Chapter II: Part 2

Starting from this notch apply the square, keeping the twelve-inch mark on both sides of the square carefully on the backing line, and marking off the rafter on the outside edges of the square. Repeat this until you have fifteen spaces marked off, then set back from your last mark half the thickness of the ridge-board, and with the square as before mark off the rafter. This will be the exact length and also the plumb-cut to fit the ridge-board. Or if we take the diagonal of 12 by 12, which is 17, and mark off 15 spaces of 17 in., making the necessary allowance for the half thickness of the ridge-board, it will amount to the same thing, every 17 in. on the rafter being nearly equal to one foot on the level.

Should the building measure 30 ft., 9 in. in width—the half of which is 15 ft., 4½ in.—we take the fifteen spaces of 12 by 12 and then the 4½ in. on both sides of the square on the backing line as before. This will give us the extra length required. The same rule will apply to any portion of a foot there may be.

A fence, sometimes called a stair gauge, is manufactured of metal by the Cheney & Tower Company, Athol, Mass., which I show at Fig. 28, and is considered about the best thing of the kind. It consists of a piece of polished angle metal, each side being ⅞ inch wide. One side is slotted to accommodate the heads of the set-screws and to allow the slides to be fastened at the desired points. The gauge is fastened to any square and is useful for laying out stairs, cutting in rafters, cutting bevels or other angles. In marking off stairs with an 8-inch rise and an 11¾-inch tread the gauge would be fastened at 8 inches on one end of the square and 11¾ at the other end. The square would then be laid on the plank with the face of the gauge against its edge and the mark made around the point of the square. This would be repeated until the required number of steps were marked. The gauges are made in two sizes, 18 and 28 inches long. It is stated that mechanics who have used it find it one of the handiest tools in their kits.

Another style of fence is shown at Fig. 29 in conjunction with a slotted square. This, perhaps, is the handiest of all the devices for a fence, but it is expensive, and as constructed requires a square with a slot in each arm, and as a rule workmen do not take kindly to squares with slots in them. A shows the square, B the fence, SS set screws to hold the fence in position, and _ff_ the points of the square.

The application of the square and fence combined for laying out a housed string for stairs is shown at Fig. 30. In this example the fence is a single slotted one, and three screws are employed to hold the square in position. The rise is seven inches and the tread is laid off nine inches on the blade. The square at the foot of the string shows how the latter should be finished to make the floor and the base-board. In case no pitch-board is required, as the square when adjusted with fence, as shown, does the work of the pitch-board.

There are many other applications of the fence in connection with the square that I may have cause to refer to as I proceed, as it is my desire to present in this work everything I can collect regarding the square that I think will be of service to the workman. Doubtless there will be many descriptions and illustrations some of my readers will have met with before, or which they have been acquainted with for a long time. The great bulk of readers, however, will be new hands and unacquainted with the use of the square beyond its simple application as a squaring tool, and what may appear to be a useless rule to the expert or old hand will prove a choice tidbit to the beginner and will whet his appetite for further knowledge on the subject. Indeed this book is prepared more particularly for the younger members of the craft, although a majority of the older workers will find much in it that will interest, amuse and instruct.

It will be seen that the fence or guide used in connection with the square is, after all, a very simple matter, and would, no doubt, suggest itself to any clever workman who was laying off rafters with the square.

BRACE RULES.

It will now be in order to show how the square can be used for getting the lengths and bevels for braces of regular and irregular runs. If we wish to lay out a brace having a three-foot run on both post and beam, the matter is quite simple, for we can take 12 inches on the tongue and 12 inches on the blade and transfer this distance three times on a straight line and we have the extreme length of the brace from point to point, and by marking along the blade at one end of this length and along the tongue at the other end we also get the bevels. This is easy and simple enough, and without further refinement will give the lengths and bevels exactly for a flat-footed brace. When the run is different than the rise, as in the example shown at Fig. 31, the square is applied in a somewhat different manner. Here we have a run of three feet and a rise of four feet. To get the proper length and bevels for a brace to fit in this situation we must use 12 inches on the tongue and 16 inches on the blade, then the bevel of the upper end of the brace will be found along the line of the tongue, and the line of the blade will give the bevel for the foot of the brace. In this case the square is transferred three times, just as though the rise and run were both three feet; the difference being made by dividing the odd foot into three equal parts of 4 inches each and adding one part to the blade, thus making the gauge point on the blade 16 inches instead of 12 inches, which regulates the extra length and the change in bevels. A little study on the part of the reader will reveal to him how the square may be set to gauge points so as to make a brace suitable for any rise and run of any right-angled frame work.

