Chapter IX: Diyârbekr to Konia (2)

sea, and its height, over 13,000 feet, is scarcely less from base to summit than that of the Sicilian volcano.[234] The second day brought us to a khân by the roadside, half-an-hour from the village of Andaval; upon the following morning we reached, after three-quarters of an hour’s drive, the church of Constantine, of which the foundation is attributed by legend to the Empress Helena,[235] and in two hours more we came to Nigdeh, where I halted for a few hours to see the Seljuk mosques and tombs for which the town is famed. Of these the most beautiful is the so-called mausoleum of Havanda, the wife of ’Ala ed Din.[236] It is in ground plan an octagon, but above the windows the number of faces is doubled, the additional angles being built over projecting brackets, finely worked with stalactite ornaments (Figs. 232 and 233). The spandrils above the windows are decorated with pairs of sphinxes (Fig. 234), and the door is framed in a delicate tracery of lace-like patterns. Beyond Bor we came into a well-known country dominated by the twin peaks of Ḥassan Dâgh, the Lesser Argæus, which I greeted with a respect mingled with the familiarity born of an intimate acquaintance with its rocks. Three hours from Nigdeh we reached Emîr Chiflik, where there is a khân unnamed by Kiepert, and next morning we drove into Bulgurlû, the present terminus of the Baghdâd railway. But the art of modern travel accords ill with the habits of the East; the baggage wagon missed the daily train and we were obliged to wait for it at Ereglî.

“Your Excellency does not wish to see the pictures of the Benî Hît?” said Fattûḥ suspiciously as we stepped out upon the platform. We had never before passed through Ereglî without visiting the great Hittite relief in the gorge of Ivrîz. But I reassured him: we had seen enough.

One more expedition lay, however, between us and Konia. It was to be accomplished in light order; indeed, we might have ridden up to the Ḳara Dâgh without possessions, for there was no man in all the mountain who would not have been proud to offer us a lodging. Fattûḥ and I shone there with a reflected glory that radiated from the Chelabî, whose fame is not confined to the Ḳara Dâgh, though few perhaps of his colleagues in the Scottish Academe which he adorns would recognize him under his Anatolian title. Had we not spent weeks under his direction in grubbing among old stones, to the delight and profit of all beholders? Had we not consumed innumerable hares and partridges at twopence a head, and offered a sure market for yaourt and eggs? And when the regretted hour of departure arrived, what store of empty tins and battered cooking pots was left behind to keep our memory green! Our renown extended even to Ḳaramân, where we alighted from the train on the following evening. The khânjî was a trusted friend, the shopkeepers pressed gifts of rose jam upon us, and when the hiring of horses presented a difficulty, I had only to step out into the streets and explain our needs to the first acquaintance whom I met. He happened to be a ḥammâl (a porter) who had done a couple of days’ work for us in the Ḳara Dâgh, and he was intimate with an arabajî (a carriage driver), who would without doubt place his horses at our disposal; and if I would come in and drink a cup of coffee the matter should be settled. I accepted the invitation and was introduced triumphantly to the ḥammâl’s wife: “This is the maid I told you about--she who worked with the Chelabî.” On our way back to the khân we chanced to pass by the exquisite Khâtûnyeh Medresseh,[237] and since the mullah was standing under the carved gateway, I stopped to bid him a good-evening. In the tomb chamber that opens out of the cloistered courtyard I remembered to have seen fragments of a fine inscription of blue tiles: scarcely a tile was left upon the walls and I knew how they had vanished, for I had found one of them in the hands of a Konia dealer and bought it from him. This incident I related to the mullah.

“You did very wrong,” said he. “You have stolen one of our tiles and carried it away.”

“I did not steal it,” I pleaded weakly. “I found it at Konia.”

“It is all one,” he replied. “You should give it back.”

But as we went out through the cloister I noticed that the columns which supported it were double columns of a type peculiar to Christian architecture. They had in all probability been removed from a church.

“Mullah Effendi,” said I, “we are equal. I have taken a tile out of your Moslem tomb, and you the columns from our Christian church.”

The mullah’s indignation vanished in a flash. “Âferîn!” he cried, with a jolly laugh. “Bravo!” and he clapped me on the back.

The ḥammâl’s confidence in the arabajî had not been misplaced; we set out next morning for the Ḳara Dâgh, and every mile was full of delightful reminiscence. The yellow roses dropped their petals in familiar fashion over the mountain path, mullein and borage spread their annual carpet of blue and gold between the ruins, and the peak of Mahalech, on which I had found a Hittite inscription and a Christian monastery, stood guardian, as of old, over the green cup wherein had lain an ancient city. The sturdy Yuruks came striding down from their high yailas to bid us a joyful coming and a slow departure; many were the greetings that passed round the camp fire, and it was well that Fattûḥ had laid in a good provision of coffee at Ḳaramân.

So on a hot morning we struck our last camp and rode down the northern slopes of the mountain to rejoin the railway by which we were to travel to Konia. And as we crossed the level plain Fattûḥ observed with satisfaction:

“The cornland has increased since two years ago. Effendim, there is twice as much sown ground.”

“Praise God!” said I. “It is the doing of the railway.”

“Wherever it passes the corn springs up,” said Fattûḥ. “Mâshallah! Konia will become a great city.”

“It has grown in our knowledge,” said I. “But this year we shall find it much changed, for all our friends have left.”

“Where have they gone?” inquired Fattûḥ.

“Riza Beg is in Salonica,” said I, mentioning one who had eaten out his heart in exile for ten weary years. “He has gone back to his wife and child.”

“He would make haste to join them,” assented Fattûḥ.

“And Meḥmet Pasha is in Constantinople. I saw his name among those who helped to depose the Sultan.”

“He has risen to high honour,” said Fattûḥ. Meḥmet Pasha was another of the proscribed.

“And Suleimân Effendi is deputy for Konia, where he was so long in exile. Oh Fattûḥ, we shall be strangers there now that our friends have gone.”

“Your Excellency will meet them in other cities,” said Fattûḥ. “And they will be free men.”

INDEX

Abbâsid Sâmarrâ, 242

Abu ’Atiḳ, ruins of, 66, 68, 110

Abu Bekr, tekîyeh of, 10, 15

Abu Dulâf, minaret of, 211, 213, 214;
mosque of, 243 _and note_^{1-46}, 246 _note_^{1}

Abu Ḥanîfah, shrine of, 188

Abu Jîr, ruins of, 123, 124, 125, 127

Abu Kemâl, village of, 77, 81-82, 84, 85

Abu’l Ḥassan, tell of, 81, 111, 112-13

Abu Sa’îd, 63, 65, 101, 110, 111

Abu Tuṭah, 61

Aburas (Khâbûr), the, 109

Adana, massacre of Christians at, 251, 252, 302-3, 331-32, 349

’Aḍêm, the, 204 _and note_^{5}

Aeipolis (Hît), 110, 111, 114

Afâḍleh, the, 53

Ager Romanorum, the, 307

’Ain el ’Aṣfûrîyeh, 124

’Ain el ’Awâsil, 124

’Ain et Tamr, oasis of, 135, 139;
history, 156, 157

’Ain Nakhîleh, village of, 26

’Ain Tâb, 32

’Ain Tell, Spring of, 9

’Ain Za’zu’, spring at, 118-19, 122

’Aiwir, ruin of, 118

Ajmîyeh, 89, 90

Akcheh Dâgh, the, 339 _and note_^{1}

Akhaya Kala, island of, 99

Ala Klisse, decoration in, 155

Albistân, 342

Aleppo, saddlers of, 1-3;
politics and religion, 3-8;
municipal income, 8-9;
works of Seif ed Dauleh, 9, 11-12;
Christians of, 9-10;
antiquity of, 10-11;
the Jâmi’ el Ḥelâwîyeh, 11;
mosque of Firdaus, 12;
the Jâmi’ esh Shaibîyeh, 12;
shrine of Ḥussein, 12-13;
architecture, 13-14;
the Bîmâristân El Malik eẓ Ẓâhir, 14;
the citadel, 15-16;
the road to Baghdâd, 126;
gateway of the citadel, the serpent motive, 15, 190;
news of massacre, 317;
distances from, 334, 335

Alexandretta, port of, 334, 335

’Alî Dâgh, 353

’Alḳâmî, the, 164 _note_^{1}

Alḳôsh, 274, 281, 282

Allan, 111, 112

Alûs, 101

Al’ Uzz (Kiepert), 101

Amadîyeh, 288

Amârah, 184, 194

’Amej, castle of, 86, 121

’Amr, mosque of, Cairo, 56 _note_^{2}

’Amrḳan, 262

’Anâb, 44, 47

’Ânah, 85, 87, 88, 89, 113;
the road to, 92-93;
the castle and minaret, 94-96;
history, 96-98

