Chapter I: Front Matter

AN

AMERICAN GIRL ABROAD.

BY

ADELINE TRAFTON.

_ILLUSTRATED_

_BY MISS L. B. HUMPHREY._

BOSTON:
LEE AND SHEPARD, PUBLISHERS.
NEW YORK:
LEE, SHEPARD AND DILLINGHAM.

Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1872,
BY LEE AND SHEPARD,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

Electrotyped at the Boston Stereotype Foundry,
No. 19 Spring Lane.

I DEDICATE

This Record of Pleasant Days

TO MY FATHER,

REV. MARK TRAFTON.

BOOKS FOR "OUR GIRLS."

THE GIRLHOOD SERIES.

By Popular Authors.

* * * * *

AN AMERICAN GIRL ABROAD.

By ADELINE F. TRAFTON. 16mo, cloth, illustrated. $1.50.

One of the most bright, chatty, wide-awake books of travel ever written. It abounds in information, is as pleasant reading as a story book, and full of the wit and sparkle of "An American Girl" let loose from school and ready for a frolic.

ONLY GIRLS.

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THE DOCTOR'S DAUGHTER.

By SOPHIE MAY, Author of "Our Helen," "The Asbury Twins," &c. 12mo, cloth, illustrated. $1.50.

"A delightful book, original and enjoyable," says the _Brownville Echo_.

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SALLY WILLIAMS.

=The Mountain Girl.= By Mrs. EDNA D. CHENEY, Author of "Patience," "Social Games," "The Child of the Tide," &c. 12mo, cloth, illustrated. $1.50.

Pure, strong, healthy, just what might be expected from the pen of so gifted a writer as Mrs. Cheney. A very interesting picture of life among the New Hampshire hills, enlivened by the tangle of a story of the ups and downs of every-day life in this out-of-the-way locality. The characters introduced are quaintly original, and the adventures are narrated with remarkable skill.

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=Or, do your best and leave the rest.= By a Popular Author. 16mo, illus. $1.50.

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RHODA THORNTON'S GIRLHOOD.

By Mrs. MARY E. PRATT. 16mo, cloth, illustrated. $1.50.

A hearty and healthy story, dealing with young folks and home scenes, with sleighing, fishing and other frolics to make things lively.

_The above six volumes are furnished in a handsome box, for $9.00, or sold separately by all booksellers, or sent by mail, postpaid, on receipt of price by_

LEE AND SHEPARD, Publishers, Boston.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

I.

"At night we descended into the depths of the steamer
to worship with the steerage passengers." FRONTISPIECE.

II.

"A dozen umbrellas were tipped up; the rain fell
fast upon a dozen upturned, expectant faces." 57

III.

"At the word of command they struck the most
extraordinary attitudes." 157

IV.

"Frowsy, sleepy, cross, and caring nothing
whatever for the sun, moon, or stars, we stood
like a company of Bedlamites, ankle deep in
the wet grass upon the summit." 176

V.

"Evidently the little old woman is going a
journey." 196

VI.

"Together we stared at him with rigid and severe
countenances." 240

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

ABOARD THE STEAMER.

We two alone.--"Good by."--"Are you the captain of this
ship?"--Wretchedness.--The jolly Englishman and the
Yankee.--A sail!--The Cattle-man.--The Jersey-man
whose bark was on the sea.--Church services under
difficulties.--The sweet young English face.--Down
into the depths to worship.--"Beware! I stand by
the parson."--Singing to the fishes.--Green Erin.--One
long cheer.--Farewell, Ireland. 13

CHAPTER II.

FIRST DAYS IN ENGLAND.

Up the harbor of Liverpool.--We all emerge as
butterflies.--The Mersey tender.--Lot's
wife.--"Any tobacco?"--"Names, please."--St.
George's Hall.--The fashionable promenade.--The
coffee-room.--The military man who showed the
purple tide of war in his face.--The railway
carriage.--The young man with hair all
aflame.--English villages.--London.--No place
for us.--The H. house.--The Babes in the
Wood.--The party from the country.--We are taken
in charge by the Good Man.--The Golden
Cross.--Solitary confinement.--Mrs. B.'s at last. 27

CHAPTER III.

