Chapter IX: Part 9

When the boats returned on board, the officer reported, that the sea broke on all parts of the coast, that he had found only one small river, that the land is every where covered with wood, and that the mountains run down close to the sea-shore.

The natives dwell on the mountains, but they have a few huts on the banks of some of the small creeks.--Some of them followed one of the ship’s boats, and seemed almost resolved on an attack; and one of the Indians repeatedly put himself in an attitude to have thrown his lance; but he desisted from his purpose, and no mischief was done.

Mons. Bougainville says, that he was now advanced too far to return; but that he hoped to find a passage, though the weather was so foggy that he could not discern any object at the distance of more than two leagues.

In the morning of the 1st of July, the ships were just in the station they had quitted the preceding night, having been impelled forward, and driven back, by the tides.

Nothing remarkable happened but the discovery of a _Race_, in the middle of a passage, to which was given the name of _Dennis’s Race_, from that of the master of the Boudeuse.

A race is a part of any channel or streight, where there are opposing tides, or a rapid and dangerous current; and such are even sometimes met with in the open seas.

Boats were now sent to find anchorage in a fine bay; and the account of their expedition is as follows.--That a number of Indian boats, in which were a hundred and fifty of the natives, armed with shields, lances, and bows, came from the banks of a rivulet on which their habitations were situated, and rowed hastily towards the French boats, which they surrounded, and, with hideous outcries, began the attack with their bows and lances. The French discharged their muskets; but the natives covering themselves with their shields, the fight continued, till a second firing terrified them so, that they made a hasty retreat, some of them swimming on shore.

Two of their boats were taken, on the stern of which was the figure of a man’s head with a long beard, the eyes being mother-of-pearl, the ears tortoiseshell, and the lips were dyed a bright red. Exclusive of their weapons and utensils, there were found in their boats cocoa-nuts, and several fruits, the species of which were not known, the jaw of a man, half broiled, and various other things.

The natives of this coast are negroes, whose hair curls naturally, and they have a method of colouring it yellow, red, and white. Their cloathing consists only of a piece of matting round the waist. This river received the name of _Warrior’s River_, and the whole spot, that of the _Isle and Bay of Choiseul_.

Two days afterwards a cape was discovered, which was called _Cape L’Averdi_, on which were mountains of an astonishing height. On the 4th other mountainous land was discovered, from which came off five or six Indians, and, after lying on their oars some time, they accepted some trifles which were thrown to them. They now exhibited some cocoa-nuts, saying, _bouca, bouca, onelle!_ and seemed greatly pleased when the French repeated them. They then intimated, that they would fetch some cocoa-nuts, but they had scarcely left the ship’s side, when one of them discharged an arrow, by which, however, no person was wounded.

The people were altogether naked, had long ears, bored, and curled short hair, which some of them had dyed red, and they had also white spots on their bodies. Their teeth were red, probably from the chewing of betel.

This island, which was named _Bouka_, appeared to be cultivated, and, from the number of huts that were seen, it probably abounds with inhabitants.--The cocoa-nut, and other trees, dispersed over a beautiful plain, was a sufficient temptation for landing; but the rapidity of the current prevented the possibility of it.

Two more islands were seen on the 5th, and, as the wood and water were expended, and disease reigning aboard, the Commodore resolved to land here, and, on the following afternoon, the ships came to an anchor. The casks were sent on shore, and tents erected for the sick, on a commodious spot, where there were four rivulets near together, and where wood for the carpenters and joiners use, as well as for burning, was very plenty; there were no inhabitants near the place, so that the sick had an opportunity of ranging the woods, fearless of any attack from the natives, and every thing seemed to conspire to render this spot the most eligible imaginable; but there was one great inconvenience, no fruit could be found.

Two huts were discovered on the bank of a rivulet, not far from the encampment, and a boat, near which were seen the remains of fires, some calcined shells, and the skeletons of some animals heads, which were taken for those of the wild boar. Some fresh bananas were found, which proves, that the natives had but lately left the place.

This island produces a large, blue crested pigeon, which has so plaintive a note, that the seamen mistook it for the cries of men towards the mountains.

Mons. Bougainville now relates an extraordinary incident. A seaman being looking for shells, found a plate of lead buried in the sand, on which the following letters were very visible.

HOR’D HERE
ICK MAJESTY’s

The mark of the nails with which the lead had been fastened appeared; and it is plain, that the natives must have torn off the plate and broken it.

This circumstance gave rise to a diligent search, and, at about six miles from the watering-place, the very spot was found where the English had formed their encampment. Several trees were seen which had been felled, and others which were sawn in pieces. A very large and conspicuous tree was found, on which the inscription had been nailed; it stood in the midst of a spacious place, and it appeared, that the plate had been pulled down but a very short time. There were other trees, to which the ends of ropes were fastened. One of the trees which had been cut down had put forth fresh twigs, apparently of the growth of four months. Mons. Bougainville mentions it as a very singular circumstance, that, amidst so many islands, he should happen to land on that so lately visited by a rival nation!

Diligent search was now made for food and refreshments, but almost in vain; for nothing could be found but a few cabbage-trees, and thatch-palms. No fish could be catched, and, though a few wild boars were seen, not one of them was taken. A small number of pigeons were indeed shot, the feathers of which were of green and gold.

