Chapter XXIV: First Visit to America in Search of New Birds

Audubon settles for a time in Camden—Paints in a fisherman's
cottage by the sea—With the lumbermen in the Great Pine
Woods—Work done—Visits his sons—Joins his wife at St.
Francisville—Record of journey south—Life at "Beechgrove"—Mrs.
Audubon retires from teaching—Their plans to return to
England—Meeting with President Jackson and Edward Everett.

Audubon laid his plans to visit America in 1829 with unusual care, and was fortunate in being able to entrust his publication to the competent hands of John George Children, of the British Museum. This was to be actually his third voyage to the United States, but it was the first which he made from English soil, and after he had become known as an ornithologist and animal painter. He wished to renew at least fifty of his earlier drawings and to obtain new materials of every description. Although he was naturally anxious to see his wife, from whom he had been absent for nearly three years, and his boys, the elder of whom had been left at Shippingport five years before, he felt constrained to devote to his work every moment that could be spared.

When writing to his wife of his difficulties and prospects at this period, he assured her that he would act cautiously, with all due diligence and sobriety, and continued:

Thou art quite comfortable in Louisiana, I know; therefore
wait there with a little patience. I hope the end of this year
will see me under headway sufficient to have thee with me in
comfort here, and I need not tell thee I long for thee every
hour I am absent from thee. If I fail, America will still be
my country, and thou, I will still feel, my friend. I will
return to both and forget forever the troubles and expenses
I have had; when walking together, arm in arm, we can see our
sons before us, and listen to the mellow sounding thrush, so
plentiful in our woods of magnolia.[366]

A little later in 1829 he also wrote: "I have finished the two first years of publication, the two most difficult to be encountered." At that time he fully expected that fourteen years would be required for the completion of his task, owing to the many difficulties experienced, especially in securing competent workmen, as well as the necessity of distributing the expense for the benefit of his subscribers.

When Havell had been provided with all the drawings needed for the remainder of the year 1829 and the first issue of 1830, Audubon sailed from Portsmouth on the 1st of April, 1829, in the packet ship _Columbia_, which reached New York on the opening day of May. "I chose the ship," he said, "on account of her name, and paid thirty pounds for my passage."

He paused in New York to exhibit his drawings at the Lyceum of Natural History, of which he had become a member in 1824, but soon hurried to Philadelphia, and finally settled down for work at Camden, in New Jersey, later known to fame as the home of "the good gray poet." There, at a boarding house kept by a Mr. Armstrong, he remained three weeks, from about May 23 to June 13, hunting and painting every day. From Camden he went to Great Egg Harbor, then a famous resort of both land and water birds in great variety, and for three weeks more he lived and worked in a fisherman's cabin by the sea. It is interesting to recall that Alexander Wilson, in company with George Ord, had spent a month at this point in the spring of 1813.

The following letter[367] from Swainson was probably the one to which Audubon replied from New Jersey on September 14:

_William Swainson to Audubon_

MY DEAR MR. AUDUBON

I welcomed the news of your arrival in America yesterday,
and as I am making up a packet for Liverpool today, I seize
the opportunity of wishing you joy and happiness in the new
world. I am surprised and disappointed as not receiving one
line from Ward it is at the best negligent, and somewhat
ungrateful. Hope you have begun your studies among the birds
on a better plan than formerly, that is, in preserving the
skins of every one on which there is the least doubt whether
the bird is young or old, particularly the former. If you are
to give scientific descriptions and definitions of the species
this precaution is absolutely necessary. What your Americans
do with their money I know not, Mr. Lea tells me he cannot
procure one purchaser for my new Illustrations: _here_ it is
now going on very well.

You asked me what you can do for me in America. I will tell
you. Send me a cart load of shells from the Ohio, or from any
of the _Rivers near New Orleans_. The _very smallest_, as well
as the _very_ largest—_all sizes_. I have been long expecting
those which your son promised you for me near twelve months
ago! _but I have heard nothing of them_! you may spend a few
dollars for me and send people to fish the shells at the dry
season, when the waters are _low_, that is the best time.

