Chapter XIV: Part II: Returning

“What an excellent remedy, or, at least, what a palliative, for the sufferings of the head and heart, is TRAVELLING. Alternate weariness and rest leave no room for any train of ideas, and every thing conspires to render us as happy as if our sufferings were ended.”

DUKE DE LA ROCHEFAUCALT LIANCOURT’S _Travels_.
Vol. I. p. 173.

JOURNAL

MARIETTA

I SOON found that the genial influences of a mild and salubrious climate, aided by habitual exercise, daily improved my bodily strength; while my mind, relieved of its cares, was constantly occupied and amused with the new and interesting scenery and the wonderful antiquities in this neighbourhood; and my spirits were soothed and cheered by the kind attentions of hospitality and friendship.

THUS led to indulge some encouraging prospects of restoration to health, my thoughts turned towards my distant home, which I had never expected to revisit. Taking an affectionate leave of my brother, who inclined to settle in the State of Ohio, and of my much esteemed friends at Marietta, accompanied by Mr. ADAMS, I set out homewards on Monday morning, June 6th.

{58} I QUITTED with regret a place where I had passed a few weeks so pleasantly. I shall ever retain a grateful sense of the hospitality with which I was received, and of the respect and attention with which I was honored by the inhabitants of MARIETTA and BELLE PRÉ.

AS we preferred traversing the woods to ascending the river in a boat, we returned to Wheeling on horseback.

THE industrious habits and neat improvements of the people on the west side of the river, are strikingly contrasted with those on the east. _Here_, in Ohio, they are intelligent, industrious, and thriving; _there_, on the back skirts of Virginia, ignorant, lazy, and poor. _Here_ the buildings are neat, though small, and furnished in many instances with brick chimnies and glass windows; _there_ the habitations are miserable cabins. _Here_ the grounds are laid out in a regular manner, and inclosed by strong posts and rails; _there_ the fields are surrounded by a rough zigzag log fence. _Here_ are thrifty young apple orchards; _there_ the only fruit that is raised is the peach, _from which a good brandy is distilled_!

{59} I HAD often heard a degrading character of the BACK SETTLERS; and had now an opportunity of seeing it exhibited. The abundance of wild game allures them to be huntsmen. They not only find sport in this pursuit, but supply of provisions, together with considerable profit from the peltry. They neglect, of course, the cultivation of the land. They acquire rough and savage manners. Sloth and independence are prominent traits in their character; to indulge the former is their principal enjoyment, and to protect the latter their chief ambition.

ANOTHER cause of the difference may be that, in the back counties of Virginia, every planter depends upon his NEGROES for the cultivation of his lands; but in the State of Ohio, _where slavery is not allowed_, every farmer tills his ground HIMSELF. To all this may be added, that most of the “Back-wood’s men,” as they are called, are emigrants from foreign countries, but the State of Ohio was settled by people from NEW-ENGLAND, THE REGION OF INDUSTRY, ECONOMY, AND STEADY HABITS.

{60} THE wilderness through which we rode often presented most delightful prospects, particularly as we approached the bank of the river, which opened and enlarged the view.

WE frequently remarked that the banks are higher at the margin, than at a little distance back. I account for it in this manner. Large trees, which are brought down the river by the inundations, are lodged upon the borders of the bank; but cannot be floated far upon the champaign, because obstructed by the growth of wood. Retaining their situation when the waters subside, they obstruct and detain the leaves and mud, which would else recoil into the stream, and thus, in process of time, form a bank higher than the interior flats.

TUESDAY, _June 7_

THERE is something which impresses the mind with awe in the shade and silence of these vast forests. In deep solitude, alone with nature, we converse with GOD.

OUR course through the woods was directed by marked trees. As yet there is no road cut.

THERE is but little underwood; but on the sides of the creeks, and near the river, {61} the papaw (_Annona glabra_,) the spice bush, or wild pimento (_Laurus benzoin_,) and the dogberry (_cornus Florida_,) grow in the greatest abundance.

WE often stopped to admire the grapevines in these forests, which twine among and spread a canopy over the summits of the highest trees. Some are nine inches in diameter. They stretch from the root, which is often thirty and forty feet from the trunk of the tree, and ascend in a straight line to the first high limb, thirty and even sixty feet from the ground. How they have reached such an height, without the help of intermediate branches, is unaccountable.

ON the upper beach of one of the islands we saw a large flock of Turkey Buzzards, attracted there by a dead carcass that had floated down the river, and lodged upon the bar. These birds did not fly upon our approach.

WE reached TOMLINSON, a small settlement near Grave Creek, to lodge.[40] We propose spending tomorrow here in viewing the surprizing forts and the “Big Mound,” in this vicinity.

{62} WEDNESDAY, _June 8_

“Behind me rises huge a reverend pile
Sole on this desert heath, a place of tombs,
Waste, desolate; where Ruin dreary dwells,
Brooding o’er sightless skulls and crumbling bones.”

WE went out this morning to examine the antient monuments about Grave Creek. The town of Tomlinson is partly built upon one of the square forts. Several mounds are to be seen. I think there are nine within a mile. Three of them, which stand adjoining each other, are of superior height and magnitude to those which are most commonly to be met with. In digging away the side of one of these, in order to build a stable, many curious stone implements were found; one resembled a syringe; there were, also, a pestle, some copper beads of an oval shape, and several other articles. One of the mounds in Col. Bygg’s garden was excavated in order to make an ice-house.[41] It contained a vast number of human bones, a variety of stone tools, and a kind of stone signet of an oval shape, two inches in length, with a figure in relievo resembling a note of admiration, surrounded by two raised rims. Capt. Wilson, who presented the stone to my companion Mr. Adams, observed that it was exactly the figure of {63} the brand with which the Mexican horses were marked.[42] One of the mounds was surrounded by a regular ditch and parapet, with only one entrance. The tumulus was about twelve feet high, and the parapet five.

THE “_Big grave_,” as it is called, is a most astonishing mound. We measured the perpendicular height, and it was sixty-seven feet and a half. By the measurement of George Millar, Esq.[43] of Wheeling, it is sixty-eight feet. Its sides are quite steep. The diameter of the top is fifty-five feet: but the apex seems to have caved in; for the present summit forms a bason, three or four feet in depth. Not having a surveyor’s chain, we could not take the circumference, but judged that its base covered more than half an acre. It is overgrown with large trees on all sides. Near the top is a white oak of three feet diameter; one still larger grows on the eastern side about half way down. The mound sounds hollow. Undoubtedly its contents will be numerous, curious, and calculated to develop in a farther degree the history of the antiquities which abound in this part of our country.

{64} AS there are no excavations near the mound, and no hills or banks of earth, we infer that it must have been principally formed of sods skimmed from the surface, or of earth brought from a great distance. The labour of collecting such a prodigious quantity must have been inconceivably great. And when we consider the multitude of workmen, the length of time, and the expense, requisite to form such a stupendous mound; when we reflect upon the spirit of ambition which suggested the idea of this monument, of great but simple magnificence, to the memory of some renowned prince or warrior, we cannot but regret that the name and the glory it was designed to perpetuate are gone--LOST IN THE DARKNESS OF THE GRAVE![44]

THURSDAY, _June 9_

THE route from Tomlinson to Wheeling was very romantic. Sometimes we passed through shaded vales of towering trees, and sometimes on a winding road along the steep sides of a precipice, at the bottom of which flowed the beautiful Ohio. The passage is circuitous and narrow, and guarded from the steep descent to the river by a slight parapet of logs or stones. If {65} you look below, you fear that the stumbling horse will precipitate you among crags and trees to the river’s edge; while from above, loosened rocks seem to threaten to crush you by a fall.

