Chapter I: Part 1

BREAD AND CAKE
BAKING:

A

COLLECTION OF RECIPES

FOR MAKING

BREAD, CAKES, PIES, ICE CREAM, &C.

AND DESIGNED AS

AN ASSISTANT TO ALL INTERESTED IN BAKING.

BY

FREDERICK D. HAUPTMANN.

PITTSBURGH:
PRINTED BY STEVENSON & FOSTER.
1877.

_All rights reserved._

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1877, by FREDERICK D. HAUPTMANN, in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

Parties found infringing this copyright will be dealt with according to law.

PREFACE.

My object in preparing this work for the public is, the recording of such information as I have gained by a practical experience of over ten years at bread and cake baking, ice cream making, &c., as will be of value to _all_ interested in baking. Although there are a great number of bakers who do not _need_ the book, I have no doubt that many of them will find something new. It is also hoped that the book will fill a vacancy felt by parents, who wish to place before their daughters a useful book on the art of baking, &c. The recipes are such as I have used, with the exception of a few given me by friends. While no extraordinary merit is claimed for the book, it is hoped, at the _very least_, that every purchaser will feel, after having tried some of the recipes, that he has received a _full equivalent_ for his money.

Respectfully,
THE AUTHOR.

This book will be mailed to any address upon receipt of the price, $1.00, and can only be procured of the author, or by sending to his address.

F. D. HAUPTMANN,
P. O. BOX 94,
_New Waterford, Ohio_.

BREAD AND CAKE BAKING.

REMARKS.

As this book is designed as an assistant to all interested in baking, I think it not out of place to call the attention of employers, journeymen bakers, and all persons connected with baking as a business, to a few of the evils existing at the present time. Hoping that there will be some remedy devised for them, that will be satisfactory to all rightminded persons concerned. The first I will mention is, the great number of hours employees in some bakeries are kept at work. The truth of the adage, “Man’s inhumanity to man makes countless thousands mourn,” is certainly apparent. Every person desires a few hours each day that he can call _his own_. I don’t think that there is a journeyman baker but would be satisfied by having twelve hours as a day’s work, nor do I think that any rightminded employer ought reasonably to demand more from him.

Another evil is the night work, and in many instances, working on Sunday. I believe this to be pretty generally, if not altogether, unnecessary. I do not wish it inferred by any remarks that I might herein make, that I wish to cast a stigma upon employers or any one else. Unprincipled persons may be found among all classes of people (at least as far as my observation has extended), and journeymen bakers, as a class, are no exception, for it is frequently found, after an employer has discharged a baker, that the baker has, before leaving, spoiled the flour or yeast. As in an instance that came to my notice, where a baker had put ashes in the stock yeast and ferment, and gunpowder in the malt.

There are in most of the large cities in the United States, what are known as “Bakers’ Homes.” The evil to which I wish to call the attention of all concerned, is the “treating” at these places. When a baker gets a situation and leaves there, he is generally expected to “treat the house,” and if an employer hires a baker there it is likewise expected from the employer. I do not say that all “Bakers’ Homes” are of this class, but there are a number of them. What is wanted is _sober, intelligent_ workmen. While an occasional glass of ale or beer may benefit the person who indulges in it, or at the least do no harm, to get “on a drunk” certainly does not. Treating one another is a poor show of friendship; but to meet together occasionally, and each one to express his opinion on various subjects connected with baking, &c., is for _the benefit of all concerned_.

The Bakeshop.

One of the evils about a great many bakeries is a miserable bakeshop. There is a tendency to too much show, in a number of bakeries. While the store and ice cream saloon may be fitted up grand, it is too often the case that the bakeshop is not fit to work in. I have seen bakeshops that were never scrubbed out, there being nothing but a few boards laid for a floor, or sometimes no floor but the ground. A bakeshop should be above ground, and not in the cellar, as I believe the majority of them are, and have enough windows to light up the shop well, and so arranged that plenty of pure air may be admitted. The shop should be kept warm or cool, as desired, and have some sort of flue or contrivance for carrying off to the top of the building the odors which arise from boiling hops, frying crullers, &c., when the shop is situated in the cellar, thereby preventing the store from being filled with them, which is sometimes the case. It should have a good hard wood floor, and so arranged that it may be easily scrubbed out, which ought to be done once every week, or _at least_ once every two weeks. There should be a cupboard for all small pans and cake moulds.

A bake trough should be a little narrower at the bottom than at the top, and be made of hard dry wood. A large trough should be made of plank about two inches thick.

Bread.

Good bread should have a nice, soft, light brown crust, be white and spongy inside, and have an agreeable flavor. Too much yeast, or letting the dough get _too old_, will cause bread to crumble when cut. Take bread out of the pans as soon as baked, and stand it up edgewise on the bench or table; don’t put on a pine table, as the bread will get a pine flavor. Cover up immediately with a thick cloth. Never put bread in the proof oven to raise. After it is put in pans, put in shallow wooden boxes, and cover by putting one box on the other, or put into a close cupboard. If you are sure of the heat of the oven, close the oven door when the bread is put in, and allow it to remain closed until the bread is about baked. The time it should be left in the oven will vary according to the size of the loaves, and the quality and lightness of the dough. The bread nearest the furnace will bake first; take that out when done, and change some of the pans around to where those stood that have been taken out, and proceed in this manner until all is baked. After the oven is heated, it should be allowed to stand with the dampers and doors closed for some time, from one-half hour to one and a half hours.