Things go on here much as usual, but I have not been in London
since Xmas. The first volume, containing the Quadrupeds, of
Dr. Richardson's work, is out. I am now busy in preparing the
second, which contains the Birds. Let me particularly direct
your attention to the manners of the Cedar Bird, Ampelis
Americana. I suspect it feeds much on Insects in default of
fruit, but what is desirable, is to know _the way_ in which
it captures Insects, whether as a flycatcher i.e. by seizing
them on the wing, or like the Gold crest—by picking them up
among the branches or leaves. I am now in close correspondance
with Charles Bonaparte, & a most valuble correspondant he is.

Mrs. Swainson is just recovering from her confinement after
giving me another little son I am happy today they are both
going on well.

Wilson I believe mentions _two_ birds very like the Red eyed
Flycatcher, this is a point deserving your attention, but
the _manners_ of these birds are much more important. I feel
convinced there are several species of my Genus _Ammodramus_
shore finch, in the So. States, they all have narrow pointed
tails, like the seasidefinch of Wilson. I further suspect
there is more than one species confounded with the Towee
Buntling.

I hope soon again to hear more fully from you, and of your
ornithological acquisitions. The dear little ones are quite
well.

Yours very sincerely,

WM. SWAINSON

THE GREEN _26 June 1829_.

MR. JOHN J. AUDUBON
care of
Mess. THOMAS E. WALKER & CO.
Merchants.
New York [Philadelphia]

On the 4th of July Audubon returned to Philadelphia and prepared for a longer sojourn in the Great Pine Forest, or Great Pine Swamp, as it was sometimes called, in Northumberland County, Pennsylvania. In this letter to his son we shall find an account of his plans and accomplishments:

_Audubon to his son, Victor_

PHILADELPHIA, _July 5 th., 1829_.

MY DEAR VICTOR:—

I have been in America two months this day, and not a word
from you have I had in answer to my several letters, dated
New York, and at this place. I am also without answer from
your Mama, but do not feel so surprised as I know that about 2
months is the time necessary to have a return from Louisiana.

I have come to take your Mama over to England, if her wish
inclines her to do so, and have wrote fully to her, giving
her all the particulars respecting my situation that I thought
could possibly be trusted to a letter.

I have also come to America to redraw some of my earliest
productions, and am now closely engaged at this. I remained
near this city for 3 weeks, and since have spent 3 more at
Great Egg Harbour, from which place I returned yesterday. I
have already 13 drawings by me. I have letters from London, up
to 30 th. April, when all my business was going on well with
an increase of 4 subscribers. I have no news to transmit; on
the contrary, I was in hopes that ere this I should have had
at least one long letter from you. I beg you will write me
when you last heard from your Mama. Direct your letter to the
care of Messrs Thos. E. Walker, & Co, merchants here, who know
all my movements, and will see anything forwarded to wherever
I may choose to go to.

I hope your uncle Berthoud & family are all well; present them
my best regards, and to all others who may feel interested in
my welfare, and believe me

your affectionate father,

JOHN J. AUDUBON.

I have bought a good gold time-keeper, intended for you,
and a copy bound, of my work, and wish to know how it can be
forwarded. God bless you.

After outfitting himself in Philadelphia, Audubon proceeded to Mauch Chunk; his provisions for this journey to the forest consisted of a "wooden box containing a small stock of linin, drawing-paper, my journal, colors and pencils, together with twenty pounds of shot, several flints, a due quantum of cash, my gun 'Tear Jacket,' and a heart as true to nature as ever." From Mauch Chunk he traveled fifteen miles into the heart of the wooded hills, and was received into the family of Jedediah Irish, lumberman and philosopher, whose praise was celebrated in a later "Episode."[368] "What pleasure," said the naturalist, "I had in listening to him, as he read his favourite poems of Burns, while my pencil was occupied in smoothing and softening the drawing of the bird before me. Was this not enough to recall to my mind the early impressions that had been made upon it by the description of the golden age, which I here found realized?"

