Chapter II: Preface

These chapters are mainly a republication of the series of letters appearing in the columns of the _St. Louis Globe-Democrat_ during the summer of 1883, and in the _St. Louis Globe-Democrat_ and the _New York Times_ during the summer of 1884. To readers of those journals, and to many exchange editors, who gave further circulation to the letters, they may carry familiar echoes. The only excuse for offering them in this permanent form is the wish that the comparatively unknown territory, with its matchless scenery and many attractions, may be better known, and a hope that those who visit it may find in this book information that will add to their interest and enjoyment of the trip.

In rearranging the original letters many errors have been corrected and new material incorporated. During brief summer visits it was impossible to make any serious study, solve the mysteries of the native people, or give other than fleeting sketches of their out-door life and daily customs. Elaborate resumés of the writings of Baron Wrangell and Bishop Veniaminoff have been given by Professor Dall in his work on “The Resources of Alaska,” and by Ivan Petroff in the Census Report of 1880 (Vol. IX.), and have since been so often and so generally quoted as hardly to demand another introduction to those interested in ethnology. Such mention as I have made of the traditions and customs of the Thlinkets is condensed from many deck and table talks, and from conversations with teachers, traders, miners, and government officers in Alaska. Wherever possible, credit has been given to the original sources of information, and the “Pacific Coast Pilot” of 1883 and other government publications have been freely consulted. The nomenclature and spelling of the “Coast Pilot” have been followed, although to its exactness and phonetic severity much picturesqueness and euphony have been sacrificed.

The map accompanying the book is a reduced section of the last general chart of Alaska published by the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey, and is reproduced here by the permission of the compiler, Prof. William H. Dall.

Of the illustrations, the cut of the Indian grave at Fort Wrangell was one accompanying an article published in _Harper’s Weekly_, August 30, 1884, and other pictures have been presented to readers of the _Wide Awake_ magazine of March, 1885. For views of the Davidson glacier, the North River, and the top of the Muir glacier, and the interior of the Greek Church at Sitka, from which cuts were made, I am indebted to a daring and successful amateur photographer of San Francisco, to whom especial credit is due.

To the officers of the ship and agents of the company I have to express appreciation of the favors and courtesies extended by them to my friends and to myself. Each summer I bought my long purple ticket, reading from Portland to Sitka and return, with pleasurable anticipations; and all of them—and more—being realized, I yielded up the last coupons with regret.

For information given and assistance rendered in the course of this work I am under obligations to many people. I would particularly make my acknowledgments in this place to Prof. WILLIAM H. DALL, Capt. JAMES C. CARROLL, Hon. FREDERIC W. SEWARD, Prof. JOHN MUIR, Prof. GEORGE DAVIDSON, Capt. R. W. MEADE, U.S.N., Capt. C. L. HOOPER, U.S.R.M., and Hon. J. G. SWAN.

E. R. S.

WASHINGTON, D. C., March 15, 1885.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER PAGE

I. THE START—PORT TOWNSEND—VICTORIA—NANAIMO 1

II. THE BRITISH COLUMBIA COAST AND TONGASS 16

III. CAPE FOX AND NAHA BAY 26

IV. KASA-AN BAY 31

V. FORT WRANGELL AND THE STIKINE 46

VI. WRANGELL NARROWS AND TAKU GLACIERS 72

VII. JUNEAU, SILVER BOW BASIN, AND DOUGLASS ISLAND 81
MINES

VIII. THE CHILKAT COUNTRY 100

IX. BARTLETT BAY AND THE HOONIAHS 123

X. MUIR GLACIER AND IDAHO INLET 131

XI. SITKA—THE CASTLE AND THE GREEK CHURCH 153

XII. SITKA—THE INDIAN RANCHERIE 174

XIII. SITKA—SUBURBS AND CLIMATE 184

XIV. SITKA—AN HISTORICAL SKETCH 198

XV. SITKA—HISTORY SUCCEEDING THE TRANSFER 214

XVI. EDUCATION IN ALASKA 229

XVII. PERIL STRAITS AND KOOTZNAHOO 236

XVIII. KILLISNOO AND THE LAND OF KAKES 246

XIX. THE PRINCE OF WALES ISLAND 258

XX. HOWKAN, OR KAIGAHNEE 269

XXI. THE METLAKATLAH MISSION 280

XXII. HOMEWARD BOUND 289

XXIII. SEALSKINS 300

XXIV. THE TREATY AND CONGRESSIONAL PAPERS 315

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

MAP OF ALASKA _Frontispiece_

THREE CARVED SPOONS AND SHAMAN’S RATTLE 38

TOTEM POLES AT FORT WRANGELL 53

GRAVE AT FORT WRANGELL 55

SILVER BRACELETS AND LABRETTES 61

A THLINKET BASKET 90

THE DAVIDSON GLACIER 103

CHILKAT BLANKET 106

THLINKET BIRD-PIPE (Side and bottom) 127

DIAGRAM OF THE MUIR GLACIER 133

RIVER ON NORTH SIDE OF THE MUIR GLACIER 137

GLACIER BAY—FRONT OF THE MUIR GLACIER 141

SECTION OF THE MUIR GLACIER (Top) 144

SECTION OF THE MUIR GLACIER (Front) 147

SITKA 155

THE GREEK CHURCH AT SITKA 162

INTERIOR OF THE GREEK CHURCH AT SITKA 165

EASTER DECORATIONS IN THE GREEK CHURCH AT SITKA 167

BASKET WEAVERS AT KILLISNOO 251

INDIAN PIPE 268

TOTEM POLES AT KAIGAHNEE OR HOWKAN 273

THE CHIEF’S RESIDENCE AT KAIGAHNEE, SHOWING TOTEM 274
POLES

HALIBUT HOOK 276

SOUTHERN ALASKA

AND

THE SITKAN ARCHIPELAGO.

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