Chapter XIV: Boisè City to the Columbia

Idaho.--Boisè City.--Miners.--Saloons.--Specie and "Dust"
_vs._ Greenbacks.--John Chinaman.--An Idaho Dogberry
_vs._ Judge Lynch.--Idaho generally.--Fort Boisè.--A
Lucky Paymaster.--"Swinging Round the Circle."--Off for
the Columbia.--Burnt River and Powder River and their
Valleys.--Snake River again.--Farewell Bend.--Steamboating
on the Snake.--Bituminous Coal.--Oregon.--Baker
City.--Grand Ronde Valley.--Le Grande.--Crossing
the Blue Mountains.--Mules _vs._ Horses.--Le Grande
River.--Scenery.--A Corkscrew Road.--"Jordan a Hard Road
to Travel."--Freight Trains and Teamsters.--Some "Horse"
Philosophy.--Bull-whackers as a Class.--Ox-teams.--A
Hard Pull.--Break-downs.--"Meacham's."--A Live
Oregonian.--Pikes and Confederates.--Caught in a Snow
Storm.--A Fine View.--"Crawfords."--"Well's Springs."--A
Sick Horse.--Umatilla River.--Indian Reservation.--Fine
Water-power--John Wilful.--A Specimen Idahoan.--Good-bye to
Stage-coaching, etc. 223-249

CHAPTER XV.

_Down the Columbia._

Umatilla.--Indians.--A Mr. Micawber.--Steamboats.--Capt.
Stump.--Oregon Steam Navigation Company.--The
Columbia and its Tributaries.--Indians.--"Calico"
Horses.--Celilo.--Railroad Portages.--Shooting the Rapids
in a Steamboat.--The Dalles.--Upper Cascades.--Lower
Cascades.--Wild and Picturesque River Scenery.--Cascade
Mountains.--Cañon of the Columbia.--Castle Rock.--Mount
Hood.--Hood from the Columbia.--Quick Changes of
Climate.--Coast Region and Rains.--Fellow-passengers. 250-260

CHAPTER XVI.

_Fort Vancouver to San Francisco._

Vancouver.--Gen. Steele.--About Sherman.--The Truth as to Grant's
Vicksburg Campaign.--A True Army Bachelor.--Isothermal
Lines.--Superb Hood again.--Portland.--Her Enterprise
and Importance.--Yankee Doodle _vs._ John Bull.--Puget
Sound.--Oregonians generally.--John Chinaman.--His Good
Qualities.--Off for San Francisco by Steamer.--Mountain Views
from Mouth of Willamette.--Jefferson, Hood, Adams, and St.
Helen's.--Astoria.--Rain and Fog.--Bar of the Columbia.--Fort
Stevens and Cape Disappointment.--Crossing the Bar.--The
Oriflamme and Capt. Conner.--Sea Sickness.--Bad Weather.--A
Rough Voyage.--Off 'Frisco.--All hail, the Golden Gate!
261-275

CHAPTER XVII.

_San Francisco._

Her Position Geographically.--Her Great Bay.--Location
of City faulty.--Her Sand-hills.--Her Sea-wall.--Her
Great Commerce.--Some Statistics.--The View from
Telegraph Hill.--Her Progress and Energy.--Bad
Climate.--Her Rainy Winters.--Her Earthquakes.--Her Raw
Summers.--Montgomery Street.--Her Public Buildings.--Private
Residences.--Flower Gardens.--Wind-mills.--The Representative
Californian.--Montgomery Street Dames.--Her Sabbaths.--Jewish
Synagogue.--Starr King's Church.--Other Churches.--Society
generally. 276-289

CHAPTER XVIII.

_San Francisco_ (continued).

Greenbacks _vs._ Gold and Silver.--General Prices.--Loyalty
of the Coast.--Anxious for Alaska.--Christmas and
New Year's.--Lucky Army Officers.--Adventure on the
Bay.--Oakland.--Cliff House and Sea Lions.--"Ben Butler"
and "Gen. Grant."--Fine Ride.--Ups and Downs of California
Life.--Eccentric Oscar H.--Things Improving. 290-299

CHAPTER XIX.

_San Francisco_ (concluded).

The Heathen Chinee.--Their Numbers, Costumes, Habits,
etc.--Eager to Learn Melican Ways.--Pigeon English.--Grand
Banquet.--Their Graceful Manners.--Their Great
Companies.--Their Talent for Organization and Business.--They
run the Mission Mills and build the Pacific Railroad.--An
Evening in the Chinese Quarter.--Their Theatre and
Orchestra.--A Lottery Office.--The Barbary Coast.--An
Augean Stable.--Their Gambling Houses.--Chinese New
Year.--Their Hospitality and Politeness.--Good Bankrupt
Law.--Their Josh-Houses and Religion.--The Chinese Problem
generally.--Good Chance for Missionary Work.--_Fiat
Justitia._ 300-321

CHAPTER XX.

