Chapter III: Introduction (2)

How often one hears complaints as to the lack of flowers during the coldest months of the year. And how often one sees, in almost empty greenhouses, bare shelves that could be made gay with blossom, and with but little labour or expense. This can be done easily enough by selecting early flowering bulbs, and having them "potted up" early in the autumn, so that they will have made plenty of roots by, say, Christmas time. The pots most generally useful are 5-inch ones (often called 48's). These should have some broken pieces put in the bottom for drainage, and over this a layer of moss or fibre to prevent the soil from choking it up later on. A compost made up of three parts of rich fibrous loam, one part of silver or river sand, and one part of leaf-soil, all well mixed, should be prepared. A handful or two is placed over the drainage, and one, two, three, or five bulbs, according to size, may then be placed on a level bottom. The pot is then filled to within about a quarter of an inch of the rim, the soil being firmly pressed down between the bulbs, the tops of which may be either level with the surface or beneath it. In any case, it is not necessary to bury bulbs that are going to have the protection of a greenhouse so deep as those planted in the open air, where they will have no protection from the weather.

The bulbs, having been potted, and labelled if necessary, say sometime in October or November, need not be taken into the greenhouse at once. It is better to keep them in the open air, covered with two or three inches of fine ashes or coco-nut fibre until the bulbs have made plenty of new roots in the soil, or they may be sheltered in a cold frame. Any time after this, as many pots as may be required are taken out of the ashes or fibre, the remains of which should be washed from the pots and shaken off the surface of the soil. If there is a slight warmth in the greenhouse, just enough to keep the frost out on cold nights, so much the better, but too much heat is unnecessary, unless one wishes to "force" bulbs into very early bloom. This, however, generally means exhaustion, if not death, to the bulbs so artificially treated.

There are many kinds of bulbous plants suitable for the decoration of cold greenhouses in winter and early spring in the way indicated, and the following may be regarded as a good selection:--Bulbocodiums, Chionodoxas, Crocuses (Spring), Erythroniums, Fritillarias (dwarf), Snowdrops, Hyacinths, Snowflakes, Grape Hyacinths, Dwarf Narcissi, Puschkinias, Scillas, Sternbergia Fischeriana, Bulbous Irises, Tecophilaea--all of which are described in their respective places in this work.

BULBOUS PLANTS FOR WINDOW BOXES.

PLATE 13. BRODIAEA UNIFLORA (51-52), CHIONODOXA SARDENSIS (53), ERYTHRONIUM DENS-CANIS (54-55)

When the Zonal Pelargoniums, Marguerites, Fuchsias, Lobelias, &c., have done their duty in the window boxes during the summer and autumn months, it is essential that something else must take their places for the winter and spring months, unless they are to be left bare. Dwarf shrubs, of course, like Aucubas, Golden Privet, Cupressus, Skimmias, &c., are much favoured, and rightly so. But in conjunction with them many kinds of bulbous plants may be used, and planted at the same time as the shrubs. Snowdrops and Crocuses are great favourites for the edges of boxes. Besides these, however, the beautiful blue-flowered Grape Hyacinths (Muscari), the Chionodoxas and Scilla sibirica, may be used in a similar way and with great effect, or as a carpet beneath the shrubs. If the latter are not placed too close together, space may be left for a few bulbs of Tulips and Daffodils to peep out between them.

Of course, window boxes filled entirely with bulbous plants would probably look much more artistic than those having a mixture of shrubs and bulbs. Combinations in miniature could be made in the same way as suggested for the open air beds on p. 41. Boxes planted with Polyanthuses, Primroses, Forget-me-Nots, Silene, White Arabis, Yellow Alyssum, Wallflowers, &c., as well as bulbs, would not look bare in autumn or winter, and would be very effective when in blossom in the spring time.

DESCRIPTIONS, CULTURE, PROPAGATION, &c., OF THE BEST BULBOUS PLANTS FOR THE OPEN AIR.

=ALLIUM.=--Although about 250 species of this liliaceous genus are known, only a dozen or so are usually met with in gardens--the limited number being probably due to the pungent and not altogether agreeable odour they emit when bruised or cut. In fact, the plants may be briefly described as more or less ornamental Onions, as they belong to the same family as this well-known esculent, and naturally possess a family likeness. The bulbs are tunicated, the leaves either flat as in the Leek, or roundish and hollow as in the ordinary Onion, while the 6-petalled starry flowers are borne in umbels on the top of the shoot that springs out of the bulb under the ground.

The kinds mentioned below flourish in ordinary good garden soil of a gritty nature, that has been deeply dug and well-manured. They are useful for the decoration of the flower border in bold patches, but are probably more natural in grass-land, where they can remain for several years undisturbed. The bulbs may be planted in early autumn, 3 or 4 inches deep--more or less according to the size of the bulbs, and will come into blossom from April and May, till July or August. As cut flowers, they are very ornamental, but unfortunately, they are not greatly used in this way owing to their odour, which some people find quite unbearable. Propagation is effected by means of offsets from the bulbs, or seeds. Two species--_A. Moly_, and _A. neapolitanum_--are often forced into early blossoms in the greenhouse, in the way mentioned at p. 46.

The following are the best kinds:--_Neapolitanum_, _Erdeli_ (see Plate 18, fig. 72), _karataviense_, _triquetrum_, _ursinum_, and _zebdanense_, all with white or whitish flowers; _acuminatum_, _hirtiflorum_, _Macnabianum_, _narcissiflorum_ (or _pedemontanum_), _Ostrowskianum_, _Schuberti_, and _Suworowi_, representing rose, magenta, crimson, lilac, and purple shades; the best yellow-flowered kinds are, _Moly_ (Plate 17, fig. 68), _flavum_, and _orientale_; while _coeruleum_ (or _azureum_) is the most attractive species with blue flowers. _A. acuminatum_ is the dwarfest of these, being only about a foot high, the others rarely exceeding 1-1/2 to 2 feet, except perhaps _hirtiflorum_ and _Suworowi_, which often are 3 feet high.