During his stay in the forest Audubon paid particular attention to the smaller land birds, such as finches, warblers and flycatchers, and many of the original drawings which were made in the summer of 1829 still bear his penciled designations of time and place[369]. About ten weeks[370] were spent in the woods, from late July until the 10th of October, when the naturalist returned to Philadelphia and settled again for a time in Camden. At this period he was enjoying the best of health and spirits, and he worked during the entire season under the highest pressure of which he was capable. At Camden, October 11, 1829, he wrote:

I am at work, and have done much, but I wish I had eight pairs
of hands, and another body to shoot the specimens, still I am
delighted at what I have accumulated in drawings this season.
Forty-two drawings in four months, eleven large, eleven middle
size, and twenty-two small, comprising ninety-five birds, from
Eagles downwards, with plants, nests, flowers, and sixty kinds
of eggs.[371] I live alone, see scarcely any one, besides
those belonging to the house where I lodge. I rise long before
day, and work till night-fall, when I take a walk, and to bed.

At about the middle of October Audubon set out to join his family in the South. Crossing the mountains by mail-coach to Pittsburgh, where he met his former partner in business, Thomas Pears (see p. 254), he descended once more his favorite river, the Ohio. It was no longer necessary to rough it on a flatboat or to sleep on a steamer's deck; it was to be "poor Audubon" no longer. To be sure, he was not rich, but he had made his way and his mark, and the attention which he now began to receive when traveling in his adopted land must have gratified his heart. He paused at Louisville to visit his two boys, the elder of whom, Victor, was then a clerk in the office of his uncle, William G. Bakewell, while John was with another uncle, Nicholas A. Berthoud. Hastening on he reached Bayou Sara on November 17, where he finally joined his wife, who was living at the home of William Garrett Johnson, in West Feliciana Parish, near Wakefield. Some account of this journey is given in the following letter,[372] written on the eighteenth to Dr. Richard Harlan; in the postscript Audubon gives the first reference to a new hawk which he proposed to name after his friend, and which has given no little trouble to ornithologists ever since:[373]

_Audubon to Dr. Richard Harlan_

[Superscribed] RICHD HARLAN Esqr. M. D. &c &c &c
Philadelphia Pensa

ST FRANCISVILLE LOUISIANA _Novembr 18th
1829_—

MY DEAR FRIEND.—

You will see by the data of this the rapidity with which I
have crossed _two thirds_ of the United States. I had the
happiness of pressing my beloved wife to my breast Yesterday
morning; saw my two sons at Louisville and all is well.—from
Philadelphia to Pittsburgh I found the Roads, the Coaches,
horses Drivers and Inns all much improved and yet needing
a great deal to make the traveller _quite comfortable_—The
slownesse of the stages is yet a great bore to a man in a
hurry—I remained part of a day at Pittsburgh where of course I
paid my respects to the Museum! I was glad to see the germ of
one—it is conducted by a very young man named Lambdin—I made
an arrangement with him [place of seal—paper gone] &c. &c.
&c. at Cincinnati I also visited the Museum [paper gone] it
scarsely improves since my last view of it, except indeed by
wax figures and such other shows as are best suitable to make
money and the least so to improve the mind.—I could not see
D [illegible] my time was very limited.—The Ohio was in good
order for Navigation and I reached Louisville distant from
you about 1,000 Miles in one week.==as you spoke of travelling
westwardly I give you here an a/c of the Fare.—to Pittsburgh
all included 21$.—to Louisville 12$.—and 25$ more to Bayou
Sarah where I Landed. 30$ is the price from Louisville to N.
Orleans.==our Steam Boats are commodious and go well—but my
Dear Friend the most extraordinary change has taken place
in appearance as I have proceeded.—The foliage had nearly
left the Trees in Pensylvania, the Swallows had long since
disapeared severe frost indeed had rendered Nature gloomy
and uninteresting—Judge of the contrast: I am now surrounded
by _Green Trees_ and Swallows gambole around the house as in
Pensylvania during June & July==The mock bird is heard to sing
and during a Walk with my Wife yesterday I collected some 20
or 30 Insects==that is not all, a friend of mine here _says_
that he has discovered 2 or 3 _New Birds_!!!—new Birds are new
birds our days, and I shall endeavour to shew you the Facts
Simile when again I shall have the pleasure of shaking your
hand—

although so lately arrived, I have established the fact that
Mrs A. and myself will be on our way towards "Old England"
by the 15th of Jan.y. we will ascend the Mississipi and
after resting ourselves at Louisville with our sons and other
relatives about one month and then proceed with the Rapidity
on the Wild Pigeon should God grant our wishes!—

have you seen or heard any thing of Ward?—have you the little
sketch of Dear?==we had a passenger on Board the Huntress
named _Potts_ from your City who knows you well as lively
young Gentleman; has a Brother (a Clergyman) established and
married at Natchez.—