A brace intended for equal run and rise of four feet is shown at Fig. 32. Here we have the fence in use, and the square is shown in all its positions from start to finish in the formation of the brace. The gauge line marked _0000_ is the line from which the marks 12 and 12 are supposed to measure, and this when squared over as shown leaves a butt, or “heel of the brace,” which is to rest on a shoulder “boxed” in both beam and post. The dotted lines on the ends of the brace show the tenons for which mortises are made in both post and girt or beam. It must be understood, of course, that this operation is only performed once for each kind of brace, and that on a pattern made of some kindly wood, such as pine, cedar or whitewood. For the pattern, dress up a piece of wood to 4 inches wide if the braces are to be made of 4x4-inch stuff; if for larger or smaller stuff then make the pattern the width of brace to suit. Have the pattern of sufficient length; if for a 4-foot run and rise it will require to be not less than 6 feet long. Run a gauge line three-eighths of an inch from the straight or front edge, as shown at 0000, and set the two 12-inch marks on this line, then screw the fence tight on the square with its sliding edge against the edge of the pattern, and then slide and mark as shown four times, when the length and bevels of the brace will be obtained. Provide for the tenons beyond the lines shown by the square, or for a “flat-foot” brace, saw the timber off on the lines shown on the edge of the square. After the pattern is made the fence and square may be laid aside, as the pattern can be used for any number of braces, and when finished with on one job, may be safely placed away to use again for the same “run and rise” when occasion arises. The pattern may be any thickness from half an inch to one inch. The same rules may be observed in making patterns for any regular or irregular runs and rises.

With regard to the _brace rule_ as given on steel squares, I may say that there is some slight difference in the lengths given by different makers—though nearly all modern makes figure up alike—but this difference is so small that in soft wood framing it has no effect. In hardwood framing the framer never applies these rules, but gets his lengths with the square and fence.

The length of any brace simply represents the hypothenuse of a right-angled triangle. To find the hypothenuse, extract the square root of the sum of the square of the perpendicular and horizontal runs. For instance, if 6 feet is the horizontal run and 8 feet the perpendicular, 6 squared equals 36, 8 squared equals 64, 36 plus 64 equals 100, the square root of which is 10. These are the figures generally used for squaring the frame of a building or foundation wall.

If the run is 42 inches, 42 squared is 1764, double that amount, both sides being equal, gives 3528, the square root of which is, in feet and inches, 4 feet, 11.40 inches.

In cutting braces always allow in length from a sixteenth to an eighth of an inch more than the exact measurement calls for.

Directly under the half-inch marks on the outer edge of the back of the tongue will be noticed two figures, one above the other. These represent the run of the brace, or the length of two sides of a right-angled triangle; the figures immediately to the right represent the length of the brace or the hypothenuse. For instance, the figures 36-36 59-91 show that the run on the post and beam is 36 inches, and the length of the brace is 50.91 inches.

Upon some squares will be found brace measurements given where the run is not equal, as 18-24 30. It will be noticed that the last set of figures are each just three times those mentioned in the set that are usually used in squaring a building. So if the student or mechanic will fix in his mind the measurements of a few runs, with the length of braces, he can readily work almost any length required.

Take a run, for instance, of 9 inches on the beam and 12 inches on the post. The length of brace is 15 inches. A run, therefore, of 2, 3, 20, or any other number of times the above figures, the length of the brace will bear the same proportion to the run as the multiple used. Thus, if you multiply all the figures by 4 you will have 36 and 48 inches for the run, and 60 inches for the brace, or to remember still more easily, 3, 4 and 5 feet, or 6, 8 and 10 feet.

There are other runs that are just as easily fixed in the mind. 51-inch run, brace 6 feet, 12 hundredths of an inch; 8 feet, 3-inch run, brace 11 feet, 8 inches, etc.

The following examples and explanations on roof framing are simple and easily understood, and cannot fail of being valuable to the young mechanic who aspires to become an expert roof framer. These examples will serve as starters, and in the following volume, which will be issued shortly, more advanced examples will be presented.

ROOF FRAMING.

Roof framing can be done about as many different ways as there are mechanics. But undoubtedly the easiest, most rapid and most practical is framing with the “square.” The following cuts will illustrate several applications of the square as applied to roof framing, and all who are interested in the subject can, by giving it a careful study, be able to frame any ordinary roof the mechanic comes in contact with.

Fig. 33 is an illustration that could well be given much thought and study. It not only gives the most common pitches, but also gives the degrees.

Most carpenters know that half-pitch is 45 degrees, yet few know third pitch is nearly 34, and quarter-pitch about 27 degrees.

A building 24 feet wide (as the rafters come to the center) has a 12-foot run and half-pitch the rise would also be 12 feet, and the length of the rafter would be 17 feet (the diagonal of 12). Length, cuts, etc., could all be figured from the one illustration.

Fig. 34 illustrates a way to cut rafters with the square.

A roof 14 feet wide would have a run of 7 feet, third-pitch would rise 8 inches to every foot run. Therefore, place the square on 8 and 12 seven times, and you have length and cuts.