It will be needless to mention the other products of this island, as the reader has already had an account of them in the narrative of the English voyages.

No time was now lost in the necessary repairs of the ships; and an equal division was made of the provisions, which now began to run extremely short. A third part of the late allowance of pease was taken off. From the Commodore to the lowest person on board, all fared alike: their situation, like death, banished all distinction.

On the 13th there was an eclipse of the sun, which was clearly seen, and the proper astronomical and nautical remarks made on it. The name of _Port Praslin_ was given to this harbour, an inscription having been first buried under the spot where the eclipse had been observed.

The Etoile being a light vessel, and there being no stones to ballast her, after the provisions had been taken out, this important business was necessarily performed with wood; a fatiguing and unwholesome task, in so damp a country.

An insect of a most wonderful texture was found on this island, the body and wings of which appeared so much like the leaf of a tree, as scarcely to be distinguished from it, even on a nice inspection. When the wings are extended, each forms the half of a leaf, and when they are closed it is entire. The upper side of the body is of a brighter hue than the under parts; and it has six legs, the upper joints of which resemble parts of leaves. This curiosity was preserved in spirits, and is in the cabinet of the French King.

A sailor who was hauling the fishing-net, in search of a scarce fish called the hammer-oyster, having been bit by a snake, whose bite is poisonous, was cured in a few hours by a profuse perspiration, produced by taking flower-de-luce water and treacle.

Aotourou having remarked the progress of the cure, intimated, that at Otaheite there were sea-snakes, whose bite is mortal in every instance.

On the 22d repeated shocks of an earthquake were felt for about two minutes. The sea rose and fell several times, so that the concussions were felt on board the ships.

Notwithstanding the extreme bad weather which prevailed, the crews, divided into separate parties, went to the woods every day, in hopes to shoot some turtle-doves, and gather cabbage-trees and thatch-palms; but it generally happened, that they returned without any success, and wet to the skin. At length, however, they found some mangle apples, and a kind of pruens; but too late to be of much service, as they were now on the point of departure. A kind of ivy was successfully applied in the cure of the scurvy.

An immense cascade was seen, falling from numerous rocks into a hundred basons of water, and at once shaded and adorned by stately trees, some of which grow even in the reservoirs, is recommended by Mons. Bougainville as a subject fit to exercise the fancy of the boldest painter--Why did not his limner make a drawing of it?

The situation of the ships companies now became so dreadful, that no more time could be lost.--In the afternoon of the 24th a favourable breeze enabled the ships to get out to sea.

Mons. Bougainville remarks, that this country must be NEW BRITAIN, and that the great bay must be the same which Dampier calls St. George’s Bay; but that he had the happiness to land on a part of it where his wants could be supplied by the inhabitants.

A succession of islands having been seen in the offing, Mons. Bougainville named them after the officers.--The field-tents were now cut up, to make trowsers for the seamen, who had been repeatedly clothed during the voyage, to enable them to sustain the inclemencies of so many different climates. But the last change of cloathing was now delivered out, and at this period an ounce of bread was deducted from their scanty allowance. Their salt provisions were now so bad, as to be nauseous in a high degree; yet their starving situation impelled them to feed on them; but even at this melancholy period, no one yielded himself a prey to melancholy. The sailors, influenced by the example of the officers, employed every evening in dancing, dispelling, by their mirth, some of the pangs of hunger.--Happy Frenchmen! who could be thus mirthful, in the jaws of apparent destruction!

New Britain continued in sight till the beginning of August, when the ships being nearer the land than they had been before, several Indian boats came off, the crews of which were negroes, with woolly heads, which they had covered with white powder. They are tall and active, and wore no other cloaths than leaves round the middle. They held out something that had the appearance of bread, and invited the French to land; but they refused to enter the ships, though an attempt was made to conciliate their friendship, by presents of some pieces of stuff. They accepted what was given, and threw a stone from a sling in return; instantly retreating, with loud vociferations.

On the following day a larger number assembled along side the Boudeuse; a person, who had the appearance of authority, carried a red staff, knobbed at each end, in his hand. On approaching the ship, he held his hands over his head for a considerable time. The hair of these negroes was painted red; some of them were adorned with feathers, ear-rings made of the seed of some herb, or circular plates depending from their necks; others had the nose pierced, and rings ran through it; but the general ornament was a bracelet made of the half of a shell. The French were anxious to conciliate the esteem of these people, but in vain; they eagerly grasped at whatever was given them, but would make no present in return. The roots of a few yams were all that could be obtained from them. Two of their boats being observed approaching in the night, a rocket was fired, on which they instantly rowed off.

On the 31st a number of Indian boats attacked the Etoile with a volley of stones and arrows; but a single discharge of the musquetry got rid for ever of these troublesome companions.

On the 4th of August two islands were seen, which are conjectured to be the same which Dampier distinguishes by the name of _Matthias_ and _Stormy_, or _Squally_, Island. On the 5th a third island was seen, and then the northern point of New Britain, which lies only forty one minutes south of the land.

