Chapter D: A Clipping File

Between two separate covers several envelopes--say five--are to be fastened and used for holding clippings, etc. Select the envelopes--3½ by 9 inches is a convenient size. Plan covers to be about one-eighth of an inch longer on each end than the envelopes and seven-eighths of an inch wider. This allows three-quarters of an inch for the guard and also a projection of one-eighth of an inch on the opposite side. Strips of vellum should be planned to cover completely both sides of the hinge, to lap over onto the large piece about one inch both outside and in, and to extend beyond each end about one-half inch. To cover the rest of the newsboard, cover paper should be used and the pieces should lap over the vellum about three-quarters of an inch on the side next to the hinge and fold over the other edges about one-half an inch. The lining paper should cover to within one-eighth of an inch of the edges of the large pieces of newsboard. Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces and lay out and cut all parts.

Draw a line through the center of the vellum showing where the back edge of the small piece of newsboard should come. Lay main part one-eighth of an inch from this line and draw around the edges of both pieces except where the large piece projects beyond the vellum (see Plate XXVIII). Apply paste to vellum, lay pieces of newsboard in place, turn it over and rub down. Cut from the projecting vellum a small piece even with the ends of the hinges as far as the outside corners. Apply paste first to projecting ends, then to long strip; fold over and rub down.

Properly place cover on cover paper and draw around it. Apply paste to cover paper and finish as when vellum is used for entire cover. Paste in the lining paper and dry under weight.

Strips of vellum about 2½ inches wide and one inch longer than the envelopes should be folded lengthwise down the middle to form guards. Cut strips of newsboard three-quarters of an inch wide, and of the same length as the envelope. Apply paste to half the vellum and lay the newsboard on it with one edge against the center fold. Against the other edge of the newsboard lay the lower edge of the envelope with its ends and the ends of the newsboard in the same straight lines. Treat the ends of vellum in the same manner as on the covers. Punch holes in covers and guards, insert eyelets, and fasten together by tying, or with paper fasteners.

Problem IX

BOXES

TIME: 6 hours.

MATERIALS: Newsboard, stay-tape or vellum, and a thin paper.

First determine the size of the box, which should be made for a definite purpose. Consider the proportions of the width, length, and height; also the height of the sides of the cover.

A box consists of foundations of newsboard, the edges of which are stayed with strips of tape or vellum, and the outside covered with paper. The cover should be larger than the bottom by ⅛ inch in both directions to allow it to slip over the box. This amount will vary somewhat with the thickness of the newsboard, the paper with which it is covered, and the skill of the worker.

The foundation for each part is to be developed from a single piece of newsboard. The box and cover are to be covered with a thin paper. A great variety of paper for this purpose may be purchased, either figured or in plain colors.

For the box plan a strip of paper long enough to extend around the four sides and to provide for a lap where the ends join. Be generous with this lap, as it will be found that the paper “takes up” when it is pasted on. The width of the strip should be at least one inch more than the depth of the box. For the cover, plan covering paper like the newsboard development, but with its sides ½ inch or more wider to fold over the edges. Let the corner squares serve as laps. Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces and lay out and cut all parts. (See Plate XXIX.)

Along folding lines of the foundations score deeply with a knife, one blade of the scissors, or with a pin, and fold with the crease on the outside. It is essential to the success of the box to have this crease on the outside to insure a sharp, straight, and strong edge, which might otherwise be rounded, irregular, and weak.

Fasten the corners of both box and cover together with pieces of tape or strips of vellum, lapping onto the sides. (See Plate XXX.) If possible, allow the corners to dry before proceeding further.

Paste the strip of paper around the box, allowing ½ inch to project beyond both top and bottom edges. Rub down well. Make a vertical cut at each corner of upper projection and fold and paste laps down on the inside. (See Plate XXXI.)

Make a V-cut at each corner of the lower projection, fold and paste the laps against the bottom. (See Plate XXXII.) It will probably be necessary to apply more paste before finally rubbing these laps down.

Paste top of cover to the paper, leaving equal margins on all sides. From the two long edges make cuts to the corners of the newsboard foundation at right angles to its edges. Fold and paste paper over the ends of cover first, and then onto the inside, using the thumb to push the paper over the edges. (See Plate XXXI.) The cuts made from the long edges give an extra length to end coverings. Paste this extra piece onto long sides and then paste the part naturally to be used to cover these sides. The appearance of the box will be greatly improved by running the thumb and finger along the folded edges of the cover to sharpen them.