Fig. 35. For the octagon rafter, proceed same as common rafter, only use 13 for run (in place of 12 for common rafter).

Fig. 36, hip or valley rafter. As these rafters run diagonal with the common rafter and as the diagonal of 1 foot is practically 17 inches, use 17 for run, and proceed same as common rafter.

Length of jacks. If there are to be five, divide the common rafter into six equal parts, use that for a pattern, and it gives the length very nicely. But that will not always work. To get all the different lengths might at first look difficult even to many good mechanics, but it is very simple as illustrated in Fig. 37. If the first jack was one foot from corner apply the square same as for common rafter, and it gives length and cut (mark the length for starting point on next), and if it is 17 inches from the other move the square up to 17, if the next is 15 move up to 15 and so on.

Fig. 38. The side cut of jack to fit hip, if laid down level would, of course, be square miter, but the more the hip rises the sharper the angle. Measure across the square from 8 to 12, and it is nearly 14½, which is the length of rafter to one foot of run. Length and run, cut on length, gives the cut.

Fig. 39, octagon jack. As the octagon miter on level surface is 5 and 12, it must raise same as common jack, and is, therefore, raised to length, or 14½, and 5 cut on length.

Fig. 40, hip rafter, is also length and run, cut on length.

Fig. 41. To bevel top of hip take length and rise and mark on rise.

Fig. 42 is another practical way, which is simply to lay the square on heel or hip. The illustration, explains itself.

Perhaps the most practical way of all to frame a roof, the simplest to understand, easiest to remember, and most rapid to apply is simply to always take the rise and run, measure across the square which gives length. Rise and run give cuts, so you have it all.

Fig. 43 illustrates a roof 25 feet wide and a rise 10 feet, 9 inches, run 12 feet, 6 inches. Measuring across the square from 10¾ to 12½ gives 16½, or 16 feet, 6 inches is the length of rafter.

Fig. 44. If the run of common rafter is 12½, the run of the hip will be diagonal of 12½ which is 17 8-16, as is plainly illustrated.

Fig. 45. As the rise is 10¾ and run 17 8-12, the length will be 20 feet, 2 inches.

Fig. 46. When a roof must go to a certain height to strike another building at a given point, as in additions, porches, etc., don’t forget in getting the rise from plate to given point to allow the squaring up of heel as illustrated; and also remember to allow for ridge whenever one is used.

Fig. 47 illustrates the cut of top of quarter-pitch rafter to lay on top of roof just mentioned. To apply the square first lay it on 12 and 6, which is quarter-pitch, and gives plumb-cut. From plumb-cut lay off pitch of main roof 10¾ and 12½, which gives cut.

Anyone that has studied this with determination will have no trouble in framing any ordinary roof, as the general principles apply to all roofs, pitches, etc. So I will not take up any more space with roof framing at this time, but remember all sheathing, studding, cornice, etc., are made on the same cuts. In fact a hopper is also exactly on the same principle.

Division B.
SOME POINTERS ON ROOF FRAMING.

No matter what people may say to the contrary, there is no method or methods that has ever been devised that is so effective in roof framing, or results so rapidly achieved, as those which are obtained by the use of the steel square. I have shown in some of the earlier pages of this work how rapidly the length, and bevels of any common rafter may be obtained by the simple application of the square, any determined number of times. Thus for a building of, say, 30 ft. in width, which is to have a roof of any given pitch, we arrange the pitch as I have shown, with so many inches on the blade for the run, and so many on the tongue for the rise. This settled, we apply the square fifteen times to the rafter, 15 being half of the width of the building. This then gives the length of the rafter, and a line drawn along the edge of the tongue of the square will give the proper bevel for the top or plumb cut. If there is to be a ridge board on the roof, then half the thickness of such board must be measured back on the line drawn, and the rafter must be cut at that point, this provides for the ridge board being nailed on the face of the cut without in the least changing the pitch.

A line along the edge of the blade, gives the proper bevel for the level or horizontal cut. If the bottom end of the rafter is to have a crow-foot cut on it to fit the plate, the workman will have no difficulty whatever in cutting the foot of the rafter to suit, as all the lines will be at right angles to each other, and a section of the plate may be made on the line of the bevel and the “cuts” laid off to suit the conditions.

In reviewing an article of mine on this method of laying out a rafter, an English carpenter took exceptions to it on the grounds that it would take too much time to lay out the rafters for a whole building by this “tiresome process,” as he called it. Now the Englishman was right from his point of view, but no American workman would ever think of laying out the rafters for a whole building by the process. He would simply make one rafter as I have shown, for a pattern, and use this pattern for laying out all the other rafters for that particular pitch and rise on the same roof. Most workmen, however, make a pattern from thin stuff of some sort, as it is lighter and easier handled. The reviewer suggested as a better way “that the pitch be arranged on the iron square, then measure across the angle from the points of run and pitch, and multiply this measurement by half the width of the roof to be covered.” Now this is all right, but, as a matter of fact, entails more labor of a “tiresome sort” and would use much more time than the method I have taught now for nearly forty years. The American workman, however, does not even require a suggestion as to the quicker method. He will see and adopt it at once without argument.

