Chapter I: Part 1

PART FIRST
Barbers' Manual
PART SECOND
Text Book on Taxidermy

By T. J. McConnaughay

PRICE, $1.25

Copyrighted and all rights reserved by author.
Chicago, Ill., 1898.

Preface.

By way of explaining the dual character of this little book, we here indulge a few brief introductory remarks.

Part First is designed simply as a manual of instruction for barbers, and we hope it will, in a valuable measure, supply a long felt need. It will prove especially beneficial to the younger and less experienced members of our craft.

The best artisans and artists admit they owe much to the accumulated knowledge and experience of both their predecessors and their contemporaries. Indeed, to assert any claim to advanced knowledge and skill, without due acknowledgements for the help received from others would savor of an inexcusable egotism. The man who professes to be a self-made man is always notorious for worshiping his maker.

We should, of course, always put our own impress upon all our work. Our observations on the methods of others should supplement but not supplant our own originality and our own reason. A noted artist when asked how he mixed his paints to achieve such wonderful results, replied: “I mix them with brains.”

So must we use our own brains as well as the brains of others, if we would succeed in this day of rapid improvements and sharp competition.

The information given in this book is not guess work, but the result of long years of study and practice. Thirty-one years have I conducted a shop of my own. During these years every recipe here given has been thoroughly tested. We know they are all good.

Part Second is devoted to taxidermy, which for twenty-three years I have connected with my other shop work. I have preserved and sold hundreds of specimens, and this work has proven a source of much pleasure and profit, enabling me to turn many otherwise idle moments into money.

On this line I have not confined myself to taxidermic work alone, but have also connected the tanning of hides with the hair on, which I have manufactured into mats, rugs, etc.

Hence this little book, under a twofold title, practically includes three trades.

We offer it as a money saving and money making investment. The recipes and other information contained herein will enable any barber to make all his own preparations, and to manufacture them for sale. He may also connect taxidermy and tanning if it suit his pleasure and business.

Historic Sketch.

The word barber is derived from the Latin word “barba,” which means beard, and hence is applied to one whose occupation is to shave and trim beards and cut hair. The barber's craft is a very ancient one. The practice of shaving was common among the ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans; and was even mentioned by the prophet Ezekiel, chapter v, 1st verse. Among the ancient Israelites the removal of the beard by shaving or plucking was a sign of mourning. It would seem that the origin of our trade was prehistoric.

In early times barbering was conjoined with surgery, and the barber also served the public in the capacity of surgeon. In France the barber-chirurgeons, or barber-surgeons, were separated from the perruquiers, or wig-makers, and were incorporated as a distinct body in the latter part of the 17th century. In England barbers were incorporated with special privileges in 1461, and were afterwards united to the society of surgeons, but were confined to the minor operations of blood letting and drawing teeth. In 1745 an act was passed, the preamble of which declared the trade of the barber and the profession of surgery are foreign to and independent of each other.

This act practically divorced surgery from the barber's chair. However, quite recently the surgeons of the Swedish navy were also barbers for the crew. In former times, not far remote, it was customary to keep a lute or a violin for the entertainment of patrons, which made the shop a favorite resort for idle persons. In China and some other oriental countries, barbers not only shave the face, but they also shave the whole or a part of the head.

BARBER'S SIGN.

Though barbering is now entirely separated from surgery, yet a monument of their former union may be still seen in the striped pole and basin so often projecting from the front of barber shops.

The fillet, or spiral strip around the pole symbolizes the winding of a ribbon round the arm previous to letting blood, and its red color symbolizes the blood. The basin, yet sometimes seen at the base, represents a vessel prepared to catch the blood.

Barber's poles in this country are tri-colored. The white symbolizes the arm, the red represents the shed blood, while Americans have added the blue to complete our national colors.

Recipes, Formulas, Etc.

GERMAN HAIR DYE.

The process here given comprehends a double formula, and to insure satisfactory results, the directions subjoined should be carefully followed.

No. 1.

Nitrate of Silver 3 drachms Stronger Water of Ammonia ½ ounce Distilled or Rain Water ½ ounce

No 2.

Pyrogallic Acid 3 drachms Alcohol ½ ounce Distilled or Rain Water 6 ounces

DIRECTIONS.—Formula No. 1, and formula No. 2, should each be put up in a separate bottle.

In compounding, each of the first two ingredients should be combined and reduced to a solution and the water then added.

Before using these preparations the beard or hair should first be thoroughly washed and dried.

Then apply No. 1 with the fingers, and when partly dried apply No. 2 with a tooth brush and a comb, being careful to get the dye down to the skin. If convenient let the party go out into the open air for an hour. Otherwise the hair should be thoroughly dried with a fan, and washed with soap and soft water. This formula was brought from Germany by a St. Louis barber and sold to the author in 1869. Properly put up it is not only first-class, but I have never found any other preparation equal to it.

BROWN HAIR DYE.

Take four pounds of green walnut hulls. Put them in 1½ gallons soft water and boil down to three pints. Strain off through cloth until clear of sediment. To one quart of this add one quart of alcohol, and 3 ounces of glycerine. Use as other restorers, once a day until the desired shade is obtained. The hulls should be gathered in August.

