Chapter II: Part I: Chapter I

MAY-JUNE, 1815

Passage from Ceylon to England--Napoleon's return--Ostend--Bruges --Ghent--The King of France at Mass--Alost--Bruxelles--The Duke of Wellington very confident--Feelings of the Belgians--Good conduct of British troops--Monuments in Bruxelles--Theatricals--Genappe and Namur--Complaints against the Prussian troops--Mons--Major-General Adam--Tournay--A French deserter--General Clinton's division--Cavalry review--The Duke de Berri--Back to Bruxelles--Unjust opinions about Napoleon and the French--Battle at Ligny--The day of Waterloo in Bruxelles--Visit to the battlefield--Terrible condition of the wounded--Kindness of the Bruxellois.

CHAPTER II

From Bruxelles to Liége--A priest's declamation against the French Revolution--Maastricht--Aix-la-Chapelle--Imperial relics--Napoleon regretted--Klingmann's "Faust"--A Tyrolese beauty--Cologne--Difficulties about a passport--The Cathedral--King-craft and priest-craft--The Rhine--Bonn and Godesberg--Goethe's "Götz von Berlichingen"--The Seven Mountains--German women--Andernach--Ehrenbreitstein--German hatred against France--Coblentz--Intrigues of the Bourbon princes in Coblentz--Mayence-- Bieberich--Conduct of the Allies towards Napoleon--Frankfort on the Mayn--An anecdote about Lord Stewart and Lafayette--German poetry--The question of Alsace and Lorraine--Return to Bruxelles--Napoleon's surrender.

CHAPTER III

From Bruxelles to Paris--Restoration of Louis XVIII--The officers of the allied armies--The Palais Royal--The Louvre--Protest of the author against the proposed despoiling of the French Museums--Unjust strictures against Napoleon's military policy--The _cant_ about revolutionary robberies--The Grand Opera--Monuments in Paris--The Champs Elysées--Saint-Cloud--The Hôtel des Invalides--The Luxembourg--General Labédoyère--Priests and emigrants--Prussian Plunder--Handsome behaviour of the English officers--Reminiscences of Eton--Versailles.

CHAPTER IV

From Paris to Bruxelles--Visiting the plains of Waterloo--The Duke de Berri at Lille--Beauvais--Return to Paris--Remarks on the French theatre --Talma--Mlle Duchesnois--Mlle Georges--French alexandrine verse--The Abbé Delille--The Opéra Comique.

CHAPTER V

From Paris to Milan through Dijon, Chalon-sur-Saone, Lyons, Geneva and the Simplon--Auxerre--Dijon--Napoleon at Chalon-sur-Saone--The army of the Loire--Mâcon--French _grisettes_--Lyons--Monuments and theatricals-- Geneva--Character and opinions of the Genevois--Voltaire's chateau at Ferney--The chevalier Zadera--From Geneva to Milan--Crossing the Simplon--Arona--The theatres in Milan--Rossini--Monuments in Milan--Art encouraged by the French--Mr Eustace's bigotry--Return to Switzerland --Clarens and Vevey--Lausanne--Society in Lausanne--Return to Paris--The Louvre stripped--Death of Marshal Ney.

PART II

CHAPTER VI

MARCH-JUNE, 1816

Ball at Cambray, attended by the Duke of Wellington--An Adventure between Saint Quentin and Compiègne--Paris revisited--Colonel Wardle and Mrs Wallis--Society in Paris--The Sourds-Muets--The Cemetery of Père La Chaise--Apathy of the French people--The priests--Marriage of the Duke de Berri.

CHAPTER VII

Journey from Paris to Lausanne--Besançon--French refugees in Lausanne --Francois Lamarque--General Espinassy--Bordas--Gautier--Michau--M. de Laharpe--Mlle Michaud--Levade, a Protestant minister--Chambéry--Aix --Details about M. de Boigne's career in India--English Toryism and intolerance--Valley of Maurienne--Passage across Mont Cenis and arrival at Suza--Turin.

CHAPTER VIII

Journey from Turin to Bologna--Asti--Schiller and Alfieri--Italian _cuisine_--The _vetturini_--Marengo--Piacenza--The Trebbia--Parma--The Empress Maria Louisa--Modena--Bologna--The University--The Marescalchi Gallery--Character of the Bolognese.