On the 7th a flat island was seen, covered with trees, abounding with cocoa-nuts, and certainly well inhabited, as appeared from the great number of houses that were seen on the shore. Fishing-boats in multitudes surrounded the island; but the fishermen took no notice of the ships. This received the name of the _Isle of Anchorets_. On the following day a prodigious number of small islands was seen, when Mons. Bougainville having escaped the most imminent dangers, in the endeavour to double this chain of islands, at length happily effected his point, in consequence of a breeze which still freshened with the rising sun.

He now continued to range the coast till he came within sight of two lofty peaks, to which he gave the name of the two Cyclops. On the 15th two high mountains were discovered on the continent, and two small islands near them.

On the 23d two other islands being discovered, an attempt was made to land, in the hope of obtaining refreshments; but this was found impracticable, but by the boats, the Commanding officer of which reported, that the islands were totally uninhabited, and that no fruits grew which were fit to be eaten.

This day the ships crews were twice alarmed; the first time with a report from aloft, that a range of breakers were seen a-head; but this proved to be only the rippling of a strong tide; the second alarm was from the fore-castle, where it was declared, that the bottom of the sea was visible under the ship’s way. This shoal was perceived by the crew of the Etoile, but was easily escaped by both the ships. Monsieur Denys, first Master of the Boudeuse, died this day of the scurvy, to the infinite regret of the whole ship’s company. At this time upwards of forty persons were ill of the same disorder, the progress of which was stopped by the plentiful use of wine and lemonade.

It was now thought necessary to stear a southerly course, in order to get clear of the islands by which they were surrounded. None of these islands appeared to be inhabited, though all of them were cloathed with verdure. During the following night they sailed out of this labyrinth, through a channel about three leagues in breadth. Early in the morning they doubled the southernmost of a number of small islands on each side of this channel, which was denominated the _French Passage_. On the 26th, in the morning, they passed the meridian for the fifth time, and early the next day had sight of a small island to the south-east; they likewise saw a steep hill, remarkably high, to which they gave the name of _Big Thomas_; near which are three small islands.

They had sight of several islands on the 27th and 28th, when Mons. Bougainville gave orders for a boat belonging to the Etoile to steer to the south-westernmost of these isles in search of anchorage, and to enquire if they produced any thing worthy of notice. The boat having landed on two islands, which neither produced any fruits, nor appeared to be cultivated, and indicated no signs of being inhabited, the ship was on the point of returning, when an Indian rowed up to the ship’s boat, without expressing the least sign of fear or astonishment. The Frenchmen intimated, that they wanted food and liquor; on which he presented them with a kind of meal, and some water; in return for which they gave him a looking-glass, a handkerchief, and some other trifles, which he received with indifference, and laughed at the donors. It was conjectured, that this negroe had deserted from one of the adjacent islands which have been settled by the Dutch. The number of them were formerly seven, but they are now reduced to five by earthquakes. The crew of the Boudeuse took a turtle on this spot of not less than two hundred weight.

Early in the morning of the 31st our voyagers had sight of the island of Ceram, which runs in a parallel east and west, abounds in lofty mountains, and is partly cleared, and partly in its original state. A great number of fires were seen on this island, which seem to intimate that it is well peopled. Early in the morning, on the first of September, our adventurers found themselves at the entrance of a bay, on the banks of which they beheld a number of fires; they soon observed two boats under sail, constructed on the plan of those of Malay. A Dutch pendant was now hoisted, and a gun fired but the Commodore confesses his error in this procedure, as the people at Ceram are at variance with the Dutch, whom they have almost totally routed from their island. Mons. Bougainville having been thus unsuccessful, through mistake, returned from the bay, and employed the rest of the day in plying between the islands _Bonao_, _Kelang_, and _Manepo_.

Some time before midnight, a number of fires attracted their attention to the island of Boero, where there is a Dutch factory, well provided with the necessary refreshments.

The above-mentioned Dutch factory is at the entrance of the Gulph of _Cajeli_, which the French had sight of at day-break. Their joy on this occasion is not to be expressed; for at this time not half of the seamen were able to perform any duty; and the scurvy had raged so violently, that no man on board was perfectly clear of it. What few provisions were on board were absolutely rotten, and stunk intolerably.

Thus circumstanced, their change of situation must have been rapturous indeed! From midnight the fragrant breeze had wafted the aromatic flavour of the plants, which abound in the Moluccas. “The aspect (says our author) of a pretty large town, situated in the bottom of a gulph, of ships at anchor there, and cattle rambling through the meadows, caused transports which I have doubtless felt, but which I cannot here describe.” Our Commodore hoisted Dutch colours, and fired a gun; but though several boats were sailing in the bay, none of them came along-side. In a few hours a periagua, rowed by Indians, advanced towards the ship, and the commanding officer enquired in Dutch who they were; but refused to go on board. Mons. Bougainville, however, proceeded under all his sails, and in the afternoon came to an anchor opposite the factory.

Two Dutch soldiers, one of whom spoke French, now came on board the Boudeuse, demanding the reason of the Commodore’s entering that port, when he must know that the ships of the Dutch East India Company had an exclusive right to that privilege. He was answered, in brief, that necessity was the motive; that hunger must preclude the force of treaties, and that they would depart as soon as their wants were supplied.