QUININE HAIR TONIC AND SEA FOAM.

The strong point in favor of this preparation as a sea-foam is that it acts at the same time as a tonic for the hair.

FORMULA.

Alcohol 1 pint Glycerine ½ ounce Tincture of Cantharides ½ ounce Aqua Ammonia ½ ounce Sulphate of Quinine 30 grains Oil of Cloves 1 drachm Rock salt (or table salt) ¼ ounce Distilled or rain water 1 pint

DIRECTIONS.—When using as a sea-foam, wet the hair and rub briskly with finger ends until the foam has disappeared. Then take a towel and rub partly dry.

When using as a dandruff cure, sea-foam twice a week, dampen the hair twice a day for two weeks, after which use once a week as a sea-foam. This will keep the scalp in fine condition.

After you have tried it you will use no other.

CREAM FOR CHAPPED HANDS AND FACE.

This recipe was given me by a druggist whom I have known for years. Its reliable and competent source is a sufficient guarantee:

FORMULA.

Quince seed ¼ ounce Distilled extract witch hazel 1 pint Glycerine ¼ pint Alcohol ¼ pint Powdered Boracic Acid 160 grains Carbolic Acid 32 drops Perfume to suit.

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING.—First put quince seed in witch hazel and let stand twenty-four hours. Then strain through cheese cloth and add the other ingredients. I know this to be good for the face after shaving.

PYTHIAN CREAM.

This is another preparation for the face and hands.

FORMULA.

Gum Tragacanth (in flake) ½ ounce Glycerine 4 ounces Distilled or rain water ½ gallon

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING.—Put gum tragacanth in water and let stand till thoroughly dissolved, and strain through a cheese cloth. Then add the glycerine and a sufficient amount of Pythian bouquet to perfume. Color pink with powdered carmine. It should be about the consistency of cream. If too thick add more water. There should be a half-gallon water to the four ounces of glycerine when finished.

BAY CREAM.

The only difference between this and Pythian Cream is in the perfume. Some like the bay rum better.

DIRECTIONS.—Use the formula of the preceding and then add perfume with the genuine oil of bay.

COLD CREAM.

The only difference between this and the two preceding creams is that instead of perfume a compound of alcohol and menthol is used.

DIRECTIONS.—Use the same body as for Pythian Cream, and then add alcohol and menthol as follows:

Put 6 drachms of menthol crystals into an ounce of alcohol. When the menthol is thoroughly dissolved add this combination to ½ gallon of the cream. The presence of the menthol gives this preparation a very pleasant cooling effect. Hence it is well named. This cream may, of course, be perfumed if desirable.

Instead of these face creams, some customers will prefer the pure bay rum, while perhaps many will prefer witch hazel. These can, of course, be obtained from barber supply houses or from drug stores; the witch hazel may be improved by adding to it a good cologne. Try two parts witch hazel to one part cologne.

BAY RUM.

No. 1.

Bay Oil ½ ounce Oil of Pimento ¼ ounce Alcohol 3 pints Water 3 pints

No. 2.

Magnesium ¼ pound Oil of Bay ¼ pound

Mash them well together and put them in a filter and pour in two quarts of water. Let it filter slowly, and then add 2 quarts Alcohol.

IMITATION OF BAY RUM.

No. 3.

Oil of Bay 3 drachms Oil Pimento ½ drachm Water 1½ quarts Acetic Ether 1½ ounces Alcohol 2 quarts

Mix and let stand 3 days, then filter.

CAMPHOR ICE.

Oil of Sweet Almonds 2½ ounces White Wax 2½ ounces Spermaceti 3½ ounces Gum Camphor ¾ ounces

Mix together, melt and pour off in small salve boxes.

MENTHOL SALVE.

Mutton Tallow 1 ounce Lard 1 ounce Menthol (in crystals) 3 drachms

Melt together and pour off in salve boxes.

Both the Camphor Ice and the Menthol salve are good for tender faces.

SILVER GLOSS SHAMPOO.

This is an economic and very satisfactory preparation.

FORMULA.

White Castile Soap (the very best) 1 pound Refined Carbonate of Potash ¾ pound Distilled or rain water 1 gallon Table Salt ½ ounce

Refined Carbonate of Potash is also called Pure Salts of Tartar. I have found the English brands preferable.

DIRECTIONS.—Shave the soap fine and put into the water (as per above formula), which should be contained in a porcelain vessel.

Let it boil until soap is thoroughly dissolved and strain off into another vessel, and then add the pure salts of tartar while still hot. Add the salt and enough more boiling water to replace the amount which has boiled away, and continue to stir until it becomes only luke warm; then add a few drops of the oil of cloves (or some other perfume), if desirable. Finally pour off in small jelly jars and set away for use. 1 gallon made in this way will make 5 gallons of ordinary shampoo, by simply adding 4 gallons more of water. This quantity should not cost over fifty cents. A pound of the refined carbonate of potash costs twenty cents, and a pound of castile soap only fifteen cents, and the perfume will cost less than the remainder of 50 cents.