The method the Englishman would adopt is shown at Fig. 48, where the points of pitch and run are shown at 12 and 8, which makes the diagonal line 14½ inches. To get the length of the rafter for our supposed building then, we must multiply this 14½ inches fifteen times, then we must use the square at the top and bottom of the timber to obtain the necessary bevels for the cutting lines.

Regarding this question of preparing rafters for a common roof, an “old hand” in the use of the steel square writes to me to say: “I do not think that any simpler method can be given for finding the bevels at the heel and point of rafters than that which you have explained in your books, but I do think that the following method for obtaining lengths of rafters, is somewhat better than yours, particularly when employed for estimating purposes. The most common width of buildings in my locality is 24 ft., and with your permission I purpose to take that width for the practical test of my method. As you have given several ways by which the same result can be obtained, I will ask you to compare them with mine.

Finding the length of the hypothenuse by the old rule, we obtain for one-quarter-inch pitch 13:4.99, or, as near as it can be used on the square 13 feet, 5 inches.

Allowing one inch to the foot and trying your method we find, as a result, 13 inches and 7-16 scant, or 13 feet, 5 inches. This is a very simple method, and when the rule is kept perfectly straight, the results are very satisfactory.

By my way I simply multiply the width of the building by the decimal .56, 24×.56=13.44, or as near as can be worked by the square, 13 feet, 5 inches.

Let us try the same rule for a greater width—say 60 feet. By finding the hypothenuse we find as near as can be used by the square, 33 feet, 6½ inches. By my method it would be 60×.56, or 33.60, equal to 33 feet, 7 inches full. By this method the rafters in wide buildings are a little long. Thus, if the building is 52 feet wide, by the hypothenuse it would be 29 feet, 1 inch; my way it would be 29 feet, 1½ inches. I consider this an advantage, as it leaves the point of the rafter very slightly open.

For one-third I follow the same plan, only using the decimal .6. Unlike the decimal used for a quarter pitch the lengths are a very small fraction short; as, for instance, a rafter for a building 60 feet wide, by finding the hypothenuse, would be 36 feet, 1-16 of an inch. By my way, 60×.6=36 feet. A slight difference, truly. If building is 48 feet wide, then by the first method we find 28 feet, 10 inches full; by my way, 28 feet, 9⅜ inches. A little practice will enable the mechanic to allow just enough to make up for the slight difference, so that when rafters are put together the fit will be perfect.

The one-half pitch can be found in the same manner by using the decimal .71. Taking the 24-foot building, length of rafters by the hypothenuse, we find 16 feet, 11 2-3 inches; my way they would be 17 feet full. Again, building 60 feet wide, rafters by the first method would be 42 feet, 6⅛ inches; by my way 60×.71=42 feet, 6 inches. By using this decimal, the length is so near practically correct, that it may be used in all cases.

For a full pitch use the decimal 1.12, and as in the preceding mentioned pitch, and it will be found so near correct that it can be practically used in all cases.

It will be noticed that I have not made any allowance for projection of rafters over the plate. In this case gauge from the crowning side of your rafter the thickness of your projection; allow enough for the latter, and find the lower bevel according to the way you described in your last; measure the length of your rafter from where this bevel crosses the gauge line.

A little practice will enable the mechanic to lay off a rafter in a very short time. I have used the above myself, and have no trouble whatever. While I have no fault to find in your methods, as I know them to be correct, yet it is just as well that workmen should know other methods, as there are many occasions when the “only method” he possesses cannot be applied. Hence I submit the foregoing, at your request.

W. H.”

All this is very true, and right as far as it goes, but it so happens that many workmen do not have the necessary learning to work out these problems in footing on the lines laid down by W. H., but, in order to meet conditions of this kind I have prepared a series of tables which is inserted in the larger volumes, giving the length of rafters for any building having a width of from five to sixty feet and a rise of roof of from one to eighteen feet to ridge. This will cover the whole ground, and form a ready table for the estimator to take his quantities from.

I may be pardoned for again showing the common and simplest method of laying out an ordinary rafter, for notwithstanding all I have said and described and explained on this subject, there will always be some persons who will not be able to grasp the method, unless it is put to them in some other light. I am sure of this from the long experience I have had in the answering of questions of this kind through the columns of different building journals. This is no doubt owing to some constitutional peculiarities of both the person who makes the inquiry and the person who attempts to answer it. This is one of the main reasons why I have admitted into this work various methods and descriptions of others than myself, so that readers will have the same methods described and explained to them in several different ways by several writers.

