Chapter I: Front Matter

ARMINIUS VAMBÉRY

HIS LIFE AND ADVENTURES

WRITTEN BY HIMSELF

WITH INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER DEDICATED TO THE BOYS OF ENGLAND

Portrait and Seventeen Illustrations

London T. FISHER UNWIN 26 PATERNOSTER SQUARE 1889

FIFTH AND POPULAR EDITION.

=ARMINIUS VAMBÉRY=: His Life and Adventures. Written by
Himself. With Portrait and 14 Illustrations. Square
Imperial 16mo, cloth extra, 6s.

"A most fascinating work, full of interesting and
curious experiences."--_Contemporary Review._

"It is partly an autobiographic sketch of character,
partly an account of a singularly daring and successful
adventure in the exploration of a practically unknown
country. In both aspects it deserves to be spoken of as
a work of great interest and of considerable
merit."--_Saturday Review._

"We can follow M. Vambéry's footsteps in Asia with
pride and pleasure; we welcome every word he has to
tell us about the ethnography and the languages of the
East."--_Academy._

"The character and temperament of the writer come out
well in his quaint and vigorous style.... The
expressions, too, in English, of modes of thought and
reflections cast in a different mould from our own
gives additional piquancy to the composition, and,
indeed, almost seems to bring out unexpected capacities
in the language."--_Athenæum._

"Has all the fascination of a lively romance. It is the
confession of an uncommon man; an intensely clever,
extraordinarily energetic egotist, well-informed,
persuaded that he is in the right and impatient of
contradiction."--_Daily Telegraph._

"The work is written in a most captivating manner, and
illustrates the qualities that should be possessed by
the explorer."--_Novoe Vremya, Moscow._

"We are glad to see a popular edition of a book which,
however it be regarded, must be pronounced unique. The
writer, the adventures, and the style are all
extraordinary--the last not the least of the three. It
is flowing and natural--a far better style than is
written by the majority of English travellers."--_St.
James's Gazette._

*** _Over Eighty other English and Foreign periodicals
have reviewed this work._

LONDON: T. FISHER UNWIN, 26, PATERNOSTER SQUARE.

CONTENTS.
PAGE

PREFATORY NOTE xiii

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER xv

I.

EARLY YEARS.

Tutor and Waiter--Vacation Rambles--Literary Studies--Linguistic Studies 1

II.

THE FIRST JOURNEY.

At Galacz--A Storm at Sea--Penniless in Pera--A Teacher of Languages--Teaching a Turk--Hussein Daim Pasha--Ahmed Effendi 15

III.

LIFE IN STAMBUL.

My First Book--Seeking for an Ancient Dialect--My Friends' Opinion of my Journey--"Reshid Effendi" 34

IV.

FROM TREBIZOND TO ERZERUM.

At Trebizond--On the road to Erzerum 42

V.

FROM ERZERUM TO THE PERSIAN FRONTIER.

The Frontier of Kurdistan--Attacked by Robbers--Tales of Robbers--An Old Friend 47

VI.

FROM THE PERSIAN BORDER TO TEBRIZ.

On Persian Soil--The Bazaar at Khoy--The Seids 56

VII.

IN TEBRIZ

Study of the Shi-ite Sect--Holy Water--An Old Acquaintance--A Royal Investiture--An Overworked Embassy 64

VIII.

IN ZENDJAN.

A Persian Medico--A Persian Miracle-Play--Tragedy Appreciated 77

IX.

FROM KAZVIN TO TEHERAN.

The Atoning Procession 85

X.

IN TEHERAN.

Talking to Turks of Home--Social Contrasts in Asia 89

XI.

THE SALT DESERT OF DESHTI-KUVIR.

Choosing a Companion--Morning Prayer--The Desert of Devils--The Caravan of the Dead 94

XII.

KUM AND KASHAN.

The City of Virgins--The Tomb of Fatima--Kashan--Murder in the Desert 104

XIII.

FROM ISFAHAN TO THE SUPPOSED TOMB OF CYRUS.

The Pope of Isfahan--Movable Towers--Tales for Travellers--Gazelles in the Desert--Fars 113

XIV.

PERSEPOLIS.

Solomon's Throne--A Morning Reverie--Vandalism in Persia--Embracing the Pilgrims 125

XV.

SHIRAZ.

Fertility of Shiraz--A Linguist's Joke--Persian Cruelty--Saadi--Europeans Feasting in Persia--An Earthquake in Shiraz--Desolation 136

XVI.

PREPARATIONS FOR MY JOURNEY TO CENTRAL ASIA.

Chivalrous Dervishes--Scruples--Journey with Tartars--Committed to His Purpose 150

XVII.

FROM TEHERAN TO THE LAND OF THE TURKOMANS.

Description of the Caravan--Incognito Unveiled--Thieving Jackals--Unrequited Love--The Slave Trade 161

XVIII.

GOMUSHTEPE.

Receiving the Pilgrims--How to become a Dervish--Learning in the Wilds--Slavery--A Betrothal Feast--A Robber Chief 174

XIX.

FROM GOMUSHTEPE TO THE BORDER OF THE DESERT.

Threatened by the Wild Boar--An Anxious Moment 187

XX.

IN THE DESERT.

Suspicion Aroused--A Pious Brother--Karendag Mountains--Little Balkan Mountain--Charm of the Desert--Thirst!--Hot Weather 192

XXI.

IN KHIVA.

An Army of Asses--Rest and Dread--Making a Friend--The Khan--A Lion in Khiva--Fierce Barbarism 213

XXII.

FROM KHIVA TO BOKHARA.

Intoxicated Dervishes--A Khivan Fair--Flying from Tekkes--Thirst and Despair--Among Slaves 233

XXIII.

IN BOKHARA.

Life in Bokhara--More Suspicions--Theology in Bokhara--The Slave Trade--The Road to Samarkand 244

XXIV.

IN SAMARKAND.

Tombs of the Saints--Ambition and Prudence--A Royal Cross-Examiner 254

XXV.

FROM SAMARKAND TO HERAT.

Taken for a Runaway Slave--A Scorpion Bite--Saved by Prayers--Redemption of Slaves--Exorbitant Tolls 263

XXVI.

IN HERAT AND BEYOND IT.

A City in Ruins--Yakub Khan--Freezing Weather 275

XXVII.

IN MESHED.

A Meshed Crowd--An Unceremonious Visitor--A Welcome--A Meshed Monument--Persecution of Jews--The Tomb of Firdusi 283

XXVIII.

FROM MESHED TO TEHERAN.

An Old Friend--Saddle _v._ Cushions--A Curious Phenomenon--Alone in the Desert--An Englishman--A Snug Berth--Confounding the Disturbers--Reputation without Foundation 297

XXIX.

FROM TEHERAN TO TREBIZOND.

The Discomforts of Civilization--Presented to the Shah--Persian Official Corruption--A Character--An Expensive Photographer 314

XXX.

HOMEWARDS.

Constantinople--London 325

XXXI.

IN ENGLAND.

Sir Henry Rawlinson--Sir Roderick Murchison--Lord Strangford--A Lion in London--At Burlington House--The Sorrows of Authorship 330

XXXII.

IN PARIS.

Napoleon III.--French Suspicions 343