Chapter VII: Part 7
"M. de Jussieu found in the environs of St. Chaumont a great quantity of slaty or foliated stones, every foliage of which was marked with the impression of a branch, a leaf, or the fragment of a leaf of some plant: the representations of leaves were exactly extended, as if they had been carefully spread on the stone by the hand; this proves they had been brought thither by the water, which always keeps leaves in that state: they were in different situations, sometimes two or three together. It may easily be supposed that a leaf deposited by water upon soft mud, and afterwards covered with another layer of mud, imprints on the upper the image of one of its two surfaces, and on the under the image of the other; and on being hardened and petrified would appear to have taken different impressions; but, however natural this supposition may be, the fact is not so, for the two laminæ of stone bear impressions of the same side of the leaf, the one in alto, the other in bas releaf. It was M. Jussieu who made these observations on the figured stones of St. Chaumont; to him we shall leave the explication, and pass to objects which are more general and interesting.
"All the impressions on the stones of St. Chaumont are of foreign plants; they are not to be found in any part of France, but only in the East Indies or the hot climates of America; they are for the most part capillary plants, generally of the species of fern, whose hard and compact coat renders them more able to imprint and preserve themselves. Some leaves of Indian plants imprinted on the stones of Germany appeared astonishing to M. Leibnitz, but here we find the same wonderful affair infinitely multiplied. There even seems in this respect to be an unaccountable destination of nature, for in all the stones of St. Chaumont not a single plant of the country has been found.
"It is certain, by the number of fossil-shells in the quarries and mountains, that this country, as well as many others, must have formerly been covered with the sea. But how has the American or Indian sea reached thither? To explain this, and many other wonderful phenomena, it may be supposed, with much probability, that the sea originally covered the whole terrestrial globe: but this supposition will not hold good, because how were terrestrial plants to exist? It evidently, therefore, must have been great inundations which have conveyed the plants of one country into the others.
"M. de Jussieu thinks, that as the bed of the sea is continually rising, in consequence of the mud and sand which the rivers incessantly convey there, the sea, at first confined between natural dykes, surmounted them, and was dispersed over the land, and that the dykes were themselves undermined by the waters and overthrown therein. In the earliest time of the formation of the earth, when no one thing had taken a regular form, prodigious and sudden revolutions might then have been made, of which we no longer have examples, because the whole is now in such a permanent state, that the changes must be inconsiderable and by degrees.
"By some of these great revolutions the East and West Indian seas may have been driven to Europe, and carried with them foreign plants floating on its waters, which they tore up in their road, and deposited gently in places where the water was but shallow and would soon evaporate."
FOOTNOTES:
[220:A] Anno 1720; page 5.
[227:A] A kind of soft gravelly stone.
[233:A] On this subject see Stenon, Ray, Woodward, and others.
[234:A] See Shaw's Voyages, Vol. ii, pages 40 and 41.
[237:A] See Shaw's Travels.
[240:A] Thevenot, Vol. I, page 25.
[240:B] Voyage of Paul Lucus, Vol. II, page 380.
ARTICLE IX.
ON THE INEQUALITIES OF THE SURFACE OF THE EARTH.
The inequalities which are on the surface of the earth, and which might be regarded as an imperfection to its figure, are necessary to preserve vegetation and life on the terrestrial globe. To be assured of this, it is only requisite to conceive what the earth would be if it was even and regular. Instead of agreeable hills, from whence pure streams of waters flow, to support the verdure of the earth; instead of those rich and flourishing meadows, where plants and animals find agreeable subsistence; a dismal sea would cover the whole globe, and the earth, deprived of all its valuable qualities, would only remain an obscure and forsaken planet, at best only destined for the abode of fishes.
But independent of moral considerations, which seldom form a proof in philosophy, there is a physical necessity why the earth must be irregular on its surface; for supposing it was perfectly regular in its origin, the motion of the waters, the subterraneous fires, the wind, and other external causes, would, in course of time, have necessarily produced irregularities similar to those now seen.
The greatest inequalities next to the elevations of mountains, are the depths of the ocean; this depth is very different even at great distances from land; it is said there are parts above a league deep, but those are few, and the most general depths are from 60 to 150 fathoms. The gulphs bordering on the coasts are much less deep, and the straits are generally the most shallow.
To sound the depths of the sea, a piece of lead of 30 or 40lb. is made use of, fastened to a small cord; this is a good method for common depths, but is not to be depended upon when the depth is considerable; because the cord being specifically lighter than the water, after it has descended to a certain degree, the weight of the lead and that of the cord is no more than a like volume of water; then the lead descends no longer, but moves in an oblique line, and floats at the same depth: to sound great depths, therefore, an iron chain is requisite, or some substance heavier than water. It is very probable that for want of considering this circumstance, navigators tell us that the sea in many places has no bottom.