ON these declivities grow the mountain raspberry (_Rubus montanus floridus_,) in great plenty. It is a handsome bush; and the flower, which is of a pale pink colour, and of the size and appearance of that of the sweet-briar, or hedge rose, gives it a very ornamental appearance. We were told that the fruit is large, and exceedingly delicious.

FRIDAY, _June 10_

LEAVE Wheeling, and proceed homewards in our carriage. Lodge at DONEGALA, in Washington County, Pennsylvania.[45]

SATURDAY, _June 11_

PASS through Washington and arrived at BROWNSVILLE to spend the Sabbath. The remarks I made upon the situation of this place have been transferred to the preceding account of the settlements on the Monongahela river.

{66} MONDAY, _June 13_

DINED, and spent the afternoon at UNIONTOWN, in company with the worthy Judge ADDISON, Judge ROBERTS, and the Judges, lawyers, and gentlemen of the circuit Court of Fayette County.[46]

UNIONTOWN is the shire town of the County. It is a very pleasant and thriving place, situated near Redstone Creek, and principally built upon one straight street, the side walks of which are neatly paved with large flat stones. It contains about one hundred and twenty houses, many of them well built, and some quite handsome. The public buildings are a meeting-house, and a stone Gaol. There is a printing-office in the town which issues a weekly newspaper. Several manufactures are carried on in the place, and much business done in the mercantile line to very great advantage. Though the town has been settled but fifteen years, it is, next to Pittsburg and Wheeling, the most flourishing town through which we passed on the western side of the mountains. Near it are some valuable merchant-mills; and in the county are eighteen furnaces and iron works, and several distilleries.[47]

{67} TOWARDS evening we pursued our journey as far as CONNELSVILLE, where we slept. This town has been settled eight years. It is pleasantly situated on the Yohiogany; and contains about eighty houses, and four hundred inhabitants.[48]

TUESDAY, _June 14_

THROUGH woody and rugged ways we passed the CHESNUT RIDGE, and LAUREL HILL, and reached SOMERSET to lodge: a distance of thirty-three miles. This is a pretty place, the shire town of the County of the same name. It has been settled eight years; contains about fifty houses, several of them well built; some merchants’ stores, shops of artists, a meeting-house, and a handsome Court-house and Gaol built with stone.

FINDING the afternoon too far spent to admit of another stage, we concluded to pass the night here. After a repast at the inn, we walked out to view the place, and inhale the cool breezes of declining day. The sun was just sinking below the western mountains, and fringed their tops with a rich variety of fiery hues, which died away into the most delicate tints of purple. We stood contemplating this scene of admirable {68} beauty, till the grey shades of evening shut it out from the view.

WEDNESDAY, _June 15_

BEGINNING now to ascend the steep sides of the ALLEGHANY, the road is rough and tiresome, and the prospect assumes a wilder and more romantic appearance at every step we advance.

WE crossed a considerable stream which dashes over the rocks from the declivity of the mountain, and makes the fourth fork of _Buffalo-lick Creek_; one of the principal branches of the Yohiogany river. It issues from a spring near the top of the mountain. The indistinct echoes of the distant waterfall, and the plaintive murmurs of the breeze breaking in upon the stillness of the desert region, constitute an accompaniment corresponding with the solemnity and grandeur of the whole scene.

WE dined at Seybour’s on the top of the mountain. We then visited the beautiful spring, near the house, on the easterly brow of the mountain, which is the source of _Caicutuck_, or _Will’s Creek_, whose waters enter the Potomack at Fort Cumberland, an outer post built by General Braddock in 1755.[49]

{69} NEXT we walked up to the higher ground, to enjoy the prospect afforded by this stupendous elevation.

FROM this summit a sweep of hundreds of miles is visible, except where remote intervening mountains break the line of the horizon, which in other parts is lost in the interminable azure wherewith the heaven and the earth are blended. Ideas of immensity swelled and exalted our minds as we contemplated a prospect partaking so much of infinitude; and we felt some wonderful relations to an universe without boundary or end.

DESCENDING the mountain, we reached Metzker’s, an obscure inn, to lodge.

THURSDAY, _June 16_

WE rose early in the morning and pursued our journey. For several miles we had an excellent road on the top of DRY RIDGE. The sky was clear. The stars shone brightly. All was solemn and still, as if “nature felt a pause.” For some time we but dimly discerned our way; but, as the twilight became brighter, the prospect opened before us. The increasing light of dawning day extended the stretch of picturesque scenery. The horizon assumed a {70} hue of tawny red, which gradually heightened into ruddy tints, and formed a glowing tiara to encircle the splendors of the rising sun. The orb of day rose with uncommon grandeur among clouds of purple, red, and gold, which mingling with the serene azure of the upper sky, composed a richness and harmony of colouring which we never saw surpassed. The vapours of the night rested in the vallies below, and seemed to the view one vast ocean, through which the projecting peaks and summits of mountains looked like clusters of islands. The whole scene was novel and interesting in the highest degree. But we soon had to descend, and were immersed in fog and vapour, and shut out from the pleasant light of the sun for nearly half the day. The next mountain, however, raised us above these low clouds, and presented us with a view of the clear and unveiled sky.

MAKING a journey of twenty-eight miles this day, we arrived at Martin’s, by the crossings of the Juniata, and put up for the night.

FRIDAY, _June 17_

PASSING the SIDELING HILLS, we reach MCCONNEL’S TOWN, a delightful, {71} well-watered village in Bedford County, Pennsylvania, to dine. It is situated in the valley, or, as it is called “the Cove,” between SIDELING and NORTH MOUNTAIN. It has been built eight years; contains about eighty houses, several of them handsomely built with brick or stone, a number of stores and shops, and a small Dutch meeting-house.

QUITTING this sequestered place, we ascended the NORTH MOUNTAIN, and enjoyed from its top a variegated and magnificent prospect. Deep below we saw the town and beautiful vale we had passed, with the meandering stream which runs through it. Scattered houses, and rich cultivated farms, formed an interesting contrast with the rugged mountains with which they were environed. On the north and west the prospect is circumscribed by ranges of mountains; but on the east and south a prodigious expanse of country is laid open to the eye, and the senses are almost bewildered in contemplating the vastness of the scene.

TO wander through the shady grove, to contemplate the verdant pasture and the field of ripening grain, or to admire the {72} flowery beauties of the garden, may afford a pleasant recreation; but the majestic features of the uncultivated wilderness, and the extensive views of nature gained from the brows of a lofty mountain, produce an expansion of fancy and an elevation of thought more dignified and noble. When these great scenes of creation open upon the view, they rouse an admiration exalting as it is delightful: and while the eye surveys at a glance the immensity of heaven and earth, the mind is rendered conscious of its innate dignity, and recognises those great and comprehensive powers with which it is endowed. THE SUBLIME IN NATURE, which, in its effect is equally solemn and pleasing, captivates while it awes, and charms while it elevates and expands the soul.

SATURDAY, _June 18_

WE tarried last night at Campbell’s at the _Cold Springs_, where we met with the most excellent accommodations, and lodging peculiarly refreshing to weary wayworn travellers; and rose this morning with renovated strength and spirits to resume our journey.