=AMARYLLIS Belladonna= (_Belladonna Lily_).--This charming member of the Narcissus family deserves more extensive cultivation than it enjoys at present. It is a native of South Africa, and has large bulbs--3 to 4 inches or more deep--with thickish, silky-woollen coats, and strap-shaped leaves, usually 12 to 18 inches long. About August and September, the sweet-scented funnel-shaped blossoms of a soft rosy colour (see Plate 31, fig. 111) are produced on top of a stout stalk, 12 to 18 inches high, after the foliage has withered. Some varieties are better than others, but the best of all is that which originated at Kew, and is remarkable for having three or four dozen rich rosy crimson flowers on a scape 2 to 3 feet high.

The Belladonna Lily can only be grown satisfactorily in the open air in the milder parts of the kingdom. The bulbs should be planted about 9 inches deep in a well-drained loamy soil containing plenty of sand and leaf-soil. Beneath a wall facing due south is generally a good position for the plants. In winter, cold rains should be kept off by placing a layer of leaves or litter over the dormant bulbs. The simplest way to increase the stock is to detach the offsets from the old bulbs whenever the latter are disturbed--say every fourth or fifth year.

_Note._--The gorgeous plants grown in greenhouses under the name of Amaryllis rightly belong to the genus Hippeastrum, and are too tender for open air culture in our climate.

PLATE 14. ENGLISH IRISES (56-59)

=ANTHOLYZA.=--The brown-coated corms, sword-like leaves, and the bright-coloured tubular flowers of these plants very much resemble those of the closely-related genus Gladiolus. Indeed, what suits the Gladiolus will suit the Antholyzas in the way of a well-drained loamy soil. A somewhat warmer and sunnier position is, however, necessary, as these South African plants have not been acclimatised by selection and hybridisation in the same way as the Gladiolus. The best-known kinds are _aethiopica_, with spikes of scarlet and greenish flowers; _caffra_, rich scarlet; _Cunonia_, scarlet and black; _fulgens_, rich coppery rose; and _paniculata_, with red, brown, and yellow blossoms, and apparently the hardiest of all. They are all best increased by offsets.

=BABIANA= (_Baboon Root_).--Charming plants of the Iris family, with fibrous-coated corms about an inch in diameter, stiffish, hairy, plaited leaves, and dense spikes of funnel-shaped flowers. The latter, in most cases, are sweetly scented and brilliantly coloured, and in a cut state, are exceedingly handsome for decorative work. Unfortunately the plants are not very hardy, and can only be grown in the open air in the very warmest and mildest parts of the kingdom with anything like success. In favourable localities the corms should be planted 3 or 4 inches deep, in mild weather, any time between September and November. The soil should be very light, loamy, and well-drained, and the position should be the warmest and sunniest in the garden. Plenty of sand or grit around the corms is an advantage, and a covering of leaves or litter will keep off cold winter rains. Babianas are very useful for cool greenhouse decoration, and may be easily grown in pots, only giving water when roots have developed, and the new leaves are beginning to show. (See p. 46).

The best kinds are _disticha_, pale blue; _plicata_, violet blue; _ringens_, scarlet; _stricta_, the three outer segments of which are white, the three inner lilac-blue with a dark blotch at the base. This is the best-known kind, and there are many forms of it, notably _angustifolia_, bright blue tinged with pink; and _rubro-cyanea_, brilliant blue and crimson. All increased by offsets.

=BESSERA elegans.=--A pretty liliaceous plant, 1-1/2 to 2 feet high, with slender rush-like leaves, and scarlet or scarlet and white bell-shaped blossoms. Being a native of Mexico it is rather tender, and can only be grown out of doors in the mildest parts of the British Isles in the same way as the Babianas. As a pot plant it may be grown in a cool greenhouse. Increased by offsets from the brown silky-coated corms.

=BLOOMERIA aurea.=--This is the best known species. It is a native of California and belongs to the Lily family. The small corms are covered with netted pale brown coats, from which spring long narrow leaves, and umbels of bright yellow starry flowers about June or July. _B. Clevelandi_ is another species with smaller yellow flowers. The corms of both kinds should be planted in warm sunny spots in well-drained sandy loam and leaf-soil in the autumn, and a little protection with leaves or litter may be given in cold wet winters.

=BOBARTIA aurantiaca.=--This pretty member of the Iris family is also known under the name of _Homeria_. It has roundish corms, an inch or more in diameter, covered with pale brown shaggy fibrous coats. The orange-red or yellow blossoms appear in summer and last a long time. The plant is a native of South Africa, and can only be grown in the mildest parts of the kingdom in the same way as the Babianas, Ixias, &c., which see. Increased by offsets.

=BRAVOA geminiflora.=--A graceful Mexican plant of the Narcissus family, with roundish fibrous-coated corms over an inch in diameter, and narrow sword-like leaves 12 to 18 inches long. The bright red or scarlet tubular blossoms droop in pairs from stalks 1 to 2 feet high from July onwards. In the milder parts of the kingdom this plant may be grown easily in sheltered sunny spots in rich sandy loam and leaf-soil, protection being only needed in severe winters from cold heavy rains or hard frosts by means of leaves or litter. Increased by offsets in autumn or seeds sown in spring.

=BREVOORTIA Ida-Maia= (_Brodiaea coccinea_).--This beautiful Liliaceous plant is popularly known as the "Californian Fire Cracker." It has roundish corms an inch or so in diameter, with brown fibrous coats. The leaves are very narrow, while the tubular flowers are borne in loose umbels in June or July on top of slender wiry stalks 2 to 3 feet high. The shape and colour of the individual blossoms are shown on Plate 19, fig. 75. They are very attractive in bold masses, and are excellent for cutting purposes. In the garden it is essential to support the slender flower-stems with thin sticks to keep the blossoms from trailing in the dirt. During September and October is the best time to plant the corms 3 to 4 inches deep, in rich sandy loam, in warm sunny spots in the border or rock-garden, where they should be allowed to remain for three or four seasons before they need be disturbed. Increased by offsets and seeds.