In general, the profundities in open seas increase or diminish in a pretty uniform manner, and commonly the farther from shore the greater the depth; yet this is not without exception, there are places in the midst of the sea where shoals are found, as at Abrolhos in the Atlantic; and others where there are banks of a very considerable extent, as are daily experienced by the navigators to the East Indies.
So likewise along shore the depths are very unequal, nevertheless we may lay it down as a certain rule, that the depth there is always proportionate to the height of that shore. It is the same in great rivers, where the high shores always announce a great depth.
It is more easy to measure the heights of mountains, whether by means of practical geometry, or by the barometer. This instrument gives the height of a mountain very exactly, especially in a country where its variation is not considerable, as at Peru, and under the other parts of the equator. By one or other of these methods, the height of most eminences has been measured; for example, it has been found that the highest mountains of Switzerland are about 1600 fathoms higher than Canigau, which is one of the most elevated of the Pyrennees; those mountains appear to be the highest in Europe, since a great quantity of rivers flow from them, which carry their water into very remote and different seas, as the Po, which flows into the Adriatic; the Rhine, which loses itself in the sands in Holland; the Rhone, which falls into the Mediterranean; and the Danube, which goes to the Black Sea. These four rivers, whose mouths are so remote from each other, all derive a part of their waters from Mount Saint Godard and the neighbouring mountain, which proves that this place is the highest in all Europe. The highest mountains in Asia are Mount Taurus, Mount Imaus, Caucasus, and the mountains of Japan, all which are loftier than those of Europe; the mountains in Africa, as the Great Atlas, and the mountains of the Moon, are at least as high as those in Asia, and the highest of all are in South America, particularly those of Peru, which are more than 3000 fathoms above the level of the sea. In general the mountains between the tropics are loftier than those of the temperate zones, and these more than the frigid zones, so that the nearer we approach the equator, the greater are the inequalities of the earth. These inequalities, although very considerable with respect to us, are scarcely any thing when considered with respect to the whole globe. Three thousand fathom difference to 3000 leagues diameter, is but one fathom to a league, or one foot to 2200 feet, which on a globe of 2-1/2 feet diameter, does not make the 16th part of a French line. Thus the earth, which appears to us crossed and intersected by the enormous height of mountains, and by a frightful depth of sea, is nevertheless, relative to its size, but slightly furrowed with irregularities, so very trifling, that they can cause no difference to the general figure of the globe. In continents the mountains are continued and form chains. In islands, they are more interrupted, and generally raised above the sea, in the forms of cones or pyramids, and are called peaks. The peak of Teneriffe, in the island of Fer, is one of the highest mountains on the earth; it is near a league and a half perpendicular above the level of the sea; the peak of St. George, in one of the Azores, and the peak of Adam, in the island of Ceylon, are also very lofty. These peaks are composed of rocks, heaped one upon the other, and they vomit from their summits fire, cinders, bitumen, minerals, and stones. There are islands which are only tops of mountains, as of St. Helena, Ascension, most of the Azores, and Canaries. We must remark, that in most of the islands, promontories, and other projecting lands in the sea, the middle is always the highest; and they are generally separated by chains of mountains, which divide them in their greatest length, as (Gransbain) the Grampian mountains in Scotland, which extend from east to west, and divide Great Britain into two parts. It is the same with the islands of Sumatra, Lucca, Borneo, Celebes, Cuba, St. Domingo, and the peninsula of Malaya, &c. and also Italy, which is traversed through its whole length by the Apennine mountains.
Mountains, as we find, differ greatly in height; the hills are lowest, after them come the mountains of a moderate height, which are followed by a third rank still higher, which, like the preceding, are generally loaded with trees and plants, but which furnish no springs except at their bottoms. In the highest mountains we find only sand, stones, flints, and rocks, whose summits often rise above the clouds. Exactly at the foot of these rocks there are small spaces, plains, hollows, and kinds of vallies, where the rain, snow, and ice remain, and form ponds, morasses, and springs, from whence rivers derive their origin.
The form of mountains is also very different: some form chains whose height is nearly equal in a long extent of soil, others are divided by deep vallies; some are regular, and others as irregular as possible; and sometimes in the middle of a valley or plain, we find a little mountain. There are also two sorts of plains, the one in the low lands, the other in mountains. The first are generally divided by some large river: the others, though of a very considerable extent, are dry, and at farthest have only a small rivulet. These plains on mountains are often very high, and difficult of access; they form countries above other countries, as in Auvergne, Savoy, and many other high places: the soil is firm, and produces much grass, and odoriferous plants, which render these plains the best pasture in the world.