Anatho (’Anah), 92, 109, 111, 114

Andaval, village of, 356

Anderîn, barracks at, 121 _note_^{2}

Annouca, castle of, 68

Anthemusia, 22

Anti Taurus, 327

Antioch Gate, Aleppo, 11, 15

Antioch on the Orontes, 10

Anu and Adad, temple of, 223

Apamea (Strabo), 204

Arabissus, 339 _note_^{1}

Ararat, mountain of, 289

Araxes, the (the Khâbûr), 73

Arba’, village of, 303 _note_^{1}

Arba’în, shrine of the, Tekrît, 217

Arbela, 221, 228

Arca, _see_ Arga

Arga, 338, 339 _note_^{1-40}

Argæus, Mount, 344, 345, 353-54, 355

Argæus the Lesser, 356

Arghana, the monastery of the Virgin, 328 _and note_^{1}

Arghana Ma’den, Khân of, 328 _note_^{1}, 329, 330 _note_^{1}

Ariarathia, 344 _note_^{1}

Arîmeh, village of, 20

Ark of Noah, 291-95

Arnâs, 317-18

Arslân Tepeh, mound of, 336, 337

Artemis, Temple of (Darius), 111

’Ashiḳ, the, Sâmarrâ, 235 _and note_^{4-39}, 242

Asia Minor, tower tombs, 37

Asikha, 111, 112

’Asîleh, 130, 132

Asshur, mound of, 221, 222;
temple of, 222-24, 229

Assyrian temples, construction, 223

Atargatis, pool of, 21-22

’Atâ’ut, pitch well at, 106

Atesh Gah of Jur, 246 _note_^{2}

Awânâ, _see_ Wâneh

Aywân Kisrâ, the, 181 _note_^{3}

Azakh, 302-3

Azbuzu, 336

’Azîzîyeh, 339 _note_^{1}, 344 _and note_^{1}, 345 _note_^{2}

Bâ’adrî, village of, 269-70, 273;
’Alî Beg, 273-74;
Sa’îd Beg, 274, 280;
the summer festival, 280;
underground village near, 299 _note_^{1}

Bâ’ashikâ, 265

Bâ Dibbeh, 309

Bâ Sebrîna, village of, 303 _and note_^{1-4};
monasteries of, 304-5;
construction in, 315

Bâb, 17, 18 _and note_^{3}

Bâb el Ḥadîd, Aleppo, 15

Bâb el Maḳâm, Aleppo, 14

Bâb el Wuṣṭânî, 191

Bâb eṭ Ṭilism, Baghdâd, 190

Bâb Kinnesrîn, the, Aleppo, 11

Bâbil, mound of, 168, 173

Babylon, 22, 164;
Palace of Nebuchadnezzar, work of excavation, 168-71;
temple of Ishtar and the Ishtar Gate, 171;
the Via Sacra, 171-72;
temple of Marduk, 172;
the theatre, 172-73;
mound of Bâbil, 173;
construction in, 223

Baghdâd, 3, 32, 46, 54;
the railway, 34, 356;
the road to, 94, 160, 167;
tomb of the Sitt Zobeideh, 100;
justice in, stories of Rejef Pasha, 175-77;
story of the cannon, 183, 192-93;
entry by the Ḥilleh road, 184;
the British Residency, 184;
the irrigation system, 185;
the new régime in, 185-87;
the Jews and military service, 187;
Manṣûr’s Round City, 187 _and note_^{1-88};
the Kâẓimein, 188-90, 198;
tomb of Sheikh Ma’rûf, 189-90;
Bâb eṭ Ṭilism, 190-91;
traces of the ancient city, 191;
the Bâb el Wuṣṭânî, 191;
Mustanṣirîyeh College, 191-92;
the Khâṣakî Jâmi’, 192;
Khân Orthma, 192;
the arsenal, 193-94;
mosque and tomb of ’Abdu’l Ḳâdir, 195;
a visit to the Naḳîb, 195-96;
the tekîyeh for pilgrims, 195-96;
Catholics in, 197;
road to Kerkûk, 206;
mosque of Manṣûr, 235 _note_^{2};
stories, 354

Baghdâdî, 102, 114

Baghût, 202

Bahurasîr, 181 _and note_^{2}

Baisampse, 38 _note_^{4}

Balad, village of, 205

Balîjah, mound of, 88

Bâlis, 18, 24 _note_^{2}

Bambyce, 22

Bar Hebræus, tomb of, 266

Barâd, tower tombs of, 38 _note_^{2}

Barbalissos, 24 _note_^{2}

Bardawî, mound of, the fortress, 136-37

Bârtallâ, 265, 267

Basilia, 110, 111, 112

Baṣrah, 95, 160, 163

Bathnæ, 18

Bathnæ in Osrhœne, 23

Baviân, valley of, 271-72;
rock carvings and rock cut chambers, 272 _note_^{1}, 275

Bazaar Euren, 345 _note_^{1}

Beilân Pass, 334

Beit el Khalîfah, Sâmarrâ, 237, 240 _and note_^{1-42}

Belesys, palace of, 18

Belias River, the, 54

Belîkh, the, 54, 61

Belisibiblada, 111, 113

Belḳâ, the, 303

Bergland Tulaba (Kiepert), 61 _and note_^{1}

Berœa, 10; acropolis of, 11

Bersiba (Munbayah), 44, 47

Berwân, island of, 101

Bethauna, 111, 114

Bêtmanîn, 293 _note_^{1}

Bey Punar, 343 _and note_^{1}

Beyrout, 4; vilayet of, 7

Bezabde, 296 _note_^{1}

Billânî, graves of, 52

Bîmâristân of El Malik eẓ Ẓâher, Aleppo, 14

Birejik, bridge at, 22-23;
tower tombs, 37;
distances from, 109

Birs Nimrûd, 173

Bisheh, 202

Biunan, 111, 112

Bombay, justice in, 95

Bonakhe, 111, 114

Bor, 356

Boran Dereh Keui, 343 _note_^{1}, 344

British Museum, Assyrian reliefs, 71;
the Black Obelisk, 223

Bulgurlû, 356

Buseirah, 111, 112;
excavations at, 73-75;
the ruined church, 75-76, 78

Buseyiḥ, Tell of, 79

Bustân, 79, 81

Buzâ’â, 18

Cadesh on the Orontes, 10

Cæciliana, 23, 24

Cæsarea, 302, 329;
caravan road, 335 _note_^{1};
effect of the massacre in, 352-53;
stories of, 354

Cairo, examples of leaf motives, 12 _note_^{2};
mosque of Ibn Ṭûlûn, 58, 246 _and note_^{3}

Calah (Nimrûd), 227, 228;
city of Calah, 229

Callinicum, 54, 111

Cappadocia, 345

Carchemish on the Euphrates, 10, 26, 31;
the northern mound, 33-34

Carduchian Mountains, 300

Chaghullah, 333 _note_

Chalcedon, œcumenical council of, 256

Chalcis, 10

Chaleb (Aleppo), 11

Charcha (Ammianus Marcellinus), 212 _note_^{1}

Chat, 27

Chatagh, 340

Chem Resh, valley of, 270

Cholak Ushagî, 333 _note_^{1}

Cilicia, the outbreak in, 302-3, 323, 331, 352

Circesium, 68, 74, 75, 109, 111, 112

Cloister of the Ark, 292

Comana, shrine of, 346;
inscriptions, 350 _note_^{1}

Constantine, Church of, 356

Constantinople, situation in, 73, 96, 186, 204, 217, 222, 227;
justice in, 162;
the museum, 229;
accession of Muḥammad V, 251-54, 359

Corsote, 82, 84, 111, 113

Ctesiphon, 200, 255;
(construction at), 153 _and note_^{1}, 154, 155, 156, 160, 180;
the road to, 174-75;
foundations, 179 _and note_^{1};
Mohammadan conquest, 180;
the White Palace of Chosroes, 181;
the hall, 240

Cunaxa, battle of, 200 _and note_^{1}

Cyrrhus, the ziareh of Khoros, 37 _note_^{3}

Dadar, 290

Dalanda, 341 _note_^{2}

Damascus, 16, 101;
the post road to, 117, 121

Dandaxina, 339 _note_^{1}

Daphne, 18

Dâr el ’Ammeh, the, 240 _note_^{1}

Dara, 301, 307

Dardes, the, 18

Daurîn, _see_ Dawwarîn

Dauser, Castle of, 50-51

Dawwarîn, the, 78, 79, 80;
junction with the Euphrates, 82

Deheb, valley of the, 17

Dehûk, 283

Deir, mutesarriflik of, 8;
boundary, 65;
the ferry, 70-71;
bazaars, 71;
the Ḳâḍî, 71-72;
passing events, 72-73;
the road to Buseirah, 108

