Chapter XXXV: The Future—above All, a Lasting Peace (1)

WILL the future bring us peace; above all, a lasting peace? Though nothing less is worth having, _we cannot have war_.

I saw M. Franklin-Bouillon in Paris and, though not perhaps in agreement with all he did in Syria, I maintain that his work in Moudania deserved thanks rather than criticism. He knows the Turks well, and affirms that he would have made peace at Lausanne. He possibly might have done so, but would it have been _lasting_ peace?

* * * * *

On my way back to London we cross the channel in a Handley-Page Aeroplane. There is just time to prepare a conclusive answer to all questions about the harem; for no matter how eager we are to proceed, after six months’ study of the Angora movement, to more important impressions, every newspaper correspondent asks about the harem.

Just as for those who, in the States; held me personally responsible for our policy in Ireland, I stole from _Life_ a witty answer, compressed into this dramatic “tabloid,” that “turned away American wrath”:

“_Pat_: Wouldn’t it be awful if England now gave us all we wanted?”

“_Mike_: Sure, and ’twould be like her to play us the dirty trick.”

In like manner, I prepared two shots to kill “harem” inquiries:—

_One_: “Why has the Turk only one wife, to-day?

“When four wives meant four tillers of the ground, there was ‘sense’ in polygamy. It is ‘folly’ now they buy their dresses in Paris.”

_Two_: “Why are you always so early at the Mosque?” a pious man was asked.

“As I have two wives, I leave home as soon as possible.”

The result was as I expected.

* * * * *

But what about the peace for which we all wait so anxiously?

What has the future in store for us? We must turn over a new page, and find our way with great care, both sides first uttering their _mea culpas_, with honest courage to learn the lesson of their mistakes.

Above all, may Lausanne learn the lesson of Versailles.

Which of the Big Four dared face _the real problems_ of Versailles? They decided nothing, but, leading us into the pestilent zone of neutrality, imposed a “Government by Committees” upon the world, which could not work. Nature abhors neutrality, as she abhors a vacuum. And so it is in politics.

On the other hand, however, we ask ourselves what nation was as badly beaten as Turkey? Yet which of our late enemies has dared such open defiance to the Allies? Not, however, in consequence of their victory over the Greeks; but because she knows that, however much we may pretend, none wants to fight; and no one can win the prize of “Constantinople” save by conquest.

We had foolish visions of a new Byzantium, and thought that Greece would reward our support by a “place on the Bosphorus.” But had the Powers accepted this monstrous idea of a Greek Bosphorus, we should have found it necessary to punish the arrogance of our _soi-disant_ fellow-burglars. The _timeo Danaos_, etc., of ancient Greece has still its place in modern politics.

The Allies, however, knew they could not create a “neutral” Constantinople, and had intended, before the Bolshevik regime, to present the prize to Russia. A “committee” government of France, Italy and England would mean English rule; and our blundering had been too patent.

There remained no choice. Constantinople had to be given back to Turkey. Though she was beaten in the Great War, which she has now forgotten, we could not conquer her (single-handed, as we should find ourselves to-day); and, therefore, “she has to have her own way.” The endeavour to curb New Turkey by “neutral zones” would prove as useless as an attempt to check the tides. It is only by an honest peace, carefully thought out in every detail and planned for permanent security, that we can regain our prestige in the Near East.

Perhaps, however, the greatest lesson we have still to learn from Turkey’s victory was spoken in Gœthe’s lines:—

“He who would be just must have consideration for _all_ men.”

Or again, as it is written in the Turkish lines quoted by Professor Browne:—

Kam máta gawm un wa ma mátat makárimee pum
Wa asha gawm un was hum fi ’n—nase amwátu!

Many a people’s virtues survive when themselves are sped,
And many a people linger, who are counted by man as dead!

Turkey is not dead, but born again out of the ruins of a Great Civilisation. May there be peace again between East and West, that shall bring peace to a world so greatly needing what it so little deserves!

My final words are of sincere congratulations to New Turkey, of warmest thanks to all the friends who gave unending interest to my visit, of pious hopes for peace.

At Lausanne, Ismet Pasha always gave the toast of “The British Empire and King George,” and I responded with “Turkey and Mustapha Kemal Pasha”; then we touched glasses, coupling the names. May “coming events cast their shadows before.” _Inch Allah!_ and again, _Inch Allah!_

THE END

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INDEX

Abdul Halik Bey, the Vali of Smyrna, 44 _et seq_.

Abdul Hamid, an exception, who reversed Turkish ideals, 91
his terrible régime, 160, 191
the ruthless, 210
clever at “losing” Turks and forgetting them, 227
vain hopes for his “Parliament,” 229
his excellent cigarettes, 236
his Turks used to be ordered about, 304
reference to, 22-24, 54, 90, 118, 125, 156, 181, 182, 200, 207, 208,
249

Abdul Medjid, 153

Abiloff, M., Azerbaijan, Ambassador for Caucasians, 202

Ablutions, a religious rite, described, 83

Acropolis, at Athens, difficulties of its ascent, 40, 41

Adabazar, a Circassian tribe, 153

Adalia, school closed, 194

Adam, Mr. Adam, of British delegates, 307

Adana, 125, 198

Abdul Hak, Hamid, Turkish writer, for the people, 220
acknowledged leader of the “New” literature, reconstructs learning
and creates the soul of Turkey, 221

Adnan Bey, Dr., Vice-President of the Assembly, 153, 186
Angora High Commissioner in Constantinople, husband of Halidé Hanoum,
206

Adrianople, the Siege of, 288

Æschylus, 41

Afghanistan, Ambassador, 202, 203

Afioum-Karahissar, where they finally leave train, 88, 102, 110

Aga Aglou Ahmed Bey, Director of Angora Press, repeats that “whatever
we do is wrong,” 226,
admits the value of propaganda, 227, 228
views on the Press, 231

_Agamemnon_, on board the, 195

Ahmet Emine, brilliant journalist, 142

Aidin Railway, antiques found in laying the route, 62, 63

Alascheir, once prosperous, 76, 77

Albania, 294

Albanians, wiped out, 23
scheme to exclude, 169

Albert Hall, 38

Alcohol, its use and abuse, taught in schools, 216

Alewites, 153

Alfred and the cakes, 249

Algeciras, and its assembly of fallen angels, 178

Ali Fouad Pasha, general, President of “Rights of Roumelia and
Anatolia,” largely the inspiration of the Assembly, 199
commanding in the North, 224

America and her churches as advertisers, 78
anecdotes of her journalistic enterprise, 97, 98
her two generations of Jews, 118
approved as a “democracy,” 148
should spread gospel of Rockefeller Institute against vermin and
microbes, 264

American, author will _not_ pretend to be, ix
“nerves” in the war, 26
author supposed to be American, but objects, 75, 76 _et passim_
sings “Swannee River,” 53
the first at Smyrna, his advice, 67
the second at Smyrna, his advice, 67, 68
scheme to rebuild Turkey _à la_ “States,” 85
unwise propaganda for Christians 175
Nonconformity and the Holy War, 239, 240
idle talk of a new “home” for Armenians, 247
their mischievous propaganda, 247
characteristic, of arrogant obstinacy, 262, 263
diplomacy not wanted in English Embassies, 291
Near East relief workers in Anatolia, 203
who are, unfortunately, too pro-Armenian, 203