{73} WE stopped at CHAMBERSBURG to breakfast. This is a fine town, situated on Conogocheague Creek, through which might be opened an easy communication with the Potomack. It is a post-town, and the capital of Franklin County, in Pennsylvania; and is principally built on two large streets which intersect each other at right angles, leaving a public square in the centre. It contains about two hundred and fifty houses, handsomely built of brick or stone; two Presbyterian churches; a Court-house of brick, and a stone Gaol. There is a printing-office in the place, and a paper-mill in the vicinity. It is a situation favourable to trade and manufactures, and every thing looks lively and thriving. The land in the neighbourhood appears rich and fertile, and is highly cultivated.[50]

WE dined at Horne’s on the top of the SOUTH MOUNTAIN, and slept at OXFORD, a small town which has been built nine years, but does not appear to much advantage.[51]

LORD’S DAY, _June 19_

WISHING to attend public worship at Yorktown, we rose early this morning and arrived there by nine o’clock; having passed {74} through ABBOT’S TOWN, a pretty flourishing village, the chief town of Adams County.[52]

MONDAY, _June 20_

YORKTOWN is a fine place, in pleasantness vying with Lancaster, in neatness exceeding it. It is a post-town, and capital of the county of York. It is situated on the east side of Codorus Creek, which empties into the Susquehannah. It is regularly laid out, principally on two main streets which cross each other at right angles. It contains more than five hundred houses, several of which are handsomely built of brick, and some of stone. The public buildings are a German Lutheran, a German Calvinist, a Presbyterian, a Roman Catholic, and a Moravian Church; a Quaker meeting-house; a Court house; a stone Gaol; a Record office, and an Academy.

HENCE our journey was through _Lancaster_, _Reading_, and _Bethlehem_, in Pennsylvania; _Warwick_ and _Fishkill_, in New York; and _Farmington_ and _Hartford_ in Connecticut.

We reached home the beginning of July.

--“O quid solutis est beatius curis,
Cum mens onus reponit, ac peregrino
Labore fessi, venimus Larem ad nostrum!”

{75} ITINERARY

THE following directory of the Roads and Distances over the mountains, from Lancaster in Pennsylvania, may be of use to explain some particulars in the preceding Journal, and prove of service to those who may have occasion to make the same tour.[53]

Towns Inns Distances in miles

From LANCASTER
to Big Chickey’s Cockran’s 9
Elizabeth town _Black horse_ 9
Middletown 9
_Chambers’ ferry_ over the Susquehannah 6
¶ _Silver springs_[54] 8
Carlisle 10
Mount rock _Grand Turk_ 10
Shippensburg 11
Strasburg 11
_Over_ TWO MOUNTAINS _to_ Fannetsburg 7
_Over the_ THIRD MOUNTAIN _to_ Burnt Cabins 4
_Over_ SIDELING HILLS to Wilds 13
_Crossings of the_ Juniata ¶ Martin’s 9
¶ Graham’s 8
{76} Bedford[55] 6
_Forks of the road_[56] ¶ Smith’s 4
_Glade road_ Metzker’s 10
_Top of the_ ALLEGHANY _White horse_ 11
Somerset ¶ Webster’s 13
LAUREL HILL 8
Behmer’s 3
_Jones’s Mill_ 6
Mount Pleasant 11
Westmoreland ¶ McKean’s 5
_Budd’s ferry over the_ Yohiogany 8
Pittsburg ¶ _Pure fountain_ 28
Cannonsburg _Black horse_ 18
Washington _Indian Queen_ 9
Alexandria 16
_Shepherd’s Mills_ 9
Wheeling[57] ¶ Goodwin’s 7
Down the river to MARIETTA 95

{77} RETURNING
From Marietta to
Newport ¶ Dana’s 6
Williamson’s 14
¶ McBride’s 12
_Hurd’s ferry across the_ Ohio Hurd’s 12
_Fish Creek_ 8
Grave Creek ¶ Bigg’s 12
Wheeling ¶ Goodwin’s 12
Donegala 23
Washington _Indian Queen_ 9
¶ Hawkin’s 13
Brownsville or Redstone ¶ Jenkinson’s 12
Union-town ¶ Collins’s 12
Connelsville ¶ Welles’ 11
CHESNUT RIDGE ¶Woodruff 9
Bachelor’s 5
_Top of_ LAUREL HILL Slaucher’s 4
Somerset Webster’s 14
McDommet’s 8
_Top of_ ALLEGHANY 6
Strotler’s 7
Metzker’s 4
_Forks of the road_ Bonnet’s 9
¶ Smith’s 1

End of the Glade road.
{78} Bedford 4
¶ Graham’s[58] 6
_Crossings of the_ Juniata ¶ Martin’s[59] 8
[_Then_, _to go by_ Chambersburg,
_take the road on the
S. E. side of_ SIDELING HILLS] Beckwith’s 8
McConnelstown ¶ Davis’s 9
Campbell’s 5
Chambersburg 9
McKean’s 4
Brigham’s 4
Horne’s 5
_Cross Keys_ 7
_Lion_ 3
Murphy’s 8
Oxford 2
Abbot’s town 4
¶ King’s 4
Wolfe’s 6
Yorktown ¶ Upp’s 5
_Wright’s ferry_ 12
Lancaster Swan’s 10