Deir Bar Sauma, 303 _note_^{1}

Deir el ’Amr, 313 _note_^{1}

Deir el Kahf, 121 _note_^{2}

Deir el Khiḍr, 263 _note_^{1}

Deir Mâr Gabriel, 315

Deir Mâr Shim’ûn, 303 _note_^{1}

Deir ’Umar, 315, 316 _note_^{1}

Denshâwî, the incident at, 196

Dereh Gechid Chai, 327 _note_^{1}

Derendeh (Dalanda), 339 _and note_^{1}, 341 _and note_^{2}

Dersîm, the, 338, 340

Deveh Deresi, 340

Devil Worshippers, 269

Diacira, Castle of, 102 _note_^{1}

Dibseh, 18;
the ford at, 47

Diyârbekr, 32, 206, 250, 301, 317, 327 _note_^{1}, 329;
gates of, 13, 324 _and note_^{2};
the Vâlî at, 321;
the situation in, 321-24, 331;
arsenal, 324-25;
the Ulu Jâmi’, 325-26;
language in, 327

Domitian, palace of, on the Palatine, 180

Dujeil, the, 201 _and note_^{1}, 203;
lower course, 202

Dûmat ej Jandal, 156-57

Dûmat el Ḥîrah, 156-57

Dumeir, 118

Dûr, village of, 190 _note_^{2}, 214;
shrine of the Imâm Dûr, 214-16

Dûr ’Arabâyâ, 212 _note_^{1}

Dura, 111, 112, 113

Dura (Isidoris), 113

Dura Nicanoris, 111

Durnakh, 289

Edessa [now Urfah], 23, 24

Egypt, English rule in, 196

Ekrek, 339 _note_^{1}, 345

El ’Awâṣim, province of, 25

El Khiḍr, 263 _note_^{1}

El Malik eẓ Ẓâher, Medresseh of, 12

Elemenjik, the situation in, 338

Emergal, 345 _note_

Emîr Chiflik, 356

Ephesus, council of, 255 _note_^{1}

Ephesus, caravan road to, 335 _note_^{1}

Er Radâf (El ’Asîleh), 131

Ereglî, 353, 355, 357

Eṣ Ṣâliḥîn, mosque of, 13

Eskî Baghdâd, 212 _note_^{4}, 213

Eskî Serûj, 22 _note_^{2}

Eskishehr, 338 _note_^{1}

Eugenius, St., monastery of, 310-12

Euphrates, passages of the, 22-23, 24 _note_^{2}, 27-28, 31-32, 47;
waters of the, 35;
the Jezîreh and the Shâmîyeh, 60-61, 66, 77;
Julian’s march, 62;
the river at Wâdî Mâliḥ, 67;
below Deir, 73-74;
inundations, 79-82;
tribes on the, 81;
islands, 85-86;
the piers of the bridge at ’Ânah, 97;
’Ânah to Hît, 98;
landscape at ’Ânah, 101;
the road from Buseirah to ’Ânah, 108-9;
the division above Museiyib, 164 _and note_^{1};
bridge of boats near Kerbela, 167;
the Murad Su, 335;
tributaries, 342-43

Europus, 24 _note_^{2}, 33, 111

Evler, village of, 296

“Father of Asphalt,” the, 125

Festhaus, the, at Ḳal’at Shergat, 225

Fetḥah gorge, the, 220

Fḥemeh, village of, 99, 100

Finik, 296 _note_^{1}, 301;
castles, 297-98;
rock dwellings, 298-99

Firdaus, mosque of, Aleppo, 12-13

Firûzâbâd, Sassanian Palace of, 153, 156

Galabatha, 110, 111

Ga’rah, 118

Garârah, 183

Ga’rat ej Jemâl, 123, 124

Gelîyeh, village of, 306, 308

Gerik, village of, 290

Geurmuk, 290

Ghazil, the, 293 _note_^{1}

Ghirân (Kiepert), 52

Giddan, 111, 113

Gilead, the road to Moab, 303

Gök Su, the, 348

Göljik, 329, 330 _note_^{1}

Gordian, tomb of, 113

Görün, 339 _note_^{1}, 342 _note_^{1};
khân of, 342

Grê Pahn (Tell ’Arîḍ), 283

Great Zâb, the, 204 _note_^{3}, 228

Günesh, 343

Gurgurri Gate, Ḳal’at Shergat, 224

Ḥadîthah, ruins of, 99, 100 _and note_^{1}, 111, 114, 190

Ḥaleb (Aleppo), 10-11

Ḥalebîyeh, Castle of, 67

Ḥallâweh, ruins at, 47

Ḥammâm ’Alî, sulphur springs of, 230

Ḥandak, 302 _note_^{3}

Ḥaraglah, ruin of, 53-54, 54 _note_^{1}

Ḥarnik, 333 _note_^{1}

Ḥarrân (Carrhæ), 24 _note_^{2}

Ḥasanah, village of, carved relief, 287 _note_^{2}, 290-91, 294

Ḥasanîyeh, _see also_ Zâkhô, 287 _notes_^{1-2}, 293 _note_^{1}

Ḥassan Dâgh, 356

Ḥasua, the khân of, 175

Ḥâtim Ṭâi, Castle of, 306-8

Hatra, Parthian Palace at, 31;
work of Dr. Andrae, 222

Ḥaurân, the, tower tombs, 37

Havanda, mausoleum, 356

Ḥeizil Sû, the, 289, 293 _note_^{1}

Ḥejâz, 344

Heshtân, 293

Hierapolis, _see also_ Manbij, 10, 16, 20, 24;
the pool of Atargatis, 21;
mosque of ’Abdu’l Ḥamîd, 21-22;
history, 23, 24;
shrine of Sheikh ’Aḳil, 25-26

Ḥilleh, 164, 167

Hindîyeh swamp, the, 164-65;
canal, 164 _note_^{1};
the Nahr Hindîyeh, 164 _and note_^{1}

Ḥîrah castle, 141, 142 _and note_^{1}, 160

Ḥiṣn Keif, rock-hewn chambers, 299 _note_^{1}

Hît, the town of, 102, 104, 111, 114, 201 _note_^{1};
pitch wells, 104-6;
the minaret, 108;
distances from, 110;
women of, 116-17

Ḥöjneh, village of, 78

Ḥussein, mosque of, Aleppo, 12-13;
tomb of, Kerbela, 160

Ḥuweiṣilât, ruins of, 239, 242

Ibn Ḥanbal, tomb of, 188

Ibn Ṭûlûn, mosque of, Cairo, 58

Idicara (Ptolemy), 102 _note_^{1}, 111

Imâm Dûr, shrine of, 214-16

Imâm Yaḥyâ, tomb of, 259, 260

Irmez, 303 _note_^{1}

Irzî, 111, 113, 114;
ruins of, 49 _note_^{2}, 83-84;
bluff of, 82, 85

Is, 104 _note_^{1}, 111

Ishtar Gate, Babylon, 171

Island, 111, 114

Ispileh, 353 _note_^{2}

Ivrîz, gorge of, 357

Iz Oglu, mound of, 333 _note_^{1}, 335 _and note_^{2}

Izala, Mount, 301 _and note_^{1};
monastery of Mâr Augen, 310-17

Izannesopolis, 102 _note_^{1}, 110, 111, 114

Jabarîyeh, ruins of, 88, 111, 113

Ja’deh, hamlet of, 30

Jâmi’el Ḥelâwîyeh, the, Aleppo, 11

Jâmi’el Ḳaṣr, Baghdâd, 191 _note_^{2}

Jâmi’el Maḳâmât, Aleppo, 14

Jâmi’ esh Shaibîyeh, the, Aleppo, 12

Jebel ’Abdu’l ’Aziz, 62

Jebel Alḳôsh, 282-83

Jebel Beiḍâ, 62

Jebel Dehûk, 282-83

Jebel el Abyaḍ, ruined fortress, 285

Jebel el Ḥamrîn, the, 220-21, 243

Jebel el Ḥaṣṣ, 17-18

Jebel Ḥaurân, 131

Jebel Jûdî, 289

Jebel Maḳlûb, 266, 268

Jebel Munâkhir, 61, 62

Jebel Munkhar esh Sharḳî, 61

Jebel Muzâhir, the, 119

Jebel Sim’un, 273, 280

Jebel Sinjâr, the, 87, 275, 280, 301, 308

Jebel ’Uḳala, 61

Jedeideh, 63

Jelîb esh Sheikh, 124

Jemmah, mounds of, 79, 111, 112

Jerâblus, 24 _note_^{2}, 32, 33 _and note_^{1}

Jernîyeh, hill of, 43

Jerusalem, tomb of Absalom, 37 _note_^{5};
construction in, 223

Jezarân, village of, 270

Jezîreh, the, 295, 296 _note_^{1}, 297

Jezîret ibn ’Umar, 287 _note_^{2}, 296-97

Jibbeh, island of, 101

Jisr Manbij, 24 _note_^{2}

Jôf in Nejd, 144

Jonah, tombs of, 262

Jûdî Dâgh, ridge of, 289, 291 _note_^{1}, 293

Jûdî, Mount, the Cloister of the Ark, 291-95

Ḳâ’at ed Deleim, 85

Kadi Keui, 328 _note_^{1}

Ḳâdisîyah, battlefield of, 160, 201 _note_^{1}, 204 _note_^{5},
207 _note_^{1};
ruins of, 207-8, 210