PLATE 15. SPANISH IRISES (60-63)

=BRODIAEA.=--The plants belonging to this genus have practically the same characters as those of Brevoortia, the chief differences being that many (but not all) of the Brodiaeas have six fertile stamens instead of three, and the perianth in many cases is more funnel or bell-shaped than cylindrical. The corms are about the same size with netted, brown, silky coats, but are quite distinct from those in the section formerly known under the names of _Milla_ and _Triteleia_. The cultural treatment is precisely the same as detailed under Brevoortia above. An idea as to the beauty of the blossoms of some of the kinds may be gained from a glance at Plates 13, 19, 20, and 24, in which _B. laxa_ (fig. 76), _B. ixioides_ (fig. 77) (also known as _Calliprora lutea_), _B. Bridgesi_ (fig. 91), _B. Howelli lilacina_ (fig. 80), and _B. uniflora_ (figs. 51 and 52) (the last named being remarkable for having flowers singly instead of in umbels), are respectively depicted. Other species well worth growing are _californica_, rosy-purple; _capitata_, lilac or violet, and its white variety _alba_; _congesta_, deep violet; _Douglasi_, bright blue; _gracilis_, bright yellow; _grandiflora_, violet-blue; _Hendersoni_, salmon-yellow striped with purple; _Howelli_, porcelain-white striped with blue; _hyacinthina_, purple, and its white variety _lactea_; _Leichtlini_, white; _multiflora_, pale blue; _Orcutti_, lilac; _peduncularis_, porcelain-white to rosy-purple; _Purdyi_, rosy-purple to lilac; _rosea_, rose-red to pinkish-purple; _Sellowiana_, yellow; and _stellaris_, reddish-purple to deep blue. To these may be added _B. volubilis_, remarkable for having twining stems often 12 feet long, and having 15 to 30 rose-coloured flowers in an umbel.

=BULBOCODIUM vernum.=--A charming Crocus-like plant of the Lily family, closely related to the Meadow Saffrons (Colchicum), as may be seen by comparing the method of lateral growth of the brown-coated corms--each an inch or more in diameter. It is a native of the Alps. In mild seasons it often produces its violet or rosy-purple funnel-shaped flowers in January, not more than 6 inches from the ground, and remains in blossom in company with Snowdrops, Leucojums, &c. The leaves appear afterwards and elaborate food for the production of next year's corms before they wither. A rich well-drained loam with a little sand and leaf-soil suits it very well, and the corms may be planted in September or October about 4 inches deep, in bold masses in the rock garden or grass-land, and left alone for a few years, after which there will be numerous offsets to increase the stock. As slugs are very fond of the young growths, they must be carefully looked for morning and evening, and a little soot or lime carefully spread round the plants may help to check them (see p. 142).

=CALOCHORTUS= (_Mariposa Lily_).--A very distinct group of Liliaceous plants with brown-coated bulbs, narrow leaves, and very showy and distinct-looking blossoms--some of which are shown in Plate 22, fig. 84, and also in Plate 20 of the companion volume "BEAUTIFUL GARDEN FLOWERS." Joined to the Mariposa Lilies proper are the "Star Tulips," formerly known under the name of _Cyclobothra_--well-known representatives of which are shown in the same Plate, figs. 85 and 86. They are quite distinct in the appearance of the flowers, but botanically they are considered to be identical in the important characters. Both groups are well worth growing in the milder parts of the kingdom in warm sunny parts of the garden. This is essential as most of them are natives of California, Oregon, Arizona, and parts of Mexico, where they have plenty of sunshine and are not subject to the cold drenching rains that often characterise the British winter. In colder districts where they would be unable to survive the ordinary winter, the plants may be brought to perfection in a cold frame so long as they are free from frost and heavy rains. The soil in which they appear to flourish best seems to be sharp sand, leaf-soil and road grit, well mixed together with a little loam added. The bed--in which the bulbs are to be planted 3 to 4 inches deep, from September to November, but not later--should be raised above the general level, the better to throw the water off in winter. If the beds or borders are facing south and slightly sloping, so much the better. A light covering with reeds or bracken is advisable during severe weather, but should be removed on all warm days, and altogether from February and March, as the young growths will then begin to push through the soil. After the flowering period--_i.e._, July and August--is over, and the foliage has withered, the bulbs may be either lifted and carefully stored in sand or dry earth until the planting season comes round again; or, better still, lights may be placed over them to keep the bulbs dry and allow them to ripen thoroughly and naturally. If the latter treatment is adopted the bulbs need not be disturbed for three or four years, and will give better blossom on the whole in consequence. It must be remembered that although the bulbs dislike moisture when dormant, they must have a sufficient supply during active growth, otherwise they may soon become parched and withered. The easiest way to increase the plants is by means of offsets. When seeds ripen they may be sown very thinly in pots or pans in spring, and the seedlings may remain for a couple of seasons before being transplanted. Sometimes "bulbils" (see p. 32) are produced on the stems, and may be sown in light sandy soil as if they were seeds. From seeds and bulbils it takes from three to six years to produce a flowering bulb.

There are now several kinds of Mariposa Lily in cultivation. Of these the varieties of the _venustus_ group are undoubtedly the handsomest. (See Plate 22, fig. 84.) They grow about 18 inches high, and have cup-shaped flowers 3 inches across, having three very large and three very small segments. The colour of the type is white, yellow at the base, deeply stained with crimson, and having a conspicuous blotch at the base. In the variety _alba_ the flowers are wholly white; _lilacinus_, deep lilac; _purpurascens_, lilac-purple; _citrinus_, lemon-yellow; _oculatus_, with rosy buds passing into white, with a deep blackish-purple blotch in the centre of a yellow base; and _Vesta_, flowers very large, white flushed with rose, and marked with brown and yellow at the base.

Other kinds are _albus_, with drooping pearly-white flowers (Plate 22, fig. 85); _apiculatus_, lemon-yellow; _Benthami_, bright yellow; _coeruleus_, lilac or creamy-white, densely bearded with blue hairs; _clavatus_, golden-yellow; _elegans_, white tinged with purple, but rich pink in the variety _amoenus_; _flavus_, yellow, drooping; _Goldyi_, old gold with hairy centre; _Howelli_, creamy-white; _Kennedyi_, orange-red; _lilacinus_, pink, purple, or lilac, a fine species; _luteus_, yellow or orange, with purple hairs; _Plummerae_, large soft lilac flowers, with golden-yellow hairs and blotched with purple; _pulchellus_, orange-yellow, sweet-scented, drooping (see Plate 22, fig. 86); _Purdyi_, white, spotted with purple, and covered with long white hairs; _splendens_ pale lilac, with silky white hairs and deep purple blotches at base; and _Weedi_, yellow.