Let us take the diagrams shown at Fig. 49, which shows a portion of a roof having a quarter pitch. CEB showing the height, and AB the length and inclination of rafter. D shows the foot of the rafter on the plate, cut “flat foot” and the line EC the plumb cut. This is quite plain. The building may be any width, let us say in this case, that it is 30 feet wide from A to O. That will make the distance from A to C 15 feet.

A method of obtaining the bevels for this rafter is given in Fig. 50 where the steel square is shown laid on the pattern with the points 16 inches on the blade and 8 inches on the tongue applied to the edge of the stuff. The line HO on the blade gives the bevel for the foot of the rafter AC. The line OP, Fig. 50 gives the bevel for the top of the rafter or the plumb cut, as most workmen call it. Now, there is nothing in this diagram, which is from Bell’s Carpentry, an excellent work—from which the workman can get the length of his rafter, without complicating matters. Had the figures 12 inches and 6 inches on the square been employed instead of 16 and 8, then the distance across the diagonal from these two points would have equalled on the rafter, one foot on the base line or seat of the rafter, so that 15 times that length would have been the total length of the rafter. Better still, however, would have been the application of the square 15 times on the edge of the rafter pattern with the points 12 and 6 on gauge points, then both length and bevels would have been obtained at one operation.

Of course, the expert workman will often invent, or discover, methods of using the square in certain phases of roof framing, that can not be found in books, or that cannot be taught because of the peculiar circumstances of the particular case. Having a fair knowledge of the uses of the steel, the workman will seldom be overtaken by difficulties he cannot overcome if he studies the problems before him and then employs his knowledge of the square to their solution, as a little application on this line will remove all possible troubles.

Every carpenter knows, or ought to know, that the run and rise of the rafter taken on the square will give the seat and plumb cuts, but inasmuch as buildings are not all of the same width, it requires a different set of figures for each run, and as it requires an extra calculation to first find the run of the hip or valley, it is better to use the full scale for a one-foot run of the common rafter which answers for any run.

Referring to Fig. 51, we show a square bounded by A, B, C, D, the sides of which are 12 inches. E is at a point 5 inches from B, and C 12 inches from B. B-A represents the run of the common rafter. E-A represents the run of the octagon hip or valley, and C-A the same for the common hip or valley, their lengths, being 12, 13, and 17 respectively. Now since 12, 13, and 17 are fixed numbers, we take them on the tongue of the square, as shown in Fig. 52. Now suppose we want to find the lengths and cuts of the rafters for the ⅜ pitch. We take 9 on the blade. Why? Because the run being 12 inches, the span must be two times 12, which equals 24, and since the pitch is reckoned by the span, we find that ⅜ of 24 is 9, which represents the rise of the foot run. Then 12 and 9 give the seat and plumb cuts for the common rafter, 13 and 9 for the octagon hip or valley, and 17 and 9 gives the same for the common hip or valley. In Fig. 53 I show each separately.

The measurement line of hips and valleys is at a line along the center of its back, and just where to place the square on the side of the rafter so as to make the cuts and length come right at that point is a question that taxes the skill of most carpenters, especially so when the rafters are so backed. In Fig. 54 I have tried to make the above points clear.

First, I show the plan of the rafter. The cross lines on same represent an external corner for the hip and valley respectively. Above the plan is shown the elevation. The sections 1-2-3-4 represent the position of the rafters under the following conditions: No. 1 hip when not backed, No. 2 hip when backed, No. 3 valley when not backed, No. 4 valley when backed. No. 1 is outlined by heavy lines, and sets lower than the others. By tracing the bottom line of the sections down to the seat of No. 1, thence up to the second elevation will show just how deep the notching should be for each rafter. No. 1 cuts into the right hand vertical line from the plan, which would make it stand at the right height above the plate, but in order to make the seat cut clear the corner of plate, it is necessary to cut into the center line above the plan. No. 2 cuts into the same points as No. 1, but owing to its being backed, the seat cut drops accordingly. No. 3 cuts into the center vertical line, and in order to clear the edges of the plate must cut out at the sides to the left vertical line. No. 4 cuts in the same as the latter, but as much lower than No. 3 as No. 2 is below No. 1.

The outer vertical lines from the plan represent the width of the rafter. Therefore if the rafter be two inches thick, would be one inch apart, and this amount set off along the seat line (or a line parallel with it) will give the gauge point on the side of the rafter. To make this clearer refer to Fig. 53; 17 and 9 gives the cuts. Now leaving the square rest as it is, measure back from 17 one-half the thickness of the rafter, and this will be the gauge line point from which to remove the wood back to the center line of hip, and the measurement from the edge of the rafter taken vertically down to the gauge point set off on the plumb cut regulates how far apart the parallel lines of the seat cuts will be under the above conditions. This rule applies to any roof so long as the pitches are regular.