Kahf ’Alî, 202

Kahf ez Zaḳḳ [Sheikh Ḥamri], 51-52

Ḳâim, town of, 208, 210;
tower of, 239

Ḳaindîjeh, 343 _note_^{1}

Ḳaiṣarîyeh, 334, 354, 355

Ḳal’ah Dâgh, plateau of the, 340

Ḳal’at Abu Rayâsh, 219 _note_^{1}

Ḳal’at Bulâk (Retâjah), 88, 111, 113-14

Ḳal’at ej Jedîd, pass at, 308-309, 309 _note_^{1}

Ḳal’at en Nejm, 23, 24 _note_^{2}, 39

Ḳal’at Ḥâtim Ṭâi, 309 _and note_^{1}

Ḳal’at Ja’bar, 44, 48, 51;
towers of, 49 _and notes_-50

Ḳal’at Khubbâz, 107

Ḳal’at Lûlû, Môṣul, 260

Ḳal’at Râfiḍah, 88

Ḳal’at Shergât, work of Dr. Andrae, 221, 222;
temple of Asshur, 222-23;
the fortifications, 224-26

Kalender Khân, 329

Kalender Koprüsi, 328 _note_^{1}

Kalka, 308

Ḳara Bel, the, 347, 350 _note_^{1}

Ḳara Dâgh, 357-58

Ḳara Kazâk, mound of, at Tell Aḥmar, 30

Ḳara Khân Chai, 327 _note_^{1}

Ḳarâbileh, island of, 92, 111, 114

Ḳaraḥiṣâr, 355

Ḳaramân, 357, 358

Ḳarkh, mound of, 212 _note_^{1}, 323

Ḳaraḳôsh, inscriptions, 264 _note_^{1};
the seven churches, 264;
Mâr Shim’ûn, 264-65;
churches of, 279

Ḳarḳîsîyâ (Circesium), 68, 74

Karnak, inscriptions at, 104 _note_^{1}

Kars, 63

Kâs i Fir’aun at Sâmarrâ, 235

Ḳâsim Khân, 330 _note_^{1}

Ḳaṣr ’Amej, 100, 118

Ḳaṣr el Abyaḍ, 121 _note_^{2}

Ḳaṣr et Tâj, Baghdâd, 191 _note_^{2}

Ḳaṣr Ghellî, rock carvings, 298

Ḳaṣr-i-Shîrîn, 156

Ḳaṣr Khubbâz, 118

Ḳasṭal, 121 _note_^{2}

Ḳâṭûl, 207 _and note_^{2}, 209

Ḳâṭûl-Nahrawân, the, 205 _note_^{5}

Kavak, _see_ Köpekli

Kayden Keui, 328 _note_^{1}

Ḳâyim, 85

Kayyik Debû, hamlet of, 35

Kâzimein, Shi’ah sanctuary, Baghdâd, 188-90, 194

Ḳdirân, 52

Kebeisah, 106, 107, 116-17, 117 _note_^{1}, 122;
sulphur springs, 118

Kefr Zeh, 315, 317-18

Keghvank, 330 _and note_^{1}

Kerbelâ, 100;
the road, 140, 206;
distances from, 142;
the caravan at, 143-44;
impressions, 159-60;
tomb of Ḥussein, 160;
shops, 161;
appointment of officials, 161-62;
the mutesarrif, 162;
the tower, 162;
the Hindîyeh swamp, 164-66;
pilgrims to, 166-67

Kerkûk, 251

Kernaz, 313 _note_^{1}

Kevak Euren, 342 _note_^{1}

Kezerik, inscriptions, 330

Khâbûr, the, 73, 74, 76, 112;
the ferry, 77, 78 _note_^{1};
tribes of the, 81;
valley of, 286, 287 _and note_^{2}, 288;
the bridge above Zâkhô, 289

Khabura, 111

Khâkh, ruins of, 317-19;
the Church of the Virgin, 319-20;
the robbery at, 320-22

Khân, 328 _note_^{1}

Khân, the (Kiepert), 65

Khân Keui, 333 _and note_^{1}

Khân el Wazîr, Aleppo, 13

Khân es Sabûn, Aleppo, 13

Khân eṭ Ṭarniyeh (Kiepert), 199 _note_^{1}

Khân ez Zebîb, 121 _note_^{3}

Khân Khernîna, 192 _note_^{2}, 219 _and note_^{2}

Khân Orthma, Baghdâd, 192

Khânûḥah, town of, 68

Kharabah ’Aleh, 313 _note_^{1}, 314

Khâranî, 121 _note_^{3}

Kharpût, 327;
plain of, 329-30;
the Castle, 330-31;
the panic in, 331-33

Khâṣakî Jâmi, Baghdâd, 192

Khâtûnyeh, 338 _note_^{1}

Khâtûnyeh Medresseh, the, 357-58

Khawarnaḳ, 141;
Castle of, 142, 160

Khawîjeh, the, 85, 205

Kheiḍir, _see_ Ukheiḍir

Kherâb, 135

Khirbet ed Dukhîyeh, 63

Khirbet Hadâwî, 63

Khmeiḍah, ruins of, 65, 66, 110, 111, 112

Khorsabâd, temple of Sargon, 223

Khubana, 110, 111

Khubbâz, Castle of, 86, 117-21, 127, 129

Ḳiḳân, mosque of, Aleppo, 11

Killîz, 32, 289

Kinik, 308

Kinnesrîn, _see_ Chalcis

Kirk Khân, massacre of, 334-35

Ḳizil Khân, 345 _note_^{1}

Kloster Ruine (Kiepert), 32

Kochannes, 255

Kôdakh, village of, 302 _note_^{3}

Kokur Ḳayâ, 347, 348

Koleh, 285

Kôleteh Dâgh, the, 345

Kolosina (Ptolemy), 99 _note_^{1}

Kömür Khân, 333 _note_^{1}, 335

Konia, 3, 352, 359

Köpekli, ruins of the Panagia, 345 _and note_^{4-46}

Kötü Ḳal’ah, village of, 341 _and note_^{1}

Kozan, massacre, 353

Ḳubbeh, village of, 30, 35

Ḳubbet es Ṣlebîyeh, 239

Ḳubrâ, 68

Ḳubûr ej Jebel, 62

Kûfah, Mohammadan town, 142, 160;
mosque of, 164

Ḳuleib, 41

Küpek Euren, 343 _and note_^{1}

Kurd Keui, 340

Kurdistân, mountain chains of, 265, 284, 285, 286

Kuro, island of, 99

Ḳuṣeir el Ḥallâbât, 121 _note_^{2}

Ḳusheir, the, 50

Ḳûyûnjik, mound of, 261-62

Lekweir, 240

Levandi Chai, 340

Levandiler, village of, 340

Levent, 340

Lubbâd, island of, 94, 96, 111, 114

Madaḳḳ eṭ Ṭabl, Sâmarrâ, 211

Madâin, 182

Ma’den Chai, the, 328 _note_^{1}, 329

Madlûbeh, ruin of, 106-107

Mahalech, peak of, 358

Maḥall es Ṣafṣâf, 48

Maḥârîz, 52

Maḥawîl, village and canal, 167

Maḥmûd Ghâzî, Castle of, 345 _and note_^{2}

Maḥmûdîyeh, 177

Ma’lathâyâ (Malthai), 287 _note_^{2}

Malaṭiyeh, 327;
the modern city, 335 _and note_^{1-36};
Old Malaṭiyeh, 337-38

Malthai, the Assyrian reliefs, 283-84

Malwîyeh, the, Sâmarrâ, 209 _and note_^{1}, 210

Ma’mûreh, asphalt beds and minaret, 106;
ruins, 127

Ma’mûret el ’Azîz, vilayet of, 330

Manbij [Hierapolis], 18, 19;
ancient churches, 21, 22 _note_^{1};
history, 24-25

Mangâbeh, 26

Mangûb, 227

Manṣûr, founder of Kafiḳah, 54;
Round City of, 187 _and note_^{1-88};
mosque of, Baghdâd, 235 _note_^{2}

