Chapter VI: Part 6

Southward from Santa Cruz we pass almost at once the northernmost
of the long chain of the New Hebrides, discovered towards the
end of the eighteenth century, almost simultaneously, by our
own Captain Cook and by the great French admiral Bougainville.
Northernmost of all, in the sphere of joint Anglo-French
influence, we pass the Torres and Banks Islands, great centres of
the famous Melanesian mission. Next we come to Espiritu Santo, or
Santo for short, at the northern end of which is the great Bay
of St. Philip and St. James, within which, four centuries ago,
Quiros built a town--a town which lasted but a few months. He
rejoiced greatly because he thought that in that newly discovered
land he had reached the beginning of the great Southern Continent
which was supposed to extend thence to the Antarctic regions.

Here and there round Santo there are a few mission stations,
and a few fairly prosperous plantations, some English and some
French; but the natives in the interior are still very wild
and occasionally raid the European settlements. Here we see a
vast crowd of natives celebrating a feast. Now it is a peaceful 55
ceremony: it was far different in the past.

Next, still steaming southward, we pass between two rows of
islands, until, about where the two rows join, we come to the
Island of Efate, with its growing town of Vila, the centre of
Anglo-French administration. Here is the seat of the Joint Court,
and many buildings of almost European type have recently been
erected for its use.

Still further south the New Hebrides reach, now in a single line,
almost down to the Loyalty Islands and New Caledonia. These last
two places are, however, purely French possessions, and we may
pass them by.

From Vila the Governor in his warship would probably return
eastward to Fiji. We may leave him at Vila and take either the
French or the British steamer, which calls there once a month,
and so make our way direct to Sydney. But before leaving the
subject of the New Hebrides we may note that the islands of this
group are largely volcanic, and the people are not unlike those
of the Solomons, though perhaps rather less savage. Here we have
a picture showing their former method of receiving visitors. 56
It was from these two groups that the brown labour for the
Queensland plantations was largely recruited in times past. The
New Hebrides are fertile, though not healthy for Europeans; and
when they have been reduced to some order by white administration
they may develop a trade with Australia in various vegetable
products; since they are not limited to the coconut as are so
many of the coral atolls. The picture before us with its coral 57
reefs, its forest and its background of volcanic hills, gives a
very good idea of the scenery of these islands.

We have now completed the circuit of our chief possessions in the
Western Pacific. There still remain a few detached islands and
groups on its eastern borders which are under the jurisdiction of
the High Commissioner. Of these only two are of much interest.

Fanning Island lies almost in mid-Pacific, and halfway along
the usual route from Sydney to Vancouver. A steamer from Sydney
travels 1700 miles to its first stop at Suva; then 1900 on to
Fanning Island; thence 3400 to Vancouver, the starting place
of the Canadian-Pacific route to Europe. Fanning Island is in
consequence the mid-Pacific station of the Pacific cable. The
island and its near neighbour, Washington Island, are small coral
islands with lagoons, on which coconuts have long been profitably
cultivated. Both also have valuable deposits of phosphates, due
to the age-long deposit of the droppings of countless seabirds
on the decomposing coral. These phosphates, as well as the
very abundant coconuts, are already exported, and their value
is likely to increase considerably before long. Moreover, the
probability that Fanning Island may be made into a shelter and
repairing station for vessels crossing the Pacific adds largely
to its value as an asset of the Empire. Here are two pictures of 58
the island, typical of the kind of coral atoll which is found 59
isolated in the Pacific, instead of being, as are most of the
others which we have seen, a member of a group.

Far away to the south-east, almost on the Tropic, and halfway 60
to South America, lies the lonely Pitcairn Island, to which a
few other scattered islets, British possessions, are attached.
Pitcairn has a population of about a hundred and fifty souls,
descendants of the mutineers of the _Bounty_, who settled here
with their native wives in 1789. The present occupants represent
those who returned after the experiment of removing to Norfolk
Island in 1856. They had found themselves overcrowded, since
Pitcairn is a tiny island only two miles long by three-quarters
wide, rocky and volcanic, though fertile. The island is of great
interest from the point of view of the history of the Pacific,
since there are remains on it of stone monuments, weapons, and
images which prove that even in this distant corner of the ocean
some early people must have settled long before the Polynesians.
In fact, there are traces of such settlements all over the 61
Pacific, which suggest that the Polynesians themselves are merely
modern colonists, occupying the homes of an earlier and perhaps
more civilised race.