American Relief Worker to the rescue, 256 _et seq._
his marvellous efficiency as a traveller, 256-258, 259 _et seq._
joins author on journey to Constantinople, 259
views on Greek barbarity, 259, 260
recognises “personal” element in all relations with Turks, 260
eager to know author’s view of American work in Turkey, 263-265
his idea of service in “understanding,” 264
linguist and jack-of-all-trades, 267, 268
rudeness, a tactful cure for women’s nerves, 268
back-stair influence on the League, 315

Americans, do not know how to drink, 113
delightful, _in spite_ of their Government, 114
done fine work in education, 203, 204
in Turkey, with the best intentions, interfere too much, 263-265
may have “concessions,” if they keep their hands off architecture,
269

Anafarta, 182

Anatolia, Greek atrocities in, 63
sense of isolation, 72
great hospitality, 72 _et seq._
general condition of country, 74 _et seq._
nowhere to house the poor people, 75
children and soldiers of, 75
people comforted by being _seen_, 77
wonderful recovery of trade, 101
a typical _han_ (inn), 110
similarity of devastated towns, 125, 126
bazaars and curio-merchants reviving their trade, 126
the carriages and drivers of the country, 135
people seem to have “walked out of the Bible,” 135
excellent newspapers, 142, 144, 208
primitive machinery, 144
must be in at 5 o’clock sunset, 146
accepted heavy taxation, 152
song of her love for Roumelia, 153
carpets and rugs from, 167
the native music, 170
refugees of, 186
unfortunate influence of American relief workers against Turkey on
behalf of Armenians, 203, 204
but they have done fine work in education, 203, 204
advantages of Anglo-French capital, 204
retains old customs largely abandoned in Constantinople, 205
true hospitality in a two-roomed cabin, 232, 233
character of the people, 234
everywhere maps of Asia Minor, 234
their folk-songs, 238, 258
cared for by Pope, 239
must not grumble in Anatolia, 256
need lessons in hygiene, 256-258
peasants declare they do _not_ lack anything, 258
a “casual” driver, 259 _et seq._
strange method of caravan-driving, where one donkey leads a troop of
camels, 260, 261
colour of soil suggests rich veins of iron, 271, 272
peasants accept low prices when told that times are bad, 275
her folk-songs heard in Lausanne, 299, 300
when it first became Moslem, 308
being manœuvred into power of Helenes, 308
purchased by blood of peasants, 312
reference to, 46, 64, 112, 115, 125, 138, 166, 175, 180, 182, 199,
206, 212, 245, 284, 288, 311
_See_ “Angora”

Andromache, 41

Anglican scheme for union with Greek Church, 239, 240

Angora, “the little Republic of the Mountains,” ix
discourtesy to ambassadors from, 27
no luxuries in, 32
unknown to British, 72
misunderstood in Angora, 125
at last near at hand, 127
first view of, 131
somehow disappointing, 132
atmosphere of brotherhood, 133, 134
the town described, 134–135
high rents, 139
everyone reads the papers, 157, 158
the real “New Turkey,” 139, 140
a primitive printing works, 144
the Hadji Baïram “quarter,” 144
not many “sights,” except hospitals, schools and gardens, 145, 146
serious housing problem, 146
how we exaggerate here, 147
all men proud of their country, 148
will Angora or Constantinople be capital of the new State, 149
Holy Angora, 168
Treaty signed here with France, 177
its foreign personalities, 202 _et seq._
Germans have no influence, 202
but are conciliating Turks in Germany, 202
surprising progress, especially in hospitals, 215, 216
former “Director of its Press,” 218
present “Director of its Press,” 226
its famous Mosque of Hadgi Baïram, 223
carries one back to centuries before Christ, 226
where do all the people live? 226
dangers of the bad roads, 232
a “difficult” house to find—“near the pump,” 236
the Christian Colony, 245-247
representative in Rome, 250
admirable organisation of Justice by Djelaleddine Arif Bey, 251, 252
no tips, no haggling over prices, 286
a _woman_ sent out to Angora by French Government, 291
has taken from Constantinople the heart and spirit of Turkey, 295,
296
naturally touching, 304
reference to, 30, 55, 58, 66-68, 88, 105, 108, 120, 121, 156, 160,
168, 178, 205-207, 228, 239, 242, 244, 273 _et passim_

Antigone, 41

Antoine, who staged some of Pierre Loti’s tales, anecdote of, 18

Arabia, words from the Turkish literature, 59, 219, 250

Arabs, scheme to exclude, 169, 222, 306
minority in Mosul, 311

Arden, Forest of, 124

Aristotle, 41

Armenian choir regret their old “good times” with Turks, 236-238
orphans and Father Babadjanian 246, 247
servants in harems, well treated and contented, 315

Armenians, “under Papal protection,” 52
attempt of girls to escape, 64, 65
in America, 78
hard to realise they are Christians, 134
in Cilicia, 153
shawls, 171
orphans, 211
turn to Russia, 221
feel “at home” in Turkey, 237
want to be left alone, 238
call Turkey their “home,” 247
have long filled their pockets out of the Turks, 275
at Lausanne, 299
reference to, 222, 238, 241

Armistice, 182

“Army of Occupation,” what it means, 30

Army of Nationalists, described, 224, 225
increased from 10,000 men to 400,000, with 250 big guns, etc., 224
detailed statistics and character of Staff, 225

Asia Minor, quite safe, 57
and Orthodox Church, 308
map to be seen everywhere in Anatolia, 234
reference to, 25, 139, 197, 204, 212, 244

Asiatics, not inferiors, 59

Asquith, Mr., and his son, 77

Astor, Lady, effect on other women, of her success in Parliament, 291

Athens, visited, 36 _et seq._
its churches, 39, 124, 221

_Athenæum_, on blonde Turks, 228

Augustus, his “comfortable” period, 226

Austerlitz, 166

Australian mothers, their gratitude for “the truth” about Turkey, 208,
280

Aviation ground, reorganised, 101
women aviators, 102

Azerbaijan, ambassador, 202

Babadjanian, in charge of Armenian orphans, 246, 247

Bagdad, and her woman Professor, 125, 190

Balfour, Lord, unfortunate scorn of Turkey, 314

Balkan War, 24, 193, 210

Barrère, M., 299

Beaconsfield, Lord, 141

Bedford College open to Turkish women medical students, 211

Békir Sami Bey, Ambassador from Angora and the Soviets, 27

Benedict XV., Pope, beautiful bust of, 242
killed by strain of war, 244

Benghazi, 182

Berlin, 25, 111

Beyrout, 182, 211

Bieberstein, Marshall von, German diplomat at Constantinople, and his
“human” retriever, 24

Bilidjik, station for “the express,” 88, 255, 259

Bismarck, 305

Bitlis, 182

“Black” Sultan, the, 227

Boghetti, who brought fruit, 232

Bolshevism, compared with Moslem, 90
has “no” influence in Turkey, 150, 151
in spite of their magnificent Embassy, 151
and their genuine friendship, 151
at Lausanne, 299