Mâr Ahudânî, Church of, 257

Mâr Augen, monastery of, 302 _note_^{1}, 310-12

Mâr ’Azîzîyeh at Kefr Zeh, 315, 317-18

Mâr Barsauma, 316 _note_^{2}

Mâr Behnâm, 262 _and note_^{1-63}, 263 _note_^{2}, 268 _and note_^{1}

Mâr Cosmo, 324 _note_^{1}

Mâr Dodo, 304-5

Mâr Gabriel of Kartmîn, 262 _note_^{1}, 314-16

Mâr Girjis, 258

Mâr Hôbel, 316 _note_^{2}

Mâr Ibrahîm, 316 _note_^{2}

Mâr Kyriakos at Arnâs, 317-18

Mâr Mattai, monastery of, 266;
story of Mâr Mattai, 267-68

Mâr Melko, 313 _and note_^{1-14}

Mâr Musa el Habashi, 316 _note_^{2}

Mâr Philoxenos, 316-17

Mâr Shim’ûn, Bâ Sebrîna, 303-4

Mâr Shim’ûn, 218, 259;
Ḳaraḳôsh, 264-65

Mâr Shim’ûn, Midyâd, 316 _note_^{2}

Mâr Sobo, 319

Mâr Tûmâ, 258 _and note_^{1-59}, 259 _note_^{1}, 260, 263 _note_^{2}

Mâr Yâ’ḳûb, Church of, Ṣalâḥ, 316-19

Mâr Yâ’ḳûb, monastery of, 272, 283

Marde, 301

Mardîn, 218, 301, 311, 353 _and note_^{2}

Mascas, the, 82

Ma’shûk, the, _see_ ’Ashiḳ, the

Masius Mount, 301

Masnik, 335 _note_^{2}

Mas’ûdîyeh, 41

Maxentius, basilica of, 180

Mazâr of Sultan ’Abdullah, 49 _note_^{1}

Mazâr of Sultan Selîm, 49 _note_^{1}

Mdawwî, mounds, 202

Mecca, 158;
the well Zemzem, 277

Medâin, 181 _note_^{2}

Medina, 158

Meiḍa, 62

Melekjân, 333 _note_^{1}

Melitene, 337 _and note_^{1}

Merrhan, 111, 113

Meskeneh, 24 _note_^{2};
the ferry, 47

Mesopotamia, antiquities of, 11;
fortified khâns, 121 _and note_^{2-22};
history, 156

Mespila-Nineveh, 287 _note_^{2}

Mezîzakh, 316 _note_^{1}

Mezreh, 330 _and note_^{2}, 331, _note_^{1}

Middo, 303 _note_^{1}

Midyâd, Mâr Philoxenos, 316-17

Midyâd, Ḳâimmaḳâm of the, 321

Môṣul, 70, 185, 206, 230-31, 265, 302;
the modern bridge, 237;
the situation in, 247-49;
the affair of 1st January 1909, 249-50;
murder of Sheikh Sayyid, 249-50;
the League of Mohammad formed, 250-51;
fall of ’Abdu’l Hamîd, 251-54;
the Church in, 254-57;
Church of Mâr Ahudânî, 257;
first recorded mosque, 259;
tomb of the Imâm Yaḥyâ, 259, 260;
the Ḳal’at Lûlû, 260;
the Sinjâr Gate, 260;
the Jews of, 260-61, 261 _note_^{1};
the high road, 284, 286, 287 _note_^{1}

Mshatta, Palace of, 152, 153

Mu’aẓẓam, village of, 188

Mudawwarah, ruin of, 48

Mügdeh, 341 _note_^{2}

Mughârah, 30, 35

Muḥammad ’Alî, tomb of, at Wâneh, 203

Mukbil, village of, 271

Mullah ’Alî Shehr, 341 _note_^{1}

Munbayah, mound of, 43-44;
basalt mills, 63

Munga’rah, Ḳishlâ el, 69

Murad Su, the, 335

Murrât, ruin of, 135

Museiyib, village of, 164, 166-67

Musheidah, 200;
the khân of, 199;
the Senîyeh, 201-2

Mustanṣirîyeh College, Baghdâd, 191-92

Mutawakkil, mosque of, Sâmarrâ, 209;
Palace of, 213

Nabagath on the Aburas, 109, 111, 112

Nahr el Ḳâim, the, 206-8

Nahrawân canal, 213 _and note_^{1}

Nahrwân, bridge of, 182

Naṣrîyeh canal, the, 167

Natârîyeh, 90-92

Nebî Ḥâshil, ziyârah of, 17

Nebî Yûnus, mound of, 262

Nebuchadnezzar, Palace of, work of excavation, 168-71

Nejd, 86, 217

Nejef, ruins, 160, 162

Neshabah tower, the, 49 _and note_^{1}

Nicephorium, 54, 62, 109, 110, 111

Nigdeh, Seljuk mosques, 356

Nimrûd, 224, 227;
mound of, 228-29

Nineveh, ruins of, 261-66;
story of Mâr Mattai, 267

Ninmala, island of, 85

Nisîbîn, 301

Nisibis, 301

Nu’mân ibn Mundhir, the castle of, 141, 142

Nûr ed Din, 262

Nurshak Dâgh, 342

Obbanes, 24 _note_^{2}

Olabus, 100 _note_^{1}, 111, 114

Old Meskeneh, 47

Opis, 200 _and note_^{1}, 204 _and note_^{5}

Ordasu, 336

Osdara, 339 _note_^{1}

Osherîyeh, 27

Osmândedelî, 339 _note_^{1}, 342 _and note_^{1}, 343 _and note_^{1}

Osrhœne, 23

Ozan, 339 _note_^{1};
tomb at, 340-41, 341 _note_^{1}

Palanga, 341 _note_^{1}

Palmyra, tower tombs of, 37

Parenk, 343 _note_^{1}

Parux Malkha, 102 _note_^{1}

Pehlevî, 305 _note_^{1}

Persia, justice in, 163-64

Persian Gulf, gun-running, 285

Phaliga, 109, 110, 111, 112

Phaliscum, 111, 112

Phathusa, 114

Phœnice-Finik, 296 _note_^{1}, 299

Physcus, the (Xenophon), 204 _note_^{5}

Polat Ushagha, 341 _note_^{1}

Pünoz, Khân of, 330 _note_^{1}

Rabâṭ, village of, 85

Rabbân Hormuzd, monastery of, 255, 281-82

Râfiḳah, history of, 54-55, 57

Raḥbah, 74

Raḥḥâlîyeh, oasis of, 134, 138;
water of, 136

Raḥḥâlîyeh-Shetâteh road, the, 136

Raḳḳah, 41, 46, 53, 65, 68, 111;
the ferry, 47;
history, 54-55, 158;
the modern Raḳḳah, 55;
shrines, 56 _and note_^{2};
Raḳḳah ware, 59-60, 75-76;
distances, 108-10;
the Baghdâd Gate, 135 _note_^{2}, 156

Ramâdî, 123, 176, 177

Rawâ, 86-87, 90-92, 94, 114

Retâjah (Ḳal’at Bulâḳ), 88

Rhabdium, 307, 309 _note_^{1}

Risür Chai, 297

Round City, Baghdâd, 187 _and note_^{1-88}

Rumeileh, 41

Sadîr, 141

Sagr, ruin, 202

Saiḥûn, the, 342, 348

St. Simeon Stylites, Church of, 11

Sajûr river, the, 23, 31;
the valley, 27

Ṣalâḥ, 314, 316-19

Salakûn, 303 _note_^{1}

Ṣâliḥîyeh, 78, 80, 82

Salonica, 4, 6, 227, 359;
the committee, 251;
the accession of Muḥammad V, 281

Saman, 340

Saman Keui, 338 _note_^{1}

Sâmarrâ, the mosque of, 58, 231-35, 243 _and note_^{1-46}, 246 _note_^{1};
ruins, 158, 188 _note_^{1};
Mohammadan ware, 204;
the Malwîyeh, 206, 209 _and note_^{1}, 210;
the choice of Mu’taṣim, 207 _note_^{2}, 209-10;
the bazaars, 208;
decline of, 208-9;
the minaret, 211, 235;
Madaḳḳ eṭ Ṭabl, 211;
the Kâs i Fir’aun, 235;
the palace of the ’Ashiḳ, 235 _and note_^{4-39}, 242;
Ṣlebîyeh, 237, 239, 242;
ruins of Ḥuweiṣilât, 239, 242;
Beit el Khalîfah, 240 _and note_^{1-42};
the Tell ’Alîj, 242-43;
Sâmarrâ ware, 243

Samosata, 33

Sapha, 296 _note_^{1}

Saphe, 296 _note_^{1}

Sapolar, 333 _note_^{1}

Sargon temple, Khorsabâd, 223

Sâreh, village of, 305;
the Church, 305-6

Sarî Khân, 353 _and note_^{2}

Sarifah (Chesney), 99 _note_^{1}

Sarvistân, 156

Sayyid Aḥmed ibn Hâshim, shrine of, 135

Sayyid Muḥammad, Mazâr of, 205

Scaphe (Ptolemy), 200 _note_^{1}

Scenæ, 22

Scenitæ, country of the, 22

Sefînet Nebî Nûh, 291-95

Seleucia on the Tigris, 10, 22, 109, 110, 179, 181 _note_^{1};
mounds of, 178

Semiramidis Fossa, 110, 111, 112

Serbes, 17

Serrîn, tower tombs of, 36-39

Shabyan, 330 _note_^{1}

Shahr, 346;
the temple-mausoleum, 348;
story of the massacre, 349-50

Shakh, village of, 296

Shammar, village of, 17

Sham’ûn, castle of, 139

Shandokh, 293, 295

Shawa Keui, 328 _note_^{1}

Shefâthâ (’Ain et Tamr), 156

Shehna Khân, 338 _note_^{1}

Sheikh ’Adî, shrine of, 269, 272;
description, 274-78;
account of the Saint, 278-79;
Yezîdî practices, 279-80