The summits of high mountains are composed of rocks of different heights, which resemble from a distance the waves of the sea. It is not on this observation alone we can rely that the mountains have been formed by the waves, I only relate it because it accords with the rest: but that which evidently proves that the sea once covered and formed mountains, are the shells and other marine productions found throughout in such great quantities, that it is not possible for them to have been transported by the sea into such remote continents, and deposited to such considerable depths; to this may be added, the horizontal and parallel strata every where met with, and which can only have been formed by the waters. The composition even of the hardest matters, as stone and marble, prove they had been reduced into fine powder before their formation, and precipitated to the bottom of the water in form of a sediment: it is also proved by the exactness with which fossil-shells are moulded in those matters in which they are found; the inside of these shells are absolutely filled with the same matters as that in which they are enclosed; the corresponding angles of mountains and hills, which no other cause than the currents of the sea could have been able to form; the equality in the height of opposite hills, and beds of different matters, formed at the same levels, and, in short, the direction of mountains, whose chains extend in length in the same direction as the waves of the sea extend, incontestibly demonstrate the fact.
With respect to the depths on the surface of the earth, the greatest, without contradiction, are the depths of the sea; but as they do not present themselves to our sight, and as we can only judge of them by the plumb line, we shall only speak of those which appear on dry land, such as the deep vallies between mountains, the precipices between rocks, the abysses perceived from the tops of mountains, as the abyss of Mount Ararat, the precipices of the Alps, the vallies of the Pyrennees, &c. These depths are a natural consequence of the elevation of mountains; they receive the waters and the earth which flow from the mountains, and the soil is generally very fertile, and are fully inhabited.
The precipices which are between rocks are frequently formed by the sinking of one side, the base of which sometimes gives way more on one side than the other, by the action of the air and frost, which splits and divides them, or by the impetuous violence of torrents. But these abysses, or vast and enormous precipices, found at the summits of mountains, and to the bottom of which it is not possible sometimes to descend, although they are above a mile, or a mile and a half round, have been formed by the fire. These were formerly the funnels of volcanos, and all the matter which is there deficient has been ejected by the action and explosion of these fires, which are since extinguished through a defect of combustible matter. The abyss of Mount Ararat, of which M. Tournefort gives a description in his voyage to the Levant, is surrounded with black and burnt rocks, as one day the abysses of Etna, Vesuvius, and other volcanos, will be, when they have consumed all the combustible matters they include.
In Plots' Natural History of Staffordshire, in England, a kind of gulph is spoken of which has been sounded to the depth of 2600 perpendicular feet without meeting with any water, or the bottom being found, as the rope was not of sufficient length to reach it.
Greatest cavities and deepest mines are generally in mountains, and they never descend to a level with the plains, therefore by these cavities we are only acquainted with the inside of a mountain, and not with the internal part of the globe itself.
Besides, these depths are not very considerable. Ray asserts that the deepest mines are not above half a mile deep. The mine of Cotteberg, which in the time of Agricola passed for the deepest of all known mines, was only 2500 feet perpendicular. It is evident there are holes in certain places, as that in Staffordshire, or Pool's Hole, in Derbyshire, the depth of which is perhaps greater; but all this is nothing in comparison with the thickness of the globe.
If the kings of Egypt, instead of having erected pyramids, and raised such sumptuous monuments of their riches and vanity, had been at the same expence to sound the earth, and make a deep excavation to the depth of a league, they, perhaps, might have found substances which would have amply recompensed the trouble, labour, and expence, or at least we should have received information on the matters of which the internal part of the globe is composed, which might have been very useful, and which we at present have not.
But let us return to the mountains; the highest are in the southern countries, and the nearer we approach the equator, the more inequalities we find on the surface of the globe. This is easy to prove, by a short enumeration of the mountains and islands.
In America, the chain of the Cordeliers, the highest mountains of the earth, is exactly under the equator, and extends on the two sides far beyond the tropic circles.
In Africa, the highest mountains of the Moon, and Monomotapa, the great and the little Atlas, are under the equator, or not far from it.
In Asia, Mount Caucasus, the chain of which extends under different names as far as the mountains of China, is nearer the equator than the poles.
In Europe, the Pyrennees, the Alps, and mountains of Greece, which are only the same chain, are still less distant from the equator than the poles.
Now these mountains which we have enumerated, are all higher, more considerable and extended in length and breadth than the mountains of the northern countries.
With respect to their direction, the Alps form a chain which crosses the whole continent from Spain to China. These mountains begin at the sea coast of Galicia, reach to the Pyrennees, cross France, by Vivares, and Auvergne, pass through Italy and extend into Germany, beyond Dalmatia, as far as Macedonia; from thence they join with the mountains of Armenia, Caucasus, Taurus, Imaus, and extend as far as the Tartarian sea. So likewise Mount Atlas traverses the whole continent of Africa, from west to east, from the kingdom of Fez to the Straits of the Red Sea; and the mountains of the Moon have the same direction.