=CAMASSIA.=--Graceful-looking North American plants of the Lily family, with rather large ovoid bulbs, strap-shaped tapering leaves, and loose racemes of starry blossoms which usually appear from May to July, and are useful for decorations when cut. They flourish in ordinary good and well-drained garden soil in warm sheltered spots. The bulbs should be planted in September or October, and covered with about twice their own depth of soil. They may be left undisturbed for a few seasons, but in that case a mulching of well-decayed manure in autumn would be beneficial. New plants are most readily secured by offsets from the old bulbs. Seeds, however, are freely produced in most places and should be sown in cold frames as soon as ripe. (See p. 36).

PLATE 16. MADONNA LILY (64) FRITILLARIA IMPERIALIS, VARS. (65-66)

There are only a few species, the best being _C. esculenta_, the Quamash or Camass Root of the North American Indians. The blue flowers, each about 2 inches across, are borne on scapes 1-1/2 to 3 feet high, and look very handsome above the narrow arching leaves. _C. Cusicksi_, with porcelain-blue flowers (see Plate 18, fig. 70), grows 3 to 4 feet high. _C. Fraseri_, with very pale-blue flowers, is about 1-1/2 feet high; while _C. Leichtlini_ grows 3 to 4 feet high, and has large creamy-white blossoms, about 3 inches in diameter.

=CHIONODOXA Luciliae= (_Glory of the Snow_).--This charming harbinger of spring is a native of Asia Minor, where it pushes its beautiful brilliant blue and white blossoms (see Plate 2, fig. 9) through the snow-clad mountains early in the year. It has ovoid bulbs about 1 to 2 inches deep, arching leaves, and each flower-stalk 6 to 10 inches high, carries from six to twenty blossoms in February, March, and April. There are several fine varieties, the best being _gigantea_ (or _grandiflora_), with very large flowers; _sardensis_, shown on Plate 13, fig. 53, has gentian-blue flowers. The variety _alba_ has pure-white flowers, and _Tmolusi_ and _Alleni_ are also good varieties. A hybrid between _C. Luciliae_ and _Scilla bifolia_ is known as _Chiono-scilla_, but is not common. Other Chionodoxas are _C. cretica_, with white or pale-blue flowers very scantily produced; and _C. nana_, with white or lilac-tinted flowers.

Chionodoxas flourish in ordinary good garden soil, and are suitable for the rockery, flower-border, beneath deciduous trees in shrubberies, or in the grass. To be effective in any of these positions they should be planted in hundreds and thousands, and in grass-land may be mixed with the smaller-flowered kinds of Narcissus (_e.g._, _minimus_, _cyclamineus_, _triandrus_). In the latter case the bulbs may be left alone for years with advantage, as they never interfere with mowing operations.

Offsets are freely produced from the old bulbs, and are the easiest means of increasing the stock. Seeds may be sown when ripe, but they take a few years to produce flowering bulbs (see p. 34).

=CHLOROGALUM pomeridianum= (_Soap Plant_).--A distinct looking plant about 2 feet high, with blue-green leaves and spikes of whitish purple-veined flowers, that usually open in the afternoon during the summer months. It flourishes in ordinary soil, and may be increased by offsets from the old bulbs. The best time to plant is in autumn.

=COLCHICUM= (_Meadow Saffron_).--In the autumn, when the landscape looks more or less dreary, the Colchicums relieve the monotony with their bright appearance. The bulbs are peculiarly one-sided, and differ a good deal in size according to the species, so that they should be planted at various depths according to size. The best time for planting is July, or not later than August, and if massed in bold patches in the grass, flower-border, shrubbery, or rock-garden, the effect later on will be much more effective than if the bulbs were put in sparingly. A rich sandy loam will suit most kinds, but any good and well-drained garden soil will give satisfactory results. It may be remarked that most kinds produce their flowers without the leaves. The latter appear the following spring to elaborate food for the new bulbs, dying down during the summer. Colchicums are best propagated by offsets. Seeds may also be sown about midsummer when thoroughly ripe, and will produce flowering bulbs in five or six years (see p. 34). There are many kinds, the most popular being: _C. autumnale_, a British plant, popularly known as the "Autumn Crocus"--owing to the shape and bright purple colour of its cup-shaped blossoms, which appear from the end of August to November. There are many varieties of it such as _album_, white; with a double form; _maximum_, purple; _purpureum_, purple rose; and _striatum_, red striped with white. _C. Bivonae_ has flowers chequered with white and purple. _C. Bornmuelleri_, a fine species with rosy-lilac flowers. _C. byzantinum_ has pale rose blossoms. _C. giganteum_, flowers rosy, very large. _C. libanoticum_, white. _C. montanum_ produces its lilac-purple or whitish flowers in February and March. _C. Parkinsoni_ has white flowers distinctly veined and chequered with violet-purple. The flowers of _C. speciosum_, shown in Plate 33, fig. 118, appear in September and October, and vary from reddish or rose-purple to deep crimson-purple. _C. variegatum_ (a very old species also called _Parkinsoni_) has its rosy flowers beautifully chequered with violet purple.

=CRINUM.=--Most of the Crinums require the protection of a greenhouse or hothouse in our climate. The kinds mentioned below, however, may be grown in the open air in the milder parts of the country. The large and broad strap-shaped leaves, 2 to 4 feet long, more or less gracefully recurving from the long-necked bulbs, are in themselves a noble sight, but their beauty is considerably enhanced when the large, funnel-shaped blossoms are borne in clusters on the top of a stout, fleshy stalk. Given a rich and well-drained, loamy soil, warm-sheltered spots, and sufficient moisture during active growth, and the hardy Crinums usually flourish. They may be increased by offsets taken from the base of the large old bulbs; or by means of the large fleshy bulb-like seeds that are produced in favourable seasons. The seed needs only to be placed on the top of moist soil in a pot, and under the shelter of a greenhouse or cold frame will soon germinate in its own peculiar way. The best-known hardy Crinums are _C. Moorei_, a native of South Africa. It has large long-necked bulbs, broad bright-green leaves 2 to 3 feet long, and clusters of soft-pink flowers, each 6 inches or more across, on a scape 2 to 3 feet high (see Plate 30, fig. 109). _C. Powelli_, with a reddish wash down the centre of the petals, and its pure white variety _album_ (Plate 32, fig. 115) are also two very fine plants for the out-door garden. They are really forms, or hybrids perhaps, of the South African _S. longifolium_ (or _C. capense_), which has large white flowers with a central reddish stain on the outside of the petals. It is quite as hardy as the other kinds and may be treated in the same way.