A barrel of flour (196 lbs.) will yield about 262 lbs. of baked bread, although it will vary a little according to the quality of the flour. To tell good flour, put a little in a cup or tumbler, add enough cold water to make a rather stiff dough, stir with a stick; if the dough is sticky it is bad. Good flour should be white, with a very pale straw-colored tint. A good idea is to use several brands of flour. Before buying flour smell it, to see that it is not musty.

Stock Yeast.

Before beginning to make yeast have the yeast tub or crock thoroughly scalded and aired. To do this, fill the tub or crock about one-fourth or one-half full of _scalding hot_ water, cover closely, and let it stand about half an hour. Then scrub out thoroughly with a brush, rinse out well with clean cold water, and stand upside down in a cool shady place. Never use a tub or crock that has had grease in it, as the least bit of grease will spoil the yeast. It is a good plan to have an extra scrubbing brush for scrubbing out the yeast tubs, not using it for anything else, an extra dipper for taking the yeast out of the tub, and also a sieve for straining it. A hair sieve is the best. Good clear rain water is the best for stock yeast, but if that is not to be had, use any other that is clear.

To each “Patent Bucket” of water (holding about 2½ gallons) allow 2 oz. hops, 1 lb. flour, 10 oz. malt, and 1 pint stock yeast. Put the water in a kettle, and when boiling briskly throw in the hops. Keep boiling briskly for about fifteen or twenty minutes, strain enough of the boiling hop water on the flour to make a stiff paste, stirring well with a paddle until right smooth, then strain on this the balance of the hop water, and set it away to cool. Stir it occasionally to hasten the cooling, or in summer set the crock in a tub of cold water, or take out some and put it into a tin bucket, and set this in cold water; when the whole of it is cool enough so that the hand can be well borne in it, put in the malt, stir it well, and let it set until about milkwarm. If the weather is very warm, let it get nearly cold. Then put in the stock yeast, stir well, and set in a warm place, in winter: in the summer, set on the floor, in a corner of the bakeshop. If made in the morning, let it set until the next morning, or until it has _raised and fell_. It will not raise more than two or three inches. Then strain through a sieve into a clean bucket, rinse the tub or crock with cold water, and pour the yeast back into it again, and set it in a cool place, or on ice if the weather is very warm. Make this yeast twice a week, or if there is a great amount of baking to be done, and the weather is very warm, it is a good plan to make every other day.

Always taste the stock yeast before “stocking” the fresh away, to see that it is not sour; if sour, throw it away, and procure fresh from some baker who makes good bread. If the stock yeast is not to be had, put in six cakes of “National Dry Yeast,” which is made at Seneca, N. Y. There may be others equally as good, but as I have used this I therefore recommend it. Should the yeast at any time appear to be _weak_, when making yeast again use a few cakes of the “National Yeast” along with the stock yeast that is used for “stocking” the yeast away with; or in the evening before making yeast, scald a little flour in a small bowl or crock, making a rather soft paste. When it is milk warm put in one tablespoonful of stock yeast to one pint of this. When it has fallen about half an inch or an inch, it is ready for use, and should not be allowed to stand long after that. Use about a half pint of this for “stocking” away two and one-half gallons of yeast. There are thermometers made especially for yeast, to show the degrees of heat, but in making this it is not necessary to use one.

Ferment.

Take 1 peck potatoes, wash clean, put into a kettle, and put on them 4 gallons water, or sufficient to scald 8 lbs. flour. When the potatoes have boiled soft put 8 lbs. of sieved flour in the ferment tub, and pour on enough of the boiling water to make a smooth, soft paste; or empty both the potatoes and water on the flour, and stir well with a stick or paddle, until the flour is all thoroughly scalded, after which pour on cold water until the hand can be borne in it, then squeeze all lumps fine with the hand and pour on more cold water until the mixture is milkwarm, or in warm weather nearly cold. Then put in 5 quarts stock yeast, and stir well. Make this in the evening and it will be ready for use by the next morning. It should stand in a moderately warm place. In winter use 6 quarts of stock yeast. Great care should be taken with this, as with stock yeast, to thoroughly scald the tubs, and not use anything that is greasy. This should _raise and fall_ before it is used. It is best when made every day, but it can be kept several days in a cool place.

To Set Sponge.

To every three buckets of ferment use one bucket of water. Use milkwarm water in temperate weather. If the weather is very warm, set with cold water, or put just enough hot water into the cold to remove the _chill_. In very cold weather use the water as warm as the hand can be borne in it, and pour the water on the flour first, stirring around a few times before putting in the ferment. Use sifted flour for setting sponge and making dough. Set a rather stiff batter. Set the “span board” so that the sponge will raise nearly to the top of the dough-trough, but not touch the lid. Allow the sponge to fall two or three inches before beginning to make dough. Some bakers make dough as soon as the dough commences to fall, and others allow it to raise and fall twice.