Bosphorus, 251

Boston lady, her insulting lies about life in harem, 315

Briand, M., attack on Lloyd George, 50
his famous Note, 107
his pleasant compliment, 116

British Museum, 63
naval officer at Smyrna, 67
propaganda, 116

Broussa, ancient capital of Turkey, fine hospital at, 215, 216
headmistress at College of, misses the “Christian” pupils, 217
and the comfort of its Hotel Brotte, 272
unexpected visit to, 273 _et seq._
governor’s house burnt to cinders, 273
town had been saved by a brigand, 273
influx of Jews, 274
splendid bathing, 274
silk and tobacco factories, 274, 275
its bazaar, its Mosque, and the letter-writer, 276
true atmosphere of Islam, 276 _et seq._
a minaret and the famous Green Mosque, 277-279
school-house and hospital, 282, 283
reference to, 163, 258, 259, 316

Browne, Prof. E. G., hope that he will translate some of the Turkish
books on Nationalism, 217, 218
his perfect knowledge of language, 218
his praise of the author, 218
quoted, 214, 320

Brutus, his wife, 124

Bryce, Lord, his opinion enough to crush all argument, a tale of
Western arrogance, 262, 263

Bucharest, 62

Bulgarians, now friends again, 175
more respected than Turks, 129, 310

Burns, Mrs. John, anecdote of her dignity, 133

Byron, Lord, _his_ Greece and his _Maid of Athens_, 41

Byzantine Hippodrome in Constantinople, 27, 308

Cadem Haïr, a maid, whose mistress buys her trousseau, 189

Caliphat, the sacred office, 90

Calthorpe, Admiral, and the Armistice 193
hears tribute to English honour, 195, 227

Calthorpe, 227

Camerad Areloff, Soviet Ambassador in Angora, 152
no influence over Pasha, 169, 202

Canada, 280

Capitulations, unjudicial, incompatible with national sovereignty,
would be also injurious to foreigners, 117, 311
naturally “desired” by foreigners, 275

Caracol, the (or lock-up), of Smyrna, 52

Caravan, in charge of a donkey, 260, 261

Carl Marx, 156, 162

Carlyle on Mahomet, 22

Carpet-factory visited, 100, 101

Catholic, what the word now means in Turkey, 52, 63
happy in Turkey, 241

Caucasian Confederation, 182, 202, 224

Cecil, Lord Robert; quaint thoughts of him in Anatolia, 105
impossible scheme to unite Anglicans and Greek Church, 106, 108
should see that “League” does not appear anti-Islam, 50, 313, 314.

Cemetery, like a field of poppies, 101

Ceretti, Monsignor, Paris Papal Nonce, memories of Pope as a young man,
242, 243

Chamber of Deputies, the French, 154

“Chapel of Bones” in Malta, 31

Cheik (once Professor of Arabic at Oxford) joins author in her journey,
69 _et seq._
a delightful travelling companion 71 _et seq._
his appearance described, 71
his generous kindness, 80
his philosophy, 81, 82
talks on politics, 90, 91
must educate his sons in Germany, not England, 93
reference to, 73, 75, 95, 103, 105, 112, 121, 133

Cheik, the; our “troubles” will make history, 80, 81, 102
talk on religion and the Koran, 106, 107
an excellent housewife, 110, 111
claims that Turks are “clean,” 269
reference to, 73, 75, 95, 103, 105, 112, 121, 133

Cheik-ul-Islam, called in to formally depose Khalif, 199, 200
compared to Abdul Hamid’s “Cheik,” 200

Chemsi Effendi, schoolmaster in Salonika, 180

Cheriat laws are not run on a “cash basis,” 251, 269, 270

Chester, Mr., of the U.S., and sky-scrapers, 117, 118

Child Observer, the, or Boy Scout, from America, 300
his “little kindness” to Ismet Pasha, 300

China, 58, 234

Chislehurst, where Kemal Pasha’s future wife was educated, 190

Chivalry, fine, but inconvenient sometimes, 56 _et seq._

Choate, Joseph, stern rebuke of Baron Marshall von Bieberstein, 301,
302

Christ in Koran, 22
venerated by Turks, 92

Christian minorities to be looked after by M. Kemal, 238
must be loyal, 247
only Turks can “protect,” 237, 238

Christian prayer for Turkey and the Pasha, 237

Christians claim exemption from military service, 160
why they have left Anatolia, 175, 176
happy at school with the Moslems, 211
to be exempt from military service, 213
have always lived in harmony with the Turks, 213

Churches, the; their proper function, 108, 109

Cilicia, 120, 153, 224

Circassian tribes, 153

Clapham, 30

Clemenceau, Mons., bigger man than Napoleon, 165, 166
did not know of oil in Mosul, 311

Committee of Union and Progress, 195, 222
its mistakes, 173

Compton, Mr., administers relief in Anatolia, 203

“Conceited ass” a leader of camels, 260, 261

Constant, Mons., French Ambassador at Constantinople, 24

Constantine, of Greece, afraid of air-raids, 94, 95
tale of an “interview” with, 97, 98, 107

Constantinople, its avenue of Pierre Loti, 20
mass meeting in the Byzantine Hippodrome, 27
its “dangerous” distractions, 29 _et seq._
fear of its being handed to Russia, 90
will not tolerate a “Greek” Patriarch, 107, 108
the Hippodrome made in Germany, 118
some impressions of its bazaar, 126
will it be capital of new State? 149
Parliament seized by English, 155
present position and prospects, 176
reforms interrupted by the war, 187
the newspaper called _Illeri_, or _Forwards_, 229
representative in Rome, 250
ceremony of the Mouharrem, 250, 251
its relics of Byzantium, 274
eager for tips, sharp contrast to the Anatolians, 285, 286
fixed tariff required for tips and cabs, 286
compensations in luxury, 286
Armenian concert interrupted by dogs, 294, 295
street-feuds among dogs, who unite against “alien” Christians, 294,
295
still the sublime but no longer the Turkey of the Turks, which is
Angora, 295, 296
the holy man of the Tekka, 296, 297
how correspondents “hash up” their news, 303
Ottoman rule in, 308
cannot be neutral, and so intended for Russia, 319
government by committee would mean English rule, 320
must be given back to Turkey, 320
reference to, 23, 26, 108, 125, 153, 163, 179, 180, 182, 193. 203,
206, 220, 224, 239, 244, 252, 259, 263, 273, 284, 288, 307, 309,
311

