Chapter I: Preface

In submitting the following pages to the public, I am conscious that some readers who desire exact and scientific descriptions of the geography and geology of Patagonia will be disappointed; but it must be urged as an apology that instruments could not be carried nor safely used under the circumstances. The course travelled was as carefully laid down, by the help of a compass, as was possible; and the map of the country is so far accurate, and, if incomplete, at least is not imaginative. To others who may perhaps eagerly expect tales of stirring adventure and hair-breadth escapes, such as are usually recounted as the every-day occurrences of uncivilised life, I can only express the hope that this faithful record of life with the Indians all the year round, if not very sensational, will serve at least to make them really at home with the Tehuelches. It is a pleasanter task to record my thanks to those by whose assistance the results of my journey have been utilised; foremost of whom is the venerable ex-President of the Royal Geographical Society, Sir RODERICK MURCHISON, whose kindly reception and introduction of the returned traveller to the Society are gratefully acknowledged. My obligations are scarcely less to CLEMENTS MARKHAM, C.B., whose unrivalled knowledge of the early history as well as the geography of South America has been freely placed at my disposal; and to Dr. HOOKER, Director of the Royal Gardens, Kew, for his courteous assistance in identifying some of the plants observed: while to Mr. RUDLER, of the Museum of Mines, I am indebted for a careful classification of the various specimens of rocks and minerals collected in the country. Lastly, the reader will share in my gratitude to Mr. ZWECKER, whose able pencil has created, out of rough outlines sketched in a pocket-book, the vivid and faithful illustrations which bring before his eyes the scenery and incidents of life in Patagonia.

G. C. M.
_September 1, 1871._

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

FROM THE STRAITS TO SANTA CRUZ.
PAGE
Journey Planned. -- Preparations. -- Passage from Stanley. -- The
Straits. -- First Footsteps in Patagonia. -- The Narrows. --
Punta Arenas. -- Commandante Viel. -- The Colony. -- The Town.
-- Chilotes and Convicts. -- Resources. -- Visit to the Coal
Bed. -- Lieut. Gallegos. -- The Start. -- Rio Chaunco. -- The
Patagonian Pampas. -- Our Party. -- Cabecera del Mar. -- Oazy
Harbour. -- A useless Chase. -- A Fireless Night. -- Volcanic
Hills. -- Pampa Yarns. -- Rio Gallegos. -- First Indians. --
Sam Slick. -- Rio Cuheyli. -- Meeting with Tehuelches. --
Caravan of Women. -- 'Anglish' Politeness. -- Desert. -- Santa
Cruz at last 1

CHAPTER II.

SANTA CRUZ.

Introduction to Chiefs. -- Orkeke. -- Chilian Deserters. -- The
Settlement. -- Island of Pabon. -- Natural Advantages. -- The
Mission Station. -- Mr. Clarke. -- Our Circle at Pabon. --
Expedition to Lake Viedma. -- Winter Occupations. -- Work and
Play. -- Casimiro's Adventures. -- His Character. -- A Winter
Hunting Excursion. -- A Pampa Snow-storm. -- The Santa Cruz
Valley. -- Up the River. -- The Northern Hills. -- Pumas. --
Devil's Eyes. -- Hunting on Foot. -- Intense Cold. -- Return of
the Deserters. -- Visit to the Indian Camp. -- First Night in a
Toldo. -- Towing a Horse. -- Adieu to Santa Cruz 33