Making Dough.

Use about three-fourths as much water for dough as you used ferment and water for setting sponge, providing you take no sponge out for anything else. For instance, when you set a “four-bucket sponge” add to this three buckets more water. Less water can be added, or more, the same as with setting sponge. If too little water is used, the dough will raise slow, and the bread will generally be dark, and if too much is used the dough will raise too fast, and will tear apart and appear to be _rotten_. Adding more or less water generally depends on circumstances, according to the weather, the amount of bread wanted, and the help. Always thoroughly mix the flour in the dough, cutting the dough in good-sized pieces with the scraper, and piling at one end of the trough; then pull the dough up at the sides of the trough, cut in pieces again, and pile to the other end of the trough. When well _mixed_, punch the dough with the fist, turn up at the sides, and throw to the other end of the trough again. Before throwing over the dough for the last time, sprinkle fine salt over the bottom of the trough; this will prevent the dough from sticking to the trough. A rather soft dough, well worked, will make the largest loaf of bread.

For hearth bread, make a stiff dough. Never use water that is warmer than milkwarm for making dough. The time dough should stand will vary, but generally requires from one-half hour to one and one-half hours. After the water is added to the sponge, mix the sponge well by squeezing with the hands, before adding the flour. Add ½ lb. salt to every 3 gallons of water. After the dough has raised well, cut in large pieces, punch together well, and throw out into shallow wooden boxes; then throw a piece on the bench, weigh into loaves and mould up round, dust a box with flour, put the loaves in it, and when they have remained in the boxes covered for fifteen or twenty minutes, put into pans, and put into shallow wooden boxes to raise, or set in a close cupboard. Don’t set too close to the floor. Some bakers steam the bread, but the objections to this plan are that the pans become rusty. For my part, I prefer the shallow wooden boxes, and setting one box on another.

Rye Bread.

Take some of the wheat sponge after it has been thinned by the addition of the salt and water; add sufficient rye flour that has been sieved, to make a rather stiff dough. Let it raise well. Then throw out on the bench, work together, weigh into loaves, and mould round. Then lay a piece of coarse toweling on a board and dust it with flour. Roll out a loaf lengthwise, having it thick in the middle, lay at one end of the cloth, then pull up the cloth against this, and lay down another loaf, and so on. Lay the loaves upside down, cover them with a cloth; if they raise too fast, remove the cloth. When they have raised sufficiently, dust slightly with flour and turn on the peel right side up, and with a sharp pointed stick make three or four holes in each loaf. Bake before bread, and bake on the hearth, and when taking out of the oven wash the loaves with a brush dipped in water. Don’t set the loaves too close together in the oven.

French Bread

is made of wheat bread dough, set on cloths in the same manner as rye bread, but instead of rolling the loaf so it will be thick in the middle, have it rolled one thickness. Set in the oven, and wash over in the same manner as rye bread.

Graham Bread.

To each half gallon sponge after it has been thinned, add one-fourth pint of N. O. molasses, and add Graham flour to make a rather soft dough. Work the dough well, and let it raise well. Then throw on the bench and work together, and weigh off in loaves; put in square tin or sheet iron moulds, and set in shallow wooden boxes. Bake the same as wheat bread, being careful that the oven is not too cold. Should the dough appear to crack, and tear apart after it remains in the pans a short time, it is generally on account of too little water being added to the sponge.

Twist.

Take out one-half gallon sponge after it has been thinned with the addition of the water and salt. Add about ¼ lb. soft butter. Make the dough a little stiffer than for bread. Let it raise well, then weigh off into pieces weighing about 1 lb. each. Pinch each piece in three equal pieces, mould them round and set on the bench, previously dusting the bench with flour. Let them remain about fifteen minutes, then roll out lengthwise, thin at the ends, and twist. Put them on pans and let them raise well, and bake before the bread. Grease over with a brush dipped in melted butter, when taken out of the oven. When making a large quantity, add a little scalded white corn meal; it will make them much whiter.

Buns.

Take out one-half gallon sponge before it has been thinned. Put into a wooden bowl, add 2 eggs, ½ lb. white sugar, a pint of warm milk or water, and about ¼ lb. of soft butter or lard, also a pinch of salt; add flour to make a soft dough, and work it well, let it raise well, then throw out on the bench, and punch together. Cut off with the scraper, and make into round balls. Put them on pans, and set them a good distance apart, put in the proof oven or a warm place to raise well; bake before the bread.

Rusks or Light Cakes.

Take of the same dough as mentioned for buns. Make the dough a little stiffer, allow it to raise well. Roll in the same manner as buns, making them smaller; set close together on a pan that has a high rim. Bake just after the bread is taken out of the oven.

Rolls.