{79} THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS

_From, April 6 to June 13, 1803_

------+--------------+--------------------+-----------+--------------
Days | Times of | | |
of the| observation | Place | Wind | Weather
month| | | |
------+--------------+--------------------+-----------+--------------
APRIL |_Fahrenh._ deg.| | |
6 |VI. A.M. 34 |Carlisle in | N.W. |
| | Pennsylvania. | |
|II. P.M. 64 |127 miles from | S.W. | Fair all day.
| | Philad. | |
| | | |
7 |X. A.M. 52 |Strasburg, at | N. |
| | the foot of the | |
| | mountain. | |
|XI. A.M. 58 |Top of the | W.N.W. |
| | mountain. | |
|XII. M. 67 |Valley below. | |
|I-½. P.M. 57 |Top of the | |
| | second ridge. | |
|III. P.M. 69 |Fannetsburg; | W. |
| | 2d valley. | |
|V. P.M. 72 |Top of third | |
| | mountain. | |
|VII. P.M. 60 |Burnt Cabins; | S.W. | Fair all day.
| | 3d valley. | |
| | | |
8 |VI. A.M. 48 |Same place. | W.S.W. | Hazy.
|X. A.M. 62 |Foot of Sideling | | Fair, except
| | mountain. | | while enveloped
| | | | with clouds on
| | | | the side of the
| | | | mountain.
| | | |
9 |XII. M. 56 |}Borders of the }| N.W. | Fair.
|II. P.M. 65 |} Juniata. }| |
|V. P.M. 58 |} | |
| | | |
10 |VIII. A.M 39 |} same place | | Fair.
|I. A.M. 62 |} | |
|II. P.M. 68 |} | |
| | | |
11 |VII. A.M. 54 |Bedford | |}
|II. P.M. 78 |Foot of the | |} Fair.
| | Alleghany | |}
|VII. P.M. 52 |Top of the | |
| | mountain. | |
12 |I. A.M. 55 |Top of the | |
| | mountain | E. | Smoky.
|XII. M. 74 |Somerset | W. |
|V. P.M. 77 |Foot of Laurel | W. |
| | mountain. | |
|VII. P.M. 60 |Top of the mountain.| W. |Smoky all day.
13 |VI. A.M. 57 | same place | |
|X. A.M. 63 |Bottom of Laurel | | Hazy.
| | Hill | |
|XII. M. 84 |265 miles from | S.W. | Fair.
| | Philad. | |
|VII. P.M. 79 |280 same place. | | Smoky.
14 |VI. A.M. 70 |285 same place | | Shower.
| | (Westmoreland | |
| | County.) | |
|II. P.M. 65 Banks of | |
| | Monongahela. | |
|VII. P.M. 68 |Mifflin (Alleghany | |
| | Co.) 312 miles | |
| | from Philad. | |
15 |VI. A.M. 58 |Valley of | N.W. |}
| | Monongahela. | |}
| | | |} Rain.
|X. A.M. 64 |Pittsburg | W. |}
|VII. P.M. 55 |same place. | | Cloudy. Snow
|IX. P.M. 49 |same place. | | in the night.
16 |VII. A.M. 35 |} | | Clear.
|XII. M. 48 |} same place. | |Flurry of snow.
{80} |VI. P.M. 46 |} | | Cloudy.
| | | |
17 |VII. A.M. 44 |} | |
|XII. M. 46 |} Pittsburg. | S.E. | Fair[60]
|VI. P.M. 45 |} | |
| | | |
18 |VII. A.M. 43 |} | |
|XII. M. 63 |} same place. | S.E. by E.|Fair &
|VII. P.M. 60 |} | | pleasant.
19 |VII. A.M. 45 |Pittsburg. |} |
|II. P.M. 72 |Cannonsburg. |} S.S.W. | Fair.
|VII. P.M. 62 |Washington. |} |
20 |X. A.M. 62 |10 miles beyond | |
| | Wash. | |
|III. P.M. 78 |Shepherd’s mills | |}
| | on Wheeling | |} Fair.
| | Creek. | |}
|VI. P.M. 68 |Wheeling. | |}
21 |VII. A.M. 62 |Wheeling. | | Shower early
| | | | in morn.
|II. P.M. 75 |Captinat Island on | |}
| | the Ohio, 101 | |}
| | miles below | |}
| | Pittsburg. | |} Fair.
|VII. P.M. 72 |Fish Creek, 110 | |}
| | miles below | |}
| | Pittsburg. | |}
| | | |
22 |VII. A.M. 64 |Long reach on the | |}
| | Ohio 127 miles | |}
| | below Pittsburg. | |} Fair.
|II. P.M. 73 |Long reach. | |}
|VII. P.M. 65 |Head of Muskingum | |}
| | Isl. | |}
23 |VII. A.M. 58 |} | S.E. and |
|II. P.M. 65 |} Marietta. | by S. | Rainy.
|V. P.M. 63 |} | |
| | | |
24 |VII. A.M. 66 |} | |
|II. P.M. 68 |} same place. | S.S.W. | Rainy.
|V. P.M. 65 |} | |
| | | |
25 |VII. A.M. 55 |} | |
|II. P.M. 66 |} same place. | S.W.&W. | Rainy.
|V. P.M. 64 |} | |
| | | |
26 |VII. A.M. 46 |} | | Cloudy.
|II. P.M. 60 |} same place. | E.N.E. |}
|V. P.M. 58 |} | |} Fair.
| | | |
27 |VII. A.M. 48 |} | |
|XII. M. 61 |} same place. |E.and by S.| Fair.
|V. P.M. 57 |} | |
| | | |
28 |VII. A.M. 55 |} | |
|XII. M. 75 |} same place. | W.S.W. | Fair.
|V. P.M. 64 |} | |
| | | |
29 |VII. A.M. 59 |} | |
|XII. M. 70 |} same place. | S.W. | Fair.
|V. P.M. 68 |} | |
| | | |
30 |VII. A.M. 61 |} | |
|XII. M. 76 |} same place. | S.W. and | Fair.
|V. P.M. 75 |} | by W. | Hazy.
MAY | | | |
1 |VII. A.M. 72 |} | |}
|XII. M. 79 |} same place. }|Fresh wind |} Fair.
{81} |V. P.M. 68 |} }| W.N.W. |}
| | | |
2 |VII. A.M. 63 |} same place. | | Fair. Slight
|XII. M. 61 |} | N.W. | frost in the
|V. P.M. 50 | Marietta. | | night.
| | | |
3 |VII. A.M. 55 |} | |
|XII. M. 58 |} same place. | N.W. | Fair.
|V. P.M. 55 |} | |
| | | |
4 |VII. A.M. 54 |} | |
|XII. M. 62 |} same place. | S.S.W. | Fair.
|V. P.M. 58 |} | |
| | | |
5 |VII. A.M. 56 |} | |
|XII. M. 62 |} same place. | W.N.W. | Fair.
|V. P.M. 59 |} | |
| | | |
6 |VII. A.M. 54 |} | | Remarkably
|XII. M. 58 |} Bellepré. | N. | cold for
|V. P.M. 52 |} | | this region.
| | | | Fall of snow:
7 |VII. A.M. 44 |} | | very unusual
|XII. M. 52 |} same place. | N.N.W. | here, and more
|V. P.M. 39 |} | | than fell at
| | | | any one time
| | | | in the winter.
| | | |
8 |VII. A.M. 38 |} | |
|XII. M. 56 |} same place. | N.N.W. | Fair.
|V. P.M. 55 |} | |
| | | |
9 |VII. A.M. 53 |} | |
|XII. M. 58 |} same place. | | Fair.
|V. P.M. 56 |} | |
| | | |
10 |VII. A.M. 55 |} | |
|XII. M. 69 |} same place. | N.W. | Fair.
|V. P.M 58 |} | |
| | | |
11 |VII. A.M. 55 |} | |
|XII. M. 70 |} Marietta. | W.S.W. | Fair.
|V. P.M. 71 |} | |
| | | |
12 |VII. A.M. 65 |} | |
|XII. M. 80 |} same place. | W. and |
|V. P.M. 77 |} | by N. | Fair.
| | | |
13 |VII. A.M. 68 |} | |
|XII. M. 82 |} same place. | | Fair.
|V. P.M. 79 |} | |
| | | |
14 |VII. A.M. 72 |} Marietta. | |} Fair.
|XII. M. 80 |} | |}
|V. P.M. 79 | 8 miles up the | | Thundershower.
| | Muskingum. | |
| | | |
15 |VII. A.M. 71 |} At Rainbow, a | | Hazy.
|XII. M. 78 |} little village | |
|V. P.M. 75 |} 12 miles up | | Fair.
| |} the Muskingum. | |
| | | |
16 |VII. A.M. 78 |} Up the Muskingum. | | Broken clouds.
|XII. M. 83 |} | |
|V. P.M. 77 | 18 miles from | | Thun. showers.
| | Marietta. | |
| | | |
17 |VII. A.M. 62 |} Waterford, 25 | |
|XII. M. 85 |} miles from | | Fair.
{82} |V. P.M. 80 |} Marietta. | |
| | | |
18 |VII. A.M. 63 |} | |
|XII. M. 80 |} Waterford. | | Fair.
|V. P.M. 77 |} | |
| | | |
19 |VII. AM. 82 |} Returning from | | Showery.
|XII. M. 84 |} Waterford. | | Clouds united
|V. P.M. 86 |} | | from the N.E.
| | | | and S.W. with
| | | | a heavy thunder
| | | | shower.
20 |VII. A.M. 71 |} | |
|XII. M. 76 |} Marietta. | W.N.W. | Cloudy.
|V. P.M. 73 |} | | Fair.
| | | |
21 |VII. A.M. 63 |} | |
|XII. M. 69 |} same place. | W.N.W. | Cloudy.
|V. P.M. 65 |} | |
| | | |
22 |VII. A.M. 64 |} | W.N.W. | Rainy.
|XII. M. 69 |} same place. }| N.N.E. |
|V. P.M. 68 |} | S.S.W. | Fair.
| | | |
23 |VII. A.M. 5 |} | | Cloudy.
|XII. M. 66 |} same place. | |
|V. P.M. 60 |} | S.W. | Rain.
| | | |
24 |VII. A.M. 70 |} | | Cloudy.
|XII. M. 71 |} same place. | | Fair.
|V. P.M. 68 |} | | Thun. showers.
| | | |
25 |VII. A.M. 64 |} | | Fair.
|XII. M. 68 |} same place. | | Cloudy.
|V. P.M. 66 |} | | Thun. shower.
| | | |
26 |VII. A.M. 65 |} | }| Fair.
|XII. M. 68 |} same place. | }|
|V. P.M. 65 |} | |Flying clouds,
| | | | & distant thun.
27 |VII. A.M. 64 |} | |
|XII. M. 75 |} same place. | E.N.E. | Fair.
|V. P.M. 63 |} | |
| | | |
28 |VII. A.M. 62 |} | |
|XII. M. 68 |} Bellepré. | | Fair.
|V. P.M. 64 |} | |
| | | |
29 |VII. A.M. 58 | same place. | | Fair.
|XII. M. 63 |} Bellepré. | | Fair.
|V. P.M. 56 |} | |
| | | |
30 |VII. A.M. 59 |} | |
|XII. M . 72 |} same place. | | Fair.
|V. P.M. 70 |} | |
| | | |
31 |VII. A.M. 58 |}Vienna, a little | |
|XII. M. 72 |} village on the | |
|V. P.M. 60 |} Ohio, in the | | Fair.
| |} State of | |
| |} Virginia. | |
| | | |
JUNE | | | |
1 |VII. A.M. 71 |} | | Fair.
|XII. M. 80 |} Marietta. | | Scattered
|V. P.M. 76 |} | | clouds.
| | | |
2 |VII. A.M. 72 |} | |
|XII. M. 85 |} same place. | | Fair.
{83} |V. P.M. 81 |} | |
| | | |
3 |VII. A.M. 72 |} | |}
|XII. M. 79 |} same place. | S.S.W. |} Rainy.
|V. P.M. 74 |} | | Thunder.
| | | |
4 |VII. A.M. 71 |} | S.W. and |
|XII. M. 74 |} same place. | by W. | Rainy.
|V. P.M. 72 |} | |
| | | |
5 |VII. A.M. 69 |} | |Scatt. clouds.
|XII. M. 77 |} same place. | |} Fair.
|V. P.M. 62 |} | |}
| | | |
6 |VII. A.M. 67 |} Marietta. | |}
|XII. M. 75 | 25 miles up the | |} Fair.
| | river. | |}
|V. P.M. 63 | 48 do. | |}
| | | |
7 |VII. A.M. 66 | same place. | |}
|XII. M. 77 | 63 miles up the | |} Fair.
| | river. | |}
|V. P.M. 62 | Grave Creek. | |}
| | | |
8 |VII. A.M. 59 |} do. | |} Fair.
|XII. M. 76 |} | |}
|V. P.M. 70 | Wheeling. | | Shower.
| | | |
9 |VII. A.M. 64 |} | |
|XII. M. 73 |} Wheeling. | | Fair.
|V. P.M. 72 |} | |
| | | |
10 |VII. A.M. 68 | Wheeling. | |}
|XII. M. 84 | 12 miles from | |} Fair.
| | Wheeling. | |}
|V. P.M. 78 | Donegala, a small | |}
| | town in | |} Fair.
| | Pennsylvania. | |}
| | | |
11 |VII. A.M. 74 | Washington, in | |
|XII. M. 84 | Washington | |
|V. P.M. 82 | County, | |
| | Pennsylvania. | |
| | | |
12 |VII. A.M. 72 | same place. | |} Fair.
|XII. M. 84 |} | |}
|V. P.M. 83 |} Brownsville.[61] | |Thundershower
| | | | in the
| | | | evening.