In this manner, boxes of any size may be made. Small boxes may be covered with linen, cretonne, or other kinds of cloth. In this case it may be better (after making the foundations as already described) to paste the covering to the inside of the foundation only, otherwise the surface might be discolored by the paste oozing through the cloth.

A box with a glass top is sometimes desirable for holding specimens of various kinds. Such a box may be made as above described with the following changes: If it is to be a sealed box the specimens should be properly placed in the box and the glass (which should be as large as the outside measurement of the box to prevent its dropping in) laid over the top before pasting down that part of the covering which projects above the box itself. When properly arranged this should then be pasted to the glass exactly as the laps are pasted to the bottom of the box.

If a removable cover is desired, cut strips of newsboard for the sides and a strip of material for covering them in the same manner that the box is covered. After staying the corners with vellum, paste on the strip of covering material; one edge of this should lap over the newsboard and be pasted to the inside of the cover and the other should hold the glass in position after it has been placed on the newsboard.

Problem X

POSTCARD HOLDER

TIME: 8 hours.

MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum, and lining paper.

Before beginning this holder, it may be well to have collections made of cards relating to a definite subject. Interest in the study of various industries, history, and geography is greatly increased by the use of pictures, and in many places sets of cards prepared for such a purpose may be purchased.

This holder consists of an outside case into which the inner holder slips. (See Plate XXXIV.) The size of the faces may be determined by individual pupils, but, if the blocks to be described later are used, it will be quite essential to have a uniform size so that the blocks may be used interchangeably among the pupils. For this reason, it is recommended that the broad faces of the outside be about one inch larger in each direction than a postcard, and the narrow faces 1¼” wide.

Plan the foundation of a single piece of newsboard, as wide as the outside length of the holder, scored to divide it into the four faces above referred to, and a fifth division the exact size of one narrow face. Arrange these faces to be joined at their long edges with a narrow face on each end of the strip of newsboard so that when folded together one narrow face will be double, which gives greater stability to the shape of the holder. Plan a strip of vellum 2 inches wider than the length of the case, and long enough to extend around it, allowing for a lap at one corner. It will be found in putting on this vellum that it will require a piece longer than the sum of the width of the faces as, however closely it may be put on, it “takes up” at the corners. Therefore be generous with the lap as a little extra length does no harm.

For the inner holder plan a strip of newsboard ⅛” narrower than the case, scored to divide it into five parts. Two parts are to be of the same length as the case, alternating with two narrow faces ⅛” less than thickness of the case (that they may fit inside) and the fifth piece about one-half the length of the long faces.

Plan two strips of vellum to cover the narrow faces, and lap onto the adjoining faces about 1”. Allow ½” at each end to turn over the edges. For each of the three broad faces, plan a covering of lining paper which shall allow an edge of vellum to show at the joints, and shall lap over the other edges of the newsboard. Notice that these three pieces are of three different sizes.

Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces (See Plate XXXV) and lay out and cut all parts. Along the folding lines of both newsboard foundations, score and fold as explained in connection with the box.

When pasting the vellum onto the outside case, it will be found of great advantage to have blocks of wood to work around. If there is a woodworking room in connection with the school, these blocks may well be made there. They should be at least the full length of the case and may project beyond the ends. Their thickness should be the width of the narrow faces, and their width may be the same as that of the broad faces, or narrower. If narrower, the blocks may be slipped along as the vellum is being rubbed down.

The strip of vellum for covering the outside is so large that it is difficult for a child to cover it with paste, before a part of it has dried. It is better, therefore, to paste a little more than enough for one face at a time, rub this down, apply paste again, and so on to the end. By putting the paste a little beyond were it is needed there is a certainty of leaving no dry areas at the corners.

If blocks are to be used, paste together the two end divisions of the newsboard, put the block inside, and paste on the strip of vellum. Place one end of the vellum flush with one edge of the case, and cover one broad face first. (See Plate XXXVI.) Before rubbing down the vellum on the next face, be sure that it is pulled as closely as possible over the edge, leaving no wrinkles or loose places. When all the faces have been covered, there should remain a margin of vellum to lap onto the face first covered. If this is pasted down very closely, it will be almost invisible.

If no blocks are available, three faces should be covered before joining the two end pieces of newsboard, which should then be covered as one piece. Lay each face as it is being pasted so that one edge is at the edge of the desk or table, and allow the rest of the case to hang over the side. (See Plate XXXVII.) In this way the faces may be easily covered. Next make a longitudinal cut on the projecting vellum as far as the newsboard at each corner of the case. The resulting laps may then be easily pasted down onto the inside of the case.