One teaspoonful is enough to clean any ordinary suit of hair.

In cleaning ladies' hair it is well to add a little ethylic ether, commonly called sulphuric ether. Never use hard water. If necessary save up enough rain water. I give elsewhere directions for making shampooing outfit, which may also be conveniently used for shower baths in shops and houses where there is no connection with water works. Water to be used for shampooing should always be warm.

EGG SHAMPOO.

This favorite preparation should be used immediately after mixing.

Take 1 fresh egg, 1 teaspoonful of silver gloss shampoo, and ¼ teaspoonful of powdered borax. Mix together with an egg beater, and then use as other shampoos.

A CHEAP SEA FOAM.

Take 2 ounces of the silver gloss shampoo, 2 ounces alcohol, 1 ounce glycerine and 1 pint water; shake well together and perfume to suit your fancy.

The shampoo or sea-foam can be colored a nice yellow by making a tea of saffron and water, adding enough after straining it to get the desired color. Powdered carmine can also be used to color a red or pink color.

BRILLIANTINE.

Take 1 ounce of good glycerine, ¼ ounce of rose geranium and 1 ounce water. Mix. This preparation is a good one, and can be made very cheap by using a less amount of the perfume. It never separates, and is good as long as there is a drop of it left.

ENGRAVING FLUIDS.

We here give a formula for making an etching fluid, to be used in marking razors, shears and other steel tools.

FORMULA.

Bluestone 1 ounce Table Salt 1 ounce Water 6 ounces

DIRECTIONS.—Cover blade or plate with soap or varnish, and then with etching needle or common pencil write the name or letters desired, being careful to score or scratch through to the metal. Then fill the traced lines with the fluid and let it remain five minutes. The fluid will corrode the metal in the lines thus laid bare. Therefore when the covering and acid are washed off the lettering will remain.

Be careful to wash promptly and dry thoroughly.

BLACK HEADS.

What are known as black heads are generally found in the skin of people who are addicted to the use of much hog meat. Such people are also as a rule, rather careless, to say the least, about bathing their faces. A hint to the wise will be sufficient. Let them not be afraid a rough towel will scratch them. I give below a recipe highly recommended.

FORMULA.

Alcohol 4 ounces Boracic Acid 2 drachms Distilled or rain water 1½ ounces

Apply this three times per day after first having thoroughly washed the face and rubbing dry with a coarse towel. Considerable benefit will, at least, be derived from a faithful application of the above.

HAIR BLEACHING.

First clean the hair with the Silver Gloss shampoo, and when dry apply peroxide of hydrogen until damp. When dry, again repeat the application, and continue to repeat it until nearly as light as desired.

The hair will continue to bleach a little lighter for about three days, and hence it is necessary to discontinue the application when the hair is a shade darker than desired.

WHITENING FOR THE FACE.

Put 1 ounce of the oxide of zinc into a plate and pour over it 3 ounces of soft water. Mash zinc with a spoon until it is all dissolved. Pour the solution into a pint bottle and fill up with witch hazel. When the weather is cold, pure soft water may be used instead of the witch hazel; but the preparation would sour in warm weather. Apply with a soft cloth.

BARBERS' ITCH.

Fear of this disease causes many men to shave themselves, and this class would otherwise be among the very best customers.

When these men observe how careless the average barber is with his towels, mugs, tools, etc., they become disgusted and purchase a shaving outfit and quit the barbers' chair, except when they want a hair-cut.

I believe every barber should know how to treat this disease. Hence I will make a few suggestions as to its causation and treatment.

Scabies, or itch, in its various forms is a disease caused by the irritation produced from the presence in the skin of what is called the itch mite and the ova of the same. The cure involves the destruction of these parasites. Get a doctor, if possible, to prescribe; if no doctor can be got who understands it, I would try the following: An ointment made from the flour of sulphur and lard or sulphur and vaseline, is about the best remedy known. Rub in well at night and wash off in morning. Or take citron ointment 1 ounce and mutton tallow 1 ounce. Melt together and stir till cool. This I have found one of the best salves for all skin diseases I have ever tried. Apply twice a day, but use with care since it contains mercury.

HAIR OILS AND HAIR DRESSINGS.

While oiling the hair is a thing of the past, we might indulge a few remarks as a matter of history. Thirty years ago almost every customer used oil on his hair, and every barber was expected to know how to mix his own oils. A favorite preparation was made as follows: 1 pint of alcohol and 1½ pints of castor-oil were shaken together, and then perfumed with citronella or bergamot.

Another favorite was made of raccoon oil and lard mixed half and half, and perfumed with the oil of cloves.

Some used the coon oil straight; others used the oil of birds, geese, chickens or ducks, etc. Bear oil was considered a great oil for the hair as well as for many other purposes. My own favorite among all the home made preparations was made from beef marrow. The marrow was tried out and a little salt was added. The oil was then perfumed with bergamot.

POMADES.

In selecting material for pomade, have a butcher get you some fine leaf lard and some of the finest suet, which should be taken from young animals. Render out separately in porcelain vessels and strain off.