=CROCOSMA aurea.=--This beautiful Iridaceous plant is perhaps better known as _Tritonia aurea_. It is a native of South Africa, and has fibrous-coated corms, narrow sword-shaped leaves, and brilliant orange-red starry blossoms borne on branched stems about 2 feet high, in August or September. It likes a rich sandy loam and leaf-soil and soon makes fine clumps in the milder parts of the kingdom. In cold districts and the north generally, the corms may be lifted in October or November, when the leaves have withered, and may be stored in sand or soil until spring. Then they may be replanted, any offsets from the older corms being placed in separate beds and grown on until large enough for flowering. As a pot plant for greenhouse decoration, the Crocosma is most useful. After potting in spring, the pots may be plunged (_i.e._, sunk up to the rims) in ashes or fibre, and plenty of water should be given during the summer months when the growth is active. When the flower-spikes appear the plants may be taken into the greenhouse or conservatory.

PLATE 17. LILIUM CROCEUM (67) ALLIUM MOLY (68) SCILLA PERUVIANA ALBA (69)

=CROCUS.=--The popularity of the Crocus is undoubted, but popular favour generally confines itself to the white, blue, lilac, purple, yellow, and striped varieties of _C. aureus_, the Old Dutch yellow Crocus, and _C. vernus_. These all flower from February to April, and when planted in hundreds and thousands in the borders or grass-land they are then indeed a glorious sight, especially if naturalised with Snowdrops, Leucojums, and Bulbocodiums. The individual blossoms do not last long, but they are thrown up so profusely from the roundish corms beneath, that they give a continuous glow for several weeks in early spring. The above all flourish in light sandy loam and leaf-soil. To secure the best results the corms should be planted about 3 inches deep in September or October. When possible, as in grass-land for example, the plants should not be disturbed for a few seasons, so they may increase as Nature intended. In this way they will produce a more striking picture each succeeding year, especially if they have had the advantage of a top-dressing with well-decayed manure in autumn. When the corms have to be lifted each year to make way in the borders for summer-flowering plants, the best time to take them up is when the foliage has begun to wither. This process is often hastened by twisting the narrow leaves and tying them into little bundles.

Apart from the ordinary spring-flowering Crocuses, _aureus_ and _vernus_ (a selection of which can be obtained from any bulb catalogue), there are several natural species which also flower in spring, and may be planted and grown exactly in the same way. Amongst these the best known are _alatavicus_, white and yellow; _Balansae_, orange-yellow; _banaticus_, bright purple and white; _biflorus_, white to pale lavender, known as the "Cloth of Silver Crocus," of which there are many beautiful forms; _Biliotti_, purple; _carpetanus_, lilac to white; _chrysanthus_, orange-yellow, with several varieties; _dalmaticus_, lilac and yellow; _etruscus_, purple and yellow, striped; _Fleischeri_, white and yellow, veined purple; _Imperati_, lilac-purple, with deeper stripes; _Korolkowi_, yellow; _reticulatus_ or _variegatus_, white to deep lilac, veined purple; _stellaris_, orange; _suaveolens_, lilac and yellow, veined purple; _Susianus_ or _revolutus_, deep orange, known as the "Cloth of Gold Crocus"; _versicolor_, purple to white, veined purple; and _vitellinus_, orange.

=Autumn-Flowering Crocuses.=--Colchicums, and especially _C. autumnale_, are popularly known as "Autumn Crocuses." They belong, however, to the Lily family, and must not be confused with those species of Crocus proper which belong to the Iris family, and also flower during the autumn months, sometimes even as late as December, when the blossoms are often spoiled by the weather, unless protected with handlights or frames. At this period they are very useful, with the Colchicums and Sternbergias, for the decoration of grassy slopes and banks, and may be intermingled with them in places where they can remain undisturbed for some years.

The chief difference in the cultivation of Spring and Autumn Crocuses, is that the corms of the latter should be planted in July, or not later than August--in fact, at the same time as the Colchicums. The following are among the best Autumn Crocuses:--_Asturicus_, violet, purple; _Boryi_, white and yellow; _cancellatus_, white to purple, and lilac; _caspius_, white tinted rose; _Clusi_, pale purple and white; _hadriaticus_, white and purple; _iridiflorus_ or _byzantinus_, purple, lilac; _Karduchorum_, lilac, veined with purple; _longiflorus_, lilac, yellow, sweet-scented; _medius_, purple, veined, see Plate 33, fig. 117; _ochroleucus_, creamy-white, orange, see Plate 33, fig. 121; _pulchellus_, lavender-blue and yellow, veined; _Salzmanni_, lilac to white, veined; _sativus_, lilac, veined purple; the well-known "Saffron Crocus" of commerce, with several varieties; _Scharojani_, orange-yellow; _speciosus_, lilac, purple, with deeper veins, see Plate 33, fig. 122; and _zonatus_, rosy-lilac, veined purple.

All Crocuses may be easily increased by offsets, which may be detached when the corms are lifted. Seeds take about three years to produce flowering corms (see p. 34).

=DIERAMA= (=Sparaxis=) =pulcherrima.=--This is a charming South African plant with fibrous-coated corms, and long narrow sword-like leaves. It has beautiful funnel-shaped flowers, which droop from thread-like stalks about September and October, a period when they are sometimes injured by the bad weather. The blossoms, which are shown on Plate 31, fig. 112, are usually crimson in colour, but there also exist white, pale-red, and prettily-striped forms, all borne on stalks 3 to 6 feet high, and beautiful for cutting purposes. _D. pendula_, with deeply veined lilac flowers, is another species not so well known.