Over the narrow faces of the inner holder paste the strips of vellum, cut for this purpose. Paste and fold their ends over the edges of the newsboard. These ends fit a little better if two slits are made in each at the fold of the newsboard. Cover the broad faces with the lining paper, turning and pasting the laps over the edges closely. The corners should be cut as in the flat objects described in previous articles. This inner part should not be pressed as a flat piece as this would cause the paper to crack open when folded for use.

If desired, the inside may be lined with white paper, in which case the pieces should be put in separately instead of in one long strip. This is difficult for any but most skillful workers.

B. A holder of similar construction, but of convenient size to hold note or letter paper makes an excellent filing case.

Problem XI

SLIP BOX[4]

TIME: 6 hours.

MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum, thin paper.

This box (Plate XXXVIII) by varying the size may be used for holding pencils, checkers, a picture puzzle, or for other purposes.

Accurately lay out the box on the newsboard as shown in the drawing and cut on the outside lines, preferably with the cardboard cutter. Along the edges of the base score with a sharp knife or strong pin and turn up the sides with the lines outside. The corners should be stayed with a strip of vellum as shown to hold the box in shape.

Cut a strip of lining or other thin paper long enough to extend around the box and lap over about ½ inch; the width should be at least one inch greater than height of sides. Paste this strip to the sides of the box allowing surplus width to extend equally above and below.

At each corner of the box make cuts in the paper so that it may be pasted to the inside of the box at one edge and to the bottom of the box at the other. It is advised that no attempt be made to line either the inside or the base. The case should be enough larger than the box to allow the latter to slip easily but not fall out. By making each side of the case ⅛ of an inch wider than the corresponding sides of the box, this is accomplished. It will be noticed that three narrow faces are shown in the drawing. Lap the broader outside face B over the narrower one A and paste securely. This gives stability to the outside.

Cut a strip of vellum long enough to paste around the box and extend beyond it at least ½ inch at each end. Paste this to the foundation; at each corner make cuts in the vellum, and paste projecting parts to the inside of the foundation.

[4] From “War Time Occupations.”

Problem XII

A PORTFOLIO

TIME: 6 hours.

MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum, cover paper, lining paper, tape.

(A). This portfolio consists of two foundation pieces of newsboard, covered and lined with paper and joined by a back of vellum. Let the size and shape of these covers be determined by the use to which they are to be put. They may be for drawings, maps, compositions, etc. The size of the newsboard will practically be the size of the finished portfolio, and should be somewhat larger than the papers it is to hold.

Plan the back, which consists of two pieces of vellum, wide enough to allow for the space desired between the covers, and also to lap onto each cover at least one inch. One piece of vellum should be long enough to lap over the ends of the newsboard about ½ an inch, and the other piece should be about ⅛ of an inch shorter than the newsboard.

Plan the cover paper to be large enough to allow for ½ inch lap to fold over the three free edges, but remember to allow a margin of vellum to show at the other edge. Plan the lining paper to be small enough to allow the foundation to extend beyond it at least ⅛ of an inch on all sides.

Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces and lay out and cut all parts. (See Plate XXXIX.) Place the newsboard foundations on the short piece of vellum the proper distance apart, with equal amounts of vellum extending under each. The newsboard, of course, will extend at each end a trifle beyond the vellum. When the proper position is determined, draw pencil lines lengthwise of the vellum indicating the edge of each cover. Put paste on the vellum and rub down well onto the newsboard forming the inside of the hinge. To make sure that the upper and lower edges of the covers are in a continuous straight line, place a rule or straight edge against one cover, extending across and beyond the vellum; place the second cover against the rule and the edges will be in a straight line. (See Plate XL.) Paste the second piece of vellum onto the outside and turn the projecting ends over the newsboard, pasting them down.

Properly place one foundation piece on the cover paper, allowing the vellum to show where it laps onto the newsboard, and draw around it. The amount of vellum which is to show is a problem in space division. Just how much will look well on the particular cover under consideration should be carefully thought out.

Apply paste to the cover paper, noting that it requires more skill to spread paste uniformly on a heavy paper than on vellum or lining paper. Place one piece of newsboard on the paper as previously marked, turn them over and rub down. A piece of cloth held in the hand and used for rubbing the surface prevents finger marks; or the rubbing may be done on a piece of paper laid over the surface. The cover paper should cling firmly to the foundation at every point and this should be assured before proceeding. Apply paste to the projecting laps, fold them over and rub down. Treat the other half in the same manner.

