Chapter I: Front Matter

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A

YACHT VOYAGE

TO

NORWAY,

DENMARK, AND SWEDEN.

BY

W. A. ROSS, ESQ.

Ver erat: errabam: Zephyrus conspexit: abibam:
Insequitur: fugio.

OVID. _Fast._, Lib. v.

Second Edition.

LONDON:

HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER,

GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.

1849.

LONDON: PRINTED BY T. R. HARRISON, ST. MARTIN'S LANE.

TO

AN AMIABLE AND A GENEROUS FRIEND,

ROBERT, LORD RODNEY,

I DEDICATE THIS VOLUME,

IN TOKEN

OF ADMIRATION, GRATITUDE,

AND

AFFECTION.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Greenwich--The History of the Iris Yacht --Sheerness--Harwich--Under Weigh--The North Sea--Sail in Sight--The Mail Overboard--Speaking the Norwegian 1

CHAPTER II.

Foggy Weather--First View of Norway--Christiansand Fiord --Arrival at Christiansand--Description of the Town--The Toptdal River--Excursion Inland--The Enthusiastic Angler--Rustic Lodgings--Hunting the Bear--The Trap--The Death--Norwegian Liberality 13

CHAPTER III.

Departure from Christiansand--The Pilot's Pram--Skaw Point --Delinquencies of Jacko--Expensive Cannonading--Elsineur --Hamlet's Walk--The Minister, Struensee--Story of Queen Caroline-Matilda--Legend of the Serf 46

CHAPTER IV.

The Pilot--Tempestuous Weather--Distant View of Copenhagen --Lord Nelson--The Battle of the Baltic--The Harbour-Master --Interest excited by the Yacht's Arrival--The Artist--The Angler--We go Ashore 58

CHAPTER V.

Copenhagen--The Cape--The Dilemma--The Guard--Compliment to England--Description of the Harbour and Fortifications-- Delinquent Sailors--The City on Sunday--Negro Commissionaire --A Walk through the City--Notices of the various Public Buildings 74

CHAPTER VI.

The Casino--The Royal Family of Denmark--Succession to Holstein--The English Consul--Visit to the English Ambassador --Colossal Statue of Christian the Fifth--Anecdote of Belzoni --Trinity Church--Extraordinary Feat of Peter the Great --Ducking an Offender--Palace of Christiansborg--The Exchange --The Castle of Rosenberg 91

CHAPTER VII.

Dinner at the Embassy--Manners and Customs of the Danes--The Spanish Ambassador and the English Exile--The Citadel--Story of the Two Captives--Joe Washimtum, again--A Danish Dinner --Visit to the Theatre--Political Reflections--Festivities on Board the Yacht--Merry Party at the American Ambassador's --The Duchies of Schleswig and Holstein 106

CHAPTER VIII.

The Exile's Souvenir--The Disappointed Artist--Departure from Copenhagen--Arrival at Elsineur--Description of the Town--The Castle of Cronenborg--Hamlet's Garden--Esrom Lake--The Legend of Esrom Monastery--The French War-Steamer --Sailing up the Cattegat 140

CHAPTER IX.

Arrival at Falkenborg--The Storm--The Yacht in Danger--Safe Anchorage--Visit to Falkenborg--Ludicrous Adventure--A Drive into the Interior--Great Scarcity experienced by the Inhabitants--Description of the Country--The Disappointed Anglers--Kongsbacka--The Yacht runs aground--Gottenborg 154

CHAPTER X.

The Casino at Gottenborg--Awkward Dilemma--The Watchman and the Northern Star--Swedish Artillery--The Grove--An Old Man's History--The Alarm of Fire--The Carriage overturned--The River Gotha--Washing in the Stream--The Narrow Streets--Description of Gottenborg--Its Decayed Commerce--The Herring Fishery 172

CHAPTER XI.

Return to Norway--Sail up the Gulf--Approach to Christiania --Its Appearance from the Water--Anecdote of Bernadotte-- Description of the City--The Fortress--Charles the XIIth --The Convicts--Story of the Captured Cannon--The Highwayman --Prospect from the Mountains--The Norwegian Peasant Girl 204

CHAPTER XII.

A Drive into the Interior--Extensive and Sublime Prospect --Norwegian Post-Houses--Repair of the Roads--Preparations for Departure 215

CHAPTER XIII.

The Yacht under sail--Jacko overboard--Fredricksvaern--The Union Jack--Scenery on the Larvig River--Transit of Timber --Salmon Fishing--The Defeated Angler--Ludicrous Adventure with an Eagle--Result of the Angling Expedition--The Bevy of Ladies--Norwegian Dinner-Party, Singular and Amusing Customs 240

CHAPTER XIV.

Another Fishing Excursion--Landing a Salmon--The Carriole-- Boats rowed by Ladies--Departure from Larvig--Christiansand Harbour--Return to Boom--Sincere Welcome--Angling at the Falls--The Forsaken Angler--A Misunderstanding--Reconciliation --St. John's Day--Simplicity of Manners 260

CHAPTER XV.

Sailing up the Gron Fiord--Dangerous Swell--Excursion Ashore --Trout-Fishing--Mountain Scenery--Ant-Hills--Hazardous Drive--The Scottish Emigrant--Miserable Lodging--Condition of the Peasantry--A Village Patriarch--Costume of the Country People--Arrival at Faedde 287

CHAPTER XVI.

Return to the Yacht--Poor Jacko--Ascending the Stream-- Description of the Faedde Fiord--Adventures of an Angler--Sail to the Bukke Fiord--The Fathomless Lake--The Maniac, and her History--The Village of Sand--Extraordinary Peculiarities of the Sand Salmon--Seal Hunting--Shooting Gulls--The Seal caught--Night in the North 303

CHAPTER XVII.

The Dangerous Straits--British Seamanship--The Glaciers of Folgefonde--Bergen--Habits of the Fishermen--The Sogne Fiord--Leerdal--Arrival at Auron--A Hospitable Host-- Ascending the Mountains--The Two Shepherdesses--Hunting the Rein-Deer--Adventure on the Mountains--Slaughtering Deer--The Fawn 336

CHAPTER XVIII.

The Sick Sailor--The Storm--The Lee-Shore--"Breakers a-head"--The Yacht in Distress--Weathering the Storm--Return to Bergen--The Physician--The Whirlpool--The Water-Spout --Homeward Bound--Scarborough--Yarmouth Roads--Erith-- Greenwich Hospital--Conclusion 397

ERRATA.

Page 79, line 14, _for_ "Nelson," _read_ "Gambier." 92, omit "to the eye." 100, line 12, _for_ "Nelson's," _read_ "Gambier's." 145, last line, _for_ "Braggesen," _read_ "Baggesen." 165, line 31, _for_ "they had endured," _read_ "each of them had endured." 201, line 9, _read_ "as here at Gottenborg." 239, line 33, _for_ "immovably," _read_ "immoveably." 243, line 6, _for_ "jibbed," _read_ "jibed." 286, line 18, _for_ "everywhere," _read_ "ever where." 327, line 10, _for_ "than me," _read_ "than I." 338, line 31, _for_ "jibbing," _read_ "jibing."

A YACHT VOYAGE TO NORWAY, SWEDEN, & DENMARK.