The plants cannot be considered hardy, except in the milder parts of the kingdom. In less favoured spots they may be planted in spring in warm sunny spots sheltered from cold winds, and if left in the ground in winter should be protected from cold rains and frosts with litter, bracken, lights, &c. A light sandy loam, with a little leaf-soil, will suit the plants best, and they may be increased by offsets.

=ERYTHRONIUM= (_Dog's Tooth Violet_).--These pretty plants of the Lily order have more or less oblong or cylindrical bulbs, sometimes with creeping rhizomes, and leaves more or less marbled or blotched or sometimes green. The 6-petalled blossoms are, more or less, drooping, but are usually conspicuous above the foliage and render the plants very attractive either in the rock-garden, flower-border, or grass-land. The plants like a moist sandy loam and leaf-soil, which, however, must be well drained so that the bulbs may not decay with the winter rains. Offsets are the easiest means of increasing the stock, and are best taken off after the flowers are over and the leaves have withered, _i.e._, about midsummer.

PLATE 18. CAMASSIA CUSICKI (70) LILIUM PYRENAICUM (71) ALLIUM ERDELII (72) IXIOLIRION PALLASI (73)

The Common Dog's Tooth Violet (_E. Dens-Canis_) is an old-world plant, and has been in cultivation many years. It has blue-green leaves, marbled with dull purple, and the flowers are of a soft rose or purple hue, although there are various shades (as shown on Plate 13, fig. 54), including a white one. There are now many other species and varieties in cultivation--all natives of temperate North America, and well worthy of a place in the garden. They all blossom from March to May, and vary in height from 3 to 12 inches. The following are the best known at present:--_Albidum_, white, tinged yellow, or wholly yellow in the variety _bracteatum_; _americanum_, golden yellow, tinged purple; _citrinum_, lemon yellow; _Dens-Canis_ (see Plate 13, figs. 54 and 55); _giganteum_, white, suffused with orange or yellow; _grandiflorum_, yellow; _Hartwegi_, creamy-white and orange; _Hendersoni_, rose to purple with yellow centre; _Howelli_, yellow and orange; _Johnstoni_, rosy-pink (see Plate 12, fig. 94); _montanum_, creamy-white; _propullans_, rose-purple; _purpurascens_, pale yellow tinged purple, or lilac in the variety _grandiflorum_; this species has sometimes about a dozen flowers on a scape; and _revolutum_, pink to rosy-purple, or white with a yellow centre in the variety _Bolanderi_ or _Smithi_.

=EUCOMIS punctata.=--This bold-looking plant is probably the best and most ornamental member of the genus. It has very large bulbs and tufts of gracefully spreading and recurved wavy leaves, bright shining green above, and densely spotted with purple beneath. The creamy-white or yellowish starry blossoms, with a conspicuous violet ovary in the centre, appear from July to September, and are packed close together on a stout purple spotted scape 1-1/2 to 2 feet high. Other species are _bicolor_, with unspotted leaves and greenish-yellow flowers; _nana_, which grows only about 9 inches high, has brownish-green blossoms; _undulata_, greenish-yellow ones; _regia_, white; and _pallidiflora_, with leaves over 2 feet long, and 4 inches or more broad, has greenish-white flowers.

They are all natives of South Africa, and may be grown in warm sheltered spots in the milder parts of the country. They like a rich and well-drained sandy loam, and if left undisturbed for a few years, will probably require protection in bleak localities from winter rains and frost. They may be increased by offsets. It takes four or five years to secure flowering bulbs from seeds.

=FERRARIA undulata.=--A distinct looking Iridaceous plant with tunicated bulbs, sword-like wavy leaves, and peculiar dull-purple flowers, each with six wavy segments spotted with purple, and appearing in March and April. This plant flourishes in well-drained sandy loam and leaf-soil, and may be considered fairly hardy in the milder parts of the kingdom. Increased by offsets.

=FRITILLARIA.=--There are fifty species or more belonging to this genus, but many of them, although highly interesting, are so dull in colour or small in blossom, that they are only likely to be met with in botanical collections. The common Crown Imperial (_F. imperialis_), shown in Plate 16, figs. 65 and 66, with its sturdy stems, 2 to 3 feet high, bright green wavy leaves, and bright yellow drooping blossoms, is probably the best known; but there are many forms of it in which the flowers vary in colour from yellow to orange and bright red. The Snake's Head (_F. Meleagris_) is another well-known species to be seen growing naturally in moist meadows in parts of England. Its beautiful white, rosy or purple blossoms (see Plate 8, fig. 33) droop from the stalks, 1 to 1-1/2 feet high in April and May, and are beautifully chequered with deeper coloured bands. For naturalising in the grass with Narcissi, Dog's Tooth Violets, &c., this is a very valuable plant. _F. Moggridgei_, a dwarf form of the purple, brown, and yellow _delphinensis_, is another good garden plant shown on Plate 8, fig. 31. The following kinds may be used for naturalising in the grass or for grouping in nooks of the rock-garden:--_Fusco-lutea_, _aurea_, _citrina_, _lusitanica_, _lutea_, _askabadensis_ (finely figured in "FLORA AND SYLVA,") _discolor_, _pallidiflora_, _pudica_, _Thunbergi_, _Whittalli_, all with yellow or greenish-yellow blossoms, and ranging from 6 to 12 inches high. To these may be added _F. recurva_ (Plate 8, fig. 34), a Californian species, about 1 foot high, and remarkable for its drooping bright orange-scarlet blossoms, the interior of which is yellow blotched with purple. _F. camtschatcensis_, the "Black Lily," has deep blackish-red flowers. It flourishes in moist sandy loam and peat.

_F. Walujewi_, with narrow tendril-tipped leaves, has silver-grey flowers suffused with purple brown, and spotted with red and white within (see Plate 8, fig. 32). To these may be added _armena_, dark purple; _Elwesi_, green and purple; _pyrenaica_, green and purple, spotted; _persica_ or _libanotica_, chocolate, purple and green; _latifolia_, purple, lilac, yellow, &c.