But in America, the direction is quite contrary, and the chains of the Cordeliers and other mountains extend from south to north more than from east to west.
What we have now said on the great eminences of the earth, may also be observed on the greatest depths of the sea. The vast and highest seas are nearer the equator than the poles; and there results from this observation, that the greatest inequalities of the globe are in the southern climate. These irregularities on the surface of the earth, are the causes of an infinity of extraordinary effects: for example, between the Indus and the Ganges, there is a large peninsula, which is divided through its middle, by a chain of high mountains called the Gate, and which extends from north to south, from the extremities of Mount Caucasus to Cape Comorin; on one is the coast of Malabar, and the other Coromandel; on the side of Malabar, between this chain of mountains and the sea, the summer season lasts from September to April, during which the sky is serene and dry; on the other side the Coromandel the above period is their winter, and it rains every day plentifully and from the month of April to the month of September is their summer, whereas it is winter in Malabar; insomuch, that in many places, which are scarcely 20 miles distant, we may, by crossing the mountains, change seasons. It is said that the same thing takes place at Razalgat in Arabia, and at Jamaica, which is divided through its middle by a chain of mountains, whose direction is from east to west, and that the plantations to the south of these mountains feel the summer heat, at the time those to the north endure the rigor of winter.
Peru, which is situated under the line, and extends about a thousand leagues to the south, is divided into three long and narrow parts; these the natives call Lanos, Sierras, and Andes. The Lanos, which comprehends the plains, extends along the coast of the South Sea: the Sierras are hills with some vallies, and the Andes are the famous Cordeliers, the highest mountains that are known. The Lanos is about ten leagues in breadth; in many places the Sierras are twenty leagues broad, and the Andes in some places more and in some less. The breadth is from east to west, and the length from north to south. This part of the world is remarkable for the following particulars: first, in the Lanos the wind almost constantly blows from the south-west, which is contrary to what happens in the torrid zone: secondly, it never rains nor thunders in the Lanos, although there is plenty of dew: thirdly, it almost continually rains in the Andes: fourthly, in the Sierras, between the Lanos and the Andes, it rains from September to April.
It was for a long time supposed, that the chains of the high mountains run from west to east, till the contrary was found in America. But no person before M. Bourguet discovered the surprising regularity of the structure of those great masses: he found (after having crossed the Alps thirty times in fourteen different parts of it, twice over the Apennine mountains, and made divers tours in the environs of these mountains, and of Mount Jura) that all mountains are formed nearly after the manner of works of a fortification. When the body of the mountain runs from east to west, it forms prominences, which face the north and south; this wonderful regularity is so striking in vallies, that we seem to walk in a very regular covered way; if, for example, we travel in a valley from north to south, we perceive that the mountain on the right forms projections which front the east, and those of the mountain on the left front the west, so that the saliant angles of one side reciprocally answer the returning angles of the other, which are always alternatively opposed to them. The angles which mountains form in great vallies are less acute, because the direction is less steep, and they are farther distant from each other. In plains they are not so perceptible, except by the banks of rivers, which are generally in the middle of them, and whose natural windings answer the most advanced angles or striking projections of the mountains. It is astonishing so visible a thing was so long unobserved, for when in a valley the inclination of one of the mountains which border it is less steep than that of the other, the river takes its course much nearer the steepest mountain, and does not flow through its middle.
To these observations we may join other particular ones, which confirm them; for example, the mountains of Switzerland are much more steep, and their direction much greater on the south side than on the north, and on the west side than on the east. This may be perceived in the mountains of Gemmi, Brisa, and almost every other mountain in this country. The highest are those which separate Valesia and the Grisons from Savoy, Piedmont, and Tirol. These countries are only a continuation of these mountains, the chain of which extends to the Mediterranean, and continues even pretty far under the sea. The Pyrennees are also only a continuation of that vast mountain which begins in Upper Valesia, and whose branches extend very far to the west and south, preserving throughout the same great height; whereas on the side of the north and of the east these mountains grow lower by degrees, till they become plains; as we see by the large tract which the Rhine and Danube water before they reach their mouths, whereas the Rhone descends with rapidity towards the south into the Mediterranean. The same observation is found to hold good in the mountains of England and Norway; but the part of the world where this is most evidently seen is at Peru and Chili; the Cordeliers are cut very sharply on the western side, the length of the Pacific Ocean, whereas on the eastern side they lower by degrees into large plains, watered by the greatest rivers of the world.[279:A]
M. Bourguet, to whom we owe this great discovery of the correspondence of the angles of mountains, terms it "_The Key of the Theory of the Earth_;" nevertheless, it appears to me, that if he had conceived all the importance of it, he would more successfully have made use of it, by connecting it with suitable facts, and would have given a more probable theory of the earth; whereas in his treatise he presents only the skeleton of an hypothetical system, most of the conclusions of which are false or precarious. The theory we have given turns on four principal facts, which cannot be doubted, after the proofs have been examined on which they are founded. The first is, that the earth is every where, and to considerable depths, composed of parallel strata, and matters which have formerly been in a state of softness: the second, that the sea has for ages covered the earth which we now inhabit; the third, that the tides and other motions of the waters produce inequalities at the bottom of the sea; and the fourth, that the mountains have taken their form and the correspondent direction from the currents of the sea.