Conversation without words, 138

Cook, Messrs. Thomas, & Co., Egypt, Ltd., 19, 20

Crowday, Dame Rachel, at the League, 112

Cuba, 49

Curzon, Lord, knows the East, 143
firm, but not insulting, 178
views on the Assembly, 193
books on the East, 227
understands Ismet Pasha, 287
knows the subject, and his own mind; has full powers, 289
for him the right way is not the easy way, 290
compliments the author, 291
his duel with Ismet Pasha, 197, 299
preparing his “part,” 301
a pleasure to meet, 303
unfortunate severity and stiffness of manner in public, 303
really interested in Turks and understands them, 303, 304
might be more himself with Ismet Pasha, 303
cannot ignore “public opinion” in the West, still based on our
conception of old Turkey, 304
said of Ismet Pasha, “I like the little man,” 305
naturally told nothing, but asked questions, 305
guesses at his policy, 306
hampered by association with the Coalition, 306
pity he cannot deal more directly with Turks, 306
his public speeches, 306
refuses to recognise religious tolerance of Turks, 309
try to force on Turkey what they would not offer to Greeks or
Bulgars, 310
could deal with “public opinion” if he really wished to, 310
always seems to distrust Turks, 310
reference to, 27, 299, 317

Cyprus, 24

Czar Ferdinand, of Bulgaria, at Marienbad, 129

Damascus, 182

Dames de Nazareth, the, at Beyrout, converted to school, 211

Dane at Smyrna, his advice, 67

Dardanelles, the, 182, 224

Daudet, his hero and his goal, 157

Deacoville, 85, 88

de Brock, Admiral, stationed outside Smyrna, 63

de C——, Mrs., widow of Minister in Teheran, 62 _et seq._
her advice, 68
account of fire in Smyrna, 73, 74

Democracy may be “perfect” in the East, 162

Dervishes, the “contemplative” and the “dancing”: fascination of their
rhythms, 281
their “progressive” representative, 156

Dersim, its aged Deputy, 155, 156

Diab, Deputy for Dersim, ninety years old, 155, 156

Diarbékir, 139, 234

Diogenes, 77

Diplomacy must be taken up when you are twenty-one, not later, 292

Disraeli, grateful protector of Turks, 241

Divans, early Turkish poems, 219

Djavid Bey, 138, 306

Djelaleddine Arif Bey, represents Angora in Rome, 44, 250
his escape to Angora, 251
strongly against Capitulations, and his admirable organisation of
justice, 251, 252
on Palestine, 252

Djellal Noury Bey, editor of the _Illeri_, and the National Pact,
229-231
used to edit a French paper, 230

Djémal Pasha, former Minister of Marines, as interpreter, 98, 208, 249,
250
the late, 235

Dogs lack the dignity of the East, 98

Drake, 249

Drummond, Sir Eric, asks why Turks suspect the League, 314
wants Turkey to be on Council of League, 317

“Drunken Englishman, The,” a popular game in Naples, 113

Dublin, degree given to Turkish woman medical student, 211

Dumas, and his interview with Gregory XVI., 240

Durdje, a Circassian tribe, 153

Dutch parson at Smyrna, his advice, 67

Dutchman who ought to write a book, 53
trusts Turks, 68
tale of how Greeks respect Turkish army, 274

East, Sir Alfred, on painting an Eastern sunset, 297

École Normale Supérieure de Sèvres, school attended by author, 218

Edison, a tale of his youth, 181
on being deaf, 309

Edward VII. and Pierre Loti, 19
at Marienbad, 129, 130

Egypt, 59, 116, 148, 168

Eliot, George, her words are part of the treasure England has for
mankind, 214

Ellison, Grace, her mission for peace, ix, x
her friendship with Pierre Loti, 17 _et seq._
early admiration of Gladstone, 22
first personal impressions of the Revolution, 23
her “Turkish sister,” 23-25
at Stamboul, 24
her “An Englishwoman in a Turkish Harem,” 24
risks of friendship for Turkey, 25
invited to Angora, 28
some of her views on women, 29 _et seq._
her search for Union Jack, 34 _et seq._
her “defence” of England, 35, 39, 42
her impressions of Athens, 36 _et seq._
on the “modern” Greek financier, 36 _et seq._
and the Hellenes, 38 _et seq._
on imperialism for Greece, 40
on Smyrna, 43 _et seq._
her first impressions of devastations, 43
the first “spinster” to enter Turkey, 44
her battles with the flies, 47, 48
distrust of financiers who exploit Turkey, 50, 51
known as “niece” of Lloyd George, 50, 51
refuses “control” from English chivalry, 54 _et seq._
could meet bullying better than kindness, 55
always “trusts” Turks, 56
entirely unsupported by Government or the Press, 58
“childhood” beginnings of her keen interest in the East, 58, 59
nearly blown up among ruins of Smyrna, 61
actually ready to start for Angora, 66
farewell gifts and advice, 67-69
advice and gifts from men of all nations at Smyrna, 67-69
her “answer” to them all, 69
her delightful companion, the learned Cheik, 69 _et seq._
memories of England, 69, 70
her eventful journey to Angora, 71 _et seq._
first impressions of Anatolia, 72 _et seq._
once more called an “American,” but objects, 75, 76
experience of life in trains, 77 _et seq._
a night in the open, 80, 81
not a true Eastern, 82
a journey on foot, 85 _et seq._
addresses public meeting at Ouchak, 94 _et seq._
does not regret discomfort, 94
reasons for visit to Angora explained, 95
must not have war, 95
demands “friendship” between Turkey and Great Britain, 96
strange ways of her Turkish lady’s-maid, 98
the terror of travelling in a luggage train, 104 _et seq._
refuses to stay in train 109, 110
once more taken for American, 114
her aims and work, 119
making her toilette in the train 122, 123
her “Turkish Woman’s Impressions of Europe,” 124
disappointed at _first_ impressions of Angora, 132
visits newspaper office and printing works, 144
her “guide” in Angora, 144 _et seq._
what to sketch in Angora, 145
once more “why” an American, 148
sort of “father confessor” to beloved new nation, 148
impressions of Assembly, 148 _et seq._
talks with Mustapha Kemal, 159 _et seq._
at the Pasha’s own house, 163 _et seq._
curiously like M. Kemal, 170
her interview with M. Kemal, 174 _et seq._
what it cost her to reach Angora, 183
views and anecdotes of harem life, 184-191
views on “women,” 185
makes friends with Ministers of the Assembly, 192 _et seq._
hopes they will be ready to learn from Europe, 198
renews her friendship with Halidé Hanoum, 205 _et seq._
messages to John Masefield and from Australian mothers, 208
her own “best way” of helping national Turkey, 214
still “more to do” in Angora, 215
visits a Lycée for Girls, 215, 216
interesting Preface to her “Englishwoman in a Turkish Harem,” by
Prof. Browne, 218
proud pupil of École Normale Supérieure de Sèvres, 218
organised meetings against help to Czarist Russia, 220, 221
faith the same for all men, 223
indiscreet questions about the army, 224, 225
final impressions of Angora, 226 _et seq._
her ideas of propaganda, 228
she is half-East, half-West, 228
prefers hard work to peroxide and henna, 228
approves the National Pact, 229-231
enjoys a picnic and a good dinner, 231, 232
a poor shot, 231
nearly suffocated by fumes from mangal, 232
visits a wayside cabin, 232, 233
studying the map, 234
talk at a “supper-party” given by an Anglophobian, 235-238
her Turkish sister again, 238
impressions of Rome and the Pope, 239 _et seq._
describes the Pasha to the Pope, 243, 244
visits Armenian orphans, 246, 247
on diplomats in Rome, 249 _et seq._
impressions of several Khalifs, 249, 250
tale of Alfred and the cakes, _and_ of the Suffragettes to Prince
Youssouff Zeddine, 249, 250
sees a celebration of the Mouharrem, 250, 251
leaves Angora in the snow, 254 _et seq._
dangerous drives in a yaili, 254 _et seq._, 259 _et seq._
a night “in the open” saved by American efficiency, 256-258
tale of mutual ignorance between English and Americans, 260
“falls in love” with an ass! 260, 261
thinks, on the whole, Americans do more harm than good in Turkey,
263-265
judge a nation by its “gods” and learn “humanity” from Islam, 265
attack on Puritanism towards women, whom all Turks honour and
respect, 265, 266
Turks too resigned while our dollar-race drenches the world in blood,
266
life in primitive times, 268 _et seq._
by all means let us play at schemes for rebuilding the world, but
leave all the “old bits,” 269
Broussa, and the first chance of brushing one’s hair, 272
tale of letter-writing for a _Poilu_, 276
climbing a minaret, 277
visiting Loti’s Green Mosque, 278, 279
on board a cockle-shell of a boat, cheered by photograph of Gladys
Cooper 283, 284
her “harmless” mission to make England a little better understood,
284
impressions of Constantinople, 285 _et seq._
too much heart to be English, 285
her Swan-Song of what she has proved women can do, 291-293
defence of her “Disadvantages of Being a Woman,” 292
only trusted at the Front, when men thought she was French, 292, 293
more at home in French Embassies than English, 293
four Christmas Days in Turkey, 293-295
danger of being too cosmopolitan, 294
holds on to Faith, because War has taken away everything else, 295
anger with jazz bands, 295
first woman admitted in Tekké at Constantinople, 296
at Lausanne, 298 _et seq._
strange feeling of being in a neutral country, 298
severe criticism of journalists at Lausanne, 301-303
helps to make Lord Curzon understand, 304
haunted at Lausanne by memories of Angora, 306
tries to divide time between Turks and British, 307
obtains full explanation of Turkish policy at Lausanne, 309-312
views on the League of Nations, 313 _et seq._
could never obtain statistics about Greek atrocities, 316
hopes for the future, 318 to the end
over the Channel in an aeroplane, 318
held responsible in the States for Irish policy, 318
witty answers that turn away wrath, 318
congratulations and thanks to New Turkey, 320