The soldiers soon returned with the copy of an order from the Governor of Amboyna, who presides over the Resident at Boero, forbidding him to admit foreign ships into that port. The Resident, therefore, entreated Mons. Bougainville to declare, in writing, the cause of his putting in there; that he might transmit such declaration to the Governor of Amboyna, in justification of his own conduct.

This request being complied with, all difficulties were at an end; the Resident having performed his duty as a servant of the Company, was anxious to discharge the superior duties of humanity. The Commodore and his Officers visited him on shore, were received in the most friendly manner, and accepted his invitation to supper.

The Resident and his company beheld with equal pleasure and surprize the effects that hunger had on the appetites of the guests; nor were they willing to eat themselves, least they should deprive their now too happy visitants of their full share of their repast. Mons. Bougainville confesses, that he was supremely happy, because he had previously sent on board what would be an equal feast to both the ships companies. A contract was now made, that, while the ships should remain in that harbour, venison should be daily supplied to the crews, that eighteen oxen, a number of sheep and poultry, and a quantity of rice (to supply the place of bread) should be put on board. The Resident was likewise obliging enough to furnish the sick with a quantity of pulse from the Company’s garden; but much could not be obtained, as it is not generally cultivated on the island.

The sick were now brought on shore, and the majority of the seamen were likewise indulged in walking about for their health and pleasure. The Commodore hired the slaves belonging to the Company to fill the water casks, and to carry the several necessaries on board.

Mons. Bougainville and his officers were gratified with the pleasure of stag hunting, and he mentions the deer of this country as most exquisite food. The Dutch originally transported them hither. This island is described as a delightful composition of woods, hills, plains, and well-watered vallies.

The town of Cajeli, and about fourteen Indian dwellings, formed the Dutch settlement. A stone fort, which the Dutch had originally erected, was accidentally blown up in the year 1689; since which time it has no enclosure but that of palisadoes, with a battery of six small cannons. About fifty white people are all that reside on the island, of whom a Serjeant and twenty-five men, commanded by the Resident, form a part. The negroes who reside in the interior parts of the country subsist by the cultivation of rice.

The _Moors_ and the _Alfourians_ are the genuine natives of this country; the former are protected by the Dutch factory, who endeavour to inspire them with the dread of all foreigners. These people are principally kept in awe by the influence of their own Chiefs, for whom the Dutch Resident professes a sincere regard. Dutch policy, in this, as in all their other settlements, is the same; by fomenting a jealousy among the Chiefs of their respective dependants, a plot is no sooner formed by one Chief, than it is revealed by another. The natives of Boero are not treated as slaves by the Dutch; their slaves being procured from the islands of Ceram, or Celebes.

Unlimited freedom and independence appear to reign among the Alfourians, who, residing on the mountains in the interior parts of the island subsist on the produce of their hunting, with fruits and sago. It is presumed they are not Mahometans, because they eat swines flesh. The principal people among the Alfourians pay occasional visits to the Dutch Resident; “they would do as well (says our author) to stay at home.”

The chief products of this island are various kinds of wood, particularly black and white ebony; and there is a fine plantation of pepper. The fruits are pine-apples, citrons, lemons, bitter oranges, shaddocks, bananas and cocoa-nuts. Very good barley is likewise a produce of this country.

Parrots, and a variety of other birds, many of them extremely beautiful, abound in the woods. There is likewise the wild cat, whose bag under the belly serves for the conveyance of its young. Bats, and serpents of an enormous size, the latter of which are said to have a swallow capacious enough for the reception of a whole sheep. There is a snake too, which, posting itself on the trees, darts into the eye of the passenger who happens to look up, and the bite of this animal is certain death.

Crocodiles of an astonishing size reside on the banks of the rivers, devouring such beasts as fall in their way; and men are only protected from their fury by carrying torches in their hands. Mons. Bougainville asserts, that these crocodiles, which roam for prey in the night, have been even known to seize people in their boats.

The name of the Resident at Buero is Ouman; he is by birth a Batavian, and is married to a native of Amboyna. He lives in great elegance and splendour, and is attended by no less than a hundred slaves. Mons. Bougainville speaks of his politeness and hospitality in very high terms. After having twice regaled the French Officers in the ceremonious way, he bid adieu to all set forms, but his house was constantly open to them, as their own; they always found good viands and liquors, and our author thinks this was no inconsiderable degree of civility to persons who had so lately been on the point of starving.

The Resident’s house is constructed in the Chinese taste, in the middle of a garden, which is intersected by a river: the house itself is a handsome building, and it is elegantly furnished. Its approach is through an avenue of trees, which are planted down to the sea-side. The wife and daughter were habited in the Chinese manner, and were no way deficient in the essential requisites of good breeding. Their chief employment consists in making nosegays, and selecting flowers proper for distillation.