After having read the proofs which the following articles contain, it may be determined, whether I was wrong to assert, that these circumstances solidly established also ascertains the truth of the theory of the earth. What I have said on the formation of mountains has no need of a more ample explanation; but as it might be objected that I do not assign a reason for the formation of the peaks or points of mountains, no more than for some other particular circumstances, shall add the observations and reflections which I have made on this subject.
I have endeavoured to form a clear and general idea of the manner in which the different matters that compose the earth are arranged, and it appears to me they may be reduced into two general classes; the first includes all the matters we find placed in strata, or beds horizontally or regularly inclined; and the second comprehends all matters formed in masses, or in veins, either perpendicular or irregularly inclined. In the first class are included sands, clays, granite, flints, free-stone, coals, slates, marls, chalks, calcinable stones, marbles, &c. In the second I rank metals, minerals, crystals, precious stones and small flints: these two classes generally comprehend all the known materials of the earth. The first owe their origin to the sediments carried away and deposited by the sea, and should be distinguished into those which being assayed in the fire, calcine and are reduced into lime, and those which fuse and are convertible into glass. The materials of the second class are all vitrifiable excepting those which the fire entirely consumes by inflammation.
In the first class we distinguish two kinds of sands; the one, which is more abundant than any other matter of the globe, is vitrifiable, or rather is only fragments of actual glass; the other, whose quantity is much less, is calcinable, and must be looked upon as the powder of stone, and which differs only from gravel by the size of the grains. The vitrifiable sand is, in general, deposited in beds, which are often interrupted by masses of free-stone, granite, and flint; and sometimes these matters are also in banks of great extent.
By examining these vitrifiable matters, we find only a few sea shells there, and those not placed in beds, but dispersed about as if thrown there by chance. For example, I have never seen them in free-stone; that stone which is very plenty in certain places, is only composed of sandy parts, which are re-united, and are only met with in sandy soils; and the quarries of it are generally in peaked hills and in divided eminences. We may work these quarries in all directions, and if they are in large beds, they are much farther from each other than in quarries of calcinable stone or marble. Blocks of free-stone may be cut of all dimensions and in all directions, although it is difficult to work, it nevertheless has but a degree of hardness sufficient to resist powerful strokes without splitting; for friction easily reduces it into sand, excepting certain black pieces found therein, and which are so very hard, that the best files cannot touch them. Rock is vitrifiable as free-stone, and of the same nature, only it is harder and the parts more connected. This also contains many hard pieces, as may easily be remarked on the summits of high mountains, which cut and tear the shoes of travellers. This rocky stone, which is found at the top of high mountains, and which I look upon as a kind of granite, contains a great quantity of talky leaves, and is so hard as not to be worked but by an infinite deal of labour.
I have narrowly examined these sharp pieces which are found in free-stone and rock, and have discovered it to be a metallic matter, melted and calcined by a very violent fire, and which perfectly resembles certain substances thrown out by the volcanos, of which I saw a great quantity when I was in Italy, where the people called them Schiarri. They are very heavy black masses, on which neither water nor the file can make any impression, and the matter of which is different from that of the lava; for this is a kind of glass, whereas the other appears to be more metallic than vitreous. The sharp pieces in free-stone, and rock, resemble greatly the first matter, which seems still to prove that all these matters have been formerly liquified by fire.