It is desirable to tie the portfolio together on one side at least. For this purpose secure tape of harmonizing color and ⅜ or ½ inch in width. About ½ an inch from and parallel to the front edges cut a slit through both paper and newsboard of the same length as the width of the tape. (This needs to be done with a knife or, better yet, with a chisel.) Insert a piece of tape from 6 to 9 inches long in each slit and securely paste at least 1 inch to the inside of the newsboard, allowing the greater length to project from the outside. Paste the lining paper on the inside of each half and this will cover the pasted end of the tape. The portfolio is then complete.

(B). By a different arrangement of tape the same kind of portfolio may be used as a magazine holder or cover for a paper book or pamphlet. Plan the newsboard foundations to project ⅛ of an inch beyond the book on three sides. The space between the two pieces of newsboard should be at least an inch greater than the thickness of the book so that the covers will lie flat when the book is inside. It will be seen that with so wide a space the inner edge of the newsboard will not extend as far back as the back of the book, and in planning the newsboard it should actually be narrower than the book. Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces and lay out and cut all parts.

Construct the covers as for the portfolio, but insert the tape as follows: About ¾ of an inch from both upper and lower edges of the back cover, and just where the cover paper laps onto the vellum, make slits of the same width as the tape and parallel to the edges. Push one end of the tape through from the outside and paste, with the end turned toward the edge. Carry the tape over the adjacent edge along inside of the cover and over the opposite edge where it should be inserted in the second slit and pasted on the inside as at the other end. A little slackness of tape is not objectionable. The lining paper may come to the edge of the tape, or, with more difficulty, be slipped under it.

When one cover of the book has been placed under the tape, it should hold it securely. (See Plate XLI.)

If desired, there is here an excellent opportunity for the application of a cover design. This may consist of simple straight line borders in lower grades, or of more elaborate designs in upper grades. (See Plate XLII.) Lettering also may be used either singly or combined with decorative figures. The design should be carefully planned before any attempt is made to place it upon the finished cover. Erasures are always noticeable and should be avoided. It is recommended that straight lines should be drawn with a rule, and the distance of the border from the edge measured either with a rule or a piece of paper. The decoration may be applied with ink, crayons, or water color. Common ink diluted gives the effect of a darker tone of the color of the paper and as it is easily obtained it is on the whole a satisfactory medium. (See Plate XLIII.)

Problem XIII

STATIONERY HOLDER

TIME: 8 hours.

MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum and paper.

A very satisfactory stationery holder (see Plates XLIV and XLV) may be made by substituting pockets, etc., for the plain lining of the portfolio. Make the outside as described in Problem XII. Then cut for each half, a piece of newsboard one-quarter of an inch shorter and narrower than the outside pieces. Cover one of these smaller pieces with the same paper that is used on the outside turning over a margin of one-half an inch on each of the four sides. At each corner attach suitable pieces for holding a blotter. (See page 33.) When pressed and dried this forms a lining for one side. The other piece of newsboard should be used as a foundation for a “bellows pocket” for holding stationery. First bind one long edge with a strip of vellum having it show on the upper surface for about an inch and a half. The pocket should be made of vellum and when completed, should be as large as the newsboard foundation. To give strength and stability to this cut a piece of paper of the same size as the newsboard. Plan and cut a piece of vellum 5 inches longer and an inch and a half wider than this. Lay the paper lining on the vellum with an equal amount of vellum projecting at each end, and fold the vellum over one long edge of the paper for its entire length and to the depth of about one inch. Paste the hem thus made to the paper but do not paste the broad face as this will cause wrinkling. Then fold the vellum over each end of the paper sharply and make a reverse fold one inch from the end. Place this vellum on the newsboard with the hem of the pocket against the bound edge of the newsboard, and on the other three sides turn over the projecting vellum and paste to the under side of the newsboard. Before pasting in this piece and the blotter for linings, a fastener or tape should be inserted as already described.

The holder may be made more elaborate by adding a third page which should be narrower than the other two and when folded together will appear as a flap. Cut a piece of newsboard for its foundation and fasten to one of the large pieces in the same manner as the two large pieces are attached. To line this, cut a piece of newsboard one-quarter of an inch shorter and narrower than the outside piece and cover it with a single piece of vellum; or pockets may be added and a strap for holding pen or pencil.