DIRECTIONS.—Take lard 1 pound, tallow 1 pound; mix them and heat gently, and cook for one hour over a slow fire; remove and let stand a few minutes to settle; now pour off carefully. When almost cold add some suitable perfume, say oil of bergamot 4 drachms, oil of lemon 3 drachms, oil of cassia 2 drachms, oil of nutmeg 75 drops. Mix thoroughly with the pomade and pour into small jars.

STICK POMADES.

Take of the prepared tallow 1 pound, pure, clean bees wax 3 ounces, gum benzoin, in a coarse powder, 1¼ drachms. Melt together with a slow heat, mixing all the while. When partly cooled add some suitable perfume. Pour it off in moulds and when cold take out and wrap in tin foil, then put on a nice label as outer covering.

To make the above into a coloring pomade, take 3 pounds of the prepared lard and tallow, before being perfumed; add to it 2 pounds of fresh walnut hulls, cut up fine; put into a porcelain vessel and heat gently for four hours. Take off and strain, and proceed as in making the black pomade. This will gradually color the hair or beard to a nice brown by being used daily until the desired shade is obtained.

HOW TO STOP BLOOD.

Every barber should have at hand a preparation for stopping blood. The best of barbers are liable to bring blood from rough or tender faces. An astringent pencil, which is very good and very handy, may be obtained from the barber supply houses in the cities at a cost of only 10 cents each. However, I prefer Monsell's Powdered Iron which may be obtained from any drug store. The only objection to it is, it is liable to discolor the skin. However, by being careful to put on only a small amount, it may easily be washed off when the blood has ceased to ooze.

If a small bump has been cut off or a shallow cut made in the smooth skin, it will generally suffice to cover it with a thick lather and let it remain until the shaving is completed.

Alum is also used but is too slow in its action.

HAIR RESTORERS.

I could give a formula that would make the hair fall out, but thus far I have not been able to find a preparation that will produce a new growth of hair on bald heads. As a preventative treatment I might suggest as follows:

Boil burdock root in soft water until strong, and then add to one pint of it, a half pint of alcohol, a teaspoonful of salt, and 1 ounce of glycerine. This used once a day will prevent the hair from falling out. Or make a strong decoction of black tea or sage and mix with the alcohol, salt, and glycerine as above and use as above.

The basis of most hair tonics is the tincture of cantharides, quinine, ammonia, camphor, and salt. A solution of borax in camphor water is used by some as a stimulant for the scalp. I have a friend who is experimenting on a new line with very encouraging prospects of successfully producing hair on bald heads. If any party interested will address me a few months hence, I may be able to advise them how to reproduce hair on bald heads.

GLASS HONES.

A glass hone is easily made, and no barber should be without one. Procure a piece of heavy plate glass and have a glass cutter cut it into pieces 3×8 inches in dimensions. Take the gloss off the face and also around the edges on a grindstone, and then finish by rubbing the face of the hone with pumice-stone kept wet with water. Continue this rubbing until the gloss is entirely removed and the hone is smooth. Before honing take a rubber, such as is used on a water hone, and, after wetting hone rub until you have a sort of lather. Hone on this as you would on any other hone. You will find it excellent for smoothing shears after grinding, or a razor after having been over honed.

MUGS, BRUSHES AND SOAPS.

The mug should be large and heavy and the brush used to make the lather should also be large and first-class in every particular. In regard to brushes, I would suggest that it pays to buy the very best.

A poor brush that is continually shedding hairs is very annoying to the customer, and it hinders the barber. I prefer the rubber ferruled brush, but be sure to get the genuine.

In regard to soap I must admit that I am partial to the J. B. Williams barber soap. However, there are other brands that give good satisfaction. There are no soaps too good. Hence get the best.

FACE POWDERS.

There is nothing much better than cake magnesia, but it should only be used to dry the face after shaving. I have given a liquid whiting which is much used by ladies. I have often used it on men to whiten the skin. See whitening for the face.

SHOWER BATH AND SHAMPOO CAN.

Take a common tin bucket which holds three gallons, have a small tube one inch long and one quarter of an inch in diameter put in one side about one half inch from bottom of bucket.

Then get a rubber hose three feet long of suitable diameter to fit on to the tube. At the other extremity of the hose attach a sprinkler with its tubular end made to fit the hose.

Connect the hose to bucket and the sprinkler to hose, and the can is complete.

Lay the sprinkler over the upper rim of can (or bucket) to keep the water from flowing out. Fill with soft warm water; and, when ready to take the bath or shampoo, hang from ceiling or set on shelf high enough to allow the water to flow over the head and body.

Put on the shampoo. Take the sprinkler and thoroughly wash and rinse.

Three gallons of water used in this way is better than a whole bath tub full used in the ordinary way. This apparatus of course applies to country places where they have not the advantage of water works, or where the water furnished is hard.

TOWELS, HAIR CLOTHS, AND FACE CLOTHS.

If you would secure first-class trade, you must keep a good supply of clean good looking towels. Nothing is more disgusting in a shop than a lot of dirty ragged towels.

The workmen may be first-class, the tools first-class, etc.; but unless the towels are in proper condition the better class of trade will go elsewhere.