I will begin Drawing next week having much scratching with the
Pen to perform this one, and I am also desirous to make [paper
gone] Large Shipment of aborigines both animal and vegetal as
soon as possible.—Turkeys, Aligators, Oppossums, Paroekett,
and plants, as Bignonias &c &c &c. will be removed to
the Zoological Gardens of London, from the Natural ones of
this Magnificent Louisiana!—meantimes I will not forget _my
Friends in Phila._ no I would rather forgive all, to all
my Ennemies there.—assure Dr. Hammersley that Ivory Billed
and Peleated Woodpeckers will be skinned, and who knows but
I may find something more for him.—I will give free leave to
Dr. Pickering to chuse amongst the Insects and who knows but
I may find something new for him. remember me most kindly to
both, nay not in the common manner of saying "Mr Audubon begs
to be remembered" no not [at] all. This way Mr A remembers
_you_ and _you_ and _I_ will remember _you_ and _you_ and _I_
always!!—

May I also beg to be remembered in humble words to a fine pair
of Eyes; divided, not by the Allegany Mountains; but by a nose
evidently imported from far _East_, to a placid forehead, to
a mouth speaking happiness to——[dash nearly across page.]

Should you see Friend Sully remember me to him also—and should
you see George Ord Esqr. _Fellow_ of all the Societies
_Imaginable_ present him my most humble——[dash line more than
across the page.]

Should you see that good woman where I boarded at Camd'den
tell her that I am well and thankful to her for her attentions
to me.—

I cannot hope the pleasure of an answer from you here but you
may do so, and I say pray do so, directed to the care of N.
Berthoud Esqr Louisville Kentucky.—by the bye my sons are
taller than me, the eldest one so much altered that I did not
know him at first sight, and yet I have _Eyes_—

God bless You, Your Friend

JOHN J. AUDUBON.

[The following is written across the first page:]

I reopened my letter to say that I have Just _now_ killed a
Large _New Falcon yes positively a new Species of Hawk almost
black about_ 25 Inches Long and 4 feet broad tail square Eye
yellowish White, Legs and Feet bare short & strong.——I will
skin it!!!—

remember me to Lehman——

What I have said about the Hawk to You must be _Lawful_ to
_Academicians_ and you will please announce _Falco Harlanii_
by

JOHN J. AUDUBON
_F. L. S. L._

The following extracts are from a letter[374] written by Swainson, January 30, 1830, and sent to Havell in London to be readdressed:

_William Swainson to Audubon_

I know not in what part of the Wilds of America you may now
be wandering, but I hope you are fully intent upon your great
object, and that you are not only making drawings, and taking
notes, _but preserving Skins_, of all your little favorites.
Don't forget the _Shrikes_, of which I have strong suspicions
there are 2 or 3 species mixed up with the name of Loggerhead.
Should you be in the land of the _Scarlet Ibis_, do pray
procure a dozen or two of the best skins, they are the most
magnificent birds of No. America, and are said to be common
towards New Orleans.

You will learn frm the Newspapers how uncommonly severe is
our winter the snow has now been upon the ground five weeks
and it is still falling. I manage, however, to walk out every
day, and thus have acquired better health than I have enjoyed
for many years.

Previous to your embarking to England, which I hope you will
do very early in the spring you must do me one favor. Bring
me two Grey Squirrels alive, and a cage full of little birds,
either the painted or non-Pareil finch the Blue finch, or the
Virginian Nightingale, as they are called, 3 or 4 of each to
guard against casualties by death on the voyage. I do not care
one farthing whether they sing or not, so that I presume they
may be got for a mere trifle. The Squirrels would delight the
little people beyond measure, and would prove a never-failing
source of amusement to them. I believe you have other kinds
than the _grey_, so that any will do. If you cannot get them
pray supply their place by two Parrots of America.

