Chapter I: Front Matter

A TOUR THROUGH SOUTH AMERICA

A TOUR THROUGH
SOUTH AMERICA

:: BY A. S. FORREST ::

WITH 145 ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR

LONDON: STANLEY PAUL & CO.
31 ESSEX STREET, STRAND, W.C.

_First published in 1913_

THIS BOOK IS BY KIND PERMISSION
DEDICATED TO
SIR OWEN PHILIPPS, K.C.M.G.
TO WHOSE NAME NO TRAVELLER TO SOUTH AMERICA
NEEDS INTRODUCTION
THE AUTHOR FEELS THAT THIS SLIGHT TRIBUTE
IS DUE TO ONE WHO HAS DONE AND IS
STILL DOING MUCH TO LINK UP
THE OLD WORLD WITH THE VAST TERRITORIES
DEALT WITH IN THE ENSUING PAGES

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. EARLY ADVENTURERS AND DISCOVERIES 17

II. THE SIGHTING OF THE PACIFIC 26

III. THE BUCCANEERS 34

IV. ON THE WAY TO THE SOUTHERN CONTINENT 48

V. OF THE LABOURERS ON THE ISTHMUS 60

VI. CANAL PROJECTS: OLD AND NEW 72

VII. PANAMA 97

VIII. THE PANAMANIANS 104

IX. COLOMBIA AND CARTAGENA 117

X. ECUADOR 127

XI. “THE CITY OF THE KINGS” 131

XII. PERU--“THE COUNTRY OF MARVELS” 138

XIII. “THE GATEWAY TO AN IMPRISONED LAND” 149

XIV. “THE LAND OF NITRATES” 157

XV. ARGENTINA 167

XVI. THE CAMP 180

XVII. A LIVE INDUSTRY 197

XVIII. ON THE ROAD TO PARAGUAY 208

XIX. ASUNCION 226

XX. A SOUTH AMERICAN DICTATOR 240

XXI. MORE MODERN TIMES IN PARAGUAY 244

XXII. A GLANCE AT BRAZILIAN HISTORY 249

XXIII. “A CITY OF PARADISE” 263

XXIV. VIANNA 278

XXV. SOME EXCURSIONS FROM RIO 286

XXVI. SÃO PAULO 299

XXVII. A SOURCE OF LIGHT AND POWER 319

XXVIII. COFFEE 327

XXIX. THE FOREST 338

INDEX 351

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Cartagena _Frontispiece_

PAGE

An Old Map of the Isthmus 16

“Caribs” in Terra Firma 19

Gold Nose Ring 21

Ancient Gold Nose Ring 21

“A Dream in Living Bronze is She.”--A native of the Isthmus of Darien 23

Ancient Indian Pottery found in the Graves on the Isthmus 24

Pottery from the Graves in Chirique 27

The Pacific, from a Peak in Darien 29

Huts near the Ancient City of Panama 31

The Pirate “L’Ollonois” 35

Sir Henry Morgan.--From an old print 37

Fort Lorenzo 39

Old Sentry Tower on the Chagres River 41

The Old Church Tower, Old Panama 46

The Ramparts, Fort Lorenzo 47

Old Wharves, Colon 49

A Family Party, Colon 51

A Camp at Balboa 53

The First Labour Camp, Gatum 56

The Old Church on the Island of Tobago, off Panama 58

A Labour Camp (Evening), Canal Zone 61

A Toilet on the Zone 65

A Street in the Old Quarters, Panama 69

Water-babies by a River-side 70

An Old Church and Buildings, Panama 73

A Stretch of the Chagres River 77

Interior of a Shack on the Isthmus 79

The Old Panama Railway Track 81

Jamaican Labourer on the Zone 84

Barbadian Labourer on the Zone 85

Map of Republic of Panama 89

The Church at Chagres 92

Outside a Church on Christmas Eve, Panama 98

The Flat Arch of St. Dominic 100

Old Houses on the Sea Wall, Panama 102

Panama from Ancon 105

A Bit of the Old Town 108

The Plaza, Panama 110

An Interior, Cartagena 112

In the Market, Panama 116

A Colombian Mother 118

A Colombian Village 122

On the Banks of the Magdalena River 124

Map of Peru and Bolivia 126

A Dwelling by a River-side, Ecuador 129

