Chapter XXII: Statistical and Political 446

LIST OF PLATES

Ararat from Aralykh Frontispiece
Trebizond from above the Head of the Western Ravine
To face page 12
Trebizond: Hagia Sophia 24
Trebizond: Façade of Hagia Sophia on the South 25
Plain of the Rion from the Southern Slopes of Caucasus:
Kutais in the Foreground 46
View North from the Zikar Pass Back to page 52
View South from the Zikar Pass 53
Safar: St. Saba from the West 62
Safar: Porch of St. Saba 63
Akhaltsykh from the Road to Akhalkalaki To face page 65
Castle of Khertvis 76
Vardzia, the Troglodyte City 80
Mount Abul from Akhalkalaki 92
Summer Pavilion at Gorelovka 109
Alagöz from the Plain of Alexandropol 122
Alexandropol from the Armenian Cemetery 125
Ararat from near Aramzalu 153
Great Ararat from above Sardar Bulakh 165
Our Kurd Porters on Ararat 167
Akhury: The Great Chasm from Aralykh 179
Akhury: Inside the Great Chasm 194
Erivan and Ararat from the North 208
Erivan: Interior of the Kiosque of the Sirdars 216
Edgmiatsin: The Great Court and the Cathedral 243
Edgmiatsin: Ceremony of the Consecration of the
Katholikos--Anointing with Oil from the Beak of a
Golden Dove 254
Edgmiatsin: Interior of the Cathedral 267
Edgmiatsin: Exterior of St. Ripsime 269
Edgmiatsin: Exterior of St. Gaiane 270
Edgmiatsin: Exterior of Shoghakath 271
Talin: Mouldings on South Side of Ruinous Church 322
Walls and Gateway of the City of Ani from Outside,
looking East 369
Ani: The Cathedral from South-East 370
Ani: Niche in Eastern Wall of Cathedral 371
Ani: Apse of the Cathedral 372
Ani: Church of St. Gregory from the West 373
Ani: North Wall of the Church of St. Gregory 374
Ani: Detail of the Porch of St. Gregory 375
Ani: Mosque and Minaret 376
Ani: Detail of Doorway of Chapel near Citadel 379
Ani: Chapel of St. Gregory, East Side 380
Ani: Chapel of St. Gregory, Entrance 381
Ani: Interior of the Chapel of St. Gregory 382
Ani: Chapel of the Redeemer 383
Ani: Doorway of the Castle 384
Ani: Portal of the Church of the Apostles from the West 385
Ani: East Front of the Church of the Apostles 386
Khosha Vank: Pronaos 387
Khosha Vank: Exterior of Pronaos and Church from South-West 388
Khosha Vank: Hall of the Synod 389
Looking down the Valley of Kagyzman 417
A Rib or Buttress of Aghri Dagh 419
Pass over Aghri Dagh 420

ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT

Entrance to the Black Sea from the Bosphorus 3
Interior of Hagia Sophia 27
Banks of the Rion above Kutais 46
Road in the Forest 50
Georgians 51
Portrait of Ivan 59
Group of Villagers at Khertvis 77
Archimandrite and Deacon at Vardzia 82
Head Waters of the Arpa Chai 121
Byzantine Picture in Greek Church 128
Wedding Party at Alexandropol 130
Church of Marmashen from S.W. 131
Alagöz from the Head Waters of the Abaran 136
Ararat: Aralykh in the foreground 155
Our Cavalcade on Ararat 159
Our Encampment at Sardar Bulakh 163
Little Ararat from near Sardar Bulakh 164
Summit of Ararat from the South-East, taken at a height
of about 13,000 feet 180
Boulders near Akhury 191
Ararat from a house-top in Erivan 207
Alagöz from a house-top in Erivan 208
Entrance to Gök Jami, Erivan 213
Court with basin of Gök Jami, Erivan 214
The Temple, Gök Jami 215
Pilgrims' Court, Edgmiatsin 230
The Katholikos Mekertich Khrimean 237
The Lake at Edgmiatsin 246
Ararat from the Lake at Edgmiatsin 247
Armenian Nun 252
Interior of the Portal of the Cathedral 266
Episcopal Staves 268
Sculptured Stone 271
Village of Talin, with Mount Bugutu 322
Mouldings on North Side of Ruinous Church at Talin 323
Tartar Khan at Talin } 324
Pristav of Talin }
Priest of Talin 325
Tartar of Akhja Kala 326
Alagöz from the Plains on the West 327
Greek Girl of Subotan 331
Ani: Bas-relief on the Inner Wall of the Gateway 369
Ani: Sculptured Stone Moulding 373
Ani: Walled Enclosure and Chapel 376
Ani: Building on the Citadel 378
Ani: Pilaster in the Building on the Citadel 379
Ani: Landscape from the southern extremities of the site 380
Ani: The Castle 383
The Monastery of Khosha Vank: east side 386
Khosha Vank: Chapels in the Ravine of the Arpa Chai 387
The Citadel of Kars 406
Molokan Elder at Vladikars 411
House at Novo-Michaelovka 412
Aghri Dagh from the Araxes Cañon 414
Cliffs composing Northern Wall of Araxes Cañon 415
The Araxes near Kagyzman 416
Kara Vank on Aghri Dagh 419
Map of the Armenian Plateau 452

LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS

Plan of the Ancient Fortifications of Trebizond To face page 13
Trebizond and Surroundings 30
Plan of the Monastery and Churches of Edgmiatsin
Between pages 244 and 245
Plan of the Deserted City of Ani To face page 390
Kars and Surroundings 395
The Structural Features of Asia Between pages 422 and 423
Map of Armenia and Adjacent Countries Cover