{84} METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS

MADE AT GRENVILLE COLLEGE IN THE STATE OF TENNESSEE

_By_ WILLIAM CHANDLER, A.M. _one of the Tutors_

--------------------------------+-------------------------------------
_March, 1803_ | Observations
--------------------------------+-------------------------------------
Thermometer | The greatest degree of cold was on
-----------+-------+------+-----+ the 2d in the morning: the greatest
Times of |Highest|Lowest|Mean | degree of heat on the 26th P.M.
observation| | | | Prevalent winds from S. to W. A
-----------+-------+------+-----+ very little snow on the9th. From
Morning. | 65 | 63 | 44 | the 1st to 7th fair; on the 7th
Noon. | 73 | 20 | 58 | and 8th much rain, and some thunder;
P.M. | 75 | 20 | 63 | on the 13th, 14th, 15th, 19th, and
-----------+-------+------+-----+ 27th rain, much wind, and thunder.
Barometer |
+-------+------+-----+ The remaining days sunshine and
A.M. |28,80 |28,14 |28,50| pleasant. Peach trees bloom the
M. |28,82 |28,18 |28,56| latter end of this month.
P.M. |28,78 |28,33 |28,55|
-----------+-------+------+-----+-------------------------------------
_April_ | The greatest degree of cold was on
--------------------------------+ the 17th; the greatest degree of
Thermometer | heat was on the 29th. Prevalent
-----------+-------+------+-----+ winds from S. to N.W. Rain on the
Times of |Highest|Lowest|Mean | 4th, 15th, 20th, 22d, 23d, and 25th.
observation| | | | The atmosphere was very smoky a the
-----------+-------+------+-----+ considerable part of remaining days.
A.M. | 70 | 32 | 55 | On the 17th, 18th, and 19th were
M. | 78 | 50 | 69 | frosts which destroyed the young
P.M. | 82 | 54 | 70 | fruit, and the principal part of
-----------+-------+------+-----+ the mast.
Barometer |
+-------+------+-----+ Not much thunder this month.
A.M. |28,79 |28,21 |28,57|
M. |28,79 |28,21 |28,58|
P.M. |28,79 |28,43 |28,57|
-----------+-------+------+-----+-------------------------------------
_May_ |
--------------------------------+
Thermometer | The greatest degree of heat was on
-----------+-------+------+-----+ the 17th; the least on the 9th, when
Times of |Highest|Lowest|Mean | there was frost. Rain on the 1st,
observation| | | | 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 17th, 18th,
-----------+-------+------+-----+ 20th, 22d, 24th, and 26th; the other
A.M. | 70 | 44 | 61 | days were fair; but 25th, few of
M. | 82 | 58 | 73 | them smoky.
P.M. | 86 | 60 | 75 |
-----------+-------+------+-----+ Not much thunder this month.
Barometer |
+-------+------+-----+
A.M. |28,90 |28,26 |28,52|
M. |28,91 |28,26 |28,52|
P.M. |28,89 |28,27 |28,54|
--------------------------------+-------------------------------------
_June_ |
--------------------------------+-------------------------------------
Thermometer |
-----------+-------+------+-----+ Greatest degree of heat on the 17th
Times of |Highest|Lowest|Mean | and 27th, least on the 6th. Rain on
observation| | | | the 4th, 5th, 12th, 15th, 16th,
-----------+-------+------+-----+ 18th, and 19th. The remainder of
A.M. | 76 | 61 | 69 | the month pleasant. No days smoky.
M. | 83 | 72 | 78 |
P.M. | 87 | 72 | 83 | The meazles have prevailed this, and
-----------+-------+------+-----+ the preceding months, with greater
Barometer | severity than had been known before.
+-------+------+-----+ In many instances they proved fatal.
A.M. | 28,80 |28,33 |28,54|
M. | 28,81 |28,32 |28,56|
P.M. |28,77 |28,29 |28,54|
-----------+-------+------+-----+-------------------------------------
{85} _July_ |
--------------------------------+ The greatest degree of heat was on
Thermometer | the 12th and 13th; the least on the
-----------+-------+------+-----+ 6th and7th. The termometer has
Times of |Highest|Lowest|Mean | stood at 90 two or three times at
observation| | | | between III. and IV. P.M. We had
-----------+-------+------+-----+ rain on the 2d, 4th, 16th, 17th,
A.M. | 77 | 64 | 71 | and 24th.
M. | 86 | 72 | 79 |
P.M. | 89 | 75 | 73 | For the two last months the
-----------+-------+------+-----+ prevalent winds were from S.W. to
Barometer | W. We have very few winds from the
+-------+------+-----+ east. Storms are heard to roar in
A.M. | 28,79 |28,39 |28,58| the mountains, fifteen miles south
M. | 28,80 |28,35 |28,59| of this place, for one or more days
P.M. | 28,78 |28,34 |28,57| before they come.
-----------+-------+------+-----+
Note. _The time of P.M. |
observation is a little past |
the greatest heat of the day._ |