The astonishment of Aotourou, at this first sight of an European settlement, may be more easily conceived than described. He regarded every object with an intenseness of curiosity scarcely to be satisfied; but he was particularly charmed with the hospitality of the Dutch. He supposed every thing freely given, as he did not see any thing returned by way of barter. Mons. Bougainville says, that he behaved sensibly with respect to the Dutch, to whom he intimated the consequence he was of in his own country, and that his present voyage was merely pleasurable with friends whom he esteemed. His constant practice was to imitate the manners of the French, both in their visits, and in their rural amusements. The knees of this Indian being distorted, he attributed, to that circumstance, his not being taken with the Commodore on his first visit to the Resident, and actually desired some of the seamen to press their weight on his knees, to make them strait.--This, surely, is no great proof of that good sense which Mons. Bougainville has frequently hinted that Aotourou was possessed of!--This islander would frequently enquire if Paris was as grand a place as Boero.

Though the French were only six days on shore, the healthful air of the place had so far recovered the sick, that, by the help of the refreshments now ready to be put on board, it was very possible to perfect the cure at sea.

The sick people were conveyed to the ships in the morning of the 7th, and before evening every one was on board, in expectation of the land breeze, by which, after much difficulty in weighing the anchor, they were enabled to sail about an hour before midnight, and got clear of the gulph of Cajeli before morning.

Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to a recital of the incidents which occurred during his passage from Boero to Batavia, in which we shall trace him with all necessary exactness.

Having coasted the island of Boero, the isles of Manipa and Kilang were seen on the morning of the 8th, and on the 9th they had sight of the island of Xullabessic, where the Dutch have a factory, named _Cleverblad_, that is, the Clover-leaf. There is a garrison, consisting of twenty-five men, under the discipline of a Serjeant, and commanded by a person who holds no higher rank than book-keeper to the Dutch East India Company.

On the 10th the Commodore buried his taylor, who fell a sacrifice to the scurvy, encreased, when on the point of cure, by an excessive drinking of brandy.

On the morning of the 11th they had sight of the island of Wawoni, and in a few hours saw that of Button, the streights of which they entered on the following day, and observed a vessel of a square form, ranging the shore, and towing a periagua. The French ships were no sooner observed by this vessel, than she furled her sail, and concealed herself behind a small island. A French seaman, whom Mons. Bougainville had engaged at Boero, said, that the vessel in question was manned by a set of Indian pirates, who made a practice of taking prisoners, in order to sell them.

In the afternoon the ships sailed by a beautiful port on the coast of Celebes, the view of which land is delightfully variegated by mountains, hills, and vallies, and clothed with an exuberance of verdure. In a few hours afterwards the island of Pangasani was in sight, to the northward of which appeared the highest mountains of Celebes. Pangasani is a flat island, abounding in trees, and our author conjectures, that it produces spices; it is, however, certain, that it is well inhabited, from the number of fires that were seen on it during the night.

On the morning of the 13th the ships were surrounded with Indian boats, bringing parroquets, cockatoes, fowls, eggs, and bananas, which the natives sold for Dutch money, or exchanged for knives. These people were inhabitants of a considerable district on the mountains of Button, opposite the place where the ships lay at anchor. On this spot the land is cleared and cultivated, the property of different persons, being divided by ditches. Some of the fields are enclosed by hedges, and there are houses in these fields; besides which there are several villages.

The produce of the country consists in potatoes, yams, rice, maize, &c. and the bananas are deemed as good as in any part of the world. Pine-apples, mangle apples, cocoa-nuts, and citrons, are very plentiful. The natives are of a brown complexion, ordinary features, and of low stature. They profess the Mahometan faith, and speak the language common in the Molucca isles. They are very honest, though expert traders.--They offered Mons. Bougainville some pieces of coarse cotton cloth; but he does not say whether he dealt with them or not; he asked them for some nutmegs, which they said they procured from the island of Ceram, and in the neighbourhood of Banda; and his remark is, that the Dutch cannot supply them from those places.

Our author describes the coast of Pangasani as rising in the form of an amphitheatre, from the level of the coast, which he imagines is frequently overflowed, because the dwellings of the natives were observed to be situated on the slope of the hills. The people of Button consider the inhabitants of Pangasani as pirates, and each party is provided against the attacks of the other by a dagger, which is always worn, stuck in the girdle.

The ships sailed on the morning of the 14th, but coming to an anchor in a few hours afterwards, a number of periaguas surrounded the Boudeuse, one of which hoisting Dutch colours, the rest retreated, that she might come along side. It appeared, that in this boat was one of the Chiefs of the country, to whom alone the Dutch permit the distinction of carrying their colours.

Our Commodore sailed again on the 15th, and in the afternoon of that day dispatched his barge after a boat which was seen in a large bay, with a view to procure a pilot; and the boat readily came, having an Indian on board, who, for thirteen shillings, readily engaged in the pilotage: but his intended services were rendered unnecessary, by the sun happening to shine with great lustre on a spot which directed their passing out of the channel.

As opposing winds and tides now obliged the ships to come to an anchor, the periaguas came off in great numbers, bringing pieces of cotton, articles of curiosity, and variety of refreshments. At the approach of evening the ships got clear of the narrow pass, and anchored in Bouton Bay.

