Chapter I: Front Matter

AT THE COURT OF THE AMÎR

The Amîr of Afghanistan, from a painting by the Author.]

AT THE
COURT OF THE AMÎR

A NARRATIVE

BY
JOHN ALFRED GRAY, M.B. LOND.
LATE SURGEON TO H.H. THE AMÎR OF AFGHANISTAN

LONDON
RICHARD BENTLEY AND SON
Publishers in Ordinary to Her Majesty the Queen
1895
[_All Rights Reserved_]

THE APOLOGY.

I would not have thought of inflicting a book on my long-suffering fellow-countrymen, but for the wish expressed by my publishers: for

“Every fool describes in these bright days
His wondrous journey to some Foreign Court.”

In Afghanistan however, difficult of access, and hence comparatively unknown, there have been, since that strong man Amîr Abdurrahman ascended the Throne, such remarkable changes in the administration of the country, and such strides towards civilization, that it was thought a narrative of life there, throwing, possibly, some light on the personality of the Monarch, and on the “bent” of the people, might be of general interest.

The book has been written in the intervals of professional work, and, with its shortcomings of diction and style, the only merit it can claim--that of “local colour”--is due to the fact that it was compiled from the letters I wrote from Afghanistan to her who is now my wife.

WADHAM LODGE,
UXBRIDGE ROAD,
EALING, W.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

CHAPTER I.

ON THE ROAD TO KABUL

The start and the wherefore. Unsettled condition of Afghanistan. Departure from Peshawur. Jumrûd Fort and the Watch-tower. The Afghan guard. The Khyber defile. Eccentricities of Rosinante. Lunch at Ali Musjid. Pathan villages. Pathans, their appearance and customs. Arrival at Landi-Kotal Serai. The Shenwari country. Caravan of Traders. Dakka. Dangers of the Kabul River. Mussaks. Camp at Bassawal. Chahardeh. Mountain road by the river. Distant view of Jelalabad.

CHAPTER II.

ARRIVAL AT KABUL

Arrival at Jelalabad, Reception by the Governor. The Palace. The Town. The Plain. Quarters in the Guest Pavilion. The friendly Khan. Tattang and the gunpowder factory. The Royal gardens at Nimla. The Suffêd Koh Mountains. Arboreal distribution in Afghanistan. Gundamuk. Assassination of Cavagnari: details of the plot. The “Red bridge.” Commencement of mountainous ascent to Kabul. Jigdilik. Massacre of British in 1837. Former dangers of the valley of Katasang. Enterprising peasants. Tomb in the Sei Baba valley. Burial customs. The Lataband Pass and the Iron Cage. Distant view of Kabul. The Amîr’s projected road at Lataband. The approach to Kabul. The Lahore Gate.

CHAPTER III.

THE RECEPTION

Position of Kabul. Its defences. Amîr’s opinion of the Founders of his Capital. Entry into Kabul. Aspect of the Townsmen. Arrival at the Arm Foundry. Visit of the Afghan Official. His appearance. Absence of Amîr. To be received at the Palace by the Princes. The approach to the Palace. The Amîr’s Pavilion. Page boys. The Princes Habibullah and Nasrullah. The Reception. Internal arrangement of Pavilion. The earthquake. Abrupt ending of the Reception. Other buildings in the Palace.

CHAPTER IV.

AFGHAN HOSPITALS

The first attendance at an Afghan Hospital. Its arrangement. The drugs and instruments. The Patients. An Interpreter presents himself. Dispensers. Marvellous recovery of the Page boy. Its effect. Buildings near the Hospital. The Durbar Hall and Guest House. The Sherpûr Military Hospital. Lord Roberts and the Sherpûr Cantonment. Adventure with an Afghan soldier. Arrangement of the In-patient Hospital. Diet of Patients. Attendance of Hakims. Storekeepers and their ways.

CHAPTER V.

AFGHAN DWELLINGS

The Residential streets of Kabul. Their appearance and arrangement. The Police. Criminal Punishments. The Houses. Their internal arrangement. Precautions to ensure privacy. Manner of building for the rich and for the poor. Effect of rain and earthquake. The warming of houses in winter. Afternoon teas. Bath-houses. The Afghan bath.

CHAPTER VI.

THE KABUL BAZAARS

The unpopular Governor and his toothache. The meeting in the Erg Bazaar. Appearance of the Kabul Bazaars. The shops and their contents. Boots, shoes, and cobblers. Copper workers. The tinning of cooking pots. Impromptu tobacco pipes. Tobacco smoking by the Royal Family. Silk and cotton. “Bargaining.” “Restaurants.” Tea drinking. Confectioners. The baker’s oven. Flour mills. The butcher’s shop. Postîns and their cost. Furs. Ironmongers. Arms. “The German sword.” The Afghan tulwar. Rifles and pistols. Bows. Silver and gold-smiths. Caps and turbans. Embroidery. Grocers: tea, sugar, soap, and candles, and where they come from. Fruiterers. Tailors. “The Railway Guard.” Costume of the Kabuli townsmen. Personal effect of the Amîr on costume. Drug shops.

CHAPTER VII.

ETHICS

Sir S. Pyne’s adventure in the Kabul river. The Tower on the bank. Minars of Alexander. Mahomedan Mosques. The cry of the Priest. Prayers and Religious Processions. Afghan conception of God. Religious and non-Religious Afghans. The schoolhouse and the lessons. Priests. Sêyids: descendants of the Prophet. The lunatic Sêyid. The Hafiz who was fined. The Dipsomaniac. The Chief of the Police and his ways. Danger of prescribing for a prisoner. “The Thing that walks at night.” The end of the Naib. Death-bed services. The Governor of Bamian. Courtship and weddings among the Afghans. The formal proposal by a Superior Officer. The wedding of Prince Habibullah. Priests as healers of the sick. The “Evil Eye.” Ghosts.