FOOTNOTES:

[1] General Rufus Putnam (born in Massachusetts, 1738)
served in the French and Indian War, and later
with distinction in the Revolution. He is best
known to history as the superintendent of the Ohio
Company and the founder of the soldier-colony at
Marietta. Self-educated, and rising to prominence
by force of will and character, his accomplishments
in engineering and surveying, and his services to
Western development, were valuable. Washington
appointed him surveyor-general for the United States
(1793), which position he held for ten years, when
removed as a Federalist by Jefferson. His interests
during all the later years of his life were bound
up with those of Ohio and the Marietta settlement.
At his death (1824) he was (with the exception of
Lafayette) the last surviving general officer of the
Revolutionary army.--ED.

[2] BECKFORD. History of Jamaica, vol. i. p.
191.--HARRIS.

[3] Harris travelled westward by the Pennsylvania
State Road, the great thoroughfare to the Western
country. It was completed about 1785, and passed
west from Carlisle through Shippensburg, Strasburg,
and Bedford. Beyond Bedford the road forked, and
Harris took the lower, or Glade Road. Michaux had
gone out the preceding year by the northern branch,
also reaching Carlisle by a different route. For a
more detailed description than Michaux gives, see
Cuming, _Sketches of a Tour of the Western Country_
(Pittsburg, 1810), which will be republished as vol.
iv of the present series.--ED.

[4] Harris is mistaken in his derivation of the term
“Burnt Cabins.” Little Meadows is nearly a hundred
miles west of this place. Burnt Cabins took its
name from the dispossession of the settlers by the
Pennsylvania authorities in 1750. About ten years
previous, groups of Scotch-Irish had begun to push
over the Susquehanna into the attractive basin of
the Juniata, which was still unpurchased Indian
territory. The aborigines were so incensed that a
deputation went to Philadelphia to protest, and
an Indian war appeared imminent. The government
sent out a commission headed by Secretary Peters,
and including George Croghan and Conrad Weiser
as members, to drive off the intruders and burn
their cabins. The official report is found in
_Pennsylvania Colonial Records_, v, pp. 440-449.
The settlers themselves aided in the work, and
Peters remarked, “It may be proper to add, that the
Cabbins or Log Houses which were burnt were of no
considerable Value, being such as the Country People
erect in a Day or two, and cost only the Charge of
an Entertainment [_i.e._, a log-rolling].” An Indian
war was thus averted. The locality has retained its
name of Burnt Cabins to the present day.--ED.

[5] This is a misprint for Bedford County, in which East
and West Providence townships are situated.--ED.

[6] See Gen. Braddock’s letter to Sir T. Robinson, June
5th, 1755.--HARRIS.

[7] Harris’s allusions to the various roads are
confusing and misleading. The road (Pennsylvania
State) which he left to the north, passing through
Ligonier and Greensburg, followed in the main the
route cut (1758) for Forbes’s army. Braddock’s Road
lay much to the south of this, going out from Fort
Cumberland, Maryland, on the Potomac. The question
of the availability of these two roads was a point
at issue during Forbes’s campaign. See Hulbert,
_Historic Highways of America_ (Cleveland, 1903),
vols. iv, v. Harris took neither Forbes’s Road,
nor Braddock’s (later the line of the Cumberland
National Road), but what was locally known as the
“Old Glade Road,” a branch of Forbes’s Road, leaving
the latter four miles beyond Bedford, and crossing
to the Youghiogheny through Somerset and Mount
Pleasant.--ED.

[8] The Old Glade Road, also locally known as
the Jones’s Mill Road, received legislative
appropriations during the early part of the
nineteenth century, and was quite as popular as
its northern rival, the State Road. It crossed the
Youghiogheny at what is now known as West Newton,
Westmoreland County. The term Budd’s Ferry is found
upon a map of 1792; but in the early part of the
century it was usually spoken of as Robbstown,
from the name of the first proprietor. The road
is now known as the “Wellersburg and West Newton
plank.”--ED.

[9] Letter to Sir T. Robinson, June 5, 1755.--HARRIS.

[10] The Youghiogheny is said to owe its name to the
Kanawha Indians, and to signify “four streams;”
that is, the three branches--Laurel Hill Creek,
the northern; Castleman’s River, the middle, or
southeast fork; and the South fork--unite to form
the fourth or main stream of the river. The point of
intersection was appropriately named Turkey’s Foot,
and at the site is the present town of Confluence,
Somerset County.--ED.

[11] The name of these falls in the Youghiogheny River
probably signifies “beautiful cascade.” At present
the total descent is thirty-six feet, and the
direct fall sixteen. The cascade is utilized for
water-power at the present Falls City, Fayette
County. For sketch of Rittenhouse, see Michaux’s
_Travels_, _ante_, p. 51.--ED.

[12] For note on Elizabethtown, see F. A. Michaux’s
_Travels_, _ante_, p. 162.--ED.

[13] Partly from a little pamphlet, published at
Pittsburg, called “The Ohio Navigator,” with such
other remarks as my own observation and inquiries
could supply.--HARRIS.

[14] For the early history of Morgantown, see F. A.
Michaux’s _Travels_, _ante_, p. 162.--ED.

[15] Jefferson’s Notes on Virginia.--HARRIS.

[16] The citation from Jefferson’s _Notes on Virginia_
ends with the word “seasons.” Jefferson does,
however, discuss the portage from the Cheat to the
Potomac, which he says “will be from 15 to 40 miles,
according to the trouble which shall be taken to
approach the two navigations.” A canal connecting
these two water-systems was a favorite project of
both Jefferson and Washington; the latter at one
time estimated that it would not need to exceed
twenty miles in length.--ED.

[17] New Geneva was originally laid out by Albert
Gallatin, who came to America in 1780, and four
years later bought a farm at the junction of
George’s Creek with the Monongahela. The name
of the town was given in honor of its founder’s
birthplace, and through his influence a number
of Swiss emigrants settled at this place. The
glass works were established by Gallatin (1795)
in conjunction with two German partners, the
Kramers brothers. Gallatin’s country house near New
Geneva was entitled “Friendship Hill,” and thereat
he entertained Lafayette on his last visit to
America.--ED.

[18] This is not to be confused with Greensburg, the
county-seat for Westmoreland. Greensburg (now
Greensboro), here mentioned, is on the Monongahela
in Greene County, nearly opposite New Geneva, and
was laid out by Gallatin’s friend and compatriot,
Badollet.--ED.

