance--The Museum--Return home--
Expenses of my journey 304