List of Slides

[_The titles printed in heavy type are those of the Maps and Illustrations appearing in the book._]

LECTURE I

_Slide No._

1. Chart of Tasman’s Voyage, 1642.
2. Off Chatham Island, West Australia.
3. Coast Scene, West Australia.
=4. Map of Hollandia Nova; Pieter Goos.=
=5. Map of New Holland; R. de Vagondy.=
6. Statue of Captain Cook.
7. The _Endeavour_ off New Zealand.
8. Chart of Cook’s Voyage, 1769-70.
9. A Wallaby.
10. Rat Kangaroo.
11. Phalanger.
=12. Native Bear.=
13. Native Bear and Child.
14. Tasmanian Devil.
15. Tasmanian Wolf.
16. Duck-billed Platypus.
17. Dingo.
18. Lyre Bird.
=19. Emu.=
20. Gum-Tree Blossom.
21. Laughing Jackasses.
22. Black Swan.
23. Palms at Brisbane.
24. Palm Scrub, near Cairns.
25. Tropical Bush, Lake Eachem.
=26. Gum Trees.=
27. Mulga Scrub.
28. Salt Bush.
29. Spinifex.
30. A Desert Scene, West Australia.
31. A Desert Scene, Central Australia.
32. Watercourse, in Dry Season.
33. Grass Trees.
34. Grass Trees and Red Gums.
35. Grass Trees.
36. Aboriginal Rock Shelter.
=37. Natives fishing.=
38. Armed Natives, at a Pool.
39. Throwing the Boomerang.
40. Native climbing a Tree.
41. Anthony Anderson.
42. Native Paintings.
43. Native Paintings.
44. Corroboree.
45. Native Reserve, Victoria.
46. Group of Natives, Queensland.
47. A Native Woman, Queensland.
48. Orographical Map of Australia.
49. New Zealand, Bush Scene.
50. Kiwi.
51. Takahe.
52. Skeleton of Moa.
53. Moa restored.
54. Tuatara.

LECTURE II

1. The Heads, Port Jackson.
2. Middle Harbour, Port Jackson.
3. Sailing Ships entering Port Jackson.
4. Circular Quay, Sydney.
5. Darling Harbour.
=6. Chart of Port Jackson.=
7. Warships in Farm Cove.
8. View over Farm Cove.
9. Old Sydney.
10. George Street, Sydney.
11. Martin Place, Sydney.
=12. Orographical Map of New South Wales.=
13. Map of Railways and Sydney Coal Field.
14. Hetton Colliery, Newcastle.
15. Newcastle Harbour.
16. Coal Cliff Colliery.
17. A Waterfall in the Blue Mountains.
=18. Govett’s Leap, Blue Mountains.=
19. Limestone Arch, Jenolan.
20. Limestone Gorge, Jenolan.
21. The Broken Column, Jenolan Caves.
22. Lithgow.
23. A Farm in the Tamworth Country.
24. Reapers at Work, Tamworth.
25. Rainfall Map of New South Wales.
26. Map of Eastern United States on Eastern Australia.
27. Carting Wool.
28. Sheep at Shearing Shed.
29. Wool Show-room, Sydney.
30. A Flock of Shorn Sheep.
31. A Lagoon on the Murrumbidgee.
=32. The Murray in Flood.=
33. Bridge over the Murray.
34. Crossing a Creek, Murray District.
35. Steamer on the Murray.
36. A Broken Hill Mine.
37. A Camel Team, Broken Hill.
38. Reservoir, Broken Hill.
39. The Snowy River.
40. A Tributary of the Snowy River.
41. Motoring to Kosciusko.
42. Hotel at Kosciusko.
43. The Summit of Kosciusko, before Sunset.
44. Surveying the Site at Yass.
45. Surveyors’ Camp, Yass.
=46. Yass Canberra Site.=
47. A Dairy Farm on the Coast.
48. Blackbutt Tree.
49. A Timber Team.
50. Map of Papua.
51. Papuan Natives.
52. Papuan Girl.
53. A Native Town.
54. Native Houses.
55. A Village Constable, Papua.
56. Armed Constabulary, Papua.
57. A Bush Track.
58. Carriers crossing a Stream.
59. A Native Bridge.
60. Natives of the Main Range.
61. A European House, Port Moresby.
62. Steamer at Port Moresby.

