Chapter I: Introduction

In the following letters, written during a stay of nine months in the Philippine Islands, I tried to convey to those at home a faithful impression of the country I was in and the people I met. Since I came home I have been advised to collect and prepare certain of my letters for publication, and this I have done to the best of my ability, though with considerable misgivings as to the fate of such a humble little volume.

It is impossible to mention the Philippine Islands, either in daily life in the country itself, or in describing such life, without reference to the political situations which form the topic of most conversations in that uneasy land. On this subject also I wrote to the best of my power, faithfully and impartially; for I hold no brief for the Americans or the Filipinos. I merely aimed at a plain account of those scenes and conversations, generally written within a few hours of my observing them, which, it seemed to me, would best convey a true and unbiassed impression of what I saw of the Philippines as they are.

CONTENTS

PAGE

LETTER I.

MANILA

Journey from Hong Kong. First sight of the Philippine coast.
Manila Bay. The Pasig River. A drive through the streets.
Old Manila. Spanish influences. Manila hotels. The Virgin of
Antipolo. Inter-island steamers. 1

LETTER II.

FROM MANILA TO ILOILO

Beautiful islands. Coin divers. A glimpse of Cebú. The hemp
industry. The Island of Mactan. Magellan. A curious record in
orthography. Fellow-passengers. Soldiers and school-teachers.
American theories. Social and racial equality. The Filipino
race. 8

LETTER III.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF ILOILO

Arrival at Iloilo. Situation of Guimaras and Negros. The Island
of Panay. Climate. House-hunting. Native methods. Conant
coinage. Philippine houses. 15

LETTER IV.

A PHILIPPINE HOUSE—AMERICAN PRICES—NATIVE SERVANTS—FURNITURE

We find a house. Domestic architecture. The Azotea. Results
of American extravagance. Iloilo shops. Filipino servants.
Settling down. Chinese shops. Furniture. “Philippines for the
Filipinos.” Rumours of the Custom House. 22

LETTER V.

HOUSEKEEPING IN ILOILO

Housekeeping. Strange insects. Chinese bread. The washerwoman.
Domestic etiquette. A hawker of orchids. 33

LETTER VI.

A WASTED LAND

The road to Molo. Picturesque scenes. Custom House methods. An
unpleasant surprise. Philippine trading firms. An over-zealous
law. The Philippine bed. Christmas Eve. The tropic dawn.
Christmas Day. The water-supply. Food and drink. Scarcity and
high prices. Book-learning _versus_ agriculture. 42

LETTER VII.

CUSTOMS AND DRESS OF THE NATIVES

A Filipino _Fiesta_. The national hero. Doctor Rizal and his
work. A languid festival. A musical people. Dress of the
native women. _Piña_ muslin. Dress of native men. Scrupulous
cleanliness. A walk on the beach. Gorgeous colouring. 50

LETTER VIII.

SOCIAL AMUSEMENTS

A ball at the Spanish Club. The _Rigodon_. Curious costumes.
Bringing in the New Year. A painful interlude. Position of
Eurasians. New Year’s Day. The suburbs of Iloilo. Filipino
children. 57

LETTER IX.

TARIFFS—INSECTS

More Custom House surprises. Official blunders. House-lizards.
Roof-menageries. _Anting-anting._ Snakes. _Cicadas._ Ants.
Cockroaches. Mosquitoes. 66

LETTER X.

A FILIPINO THEATRE—_CARABAOS_

Dramatic clubs. The Iloilo theatre. An amusing experience. An
operetta. The Jaro road. _Carabaos._ An evening scene by the
river. The fashionable _paseo_. 74

LETTER XI.

SOME RESULTS OF THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION

Heat and drought. Bathrooms. A handsome cow-boy. Cost of
living. Military manners. Camp Josman. The Government of
the Philippines. A “pull.” An arbitrary tax. The Plaza
Libertad. Effects of fire and bombardment. Story of the
American occupation. Unwelcome saviours. A pretty garden. The
“unemployed.” Scale of wages. A Philippine cabstand. Filipino
dignity. A charming scene. 82

LETTER XII.

CHINESE NEW YEAR—LABOUR CONDITIONS—A CINÉMATOGRAPH SHOW

The Chinese New Year. Question of Chinese labour. A
cinématograph entertainment. Unpleasant habits. An interesting
audience. Diplomatic warfare. A half “’cute” native. A Filipino
philosopher. Tropical rain. 95

LETTER XIII.

SOME INFLUENCES OF CLIMATE, SCENERY, AND RELIGION

The _Rainbow_. Sugar industry. A beautiful view. Unchanging
charms. “Always afternoon.” The fascination of the East.
Missionaries. A keen advocate. La Iglesia Filipina
Independiente. 103

LETTER XIV.

VOYAGE TO MANILA

A journey to Manila. The mail steamer. Food for Esquimaux. A
comfortable night. Dream Islands. Dress for Europeans. Manila.
The harbour. Curious reasoning. American hustling. A charming
house. The Luneta. 110

LETTER XV.