Mons. Bougainville gives an animated description of the passage he had just cleared. The coast of Button abounds in enclosures proper for the catching fish, while the rising grounds are bespread with habitations. The opposite shore is perpendicular; and after passing the galley, both sides are steep, hanging in some places over the channel. “One would think (says our author,) that the god of the sea had opened a passage here for the swelled waters, by a stroke of his trident.”--Might he not as well have said, that the great God of Nature is equally wise and wonderful in all his works?--The coast of Pangasani has two or three houses on it, though it is little else than a solid rock, yet well cloathed with trees.

The Indian pilot above-mentioned gave the best instructions in his power, respecting the mode of passing this gut; but he appeared totally unskilled in the European art of navigation. Another Indian, supposed to be the pilot’s father, went on board the Boudeuse in the morning, and remained till the evening. They both drank plentifully of brandy, but would eat only bananas and chew betel, absolutely refusing to taste of the ship’s provisions.

On the morning of the 17th, while the ships were under sail, the Indians came off in great numbers, bringing fruit, poultry, and eggs, which they sold so reasonably, that even the common seamen could possess themselves of those refreshments, in very great abundance, so that both the ships had the appearance of large poulterers shops, and capital fruiterers warehouses on a market day.

This morning five of the _Orencaies_, or Chiefs of Button, came off in a boat of the European form, with Dutch colours hoisted at its poop. These people were dressed in jackets and long breeches, with turbans, and each of them had a silver-headed cane, with the Company’s marks on it. They gave Mons. Bougainville a Roe-buck, and received in return, each a quantity of silk stuffs. They paid many compliments to the French nation, freely drinking the health of his most Christian Majesty, and the king of Button, so freely, indeed, that they were, at length, obliged to be helped down the ship’s side into their boats.

The Commodore enquired of the Orencaies, whether any spices grew on the island of Button; to which they replied in the negative, and were easily credited, on account of the weakness of the Dutch settlement, which is nothing more than a few huts, built of the Bamboo cane, and enclosed with pallisadoes. The whole guard, on the part of the company, consists only of a Serjeant and three men. The coast opposite Button is enclosed, cultivated, and well-peopled; nor is the island itself less populous, or less fruitful.

In the morning the Indian pilot visited the Commodore, and informed him, that the south-east wind would blow freshest exactly at noon. This proved to be strictly true, and was a circumstance so well known to the natives, that all the boats which had surrounded the ship retired before the sun had gained his meridian altitude.

Mons. Bougainville, taking advantage of the pilot’s advice, got out to sea with a fair wind, steering for the island of Saleyor, which he discovered on the 18th.--On this island the Dutch have a small settlement, the principal Resident at which is the book-keeper. This day at noon three islands were discovered, which were called _North Island_, _South Island_, and _Isle of Passage_; which last was so denominated from the ships passing near it, for the advantage of a safe navigation.

By day-light on the 19th they were within about a league of the coast of Celebes, which, in this part is described as one of the finest countries in the world. Immense herds of cattle graze on the plains, which are adorned with groves, while the coast is one continued plantation of the cocoa-nut tree. The plains are in most places cultivated and covered with houses, while the mountains behind them add dignity and ornament to the whole picture.

On this day Mons. Bougainville chased a Malayan boat, in the hope of obtaining a pilot acquainted with the coast; but she fled at his approach, nor even brought to, after he had fired several guns at her. He conjectures, that the Boudeuse was mistaken for a Dutch ship, and observes, that the generality of people on this coast are pirates, who are always made slaves of when they are taken by the Dutch.

The ships having, during the evening, steered between an island named Tanakeka, and three smaller isles, orders were given at midnight to carry all the sail possible, in order to come within sight of the isles of Alambai.

At midnight, between the 21st and 22d, a boat was observed advancing towards the ships; but, though guns were repeatedly fired she bore off, in the apprehension, as conjectured, that they were Dutch vessels.--Mons. Bougainville’s observation is, that “these people are more afraid of the Dutch, than of the firing of guns.”--And, indeed, this observation seems to be verified by another boat being equally studious to avoid them, a few hours afterwards.

In the afternoon of the 22d the north coast of Madura was seen from the mast-head, and a number of fishing boats were observed, some at anchor, and some employed in their business.--On the following morning four ships were seen, two of which hoisted Dutch colours, and one of them was spoke with by the Boudeuse, which proved to be a snow from Malacca, bound for Japara.

Mons. Bougainville now coasted the land of Java, the shore of which is level, but the interior country abounds in lofty mountains.

On the morning of the 26th the coast of Java appeared with the rising sun. In the afternoon the Commodore spoke with a Dutchman, who commanded a boat bound for the isles of Amboina and Ternate, who said that, according to his reckoning, he was then twenty-six leagues from Batavia.

Having come to an anchor for the night, the ships sailed early in the morning of the 27th, and, on the following night, came to an anchor, in the fear of having even past the port of Batavia; but having sight of the church of that town in the morning, they sailed into, and soon anchored in the road, happy to have, after so many toils, difficulties and dangers, reached a spot which they conceived would soon put a period to all their misfortunes, by ensuring them a safe arrival in Europe.

Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to recite such incidents as happened during the time he was at Batavia, and gives some particulars respecting the Molucca islands.

We scarce know how to treat this subject with the delicacy with which it ought to be touched, as the readers of these volumes are already apprized of almost every interesting particular respecting Batavia; but we shall, with the utmost diligence, select such circumstances as our French historian has recorded, which have been either unknown to, or not treated of by the English navigators.