CHAPTER IX

Journey across the Appennines to Florence--Tuscan idioms and customs--Monuments and galleries at Florence--The Cascino--Churches-- Theatres--Popularity of the Grand Duke--Napoleon's downfall not regretted--Academies in Florence.

CHAPTER X

Journey from Florence to Rome--Sienna--Radicofani--Bolsena--Montefiascone wine--Viterbo--Baccano--The Roman Campagna--The papal _douans_--Monuments and Museums in Rome--Intolerance of the Catholic Christians--The Tiber and the bridges--Character of the Romans--The _Palazzi_ and _Ville_--Canova's atelier--Theatricals--An execution in Rome.

CHAPTER XI

From Rome to Naples--Albano--Velletri--The Marshes--Terracina--Mola di Gaeta--Capua--The streets of Naples--Monuments and Museums--Visit to Pompeii and ascent to Vesuvius--Dangerous ventures--Puzzuoli and Baiae--Theatres at Naples--Pulcinello--Return to Rome--Tivoli.

CHAPTER XII

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER, 1816

From Rome to Florence--Sismondi the historian--Reminiscences of India--Lucca--Princess Elisa Baciqochi--Pisa--The Campo Santo--Leghorn-- Hebrews in Leghorn--Lord Dillon--The story of a lost glove--From Florence to Lausanne by Milan, Turin and across Mont Cenis--Lombardy in winter--The Hospice of Mont Cenis.

PART III

CHAPTER XIII

MARCH-SEPTEMBER, 1817

Journey from Lausanne to Clermont-Ferrand--A wretched conveyance--The first dish of frogs--Society in Clermont-Ferrand--General de Vergennes-- Cleansing the town--Return to Lausanne--A zealous priest--Journey to Bern and back to Lausanne--Avenches--Lake Morat--Lake Neufchatel--The Diet in Bern--Character of the Bernois--A beautiful Milanese lady.

CHAPTER XIV

SEPTEMBER, 1817-APRIL, 1818

Journey from Lausanne to Milan, Florence, Rome and Naples--Residence at Naples--The theatre of San Carlo--Rossini's operas--Gaming in Naples--The _Lazzaroni_--Public writers--Carbonarism--Return to Rome--Christmas eve at Santa Maria Maggiore--Mme Dionigi--Theatricals--Society in Rome--The papal government--Lucien Bonaparte, prince of Canino--Louis Napoleon, ex-King of Holland--Pope Pius VII--Thorwaldsen--Granet--The Holy Week in Rome--The Duchess of Devonshire--From Rome to Florence by the Perugia road.

CHAPTER XV

APRIL-JULY, 1818

Journey from Florence to Pisa and from thence by the Appennines to Genoa--Massa--Carrara--Genoa--Monuments and works of art--The Genoese--Return to Florence--Journey from Florence through Bologna and Ferrara to Venice--Monument to Ariosto in Ferrara--A description of Venice--Padua--Vicenza--Verona--Cremona--Return to Milan--The Scala theatre--Verona again--From Verona to Innspruck.

CHAPTER XVI

JULY-SEPTEMBER, 1818

Innspruck--Tyrol and the Tyrolese--From Innspruck to Munich--Monuments and churches--Theatricals--Journey from Munich to Vienna on a floss--Trouble with a passport--Complicated system of Austrian money--Description of Vienna--The Prater--The theatres--Schiller's _Joan of Arc_--A _Kinderballet_--The young Napoleon at Schoenbrunn--Journey from Vienna to Prague.

CHAPTER XVII

SEPTEMBER, 1818-MARCH, 1819

The splendid city of Prague--The German expression, "To give the basket"-- Journey from Prague to Dresden--Journey from Dresden to Berlin--A description of Berlin--The Prussian Army--Theatricals--Peasants talk about Napoleon--Prussians and French should be allies--Absurd policy of the English Tories--Journey from Berlin to Dresden--A description of Dresden--The battle of Dresden in 1813--Clubs at Dresden--Theatricals-- German beds--Saxon scholars--The picture gallery--Tobacco an ally of Legitimacy--Saxon women--Meissen--Unjust policy of Europe towards the King of Saxony.

CHAPTER XVIII

MARCH-APRIL, 1819

Journey from Dresden to Leipzig--The University of Leipzig--Liberal spirit--The English disliked in Saxony--The English Government hostile to liberty--Journey to Frankfort--From Frankfort to Metz and Paris--A.F. Lemaître--_Bon voyage_ to the Allies--Return to England.

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