Some very handsome cases can thus be made by using wall papers on the broad faces. Narrow stripes or gold bands used as border decorations on the corners of the blotter or the edge of the pockets are very effective while figures well cut may be appliqued to the outside or the inside.

For fastening, use cord, tape or ribbon which should be inserted before the linings are pasted in. To illustrate: Pass a ribbon across the outside of the middle piece, putting each end through a slit--say one inch from the edge--and glue these firmly to the newsboard. Through a slit in the other broad face pass another length of ribbon on the end of which shall be a Japanese bead; on the narrow face in similar fashion attach a loop of ribbon (made by passing both ends through the same slit). When closed the case may be fastened by putting the bead through the loop.

Another style of fastener consists of a cord or braid similarly inserted with a fancy knot in place of the bead.

Problem XIV

SEWING AND BINDING A BOOK

TIME: 10 hours.

MATERIALS: Newsboard,[5] vellum, cover paper, white paper, tape, sewing linen, and “super.”

There are several ways of sewing a book and even more ways of binding it after it is sewed. The first method here given is the simplest, and is such as is feasible in a fifth or sixth grade without a sewing frame, a press, or other apparatus than the simple tools required in the previous problems.

First determine the shape and size of the book. It is better at first not to attempt a book which is very thick, seven to twelve signatures being sufficient for a beginning. A “signature” is the name applied to a folded sheet, several of which go to make up the inside of a book. If the sheet is folded once it is called a “folio”; if twice, a “quarto”; if three times, an “octavo.” (See Plate XLVI.) These signatures, when sewed together, form what is technically known as “the book,” and the covers and back “the case.”

[5] A book-cover may be made of heavier newsboard than the articles previously described, although in elementary grades it will probably be more convenient to use one weight only. Number 30 is commonly used for books of ordinary size (say 7½ × 5¼ inches), while for larger books (10 × 7 inches) a still heavier board is used.

With a piece of cheap paper experiment a little, folding it one or more times and if necessary trimming the edges to change size or proportions. When the size is determined, cut a sufficient number of sheets, fold, and “stack” (pile) them for sewing. If the paper provided is too small to be used for a “quarto,” place one “folio” inside another which will give two thicknesses of paper at each fold and will have the same effect as a “quarto.” If desired, two or three sheets of paper may be placed together before folding so that there will be several thicknesses at the back.

These signatures are to be sewed over three pieces of tape, one to be at the middle of the fold, one from 1 to 1½ inches from each end, according to the size of the pages. On the back of the first signature mark carefully the position of the edges of each piece of tape, and additional points ½ an inch from each end. The latter points show the location of the “kettle stitches.”

Replace this signature on the others and mark across the backs of all, locating similar points on other signatures with as much accuracy as possible. (See Plate XLVII.) The major folds should then be “jogged up” evenly at the back, and the minor folds at the “head” or top.

At each point on each signature make a hole for sewing by opening the signatures and piercing through with a needle from the back. Replace the signatures in the same order as before. Cut three pieces of tape about three inches long. Place the first signature on the deck or table with the fold of the back toward the operator. The left hand should be placed inside the signature to receive and return the threaded needle which is pushed through from the outside by the right hand. (See Plate XLVIII.) Pass the thread in through the first hole (leaving an end long enough for tying), out through the second hole, over the tape, in through the third hole, out through the fourth hole, over the second tape, in through the fifth hole, out through the sixth hole, over the third tape, in through the seventh hole, and out through the eighth or last hole of the signature.

Close this signature and place the second signature on top of the first; then pass the thread in through the eighth hole of the second signature, and out through the seventh hole, over the tape, in through the sixth hole and so on until the thread comes out through the first hole. Tie the thread to the loose short end in a square or hard knot. Place the third signature on top of the second and proceed as before. On reaching the end of the third signature, pass the needle under the stitch connecting the first and second signatures and through the loop formed by the thread. (See Plate XLIX.) Pull tightly to form the “kettle stitch” which should be made at the end of every signature hereafter. In the same manner any number of signatures may thus be sewed to form a book.

For fly-leaves, prepare four single sheets folded once, to be of the same size as the leaves of the book. Place these folded sheets one on top of another leaving about ⅛ of an inch of the folded edge of each exposed, the upper sheet being protected by a piece of waste paper. Rub paste over the exposed surface of all four at the same time. (See Plate L.) Remove the upper sheet and with its pasted edge downward place it upon the front signature of the book, its folded edge being flush with the folded edges of the sewed part, and the tapes thrown back out of the way. After rubbing this sheet well down, open it and place the second sheet inside the first, having its pasted edge downward also. See that the folds exactly fit, and rub down the second sheet. Turn the book over and repeat the process on the opposite side. (See page 93-D). Before proceeding farther the “book” should be dried under weight.