EXCURSIONS FROM LONDON.

Strange ways.--"The bears that went over to
Charlestown."--The delights of a runaway without
its dangers.--Flower show at the Crystal
Palace.--Whit-Monday at Hampton Court.--A queen
baby.--"But the carpets?"--Poor Nell Gwynne.--Vandyck
faces.--Royal beds.--Lunch at the King's Arms.--O
Music, how many murders have been committed in thy
name!--Queen Victoria's home at Windsor.--A new
"house that Jack built."--The Round Tower.--Stoke
Pogis.--Frogmore.--The Knights of the Garter.--The
queen's gallery.--The queen's plate.--The royal
mews.--The wicker baby-wagons.--The state equipages. 43

CHAPTER IV.

SIGHT-SEEING IN LONDON.

The Tower.--The tall Yankee of inquiring mind.--Our
guide in gorgeous array.--War trophies.--Knights
in armor.--A professional joke.--The crown
jewels.--The room where the little princes were
smothered.--The "Traitor's Gate."--The Houses of
Parliament.--What a throne is like.--The
"woolsack."--The Peeping Gallery for
ladies.--Westminster Hall and the law courts.--The
three drowsy old women.--The Great Panjandrum
himself.--Johnson and the pump.--St.
Paul's.--Wellington's funeral car.--The Whispering
Gallery.--The bell. 55

CHAPTER V.

AWAY TO PARIS.

The wedding party.--The canals.--New Haven.--Around
the tea-table.--Separating the sheep from the
goats.--"Will it be a rough passage?"--Gymnastic
feats of the little steamer.--O, what were officers
to us?--"Who ever invented earrings?"--Dieppe.--
Fish-wives.--Train for Paris.--Fellow-passengers.--
Rouen.--Babel.--Deliverance. 68

CHAPTER VI.

THE PARIS OF 1869.

The devil.--Cathedrals and churches.--The Louvre.--Modern
French art.--The Beauvais clock, with its droll, little
puppets.--Virtue in a red gown.--The Luxembourg
Palace.--The yawning statue of Marshal Ney.--Gay life
by gas-light.--The Imperial Circus.--The Opera.--How
the emperor and empress rode through the streets after
the riots.--The beautiful Spanish woman whose face was
her fortune.--Napoleon's tomb. 76

CHAPTER VII.

SIGHTS IN THE BEAUTIFUL CITY.

The Gobelin tapestry.--How and where it is made.--Pere
La-Chaise.--Poor Rachel!--The baby establishment.--"Now
I lay me."--The little mother.--The old woman who lived
in a shoe.--The American chapel.--Beautiful women and
children.--The last conference meeting.--"I'm a
proof-reader, I am." 90

CHAPTER VIII.

SHOW PLACES IN THE SUBURBS OF PARIS.

The river omnibuses.--Sevres and its porcelain.--St.
Cloud as it was.--The crooked little town.--
Versailles.--Eugenie's "spare bedroom."--The queen
who played she was a farmer's wife.--Seven miles of
paintings.--The portraits of the presidents. 100

CHAPTER IX.

A VISIT TO BRUSSELS.

To Brussels.--The old and new city.--The paradise and
purgatory of dogs.--The Hotel de Ville and Grand
Place.--St. Gudule.--The picture galleries.--Wiertz
and his odd paintings.--Brussels lace and an hour
with the lace-makers.--How the girls found Charlotte
Bronte's school.--The scene of "Villette." 109

CHAPTER X.

WATERLOO AND THROUGH BELGIUM.

To Waterloo.--Beggars and guides.--The Mound.--Chateau
Hougomont.--Victor Hugo's "sunken road."--Antwerp.--A
visit to the cathedral.--A drive about the city.--An
excursion to Ghent.--The funeral services in the
cathedral.--"Poisoned? Ah, poor man!"--The
watch-tower.--The Friday-market square.--The
nunnery.--Longfellow's pilgrims to "the belfry of
Bruges." 122

CHAPTER XI.