AN OFFICIAL ENTERTAINMENT

Evening on the Pasig River. Malacañan Palace. An evening
_fête_. The Arms of the Philippines. “The Gubernatorial party.”
“Manila at a glance.” The Gibson Girl. An amusing episode. A
drive in Manila. The fashions. Manila shops. A market for the
best diamonds. A “mixed” wedding. 120

LETTER XVI.

MANILA AND ITS INHABITANTS

The suburbs of Manila. Hawks. A nursery-garden. Orchids. By
the bandstand in the evening. Manila society. A city of cards.
Intramuros. Americanised Filipinos. The American Ideal. Blind
pride. Bilibid prison. Arts and crafts. The “Exposition” and
the inquiring voter. The Philippine sky. A steamer on fire.
A procession of death and degradation. “Sport.” A visit to
Malacañan. A beautiful woman. Some lovely embroideries. Manila
prices. Mr Taft and his Chinese servants. 128

LETTER XVII.

DEMOCRACY AND SOCIETY IN MANILA

A _Mestizo_ party. Seeking for democracy. And finding
aristocracy. A shopping expedition. Chinese enterprise. Bridge
again. A devotee and enthusiast. 143

LETTER XVIII.

THE RETURN VOYAGE AND MY COMPANIONS

Home letters. The Simla of Manila. The return journey to
Iloilo. A crowded ship. My cabin-mate. Filipino schoolboys.
The first-fruits of the American Ideal. Filipino manners. Some
Filipino views. Philippine Spanish. Dawn at the mouth of the
Iloilo River. Expensive religion. Wonderful costumes. Lax port
authorities. A hearty welcome home. 151

LETTER XIX.

A _BAILE_—A NEW COOK AND AMERICAN METHODS

Carnival festivities. Lenten relaxations. A Palais Royale farce
at the Filipino Club. “Hiawatha.” At a _baile_. A walk through
the town. A Chinese graveyard. A troublesome cook. Wily native
ways. A change of staff. Municipal marvels. _Noblesse oblige._ 161

LETTER XX.

FILIPINO INDOLENCE—A DROUGHT

The rising thermometer. A Filipino watering-cart. A harrowing
story. The Filipino employé. _Mañana._ A demonstration in
racial equality. More drought. A new acquisition. 169

LETTER XXI.

THE WHARVES—AN OLD SPANIARD

Roofs of Philippine houses. A walk along the quay. Chinese
sailors. A mistaken policy. Native shops. Curious cigars.
Desolate mud-flats. One of the results of high wages. A Spanish
courtier. _Los Indianos._ A cause for panic. 174

LETTER XXII.

A TRIP TO GUIMARAS—AN ASTONISHING PROPOSAL—HOUSEBUILDING

A little trip on the sea. Marvellous scenery. The ship of the
Ancient Mariner. Coast villages. A band in the Plaza. Oriental
tastes. The difference of Eastern and Western minds. Little
comedies. How we drive in Iloilo. An importunate visitor.
Strange American customs. A peaceful scene in the sunset.
Building a house. 182

LETTER XXIII.

A TROPICAL SHOWER—OUR SERVANTS—FILIPINO CUSTOMS

The mails. A good butler. “The inevitable _muchacho_.” Palm
Sunday. Negritos. Curly hair. Beggars. A Filipino funeral. 191

LETTER XXIV.

EASTER FESTIVITIES

Easter holidays. Superfluous precautions. A gruesome
procession. The Funeral of Christ. Rival religionists. A
midnight pageant. A pretty procession. Happy children. A dull
_baile_. 195

LETTER XXV.

A DAY AT NAGABA

A trip to Nagaba. A native house. The “Philippine cuckoo.”
_Nipa_ thatch. Ylang-Ylang. A swimming-bath. A stroll along
the rocks. A fisherman’s hut. Country-folk. The village.
Pig-scavengers. The fire-tree. The _tuba_ man. Mistaken
temperance enthusiasts. Cocoanut-growing. 202

LETTER XXVI.

THE MONSOON—AN ITALIAN OPERA COMPANY

Love-birds. Traces of the Filipino mind. The S.-W. Monsoon.
Typhoons. A horrible custom. A wandering Opera Company.
Increasing heat. 210

LETTER XXVII.

A WEEK-END AT NAGABA

The departure for Nagaba. An amusing landing. Morning on the
beach. A fish _corral_. Trading vessels. A native kitchen.
Betel-nut. A row up the river. Up in the woods. A magnificent
prospect. Wild fruits. A primitive hut. The simple life. The
American theory of education before food. Wanted a Colonial
Office. Harlequins of crab-land. The tropic night. Fishing by
torchlight. A _parao_. Skilful sailorising. Home again. 215

LETTER XXVIII.

A LITTLE EARTHQUAKE, AND AN OPERA COMPANY UNDER DIFFICULTIES

A slight earthquake. Grand opera under difficulties. Barbaric
laughter. The exodus to Hong Kong. Vagaries of the Monsoon. 226

LETTER XXIX.