[19] For the early history of Brownsville, and the
erection of Fort Burd, see F. A. Michaux’s
_Travels_, _ante_, p. 159; also, Thwaites, _On the
Storied Ohio_.--ED.

[20] Many sailing vessels were built upon the Monongahela
from 1810-11. In the latter year the first steamboat
was launched at Pittsburg, and sailing vessels were
soon superseded.--ED.

[21] The site of Braddock’s field is now occupied by the
manufacturing town which takes its name from the
unfortunate British general. See Thwaites, _On the
Storied Ohio_.--ED.

[22] Loskiel’s History of Moravian missions in
America.--HARRIS.

[23] For the early history of Presqu’ Isle, and the road
built thence by the French expedition of 1753, see
Croghan’s _Journals_, vol. i of this series, p. 101,
note 62.--ED.

[24] For the history of Fort Le Boeuf, see Croghan’s
_Journals_, vol. i of this series, p. 102, note
65.--ED.

[25] Meadville was the earliest settlement in northwest
Pennsylvania, west of the Allegheny River. About
1788 a party came out from Wyoming Valley, led
by David Mead, who afterwards was judge and
major-general of militia for the district. The
settlement was almost exterminated during the Indian
wars, and its inhabitants obliged to take refuge
at Fort Franklin. Nevertheless, Meadville was laid
out as a town in 1793. It is the seat of Allegheny
College, founded in 1815.--ED.

[26] The word _freshet_, says the late Dr. Belknap,
means a river swollen by rain or melted snow, in
the interior country, rising above its usual level,
spreading over the adjacent low lands, and rushing
with an accelerated current to the sea.--Hist. of
New Hampshire, v. 3. preface.--HARRIS.

[27] For a brief notice of Fort Duquesne, see F. A.
Michaux’s _Travels_, _ante_, p. 156, note 20.--ED.

[28] For the two Pittsburg newspapers, see F. A.
Michaux’s _Travels_, _ante_ p. 157, note 21. The
glass works were built by General James O’Hara.--ED.

[29] For a sketch of Fort Fayette, see Michaux’s
_Travels_, _ante_, p. 32.--ED.

[30] Grant’s Hill is so named from the defeat (Sept. 11,
1758) of a detachment of Highlanders under Major
Grant by a party of French and Indians from Fort
Duquesne. Grant, who had been sent out by Bouquet,
commanding the van of Forbes’s army, to reconnoitre,
incautiously approached too near the enemies’
stronghold, was surrounded, and driven back with
many losses.--ED.

[31] Canonsburg was named for its first settler, Colonel
John Canon, who took up the land under a Virginia
warrant in 1773. Colonel Canon was a man of note
in Western Pennsylvania--justice of the peace,
commander of the militia, and representative in the
assembly.

Jefferson College, to which Harris refers, owes its
beginnings to Colonel Canon, who in 1791 donated
the lot and advanced money for building the first
structure. After long years of rivalry, Jefferson
College was finally consolidated (1869) with that
of Washington, at the town of that name, under the
joint title of Washington and Jefferson College.
Canonsburgh Academy occupies the former college
buildings.--ED.

[32] The town of Washington, when laid out in 1780, was
entitled Bassett Town. The name was changed when it
was chosen as the seat of Washington County.--ED.

[33] Alexandria, or West Alexander, was laid out by
Robert Humphreys in 1796. Humphreys, who had been a
Revolutionary soldier, serving under Lafayette, took
up the land on a Virginia military certificate, and
named the town in honor of his wife, whose maiden
name was Martha Alexander.--ED.

[34] Little Wheeling Creek.--HARRIS.

[35] This was the house of Moses Shepherd, son of Colonel
David Shepherd, one of the most prominent of the
pioneer officers of Western Virginia. The latter
came West in 1773, and built a blockhouse and fort
at the junction of Big and Little Wheeling Creeks,
where the village of Elm Grove is now situated.
Colonel Shepherd was county-lieutenant during the
Indian wars, assisted at both sieges of Wheeling,
joined Brodhead’s expedition, and was of great use
in protecting the frontier. The house mentioned by
Harris is said to be still standing.--ED.

[36] For the early history of Wheeling, see Michaux’s
_Travels_, _ante_, p. 33, note 15. There were two
routes from Pittsburg to Wheeling; one more direct,
but rougher, passing through West Liberty, was taken
by the younger Michaux (_q. v._) the year previous;
the stage route, by way of Canonsburg, Washington,
and Alexandria was that chosen by Harris.--ED.

[37] Fish Creek was on the “Warrior Branch,” a great
Indian highway leading from the Ohio into Tennessee.
The locality is interesting for its connection with
the early life of George Rogers Clark, who explored
the neighborhood as early as 1772, and passed the
succeeding winter in a log cabin about a mile above
Fish Creek. Clark was a leader among the young men
on the frontier, and held a school for them at the
cabin of his friend Yates Conwell, built directly
at the mouth of Fish Creek. The two years passed
here were valuable in the experience thus gained of
frontier life, which made his later career so marked
a success.--ED.

[38] Michaux says (_ante_, p. 177) that the inhabitants
of Marietta were the first to conduct an exchange
with the West Indies by means of vessels built at
their own docks.--ED.

[39] Judge Joseph Gilman was a native of New Hampshire,
where he had served as chairman of the committee of
safety during the troubled times of the Revolution.
He was one of the Ohio associates and removed to
Marietta in 1789. Governor St. Clair appointed him
probate judge, judge of the court of common pleas,
etc., until (1796) he was chosen one of the three
judges of the territory, an office which he filled
acceptably until the organization of the state of
Ohio (1803), when he again became a local justice.
Judge Gilman died at Marietta in 1806 at the age of
seventy.

His collaborator, Judge Dudley Woodbridge, was a
Connecticut man, graduate of Yale College, and
educated for the bar. The Revolution interrupted his
legal studies, which he later resumed, and after
removal to Ohio he was one of the first justices of
the new state. His son, William, became prominent in
politics, and was governor of Michigan.--ED.

[40] Joseph Tomlinson was the son of a Scotch-Irish
emigrant who had settled in Maryland, where the
former was born in 1745. He explored this region
as early as 1770, but made a permanent location
in 1772. The first town that Tomlinson attempted
to establish (1795), he named Elizabethtown for
his wife. It was later merged in Moundsville, West
Virginia, of which Tomlinson was also proprietor and
founder.--ED.

[41] The Biggs family was an important one in the pioneer
annals of Western Virginia. The father migrated from
Maryland, and about 1770 settled on Short Creek
above Wheeling. There were six sons noted as Indian
fighters of whom General Benjamin Biggs was best
known, having served in Lord Dunmore’s War and that
of the Revolution, and acting as brigadier-general
of Ohio County militia during the later Indian wars.
His papers form part of the Draper Manuscripts
Collection, belonging to the Wisconsin Historical
Society. Probably the Colonel Biggs mentioned by
Harris was Joseph, he having bought one of the first
lots in Elizabeth (now Moundsville).

Joseph Biggs took part as a boy in the siege of Fort
Henry, at Wheeling; defended a besieged blockhouse
in Ohio, opposite Wheeling, in 1791; and finally
died in Ohio about 1833. He claimed to have been
in seventeen Indian fights in and about the
neighborhood of Wheeling.--ED.

[42] This singular marking-stone is now deposited in Mr.
Turell’s Cabinet of Curiosities in Boston.--HARRIS.

[43] George Millar had one of the first potteries of this
region at Wheeling, and served as mayor of the town
(1806-7).--ED.