We continue pretty well at the Green. Seldom go to town,
but I find people begin to discover the true character of V
[igors]. and many that were formerly his friends now speak
very differently of him. His father having died the property
has come to him. He has now taken a fine house in the Regents
park, and holds _conversaziones_ (in humble imitation of those
of the President of the Royal Society) every Sunday evening
_during the season_!! all this is very grand, and he appears
to have abandoned writing any more papers on ornithology,
since I have begun to point out his errors.

Ward wrote to me since my last, he is a poor weak fellow, with
a good natural disposition, but so little to be depended upon,
that he is turned round by every feather, after inserting that
he could not go on "in my service" as he called it, under
_ten dollars_ a week, he now says he should be most happy
to receive _four_. He says not a word of his marriage, which
proves his wish to decive one. I have done with him.... I hope
you have got me _lots of River shells_.

About the beginning of the year 1827 Mrs. Audubon gave up
her "Beechwoods" school, and thereafter took a position as
governess in the home of Mr. William Garrett Johnson, whose
plantation, called "Beechgrove," was situated in the same
parish. An anonymous writer thus referred to this house in
1851.[375]

In the hospitable mansion of W. G. J——, in the parish of West
Feliciana, if one will look into the parlor, they will see
over the piano a cabinet sized portrait, remarkable for a
bright eye and intellectual look. The style of it is free, and
there is an individuality about the whole that gives assurance
of a strong likeness. Opposite hangs a proof impression of the
bird of Washington, a tribute of a grateful heart to an old
friend. The first is a portrait of Audubon painted by himself;
the other is one of the first [of his] engravings that ever
reached the United States.

There Audubon spent nearly two months at the close of 1829, and followed his usual occupations of hunting and drawing, while his wife prepared for their contemplated journey to Europe. He is said to have drawn at this time the "Black Vulture attacking a herd of Deer," several large hawks, squirrels, and heads of deer which were never finished.

Although Audubon's business affairs in England had been left in charge of his trustworthy friend, John G. Children, his engraver, Havell, had become alarmed at the loss of subscribers and the failure of certain of their agents, and particularly M. Pitois of Paris,[376] to render due returns. Havell, as it proved, was unduly disturbed, but his gloomy accounts tended to hasten the naturalist's departure, a circumstance that was later deplored. These matters are clearly reflected in the following letter written from the Johnson home in Louisiana when the Audubons were preparing to leave it; particularly interesting are the included statements through which it was hoped that a competent successor might be secured for the duties of the position which Mrs. Audubon had so ably filled:

_Audubon to Robert Havell_

BEECH GROVE, LOUISIANA
_Decr 16th 1829_

MY DEAR MR. HAVELL.—

I received yesterday from New York your letter of the 29th.
Sept. which must have reached Philadelphia 3 days after my
departure for home==

I am sorry that Bartley should have made you suffer a
moment by sending you the intelligence of the failure of the
several subscribers you mention in your favor—it cannot be
helped—there is none of your fault and _I_ must repair these
matters when I reach England again==

I am considerably more sorry and much vexed that Sowler should
have failed in his _written_ promise to accept your Dfts.—even
in a case of the diminution of subscribers he could certainly
have sent you a progressional amount—I am now _almost_ sure
that Pitois has failed or acted the Rogue==

We are making all preparations in our power to leave Louisiana
on the 5 or 10th. of Jan.y and we will proceed as fast as
Steam Boats, Coaches and the weather will admit of and we will
sail for England from New York with all possible dispatch.
I have made a shipment of Forest trees to England that I
hope will turn to good account as they are to be presents to
Public Institutions &c and that I think it necessary to be
_remembered myself_.—

We are both well—our sons are at Louisville, Kentucky where
we will see them about the 20th. of next month.—I sent you
in my letter a proposal for your sister and should you not
have received it I send it you again here in Mrs A.'s. hand
writing.—_I would advise your sister to come_ if the _money_
is an object.—I think that besides she will be comfortable
with the familly Johnson—if she thinks fit to wait untill we
see her, we can tell her all about it.==