Mons. Bougainville, for reasons which would operate on every prudent Commander, resolved to make his stay at Batavia as short as possible; but the want of biscuit, a sufficient quantity of which was not baked, compelled him to stay longer than he had intended.

A Dutch officer came on board with a written paper, of which our Frenchman understood not a word: but the Cockswain having enquired who their visitants were, demanded a certificate, written and signed by the commanding officer. Mons. Bougainville, who had sent an officer on shore to wait on the Governor, declined to give any answer till his return. This Officer came back late in the evening with an account, that his Excellency was at his country-house, but that he had been with the _Shebander_, who promised to introduce the Commodore to the Dutch General, on the following day.

The heat of this climate requires, that visits should be made early in the morning: Mons. Bougainville therefore set out soon after day-break, and, after waiting on the Shebander, was by him conducted to the Governor General, who was then at one of his country residences about nine miles from the town.

The behaviour of this Chief of an important district was equally sincere and obliging: he approved of the conduct of the Resident at Boero, in his treatment of the French during the hour of their distress. He gave permission for the sick to be lodged in the hospital, and issued the proper orders for their being received. The furnishing of the necessary supplies was left to the Shebander, and when all matters of business were ended, the Governor asked the Commodore if he would salute the citadel. To this it was answered in the affirmative, on the condition that the salute should be properly returned. These preliminaries being adjusted, Mons. Bougainville went on board his ship, saluted with fifteen guns, and was complimented with the same number.

Considering the matter seriously, is not all this most egregious nonsense?--A Frenchman agrees to waste a certain quantity of his Master’s powder, provided a Dutchman will blow into the air, an equal quantity of the powder of their High Mightinesses, the States General!

The sick people were now sent to the hospital, twenty-eight in number, most of whom were troubled with the bloody flux, and the rest with the scurvy.

The officers having taken lodgings in the town, fixed a day for paying a visit of ceremony to the Governor, at his country-seat, called Jacatra; after which they visited, in form, an officer called _Schout-by-Nacht_, or _Rear Admiral_, who is a member of the Regency, and has a vote in every matter respecting maritime affairs. This gentleman lives with a degree of splendor that would not disgrace a Prince.

Mons. Bougainville mentions the theatre of Batavia, as an elegant building; but of the performances he was not qualified to judge, from a total ignorance of the language. His curiosity impelled him to take a view of the Chinese comedies, but of these, also, he could form no judgment but from sight. Exclusive of the exhibitions on the regular theatres, he says, that a kind of pantomine is daily performed, on scaffolds erected in the Chinese quarter of the city. It is a singularity of the Chinese comedy, that the characters of men are represented by women; nor is it unfrequent to see the actors entertain the spectators with a boxing-match.

Our ingenious voyager represents the neighbourhood of Batavia as elegant beyond description.--The neatness is all Dutch; the magnificence truly Parisian.--A clergyman of Batavia, Mr. Mohr, distinguished for his immense riches, and his extensive knowledge, has erected, in the garden of one of his country-houses, one of the most superb observatories in the world, and has furnished it with great variety of instruments of the construction of European artists. Our author observes, that he “is doubtless the richest of all the children of Urania.”

The water of Batavia is of so bad a quality, that the people of fortune import Seltzer water from Holland, for their common drinking, at a most enormous expence. The houses of this city are built only one story high, on account of the frequent earthquakes, which would be of pernicious consequence to buildings of a lofty construction.

The riches of the Batavians are marked by the magnificent taste in which their houses are furnished; yet is the city said to be much inferior to what it was some years ago; and it is certain, that the rent of houses is not half as much as it was: yet will this place always be rich, through the refined policy of the Dutch, which makes it difficult for any man, after he has amassed a fortune, to transmit it to Europe: for any money intended to be sent to Holland, must pass through the hands of the Company, who charge eight per cent. for the care of sending it to Europe; exclusive of which, the current-money of Batavia would sustain a loss of no less than twenty-eight per cent. even if it could be smuggled out of the country.

The distinction of rank is observed in the strictest degree at Batavia. What the French call the _Etiquette_ is never dispensed with. The gradation of rank is as follows, viz. the high Regency, the Court of Justice, the Ecclesiastics, the Company’s servants, the sea officers, and those of the military.

There is no appeal from the decisions of the Court of Justice. This court, about twenty years since, sentenced to death the Governor of Ceylon, who had been convicted of most infamous oppressions in his government; and he was executed opposite the citadel at Batavia.

If any of the respective sovereigns of the island of Java offend against the established Dutch policy, they are put to death in the most inhuman manner. On these melancholy occasions, the unhappy sufferers are dressed in white drawers, and are never beheaded, from a conviction prevalent among them, that appearing in any other dress, or visiting the other world without their heads, would be productive of the most fatal consequences: nor do the Dutch dare to controvert these opinions, as the immediate consequence of such a procedure on their part would be a revolt of that of the Javanese.

The Dutch Company have an exclusive right to a large part of the island of Java.--The island of Madura did formerly belong to them, but the Chief of it revolted from their authority, and the son of this revolting king is at present the Governor of that very island, of which his father had been the Sovereign.