England, memories of, 69, 70

English, the; once welcomed, now distrusted, ix
idle policy in Turkey, 25
hated by Greeks, 39
will be soon welcomed again in Turkey, 49, 50
ignorance of Young Turkey, of Angora, and of the Nationalists, 72
humour unlike the French, 124
will now take bribes, 142
our policy will “come right,” 144
seized Turkish parliament in Constantinople, 155
will again be friends with Turks, 174, 178
generous welcome to Turks in England, 211
Taine’s judgment of them quoted, 214
the best real “education,” 218
stupid ignorance of the Khalif’s supreme duty towards Holy Relics,
219
shameful admiration for Russia of the Czars, 220, 221
close a “Nationalist” club, 222
whole “Press” is anti-Islam, 231
must lead attitude of the world towards Turkey, 239
why should we interfere? 263 _et seq._
much to learn from the East in pity and humanity, 265
cruel Puritanism followed by bloodshed in race for dollars, 265, 266
their injustice to Turks entirely due to their being misled by Greek
and Armenian dragomen, 280
witty story to illustrate our national habit of not listening, 290
public opinion still based on conception of “old” Turkey, 304
our Empire founded on trust, 306
people in vain seek for confidence from the Government, 306
captured Mosul by violating Armistice, 311
need friendship of Turks, as Turks need English friendship, 312
should have been above pick-pocketing habit of confiscating enemy
property, 314
can only regain prestige by honest peace, 320

“Englishwoman in a Turkish Harem, An,” by Grace Ellison, 24
appreciation by Prof. Browne, 218

Envichéir, and its primitive inn, 268

Enver Pasha, evil influence, 25, 92, 98

Erki-Chéir, where General Trécoupis was in captivity, 108
picturesque café, 117
flourishing town, 125
munition-making replaced art, 127
reference to, 123, 129, 254

Europe, will she ever realise? 147, 148

Faith, the same for all men, 223

Falkenhayn, General, whose methods disgusted M. Kemal, 182

Falstaff, 124

Fanar to be separated from Orthodox Church, 308

Fatma, 189

Ferid Bey, Mme.; _see_ “Mufidé Hanoum”

Feszi Bey, Minister of Public Works, 198
author’s host at Angora, 137 _et seq._
his unfailing courtesy, 138, 139, 141-143
appearance and business energy, 139
alarmed at idea of receiving an Englishwoman, 170
his private business, 199
delight in map, 234

Fethi Bey, Minister of the Interior and Ambassador from Angora; his
praise of England, 27, 28
his “philosophy,” 32, 33
memories of London, 162
a Minister at thirty-two, 192
his life and character, well known in England, Minister of Interior,
195-197
claims Jerusalem for the Turks, who honour Christ, rather than for
Jews, 252, 253
laughs at our English pride of family, 270
humiliated in London by hearing the harem life misrepresented, 315
reference to, 35, 125, 132, 137, 143, 154, 159, 166, 178, 285

Flies in Athens, 37
have real “freedom” in Turkey, 47 _et seq._
the end of, 79

France, why she gave up Cilicia, 120
the Treaty with, 177
value of her political support, 194
not the Power to which Turkey looks for help, 203
ready to give a criminal, _or_ a genius, his chance, 293
denies that she has taken a penny from Turks, 314
reference to, 74
_See also_ “French”

Frank Street in Smyrna, 62

Franklin-Bouillon, M., advises friendship with England, 121
says he could have made peace at Lausanne, 318

Freedom of the Straits must be _real_ freedom, 176-178

French influence in the Near East, 20
unsuspicious, 25, 26
their interests in Syria, 114, 115
Revolution studied by M. Kemal, 181
their influence has played “too large a part” in Turkey, 214
method of typhoid-inoculation, 215
losing the enthusiasm of the Turks, 228
violated Armistice in Cilicia, 311

Frenchman at Smyrna, his advice, 68

Friendship between Turkey and Great Britain essential to both, 96

Fouzouli, earliest writer of love-poetry in Turkish, 219

Front, at the, 96

Gabriel Effendi Nouradunghian, an Armenian, chosen by Turks as Minister
of Foreign Affairs, 221

Ghazal, that is, a love song, 219

Gallipoli, 182

Gasparri Cardinal; his views on Turkey, 148
his character, 252

Geneva and the League, 112, 317
cathedral locked, 279

Genoa, 300

George V., the “Moslem” King, 86

Georgian Circassian slaves, 190

Georgians at Lausanne, 299

Gerbervilliers, 95

Gentleman: Turkish ambition to be one, ix, x

Germans have no influence, 202
but are conciliating Turks in Germany, 24, 202
education vitiated by punishments, 218
a trench, 95
Soviets, 306

Germany began to tamper with Nationalist independence and was thrown
off, 25, 195, 271

Gladstone, reaction against influence of, 22, 78, 95, 141
Lady, and the Lyceum Club League Circle, 313