I have received only one letter from friend Children during
all this absence against my very many—I hope the insects I
sent him by the Annibal have reached safely.—have no news to
give you—Keep up a good heart—we will be in London as soon
as possible.—I have not had a letter from Miss Hudson for a
long time—I hope her mother & her are well—Remember me kindly
to your Dear Wife and Little ones—Mrs Audubon joins me in all
good wishes—If you see Parker my remembrances to him==I will
carry with me some Drawings that I know will make the _graver_
and the _Acid_ Grin again.—

Believe me your friend—

JOHN J. AUDUBON.

When you present my sincere regards to friend Swanson
[Swainson] tell him that I have had only one letter from him
and that I am now quite unable to say where Mr Ward is==I
had a letter from Henry Havell[377] the other day merely
acknowledging the money I have paid him—he was in New York,
I hope quite well—

[Enclosure]

A friend of ours here named Wm. Garrett Johnson (a cotton
planter) a gentleman who resides in a perfectly healthy and
agreeable part of the country, desires that I should write
to England to procure for him a Governess, one who can teach
music, drawing and the usual branches of education to young
Ladies. Mr. Johnson will pay the sum of one thousand dollars
per annum, board, lodging &c, also and considered in all
respects as a member of the family, to any lady who will
undertake occupation (the sum is about 230£) the governess
will have to instruct ten or twelve young persons of various
ages, and may make the arrangement for five years if desirous
of it. I have thought this would suit your sister precisely,
and for my part knowing the family Johnson as I do I should
think it an excellent thing for her. if not I will look for
some one when I am in England, Sailing from England direct for
New Orleans, steam Boats reach the place of Mr Johnson in two
days.

Duplicate.

I, Wm. Garrett Johnson do authorize my friend J. J. Audubon
to make the above proposition and do by these present obligate
myself to comply with them punctually and particularly.

WM. GARRETT JOHNSON.

[Addressed]

MR ROBT HAVELL JUR
Engraver
79 Newman Street
Oxford Street
_London_
England

"On January 1, 1830," said the naturalist, "we started for New Orleans, taking with us the only three servants yet belonging to us, namely, Cecilia, and her two sons, Reuben and Lewis. We stayed a few days at our friend Mr. Braud's, with whom we left our servants, and on the seventh of January took passage on the splendid steamer _Philadelphia_ for Louisville, paying sixty dollars fare."[378] After a long visit with their sons, on the seventh of March they ascended the Ohio to Cincinnati, and at Wheeling took the mail-coach to Washington. At the national capital Audubon met the President, Andrew Jackson, and was befriended by Edward Everett, at that time a leader in the House of Representatives. "Congress," said the naturalist, "was then in session, and I exhibited my drawings to the House of Representatives, and received their subscription as a body." He also recorded that he obtained three subscribers in Baltimore, and left for Philadelphia, where they remained a week. The following note, which Edward Everett gave Audubon for New York, is particularly interesting, since it expressly states that at that time the ornithologist had not received a single subscriber in the United States:

_Edward Everett to Dr. Wainwright_

WASHINGTON _18 March 1830_

MY DEAR SIR,

Allow me to introduce to your acquaintance, the bearer of this
letter, Mr. Audubon of Louisiana. His drawings of American
Birds, of which he will show you some, will I am sure command
your approbation, as they have the applause of Europe.—I
am sorry to say, that he has not yet procured a single
subscriber, in the United States of America. Will not one
of your Institutions in New York—or your wealthy and liberal
individuals—take a copy? I pray you endeavor to procure him
at least one subscriber, in New York.—

Yours with great regard

E. EVERETT.

REV DR WAINWRIGHT

Audubon had evidently reconsidered his expressed intention of presenting a copy[379] to Congress, and to Edward Everett belongs the credit of subscribing to _The Birds of America_ in behalf of the Congressional Library. At about this time also he obtained another subscriber at Washington, in the person of Baron Krudener, the Russian envoy, but later experienced difficulty in collecting his dues.[380]