The Fritillarias have bulbs of various sizes, and many of them--notably those of _F. imperialis_--emit a very strong and disagreeable odour. They produce offsets freely in most cases, and in this way the stock may be increased. The best time for lifting and transplanting the bulbs is after the foliage has withered.

PLATE 19. ORNITHOGALUM PYRAMIDALE (74) BREVOORTIA IDA-MAIA (75) BRODIAEA LAXA (76) BRODIAEA IXIOIDES (77)

=GAGEA lutea.=--This British plant, with small roundish bulbs, and long narrow leaves, is called the "Yellow Star of Bethlehem" on account of its yellow starry flowers, with a green central line, appearing from March to May on stalks about 6 inches high. It grows in ordinary garden soil and may be increased by offsets.

=GALANTHUS= (_Snowdrop_).--The common British Snowdrop (_G. nivalis_) is an old time garden favourite, not only on account of the purity of its blossoms--almost rivalling the whiteness of the snow--but because they appear during the very dullest months of the year, often before Christmas, and lasting till the Crocuses, early Narcissi, Chionodoxas, Bulbocodiums, Leucojums, &c., come to keep them company. A few blooms are shown on Plate 2, fig. 8, not because it was necessary to tell the reader what a Snowdrop was like, but to record the general appearance of other Snowdrops that are now to be met with in cultivation. The most important of these are _Elwesi_, with its varieties _globosus_ and _robustus_, all of which have large flowers; _Fosteri_ has been called the "King of Snowdrops" on account of its fine leaves and flowers. Other fine kinds are _Imperati_, _latifolius_, and _plicatus_, the last named recognised by its long broad and plaited leaves. Indeed there are many other varieties--including double-flowered ones--but it is doubtful if the ordinary observer would see any great difference between them and the best forms of the common Snowdrop. They all have roundish bulbs--some larger than others, and offsets are freely produced from them. They flourish in the border or rock-garden in rich sandy soil and leaf-mould, but their natural dwelling place is in the grass, where they should be planted in hundreds and thousands and left to take care of themselves, as they are in many gardens in the kingdom.

=GALTONIA= (=Hyacinthus=) =candicans.=--A noble-looking South African plant, with large roundish bulbs and strap-shaped leaves over 2 feet long. The pure white sweet-scented blossoms (shown on Plate 20, fig. 78) appear during the summer months, 20 or 30 in a raceme, drooping from stout stalks about 4 feet high. =G. princeps= is somewhat similar but not so attractive in appearance, as its white flowers are faintly tinged with green. Both kinds flourish in good garden soil and should be planted in bold clumps for effect in the flower border, and in warm sunny spots, where they may remain undisturbed for several years, until it is necessary to give them more space, or to detach the offsets for increasing the stock.

=GLADIOLUS= (_Corn Flag_; _Sword Lily_).--There are several species of Gladiolus rarely seen outside botanic gardens. The florists' varieties, like _brenchleyensis_, _Colvillei_, _Childsi_, _gandavensis_, _Lemoinei_, and _nanceianus_, are much more popular owing to the brilliancy and beauty of their blossoms. _G. brenchleyensis_ (practically a form of _gandavensis_) is remarkable for its glowing scarlet flowers; _G. Childsi_ (raised from _gandavensis_ and _Saundersi_) attains a height of four or five feet, and has spikes of bloom often 2 feet or more long. The blossoms are 6 to 9 inches across, and possess many shades of purple, scarlet, crimson, salmon, white, pink, yellow, often beautifully mottled and blotched in the throat (Plate 28, fig. 105). _G. Colvillei_ (raised from _cardinalis_ and _tristis_) is an early-flowering plant about 2 feet high, with crimson purple and also pure white flowers--according to the variety. The form known as "The Bride" is the best white (Plate 21, fig. 81). Other early-flowering forms are shown in figs. 82 and 83. _G. gandavensis_ (raised from _cardinalis_ and _psittacinus_) forms a charming group as various in colour as the _Childsi_ forms, the individual flowers being variously striped and blotched with distinct colours. _G. Lemoinei_ (raised from _purpureo-auratus_ and _gandavensis_) is the origin of a beautiful number of hybrids, distinguished by having a large golden-yellow blotch on the lower segments, bordered with scarlet, crimson, purple, maroon, &c. (Plate 28, fig. 104). The colours are as numerous and as delicate as in the _Childsi_ and _gandavensis_ sections. The _nanceianus_ hybrids are remarkably fine plants, and are only comparable with those of the _Childsi_ group, although the blossoms are not quite so large. The colours vary from purple, claret, violet, carmine, orange, red, scarlet, violet, &c., and are all spotted in various ways (see Plate 28, fig. 103).

The kinds of Gladioli just mentioned may be grown to perfection in a well-drained loamy soil, which has been deeply dug and well manured the autumn previous to planting. From the beginning to the end of March is an excellent time to plant the corms or tubers, each one being inserted in a hole made with a stout dibber, or in a drill about 4 or 5 inches deep, and about a foot apart. Having covered the corms and made the soil fairly firm, little more is needed beyond keeping weeds down, until the flower spikes begin to show in July and August. Short stakes may then be supplied so as to keep the trusses upright. To secure extra fine blossoms the plants, when well-established, should be watered two or three times a week with liquid cow-manure to which a little soot and guano has been added. During hot dry summers especially, copious waterings should be given.

PLATE 20. GALTONIA CANDICANS (78) SISYRINCHIUM GRANDIFLORUM (79) BRODIAEA HOWELLI LILACINA (80)

When the flowers have faded, and the leaves begin to turn yellow, the corms may be taken up and carefully stored in a dry, airy, frost-proof place until the following March. New plants may be raised from the offsets, and also the spawn or cloves to be found at the base of the new corms. They should be detached and stored, and the following April may be sown like seeds in drills about two inches deep. The larger corms may also be carefully cut in two at planting time, the cut surfaces being dipped in powdered charcoal, soot, or freshly-slaked lime.

Where space will permit, the following natural species of Gladioli may also be grown:--_G. blandus_, 1 to 2 feet high, white, with red markings and a yellow tube; _G. byzantinus_, 2 feet, red, shaded with violet or purple; _G. dracocephalus_, 1 to 2-1/2 feet, soft yellow, striped and spotted with purple; _G. floribundus_, 1 foot, has flowers varying from white to flesh colour and deep red.