I prefer a good moderate sized cotton towel, except for the wash cloth, where I prefer a cotton crash towel on the order of a bath towel.

This crash comes in bolts and may be cut the desired length; it must, however, be hemmed. For the bath always use a good towel but not too large.

The breast cloth made of calico or gingham, should be full width of goods, and not less than three and a half feet long. It should have a half neck opening at one side made to fit up around the neck.

The hair cloth may be made of calico, gingham or bleached sheeting. If the sheeting is used get the goods wide enough to require no seam, and then border with a two inch band of red oiled calico.

SUGGESTIONS FOR BEGINNERS.

In the first place, if you have made up your mind to be a barber, why not be a good one. There is always room at the top, and rich reward for him who has reached the top. Rich reward, however, is the price of self-exertion. Do not wait for a tidal wave to waft you on to success. The minions of fortune are few and far between. You must not only work but you must embrace every opportunity to improve your qualifications, if you would achieve success in this age of advanced knowledge and skill. You should always be on the alert, and never miss an opportunity to acquire useful information. Knowledge is power, and it behooves you to gain all the knowledge you can, especially of your own business. If necessary pay for it, work for it, or even beg for it. The possession of a good fund of practical knowledge with other necessary qualities of mind and heart, will enable one to wear good clothes, make plenty of money and to have scores of friends; while the lack of it will make another the digger of ditches, living in rags and poverty, and deprived of the more congenial companionship of the better and nobler elements of society. Knowledge pays.

Moreover, while you should attend well to the proper equipment of your mind, you should not neglect the proper cultivation of your social character. Especially should you cultivate what might be termed a practical business social tact.

Treat every customer as though your success depended upon him and him alone, and always exert your utmost to do good work. Much depends upon the barber's ability to shave well. To accomplish the great desideratum of being able to shave well each one of the various customers with their varying qualities of beard, you must diligently study the temper of your razors with reference to the peculiar beard of each customer. Again much depends upon the lather, the brush, the hone, the strop, etc. Hence you will please pardon a few simple primary suggestions leading up to a good shave. First you must equip yourself with first-class tools.

Procure a first-class oil hone.

A large rubber ferruled lather brush.

A large heavy shaving mug.

A half dozen No. 1 razors, 4½ to 4⅝ wide and ¾ concave.

Your soap and all other materials and implements should be as good as you are able to buy.

When you hone your razor on the oil hone, use good soap and make a stiff lather which you will spread on the hone. Then place the razor on the hone and draw very lightly from heel to point so that the edge of the razor will always be on the front side of the moving blade. Each stroke across the hone should be a sloping or sawing stroke, and at the end of each the razor should be turned on the back and pushed up across the end of the hone, and the other side of the blade laid flat on the hone. Then draw the razor back with a curving or angular stroke to the other end of the hone. Turn again as before and continue with steady stroke until you think the blade is sharp. Wet the thumb nail and try the edge by drawing it lightly from end to end. Should the edge feel blunt or rough make a few more strokes on the hone and try again, and so on until the edge is satisfactory. A better way to test the edge, if you have a smooth soft hand, is to wet the end of thumb or fore finger and draw the razor lightly over it feeling of the edge. However, it requires practice to tell with certainty by either method. Therefore practice carefully until you become expert.

We will here make a few suggestions in regard to the different hones generally used by barbers. The oil hone, which is supposed to be petrified hickory, is the one most used, and is perhaps the best. Second in rank and general use comes the Swatty hone which is made from the same material as the emery wheel, but it is of finer grade. This is a very fast cutting hone. Next comes the water hone which is simply a fine grit stone, and then comes the glass hone which is but little used. A few barbers use it to take off the wire edge of over-honed razors. Hones should be handled with great care. In honing the razor should be run well out to the ends to prevent hollowing the hone. Should a hone begin to hollow, work it down with fine sand paper to a perfect face and smooth it with the rubber used on the water hones. I prefer olive oil on an oil hone if carefully used. Of course lather may be used on an oil hone the same as on the Swatty and glass hones. Use water on the water hone and rub with the rub stone commonly used until the surface is covered with a sort of soapy pasty lather before honing. The glass hone may be used in the same manner. Any hone when not in use should be wrapped up and laid away carefully after having been washed and thoroughly cleaned.

You should be provided with a good shell strop, or a good Russian leather strop, and also a good canvas strop. After honing strop the razor lightly on the leather only. The canvas should not be used except when the razor has become smooth. When you have a customer in the chair, first put a clean towel on him and proceed to make the lather using warm soft water. Lather the face and scour the beard, and then lather again with a good heavy lather. Proceed to shave, drawing the razor with a sawing stroke, and make the strokes as long as practicable. Hold the skin tight to throw out the beard, and go over the face the first time as quickly as possible. Then wash the soap from the face, and go over it a second time, keeping the skin somewhat stretched, and wet with soft water. When finished, press a hot towel to the face and then use one of the face creams given in this book.

Next powder the face, and curl and perfume the mustache. If you think his hair needs trimming tell him so, and if he has it done, do your very best, even taking pains to cut the hair out of his ears. Shave his neck. The most important point is to get a good edge on the hair.