Take out sponge before it has been thinned, add a little warm milk or water, a little soft butter or lard, a very little white sugar, and a pinch of salt. Make a rather stiff dough and work it well. Cover with a cloth, and allow it to raise well, then throw on the bench, punch together, and cut off with the scraper, and mould in small round balls. Set on the bench so they will not touch each other while raising, previously dusting the bench with flour. Cover with a cloth and allow them to set about fifteen minutes, then with a stick or the edge of the hand press down in the middle of each roll, and grease them by dipping a brush in melted butter, and greasing them in the middle; then turn over one side and press slightly with the hand.

Cinnamon Cake.

Take 5½ lbs. of the same dough as mentioned for buns, work in a handful of flour, and work the dough into nearly a square shape, a little longer than wide. Set on the bench, which should be previously dusted with flour. Allow it to remain about fifteen minutes, then roll out the size of the pan, which should be a large one, dust it slightly with flour, fold together, and lay on the pan, unfolding it again, then wash over with a brush dipped in warm milk and egg beaten up, or water and eggs. Sprinkle thick with granulated or coarse white sugar, and put little pieces of butter on the top, let it raise well and bake after the bread is taken out.

Wash to impart a gloss, to Buns, Rolls, &c.

Take a little white sugar and molasses, thin it by adding water. Dip a brush in this, and wash over the buns, rolls, &c., as soon as taken from the oven. If too sticky, more water should be added and not so much molasses.

Doughnuts.

Take bun dough, add a little flour; the dough should be a little stiffer than for buns, but not much. After the flour is worked in well, allow the dough to raise well, then throw on the bench, and work the dough into nearly a square shape. Roll about half an inch thick, cut out with a round cutter, and set in shallow wooden boxes that have been dusted with flour, and cover with another box, or lay on coarse cloths that have been slightly dusted. Cover with cloths, and when well raised fry in lard, turning them with a stick, and taking out with a skimmer, or a “lifter” made of wire.

Apple Cake

Is made of bun dough, rolled out in the same manner as cinnamon cake. Set slices of apples right close together on the cake. When the cake has risen sufficiently, beat up a few eggs, pour on some sour cream, sweeten with sugar, and flavor with cinnamon, or put on some cream cake custard. Be careful that the cake does not raise too much before putting on the apples and custard. Bake in a moderate oven.

Ferment, without Stock Yeast.

Make the ferment as heretofore mentioned, but instead of 8 lbs. flour use 4 lbs., and instead of using stock yeast put in 4 quarts ferment, or 5 quarts in winter. This ferment should be made every day. Throw in a small handful of hops in the kettle with the potatoes every other day, also a double handful of malt in the tub with the flour. Be careful not to have the mixture more than milkwarm before putting in the ferment, and allow the ferment to fall well before using. It will not generally raise very high. When sponge is set with this ferment it should be allowed to raise and fall twice before making dough. Always set as much of this ferment in a cool place as is wanted to start the fresh with.

Baking with Fleischmann’s Compressed Yeast.

Dissolve 2 oz. compressed yeast in a little milkwarm water; be very careful not to have the water warmer than milkwarm. Put this in a bucket holding 2½ gallons water, and add enough milkwarm water to fill the bucket, being careful not to spill any. Set a soft sponge with this the evening before you wish to bake. In the morning add one-half or three-quarters of a bucket of milkwarm water to the sponge, and make dough; or make a ferment as herein mentioned, and instead of using stock yeast, use ¼ lb. of compressed yeast. Be careful in winter that the bakeshop does not get too cold. If using this yeast, always allow the sponge to _raise and fall twice_ before making dough.

Where to procure Articles, Utensils, &c.

It is expected that this work will fall into the hands of many persons who wish to know where to procure articles and utensils for baking, making candies, cooking, &c. To all such I suggest to procure a copy of the “Confectioners’ Journal,” which is at present published at 501 Chestnut street, Philadelphia, and which will cost them probably 25 cents. Each number contains a collection of recipes and useful information for confectioners, bakers, cooks, &c.

Hints on Making Cakes.

Always have good flour and sieve it before using. Good packed butter is preferable to fresh for pound cakes, lady cakes, &c., as it can be beat lighter. When opening eggs, always open one or two at a time into a cup, and then empty into a larger vessel. By this method there will be no danger of having to throw away several dozen on account of a rotten one, or worse still, what is known as a “hay egg.” The white of a hay egg resembles water, but is more greenish-looking, and has an offensive smell. One hay egg is sufficient to spoil 40 lbs. of pound cake batter. I remember of getting a part of one in a batch of “rough and readys.” The cakes were put into the show case with other small cakes, and they tainted all the rest. Oil of bitter almonds, which is one of the strongest flavors for cakes known, will not remove the taste or smell of a hay egg.

