Chapter I: Preface

Two inducements have led to the publication of the following volume: one, the favor with which similar works from my pen have been received; the other, the belief that a book of fact, for light reading, would be welcome to many, amid the floods of fiction of the present day.

It was with no purpose of making a book, that the record from which the volume is drawn was kept; on the contrary, the chief difficulty I have found, in fitting it for the press, has arisen, from its being so strictly personal and private. To remodel the manuscript so as to change its character in these respects, would have been a labor which I was unwilling to undertake; and to select from it such matter as might be at once suitable for publication, and acceptable to the general reader, without affecting the connection and unity of the whole, has proved a task not easily accomplished. In attempting it, I may have erred in judgment by putting into print, in some instances, what might better have been omitted; and again perhaps, in others by omitting what would have been welcomed by the reader.

Besides such matter as was essential in giving an outline of the cruise of the Congress, and such observation of the places visited by her, as would be expected in a work of the kind, I have thought it proper to retain of that which related specifically to the ship, sufficient to convey a general idea of life on board a man-of-war; and also, of that which referred to myself in my office, enough to throw light upon the position, duties, and influence of a chaplain in the naval service.

Should the volume meet with any degree of acceptance from the public in general, I shall be grateful; and should its circulation be limited to the decks of a man-of-war, or to the forecastle of a merchant-ship, the object in its publication will not be entirely lost.

C. S. S.

RIVERSIDE, 1856.

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CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

PAGE

Departure from Cape Henry—Sacrifices in Naval Life—Evening
Prayers—First Casualty—Sabbath at Sea—Scene in the Gulf
Stream—My Ship and Shipmates—The Crew, 1

CHAPTER II.

Great Caycos—Case of Punishment—The Cat-o’-nine Tails—Moral
Effects of the Lash—Evening on board a Man-of-War—Scenes off
Havana—Entrance into Port, 13

CHAPTER III.

The Prisoners of Contoy—Excitement at Havana—The Captain General
and Chief of Police—Visits of Ceremony—Drive on Shore—The
Volante—Paseo and Champs de Mars—Evening Promenade—Visit to
Regla by Night—The Captive Filibusters—Destiny of Cuba, 26

CHAPTER IV.

Gulf of Florida—The Wreckers—Incidents in the Sick Bay—Maury’s
Wind and Current Charts—The Doldrums—Crossing the Line—Neptune
Aboard—Dreams of Home—Impediments to Piety on board a
Man-of-War—Giving up Grog, 42

CHAPTER V.

Cape Frio—Coast Scene—Bay of Rio—Reminiscence of the Past—City of
Rio—Yellow Fever—Equipages—Drive to Botafogo—A Tropical Home, 58

CHAPTER VI.

First Impressions at Rio—Mixture of Races—Senate Chamber—Imperial
Legislature—Form of Government—Council of
State—Ministry—Nobility—The Court in State—The Emperor and
Empress, 70

CHAPTER VII.

Cemetery of Gamboa—Governor Kent—Tomb of the Hon. William
Tudor—Island and Fortress of Villegagnon—Discovery of
Brazil—Huguenot Colonists—Treachery of Villegagnon—Progress in
Civilization—State of the Empire—Its Dangers and Safeguards, 80

CHAPTER VIII.

Praya Grande and Praya San Domingo—Bay of St. Francis
Xavier—Passage to the Plata—Montevideo—Sea-Birds—Cape
Pigeon—Albatross—Booby—Stormy
Petrel—Dolphin—Nautilus—Portuguese Man-of-War, 90

CHAPTER IX.

Rio de Janeiro—The City Palace—Scenes at Court—Mode of
Presentation—Character of the Emperor and Empress—Their Habits
of Life—Suppression of Slave Trade—Illness of a
Sailor-boy—First Death on board the Congress, 104

CHAPTER X.

All Souls’ Day—Church and Convent of San Antonio—Commemoration of
the Dead—Manner of preserving the Bones of the Dead—Ascent of
the Corcovado—Panoramic View—Sources of the Aqueduct—Its
Construction and History—Descent of the Hill of Santa Theresa, 117

CHAPTER XI.