Gladys Cooper, her photograph in a ship’s cabin, Queen of Beauty among
the ladies of the Levant, 284

Goethe quoted, 143, 320

Gordon, General, author’s father’s praise of, 22, 207, 249

Goschen, Sir Edward, and Edward VII., 129, 130

Grand National Assembly, the parliament of Nationalist Turkey, 135
description of building and position, 148
the band in gardens of, 152
form of proceedings, 153-155
evidence of democracy, 154
different personalities, 155 _et seq._
predominance of military uniforms, 156
rather “difficult” variety of culture among Deputies, 156, 157
false reports at Lausanne of its corruption, 157
is _really_ national, 157
inspires confidence, 158
one chamber the ideal form of government, 162
opposition at present has little weight, 169, 170
its attitude explained by M. Kemal, 174
a Cabinet of young men, 192
its three great men, 192 _et seq._
Cabinet and Prime Minister independent, 192
Ministers are Heads of Departments, 192
real authority rests with the whole Assembly, 192
Lord Curzon does not think system would work for a stable State, 193
difference in knowledge and culture between Deputies, 198
Cabinet and less-known Ministers, 198 _et seq._
difficulties in the future foreseen, 200
has achieved permanent success, 228, 229
the restaurant provided by a professor, 235
a Western atmosphere, 238
deserves congratulations from the Mother of Parliaments, 305
reference to, 146, 247

Grand Tchelebi, progressive representative of Dancing Dervishes, 156

Great Britain breaks her faith with Turkey, 90, 91
bitterness against, 95

Greater Greece, greater than Greeks can sustain, 21

Greek Patriarch supported by Sultans, 308

Greek Pope, the, 39

Greek, moneylenders, 36 _et seq._
the business men of Turkey, 49
atrocities in Smyrna, 26, 60
to enslave Turks, 27
hate Lloyd George, 39
barbarism in Anatolia, 63
ungrateful conduct of refugees, 63
anecdote of cruelty, 73, 74
other examples, 74
Greeks in America, 78
devastations worse than the “German,” 79
burning of trains, 94
their dream of Empire, 107, 221
largely victims of Big Powers, 161
we cannot forget their atrocities, 208
report of them by Halidé Hanoum, 212, 213
Church, 245
further evidence of devastations on return journey, danger of
American relief worker, 260
Ottoman Greeks weep when their compatriots burn Broussa, 273
run away from a field of poppies, which they mistake for Turkish
soldiers, 274
have long filled their pockets out of the Turks, 275
have always misled the English about the Nationalists, 280
their “victims” in hospital, 282, 283
more respected by the Powers than the Turks, 310
servants in Turkish harems, well treated and contented, 315
statements about, by an Italian lady at Broussa, 316
foolish vision of a place on the Bosphorus, 319
reference to, 52, 222, 241, 244

Green Mosque at Broussa made famous by Pierre Loti, 20, 278, 279

Gregory XVI. interviewed by Dumas, 240

Guests, how they should “direct” their hosts in Anatolia, 138

Gunhani, where railway line is cut, 79, 85
wonderful railway bridge, 88

Hadji Baïram, a “quarter” of Angora, 144
its mosque, 223

Hague, Second Conference, a dramatic moment, 301, 302

HAÏDAR Bey from Vannes, the “old brigand” who buys rugs and carpets for
Colonel Mougin, 235-238
sworn never to speak to Englishman, but arranges supper-party for
author, 236-238
reference to, 88, 121

Hakki Pasha, Grand Vizier, quoted, 25

Halidé Edib Hanoum, one of the finest women in Turkey, 92
the Jeanne d’Arc of Turkey, 102
never unveils her hair, 138
wanted in “Assembly,” 157
quoted, 184
character, life, and opinions, 205 _et seq._
respected everywhere, wanted in the Assembly, 205, 210
now an enemy to England but ready to love us again, 205
manner and appearance, 206, 207
translates from the American, 207
her work and views on freedom for women, 209 _et seq._
Chief Inspector of Schools, an organiser of education programme, 209
retains the “veil” for its “Nationalist” significance, 210
has prepared report of Greek devastations, 212, 213
pessimistic about Conference, 213
peace but _not_ dishonour, 213
Jeanne d’Arc of Turkey, 214
the greatest woman of the “New” literature, 222
her remarkable “Nouveau Touran,” 222
member of the “Turc Odjagui,” 222
should have been invited to report on harems, 314, 315
reference to, 153, 184, 186, 204, 227, 232, 233

Hamdoullah Soubhi Bey, eloquent speaker for women, 185
character and opinions, 233, 234
eloquent against harem, 233, 234
not lenient to Greeks, 234
can trace Turkish civilisation over the world, 234
simple tastes, and not superstitious, 235
founder of the “Turc Odjagui,” _q.v._, 222, 223

Hamid Bey, 306

_Hamidieh_, the, in the Balkan War, 193

Hamilton, Lady, _did_ influence politics, 290

Harem, misunderstood, 26
provides “real” safety, 30
discussed with M. Kemal, 184-186
descriptions and anecdotes, his own choice, 187-191
not invented by Prophet, introduced in conquest of Byzantium, 190
investigated by the League, 314
formerly described by nursery governesses, 315
Christian servants well treated and contented, 315
a tabloid reply to criticism, 318, 319

Harrington, General; his views on Turkey and Lausanne, 286, 287
his fine work at Moudania, 287
praise of Refet Pasha, 287, 288
and other Turks, 281, 282
reference to, 25, 120

Hassan Fehmi Bey, Minister of Finance, 198

Hedjaz, sacred city, 250

Helen of Troy, 38

Henderson, Arthur, 156

Henderson, Neville, British Chargé d’Affaires at Constantinople,
popular in Turkey, though not pro-Turk, 293

Herbert, Colonel Aubrey, authority on Near East, 128

Hikmet Bey, Captain, aide-de-camp to the French colonel, 134, 305

Hindenberg, 182

Hodja, living in oak tree, 77

Hodjas, their reactionary influence, 156
their powers limited, 161
responsible for Turkey’s long sleep, 271
misinterpret Koran, 230

Homer, 41

Horses, agreeable neighbours, 110

Hospitals, greatly advanced in recent years, 215, 216

House, Colonel; why he chose Geneva for seat of the League 317

Hussein Djahid, brilliant journalist, 142, 143
edits _Tanine_, 208, 209
dances to warm his feet, 35, 300

Hussein Raghib Bey, Prof., Chargé d’Affaires in Paris; his account of
Nationalist literary revival, 218-223
his “Story of Nationalism,” directed against any “party” policy, 222
a true internationalist, 223
not happy in Europe, away from Angora, 219, 264

Hygiene needed in Anatolia 256, 257

“Hymn of Independence,” sung by all Moslems, 238

Idol that was a fountain, 18

_Illeri_ (or Forwards), a newspaper in Constantinople, 229

Imbrie, American commercial attaché, to protect “concessions” and
organise relief, 203
lives in railway salon, 203

Imperial Ottoman Bank now the Bank of Turkey, 204
a bureau of general information, 204
the Governor-General of, 238
Italian director, 237
reference to, 137, 231, 295