We sometimes see on the upper parts of mountains, a prodigious quantity of blocks of this mixed rock; their position is so irregular that they appear to have been thrown there by chance, and it might be thought they had fallen from some neighbouring height, if the places where they are found were not raised above the other parts. But their vitrifiable nature, and their angular and square figures, like those of free-stone, discover them to be of one common origin. Thus in the great beds of vitrifiable sand, blocks of free-stone and rock are formed, whose figures and situations do not exactly follow the horizontal position of these strata. The rain, by degrees, carried away from the summits of the hills and mountains the sand which at first covered them, and then began to furrow and cut those hills into the spaces which are found between the nucleus in free-stone, as the hills of Fontainbleau are intersected. Each hilly point answers to a nucleus in a quarry of free-stone, and each interval has been excavated and loosened by the rain, which has caused the sand, they at first contained, to flow into the vallies; so likewise the highest mountains, whose summits are composed of rocks, and terminated by these angular blocks of granite, have formerly been covered with vitrifiable sand, and the rain having carried away the sand which covered them, they remained on the tops of the mountains in the position they were formed. These blocks generally present points; they increase in size in proportion as they descend; one block often rests upon another, the second upon a third, and so on, leaving irregular intervals between them: and as in time the rain washed away all the sand which covered these different parts on the top of the high mountains, they would remain naked, forming larger or lesser points; and this is the origin of the peaks or horns of mountains.
For supposing, as it is easy to prove by the marine productions we find there, that the chain of the Alps was formerly covered by the sea, and that above this chain there was a great thickness of vitrifiable sand, which rendered the whole mountains a flat and level country. In this depth of sand, there would necessarily be formed granite, free-stone, flint, and all matters which take their origin and figure in sand, nearly in a similar manner to that of the crystallisation of salts. These blocks once formed would support their original positions, after the rains and torrents had carried away the sand which surrounded them, and being left bare formed all those peaks or pointed eminences we see in so many places. This is also the origin of those high and detached rocks found in China and other countries, as in Ireland, where they are called the Devil's stones, and whose formation as well as that of the peaks of mountains, had hitherto appeared so difficult to explain; nevertheless the explanation which I have given is so natural, that it directly presents itself to the mind of those who examine these objects, and I must here quote what Father Tatre says, "From Yanchu-in-yen, we came to Hoytcheou, and on the road met with something particular, rocks of an extraordinary height, of the shape of a large square tower, and situate in the midst of vast plains: I cannot account for it, unless by supposing they were formerly mountains, from which the rain having washed away the earth that surrounded them, thus left the rocks entirely bare. What strengthens this conjecture is, that we saw some which, towards the base, are still covered with earth to a considerable height."
The summits of the highest mountains are composed of rocks, of granite, free-stone, and other hard and vitrifiable matters, and this often as deep as two or three hundred fathoms; below which we often meet with quarries of marble, or hard stone, filled with fossil-shells, and whose matter is calcinable; as may be remarked at Great Chartreuse, in Dauphiny, and on Mount Cenis, where the stone and marble, which contains shells, are some hundred fathoms below the summits, points and peaks of high mountains; although these stones are more than a thousand fathom above the level of the sea. Thus mountains, whereon we see points or peaks, are generally vitrifiable rock, and those whose summits are flat, mostly contain marble and hard stones filled with marine productions. It is the same with respect to hills, for those containing granite, or free-stone, are mostly intersected with points, eminences, cavities, depths, and small intermediate valleys; on the contrary, those which are composed of calcinable stone are nearly equal in height, and are only interrupted by greater and more regular vallies, whose angles are correspondent; and they are crowned with rocks whose position is regular and level.
Whatever difference may appear at first between these two species of mountains, their forms proceed from the same cause, as we have already observed; only it may be remarked, that the calcinable stones have not undergone any alteration nor change since the formation of the horizontal strata; whereas those of vitrifiable sand have been changed and interrupted by the posterior production of rocks and angular blocks formed within this sand. These two kinds of mountains have cracks which are almost always perpendicular in those of calcinable stones; but those of granite and free-stone appear to be a little more irregular in their direction. It is in these cracks metal, minerals, crystals, sulphurs, and all matters of the second class are found, and it is below these cracks that the water collects to penetrate the earth, and form those veins of water which are every where found below the surface.
FOOTNOTES:
[279:A] See Phil. Trans. Abr. Vol. VI. part ii. p. 153.
ARTICLE X.
OF RIVERS.
We have before said that, generally speaking, the greatest mountains are in islands and in the projections in the sea. That in the old continent the greatest chains of mountains are directed from west to east, and that those which incline towards the north or south are only branches of these principal chains; we shall likewise find that the greatest rivers are directed as the greatest mountains, and that there are but few which follow the course of the branches of those mountains. To be assured of this, we have only to look on a common globe, and trace the old continent from Spain to China. We shall find, by beginning at Spain, that the Vigo, Douro, Tagos, and Guadiana run from east to west, and the Ebro from west to east, and that there is not one remarkable river whose course is directed from south to north, or from north to south, although Spain is entirely surrounded by the sea on the west side, and almost so on the north. This observation on the directions of rivers in Spain not only proves that the mountains in this country are directed from west to east, but also that the southern lands, which border on the straits, are higher than the coasts of Portugal; and on the northern coast, that the mountains of Galicia, the Asturias, &c. are only a continuation of the Pyrennees, and that it is this elevation of the country, as well north as south, which does not permit the rivers to run into the sea that way.