_San Francisco to Los Angelos._

Off for Los Angelos.--A Race with the _Golden Age_.--A
Pacific Sea.--Coast Scenes.--Santa Barbara.--Spanish
Missions.--San Pedro.--San Diego.--Her Harbor.--John
Phœnix.--A Deserted Village.--The County
Jail.--Climate.--Business.--Whale-fishing.--San
Pedro again.--Wilmington.--Gen. Banning.--A
Representative Californian.--The Village
Barber--The Los Angelos Plains.--Rancheros.--Wild
Geese, etc.--Acequias.--Los Angelos and its
Suburbs.--Population.--Climate.--Sundays.--Vineyards.--"Don
Benito" Wilson.--His Noble Ranch.--His Orange Groves,
Vineyards, Wine-cellars, etc.--Cheap Lands. 322-338

CHAPTER XXI.

_Wilmington to Fort Yuma._

Outfit.--Getting Off.--Anaheim.--German Enterprise.--Santa
Anna River.--Laguna Grande.--A Spanish Hacienda.--Buena
Vista.--Villacito.--Colorado Desert.--Carissa
Creek.--Desolate Landscapes.--Sand Storms.--Mirage.--The
Laguna.--Alamo.--Pilot Knob.--The Country generally.--Stage
Stations.--Carissa Creek again.--A Stray Texan.--Bill
of Fare.--Indians.--A Border Outrage.--Gambling
Charley.--Mexican Exiles.--Maximilian.--"Inside" and
"Outside." 339-354

CHAPTER XXII.

_Fort Yuma to Tucson._

Fort Yuma itself.--Arizona City.--Rio Colorado.--Difficult
Navigation.--High River Freights.--A Yuma Sand
Storm.--The Thermometer at Yuma.--Yuma Indians.--Old
Pasquol.--Good Missionary Ground.--Gov. McCormick,
etc.--"Outfit."--Off for Tucson.--Gila City.--The Gila
itself.--General Scenery.--Gila Bottoms.--Bunch-grass and
Mesquite Trees.--Arizona Settlers.--Gila Bend.--Maricopa
Desert.--A Dangerous Cañon.--Painted Rocks.--The
Country generally.--Big Cactus.--Maricopa and Pimo
Indians.--Well-to-do Aborigines--Indian Traders.--Pimo
Wigwams.--Our then Indian Policy.--Good Roads.--Sparse
Population.--Big Cactus and Bunch-grass.--Picacho and Point
of Mountains.--Climate.--Apaches, etc. 355-373

CHAPTER XXIII.

_Tucson to Prescott._

Tucson.--Misses a "Sensation."--Population.--A
Mexican Padre.--High Prices.--The Santa
Cruz.--Climate.--Apaches.--Blackbirds.--Rip Van Winkle
Town.--Headquarters of Military District.--Route
of Supplies.--Libertad and Guaymas Routes.--Copper
and Silver Mines.--Church at San Xavier.--Maricopa
Wells again.--Freshets in the Gila and Salado.--Col.
Crittenden, etc.--An Out-of-the-way Place.--A Fortunate
Discovery.--Crossing the Gila.--Brave Louis Heller.--Mules
on a Swim.--Crossing the Salado.--Fort McDowell.--Down
the Salado.--Among the Apaches.--Poor Cavalry-horses.--A
Blind Road.--The Agua Frio.--White Tanks.--A Supperless
Night.--Up the Hassayampa.--A Hard Road to Travel.--Arizona
Quicksands.--No Hurry for Population or Business.--Roads and
Bridges Wanted. 374-389

CHAPTER XXIV.

_Tuscon to Prescott_ (continued).

Wickenburg.--The Vulture Mine.--A Fine Quartz-mill.--A Valuable
Mining Property.--San Francisco Mountains.--Singular
Roads.--Skull Valley.--Sparse Population.--Apaches and
Yavapais.--Bell's Cañon.--Indian Attacks generally.--The
Intervening Country.--Ancient Ruins and Broken Pottery.--A
Huge Acequia.--Work for Antiquarians.--Good Bottoms along the
Salado and Gila.--A Railroad Much Needed. 390-396

CHAPTER XXV.

_Prescott, the Apaches, etc._

Prescott.--A New-England-like Village.--An Army Officer's
Opinion.--Location, Plan, Buildings, etc.--A Barber's
Opinion.--Her Gold and Silver Mines.--Her Quartz-mills
Idle.--Mining Operations "Sick."--Her Advantages,
however.--Capital of Arizona.--Population of Territory.--The
Indians.--The Apaches generally.--Their Brave Exploits.--Good
Horse-thieves.--Their Wise Strategy.--Their Captive
Children.--A Raid near Prescott.--Their Pursuit to Hell Cañon
and beyond.--Gen. Irvin Gregg.--A Fight with the Apaches.--A
Dangerous District.--A Typical Emigrant.--Aztec Remains.--A
Fine Wild Turkey.--Fort Whipple.--A Costly Post.--An
Expensive Flag-staff, etc.--Hail, Cavalry Gregg! 397-408