Remember that cakes with molasses in, or a great deal of sugar, will be liable to burn easily. Before mixing cakes, always get everything ready for them (that is, if you have no one to assist you). First weigh the sugar, which should be sieved; then the flour, which should also be sieved. Mash soda with the pallet knife, and dissolve in the milk or water. Carbonate of ammonia should be pounded in a mortar, and sieved through a fine sieve, and kept in a wide-mouthed bottle or jar, tightly corked to exclude the air. Currants should be well washed in water, and then spread out thin on boards, and dried; when dried, put a few in the flour sieve, sprinkle a little flour on them, and rub around with the hand; pick out what stems will not go through the sieve. As a general thing, in making cakes the sugar and butter are well stirred together. The butter should be soft, but not melted. The eggs are worked in by degrees, two or three at a time, unless for a large mixture, then put in more. If the butter is hard, place in a warm room some time previous to making the cakes. If it is salty, wash it thoroughly, and press out all the water. For making cakes, have a wooden bowl of good hard wood, and nice and smooth inside. It is generally better to put cakes into the oven as soon as made, although some kinds can remain out a long time, as sugar cakes, &c. Allow cakes to cool before packing away.

Mix cakes in a bowl, stirring with the hand, unless for a small batch, then use a spatula. If you have a bakery, get walnut or tin trays made for cakes, lay the cakes in nicely, or stand on end if not liable to break; lay a sheet of paper on the bottom of the tray. There should be a sort of rack under the counter, where the trays will fit in nicely, and where it will be convenient to get at them when wanted. Cover the cakes with a cloth. Fill up a plate with each kind of cakes for the show case, by piling them up in a pyramid shape. The show case should always be well cleaned and polished, and before putting in the cakes, lay white paper on the bottom. Cakes that are sold by the slice should be cut through in the middle, such as citron, lady, Paris, &c. These cakes also present a very attractive appearance at the supper table, if cut in slices with a sharp knife, and nicely arranged on plates.

Pound Cake.

One lb. coarse pulverized sugar, ¾ lb. butter, 1 doz. eggs, 1 lb. flour, add a few drops oil of lemon. Stir the sugar and butter together until white and light, which will require twenty minutes or half an hour. Then put in 2 eggs, and beat them in pretty well. Scrape the mixture down from the side of the bowl with a pallet knife, put in two more eggs, and beat as before; and so continue on until all the eggs are in. Put in the oil of lemon, stir well, and scrape down as before. Then put in the flour. As soon as you see that the flour is well mixed in, put in moulds, and spread out smooth with the pallet knife, making the cake a little hollow in the middle, so that it will be more even when baked. The mould for a large pound cake should have a large spout; the cake will bake better, and is not so liable to be doughy in the centre. I have found good packed butter to be superior to fresh for pound cakes. Always line the moulds with a couple of thicknesses of brown paper for large pound cakes, and let them remain in the moulds over night, or until perfectly cooled. If the heat of the oven is “just right” for bread, and gives it a nice brown color, let the oven door open a short time about fifteen or twenty minutes after the bread is baked; then put in the pound cake--this is, if the oven is heated every day. If not, it will be necessary to put it in immediately after the bread. If the hearth of the oven is not level, slip a piece of wood under the mould, so the mould will stand level. If the butter is salty, wash it well in cold water, and work the water out well. The butter should be rather soft, but not melted. If the butter is hard, place in a warm room a few hours previous to making the cakes, or cut in small pieces, put in a pan, set the pan on the back part of the stove, and work with the hand until it is soft enough to be stirred with the sugar. When not baking bread, remember that a rather cool oven is required.

Lady Cake.

One lb. pulverized sugar, 1 lb. butter, 16 whites of eggs, 1¼ lbs. flour, 2 or 3 _drops_ oil of bitter almonds. Stir the sugar and butter together until white and light, then add the whites of eggs by degrees, about three at a time, stirring well each time after they are put in. Put in the oil of bitter almonds, stirring it in well, mix in the flour lightly, and bake in a cool oven about the same as for pound cake. Care should be taken not to use more of the oil of bitter almonds than mentioned, as it is very strong and poisonous; but when used in so small a quantity it will do no harm, and if objectionable use oil of lemon instead.

Fruit Cake.

One lb. brown sugar, 1 lb. butter, 1 doz. eggs, 1¼ lbs. flour, 1½ lbs. seedless raisins, 1½ lbs. currants, 1 lb. citron cut in small pieces, 1 gill brandy, and one tablespoonful each of ground cinnamon, mace, allspice, and cloves. Stir the sugar and butter together for a few minutes, then put in 2 eggs, stir a little, then 2 again, and so on until all the eggs are in: put in the spices and brandy, stir a little to mix well. Then put in the raisins, currants and citron, which should be first thoroughly mixed in a separate bowl. Put in the flour, and when it is well mixed in, put into molds that have been well greased. The lard for greasing the molds should be warmed just a little, so it can be laid on thick. Smooth the cakes out with the pallet knife, and bake in a cool oven. Bake after the pound cakes are taken out of the oven. Let the cakes remain in the mold until perfectly cold, as they are easily broken while warm. This cake will keep a long time, and is best when two or three months old.

Mountain Cake.