It will also be seen, by looking on the map of France, that there is only the Rhone which runs from north to south, and nearly half its course, from the mountains to Lyons, is directed from the east towards the west; but that on the contrary all the other great rivers, as the Loir, the Charantee, the Garonne, and even the Seine, have a direction from east to west.
It will be likewise perceived, that in Germany there is only the Rhine, which like the Rhone shapes the greatest part of its course from north to south, but that the others, as the Danube, the Drave, and all the great rivers which fall into them, flow from the west to east into the Black Sea.
It will be perceived that this Black Sea, which should rather be considered as a great lake, has almost three times more extent from east to west than from north to south, and consequently its direction is similar to the rivers in general. It is the same with the Mediterranean, whose length from east to west is about six times greater than from north to south.
The Caspian Sea, according to the chart drawn by the order of Czar Peter I. has more extent from the south to the north than from east to west; whereas in the ancient charts it appears almost round, or rather more broad from east to west than from south to north; but if we consider the lake Aral as a part of the Caspian Sea, from which it is separated only by plains of sand, we shall find the length is from the western coast of the Caspian Sea as far as the greatest border of Lake Aral.
So likewise the Euphrates, the Persian gulph, and almost all the rivers in China run from west to east; all the rivers in Africa beyond Barbary flow from east to west, or from west to east, and there are only the rivers of Barbary and the Nile which flow from south to north. There are, in fact, great rivers in Asia which partly run from north to south, as the Wolga, the Don, &c. but by taking the whole length of their course, we find, that they only turn from the south to run into the Black and Caspian seas, which are only inland lakes.
It may therefore in general be said, that in Europe, Asia, and Africa, the rivers, and other mediterranean waters, extend more from east to west than from north to south, which proceeds from the chains of mountains being for the most part so directed, and that the whole continent of Europe and Asia is broader in this direction than the other; for there are two modes of considering the direction of mountains. In a long and narrow continent like South America, in which there is only one principal chain of mountains which stretches from south to north, the river not being confined by any parallel range, necessarily runs perpendicular to the course of the mountains, that is from east to west, or from west to east; in fact, it is in this direction all the rivers of America flow. In the old as well as the new continent most of the waters have their greatest extent from west to east, and most of the rivers flow in this direction; but yet this similar direction is produced by different causes; for instance, those in the old continent flow from east to west, because they are bounded by mountains whose direction is from west to east; whereas those in America preserve the same course from there being only one chain of mountains that extends from north to south.
In general, rivers run through the centre of vallies, or rather the lowest ground betwixt two opposite hills or mountains; if the two hills have nearly an equal inclination, the river will be nearly in the middle of the intermediate valley, let the valley be broad or narrow. On the contrary, if one of the hills has a more steep inclination than the other, the river will not be in the middle of the valley, but much nearer the hill whose inclination is greatest, and that too in proportion to the superiority of its declivity: in this case, the lowest ground is not in the middle of the valley, but inclines towards the highest hill, and which the river must necessarily occupy. In all places where there is any considerable difference in the height of the mountains, the rivers flow at the foot of the steepest hills, and follow them throughout all their directions, never quitting their course while they maintain the superiority of height. In the length of time, however, the steepest hills are diminished by the rain acting upon them with a greater degree of force, proportionate to their height, and consequently carry away the sand and gravel in more considerable quantities, and with greater violence; the river is then constrained to change its bed, and seek the lowest part of the valley: to this may be added, that as all rivers overflow at times, they transport and deposit mud and sand in different places, and that sands often accumulate in their own beds, and cause a swell of the water, which changes the direction of its course. It is very common to meet in vallies with a great number of old channels of the river, particularly if it is subject to frequent inundations, and carries off much sand and mud.
In plains and large vallies, where there are great rivers, the beds are generally the lowest part of the valley, but the surface of the water is very often higher than the ground adjacent. For example, when a river begins to overflow, the plain will presently be inundated to a considerable breadth, and it will be observed that the borders of the river will be covered the last; which proves that they are higher than the rest of the ground, and that from the banks to a certain part of the plain, there is an insensible inclination, so that the surface of the water must be higher than the plain when the river is full. This elevation on the banks of rivers proceeds from the deposit of the mud and sand at the time of inundations. The water is commonly very muddy in the great swellings of rivers; when it begins to overflow, it runs very gently over the banks, and by depositing the mud and sand purifies itself as it advances into the plain; so that all the soil which the currents of the river does not carry along, is deposited on the banks, which raises them by degrees above the rest of the plain.