CHAPTER VIII.

AFGHAN SURGEONS AND PHYSICIANS

Accidents from machinery in motion. The “dressers of wounds” in Afghanistan. Their methods of treating wounds, and the results of the same. The “Barber surgeons.” Tooth drawing and bleeding. The Hindustani “Doctors.” “Eye Doctors” and their work. The Hakims or Native Physicians. Treatment of disease by the People. Aspect in which European Physicians are viewed by the different Classes.

CHAPTER IX.

THE MARCH TO TURKESTAN

Jealousy and its results. Sport among the Afghans. The “Sportsmen” among the mountains. Order to join the Amîr in Turkestan. Preparations. Camp at Chiltan. The Banquet. The Nautch dance. Among the Hindu Kush mountains. The camp in the Hazara country. Courtesy of Jan Mahomed. Mountain paths. Iron spring. The underground river and the Amîr’s offer. The Red mountain and the Deserted City. Camp in the Valley of Bamian. The English prisoners of 1837. The Petrified Dragon. The Colossal Idols: The Cave-dwellers. The Pass of the “Tooth-breaker.” Ghuzniguk. Story of Ishak’s rebellion. Tash Kurghán: the Shave and the Hospital. “The Valley of Death.” The Plains of Turkestan and the heat thereof. The Mirage. Arrival at Mazar. The House. Story of the death of Amîr Shere Ali.

CHAPTER X.

THE AMÎR

To be “presented.” The Palace Gardens. The Amîr. Questions asked by His Highness. Punishment of rebellious in Afghanistan. Asiatic motives from European standpoint. Amîr’s arrangement for my safety. Bazaars and houses of Mazar. The Suburbs. The Military Hospital. The Patients. Afghan appreciation of European medical treatment. The two chief Hakims. Hindustani intrigue. Amîr’s sense of Justice. The Trial. A Courtier’s influence. The guard of the Amîr’s table.

CHAPTER XI.

LIFE IN TURKESTAN

General Nassir Khan. The Belgian’s Request. Escape of Allah Nûr: his Capture. The Amîr’s Decision. The Turkestan Commander-in-Chief. Operation on Allah Nûr. The Armenian’s Comments. Illness of Hadji Jan Mahomed. Excursion to Takh-ta-Pûl. Fortune-telling among the Afghans. The Policeman-cook and the Lunch. Balkh. The Mosque at Mazar-i-Sherif and its Miracles. Called to His Highness. The Cool-air Pavilion. Illness of the British Agent: the Armenian’s advice: the Answer from the Amîr. Brigadier Hadji-Gul Khan. Afghan Endurance of Suffering. Euclid and Cards.

CHAPTER XII.

THE INHABITANTS OF AFGHANISTAN

Slaves in Kabul: prisoners of war and others. The frequent rebellions. The different nationalities in Afghanistan. Origin of the Afghan race. The Turk Sabaktakin. Mahmûd of Ghuzni. Buddhism displaced by Mahomedanism. Border Afghans. Duranis. Ghilzais. Founding of a Dynasty of Afghan Kings. Ahmad Shah. Timûr Shah. The Sons of Timûr. Zaman Shah. The Afghan “Warwick.” Execution of Paînda. Rebellion of the Shah’s brother. Mahmûd Shah. Another brother rebels. Shujah-ul-Mulk crowned: deposed by the Barakzai chief. Exile of Shujah. The Koh-i-nûr. The Puppet-king and the Barakzai Wazir. Murder of the Wazir. The Wazir’s brother becomes Amîr. The first Afghan War. Rule of Dôst Mahomed: A Standing Army established. Accession of Shere Ali. Amîr Afzal Khan. Abdurrahman. The Ghilzais. Border Pathans, Afridis, Shinwaris. The Hazaras. Turkomans, Usbàks. The Christian Church.

CHAPTER XIII.

THE BIRTH OF PRINCE MAHOMED OMER

Hazara slaves, Kaffir slaves, and others. Court Pages. High positions occupied by slaves. Price of slaves. Wife and children of Hazara Chief in slavery. Illness of the Hostage of an Afghan Chief. Abdur Rashid down with fever. Own illness and the aches thereof. The British Agent’s postal arrangements. Postage in Afghanistan. Power of annoying possessed by Interpreters. The Chief Bugler. The Page boy and the Sirdar. The Page boy and the Amîr. The uproar on September 15th. Congratulations to the Sultana. The crowd outside the Harem Serai. The Sultana’s reply. Matter of succession complicated. Surgical operations. The Priest with a blemish: his request. The Amîr’s reply. The operation. The Mirza’s comments.

CHAPTER XIV.

THE REARING OF THE INFANT PRINCE

The Amîr’s autograph letter. Medical consultation concerning the rearing of the Prince. Conflicting customs of the Orient and the Occident. Conservative nurses. The “Hakim fair to see”: the patient. Lessons in Persian and in English. Portrait painting. Dietary difficulties. Gracious acts of His Highness. Amîr’s letter of condolence. The Royal visit by deputy. Congratulations of the British Agent. Accident to the favourite Page. The khirgar. Attempt upon the life of the Amîr. An earthquake. Afghan appreciation of pictures and jokes. Generosity of the Amîr. The first winter Durbar. The Royal costume. The Amîr’s question: the Parable. The dining-room. The guests. The breakfast. The press of State business. Amîr’s thoughtful kindness. Visit to the Commander-in-Chief. The ride to the Hospital. Adventure with the “fool horse.” Hospital patients in winter. “Two much and three much.”