One lb. pulverized sugar, ¾ lb. butter, 8 eggs, 1 gill milk, a scant ½ teaspoon of soda, 1 teaspoon cream tartar, 1 lb. 3 oz. flour, a little extract of vanilla to flavor with. Dissolve the soda in the milk, put the cream tartar on a piece of paper. Stir the sugar and butter until white and light, add the eggs, 2 at a time, stirring well after they are put in (this cake does not require _quite_ as much stirring as pound cake); then stir the milk and soda and add that and the vanilla, after which the cream tartar, and then immediately mix in the flour. Mix light; put this on three sheets of brown paper, an equal amount on each sheet. Spread in a round shape, about ½ inch thick, lay each layer of cake on a pan, and bake in a moderate oven. Be careful not to get the cake the least burnt, nor dried out too much. When cool carefully tear off the paper, and put between each layer of cake a thick layer of grated cocoanut and icing. The cocoanut and icing should be previously well mixed together. Use no acetic acid nor ultramarine blue for this icing, but simply the whites of eggs and sugar, well beaten together. Flavor with a little extract of vanilla. Trim the cake nice and round with a sharp knife. Have a clean, thin, round or square board, a little wider than the cake. Cut a piece of stiff white paper the size of the board, place this on the board and set the cake on. Brush away any crumbs that may be lying around the cake. Beat 15 whites of eggs right stiff, and add 1½ lbs. pulverized sugar, adding of it about ¼ lb. while beating. Mix the sugar in lightly with a broad, thin, wooden spatula, spread this evenly on the top and sides of the cake with the pallet knife. Put this in the oven a few moments to dry a little, but don’t let it get brown. Ornament it by taking some of the icing that is left, putting in a gum sack, or one made of paper. Use a large star tube, like that used for almond puffs, to make the border. The other ornamenting should be done with a finer tube. When ornamented, dust a little with pulverized sugar, set on the peel and put in the oven. Let it remain there on the peel until a very delicate brown. The oven should be just hot enough to give it a very delicate brown color. The oven will be hot enough for some time after a batch of bread is baked. Be sure that the cocoanut is fresh and sweet, and don’t remove the cake from the board, as the icing is easily broken, but set on the cake-stand with the board. Have the cocoanut and icing which is put between the layers a rather stiff paste. If it is too soft, the layers of cake are liable to slide. If too stiff, it does not taste as nice and dries out soon. This cake should not be kept longer than two or three days before it is eaten. The reason it is named Mountain Cake is, I suppose, because it is nice for pic-nics “on the mountain.” However, by using enough layers, a mountain can be made of it.

Paris Cake.

1¼ lbs. white sugar, ¼ lb. butter, 15 eggs, and the yolks of 8 more, 1¼ lbs. corn starch; beat the sugar and eggs together until when the beater is raised above the mixture, the mixture falling from the beater will lay on top of the other a few moments without sinking down. Have the butter melted to a thick oil. Take the beater out of the mixture, and put in a little oil of lemon to flavor, pour in the butter and stir with a spatula, after which mix in the corn starch, pour quickly in small pans. Have the mixture about 1½ inches or 2 inches thick in the pans. The pans should hold from ½ lb. to about 1½ lbs. of the mixture. Put in the oven as soon as possible, which should be about the same heat as for sponge cakes, or a trifle hotter. After they are baked turn out of the mould on a tray, and when cool, ice over and mark in slices. This makes a splendid-looking cake when cut in slices with a sharp knife. Don’t attempt to make a large cake of this mixture, as the butter will sink to the bottom of the cake, and it will not be fit to eat. Some bakers use ½ flour instead of corn starch.

Jelly Cake.

One lb. white sugar, ¾ lb. butter, 1¼ lbs. flour, ¼ oz. carbonate of ammonia, oil of lemon to flavor. Mix as mountain cake. Make four layers, and when baked put jelly between the layers, and trim nice and round with a sharp knife.

Large Sponge Cake.

One lb. white sugar, 1 doz. eggs, 1 lb. flour, a little oil of lemon to flavor. Beat the sugar and eggs together, until when the beater is raised above the mixture, the mixture falling from the beater will lay on top of the other a moment without sinking. Add the oil of lemon, mix in the flour lightly but thoroughly. Bake in a very moderate oven. Don’t allow it to stand in the mould after it is baked.

Drop Cakes.

One lb. white sugar, ¾ lb. butter, 1 pint sweet milk or water, ½ oz. carbonate of ammonia, light weight, 2 lbs. 2 oz. flour, a little oil of lemon to flavor. Stir the sugar and butter together for about ten minutes; then add the eggs 2 at a time, and stirring well each time after adding them. When the eggs are well mixed in, put in the water and the flavor. Mix the flour in well, beating it in a little. Drop out with a tablespoon on pans that have been slightly greased, and bake in a medium hot oven. Should the hearth of the oven be very hot, so as to burn the cakes at the bottom, put the pan that the mixture is dropped out on another pan. Good leaf lard can also be used; if using lard, use milk instead of water, and put in also a pinch of salt with the lard. These cakes also look well baked in small scalloped moulds (Patty pans). A few currants may be put on each cake if desired.

Lady Fingers.