Proceed in like manner for the octagon hip, the variation, however, is practically one-half of the above results for the square cornered building.

Fig. 55 illustrates side cut of the jack, 12 on the tongue, and 15 (length of the common rafter) on the blade.

Fig. 56 illustrates side cut of the octagon jack, 5 on the tongue and 15 on the blade.

Fig. 57 illustrates the side cut of the hip or valley, 17 on tongue, 19¼ (length of the hip) on the blade giving the cut in each case.

The latter, however, is for the unbacked rafter. If it has been previously backed, then apply the square with the above figures on the lower edge at bottom of the plumb cut, or apply the square as for the jack, Fig. 56, to the backing line, which will give the same result as 17 and 19¼.

It is quite clear that when a workman cuts a common rafter, he is also cutting a timber that would answer for a hip for a building of less span having the same rise, only taking some adjustment of the top bevel to fit against a ridge. This is quite plain, and if we refer to Fig. 58, we find that the common rafter for a 1-foot run becomes a hip for an 8½-inch run, and that a hip for a 1-foot run of the building becomes a common rafter for a 17-inch run. Therefore, the rule that applies to the common rafter also applies to the hip rafter, _i. e._, the run and rise taken on the square will give the seat and plumb cuts. The run and length of the rafter taken on the square will give the side cuts, or taking the scale for a 1-foot run, Fig. 58, it is 12 on the tongue and the rise on the blade for the common rafter, and 17 on the tongue and rise on the blade for the hip. The tongue giving the seat cut and the blade the plumb cut. For the side cuts we take 12 on the tongue and 15⅝ inches on the blade, and the blade will give the side cut of the jack. Take 17 on the tongue and the length of the hip, 19¾ inches, on the blade and the blade will give the side cut of the hip. It would also be the side cut of the corresponding jack if it be a common rafter. Seventeen is used for a foot run of the hip rafter because the diagonal of a 12-inch square is practically 17 inches.

If we were to use 12 on the tongue for a foot run of the hip the rise to the foot would necessarily be less than 10 inches. In Fig. 59 I show what the difference is in rise to the foot.

From 12 to 12 is the length of the run of the hip would only have 10-17 of an inch to one run of the common rafter, and an equal rise of the common rafter, set off as at A, and a line from this to 12 on the tongue passes at 7 1-17 inches on the blade, because the common rafter having a rise of 10 inches to one foot, for one inch it would have 10-12 of an inch, while the hip would only have 10-17 of an inch to one inch and for 12 inches it would be 12 times 10-17 equals 120-17, or 7 1-17 inches. Therefore the figures given in the second illustration would give the same cuts as those in the first, but as the latter necessitates a calculation that ends in fractions—fractions not given on the square—and for that reason 17 is generally used for a foot run for the hips and valleys.

AN UNEQUAL PITCH.

In the matter of roofing over unequal pitches when there is no ridge and when all hips meet, the building being longer than it is wide, the backing of hips and their lengths and bevels would be a very easy matter if a drawing of the whole thing was made, but, to obtain these by the use of the square alone, is somewhat more difficult. Let us assume the building to be 18 feet wide and 28 feet long, and having a rise of 9 feet, then, by referring to Fig. 60, we show to one inch scale the length, run, rise, seat, and plumb cuts for the hip and common rafters as follows: The run of the long way of the building is 14, and 9 for the narrow way, which we take on the blade and tongue respectively, as shown on square No. 1, and to this apply square No. 2, as shown. AD equals the run of the hip. AE equals the rise and ED equals the length of the hip. The reader will notice that the letters A, B, C, D form a parallelogram, with side and ends equal to the runs of the common rafters. Therefore, by taking the runs on the tongue, as shown by the squares Nos. 3 and 4, will give their lengths, seat and plumb cuts.

In Fig. 61 is shown the intersection of the rafters at the peak and as the lengths of all rafters are scaled to run to a common center it is necessary that the common rafters must cut back so as to fit in the angle formed by the hips. The proper deduction for this is shown in Fig. 62 by placing two squares on the back of the rafter, with the heel or corner of the squares resting on the center line. The distance from the corner of the square to B measured square back (at right angles) from the plumb bevel, as shown in Fig. 61, will locate the point of the long common rafter at B in Fig. 61. Proceed in like manner for the short common rafter, taking the distance from the corner at C, and for the side cuts, take 14 on the tongue and the length of the short common rafter CE on the blade—the blade will give the cut at AC in Fig. 61. The reader will observe that this angle is the same as that for the side cut of the jack. Proceed in like manner for the long common rafter side, using 9 on the tongue and BE on the blade. These same figures will give the side cuts of the hip, provided hip has been previously backed. Taking the last for example the reader will observe that 9 on the tongue and BE on the blade the square would lay on the plane of the backing and the blade giving the cut along the line BB in Fig. 61, or these cuts may be found by measuring square back from a plumb bevel at points A and A, Fig. 62, the distance AC and AB, which will give the proper plumb cut at the sides and intersecting the line AA at the center. These same distances, AC and AB, but transferred to opposite sides, set off on the seat cut or a line parallel with it, will give the gauge points on the side of the hip for the backing.