_G. oppositiflorus_ has white flowers, washed with rose or purple (Plate 23, fig. 87); _G. psittacinus_, 3 feet, rich scarlet, lined and spotted with yellow; _G. purpureo-auratus_, 3 to 4 feet, sulphur yellow, blotched with purple; and _G. Saundersi_, 2 to 3 feet, crimson or soft scarlet, spotted with pink and white. As they are all natives of South Africa they should be planted in warm sunny spots in March or April, and lifted the following autumn when growth has ceased.

=HABRANTHUS pratensis.=--A pretty Chilian plant, with ovoid bulbs about 1-1/2 inches through, and narrow leaves 1 to 1-1/2 feet long. The funnel-shaped, orange-red or scarlet blossoms appear in early summer on stems 1 to 2 feet high. Rich sandy-loam and leaf-soil, and warm sheltered spots are most suitable for this plant. In bleak localities the bulbs must be protected in winter. Increased by offsets.

=HYACINTHUS= (_Hyacinth_).--The florists' Hyacinth, evolved from _H. orientalis_, has been for generations a great garden favourite, and is still amongst the most popular of bulbous plants for the decoration of the out-door garden, or for growing in conservatories, or the dwelling-house in more or less ornamental receptacles. There is a good deal of difference in the size of Hyacinth bulbs, but the reader must not imagine that the largest bulbs will throw up the best truss of flowers. Indeed it is often the case that quite a small bulb comparatively, will give a finer display than one much larger. Size, therefore, is not the main point about Hyacinth bulbs. Weight or density is the most important feature, and bulbs that are in any way soft or flabby may be regarded as useless.

=Hyacinths in the Open Air.=--What are known as "Bedding Hyacinths," to be had in various colours--red, rose, pink, white, blue, violet and yellow--are generally grown out of doors. They should be planted in October, or not later than November, 5 to 6 inches deep, and 6 to 8 inches apart, care being taken when planting round, oval, oblong, or other shaped beds to keep the lines or curves equidistant so as to secure uniformity in the results. The varieties should not be mixed when formal beds are planted. In vacant spaces in the flower border, however, mixed Hyacinths look very well. Although these Hyacinths will grow well in ordinary good garden soil that has been deeply dug, and contains some well-decayed manure, it may be said that a light sandy loam that has had some old cow-manure incorporated with it some weeks previously is regarded as the best. When the soil is naturally heavy it must be well turned up, and have plenty of sand or grit mixed with it as well as old manure. In such a soil, a further precaution may be taken to have a handful of sand placed in the hole under each bulb to further improve the drainage.

Combinations with out-door Hyacinths are sometimes made by covering the surface of the beds with such plants as Forget-me-Nots, Polyanthuses or Primroses, Silenes, White Arabis, Yellow Alyssum, and sometimes Narcissi bulbs are planted alternately with the Hyacinths, the object in all cases being to produce a fine effect and contrast in colours in spring. When the plants are in bloom they require but little attention, except perhaps a slender stick here and there to some flower-truss that has been blown down by the wind, or topples over with its own weight. As soon as the blossoms have withered, the flower stems should be cut away, leaving the still green leaves to assimilate food until they begin to turn yellow. The yellowing leaves indicate that the bulbs may be taken up, dried, and cleaned, and stored away in cool airy places until the following September or October. As Hyacinths, however, deteriorate in our fickle climate, it is better to buy new bulbs each year for planting formal beds, while the old ones may be planted in ordinary flower border or shrubbery.

PLATE 21. EARLY-FLOWERING GLADIOLI (81-83)

=Hyacinths in Glasses, &c.=--Ornamental bowls, glasses, vases, &c., of various designs afford an easy and interesting means for growing Hyacinths in the dwelling house. Many fail to have good results with Hyacinths grown in these receptacles because they allow the bulbs to touch the water, or they place them in too high a temperature to begin with. The bulbs should not actually touch the water, the base being little more than 1/8-inch away from the surface. They should then be stood in a dark place with a temperature of about 40 deg. to 45 deg. F., until roots have developed into the water. The plants may then be exposed to more light, after which all that is necessary is to change the water occasionally, about once a week, so that the roots may secure a fresh supply of oxygen. The finest bulbs give the best results naturally when grown in this way. What are known as "Miniature Hyacinths" are suitable for growing in bowls, vases, &c., in moist moss and charcoal, or in Jadoo fibre, or even in coco-nut fibre. Indeed, Hyacinths generally may be grown more easily, perhaps, in this way, instead of in water, the only point to bear in mind being to get the roots started in a cool place before the flower-stem and leaves begin to grow.

=Hyacinths in Pots.=--For greenhouse and conservatory decoration Hyacinths are most useful. One large bulb or three smaller ones may be placed in a 5-inch pot in light sandy soil, the top of the bulbs being well above the surface. The pots should be placed in the open air and covered with fine ashes or coco-nut fibre. Roots soon develop, after which the bulbs may be brought in as required, and can be had in blossom long before those in the open ground begin to appear. In warm greenhouses the graceful Roman and Italian Hyacinths may be flowered in the same way.

For a selection of Hyacinths of various colours the reader will find it best to consult a good bulb catalogue or a nurseryman. Plate 11 shows a few varieties, but the size of the page renders it impossible to show them in all their natural grandeur.

Besides the florist's Hyacinths there are one or two natural species that are worth growing in the rockery, flower border, or in the grass. These are the Spanish Hyacinth (_H. amethystinus_), with bright blue drooping blossoms, or white in the variety _albus_, in May and June (see Plate 7, fig. 30). The other is _H. azureus_, which very much resembles one of the Muscaris, and sends up its sky-blue drooping flowers as early as February (see Plate 2, fig. 10).

Hyacinths may be increased by offsets. These may be stored in dry sand until planting time in the autumn, when they should be placed in beds by themselves, and will reach the flowering stage, with care, in two or three seasons. Full-sized bulbs are induced to develop bulblets by cutting them cross-wise, about half-way through from the base, or scooping the bottom out into a hollow. The bulbs are placed to dry after cutting, and by and bye the bulblets appear. They may be detached and planted like the offsets.