Prisons and Prison Discipline—Ball on Ship-board—Fête at the
American Ambassador’s—Western Suburbs of Rio—Country Seat of
Mr. R—— —British Flag-Ship—Admiral and Mr. Reynolds—Garden of
Don Juan M—— —Madame M——, 128

CHAPTER XII.

Weather at Rio—Meteorological Changes—Mountain Walks—Shops and
Shopping—Restrictions upon Females by Custom—Slaves at
Auction—Birthday of Don Pedro II.—National Hymn and Air—A
Yankee Captain’s Opinion of Court State—The Emperor afloat, 143

CHAPTER XIII.

Wedding at the American Consulate—Marriage at the Orphan
Asylum—Foundling Hospital—Foreign Commerce—Arrivals in Port—U.
S. Sloop St. Mary—Captain Magruder—Botanical Garden—Storm from
the Corcovado—Fête at the Chapel Santa Lucia—Churches on
Christmas Eve—Twelfth Night Party—Youthful Piety in Military
Life, 154

CHAPTER XIV.

Montevideo—Its Political Condition—First Impressions on Shore—Mr.
H—— and Family—British Church and Services, 166

CHAPTER XV.

Buenos Ayres—Mode of Landing—Reception of Commodore
McKeever—Evening Drive—Negro Washerwomen—Carts of the
Pampas—Washington’s Birthday—Mr. Harris, American Chargé
d’Affaires—Quinta of Palermo—Doña Manuelita de Rosas—Pleasure
Grounds—Interview with Rosas—His Appearance and Conversation, 173

CHAPTER XVI.

The Argentine Confederation—Early Life of Rosas—A Type of the
People—Life in the Pampas—Police of Buenos Ayres—Description of
the City—Visit to the Conde de Bessi—Nuncio from the Pope, 188

CHAPTER XVII.

Montevideo—Store-ship Southampton—Dr. C——, Fleet Surgeon—The Poor
of Montevideo—French Troops—Dress of the Gaucho—Mr. and Madame
L—— —Mrs. Z—— —Pamperos at Montevideo—Diseases of the
Climate—Marriage of Dr. K—— of the St. Louis—Funeral of Mrs.
S—— —Protestant Burial-Ground, 198

CHAPTER XVIII.

Island of St. Catherine—Scenery at Santa Cruz—Captain Cathcart
acting Consul—City of Desterro—Its Public Square—Market
Place—Hotel—Civility of the Inhabitants—Manufactures of Flowers
in Feathers and Shells—Dinner—Waiter and Waitress—Walks at
Santa Cruz—An Unexpected Recognition—Dangerous Walking Ground, 209

CHAPTER XIX.

Return to Rio de Janeiro—Winter Weather there—The Larangeiras or
Orange Valley—Walk along the Aqueduct—Festivals of the Romish
Church—Corpus Christi and St. John’s Days—Marriages at the
Orphan Asylum—Hospital of the Misericordia—Magnificence of the
New Building—Country Seat of Mr. M—— —Scenes at a
Wedding—Lieut. R—— —Smuggled Liquor and the Consequence—A
Reproof to Despondency, 220

CHAPTER XX.

Political State of Montevideo—Defection of Urquiza—Address of
Rosas—Retreat of Oribe—Visit to the Mount—Pacification at
Montevideo—Termination of the Siege—Scenes in the Streets and
Suburbs, 237

CHAPTER XXI.

Visit to Urquiza—His Encampment at Pantanoso—Marqueé of
Commander-in-Chief—Travelling Carriage and Baggage
Wagon—Adjutant on Duty—Reception—Personal Appearance of
Urquiza—His Pet Mastiff—Professed Purposes of the Liberator—His
past History and Domestic Relations—The Cerrito and its
Fortress—Town of Restoracion—A Gilpin-like Ride—Gaucho Soldiers
in Camp—Their Dress, Pastime and Subsistence—Mode of
Slaughtering Cattle—Proclamation by Urquiza, 249

CHAPTER XXII.

Return to Brazil—Assault of a Runner on board the
Congress—Captain McIntosh—His Transfer to the
Falmouth—Departure for the United States—Making Daylight—Ship’s
Library—Sailors as Readers—Street Calls in Rio—Civility and
Patience of the People—Disinclination to
Locomotion—Omnibuses—Mules and Omnibus Drivers, 266

CHAPTER XXIII.