Lay the “book” flat on the desk and with a wooden mallet hammer the folds at the back which will make the signatures lie close together. Turn the “book” over and repeat the process. A few strokes are sufficient. Cover the back with paste (or, if available, hot glue; do not attempt cold), and rub it well in with the fingers that it may hold the signatures together and prevent their spreading. Use only a thin, even coat of paste; pull the tapes tightly across the back, and paste their ends to the outside leaves.

Cut a strip of “super” a little shorter than the length of the back, and wide enough to extend on to the fly-leaves about 1 inch. Place this over the freshly pasted back and rub it well on. Paste the part of the “super” which extends onto each side to the outside leaves over the tapes. When perfectly dry cut off about two-thirds of the width of each outside leaf, leaving a stub onto which the super and tapes are already pasted. The ends of these stubs should be slanted by cutting from the binding toward the front of the book.

The “case,” which should be a trifle longer than the “book,” should be constructed similarly to the portfolio but without tape or lining paper, and with but one strip of vellum (the long one) on the back. Plan to have the covers extend beyond the front and ends of the book about ⅛ of an inch; but as the newsboard foundations should set forward from the binding about ¼ of an inch. Their width should be a trifle less than the width of the pages. Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces and lay out and cut all parts. (See Plate LI.)

Place the pieces of newsboard on each side of the “book” in the exact position they are intended to occupy. Take a narrow strip of paper and attach its ends to the outside of the pieces of newsboard (see Plate LII) so that when the latter are removed from the “book” they will be attached to each other the correct distance apart; that is the space between them will be at least ½ an inch greater than the thickness of the book. Place them on the vellum and trace along the inner edge of each after ascertaining that the distance between them is the same at both ends. Remove the paper which connects the covers and paste them to the vellum in the position already marked out, but do not yet turn over the ends of vellum. Cut a strip of heavy paper of just the width of the back of the “book” and paste in the middle of the piece of vellum, after which the ends of vellum should be turned over and pasted down. Complete the “case” by pasting on the cover paper after which it should be pressed and dried.

When this is done place the “book” as far back in the “case” as it is possible to do and be certain that the edges of the covers are in alignment. Make tiny pencil marks at the front edge of the leaves to guide the placing of the “book” after the paste is spread. When necessary lines or points have been located remove the “book” from the “case” and prepare to paste.

Under the first whole leaf place a piece of newspaper considerably larger than the “book” to protect the pages. Spread paste over the surface of this leaf, first under the stub which should then be pushed down with the brush to hold it securely to the outside leaf; then cover the outside of the stub with paste. Place the “book” in the “case” following the guide lines previously made, and press the covers together with the hands. Lay the book on the desk or table with the pasted half down. (See Plate LIII.) Open at the pasted leaf a very little way and carefully rub the lining onto the cover, smoothing out any wrinkles which may appear. Turn the book over and repeat the process with the other cover. Do not open wide until the book has been pressed.

This should be done very effectually and for this purpose two boards clamped together with handscrews make a better press than a weight. If two thin pieces of tin, zinc, or blotting-paper are placed between the “case” and the “book” while in press it will prevent the moisture from being absorbed by the leaves, causing them to wrinkle.

VARIATIONS

Several variations of the “case” are possible.

(A). The simplest is to cover the outside corners with vellum. If this is to be done, the vellum corners are to be applied before the cover paper. The width of the corner piece, exclusive of the laps and measured on a line bisecting the right-angle, should equal the width of the strip of vellum which shows at the back. This rule holds true in all high class bindings such as morocco, Levant, calf, etc. (See Plate LIV.)

By experimenting a little, a pattern (trapezoid) may be made for the corner pieces by which to cut them. (See Plate LIV.) Plan these pieces to extend under the paper at least ¼ of an inch.

After the cover paper has been cut in rectangular shape, according to the original plan, the two outside corners should be trimmed to allow the proper amount of vellum to show. This may be accomplished in one of two ways. Using the same pattern as for the vellum corners, fit its two opposite non-parallel edges as close to the corner as possible and cut along the inside edge of the pattern. Or, one may place the newsboard on the paper and trace around it, lay off the size of the finished corner and cut on the resulting oblique line. After the vellum corners have been pasted on firmly, place the cover paper carefully and paste it on as already described.