Sheikh Khuḍr, shrine of, 118

Sheikh Najar, 17

Sheikh Sîn, hill of, 43

Sheikh Ziyâd, 17

Shems ed Dîn, 43

Sheramîyeh, 220

Shetâteh, 86, 140;
Assyrian remains, 134, 135;
palms of, 139;
distances from, 142;
Bedouin of, 143

Shilbeh, 327 _note_^{1}

Shnâs, 212

Ṣiffîn, battlefield of, 50

Sinjâr Gate, Môṣul, 260

Sisara, _see_ Sisaurana

Sisaurana (Procopius), 309 _note_^{1}

Sitace, 200 _and note_^{1};
position, 204 _note_^{5}

Sitha, 111

Sitt Zobeideh, tomb of, 100, 190 _and note_^{2}, 215

Sivâs, 329, 342

Ṣlebîyeh, 237, 239, 242

Sophene, 331 _note_^{2}

Stambûl, 96, 230

Suleimânîyeh, 249, 250

Sumeikhah, village of, 203 _and note_^{1}

Sûs, ruins at, 99

Suvagen, 347

Syria, fortified khâns, 121 _and note_^{2}

Takhtalî, 345 _note_^{1}

Talas, 353 _note_^{2}, 355

Tarandah, 341 _note_^{3}

Tarmûr, village of, 327 _and note_^{1}

Tarsus, American College, 349

Tâṣir, 202

Taurus Mountains, 325, 327, 328

Tekrît, Ḥmeidî Beg ibn Farḥân, 216-17;
the road to Môṣul, 216-17;
the castle, 239

Telin, 342

Tell ’Abd ’Alî, 53

Tell Abu Thor, 98

Tell Aḥmar, 23, 24 _note_^{1}, 26-28, 34, 44;
the Hittite stela, 29-30

Tell ’Alîj, 242-43

Tell ’Arîḍ, 283

Tell Bada’ah, 28 _note_^{1}

Tell Batnân, 17

Tell Bshairah, 202

Tell ech Cha’bî, 80

Tell edh Dhahab, 204, 205

Tell el ’Abr, 31

Tell el Afrai, 48-49

Tell el Banât, 41

Tell el Ghânah, 28 _note_^{1}

Tell el Ga’rah, 43

Tell el Hajîn, 81

Tell el Ḥâl, 17

Tell el Kraḥ, 78

Tell el Kumluk, 31

Tell esh Sha’ir, 65, 79

Tell eẓ Ẓahir, 43

Tell Gayârah, 226, 227

Tell Ghazab, 204

Tell Hir, 204

Tell Jifneh, 47

Tell Kobbîn, mound and village, 289

Tell Maḥmûd, 333 _note_^{1}

Tell Manjûr, 204

Tell Meraish, 54

Tell Murraibet, 47, 63

Tell Sheikh ’Arûd, 44

Tell Sheikh Ḥassan, 44

Tell Simbal, 81

Thamânîn (Heshtan), 293 _and note_^{1}

Thapsacus on the Euphrates, 18, 22, 24, 33, 47

Thelailah, 302 _note_^{3}

Thelda, 111, 113

Themail, castle of, 86;
mound of, 129-30

Thilaticomum, 23

Thillada Mirrhada, 110, 111, 112

Thilutha, island Castle of, 98

Tigris, the, junction with the Euphrates, 164;
in flood, 178, 226;
the guffahs, 179;
bridges on, 183-84;
the ṣidd, 198-99;
the old bed, 201, 204;
the Dujeil, 201;
the Khawîjeh, 205;
the Jezîreh, 205;
the ferry, 205-6, 302 _note_^{3};
the keleks, 206;
the Nahr el Ḳâim, 206-7;
the bazaars of Sâmarrâ, 208;
bridge piers near Jezîret ibn ’Umar, 297;
castles of Finik, 297-99;
crossing at the Ṭûr ’Abdîn, 300-301;
source, 329

Tikmin, 342

Tilbês, island of, 98

Tîmûr, 316

Tîrhân district, the, 209

Tiyâna, village of, 79

Tiyârî, peaks of, 293

Tokat, 329

Tokhma Su, the, 339 _note_^{1}, 340, 341 _note_^{2}, 342-43

Tolek village, 327 _note_^{1}

Tomarza, 345

Tomisa-Iz Oglu, 339 _note_^{1}

Tozeli, 341 _note_^{1}

Tripoli (African) tower tombs, 37

Tsamandos, 345 _and note_^{2}

Tuba, 121 _note_^{3}

Tulkhum, 328 _note_^{1}

Ṭûr ’Abdîn, 262 _note_^{1}, 299, 300-302;
absence of streams, 303;
Mar Shim’ûn, 303-4;
construction in, 304-5;
monasteries of the, 310-17

Turkey, use of the vote in, 19-20

Tutli Keui, 333 _note_^{1}

Uch Keui, 327 _note_^{1}

’Uglet Ḥaurân, 101-2

’Ukâẓ, 129

’Ukbarâ, 201 _note_^{1};
mounds of, 202 _and note_^{1};
position, 203 _note_^{1}

Ukheiḍir, the journey to, 86, 88, 100, 131, 140, 141, 142;
the Benî Ḥassan, 107;
a first sight of, 140-41;
water supply, 142, 150;
architecture, 143-44, 219;
inhabitants of, 144-45;
Palace of ---- plans, 146-47;
architecture, 147-54;
decoration, 154-55;
date of the building, 155-58

Ulu Jâmi’, Diyârbekr, 325-26

Ulu Jâmi’, Malaṭiyah, 338

Umm Rejeibah, 67, 70, 111, 112

Urfah, 23, 32;
caves at, 40

Useden (Kiepert), 306

Useh Dereh, 306, 308, 309, 310, 313

Vân, 3, 255

Vân, Lake, 218, 293

Wâdî ’Ain Sifneh, the, 271

Wâdî Aswad (Chem Resh), valley of, 270

Wâdî Burdân, 131-32

Wâdî el ’Asibîyeh, 133

Wâdî Fâḍîyeh, 101

Wâdî Ḥajlân, the, 101

Wâdî Ḥaurân, 118, 131

Wâdî Lebai’ah, 131, 141, 142, 150

Wâdî Mâliḥ, 66, 67

Wâdî Muḥammadî, 124, 125

Wâdî Themail, 129

Wâneh, village of, tomb of Muḥammad ’Alî, 203 _and note_^{1}

Wardâna, village of, 26

Wâsiṭ, 159

Weldeh Country, the, 43, 47, 51

Werdî, 78, 81-83, 85

Werdî-Irzî, 113

Werdîyeh, the, 82

White Palace of Chosroes, 181 _and note_^{3}

Wîzeh, 132

Yaḥyâ el Barmakî, tomb of, 56

Yamachlî, 353 _note_^{2}

Yazi Keui, 341, 342

Yeni Khân, 355

Yezîdî villages, 269

Za’ferân, 286

Zâkhô, position, 286-87, 287 _note_^{2};
grave of the Dominican Soldini, 287-88

Za’khurân, 321-22

Zamantî Su, the, 344

Zeitha, 79, 111-13

Zeitha-Jemma, 113

Zelebîyeh, fortress of, 67-68, 110, 111, 112

Zemzem, the well, at Mecca, 277

Zenobia, fortress of, 68

Zeugma (Birejik), the, 109, 110

Ziyârah of Uweis el Ḳaranî, 56

_Richard Clay & Sons, Limited, London and Bungay._

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FOOTNOTES:

[1] It is dated in the year 545 A.H., _i. e._ A.D. 1150.

[2] The Persian influence had probably filtered through Egypt, for similar leaf motives are to be found in Cairo, for example in a fine bit of woodwork in the Museum: Herz Bey, _Catalogue Raisonné_, fig. 24. The prototype must be looked for in the plaster decorations of Ibn Ṭûlûn.

[3] M. Saladin believes this entrelac to be of Damascene origin. _Manuel d’Art Musulman_, i. p. 115.

[4] Ed. Reinaud, p. 267. He wrote in A.D. 1321.

[5] Anabasis, Bk. I. ch. iv, 10.

[6] _Zur antiken Topographie der Palmyrene_, p. 31.

[7] Mr. Hogarth also noticed that Bâb is marked out of its true place: _Annual of the British School at Athens_, XIV. p. 185.

[8] Plutarch: _In Crass_.

[9] Sachau saw it: _Reise in Syrien und Mesopotamien_, p. 148.

[10] Ed. de Goeje, p. 162. He wrote in A.D. 864.

[11] Manbij is the name used in literary Arabic, but it is noticeable that in the colloquial the word approaches more nearly to the earliest form, being pronounced Bumbuj.

[12] Eskî Serûj according to Chapot: _La frontière de l’Euphrate_, p. 306.

[13] _Geography_, Bk. XVI. ch. i. 27.