The Dutch, equally deep in every stroke of their politics, have seized the province of Balimburan, in consequence of the Sovereign of that district having revolted from their authority. It is asserted, that the English erected him a fort, and supplied him with arms and ammunition to combat that slavery, which he thought the more an indignity, because it was impelled by the mercantile world. After a war of two years, and after repeated battles, in the last of which the Javanese Prince and his family were made prisoners, the Dutch became final conquerors, and the routed Sovereign being lodged in the citadel of Batavia, soon fell a sacrifice to the grief that preyed on his mind. When Mons. Bougainville arrived at Batavia, it was in agitation to send the son and the other branches of this unhappy family to the Cape of Good Hope, in order that they might spend the remains of a wretched existence on the island of Roben. The several Chiefs of the different districts of the island of Java are surrounded with Dutch guards, so that they are Kings only in name. From these, however, the Dutch receive arrac, rice, sugar, coffee and tin; in return for which they supply opium, the sale of which is very profitable, from the great quantities consumed by the Javanese.

Our Commodore now proceeds to a description of the commerce of Batavia, and a recital of many particulars respecting the Molucca islands; but these particulars, or others so exceedingly resembling them, being recorded in many volumes of voyages, we shall pass them over in search of something really new, and respecting which our author appears to have been well informed.

Before the crews of the Boudeuse and Etoile had been ten days at Batavia, the diseases common to that climate began to attack them with all their fury. From a vigorous state of health the people were, in a few days, reduced to the brink of the grave; nor could the Commodore’s utmost diligence enable him to transact his affairs with a proper degree of dispatch, as the illness of the Shebander himself prevented the acceleration of his business.

Every officer on board the Boudeuse began to feel the fatal effects of the climate; and, at length, Aotourou felt the direful influence of this pestiferous clime; and it is supposed, that nothing but the readiness with which he took the prescriptions offered him, could have saved him from the most fatal consequences of the contagion. For a long time after he left Batavia, he distinguished it by the name of _Enoua Matè_, the land which kills.

Mons. Bougainville now proceeds to a description of his leaving Batavia, his touching at the isle of France, and his return to his native country, of which we shall have occasion to say but little, as the run from Batavia to Europe is universally well known, and has been previously described in the course of these volumes.

The ships sailed on the 16th of October, 1768, and cleared the streights of Sunda on the 19th in the afternoon. By this time the crew were all perfectly recovered of the scurvy, but a few of them remained ill of the bloody-flux. On the 20th the ships were in sight of the isle of France, and on the 8th of November, the Boudeuse anchored in the port of that island; the Etoile, which had been unavoidably left behind, anchoring in the same port on the following day.

At this place the ships were repaired, and the Commodore left behind him on the island several persons, who desired to add to the numbers already in that colony.

The Commodore expresses his happiness that he was enabled, after so tedious a voyage, to enrich this colony with inhabitants and necessaries; but he laments in the most pathetic terms the death of the Chevalier du Bouchage, an Ensign on board the King’s ship, whose abilities as an officer could be surpassed only by his virtues and accomplishments as a man.

Our author speaks, in the most lavish terms, of the forges for making iron, which are established on this island, and he even prefers them to those of Europe; how far he is justified in this preference, must be left to future navigators, or future artificers to determine.

Mons. Bougainville sailed from this place the 12th of December, 1768, leaving the Etoile behind him, to undergo some necessary repairs; and this ship did not arrive in France till a month after the Boudeuse. Without encountering any singular accident, our adventurers had sight of the Cape of Good Hope on the 18th of January, and came to an anchor in Table Bay on the following morning.

Our author very judiciously omits a description of the Cape, which has been so often and so accurately described by our circumnavigators, and other voyagers: one circumstance, however, he fails not to mention, that they killed a quadrupede, named the _Giraffe_, which was seventeen feet in height, and that they took the young one alive, which measured seven feet. “None of these (says our author) had been seen after that which was brought to Rome in the time of Cæsar, and shewn there in the amphitheatre.”

Mons. Bougainville sailed from the Cape on the 17th, and came to an anchor off the island of St. Helena on the 4th of February, where he remained till the 6th, and then got under sail in pursuance of his voyage to France.

On the 25th of this month the Commodore joined the Swallow, commanded by Captain Carteret: what passed in consequence of this junction the readers of these volumes are already acquainted with.

Nothing material happened from this time till they had sight of the isle of Ushant, when a violent squall of wind had nearly blasted all the blooming hopes of so fine a voyage. On the 15th the Commodore bore away for St. Maloes, which he entered on the following day, after an absence of two years and four months from his native country; during all which time he had buried only seven of his crew, a circumstance that will be deemed truly astonishing, when we reflect on the variety of dangers they had encountered; the amazing changes of climate they had experienced; the _hair breadth_ perils they had escaped, and the estimated proportion of time that any man may be supposed to live, at any given age, when in full health, and breathing his native air. To what then shall we ascribe the unexampled success of Mons. Bougainville’s circumnavigation, but to the benevolent interposition of that _particular providence_, the existence of which hath been lately so boldly, and with such apparent weight of argument, denied.