Incivility, does not “pay” in diplomacy, 27

India, 25, 58, 59 90, 116, 263

In-Enus, some impressions of the battle, 183, 197, 307

International Red Cross, 299

_Iron Duke_, H.M.S., outside Smyrna, 63

Islam, word means obedience, the reverse of Bolshevism, 90

Ispahan, roses of, 20

Israel has its place in Islam, 92

Ismet Pasha; his duel with Lord Curzon, 197, 299
understands Lord Curzon, 287
public taught to laugh at his pleasantries, 301
“official” treatment from Lord Curzon, 303
depressed by fears he has not done enough for Turkey, 305
dread of war, 305
a soldier, sent to fight a Bismarck, 305
does he, or his Turkish confrères, really trust Lord Curzon, 306, 307
left Constantinople with nothing, returned the head of the Army, 307
no chance of a fair fight with mature British diplomats, 307, 308
makes dangerous concession about Greek Patriarch, 309
works into night, 309
explains his point of view, 309-312
advantages of being deaf for diplomacy, 309
doing his best for peace, but cannot give up the Pact, 309, 310
all agreements with us are held up as “great concessions,” 310
we are offered “one room in our own house,” 310
always met with distrust, 310
chief obstacles to peace: Mosul, finance, judicial capitulations,
reparations, 310
we cannot betray Anatolia, 312
toast of the British Empire and King George, 320
reference to, 137, 183, 194, 199, 298-300, 306

Italy, a bad example, 314

Italian, a wise proverb, 29
guide to Miss Ellison in Athens 36 _et seq._
his inborn courtesy, 37
like a Greek Patrician, 40
sings “La Tosca,” 53
the first at Smyrna; his advice, 67
the second at Smyrna; his advice, 67
the third at Smyrna; his advice, 68
reference to, 61

Izzet Pasha; his Cabinet, 193, 195

Jaffa, 182

“Jane Clegg,” acted by Sybil Thorndike, 28

Japan, 58

Jeanne d’Arc, story from her life, 180 _et seq._

Jerusalem held sacred by Turks, 250

Jews eager to replace Greeks, 161, 274, 275
beginning to “make their profit” out of simple Turks, 275

Johnson, Robert Underwood, formerly American Ambassador at Rome, 300

Judea, 250

Julius Cæsar, search for humour in, 124
compared to M. Kemal, 161

Kada-Keuey, 254

_Kadinlar Dunyassi_, a paper for women, 209

Kaiser, the, 118

Kara-Kuey, 88

Kara Kheuz, _i.e._, Punch-and-Judy show, at a wedding, 189

Karahissar, centre of opium trade, 112

Kassaba, terrible condition of, 75, 77, 102

Kemallidine Pasha, General, 279
learns the difference between an English lady and an English
“temporary gentleman,” 280, 281

Kemal Pasha, Mustapha; the victory of his “rebels,” 27
when he “lifts his little finger,” 29
not a “rebel,” 91
seeks to free Islam from Byzantine heresies, 91
great importance of his choosing the right type of wife, 92
takes over house from Constantine, 94, 95
an American interviewer says he smokes “Players,” 98
women must take their place in life, 102
wisdom to prohibit alcohol, 113
inspired people with almost superstitious confidence, 128
and “the miracle happened,” 129
his “dancing” car, 137
on French Revolution, 153, 181
great civil organiser, 158
requires no “guard,” 159
his true greatness discussed, 159 _et seq._
inspired by his mother’s suffering, 160
difficulties with the Churches, 160
lenient towards Greeks, 161
hard-working and simple home-life, 161 _et seq._
compared to Julius Cæsar, 161
handsome and eloquent, 162, 163
his home, his mother, his opinions, and his life, 163 _et seq._
would be at home in any drawing-room, 164
views on Napoleon, 165, 166
secure in his people’s admiration, 167
disapproves of word “Kemalist” for a “national” movement, 167
not influenced by Bolshevists, 169
more balanced than some of the Deputies, 169
personality can dominate Assembly, 170
might be author’s brother 170
visit to peasants, 171, 172
not easy to understand, 172
an interview with, 174 _et seq._
the “Assembly” is not one man, 174
ultimate confidence in England, 174, 178
hopes that the Conference will bring peace, 175
sympathy with all Christians, 175, 176
views of Constantinople and on freedom of the Straits, 176
must have “national” frontiers, 176
attitude towards minorities, 176, 177
must refuse “privileged” on capitulations, 177
not only soldier, but statesman, 178
some account of his mother, 179
facts of his life, 180 _et seq._
disgusted by brutal methods of General Falkenhayn, 182
appointed Inspector of the East or High Functionary of the Eastern
Villayets, 182
opinions and desire for reform of the harem, 185, 186
his own choice of a wife, 189-191
advocate of “sensible” dress for men and women, 185, 186
wedding-presents to his bride, 189, 190
educated in Rochester, 190
will sweep away harem and other Byzantine heresies, 190, 191
great faith in youth, 192
his task will get harder as country settles to reconstruction, 200
two hundred years ahead of some of his own Ministers, 200
a “tribute” applied from an ancient inscription, 210
supports the “Turc Odjagui,” 222, 223
visits the “Mosque,” with other Deputies, 223
against Byzantian heresies, 238
concerned for Christian minorities, 238
correspondence with the Pope, 243, 244
regrets division between Christian Churches, 244, 245
maintains that Turks have _always_ practised religious tolerance, 245
a real democrat in practice, a reformer loyal to Islam; faith in full
liberty and in his people, 270, 271
driven to arms by Greek’s entry of Smyrna, 314
reference to, 30, 45, 46, 66, 74, 93, 100, 108, 115, 117, 119, 120,
125, 130, 134, 135, 149, 157, 195, 205, 207, 227, 232, 239, 308

Kerr, Philip, private secretary to Lloyd George, 128

Khadidja, poetess and public singer 190

Khalif, the present, 182
must guard the relics, 219
hereditary; the Pope, elected, 249
impressions of several Khalifs, 249, 250

Khandeke, a Circassian tribe, 153

Kiamil Pasha, Grand Vizier to Abdul Hamid, 23
and his daughter, 23-25, 238
his daughter spoken of as my Turkish sister, 120
visits bazaar, 126
her sister-in-law at Pera, 294, 295
teased for growing more advanced but preferring the old ways, 297

Kiazim Pasha, Minister of National Defence; his character, 199

Kipling, Rudyard, his cat, 18

Konia, chief city of Dancing Dervishes, 281

Koran, “an accursed book?” 22,
its precepts, 91
written in Persian, 219
misinterpreted by Hodjas, 230