[14] Ritter: _Erdkunde_, Vol. VII. p. 961.

[15] Procopius makes the same observation: _De Bell. Per._, II. 20.

[16] It is so given in the Antonine Itinerary: Hierapoli--Thilaticomum--Bathnas--Edissa.

[17] Ammianus Marcellinus, Bk. XXIII. ch. ii. 7.

[18] Chapot, _op. cit._ p. 281.

[19] Chapot believes that the passage was effected at a point north of Cæciliana, which would fit in with Tell Aḥmar: _op. cit._ p. 254, note 5.

[20] Mr. Hogarth suggests that the Abbess Ætheria crossed at Tell Aḥmar on her way to Edessa: _loc. cit._ p. 183.

[21] Birejik and the Tell Aḥmar passage (whatever may have been its ancient name) and Thapsacus do not exhaust the number of recorded routes, for Chosroes, in his first expedition against Justinian, crossed at Obbanes, somewhere about the modern Meskeneh, and on his third expedition he built a bridge of boats near Europus, which is perhaps the modern Jerâblus. (Mr. Hogarth doubts the accepted identification of Jerâblus with Europus: _Annals of Arch. and Anthrop._, Vol. II. p. 169.) During the Mohammedan period other points are mentioned. Ibn Khurdâdhbeh, writing in the ninth century, makes the road from Aleppo to Babylon cross at Bâlis, the ancient Barbalissos (ed. de Goeje, p. 74), but Iṣṭakhrî, a hundred years later, says that Bâlis, though it was once the Syrian port on the Euphrates, had fallen into decay since the days of Seif ed Dauleh, and was little used by merchants (ed. de Goeje, p. 62). In the twelfth century, and perhaps earlier, its place had been taken by Ḳal’at en Nejm, where Nûr ed Dîn, who died in 1145, built a great fortress, famous during the wars against the Crusaders. The bridge there was called Jisr Manbij (“the bridge of Manbij”), but it cannot have been constructed by Nûr ed Dîn, for Ibn Jubeir, writing about the year 1185 a description of his journey from Ḥarrân (Carrhae) to Manbij, says that he “crossed the river in small boats, lying ready, to a new castle called Ḳal’at en Nejm” (Gibb Memorial edition, p. 248). In Yâḳût’s day (circa 1225) the caravans from Ḥarrân to Syria always crossed here.

[22] Ammianus Marcellinus, Bk. XXIII. ch. ii. 6.

[23] _The Buildings of Justinian_ (Palest. Pilgrims’ Text Society), p. 66.

[24] A few of these may have preserved a certain importance in a later age: Tell el Ghânah, directly to the east of Tell Aḥmar, has been conjectured to be Thilaticomum (possibly incorrectly: Regling, _Beiträge zur alten Geschichte_, 1902, Vol. I. p. 474) and Tell Bada’ah to be Aniana, the first being mentioned in the Antonine Itinerary and the second by Ptolemy.

[25] Mr. Hogarth (at whose request I visited Tell Aḥmar) has published the carved slabs and the stela in the _Annals of Archæology and Anthropology_, Vol. II. No. 4. He saw them when he was at Tell Aḥmar in 1908.

[26] Jerâblus or Jerâbîs, the names are used indiscriminately. The former is thought by Nöldeke to be an Arabic plural of Jirbâs (mentioned by Yâḳût as opposite Ḳinnesrin, Dictionary, Vol. II. p. 688) and the latter as Arabicized from Europus.

[27] The inscription is given by Pognon: _Inscriptions de la Mésopotamie_, p. 17. The tomb was visited by Oppenheim, and is mentioned by him in _Tell Halaf_ (1st number, 10th year of Der alte Orient), and in his _Griechische und lateinische Inschriften_. (_Byzantinische Zeitschrift_, 1905, p. 7.)

[28] Oppenheim thought it was the end of a sarcophagus, but Pognon’s guide climbed into the upper chamber and found it to be nothing but a block of stone closing the entrance.

[29] For the cyborium tomb, see Heisenburg: _Grabeskirche und Apostelkirche_, Vol. I. ch. xvi.

[30] A photograph of the fourth, the Ziareh of Khoros at Cyrrhus, was published by Chapot in _Le Tour du Monde_, April 8, 1905, p. 162.

[31] Mylasa: published by the Dilettanti Society; Tripoli: _Nouvelles Archives des Missions_, Tome XII. fas. 1; Dana: De Vogüé, _La Syrie Centrale_, plate 78.

[32] Tomb of Absalom, Jerusalem.

[33] Gereme: Rott, _Kleinasiatische Denkmäler_, p. 171; El Bârah: De Vogüé, _op. cit._ pl. 75.

[34] M. Cumont’s monuments are of this type and I have seen a fine example at Barâd in N. Syria, also as yet unpublished except for a photograph given by me in _The Desert and the Sown_, p. 287.

[35] Maden Sheher: published by Sir W. Ramsay and myself in _The Thousand and One Churches_, p. 230.

[36] The name which has been suggested for the site is Baisampse, a place mentioned by Ptolemy. There are a considerable number of cut stones on the mound near the village.

[37] It was re-copied by Pognon and published by him in _Inscrip. de la Mésopotamie_, p. 82. The similarity between some of the characters in the two inscriptions is striking.

[38] It appears in the extreme right-hand top corner of his Fig. 22, _Inschrif. aus Syrien und Mesopot_.

[39] I could not reconcile the topography here with Kiepert’s map. He marks a northern tower, which he calls Nesheib (doubtless my Neshabah) and places there the Mazâr of Sultan ’Abdullah. He has a second tower further to the south-east, and finally the castle itself. The second tower is non-existent, or else it represents the minaret in the castle. The only mazâr which I saw or heard mentioned is that of Sultan Selîm, a small modern building between Neshabah and the castle.

[40] It resembles the tower tombs at Irzî, which will be described later.

[41] This is Abu’l Fidâ’s account, ed. Reinaud, p. 277. He wrote in A.D. 1321. Yâḳût, a century earlier, gives the same story.

[42] Quoted by Ritter, _Erdkunde_, Vol. X. p. 241.

[43] Ainsworth believed this to be the site of Benjamin of Tudela’s Jewish settlement (_Euphrates Expedition_, Vol. I. p. 269), and he speaks of a monastic ruin here.

[44] It is so described in his map.

[45] Sachau thought that Ḥaraglah was of Hellenistic origin (_Reise in Syrien und Mesopotamien_, p. 245); Sarre believes that it may be Parthian, and the circular outer fortification gives colour to the suggestion (_Zeitschr. der Gesell. für Erdkunde zu Berlin_, 1909, No. 7).

[46] Sachau (_op. cit._ p. 243) gives the inscription, and my copy tallied with his.

[47] Just as the first mosque in Cairo, that of ’Amr, was built entirely on columns taken from earlier buildings, Muḳaddasî describes one of the Raḳḳah mosques as ; it would be satisfactory to imagine that he referred to the columned arcades of the mosque round the square minaret, but the phrase cannot reasonably be twisted into that or any other meaning. The square minaret is the ancient Syrian tower type; Thiersch has recently published an exhaustive study of it in his _Pharos_.

[48] I saw traces of two such arcades on the E., N. and W. sides of the court, and, judging from the vestiges that remain, the arcades must have been three deep to the south. The bricks of the vanished arcades have been dug out and carried away for building purposes. The outer walls are so much ruined that I could not determine the position of the gates with certainty.

[49] Professor van Berchem has published the inscription in his _Arabische Inschriften_, a chapter appended to the work of Professor Sarre and Dr. Herzfeld entitled _Reise in Euphrat-und Tigris-Gebiet_. But the publication has appeared too late for me to do more than refer to it.

[50] M. Viollet has published a short description of these ruins (_Publications de l’Académie des Inscrip. et Belles-Lettres_, 1909, Vol. XII. part 2). He believes the palace to have been erected by Hârûn er Rashîd.

[51] I expect that this is Sachau’s Bergland Tulaba--see Kiepert’s map.

[52] Bk. XXIII. ch. iii. 8.

[53] It was visited and planned by Sarre and Herzfeld in 1907; Sarre, _Reise in Mesopotamien_, in the _Zeitschrift der Gesch. für Erdkunde zu Berlin_, 1909, No. 7, p. 429. Sarre pronounces the greater part of the ruins to date from the time of Justinian.

[54] Ibn Ḥauḳal is, I think, the first to speak of it. Idrîsî says that it had busy markets and that much traffic went through it. They wrote respectively in the tenth and twelfth centuries.

[55] _Zur antiken Topographie der Palmyrene_, p. 39.

[56] The reference is not, however, certain: Moritz, _op. cit._ p. 35.

[57] Sachau travelled up the left bank of the Khâbûr, and should therefore have crossed the course of the canal, but he makes no mention of it.

[58] I should conjecture that on the Euphrates as on the Tigris the disappearance of the settled population dates from the terrible disaster of the Mongol invasion.

