Chapter VIII: Edward VI and Mary. Transitional Period

During this period not more than sixty brasses were laid down. This was largely due to the religious and political turmoil of the period and is the more to be regretted, especially in the case of the clergy, as the brasses might have thrown much light on the question of the vestments worn during the time when the first and second Prayer Books of Edward VI were in use.

The engraving grows steadily poorer and the metal thinner.

Of the ecclesiastics, the following is believed to be a complete list for both reigns, but the Marian clergy, being naturally in full vestments, have for the most part been mentioned before.

Hugh Brystowe (parson), Waddesdon, Bucks. (in shroud), 1548.

Jn. White (Warden of Winchester College and later Bp. of
Winchester), Winchester College is in cope, laid down in 1548.

Thos. Magnus (archdeacon), Sessay, Yorks. (cope), 1550.

Bp. Goodryke of Ely, Ely Cathedral (full vestments), 1554.

Bp. Bell of Worcester, St James, Clerkenwell (ditto), 1556.

James Coorthopp (Dean of Peterborough), Christ Church, Oxford
(in almuce), 1557.

Arthur Cole (Canon of Windsor), Magdalen College, Oxford (in
mantle of the Order), 1558.

Robt. Brassie (in almuce), King’s College, Cambridge, 1558.

The largest number of transitional brasses represent men in armour either with or without the tabard of arms.

The chief changes are that the mail skirt has often an indented edge, the taces are divided at the lower part by an arched opening between the tuilles, and frills are worn at the wrists.

The most noteworthy change in the ladies’ attire is that the kennel head-dress is abandoned. The hair is parted in front and a linen cap supports a bonnet, often of velvet and having a jewelled edge. It is generally of horseshoe shape. A kerchief hangs down over the neck and shoulders behind. This head-dress is continued during the reign of Elizabeth and was known as the Queen Mary cap, at first after Mary Tudor, and later after Mary Stuart. The sleeves are slashed and puffed at the shoulders and from the belt hangs a mirror or other ornament. The collar is thrown open and reveals a gathered underbodice. A long cloak with false sleeves is often found, and heraldic mantles are still worn when the husband appears in a tabard. These died out in the opening years of Elizabeth, as already stated.

Of civilians little need be said. Their wives follow the new style, but little alteration in their own dress is noticeable. Three examples may be given, the last a woolman, the other two judges. These are Henry Bradschawe and wife, Halton, Bucks., 1553; Wm. Coke and wife, Milton, Cambridge, 1553; Anthony Cave and wife, Chicheley, Bucks., 1558.