Rivers are always broadest at their mouths; in proportion as we advance in the country, and are more remote from the sea, their breadth diminishes; but what is more remarkable, in the inland parts they flow in a direct line, and in proportion as they approach their mouths the windings of their course increase. I have been informed by M. Fabry, a sensible traveller, who went several times by land into the western part of North America, that travellers, and even the savages, are seldom deceived in the distance they are from the sea if they follow the bank of a large river; when the direction of the river is straight for 15 or 20 leagues, they know themselves to be a great distance from the coast; but, on the contrary, if the river winds, and often changes its direction, they are certain of not being far from the sea. M. Fabry himself verified this remark in his travels over that unknown and almost uninhabited country. In large rivers there is a considerable eddy along the banks, which is so much the more considerable as the river is less remote from the sea, which may also serve as a guide to judge whether we are at a great or short distance from the mouth; and as the windings of rivers increase in proportion as they approach the sea, it is not surprising that some of them should give way to the water, and be one reason why great rivers generally divide into many arms before they gain the sea.
The motion of the waters in rivers is quite different from that supposed by authors who attempt to give mathematical theories on this subject; the surface of a river in motion is not level when taken from one bank to the other, but according to circumstances the current in the middle is considerably higher or lower than the water close to the banks; when a river swells by a sudden melting of snow, or when by some other cause its rapidity is augmented, if the direction of the river is straight, the middle of the water where the current is rises, and the river forms a convex curve, of a very sensible elevation. This elevation is sometimes very considerable; M. Hupeau, an able engineer of bridges, once measured the river Avieron, and found the middle was three feet higher than near the bank. This, in fact, must happen every time the water has a very great rapidity; the velocity with which it is carried, diminishing the action of its weight in the middle of the current, so that it has not time to sink to a level with that near shore, and therefore remains higher. On the other hand, near the mouths, it often happens that the water which is near the banks is higher than that of the middle, although the current be ever so rapid. This happens wherever the action of the tides is felt in a river, which in great ones often sensibly extends as far as one or two hundred leagues from the sea; it is also a well known fact that the current of a river preserves its motion in the sea to a considerable distance; there is, in this case, therefore, two contrary motions in a river; the middle, which forms the current, precipitates itself towards the sea, and the action of the tide forms a counter-current, which causes the water near the banks to ascend, while that in the middle descends, and as then all the water must be carried down by the current in the middle, that of the banks continually descends thereto, and descends so much the more as it is higher, and counteracted with more force by the tide.
There are two kinds of ebbings in rivers; the first above-mentioned is a strong power occasioned by the tide, which not only opposes the natural motion of the river, but even forces a contrary and opposite current. The other arises from an inactive cause, such as a projection of land, an island, &c. This does not commonly occasion a very sensible counter-current, yet it is sufficient to impede the progress of boats and craft, and necessarily produces what is called a dead water, which does not flow like the rest of the river, but whirls about in such a manner that when boats are drawn therein they require great strength to get them out. These dead waters are very perceptible at the arches of bridges in rapid rivers. The velocity of the water increases in proportion as the diameter of the channel through which it passes diminishes, the impelling force being the same; the velocity of a river, therefore, increases at the passage of a bridge, in an inverse proportion of the breadth of the arches to the whole breadth of the river; the rapidity being very considerable in coming through the arch, it forces the water against the banks, from whence it is reflected with such violence as to form dangerous eddies and whirlpools. In going through the bridge St. Esprit, the men are forced to be careful not to lose the stream, even after they are past the bridge, for if they suffer the boat to go either to the right or left, it might be driven against the shore, or forced into the whirling waters, which would be attended with great danger. When this eddy is very considerable, it forms a kind of small gulph, the middle of which appears hollow and to form a kind of cylindrical cavity, around which the water whirls with rapidity: this appearance of a cylindrical cavity is produced by the centrifugal force, which causes the water to endeavour to remove itself from the centre of the whirlpool. When a great swell of water happens, the watermen know it by a particular motion; they then say the water at the bottom flows quicker than common: this augmentation of rapidity at the bottom, according to them, always announces a sudden rise of the water. The motion and weight of the upper water communicates this motion to them; for in certain respects we must consider a river as a pillar of water contained in a tube, and the whole channel as a very long canal where every motion must be communicated from one end to the other. Now, independent of the motion of the upper waters, their weight alone might cause the rapidity of the river to increase, and perhaps move it at bottom; for it is known, that by putting many boats at one time into the water, at that instant we increase the rapidity of the under part of the river, as well as retard that of the upper.
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Buffon's Natural History, Volume 01 (of 10)Chapter VII: Part 7
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