If he takes a shampoo, first give the scalp a good brushing to loosen the dandruff, and then use Silver Gloss Shampoo, giving him to understand that you have it for sale for family use. Rinse hair with warm soft water, and dry with a fine bath towel, and then ask him if you shall apply some of the hair tonic which will cost him only ten cents extra.

Comb his hair in the latest style, and if he desires it, color his mustache with the celebrated German Hair Dye. Help him into his coat, and thanking him bid him come again.

Purchase every good book pertaining to your business, study diligently and practice what you learn, and you will soon stand abreast with the best and most progressive barbers. You should be prompted by no meaner ambition.

SUCCESS.

“If you wish success in life,
Make perseverance your bosom friend,
Experience your wise counselor,
Caution your elder brother,
And hope your guardian genius.”
_Addison_.

Taxidermist's Manual.

By T. J. MCCONNAUGHAY.

Taxidermy.

The word taxidermy is derived from the two Greek words, taxis, which means arrangement, and derma which means skin. Hence this term is applied to the art of preserving and mounting the skins of animals for ornamental and scientific purposes. Little is known of the origin of this art, but it would seem from books of travel and natural history, that it is at most, not more than three hundred years old. It began to be practiced in England about the beginning of the 18th century, which fact is proven from the “Sloane Collection” which was formed in 1825, as the nucleus of the present natural history collection lodged in the galleries of South Kensington. It was about the middle of the 18th century that the first book devoted to the principles of taxidermy was published in France. After this, others appeared from time to time in France and Germany, but England contributed no literature on the subject until about the beginning of the present century. In 1828 an Englishman named Scudder, established a museum of mounted specimens in an old alms house in New York City. Previous to this, the art seems to have been absolutely unknown in America. It was not till the exhibition of 1851, that the French and German taxidermists taught the English the principles of scientific treatment.

Since that time several works have appeared from the pens of English and American authors. Prominently among the American writers, were Charles Waterton and Titian R. Peale who greatly improved the art in this country.

Jules Verreaux, of Paris, brought the art to a still higher perfection, and introduced methods for giving to specimens a life-like expression, which elevated it quite to the realm of higher art. Great were his accomplishments in the art of expressing the actions and characteristic attitudes of the living animals. Since his day taxidermy has rivaled the plastic art, and today, it has reached such a degree of perfection that the most artistic and æsthetic effects may be wrought by the hands of any operator who possesses artistic faculties. The Illinois State Natural History Society of Bloomington, published an illustrated pamphlet from the pen of one Mr. Holder, which is a very valuable contribution to taxidermic literature. The author was doubtless greatly improved by his associations with Audubon and Bell, and in his book he gives the results of a ripe experience. This book ranks as one of the best yet published. We submit the results of our own patient study and practical experience, and hope it may prove a worthy addition.

ARTICLE I.
ON SKINNING, STUFFING AND PRESERVATION OF BIRDS.

SKINNING.

Immediately after the bird is killed, the nostrils, throat and wounds should be stuffed with cotton to prevent the blood from oozing out and staining the plumage; but should any blood get on the plumage, it should be removed as soon as possible. This can be done by taking a cloth or sponge and dipping it in clean water, wringing it out so as to leave it only moist, and rubbing the feathers gently until all traces of blood stain are removed. Now sprinkle the feathers with plaster of paris, and shake out before it sets. Repeat this until they are perfectly dry, and then wrap the specimen in paper to protect the plumage until ready to skin, which should be done as soon as the bird cools.

In proceeding to skin a bird, spread a cloth on a board or table and lay the bird on its back. Separate the feathers on the breast with a scalpel or knife. Insert the knife at the top of breast-bone and cut the skin from there to the tail. Great care should be taken not to cut too deep over the intestines, as it is only necessary to cut through the skin. Now begin where you first inserted the knife and proceed to separate the skin from the flesh, either with the fingers or the back of the scalpel or knife. Tear some small pieces of paper, say about an inch square, and put under the skin on the flesh as you get them separated, which will keep the feathers from sticking to the flesh and becoming soiled; or sprinkling cornmeal over the flesh and skin while skinning, will answer the same purpose. Press carefully down each side to backbone. Now press the thighs forward and inward, draw the skin from the thighs, unjointing them at the first joint from the body.

The skin is now removed over the rump, and the tail unjointed, taking care not to injure the tail feathers. Now for convenience, take a cord and fasten it to a nail on the wall or ceiling, put a wire hook on the other end, and fasten in the bird so you can suspend it high enough above the table to work on it easily. Now pull the skin downwards until you get to the wings, which are to be unjointed at the shoulder joint. It is then pulled down over the skull until the ears are reached. Here many valuable specimens are spoiled by cutting the ears too close to the skin, so be sure to cut the ears close to the skull.