AN EVENING ON THE RIVER—RIVAL BISHOPS

Evening on the Iloilo River. Pleasant natives. A
cocoanut-grove. The _bolo_. Green cocoanut. Salt pits. More
trouble with the Customs. The verdict of Solomon. A hopeless
grievance. Curiosities of taxation. Religious enthusiasm. Rival
bishops. The Cardinal Delegate and the Aglipayano Monsignore.
The Plaza at Jaro. A handsome old belfry. The Angelus. Peace
and goodwill. 231

LETTER XXX.

PHILIPPINE SANITATION—DECORATION DAY

The coolness of 90°. A letter from Benguet. Expense of
travelling. Baby mongeese. Native neighbours. The sanitary
control. An appeal to _verguenza_. An ill-kept town. An inhuman
custom. The new hospital. Decoration Day. Digging up American
soldiers. Unwholesome sentimentality. 239

LETTER XXXI.

MR TAFT—TROPICAL SUNSETS—UNPLEASANT NEIGHBOURS—FILIPINO LAW

News of the coming of Mr Taft and his party. Miss Alice
Roosevelt. A simple-minded damsel. Relaxing wind. By the Molo
road. A lovely scene. An Eurasian household. A melodrama. And a
farce. A flitting. Filipino justice. 247

LETTER XXXII.

OUR MONGEESE—A FIRE—THE NATIVE EDUCATION QUESTION

A distressing malady. Habits of my mongeese. An alarm of fire.
A strange state of affairs. “Arbitrary race-distinctions.”
Undemonstrable theories. 255

LETTER XXXIII.

A PAPER-CHASE—LACK OF SPORTS—PREPARATIONS FOR MR TAFT

A paper-chase. Lack of sports. Ladies astride. A problem for Mr
Taft. Amusing headlines. Sad little pets. 260

LETTER XXXIV.

TRYING HEAT—AN AMERICAN PROSPECTOR—NEW LODGERS—BARGAINING
FOR _PIÑA_

Damp heat. An enterprising millionaire. New neighbours. A happy
household. Buying _piña_ muslin. 265

LETTER XXXV.

DECLARATION DAY—THE CULT OF THE FLAG—A PROCESSION,
FESTIVITIES, AND A BALL

Declaration Day. The cult of the Stars and Stripes. An
angry critic. The procession. American officers. Methods
of horsemanship. A cruel vanity. American soldiers. The
Veteran Army of the Philippines. “Little brown brothers.”
Representative parades. Celebrations in the Plaza. Strange
developments of athletics. A melancholy contrast. Official ball
at the _Gobierno_. An ardent anti-Taftite. An amusing assembly.
Unconventional bandsmen. A keen pro-Filipino. An ill-bred
_Mestiza_. Balancing a _quilez_. Some of the drawbacks of
civilisation. 270

LETTER XXXVI.

COCK-FIGHTING—PULAJANES

A sad loss. The Filipino and his fighting-cock. Tricks of the
ring. Off to the front. Peace and prosperity. A horrible story.
A plague of flies. A slovenly guest. The poll-tax and some of
its workings. 286

LETTER XXXVII.

A PEARL OF GREAT PRICE

Philippine flowers. A town of swamps. Monotonous scenery.
Hawking a pearl. Pearl fisheries. Plentiful fish-supply. 292

LETTER XXXVIII.

AGRICULTURAL POSSIBILITIES

A Gymkhana on the beach. An _alfresco_ domestic servant agency.
Road-mending. The foreign cemetery. Justice for the white man.
Treatment of servants. The Filipino tiller of the soil. Wasted
opportunities. A terrible disease. Some native fruits, and some
more wasted opportunities. A welcome invitation. 295

LETTER XXXIX.

A LAST DAY AT NAGABA—THE “SECWAR”

Farewell to Nagaba. The three-card trick. The Secret Police.
A pleasant sail. Through the village. A native shop. Corn
pone. An Anglipayano church. An idyll. Filipino coffee. Lack
of American enterprise. A strange word. The coming of the
_Secwar_. Human mosquitoes. A familiar type of character. 301

LETTER XL.

PREPARATIONS

Preparations for the Patron Saint. Arcadian animals. Mr Taft’s
intentions. Determined patriots. A famous phrase. The blessings
of a free press. American altruism. Political Pecksniffs. The
spell of indolence. 310

LETTER XLI.

THE FESTIVITIES

The _Comitiva Taft_. A reception that failed. Unappreciative
guests. The decorations. A culinary treat. A call in the dark
before the dawn. Gay streets. The visitors. “Miss Alice.” Mr
Taft. The “Taft smile.” Looking for equality. A well-instructed
journalist. Floats. Some strange banners. Mr Taft’s opinions.
An amusing _contre-temps_. A very informal reception. A
little mistake in tact. The banquet. Disappointed admirers.
A haphazard feast. The mermaid. Speeches. A fiery patriot.
Instructive applause. A splendid orator. Mr Taft’s mission. Two
critics. 315

LETTER XLII.

WEIGHING ANCHOR

An Iloilo hotel. A faithful servant. Complaisant Americans.
Echoes of the visitation. Skilful reporting. A disappointed
well-wisher. 337