(B). After the “case” is completed in either of the two ways described, it may be decorated with lettering or by the application of other design. In this instance the suggestions given in connection with the portfolio should be followed.

(C). The entire “case” may be covered with vellum. Generally a cloth covering is not desirable on a hand-sewed book, but if for a special reason one is to be used, have a single piece of vellum cut large enough to cover both back and sides. After finding the correct distance between the two pieces of newsboard, lay them on the vellum, in the manner already described, trace around them, and complete the “case” by pasting.

Problem XV

SEWING A BOOK ON A FRAME

TIME AND MATERIALS: As for Problem X, except bookbinder’s twine is to be used instead of tape.

To carry out this problem a few common wood-working tools will be necessary. A sewing frame may be made by older pupils, a working drawing for which is here given. (See Plate LV.)

The wooden upright screws may be purchased. Instead of tapes the book is to be sewed on bookbinder’s twine. Cut three pieces 6 inches longer than the distance between the upper and lower bars. Tie one end of each securely to the upper bar and slide them along to position. (See Plate LVI.) Tie the other ends to the lower bar, pulling them as taut as possible.

The signatures should be “jogged up” and carefully placed in a vise, back up and extending above the jaws about half an inch. It may be better (depending on the shape and size of the vise) to place the signatures between two boards, and then the whole in the vise. On the back of one signature mark off the position of the “kettle stitches” and twine 5 points in all--and, if T-square, try square or triangle are available, square lines across; otherwise lay off these points on both outside signatures and thus insure cuts which shall be “square across” the back. At each point saw across all signatures with a back saw, making a cut about ⅛ of an inch deep. Hold the saw perfectly horizontally, that the cuts may be of uniform depth on all signatures. If vise and saw are not available, V-cuts may be made on each signature with scissors instead.

To sew a printed book, begin at the front with the “head” toward the right. Place the first signature on the frame (page 1 down), with the back toward the operator and the three inside cuts against the twine, leaving the cuts at the ends for the “kettle stitches.” If necessary, move the pieces of twine along the bars so that they exactly fit the cuts and sink into them. (See Plate LVI). Tighten the twine by turning the wooden nuts and commence to sew. Hold the signature open with the left hand, and, commencing at the head, (right) insert the needle from the outside through the first hole. Bring the thread out through the second hole on the right of the twine, cross it, and return the thread through the same hole on the left of the twine. It will be seen that this process is virtually the same as sewing over tapes. Continue across the first signature and, when completed, close it, lay the second signature on top, and, in the same manner, sew across it from left to right. Pull the sewing threads tightly and always forward in the direction of the sewing. If they are pulled backward, the paper will be torn.

After sewing across the second signature, tie the thread to the loose end as in a book sewed on tapes. When the third signature has been sewed, make loop stitch as already illustrated, (forming a part of the “kettle stitch”) and repeat this stitch at the end of each signature. When the sewing is finished, grasp the book firmly and slide it up on the cords about 1½ inches; then cut the twine from the frame, leaving about 1¼ inches projecting beyond the book on both sides. Pull the twine with both hands to straighten it. Put in fly-leaves and “super” and bind as before. The ends of the twine should be frayed out, and, after the fly-leaves are in, pasted in fan-shape to the outside leaf. Put on the case as shown in Problem XIV.

ADDITIONAL POINTS

(A). The binding may be made stronger by “whip-stitching” the fly-leaves after they are pasted in. For this purpose, take an ordinary sewing needle (about No. 2) and linen thread (No. 35). Begin at the right and, with “over-and-over” stitches about ¼ of an inch apart, sew through the outside signature and the fly-leaves. A knot should be made at each end to fasten the threads. Turn the book over and repeat the operation on the opposite side.

(B). If heavy paper is used for the fly-leaves, the outside leaf should be torn or cut off carefully before putting on the case. Leave just a narrow margin at the fold to hold the other half from coming out. This being done, there is but one thickness with which to line the cover, but two free leaves are left as before.

(C). Head-bands may be used on a book sewed on a frame. Cut pieces to fit across the back of the book and paste one at each end after the “super” has been pasted on.

(D). Any book is made more attractive by using colored “end papers” or fly-leaves. These may be of the same material as the cover or of contrasting material. A small surface pattern worked out in crayon or water color for this purpose makes an excellent problem in applied design and at the same time adds much to the appearance of the book. When using any paper for fly-leaves which has a right and wrong side, the sheets should be folded wrong side out. Note that only two folios of colored paper should be used while the other two are white--that is at each end of the “book” there will be one white folio with a colored one inside it. When stacking the sheets to apply the paste, place a colored sheet at the bottom, then a white sheet, then a colored sheet, and a white sheet on top. When pasting these to the book, this brings a white sheet first and a colored sheet inside, so that when pasted to the “case” one-half forms its lining and the other half is free.