The eyelids are often spoiled also by inexperienced hands. Be sure and cut them well back and, if necessary, trim them afterwards. Now remove the eyeballs and unjoint the skull from the neck, enlarge the opening at the base of skull, where the neck came off, and remove the brain with spoon made for that purpose. Now remove the flesh from the thigh bone down to knee joint, and turn them back in place; then skin the wings out to first joint and remove the flesh. There is yet one job and the skinning process is completed. Divide the feathers on the under side of the wing between the second and third joints, cut the skin, and with a sharp knife cut out all flesh from the bone, and put in some of the preserving powder; cover it with a little cotton and sew it up, being careful not to draw any of the feathers in; press the feathers down smooth, and see that each is in its proper place.

There are some birds with large heads and small necks. With these we cannot draw the skin over the head, but have to push the skin as near the head as it is possible, and cut off the neck bone; then make an opening under the throat large enough to turn out the skull and the remaining part of the neck bone, and proceed to skin the skull, take out brain, etc., as directed heretofore. The flesh must be carefully removed from all parts of the skin, and the preserving powder applied, being very careful that all parts are well powdered.

If you now wish to mount the bird it can be done immediately.

STUFFING BIRDS.

In the first place take some plaster paris, mix it with water to a stiff paste, and fill the eye-sockets with it, then press the glass eye in the paris, using great care to set them in as near a natural position as possible. When the plaster has hardened, which it does very quickly, if the skin has become dry, dampen it with a damp sponge, and turn it back over the skull, then lay the bird on the table and proceed to put in the frame, stuff and sew up.

I give three kinds of frames. One is the wire and wood frame, which you see on page 78, Figs. 9 and 10. The others, wire frames, on page 80, Fig. 3, for birds; also Fig. 11, for humming birds and other small birds, on page 78.

Take frame described Nos. 9 and 10, having the leg wire AA detached from body board, fill the neck with tow, being careful not to fill it too full; run neck wire E through the center of the neck and pass it out at the top of head, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3, or through one of the nostrils. I prefer the latter, because it does not break the skin and holds the head more steady. Then put the tail support E through the center or heavy part of the tail, raise the body board and place under it some tow or cotton; or pad the board by placing some cotton on it and tacking some cloth over it to keep the frame off from the back; then take the leg wires, Fig. 13, AA and put them in the legs, as shown in cut No. 3, and fasten on to the body board with blind staples, as represented in cut No. 3; proceed with the stuffing; finish filling out the neck and breast, shaping it while filling, using care not to get it too full, as that is a fault of most beginners; after filling it down to the opening, the next should be the legs; if the leg bone is left in from the knee up, wrap it to the leg wire with a strip of muslin and tie it; then stuff the leg up to the body, fill the body and sew up; in sewing be careful not to draw any of the feathers down with the thread. After it is all sewed up, place all the feathers down smooth and in their proper place, as much depends on this.

Next place the specimen on a board or perch; if on a board, procure a suitable one, bore two holes the size of the leg wires through it, then make a groove on the under side of board running off from each hole to lay wire down in; place the specimen on the board, running the leg wires through it, and draw the wires down until the legs set in proper position, bend the wires down into the grooves and fasten them with small blind staples. In this connection one should use his own judgment in placing the bird on the board; one leg should generally be placed a little in advance of the other. If the bird is to be placed on a limb perch, bore the holes through the limb, place the bird on, and draw the wires tight, and drive a wooden wedge in beside the wire to hold it, then file the wire off close to the under side of the perch. Pose the bird in as natural a position as you can, imitating nature as near as possible. Place the wings in position, then take a piece of wire heavy enough to hold the wings in place. Sharpen one end, and make a square turn about one-fourth of an inch from the other end to keep it from pulling through the wing. Now place the wings in proper shape. Pass the wire through the wings and body in a way to hold them in shape. Pull the wire until the turn on the one end presses against the wing. Cut the wire on other side of bird and turn it back, as on the other side, so that the wire cannot be pulled either way; then arrange the whole body—wings, neck, tail, head, etc. In case the specimen is a web-footed bird, take a thin piece of board, say from a cigar box, cut it to fit in between the toes, and tack them in to hold the web in shape while drying. This should be removed when dry. After all is completed bathe the buts of wings, the feet, legs and beak, with the preserving fluid; this should be repeated for three or four days. Then let the specimen dry in a shady place. It can then be placed on another board or perch and set in the cabinet.

MOUNTING BIRDS ON WIRE FRAME.

(See directions for making frame.)

Skin the bird and prepare it as directed in this article. Fill the neck with tow, put in neck wire, letting the end come out through the nostril; bend leg wires AA back so as to get them in the legs; run them down on the inside of the leg, or through the center of leg bone, and come out in the center of the foot. (See cuts Nos. 2 and 3.) Put tail support E through the under part of the tail, and proceed as directed heretofore in this article, to stuff, sew up, etc.

Where the tow can not be secured and you have to use cotton in stuffing, always put in the neck wire first, and stuff around it or wrap the neck wire with strips of muslin, old calico, or anything that can be used for that purpose, always being careful not to make the neck too large. Excelsior can be used to good advantage in stuffing large bodies.

PELICANS.

