Chapter I: Front Matter

BEGGARS ON HORSEBACK

A RIDING TOUR IN NORTH WALES

BY

MARTIN ROSS

AND

E. Œ. SOMERVILLE

AUTHORS OF ‘AN IRISH COUSIN,’ ‘THROUGH CONNEMARA,’
‘THE REAL CHARLOTTE,’ ETC. ETC.

_WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS
BY E. Œ. SOMERVILLE_

WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS
EDINBURGH AND LONDON
MDCCCXCV

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

SHE SAT ON THE TOP OF AN “EMPRESS” COTTAGE STOVE 4

THE OBLIGING IRONMONGER 5

“HE ISS A LITTLE UNUSED TO THE TOWN, MARM” 14

PACKING THE “HOLD-ALLS” 21

THE FAT OSTLER BOY 27

THE FIRST FLIES 30

NEXT MORNING MISS O’FLANNIGAN WENT OUT SKETCHING 33

“A YOUTH OF SHOP-WALKER BEAUTY, IN THE GUISE OF A FISHERMAN” 43

“WE CAUGHT A GLIMPSE OF A GREY BEARD AND A TYROLEAN HAT” 45

A DARK-FACED KELT 47

“MISS O’FLANNIGAN’S HAIR CAME DOWN” 51

HE WAS DRAGGED BY MISS O’FLANNIGAN DOWN THE IMMEASURABLE LENGTHS OF STEEP ROAD 57

THE SEXTONESS OF DOLGELLY 67

THE TOURIST AT THE GRAPES INN, MAENTYWROG 75

BETWEEN TRAWSFYNYDD AND MAENTYWROG 77

MISS O’FLANNIGAN MADE A SKETCH FROM TOM’S BACK 79

“LUNE DE MIEL” BEDDGELERT 85

THE SNOWDON GUIDE OUTSIDE THE PARLOUR WINDOW 91

HALF-WAY MISS O’FLANNIGAN EXTENDED HERSELF AT FULL LENGTH ON SOME CONTIGUOUS BOULDERS 99

THE ASCENT OF SNOWDON 105

“THE SPEAKER PERMITTED TO HIMSELF A DRAMATIC YAWN” 111

“A COSTUME MODELLED ON THAT OF THE MOST SUMPTUOUS TOURIST” 122

THE COOK AT RHYDDU 124

THE ASCENT OF THE DEANS 132

“TWO OR THREE STARTLED, AUDACIOUS PONY FACES PEERING ROUND A PILE OF BOULDERS” 133

“WE RETIRED INTO THE RAIN” 142

“I CLUTCHED THE SURFACE OF THE ROAD” 149

“THE PARAPET OF THE WOODED PRECIPICE, FROM WHOSE EDGE WE WERE LOOKING BACK” 157

“THREE TALL WOMEN, DRESSED ALIKE IN WIDOWS’ WEEDS” 162

A FINAL SALUTE 183

VISITORS’ BOOK 186