[44] For recent study of Indian mounds, consult
Smithsonian Institution _Report_, 1891 (Washington,
1893); also American Bureau of Ethnology, _Twelfth
Annual Report_ (Washington, 1894).--ED.

[45] Harris returned from Wheeling by a road which
followed the route later taken by the National
or Cumberland Road from Wheeling to Uniontown,
in Fayette County. See Searight, _The Old Pike:
A History of the National Road_ (Uniontown,
Pennsylvania, 1894) for the building and
continuation of this road, as well as the
Congressional debates thereon.

The town of Donegala has vanished from the map; it
was probably at or near the present Claysville, in
Donegal Township, Washington County.--ED.

[46] Judge Alexander Addison was a Scotchman who first
entered the ministry; afterwards studying for the
bar, he became the first law judge in western
Pennsylvania. His opposition to the Whiskey
Rebellion, and prosecution of its leaders, and his
strong Federalist attitude, made him many enemies
among the Western settlers, at whose instance he
was impeached and removed from the bench in 1802.
Addison was succeeded by Judge Samuel Roberts, who
had been born and educated in Philadelphia. Admitted
to the bar in 1793, he was a successful lawyer when
placed upon the bench (1803), where he remained
until his death in 1820.--ED.

[47] The site of Uniontown was first occupied in 1767
by two Scotch-Irishmen, who were bought out by
Henry Beeson, whose blacksmith forge and mill early
attracted settlers. A blockhouse was built here in
1774, and two years later a town was laid out, known
as Beesontown. This did not flourish until after
the Revolution, when the present name of Uniontown
gradually came into use. The place was incorporated
in 1796, and made the seat of Fayette County.--ED.

[48] Connellsville, at the head of navigation of the
Youghiogheny, was settled by sons-in-law of Colonel
William Crawford, for one of whom the town was
named, when laid out in 1793. It prospered because
of its mills and navigation interests, and in 1806
was incorporated as a borough.--ED.

[49] Fort Cumberland was built the winter before
Braddock’s campaign, by the independent companies
sent out from New York and North Carolina to support
Washington in his advance toward the forks of the
Ohio. The first title was Fort Mount Pleasant, soon
changed in honor of the commander of the British
army. The fort was garrisoned until the close of the
French wars in 1765, and never again re-occupied
save for a few days during the Whiskey Rebellion
(1794). For a detailed history of this place, see
Lowdermilk, _History of Cumberland_ (Washington,
1878).--ED.

[50] For the early history of Chambersburg, see Post’s
_Journals_, vol. i of this series, p. 238, note
77. Harris returned east by the southern route, or
Chambersburg pike, which branched from the main
route some twelve miles east of Bedford, passed
through the central part of Franklin and Adams
counties, and through York to Wright’s Ferry on the
Susquehanna.--ED.

[51] This is now known as New Oxford, a town in Adams
County; it was laid out by a German, Henry Kuhns, in
1792.--ED.

[52] This territory was largely a German settlement, and
few towns were desired. Abbottstown was laid out by
a pioneer of that name, as early as 1753, but not
incorporated until 1835.--ED.

[53] Those places where the best entertainment for
travellers is furnished, are distinguished by this
mark.¶--HARRIS.

[54] At this place guests are regaled with a repast of
fine trout.--HARRIS.

[55] From Bedford to Baltimore 143 miles, and to
Pittsburg 111 miles.--HARRIS.

[56] The southernmost road is called the _Glade road_,
and is considered as the best except after heavy
rains; the northernmost is called the _Old_ or
_Forbes’s road_, and goes by Fort Ligonier. These
roads unite twenty-eight miles on this side of
Pittsburg.--HARRIS.

[57] The whole distance from Boston to Wheeling, the road
we went, is 817 miles, and from Philadelphia 472
miles.--HARRIS.

[58] See the preceding Journal.--HARRIS.

[59] Neat chambers, clean beds, and soft pillows; sweet
water, and assiduous attendance.--HARRIS.

[60] From Bedford our direction has been north to the
amount of more than a degree.--HARRIS.

[61] At this place I was so unfortunate as to break my
Thermometer.--HARRIS.

“The bare title hardly conveys an idea of the interesting lore embraced in this admirably carried out study of the roads and their part in the development of the country.”--_Boston Globe._

The Historic Highways of America

by ARCHER BUTLER HULBERT

A series of monographs on the History of America as portrayed in the evolution of its highways of War, Commerce, and Social Expansion.

Comprising the following volumes:

I--Paths of the Mound-Building Indians and Great Game Animals.
II--Indian Thoroughfares.
III--Washington’s Road: The First Chapter of the Old French War.
IV--Braddock’s Road.
V--The Old Glade (Forbes’s) Road.
VI--Boone’s Wilderness Road.
VII--Portage Paths: The Keys of the Continent.
VIII--Military Roads of the Mississippi Basin.
IX--Waterways of Westward Expansion.
X--The Cumberland Road.
XI, XII--Pioneer Roads of America, two volumes.
XIII, XIV--The Great American Canals, two volumes.
XV--The Future of Road-Making in America.
XVI--Index.

Sixteen volumes, crown 8vo, cloth, uncut, gilt tops. A LIMITED EDITION only printed direct from type, and the type distributed. Each volume handsomely printed in large type on Dickinson’s hand-made paper, and illustrated with maps, plates, and facsimiles.

Published a volume each two months, beginning September, 1902.

PRICE, volumes 1 and 2, $2.00 net each; volumes 3 to 16, $2.50 net each.

FIFTY SETS PRINTED ON LARGE PAPER, each numbered and _signed by the author_. Bound in cloth, with paper label, uncut, gilt tops. Price, $5.00 net per volume.

“The history of American trails and carries in colonial times; of paths, roads, and highways in our national beginnings; and of our great lake, river, and railroad traffic in later times is and has been of the first importance in our social and political history. Mr. Hulbert has shown himself abundantly able to investigate the subject and put in good form the results of his labors.”--Professor WILLIAM M. SLOANE, _Princeton University_.

“Mr. Hulbert has evidently mastered his subject, and has treated it very ably and enthusiastically. History is too frequently a mere collection of dry bones, but here we have a book which, when once begun, will be read eagerly to the end, so vividly does the author bring scenes and personages before us.”--_Current Literature._

“As in the prior volumes, the general effect is that of a most entertaining series. The charm of the style is evident.”--_American Historical Review._

“His style is effective ... an invaluable contribution to the makings of American History.”--_New York Evening Post._

“Should fill an important and unoccupied place in American historical literature.”--_The Dial._

“The most important project ever undertaken in the line of Philippine history in any language, above all the English.”--_New York Evening Post._

_The_ Philippine Islands

1493-1898

Being the history of the Philippines
from their discovery to the present time

EXPLORATIONS by early Navigators, descriptions of the Islands and their Peoples, their History, and records of the Catholic Missions, as related in contemporaneous books and manuscripts, showing the political, economic, commercial, and religious conditions of those Islands from their earliest relations with European Nations to the end of the nineteenth century.

_Translated, and edited and annotated by_ E. H. BLAIR _and_ J. A. ROBERTSON, _with introduction and additional notes by_ E. G. BOURNE.

With Analytical Index and Illustrations. Limited edition, 55 volumes, large 8vo, cloth, uncut, gilt top. Price $4.00 net per volume.

“The work is second in importance only to the original documents; to the student it is even of greater value, since it places before him translations of these historical data which would otherwise be totally inaccessible, and without which no work on the Philippines could be definitive.”--_American Anthropologist._

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