One lb. white sugar, 1 doz. eggs, 1 lb. 1 oz. flour, a few drops oil of lemon. Beat the sugar and eggs together, until when the beater is raised above the mixture and run around, the mixture will lie on top a short time without sinking. Have ready a sack made in a conical shape, with an opening large enough to admit a tin tube without letting the tube slip through. Put a stopper of wood or a piece of paper in the tube, to prevent the mixture from falling through. Secure the sack to the bench by laying a 4 lb. weight on the corner of it. Open it out, and it is ready to put in the mixture. Have also some sheets of brown paper, a good quality of ordinary wrapping paper. Smooth out nicely, and cut a little smaller than the size of the pans. Also some pulverized sugar and a fine sieve. When the sugar and eggs are beaten as mentioned, put in the oil of lemon. Mix in the flour lightly but well. Mix the flour with the hand or a spatula. Fill the sack about three-fourths full of the mixture, and run out the lady fingers on the paper, in a long narrow shape, about 2 inches long, and 1 inch apart. Sieve pulverized sugar on immediately, and take the paper by the ends nearest you, lift up and let the sugar run to the other side. Then take the ends farthest from you, and lift the paper up altogether, so the sugar falls off. Put on the pan, and blow off any sugar that may be on the paper or pan. Bake in a pretty hot oven, until of a nice light brown color. Always run out the lady fingers and bake as soon as possible after the flour is mixed in, or they will crack on top and not look nice. When cool, turn over on the bench and wash over with a brush dipped in water. Spread with jelly and stick together. Always pick out two as near the same size as possible. Don’t pile them high on a plate or tray.

Lemon Cakes.

1½ lbs. white sugar, 1 lb. butter, 4 eggs, ½ pint water, 3¼ lbs. flour, ½ oz., light weight, carbonate of ammonia. Flavor pretty strong with oil of lemon. Stir the sugar and butter together a few minutes, then stir in the eggs, after which add the water and oil of lemon. Mix in the flour lightly, and roll out in long rolls about the thickness of a broomstick. Cut in pieces about the size of a walnut with the scraper, and roll lengthwise with the hand; roll them so they will be thick in the middle and narrowing to a point at the ends. Throw on them coarse dry sifted sugar, press slightly, and lay on pans that have been slightly greased. Don’t set close together, as they spread a great deal. Keep the sugared side uppermost. Bake in a pretty hot oven, to a very light brown color, being careful that they will not get burnt black at the bottom.

Sponge Biscuit.

One lb. white sugar, 1 doz. eggs, 1¼ lbs. flour, ¼ oz., strong weight, carbonate of ammonia, oil of lemon to flavor. Beat the sugar and eggs together about the same as for sponge cake; when beaten as described, add the carbonate of ammonia and oil of lemon, stir in well with the beater, after which mix in the flour, and drop out with a spoon on very slightly greased pans. Drop small and a good distance apart from each other. Bake in a rather cool oven, and as they are taken out of the oven cut them loose from the pans with a pallet knife. These are nice cakes, but they dry out soon, and therefore should be baked very light.

Cream Puffs.

One lb. 2 oz. flour, 10 oz. best leaf lard, 1 qt. water; let the water and lard come to a boil in a sauce pan. As soon as the lard is melted, which may be known by stirring with a spatula (have the flour sieved and in a scoop ready to put in), and while the lard and water is boiling briskly, with the left hand set the pan on the edge of the stove, and with the right empty in the flour immediately, and stir right brisk for a few minutes with a spatula. Take off the stove and put in 3 eggs and a scant ½ oz. carbonate of ammonia; stir well. It will require about 20 eggs, putting in 3 at a time. Scrape the mixture down from the sides of the pan, and stir thoroughly each time 3 eggs are put in. When 18 of the eggs are in, drop a medium heaped tablespoonful of the mixture on a pie plate and put in the oven. Should the cake remain small and not raise much, stir in more eggs, being careful not to get in too many, as in that case the cakes will run out flat. Drop on pans very slightly greased, a good distance apart, and bake in a hot oven (just before putting in bread). If not baked sufficiently, they will fall shortly after being taken from the oven. When baked take a thin sharp knife and cut in at the side of the cake, about half way through. Hold the cake up sideways in the left hand, holding the top up with the thumb and finger, and put in a tablespoonful of custard with the right. They will not keep more than about a day in the summer when filled with custard.

Custard for Cream Puffs.

One-half gallon sweet milk, ¾ lb. white sugar, 9 eggs, ½ lb. corn starch or flour. Stir the sugar, eggs and corn starch together until smooth. As soon as the milk boils pour this in quickly, and set to the edge of the stove, stirring briskly with a paddle, to prevent burning. When cool flavor with vanilla or lemon.

Small Sponge Cake.

One lb. white sugar, 1 doz. eggs, 1 lb. 1 oz. flour, a few drops oil of lemon. Beat the sugar and eggs together until when the beater is raised a little above the mixture, and run around, the mixture falling from the beater will lay on the top of the rest for a moment without sinking right away. Mix in the flour light but thoroughly. The moulds should be a little longer than wide, and hold about a tablespoonful. Bake in a medium hot oven.

Cup Cake.