The lengths of the jacks may be found by dividing the length of the common rafter by the number of the spacings for the jacks; the quotient will be the common difference.

END OF DIVISION B.

THE STEEL SQUARE AND ITS USES.
DIVISION C.
_Introductory._

During my long experience as Editor of several of the leading building journals in the United States and Canada, I have been asked and have answered thousands of questions regarding matters concerning building construction, builders’ materials, tools and processes, and particularly regarding the “Steel Square and its Uses,” and I have concluded that the publication of a few of these questions and answers, along with other matter, in this division will be appreciated by my readers, and to this end I insert a number of the most useful items in this manual.

Besides these questions and answers, I also publish other up to date matter, all of which will make this volume one of the most useful little works to the American carpenter and wood-worker ever published.

I open this division with a few hints regarding the construction, or rather the laying out of a Hip-Roof where the design has been furnished by an architect, and which, of course, shows the pitch and the lay of the timbers. We suppose the roof to have a span of 18 feet and a rise of 6 feet, thus giving the roof a one-third pitch. The fence is used in this example to its full extent, and when placed on the square and fastened, the line of fence shows the slope or pitch of roof. Fig. 64 shows the square set to the pitch of the hip rafter. The squares as set give the plumb and level cuts. Fig. 65 is the rafter plan of a house 18 by 24 feet; the rafters are laid off on the level, and measure nine feet from center of ridge to outside of wall; there should be a rafter pattern with a plumb cut at one end, and the foot cut at the other, got out as previously shown. When the rafter foot is marked, place the end of the long blade of the square to the wall line, as in drawing, and mark across the rafter at the outside of the short blade, and these marks on the rafter pitch will correspond with two feet on the level plan; slide the square up the rafter and place the end of the long blade to the mark last made, and mark outside the short blade as before, repeat the application until nine feet are measured off, and then the length of the rafter is correct; remember to mark off one-half the thickness of ridge-piece. The rafters are laid off on part of plan to show the appearance of the rafters in a roof of this kind, but for working purposes the rafters 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, with one hip rafter, is all that is required.

To proceed, we first lay off common rafter, which has been previously explained; but deeming it necessary to give a formula in figures to avoid making a plan, we take 1-3 pitch. This pitch is 1-3 the width of the building, to point of rafter from wall plate or base. For an example, always use 8, which is 1-3 of 24, on tongues for altitude; 12, ½ the width of 24, on blade for base. This cuts common rafter. Next is the hip-rafter. It must be understood that the diagonal of 12 and 12 is approximately 17 in framing work, and the hip is the diagonal of a square added to the rise of roof; therefore we take 8 on the tongue and 17 on the blade; run the same number of times as common rafter which gives the length of hip and plumb and level bevels.

To cut jack rafters, divide the number of openings for common rafters. Suppose we have five jacks, with six openings, our common rafter 12 feet long, each jack would be 2 feet shorter. The first, next the hip, 10 feet, the second 8 feet, third 6 feet, and so on. The top down cut same as down cut for common rafter. For the bevel, cut against hip. Take half the width of building on tongue and length of common rafter on blade, and blade gives the bevel. Now find diagonal of 8 and 12, which is 14 7-16 in. Take this length on blade and 12 on tongue, blade gives bevels. If the hip-rafter is beveled or “backed” to suit jacks, then take height of hip on tongue, length of hip on blade, and tongue gives bevel. These figures will cover all bevels for cutting, cornice and sheathing. For bed moulds for gable to fit under cornice, take half width of building on tongue, length of common rafter on blade; blade gives cut. To cut planceer to run up valley, take height of rafter on tongue, length of rafter on blade; tongue gives bevel. For plumb cut, take height of hip on tongue, length of hip on blade; tongue gives bevel.

These figures were specially prepared for a hip roof having a one-third pitch, but will suit other pitches equally well if the difference in height of ridge is considered.

For a hopper the mitre is cut on the same principle. To make a butt joint, take the width of side on blade, and half the flare on tongue: the latter gives the cut. You will observe that a hip-roof is the same as a hopper inverted. The cuts for the edges of the pieces of a hexagonal hopper are found this way. Subtract the width of one piece at the bottom from the width of same at top, take remainder on tongue, depth of side on blade; tongue gives the cut. The cut on face of sides: Take 7-12 of the rise on tongue and the depth of side on blade; tongue gives cut. The bevel of top and bottom: Take rise on blade, run on tongue; tongue gives cut.