A TRIP THROUGH HOLLAND.

Up the Meuse to Rotterdam.--Dutch sights and
ways.--The pretty milk-carriers.--The
tea-gardens.--Preparations for the Sabbath.--An
English chapel.--"The Lord's barn."--From Rotterdam
to the Hague.--The queen's "House in the
Wood."--Pictures in private drawing-rooms.--The
bazaar.--An evening in a Dutch tea-garden.--Amsterdam
to a stranger.--The "sights."--The Jews' quarter.--The
family whose home was upon the canals.--Out of the
city.--The pilgrims. 134

CHAPTER XII.

THE RHINE AND RHENISH PRUSSIA.

First glimpse of the Rhine.--Cologne and the
Cathedral.--"Shosef in ter red coat."--St. Ursula
and the eleven thousand virgins.--Up the Rhine to
Bonn.--The German students.--Rolandseck.--A search
for a resting-place.--Our Dutch friend and his
Malays.--The story of Hildegund.--A quiet Sabbath.--
Our Dutch friend's reply.--Coblentz.--The bridge of
boats.--Ehrenbreitstein, over the river.--A scorching
day upon the Rhine.--Romance under difficulties.--
Mayence.--Frankfort.--Heidelberg.--The ruined
castle.--Baden-Baden.--A glimpse at the gambling.--The
new and the old "Schloss."--The Black Forest.--
Strasbourg.--The mountains. 147

CHAPTER XIII.

DAYS IN SWITZERLAND.

The Lake of Lucerne.--Days of rest in the city.--An
excursion up the Righi.--The crowd at the summit.--
Dinner at midnight.--Rising before "the early
worm."--The "sun-rise" according to Murray.--Animated
scarecrows.--Off for a tour through Switzerland.--The
lake for the last time.--Gruetlii.--William Tell's
chapel.--Fluellen.--Altorf.--Swiss haymakers.--An hour
at Amsteg.--The rocks close in.--The Devil's Bridge.--
The dangerous road.--"A carriage has gone over the
precipice!"--Andermatt.--Desolate rocks.--Exquisite
wild flowers.--The summit of the Furka.--A descent to
the Rhone glacier.--Into the ice.--Swiss villages.--
Brieg.--The convent inn.--The bare little chapel on the
hill.--To Martigny. 168

CHAPTER XIV.

AMONG THE EVERLASTING HILLS.

The quaint inn.--The Falls of the Sallenches, and the
Gorge de Trient.--Shopping in a Swiss village.--A
mule ride to Chamouni.--Peculiarities of the
animals.--Entrance to the village.--Egyptian mummies
lifted from the mules.--Rainy days.--Chamois.--The
Mer de Glace.--"Look out of your window."--Mont
Blanc.--Sallenches.--A diligence ride to Geneva.--Our
little old woman.--The clownish peasant.--The fork in
the road.--"Adieu." 189

CHAPTER XV.

LAST DAYS IN SWITZERLAND.

Geneva.--Calvin and jewelry.--Up Lake Leman.--Ouchy and
Lausanne.--"Sweet Clarens."--Chillon.--Freyburg.--
Sight-seers.--The Last Judgment.--Berne and its
bears.--The town like a story.--The Lake of Thun.--
Interlaken.--Over the Wengern Alp.--The Falls of
Giessbach.--The Brunig Pass.--Lucerne again. 201

CHAPTER XVI.

BACK TO PARIS ALONE.

Coming home.--The breaking up of the party.--We start
for Paris alone.--Basle, and a search for a hotel.--
The twilight ride.--The shopkeeper whose wits had
gone "a wool-gathering."--"Two tickets for Paris."--
What can be the matter now?--Michel Angelo's Moses.--
Paris at midnight.--The kind _commissionaire_.--The
good French gentleman and his fussy little wife.--A
search for Miss H.'s.--"Come up, come up."--"Can women
travel through Europe alone?" A word about a woman's
outfit. 220

AN

AMERICAN GIRL ABROAD.