LECTURE III

1. Wallangarra Station.
=2. Orographical Map of Queensland.=
=3. Rainfall Map of Queensland.=
4. Victoria Bridge, Brisbane.
5. South Brisbane.
6. The River, near Brisbane.
7. Executive Buildings, Brisbane.
8. Parliament Houses, Brisbane.
9. Queen Street, Brisbane.
=10. Natural Grass, Darling Downs.=
11. Sheep on Downs, near Warwick.
12. A Rancher’s Station, Roma.
13. Toowoomba.
=14. Gladstone.=
15. Harbour and Jetty, Gladstone.
16. Bridge on Fitzroy River.
17. Loading Frozen Meat.
18. Railway Map of Queensland.
19. A Settler’s Camp, Queensland.
20. A New Homestead.
21. Cattle on Ringbarked Country.
22. Queensland Karri Pine.
23. Trainload of Sleepers.
=24. Townsville Harbour.=
25. Jetty at Townsville.
26. Landing Cattle at Bowen.
27. Cattle, Central Queensland.
28. Cattle on Coast Farm.
29. Clearing Palm-scrub.
30. Irrigated Sugar-cane.
31. Cutting Sugar-cane.
32. Trainload of Sugar-cane.
33. Banana Plantation.
34. Shipping Bananas, Johnston River.
35. Coffee Plantation, Kuranda.
36. Pruning a Coffee Bush.
37. Java Coffee Bush.
38. Avenue of Palms, Kamerunga.
39. Rubber Plantation.
40. Tapping Rubber.
41. African Rubber Tree.
42. Sisal Hemp.
43. Picking Cotton.
44. A Street in Cairns.
45. Bellenden Ker Range.
=46. Above the Barron Falls.=
47. Barron Falls.
48. Barron Falls.
49. On the Cairns Railway.
50. Atherton.
51. A Chinese Joss House.
52. Fig Trees, Atherton.
53. A Tropical Garden, North Queensland.
54. Mount Morgan.
55. Crushing the Ore, Mount Morgan.
56. Herberton, a Tin Township.
57. A Copper Mine, Queensland.
58. Artesian Bore.
59. Chart of part of the Barrier Reef.
60. View on the Barrier Reef.
61. Bêche de Mer.

LECTURE IV

1. Orographical Map of Victoria.
2. A Coast Lagoon, Victoria.
=3. Chart of Port Phillip.=
4. Collins Street, Melbourne.
5. Bourke Street, Melbourne.
6. Treasury Offices, Melbourne.
7. Interior of Mount Franklin.
8. In the Victorian Valley.
9. String of Draught Horses.
10. Horses in Park.
11. A Race Meeting.
12. Railway Map of Victoria.
=13. On the Banks of the Yarra.=
14. Bridge over the Yarra.
15. Camp of Boy Scouts.
16. A Boy Scout.
17. Healesville.
18. Gum Logs.
19. House at Black’s Spur.
20. Woods near Mount Macedon.
21. Sturt Street, Ballarat.
22. Sturt Street, Ballarat.
23. Botanical Gardens, Ballarat.
24. Sinking a Shaft for Gold.
=25. Washing Gold Dust.=
26. Gold Mine, Bendigo.
27. An Outcrop of Quartz.
28. Rainfall Map of Victoria.
29. Rolling down Mallee Scrub.
30. Impounding a Stream.
31. Excavation of a Reservoir.
32. An Irrigation Channel.
33. A Pumping Station.
34. Chart of Banks Strait.
35. The Tamar at Launceston.
36. View of Launceston.
=37. King’s Bridge, Launceston.=
38. Cataract Gorge, Launceston.
39. Power Station, Cataract Gorge.
40. Apple Orchards, on the Tamar.
=41. Orographical Map of Tasmania.=
42. Railway Map of Tasmania.
43. Team of Oxen, Scottsdale.
44. Sheep on the Road, Scottsdale.
45. The Forest, from the Train, Western Tasmania.
46. A River Gorge, Western Tasmania.
47. View near Zeehan.
48. Main Street, Zeehan.
49. A Smeltery, Zeehan.
50. Strahan Bay.
51. Queenstown.
52. Gormanston.
53. The Open Cut, Mount Lyell Mines.
54. Mount Lyell Smelteries.
55. View of Queenstown.
56. View of Hobart.
57. Hobart from the Water.
58. Fern-Tree Gully, Hobart.
59. Government House, Hobart.
60. Mount Wellington.
61. Orchards, Franklin.
=62. Scaffolding a Tree.=
63. Loading Logs.
64. A Saw Mill, Geeveston.
65. Timber on the Wharf, Geeveston.