San Aliexo—Mr. and Mrs. M—— —Steam Packet—Passengers—Image
Venders—San Antonio—Superstition of the People—Experience in
Miracles—Admiral T—— —Luncheon—Negro Valet—Piedade—An American
Wagon—White Mules—Turnpike—Character of the Scenery—Town of
Majé—Private Road of Mr. M—— —Cotton Factory and American
House—Sabbath at San Aliexo—Romish Clergy—Peak Valley and
River—Rain in the Mountains—Sudden Rise in the Streams—Mandioca
Mill—Difficulties encountered by Mr. M——, 275

CHAPTER XXIV.

Christmas—Marriage of Miss K—— —Negroes in the Holidays—Scene of
Revelry in the Larangeiras—Amusing Street Scene—Custom-House
Regulations—Characteristic want of Confidence—Security of
Property and Person—Criminal Prosecutions—Forms in Court—Manner
of taking the Oath—Public executions—Return to Montevideo—State
of Affairs in the Plata—Invasion of Buenos Ayres by
Urquiza—Tragic Fate of Missionaries in Terra del Fuego, 291

CHAPTER XXV.

Overthrow of Rosas—Doña Manuelita at Palermo—Her Escape at Night
in Disguise on board an English Man-of-War—Pillage in Buenos
Ayres—First Checked by the Marines of the Congress and
Jamestown—Summary Punishment of the Marauders—Urquiza at
Palermo—General Terero—Visit to the Wounded in the
Hospital—Suburbs of the City—English Burial-Ground—Government
House built by Rosas, 307

CHAPTER XXVI.

Battle field of Monte Caseros—Scenes on the Way—Santos
Lugares—Anecdotes of the Conflict—Triumphal Entry of the Allied
Armies into Buenos Ayres—Te Deum at the Cathedral and
Thanksgiving Sermon, 322

CHAPTER XXVII.

Hospitality in Buenos Ayres—Return to Montevideo—Public
Rejoicings—Admirals Lepredour and Grenfell—Deep-Sea
Soundings—Sea Scene—Walks at Desterro—Praya Compreda—A Yankee
Cobbler—Ride to San Pedro d’Alcantara—Indoor Scenes—Our Host
and his Housemaid—Preparations for the Night—Chapel and
Cemetery—Mountain Scenery—Morning Visit to a German Family—A
Feat of Agility—Luncheon—Milk and Mandioca—Departure from San
Pedro—Ride by Night, 334

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Desterro—Mr. Wells—Funeral of a Child—Evening Walk—A
Novena—Singular Usage—Auction at the Church—Mock
Emperor—Evening Ride—Mountain View—Habits in Rural
Life—Indians—Venomous Snakes—Antidote for the Poison of
Snakes—Whit-Sunday—Coronation of the Mock Emperor—President of
St. Catherine—Preaching by the Vicar—Appointment and Support of
the Clergy—Pastime at Santa Cruz—Impoverished Germans—Estate of
Las Palmas—Señor de L—— —Antonio de L—— —Coup d’Etat by
Urquiza—Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Lore—Protestant Churches—Rural
Scenes—Native Cows—Hon. Mr. Schenck—Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Fletcher, 359

CHAPTER XXIX.

Ascent of the Sierra of the Organ Mountains—Frieschal—La
Barriera—Mules and Muleteers—Mountain Wood in Flower—Boa
Vista—H—— Hall—Arrival at Constantia—Mr. Heath—His
Estate—Slaves and their Treatment—Morning and Evening
Benedictions—Mountain Route to Petropolis—Woodland
Scenery—Monkeys—Isolated Peaks—Valley of Piabanha—Mule
Riding—Petropolis—German Protestant Church, 401

CHAPTER XXX.

Buenos Ayres in 1853—Revolution and Civil War—Mode of Conducting
it—Savage Atrocities of the Outside Party—Failure of all
Mediations in effecting a Pacification—Final Departure of
Commodore McKeever and Suite—Homeward Bound, 418

POSTSCRIPT 425

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BRAZIL AND LA PLATA.