SOME QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
FROM VARIOUS CORRESPONDENTS.

The following questions and answers from practical workmen are considered among the very best things regarding the use of the Steel Square, as they are from men who knew of what they were talking about. They are gathered from many sources, but chiefly from the columns of Technical Journals with which I have been connected, either as Editor or contributor.

Jas. Willis, Rochester, N. Y., asks: “How can I get the proper bevel for a butt joint on an obtuse or acute angle, by the use of the square only?”

Answer: Suppose Fig. 66 represents an obtuse angle formed by two parallel boards or timbers. To obtain the joint, A, space off equal distances from the point 1 to 3, 3, then square over from the lines, R, R, keeping the heel of the square at the points 3, 3. At the junction of the lines formed by the tongue of the square at 0 will be one point, and 1 will be the other by which the joint line, A, is defined.

To find the line of juncture for an acute angle, proceed as follows: Fig. 67 represents two parallel boards or timbers; 1 the extreme angle, 3, 3 equal distances from the angle 1 and are the points where the heel of the square must rest to form the lines 0, 3; 0 shows the junction of the lines formed by the blade of the square. Draw a line from 0 to 1, and the line, A, formed, is the bevel required.

It will be seen, by these two examples, that the bevel of a junction at any angle may be obtained by this method.

P. McVity, Milwaukee, asks: “How can I draw a circle with the Steel Square?”

Answer: A circle of any required diameter may be drawn by means of the square by using it as indicated in the accompanying sketch. Drive two pins or nails, A and B, Fig. 68, at whatever distance apart the circle is to have as its diameter. Bring the square against them, as shown, and use a pencil in the angle as indicated in the drawing. This rule is very convenient in many instances. Suppose A and B are two points through which a circle is required to be drawn. By bringing the square against pins or nails placed in the points, it may be described as indicated in the sketch.

A “Mechanic,” Tampa, Fla., asks: “Can the steel square be used in laying out a wreath for a handrail, and if so, please describe how?”

Answer: Some advance in this direction has been made, but not much, but the outlook is quite encouraging as many experts are trying to obtain all the lines required for forming circular handrails. It will be accomplished sooner or later. A few problems and solutions are given herewith: In getting out face-molds it has generally been considered necessary first to unfold the tangents and get the heights, and by construction get the bevels. The method shown is somewhat different, though results are the same, but are produced more rapidly. Take for illustration a side wreath mitered into a newel cap. This method will apply no matter where the newel is placed, or whether the easement is less or more than the one step of the example illustrated. What is meant by one step is, that the tangent of the straight rail continues to the point 2, Fig. 69. The tangent 2-1 is level.

To produce the face mould, lay the steel square in the position, indicated by the lines 1, 2, 3, 4, not the figure on the square at the points numbered, and transfer them to a piece of thin stuff, Fig. 70. Line 3-4 in Fig. 70 is indefinite. Now take the length of the long edge of the pitch board in the compasses, and with 2, Fig. 70, as a center, cut the line 3-4 in 4 and draw 2-4. Now 1-2 is the level, and 2-4 is the pitch tangent on the face mold.

To get the bevels and width of the face mold at both ends, take the distance 3-4 on the blade of the square, and the height of a riser on the tongue of the square, apply to the edge of a board and mark by the tongue; this gives the width of the mold at the lower end.

Next take the distance 4-X on the blade of the square, and the distance shown on the pitch board by the line squared from its top edge to the corner, on the tongue of the square; apply to the edge of a board and mark by the tongue; this gives the bevels for the top end of the wreath. Mark the width of the rail on the bevel, and this gives the width of the mold at the top end. An allowance of 6 inches is made at the top end to joint to the straight rail, and two inches at the bottom end to form the miter into the newel cap. The springing line is taken from the pitch board.

Fig. 69, in which are shown the bevels and the pitch board will help to make clear the methods used. The bevel at the back of the pitch board is for the bottom end of the wreath. The triangle has for its base the line 3-4 and for its height one riser. The hypothenuse is the length of 2-4, Fig. 70, and Fig. 70 stands over Fig. 69, level on the line 1-2-3, and inclined from it in this cast at an angle of nearly 45 degrees.

The top end bevel is shown below the pitch board. The angle has for its base the distance 4-x, and for its height not one rise, but the length of a line, from the corner of the pitch board squared from its top edge. This bevel will be understood better by placing the pitch board on the line 2-4 and applying the small triangle to it with its base on the line 4-x, and its point even with the top edge of the pitch board. It will then be at right angles to the top edge of the pitch board.

In practice, a parallel mold is generally used, and the wreath piece is cut out; both thickness of plank and width of molding being equal to the diameter of a circle that will contain a section of finished rail.