Chapter I: Preface

I endeavoured, in a former book on Egypt, to give my first impressions while the glamour of the East had not been dimmed by familiarity; and the kind reception of that, my first literary attempt, has encouraged me to write again after spending some years in the Nile Valley. Though first impressions may have a charm which familiarity lacks, it would be astonishing if a country so full of beauty, and of such varied interests as is Egypt, had caused familiarity to breed contempt. I may safely say that it has not had that result. A lengthened stay has certainly added to my experiences as well as to my stock of drawings, and I trust it has also given me some insight into the character of the people amidst whom I dwelt.

Mediæval Cairo is doubtless year by year the poorer by many picturesque ‘bits’ which have vanished. But Cairo is a large city, and happily many years may elapse before artists will cease to go there for material. What is still untouched by the jerry builder, or has not been allowed to fall into ruin, is probably more beautiful than anything other oriental cities can show. Less change is seen in the smaller towns, and the villages are much the same in aspect as when the Saracen invaders first occupied the valley of the Nile.

Every season adds to the knowledge of Ancient Egypt, and gives us something which for centuries lay hid beneath the desert sands. It was my good fortune to spend some winters at Thebes while some of the most interesting of recent discoveries were made, and through the courtesy of Mr. Weigall, the Chief Inspector of Upper Egypt, I was enabled to dwell and do my work in these congenial surroundings. I have also to thank him for the unique opportunities which our desert journey, from the Nile to the Red Sea, offered; of all my experiences in Egypt, none has given me more pleasure in recalling.

HASLEMERE, 1912.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I
PAGE

CAIRO REVISITED 1

CHAPTER II

RENEWAL OF MY ACQUAINTANCE WITH MOHAMMED
BROWN AND SOME REFLECTIONS
ON MATRIMONY 11

CHAPTER III

THE MOSQUE OF MURISTÂN KALAÛN, MY EXPERIENCE
WITH THE FAKÍR, AND A DIGRESSION
ON THE SUBJECT OF DERVISHES 22

CHAPTER IV

THE FESTIVAL OF THE ‘HASANEYN’ AND THE
STORY OF THE PRINCESS ZOHRA 31

CHAPTER V

OF THE OLD AND THE NEW CAIRO, AND OF A
VISIT TO THE SHEYKH AMMIN SAHEIME 43

CHAPTER VI

MY SECOND VISIT TO THE SHEYKH AND MY
EXPERIENCES WITH AN UNFAITHFUL SERVANT 57

CHAPTER VII

IN WHICH I GET ANOTHER SERVANT AND HUNT
FOR A CROCODILE; ALSO A CONTINUATION
OF THE STORY OF PRINCESS ZOHRA 67

CHAPTER VIII

OF A CAIRO CAFÉ AND OTHER MATTERS 78

CHAPTER IX

THE COPTIC CONVENTS OF WADI NATRUN 90

CHAPTER X

THE MOSQUE OF ES-SALIH TALAI 104

CHAPTER XI

THE BLUE MOSQUE AND KASR-ESH-SHEMA 116

CHAPTER XII

THE SPHINX, AND A DISSERTATION ON TOMMY
ATKINS 127

CHAPTER XIII

THE HAMSEEN, THE LAMP-SHOP, AND THE
ACCESSION OF SAID PASHA 136

CHAPTER XIV

MOHAMMEDAN FESTIVALS: THE HOLY CARPET--THE
FAST OF RAMADAN AND THE ASHURA 151

CHAPTER XV

MORE RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCES, SPRING’S AWAKENING,
AND THE CAIRENE HOUSE OF COUNT ZOGHEB 170

CHAPTER XVI

DER EL-BAHRI, AND SOME INCIDENTS WHICH
TOOK PLACE DURING MY STAY THERE 178

CHAPTER XVII

DER EL-BAHRI (_continued_) 194

CHAPTER XVIII

THE CROSS DESERT JOURNEY TO KOSSEIR 206

CHAPTER XIX

THE VALLEY OF HAMMAMÂT 221

CHAPTER XX

THE WADI FOWAKIYEH AND BÎR HAGI SULIMAN 231

CHAPTER XXI

KOSSEIR 245

CHAPTER XXII

EDFU AND THE QUARRIES OF GEBEL SILSILEH 258