1½ lbs. white sugar, 1 lb. butter, 1 pint eggs, 1 pint sweet milk, 2¾ lbs. flour, the weight of one copper penny of soda and two of cream tartar. Put into round tin moulds holding about ½ lb. each, and bake in a moderately cool oven.

Brown Scotch Cake, No. 1.

Two lbs. brown sugar, 1 lb. butter, 4 eggs, ½ teaspoon soda, a very little water--about ½ gill--2¼ lbs. flour. Flavor strong with ground cinnamon. Mix and cut out rather thin with a square cutter. Don’t roll out much of the mixture at a time, as it is _short_ and rather hard to cut out, and don’t set the cakes very close together on the pans. Grease the pans very slightly, and bake in a moderate oven to a nice brown color.

Brown Scotch Cake, No. 2.

Two lbs. brown sugar, ½ lb. butter, 3 lbs. flour, a little ground cinnamon, enough molasses to make a rather stiff dough. Roll and cut out with a round cutter. Grease the pans slightly, and bake in a moderate oven.

White Jumbles.

One lb. 2 oz. white sugar, 10 oz. butter, 1 pint water or sweet milk (scant measure), a very little carbonate of ammonia, about a scant ½ oz., 4 eggs, oil of lemon, 2¼ lbs. flour. Stir the sugar and butter together a few minutes, then put in the eggs, 2 at a time, stirring them in well. Add the carbonate of ammonia, and oil of lemon and water, stir a little and add the flour. Don’t mix more than is necessary to get the flour mixed in, or they will be tough. Squeeze through a sack in the same manner as lady fingers, substituting a “jumble tube” instead of a plain one (a plain one will do). Form into large rings on pans that have been very slightly greased. If squeezed through a “jumble machine,” about ¼ lb. more flour should be added, and then make in long strips on the bench, previously dusting the bench with flour. Cut in strips 4 or 5 inches long, and lay on the pans, forming rings. Bake in a hot oven, and slip another pan under each pan of jumbles before putting in the oven, to prevent them from burning.

Brown Jumbles.

Brown sugar 1½ lbs., lard ¾ lb., 6 eggs, ½ oz. carbonate of ammonia, 1 pint sweet milk, 3¼ lbs. flour, about ½ oz. ground cinnamon. Stir the butter and sugar together, add the eggs, 2 at a time, stirring well each time after they are put in; then add the carbonate of ammonia, milk and cinnamon. Stir well and mix in the flour. Don’t mix longer than is necessary to have it well mixed in. Sift a little granulated sugar on the bench, and press the mixture through a jumble machine on the sugar in long strips. Cut in pieces about 4 or 5 inches long, forming rings, and set on slightly greased pans, keeping them a good distance apart, and keep the sugared side of the jumbles uppermost. Bake in a moderately hot oven.

White Scotch Cakes.

1½ lbs. white sugar, 1 lb. butter, 4 eggs, a little over a gill sweet milk or water, ¼ oz. carbonate of ammonia, 2½ lbs. flour, and a little oil of lemon to flavor. Stir the sugar and butter together, add the eggs, stir well, then the carbonate of ammonia, milk and oil of lemon, after which the flour. Mix and roll out thin, and cut out with a rather small round cutter. Don’t roll out much of the mixture at a time, put on slightly greased pans, and bake in a cool oven.

Wine Cake.

Four lbs. pulverized sugar, 2 lbs. butter, 2 doz. eggs, 2 oz. soda, 4 oz. cream tartar, 2 qts. sweet milk, 1 qt. water, as much flour as will make a soft dough. Mix as pound cake, but not stirring as much. Beat the flour in well, and flavor with oil of lemon, or leave out a little of the water, and substitute wine. Put in round moulds, holding about ½ or ¾ of a pound of the mixture; moderately cool oven.

Molasses Cup Cake.

One qt. N. O. molasses, 1 doz. eggs, 1¾ qts. sweet milk, 1 oz. soda, and 1 oz. carbonate of ammonia; a little butter or lard may be added. Flavor with oil of lemon. Put in enough sieved flour to make a soft dough, being careful not to get it too stiff. Beat the flour in well, and bake in small scalloped moulds in a moderate oven.

Taylor Cake, No. 1.

One-half lb. brown sugar, ¾ lb. butter, 6 eggs, 1 qt. New Orleans molasses, a scant pint of water, 2 oz. soda, about ½ oz. ground ginger, and ¼ oz. ground allspice, 3½ lbs. flour. Stir the sugar and butter together for a few moments, then add the spices, molasses, water and soda. Stir well, and then put in the flour; when well mixed in, put in the eggs, and stir the mixture right well, scraping down from the sides of the bowl occasionally with the pallet knife. Drop on slightly greased pans, or in Patty pans, and bake in a moderate oven. Bake light, as they are easily burnt at the bottom.

Taylor Cake, No. 2.

Stir the sugar and butter, add the 6 eggs by degrees, adding 8 instead of 6, beating up well, then put in the molasses, spices, water and soda. Stir a little, and then put in the flour. Mix lightly. Bake as No. 1.

Chocolate Sponge Drop.