Problem XVI

REBINDING A PAPER-COVERED BOOK

TIME AND MATERIALS: As for Problem XIV or XV except the “book.”

Signatures for sewing may be obtained by taking apart some good paper covered book. Foreign books frequently come in this shape, and are much less expensive than in any other binding.

Carefully remove the cover and the sewing threads, if any, and scrape the glue from the back. Then proceed with the sewing and binding as already described.

It may be desired to have fly-leaves of lithographed or lining paper. In this case have two rather heavy sheets of such paper folded once with the plain side out, and two folded sheets of white paper. When pasting these onto the book, place a white sheet first, and then place a figured sheet inside it. When completed, each cover will have a lining of figured paper faced by a fly-leaf of the same, and a plain second fly-leaf next to the printed pages.

Problem XVII

BINDING NEW PRINTED SHEETS

TIME AND MATERIALS: As for Problem XIV or XV except the “book.”

Unsewed but printed signatures may sometimes be obtained from a printer or publisher. Fold and assemble the sheets, using great care to observe the correct order. Sew and bind by one of the methods already given.

Problem XVIII

REBINDING AN OLD BOOK

TIME AND MATERIALS: As for Problem XIV or XV except the “book.”

A school book whose leaves are still in good condition, but with broken cover or loose binding, may often be preserved for much longer service by rebinding. Sometimes one has a worn book which has personal value, and a new cover is desired.

First remove the old covers, being careful not to injure the leaves, pull out the sewing threads and remove glue, “super,” and fly-leaves.

Some repairing may also be necessary. Torn edges may be pasted together or faced with gummed tissue, or, if the tears are not to deep, the edges may be trimmed off.

Broken places in the folds may be mended if necessary by using strips of paper about 1 inch in width and as long as the leaves. If many strips are pasted onto the folds, the back of the book will be thick and bulky. For this reason, a thin tough paper should be used. Paste the fold of two adjoining leaves lengthwise on the center of one of these strips, so placed that, however badly torn, the leaves will assume their proper position, and the extra piece will be on the outside of the fold.

Illustrations are usually printed on a single sheet, often of paper different from the leaves of the book. To insert these, cover the back with a piece of waste paper, leaving a margin along one edge as in the case of the fly-leaf. Cover this margin with paste and insert the leaf in its proper place, pasting it down to the adjacent leaf. The illustration should usually be on the right of the book.

When all repairing has been done, re-assemble the signatures and bind as a new book.

ORIGINAL PROBLEMS

A final test of the pupil’s efficiency lies in his ability to plan and carry to completion an original project. Originality does not consist in making an article never heard of before, but in adapting to one’s specific needs, principles and processes already learned through class instruction.

A fitting close to a course in elementary book-binding is such a problem. If pupils choose to make articles such as the memorandum pad or the hinged covers which have already been taught, they should be accepted as original work, provided that each pupil selects the size and proportions himself, and does not depend on the teacher to repeat the instruction in detail. Yet more credit should be given one whose originality extends further as in the case of a boy who made for his father’s use a holder for conductor’s checks, or the one who made a mount for telephone numbers.

All articles constructed should be such as are appropriately made of the materials used. Models, such as are sometimes made of cardboard, to be constructed later of different materials should be excluded from this course.

It is by no means essential or desirable that originality be held in abeyance until the end of the course but rather, it should be fostered during each succeeding lesson. The pupils who work more rapidly than the average of the class may always have on hand an extra piece of work to be done when the regular assignment has been completed.

The adaptation of any problem to a specific purpose should always be considered an opportunity for the development of class originality. For example, a principal may want several portfolios in which to keep a particular kind of papers; or a set of hinged covers to hold a “Course of Study” may be desired for each teacher’s desk. These should be considered class problems and worked out as such.

It should be continually borne in mind that the object of the course is the development of the child. When he is conscious of the ability to make an article of intrinsic value a long step has been taken. “To help the pupil to help himself” is the highest aim of education.

TEAM WORK

Some of these problems may be given, especially in older classes as “team work.” The class may be divided into sections doing specific parts of the work under a foreman.

This method is a good one when the aim is the output or when an insight into the construction of articles in large quantities is desired.