[59] I looked carefully for any trace of a big canal opposite Ṣâliḥîyeh and saw none.

[60] _Anabasis_, Bk. I. ch. 5, 9.

[61] With the doubtful contribution made by Ammianus Marcellinus to the question, I have dealt in the Appendix to this chapter.

[62] _Amm. Mar._, Bk. XXIV. ch. i. 6.

[63] Ed. de Goeje, p. 233.

[64] Ed. Reinaud, p. 286.

[65] Quoted by Ritter, Vol. XI. p. 717.

[66] De Beylié: _Prome et Samarra_, p. 68. See, too, Viollet’s memoir presented to the Acad. des Inscrip. et B.-Lettres, quoted above. He, too, was shown the fragment of Assyrian relief and gives an illustration of it, for which reason I do not trouble to publish my photograph.

[67] Pognon: _Inscriptions mandaïtes des coupes de Khouabir_.

[68] Chesney notices that the ruins of the old town lie on the left bank below the present ’Ânah. Quoted by Ritter, Vol. XI. p. 724.

[69] It is, I suppose, Chesney’s Sarifah, which has been conjectured to be the Kolosina of Ptolemy: Ritter, Vol. XI. p. 730.

[70] These ruins give additional weight to Ritter’s suggestion that Ḥadîthah was the Parthian station of Olabus: Vol. XI. p. 731. The Arab town of Ḥadîthah is first mentioned by Ibn Khurdâdhbeh, ed. de Goeje, p. 74.

[71] Julian crossed the Euphrates at Parux Malkha, which cannot be far from Baghdâdî, and captured the castle of Diacira. This castle must have stood at the southern end of the great bend made by the Euphrates below Baghdâdî. Chesney saw the ruins of a fortress there. It is perhaps Ptolemy’s Idicara and the Izannesopolis of Isidorus: Ritter, Vol. XI. p. 737.

[72] Herodotus mentions the bitumen wells and calls the town Is. It has been identified with the Ihi of the Babylonian inscriptions, the Ahava of Ezra, and with the Ist from which a tribute of bitumen was brought to Thothmes III, according to an inscription at Karnak.

[73] Yâḳût mentions Kebeisah as the oasis four miles from Hît upon the desert road. There are, he says, a number of villages there, the inhabitants of which live in the extreme of poverty and misery, by reason of the aridity of the surrounding waste.

[74] The central division wall in the long south chamber is a later addition.

[75] Described by Choisy: _L’Art de bâtir chez les Byzantins_, p. 31.

[76] For example Ḳasṭal (Brünnow and Domaszewski: _Provincia Arabia_, Vol. II. pl. xliv.); Ḳaṣr el Abyaḍ (de Vogüé: _La Syrie Centrale_, Vol. I. p. 69); Deir el Kahf, founded in A.D. 306 (Butler: _Ancient Architecture in Syria_, Section A, Part II. p. 146); Ḳuṣeir el Ḥallâbât, dated A.D. 213 (ditto, p. 72); barracks at Anderîn, dated A.D. 558 (ditto, Section B, Part II. pl. viii.).

[77] Ṭuba with a triple court (Musil: _Ḳuṣeir ’Amra_, Vol. I. p. 13); Kharânî (ditto, p. 97); Khân ez Zebîb (_Provincia Arabia_, Vol. II. p. 78).

[78] The whole area of ruins is known as Kherâb = ruin.

[79] It is not necessarily so late, for the Baghdâd Gate at Raḳḳah has the same arch, and it is certainly earlier.

[80] See Rothstein: _Die Dynastie der Lakhmiden in al Ḥîra_, p. 25. He gives reasons for believing that the art of writing Arabic was first practised at Ḥîrah. The population was largely Christian (the ’Ibâd of the Arab historians); Ḥîrah was the seat of a bishopric, and frequent allusion is made to churches and monasteries in and near the town.

[81] Meissner: “Ḥîra und Khawarnaḳ”, _Sendschriften der D. Orient Gesell._, No. 2.

[82] I have already published the plan in the _Hellenic Journal_ for 1910, Part I., p. 69, in an article on the vaulting system of the palace. Ukheiḍir was visited in the year 1907 by M. Massignon, though this fact was unknown to me until I returned to England in July 1909. He has published an account of it, together with a sketch plan made under circumstances of great difficulty, in the _Bulletin de l’Acad. des Inscr. et Belles-Lettres_ of March 1909, in the _Gazette des Beaux Arts_ of April 1909, and in the _Mémoires de l’Institut français du Caire_, vol. xxviii. (The last named has not yet appeared, but he has been so kind as to let me see an advance copy.) Neither to M. Massignon nor to me belongs the honour of discovery; an unknown Englishman had visited the palace in the eighteenth century, and his brief report is given by Niebuhr (_Reisebeschreibung_, vol. ii., p. 225, note): “Ich habe in dem Tagebuch eines Engländers, der von Haleb nach Basra gereist war, gefunden, dass er 44 Stunden Südfost nach Osten von Hit, eine ganz verlassene Stadt in der Wüste angetroffen habe, wovon die Mauer 50 Fuss hoch und 40 Fuss dick war. Jede der vier Seiten hatte 700 Fuss, und in der Mauer waren Thürme. In dieser Stadt oder grossem Castell, findet man noch ein kleines Castell. Von eben dieser verlassenen Stadt hörte ich nachher, dass sie von den Arabern El Khader genannt werde, und nur 10 bis 12 Stunden von Meshed Ali entfernt sei.” I cannot feel any doubt that the “forsaken town” referred to in the diary, the existence of which was confirmed by the Arabs, who spoke of it to Niebuhr under the name of Khader, is our Ukheiḍir. So far as I have been able to discover, the nameless Englishman was the first modern traveller to visit the site.

[83] I wish to call special attention to the presence of this construction at Ctesiphon because Dr. Herzfeld has stated erroneously that it does not exist in Sassanian buildings. (_Der Islâm_, vol. i. part ii. p. 111.)

[84] The name Ukeidir can have no connection with the name Ukheiḍir. The two words are differently spelt in Arabic.

[85] The history of Mesopotamian rivers is exceedingly complicated owing to the frequency with which they change their beds. Mr. Le Strange (_Lands of the Eastern Caliphate_, p. 70 _et seq._) believes that the Nahr Hindîyeh, which is probably identical with the ’Alḳâmî of Ḳudâmah and Mas’ûdî, was considered in the tenth century to be the main stream of the Euphrates, though even at that time it was not so broad as the Ḥilleh branch. Writing in 1905 Mr. Le Strange speaks of the Ḥilleh branch as being undoubtedly the main stream in modern times, but in 1909 nearly all the water, as I shall describe, flowed down the Kûfah branch (the Hindîyeh canal) and the Ḥilleh branch lay dry all the winter. This, however, will, it is to be hoped, be rectified by the new irrigation schemes on which Sir William Willcocks is at present engaged.

[86] It is known as the ’Amalîyeh Mukallifeh.

[87] This applies, I believe, only to lands leased from the State, arḍîyeh amîrîyeh.

[88] The foundations were, however, traced by Dieulafoy, who has indicated them in his plan: _L’Art ancien de la Perse_, Vol. V. When he first visited Ctesiphon, the east wall of both wings and all the vault of the hall were perfect.

[89] It was founded by Anushirwân the Just after he had taken Antioch of Syria in 540. He transported the inhabitants of Antioch to the Tigris and settled them opposite Seleucia in a new city which is said to have been built on the plan of Antioch. Le Strange: _Lands of the Eastern Caliphate_, p. 33.

[90] _Sûrah_, XIV. vs. 46. The Arabs called the double town Medâin, the cities, but Ṭabarî uses the name for the eastern city and describes the western as Bahurasîr. I have abridged Ṭabarî’s account of the siege from the text of de Goeje’s edition, Vol. V., Prima Series, under the years 15 and 16 A.H.

[91] The White Palace is not represented by the existing ruin on the east bank, which was known to the Arabs as Aywân Kisrâ, the hall of Chosroes. The White Palace was also on the left bank, but about a mile higher up. It had disappeared by the beginning of the tenth century. Le Strange, _op. cit._, p. 34.

[92] Bricks stamped with Nebuchadnezzar’s name have been found along the quays, and there was a flourishing Persian Baghdâd on the west bank of the Tigris towards the end of the Sassanian period. The chief authority for the history of Baghdâd is Mr. Le Strange’s admirable book, _Baghdâd during the Abbâsid Caliphate_, which has made it possible to understand the very complicated topography of the town.

[93] It is perhaps unnecessary to explain that the Shî’ahs regard ’Alî ibn abî Tâlib, who lies buried at Nejef, as the only lawful khalif. He and his eleven immediate heirs are known as the Twelve Imâms, the twelfth being Muḥammad III al Mahdî, who is credited with having been concealed in a cave at Sâmarrâ whence he will emerge at the end of days and re-establish the true faith.

[94] The whole argument is given by Le Strange, _Baghdâd_, p. 160 _et seq._, and pp. 351-2.