Krassine M., told of Turkish views on Soviet Government, 27

Kutahia, a dinner-service from, 167

Kurd, population of Mosul, 311

Kurdistan, 234

Lady of Paradise, Mahomet’s daughter, 190

Lamartine, 220

Lasz, the, the President’s guard, 163

Latifée Hanoum, the Pasha’s future wife, 186
educated at Chislehurst, 190

Lausanne, authorities there know nothing of life in Angora, 125
still talk of Turkey that is dead, 140, 160
what can Nationalists do there, 147
told the Assembly was corrupt, 157
ignorance, 168
views of the Delegates, 176
results of Conference, 177, 178
scorn for patriotism of the Turks, 184
duel between Lord Curzon and Ismet Pasha, 197
Halidé Hanoum elected Delegate, but too ill to go, 205
receives Halidé Hanoum’s report of Greek atrocities, 212
English Delegates’ foolish scorn of the Kurd, 234
Conference must produce peace, 287
both sides adopt the method of not listening, 290
will they ever listen to a woman? 290
under the flags of France, Turkey, and Japan, 298
a gay and busy scene, 298
hotel a babel from folk-songs of Anatolia to fox-trots and cocktails,
299
a host of “new” nationalities, all sighing for the (political) moon,
299
French Delegate bullied to bed, 299
first word of a “new” and independent Turkey, 299
can they ever understand? 299, 300
always called Turkey to order, 300
politics all day, 300
luxury for the Press, 300
weakness of journalists, 301-303
more work done than at Genoa, 300
fight out details and ignore important questions, and the Turkish
point of view, 302
wasteful methods of official diplomacy, 304
the real problem of Lausanne, 305
too many Commissions, 306
haunted by memories of Angora, 306
all watch Venizelos, the bird of ill-omen, 307
the first woman diplomatist, 307
British are not so pro-Russian as they have to appear, 308
talks about the Greek Patriarch, 308, 309
Conference will not see what National Pact means to Turkey, 309, 310
everyone meets Turks with distrust, 310
chief obstacles to peace: Mosul, finance, judicial capitulations,
reparations, 310
England and Turkey need each other, 312
Lausanne has _not_ failed, 312
may she learn from mistakes of Versailles, 319
reference to, 159, 174, 186, 208, 223, 228, 272, 313, 317, 318, 320

Law, Mr. Bonar, 141

League of Nations must be impartial and international, 313 _et seq._
unfortunately appears to be anti-Islam, 313
by allowing Greeks to enter Smyrna it drove M. Kemal to arms, 314
should consider the feelings of all nations, 314
report on harems entrusted to Roumanian poetess, not to Halidé
Hanoum, 314, 315
listened to back-stair propaganda of American relief workers, 315
its own Press department distrusts Greek and Armenian propaganda, but
sympathises with the Turk, 315
can only help Christians by putting a stop to pro-Christian
propaganda, 316
what a really international League could do for Turkey, 316, 317
the only way is to put Turkey on Council of League, 317
reference to, 105, 112, 299

Lebouvier, M., Dutch _pasteur_, reports Greek atrocities, 26

Lenin, theories opposed to the Turkish, 150, 159

Life, a story from, 318

_Literary Digest_ quoted, 76

Lloyd George against Turks, 25
his “indiscretions” towards Ambassadors for Angora, 27
what Turkey owes to him, 32
and “our dear Christian brethren,” 38
hated by Greeks, 39
confused with King George, 86
is he not a democrat? 91
his puzzling inconsistency, 92
his policy not the policy of English people, 95
and _Les Misérables_, 127
why does this “democrat” hate Turks, 77, 128
the fallen angel, or modern Nero, 141, 142
says you must speak to Turks “with guns,” 169
“that” Lloyd George, 237
super-bogeyman of the Near East, 257, 258
badly advised, 287
his insults to Turkey not taken seriously, 314
reference to, 78, 101, 108

Loti, Pierre, his dream and interpretation of Turkey, 17 _et seq._
his stories, 18
his Melek and Zeyneb, 19
his “Désenchantés,” 19
steamer so-called, 17 _et seq._
sympathy of her captain, 17 _et seq._
and the Bazaar at Smyrna, 62
his Green Mosque, 278, 279

Lowther, Sir G., Ambassador at Constantinople, 24

Ludendorff, 182

Luggage-train, a painful journey, 89, 90

Lycée for Girls described, 217

MacClure, Mr., tells journalists what to say, 301-303

Mahmoud Bey, smiling aide-de-camp of M. Kemal, 163

Mahmoud Chefket Pasha, 182

Mahmoud Essad Bey, Minister of Economics, studied in Switzerland, 199

Mahmoud II., 289

Mahomet, Prophet of Islam, 22
and his daughter the “Lady of Paradise,” 190
a story with a meaning, 230
_See_ “Prophet of Islam”

Mohammed V., anecdote of, 23

Mallet, Sir Louis, Ambassador at Stamboul, 24

Malta, the home of exiles from Turkey, 29 _et seq._
as a prison, 31
Nationalism for (?), 31
Turks arrested and sent to, 31, 32
anecdotes of its shopkeepers, 34 _et seq._
means patriot, 44
reference to, 36, 132, 144, 148, 155, 157, 193-195, 227, 273

_Manchester Guardian_, unsound on Turkey, 231

Mangal, or charcoal, stove; its dangers and discomforts, 257

Manissa, first halt in Anatolia, 74, 77

Marie, author’s “Catholic” maid in Angora; her ideas about hot bottles,
134, 135

Marienbad, tales of Royalty at, 129, 130

Marriage and brides in Turkey, 187-191

Mary, Princess, 249

Masefield, John, memories of, at the Front, 208

Mecca, visited by “Black” Sultan, 227
_not_ honoured by Christians, 250, 253

Mehmet Emin Bey, of Adalia, leading poet of the Nationalists, 222

Melek, heroine of Pierre Loti, 19, 22 _et seq._

Melle Stanciof, first woman diplomatist, very able, 307

Mentone, 52

Merry de Val, Cardinal, 252

Mesopotamia, 116, 311

Metaxatis, Monseigneur, a Cretan, once Metropolitan of Constantinople,
as Metelios IV., 108

Metelios IV., _see_ “Metaxatis”

Midhat, whose son was the pioneer parliament-maker, 229

Michelet, his “little Assembly,” 153

Milne, 227

Minaret, ascent of and impressions produced, 277

Minorities can only secure protection by loyalty, 316

Minorities Committee; their Norwegian head says Asiatics will never
become Europeans, 316

Missionaries and treacherous propaganda, 240

Mihrinour and her husband in Rome, 251

Moudania, the most depressing town in Anatolia, 283
the historic house in which Peace was signed, 283
reference to, 259, 273, 318

Monsignor X. conducts author to Vatican, 242

Mont Pegasus, ascent of, 62

Morgenthau, Mr., an American who wants to make an ideal republic _á la_
Tammany on the Bosphorus, 76
says States are not disposed to lend, 178

_Morning Post_ quoted on interview with M. Kemal, 177

Moscow plans against India, 178

Mosul, its future, 177
never captured by British, but handed to them by the French, 310, 311
population, Kurd and Turkish, 311
admitted by Sykes-Picot agreement, was not part of Mesopotamia, 311
reference to, 224, 306, 317

“Mother in the Home, The,” an American tale translated by Halidé
Hanoum, 207

Mouche, 182

Moudania Conference, 186, 197

Mouedine Pasha, General, who “taught” M. Kemal and Fethi Bey, 125, 130
his charming sons, 257, 258
start dangerous race between two yailis, 266, 267