A Peruvian Girl 133

The Cathedral, Lima 135

A Milkmaid, Lima 136

The Arid Coast of Peru 139

A Llama in Gold, made by the Incas 141

Inca Portraiture on a piece of Old Pottery 143

A Reduced Human Head 145

An Inca Mask in Gold 147

Pre-Inca Monoliths in Bolivia 148

A Fruit-Stall at Mollendo 150

The Jesuit Church on the Site of the Inca “Temple of the Sun” 152

A Bolivian Woman 153

Sailing on Lake Titicaca 154

Balsas on Lake Titicaca 155

A Chilian Farmer 158

An Araucanian Family 159

An Araucanian Indian 161

Araucanian Girls 163

On the Guano Deposits 165

Map of Argentine 169

The Lemon-shaped Dome of the Capital 171

Desolation 173

Landscape near Mendoza 175

The Bridge of the Inca 176

Crossing the Hills 177

A Glimpse of Aconcagua 178

Travellers by a River-side 179

Chasing Rheas 181

A “Pulperia” 184

Morning: Going to Work 186

Evening 187

Pegging out Hides 189

An “Estancia” 191

Gaucho Preparing a Meal 193

A Gaucho 195

The Lonely Camp 196

A Prize Hereford Bull 199

Colon 201

The Village of Frey Bentos 204

On the Parana 208

Frey Bentos 209

A Paraguayan Lady 211

Shepherds and Cowboys, Corrientes 215

Igeasu Falls on the Alto Parana 217

Old Houses in Corrientes 218

A “Posada,” Corrientes 219

Sharp’s Map of South America 221

Travellers on the Steamer 223

The Custom-house, Asuncion 227

The Dome of the Oratoire de Lopez 230

A Street in Asuncion 233

Paraguayan Savages 235

Crossing the Paraguay 238

A Paraguayan Gentleman 245

Map of Brazil 250

Beauties at Pernambuco 252

Near Rio 253

The Railway up to Corcovada 256

Coming down from Corcovada 257

The Church of the Candeliera, Rio 259

The Falls of Tombos in the State of Rio 262

Entrance to Rio Harbour 264

The Summit of Corcovada, Rio 266

“The Silent Bay” 267

A Suburban Street, Rio 269

Avenida Beira-Mar, Rio 271

The Sugar-Loaf by Night, Rio 273

A Bit of Rio Harbour 274

The Gavea, Rio 275

The Botanical Gardens 277

End of Santa Cruz 279

An Old Church near Rio 280

The Shore, Santa Cruz 281

Santa Cruz 282

Santa Cruz 283

Santa Cruz 285

At the Back of the Organ Mountains 287

A Road amongst the Hills, Petropolis 288

The Square of Tiradentes, Ouro Preto 289

Near the San Francisco River 290

Above the Falls at Tombos.--The Carangola River about 4300 miles from Rio 291

Waterfall near Matilde, on the Line to Victoria Espirito Santo 292

The Rapids at Pirapora, on San Francisco River 293

Old Houses, Bahia 294

The Baras de Aquino.--The curious winding track of the Leopoldina Railway 296

The Railway over the Confluence of the Paquequr and Parahyba Rivers 297

The Road to São Paulo from Rio 301

The Approach to Santos 303

Government Buildings in the Largo de Palacio 305

The National Museum at Ypiranga 307

The Theatre of S. Paulo 309

The Penteado Technical College 311

The Villa Penteado 312

Officers of the São Paulo Army 314

A Waterfall near São Paulo 315

The Wharves of Santos 316

The Docks of Santos 317

The Power Station 321

The Falls of Parnahyba 325

A Fazenda 329

A Coffee Fazendiero 331

Colonists’ Houses at Martino Prado 333

The Prado Mansion House, São Paulo 336

Harvey 341

Sebastian 347