LECTURE V

1. Wharf at Port Adelaide.
2. King William Street, Adelaide.
3. The Torrens River.
4. City Bridge, Adelaide.
5. A Street in Adelaide.
6. The Post Office, Adelaide.
7. Judge’s Garden, Adelaide.
=8. Adelaide, looking south-east.=
=9. Orographical Map of South Australia.=
10. Mount Gambier Lakes.
11. A Waterfall, Mount Lofty.
12. Orchards and Vineyards, Adelaide.
13. An Orange Tree.
14. Drying Raisins.
15. Loading a Steamer on the Murray.
16. A Salt Lake, Yorke Peninsula.
17. Railway Map of South Australia.
18. An Out-Station, South Australia.
19. Camel Team, in the far North.
20. Rainfall Map of South Australia.
21. Copper Mines, Wallaroo.
22. Copper Mines, Moonta.
23. Wharf, Port Pirie.
24. Smelting Works, Port Pirie.
25. Map of Desert Journeys.
26. Orographical Map of Western Australia.
27. Chart of the Swan River.
28. Fremantle.
29. On the Swan River.
30. Perth, from King’s Park.
31. St. George’s Terrace, Perth.
32. Garden with Lemon Trees, Perth.
33. The Countryside, near Perth.
34. A Black Gin.
35. View of York.
36. A Flour Mill, York.
37. Church on the River, York.
38. The King’s Head, York.
=39. Rainfall Map of Western Australia.=
40. Jarrah Trees.
42. Red Gums and Chalk Hills.
43. Everlasting Flowers.
44. View of Albany.
45. Chart of King George’s Sound.
46. Kalgoorlie.
47. A Pool, in Rainy Season.
48. Lake Violet, after Rain.
49. Salt Flats, Kalgoorlie.
=50. Mundaring Weir.=
51. Beginning of Mining.
52. Boring for Alluvial Gold.
53. Gold Workings, burrowing.
=54. Alluvial Mining, sluicing.=
55. Fraser’s Gold Mine.
56. Cyanide Vats.
57. An Open Cut.
58. A Quartz Reef.
59. Granite Rocks and Tank.
=60. Limestone Cliffs, in the Great Bight.=
61. Springs, in the Great Bight.

LECTURE VI

1. The Bluff, Invercargill.
2. Dee Street, Invercargill.
=3. Orographical Map of South Island.=
4. Lumsden.
5. On the Road to Manapouri.
6. The Pier, Manapouri.
7. Launch, on Manapouri.
8. Hunter Mountains.
9. Cathedral Peaks.
10. Spire Peak.
11. In the Mackinnon Pass.
12. Mount Elliott.
13. A Dry Creek, Mackinnon Pass.
14. Dawn, on the Clinton River.
15. Donald Sutherland.
16. Bowen Falls, Milford Sound.
17. Mitre Peak.
18. Two-man Beach.
=19. Entrance to Milford Sound.=
20. Map of the Sounds.
21. Sutherland Falls.
22. A Gold Dredger.
23. Map of Otago Peninsula.
=24. Dunedin.=
25. Dunedin.
26. Interior of Woollen Mill.
27. St. Clair Beach, Dunedin.
28. Port Chalmers, looking east.
29. Railway Map of South Island.
30. Burke’s Pass.
31. Suspension Bridge, Tekapo.
32. A Boundary Dog.
33. Mount Cook, from Pukaki.
34. Mount Sefton, from the Hermitage.
35. The Hermitage, under Snow.
36. Crossing the Hooker River.
37. Hooker River, in Flood.
38. The Mueller Glacier, terminal Moraine.
=39. Looking up Tasman Glacier.=
40. Head of Tasman Glacier.
41. Ice River, on Tasman Glacier.
42. Hochstetter Ice Falls.
43. Mount Cook.
44. Summit of Mount Cook.
45. Sheep in Canterbury District.
46. A Farm in the Canterbury Plains.
47. Reaping, in the Canterbury Plains.
=48. Rainfall Map of South Island.=
49. Panorama of Christchurch.
=50. The Avon, Christchurch.=
51. Private Residence, on the Avon.
52. Lyttelton.
53. Chart of Banks Peninsula.
54 Lincoln Agricultural College.
55. Lincoln College, Threshing Wheat.
56. Otira Pass, the Summit.
57. In the Otira Gorge.
58. Brunner.
59. Nelson.
60. Map of Marlborough Sounds.
61. Pelorus Sound.
62. Pelorus Jack.