In dressing a pelican always use the board and wire frame. For position, copy after some picture of the bird, which you can find in any natural history. The only difference in dressing from the goose, etc., is they have a game sack under the lower jaw, which is often as much as ten inches wide and sixteen inches long. I find the best way to dress that is to take a fine shingle, wide and long enough, and trim it in the shape of a sleigh runner, and put it inside of the pouch or game sack, with the straight edge up and the square end toward the neck. Draw the pouch smooth over the shingle, and tie the bill together, then wet well with the solution of corrosive sublimate. The board should be left in. Wire can be bent and placed in to answer the same purpose.

PEA-FOWL.

In dressing a pea-fowl, where the wings and tail have to be spread, extra wires have to be put in. The wires for the wings are fastened on to the body board, as when used for the fore legs of animals. Then, for the tail support, take a wire about five feet long and bend it in a hoop shape, leaving enough of the ends to extend into and fasten on the body board. This must be put on the board before putting it in the body. Dress the bird as others, letting the hoop or tail support extend out under the tail. After it is all stuffed and set on the board, bend the tail support up back of tail, and fasten the feathers of the tail to it by tying them, one at a time, with a heavy thread, in such a way that when all are fastened to the wire they will stand as when the bird was strutting. Arrange the wings and body to suit and let dry.

DRESSING BIRDS WITH WINGS SPREAD.

To dress a bird with wings spread, either flying or sitting, it will be necessary to put in wing wires to hold the wings out. The easiest way is to use the wire and board frame, using the front leg wires as used in animals, for the wings. See Figs. 7 and 8, board and body frame.

In dressing a bird this way, after skinning and wiring, as directed for bird, using frames 9 and 10, put in the wing wires and fasten them to body board, as directed for forelegs of animals.

If wishing to represent the bird as flying, take four cords and fasten them to the back of the bird in a way that will balance it; tie them together a few inches above the back and extend one cord longer than the others. It can now be hung from the ceiling by the cord; this will let the specimen turn about and present a fine appearance. The feet should be placed in as near a natural position as possible as when flying. In all large footed birds use plenty of the solution of corrosive sublimate or turpentine. The carbolic acid and water mixture is also used, and is good.

TO CLEAN FEATHERS.

As a test case take a bird after killing and smear it all over with blood, let it lie until dry. Then put it in a basin, and give it a good washing with soap and water, then rinse it clean. Now take a dry cloth and wipe it until almost dry. Then sprinkle it with dry plaster of paris and shake it out before it has time to set. Repeat this powdering and shaking until it is perfectly dry, and the feathers will look bright and nice. Try it.

PRESERVATION OF BUGS, ETC.

Take a large moth fly or miller full of eggs. Make an incision on the under side of body and take out all the eggs and entrails. Now put in some of the preserving fluid and fill the cavity with cotton and sew it up. Then run a pin down through the body and pin it to a board. Arrange its feet, moisten its body with the preserving fluid and the job is complete. Butterflies and small bugs need only the preparation over the body. Heavy bugs can be placed in a cup and the preparation poured over them. Let them lie in it a few hours and pin on board as directed in moth flies. When dry place in a glass case.

ARTICLE II.
OF SKINNING ANIMALS.

As soon as an animal is killed, take cotton and stuff in the wounds, nostrils and mouth, as directed in Article I. for birds; then let it cool before commencing to skin. In skinning a specimen be very careful about cutting holes in the skin, and also not to stretch it by pulling on it while skinning. All being ready, lay the specimen on its back, make an incision from the breast-bone back to the center between the hind legs, being careful not to cut too deep over the abdomen. Divide the skin right and left, putting cotton or paper on the body as the skin is removed, or sprinkle with corn meal, as directed for birds in Article I, to prevent the fatty matter from soiling the hair. When you come to the hind legs, pull the skin down over the thigh joint, and unjoint it, cut the leg off and skin down to the knee joint and unjoint there, taking out all the flesh down to the foot, then treat the other hind leg the same way. Now skin down over the rump and back to the tail. The tail is hard to skin. Take a forked stick, and after pressing the skin as far down on the tail-bone as possible, holding the bone as tight in the fork as you can, pull downward and the bone will slip out. If the animal is not too large it should be swung up with a rope or cord tied around the body just in front of the hind legs, or by attaching a hook to the rope which fastens into the flesh. Remove the skin down to the forelegs, and unjoint them at the body, and skin out in the same manner as directed for the hind legs, unjointing at the knees. Now skin the neck and head, and when you come to the ears cut them close to the skull; fine specimens are often spoiled by cutting them too far out from the skull. We next come to the eyes. Be careful not to cut the eyelids. It is better to cut close to the skull and trim afterwards than to risk spoiling them. Remove the skin. Unjoint the neck close to the skull, enlarge the opening at the base of brain and remove all the brains. Take out the eyes and tongue and remove all flesh from the skull.

This completes the skinning, except when the animal has horns. In that case, proceed as above until you come to the neck. Skin as far forward as you can and unjoint the neck at skull. Then cut across from one horn to the other and loosen the skin around the horns. Then make another cut from between the horns backwards along the neck far enough to make the opening large enough to take the skull out; skin out the skull and the skinning is completed. The flesh must now be cleaned from the skull by boiling until tender, then scraping it, or simply by cutting and scraping it.