LECTURE VII

1. Orographical Map of North Island.
2. Napier.
3. Approaching Wellington.
4. Chart of Wellington Harbour.
5. Wellington Harbour.
6. Wharves on Reclaimed Land, Wellington.
7. Passenger Wharf, Wellington.
8. View from Customs Tower.
9. View from Customs Tower, looking north-east.
10. The Basin Reserve.
11. Government Buildings.
=12. Old Government House.=
13. Remains of Parliamentary Buildings.
=14. Political Map of North Island.=
15. Mount Ruapehu, distant view.
16. Mount Ngauruhoe.
17. Maori Women, greeting.
18. Taupo, looking towards Tokaano.
19. The Champagne Pool.
20. Rotomahana Terraces.
21. Rotomahana Terraces.
22. Twin Geyser and Terraces.
=23. The Great Wairakei Geyser.=
24. The Geyser at Work.
25. Lake Perariri.
26. Sulphur Beds.
27. Remains of a Maori Pah.
28. Portrait of Maori Chief.
29. Maori Chief, with Staff.
30. Group of Maoris in Native Dress.
31. House of a Chief.
=32. A Chief’s Daughter, with Staff.=
33. Maori Haka.
34. A Poi Dance.
35. Maori War Canoe.
36. Grave of Maori Chief.
37. Woman smoking.
38. Children bathing.
39. Tourists round a Geyser.
40. Wairoa Geyser, playing.
41. Cooking in Steam Holes.
42. A Maori Village, Lake Rotorua.
43. Hot Lake, Rotorua.
=44. Rapids on the Waikato.=
45. On the Wanganui.
46. Rapids on the Wanganui.
47. Dairy Cattle, Taranaki.
48. Mount Egmont.
49. Rainfall Map of North Island.
50. Cutting Flax.
51. Flax in the Bale.
52. Kauri Tree.
53. Cutting down Kauri.
54. Hauling Kauri Logs.
55. Ship, loading Kauri.
56. Gum Diggers.
57. Camp of Gum Diggers.
58. Russell, Bay of Islands.
=59. Chart of Auckland.=
60. Chart of Manukau.
61. Auckland, from Devonport.
62. View of Auckland, from Mount Victoria.
63. An Extinct Volcano, Auckland.

LECTURE VIII

1. Map of Western Pacific.
2. Map of Tongatabu.
3. Nukualofa.
4. George Fatafehi and Household.
5. A Road in Tonga.
6. Launch coming out, Lifuka.
7. Native Travellers, Haapai.
8. Surf on Windward Beach.
9. Vavau Sound.
10. The Wharf, Niafu.
11. Swimming with the Mails.
12. Lau Island.
13. Fijian Canoe.
14. Canoes with Mat Sails.
15. Map of Fiji Islands.
16. One End of Ovalau.
17. Levuka Town.
18. Coast Village, Ovalau.
19. Entering Suva Harbour.
20. Panorama of Suva Harbour.
=21. Banana Boats, Suva.=
22. Street Scene, Suva.
23. Map of Viti Levu.
24. On the Navua River.
25. View on the North Side of Viti Levu.
26. Forest and Mountain, Viti Levu.
27. Hot Springs, Fiji.
28. A Presentation of Food.
29. Sugar Mill, on Rewa River.
30. Interior of Sugar Mill.
31. A Sugar Estate, Fiji.
32. Coconut Plantation.
=33. Coconut Tree, with Fruit.=
34. Natives climbing Trees.
35. Cutting Copra.
36. Men’s Meke.
37. Group of Dancers.
38. Women’s Meke.
39. Fiji Constabulary.
40. Fording a River, Viti Levu.
=41. Making Mats.=
42. Making Pottery.
43. A Fijian Village.
44. Fijian House, Old Style.
45. Interior of Chief’s House.
46. Yangona Drinking.
47. The Gate of Namosi.
48. The Town Drum, Namosi.
=49. Chart of Funafuti.=
=50. Chart of Totoya.=
51. Ocean Islanders.
52. Phosphate Deposits, Ocean Island.
53. Solomon Islands, War Dance.
54. Solomon Islands, Canoe.
55. Native Feast, New Hebrides.
56. Attack on a Missionary.
57. Coast View, New Hebrides.
58. Fanning Island.
59. Fanning Island.
60. Pitcairn Island.
61. Stone Ruins, Tonga.

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TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE

Many illustration captions included ‘Copyright.]’ and ‘[See page nn.’
in the original text. The ] and [ have been changed to ) and ( in
this etext to avoid confusion with the use of [ ] as illustration
delimiters.

Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been
corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences within
the text and consultation of external sources. All misspellings
in the text, and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained.