Chapter XIX: Cups and Cordials

"Can any mortal mixture
Breathe such divine, enchanting ravishment?"

"The evil that men do lives after them."

Five recipes for claret cup--Balaclava
cup--Orgeat--Ascot cup--Stout and champagne--Shandy-gaff
for millionaires--Ale cup--Cobblers which will
stick to the last--Home Ruler--Cherry brandy--Sloe
gin--Home-made, if possible--A new industry--Apricot
brandy--Highland cordial--Bitters--Jumping-powder--Orange
brandy--"Mandragora"--"Sleep rock thy brain!"

I suppose there are almost as many recipes for claret cup as for a cold in the head. And of the many it is probable that the greater proportion will produce a cup which will neither cheer nor inebriate; for the simple reason that nobody, who was not inebriated already, would be physically capable of drinking enough of it. Let us first of all take the late Mr. Donald's recipe for

Claret Cup:

_A._ 1 bottle claret.
1 wine-glassful fine pale brandy.
½ do. chartreuse yellow.
½ do. curaçoa.
¼ do. maraschino.
2 bottles soda or seltzer.[10]
1 lemon, cut in thin slices.
A few sprigs of borage; not much.
Ice and sugar to taste.

Here is a less expensive recipe:

_B._ Put into a bowl the rind of one lemon pared very
thin, add some sifted sugar, and pour over it a wine-glassful
of sherry; then add a bottle of claret, more sugar to taste,
a sprig of verbena, one bottle of aerated water, and a grated
nutmeg; strain and ice it well.

Once more let the fact be emphasised that the better the wine, spirit, etc., the better the cup.

Here is a good cup for Ascot, when the sun is shining, and you are entertaining the fair sex.

_C._ Put in a large bowl three bottles of claret (St.
Estephe is the stamp of wine), a wine-glassful (large) of
curaçoa, a pint of dry sherry, half a pint of old brandy, a
large wine-glassful of raspberry syrup, three oranges and one
lemon cut into slices; add a few sprigs of borage and a little
cucumber rind, two bottles of seltzer water, and three bottles
of Stretton water. Mix well, and sweeten. Let it stand for an
hour, and then strain. Put in a large block of ice, and a few
whole strawberries. Serve in small tumblers.

Another way and a simpler:

_D._ Pour into a large jug one bottle of claret, add two
wine-glassfuls of sherry, and half a glass of maraschino. Add
a few sliced nectarines, or peaches, and sugar to taste (about
a tablespoonful and a half). Let it stand till the sugar is
dissolved, then put in a sprig of borage. Just before using add
one bottle of Stretton water, and a large piece of ice.

My ideal claret cup:

_E._ 2 bottles Pontet Canet.
2 wine-glassfuls old brandy.
1 wine-glassful curaçoa.
1 pint bottle sparkling moselle.
2 bottles aerated water.

A sprig or two of borage, and a little lemon peel.

Sugar _ad lib._: one cup will not require much.

Add the moselle and popwater just before using; then put
in a large block of ice.

Those who have never tried can have no idea of the zest which a small proportion of moselle lends to a claret cup.

My earliest recollection of a cup dates from old cricketing days beneath "Henry's holy shade," on "a match day"--as poor old "Spanky" used to phrase it; a day on which that prince of philosophers and confectioners sold his wares for cash only. Not that he had anything to do with the compounding of the

_Cider Cup_.

Toast a slice of bread and put it at the bottom of a
large jug. Grate over the toast nearly half a small nutmeg,
and a very little ginger. Add a little thin lemon rind, and
six lumps of sugar. Then add two wine-glasses of sherry, and
(if for adults) one of brandy. (If for boys the brandy in the
sherry will suffice.) Add also the juice of a small lemon,
two bottles of lively water, and (last of all) three pints of
cider. Mix well, pop in a few sprigs of borage, and a block or
two of ice.

Remember once more that the purer the cider the better will be the cup. There is an infinity of bad cider in the market. There used to be a prejudice against the fermented juice of the apple for all who have gouty tendencies; but as a "toe-martyr" myself, I can bear testimony to the harmlessness of the "natural" Norfolk cider made at Attleborough, in the which is no touch of Podagra.

For a good

_Champagne Cup_

_vide_ Claret Cup _A._ Substituting the "sparkling" for the "ruby," the ingredients are precisely the same.

A nice, harmless beverage, suitable for a tennis party, or to accompany the "light refreshments" served at a "Cinderella" dance, or at the "breaking-up" party at a ladies' school, is

_Chablis Cup_.

Dissolve four or five lumps of sugar in a quarter of a
pint of boiling water, and put it into a bowl with a very
thin slice of lemon rind; let it stand for half-an-hour, then
add a bottle of chablis, a sprig of verbena, a wine-glassful
of sherry, and half-a-pint of water. Mix well, and let the
mixture stand for a while, then strain, add a bottle of seltzer
water, a few strawberries or raspberries, and a block of ice.
Serve in small glasses.

_Balaclava Cup._

"Claret to right of 'em,
'Simpkin' to left of 'em--
Cup worth a hundred!"

Get a large bowl, to represent the Valley--which only the
more rabid abstainer would call the "Valley of Death." You
will next require a small detachment of thin lemon rind, about
two tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar, the juice of two lemons,
and half a cucumber, cut into thin slices, with the peel on.
Let all these ingredients skirmish about within the bowl; then
bring up your heavy cavalry in the shape of two bottles of
Château something, and one of the best champagne you have got.
Last of all, unmask your soda-water battery; two bottles will
be sufficient. Ice, and serve in tumblers.

_Crimean Cup._

This is a very serious affair. So was the war. The cup, however, leads to more favourable results, and does not, like the campaign, leave a bitter taste in the mouth. Here are the ingredients:

One quart of syrup of orgeat (to make this _vide_
next recipe), one pint and a half of old brandy, half a
pint of maraschino, one pint of old rum, two large and one
small bottles of champagne, three bottles of Seltzer-water,
half-a-pound of sifted sugar, and the juice of five lemons.
Peel the lemons, and put the thin rind in a mortar, with the
sugar. Pound them well, and scrape the result with a silver
spoon into a large bowl. Squeeze in the juice of the lemons,
add the seltzer water, and stir till the sugar is quite
dissolved. Then add the orgeat, and whip the mixture well with
a whisk, so as to whiten it. Add the maraschino, rum, and
brandy, and strain the whole into another bowl. Just before
the cup is required, put in the champagne, and stir vigorously
with a punch ladle. The champagne should be well iced, as no
apparent ice is allowable in this mixture.

_Orgeat._

Blanch and pound three-quarters of a pound of sweet
almonds, and thirty bitter almonds, in one tablespoonful of
water. Stir in by degrees two pints of water and three pints of
milk. Strain the mixture through a cloth. Dissolve half-a-pound
of loaf sugar in one pint of water. Boil and skim well, and
then mix with the almond water. Add two tablespoonfuls of
orange-flower water, and half-a-pint of old brandy. Be careful
to boil the _eaû sucré_ well, as this concoction must not be
too watery.

_Ascot Cup._

Odds can be laid freely on this; and the host should stay away from the temptations of the betting-ring, on purpose to make it. And--parenthetically be it observed--the man who has no soul for cup-making should never entertain at a race meeting. The servants will have other things to attend to; and even if they have not it should be remembered that a cup, or punch, like a salad, should always, if possible, be mixed by some one who is going to partake of the same.

Dissolve six ounces of sugar in half-a-pint of boiling
water; add the juice of three lemons, one pint of old brandy, a
wine-glassful of cherry brandy, a wine-glassful of maraschino,
half a wine-glassful of yellow chartreuse, two bottles of
champagne. All these should be mixed in a large silver bowl.
Add a few sprigs of borage, a few slices of lemon, half-a-dozen
strawberries, half-a-dozen brandied cherries, and three bottles
of seltzer water. Put the bowl, having first covered it over,
into the refrigerator for one hour, and before serving, put
a small iceberg into the mixture, which should be served in
little tumblers.

How many people, I wonder, are aware that

_Champagne and Guinness' Stout_

make one of the best combinations possible? You may search the wide wide world for a cookery book which will give this information; but the mixture is both grateful and strengthening, and is, moreover, far to be preferred to what is known as

_Rich Man's Shandy Gaff_,

which is a mixture of champagne and ale. The old Irishman said that the "blackgyard" should never be placed atop of the "gintleman," intending to convey the advice that ale should not be placed on the top of champagne. But the "black draught" indicated just above is well worth attention. It should be drunk out of a pewter tankard, and is specially recommended as a between-the-acts refresher for the amateur actor.

_Ale Cup._

Squeeze the juice of a lemon into a round of hot toast;
lay on it a thin piece of the rind, a tablespoonful of pounded
sugar, a little grated nutmeg, and a sprig of balm. Pour over
these one glass of brandy, two glasses of sherry, and three
pints of mild ale. Do not allow the balm to remain in the
mixture many minutes.

One of the daintiest of beverages is a

_Moselle Cup_.

Ingredients: One bottle of moselle. One glass of brandy.
Four or five thin slices of pine-apple. The peel of half a
lemon, cut very thin. Ice; and sugar _ad lib_. Just before
using add one bottle of sparkling water.

_Sherry Cobbler_

although a popular drink in America, is but little known
on this side of the Atlantic. Place in a soda-water tumbler
two wine-glassfuls of sherry, one tablespoonful of sifted
sugar, and two or three slices of orange. Fill the tumbler with
crushed ice, and shake well. Drink through straws.

_Champagne Cobbler._

Put into a large tumbler one tablespoonful of sifted
sugar, with a thin paring of lemon and orange peel; fill the
tumbler one-third full of crushed ice, and the remainder with
champagne. Shake, and ornament with a slice of lemon, and a
strawberry or two. Drink through straws.

_Home Ruler._

This was a favourite drink at the bars of the House
of Commons, during the reign of the Uncrowned King. It was
concocted of the yolks of two raw eggs, well beaten, a little
sugar added, then a tumbler of hot milk taken gradually into
the mixture, and last of all a large wine-glassful of "J.J."
whisky.

_Cordials._

In treating of cordials, it is most advisable that they be _home made_. The bulk of the cherry brandy, ginger brandy, etc., which is sold over the counter is made with inferior brandy; and frequently the operation of blending the virtue of the fruit with the spirit has been hurried.

We will commence with the discussion of the favourite cordial of all,

_Cherry Brandy_.

This can either be made from Black Gean cherries, or
Morellas, but the latter are better for the purpose. Every
pound of cherries will require one quarter of a pound of white
sugar, and one pint of the best brandy. The cherries, with the
sugar well mixed with them, should be placed in wide-mouthed
bottles, filled up with brandy; and if the fruit be previously
pricked, the mixture will be ready in a month. But a better
blend is procured if the cherries are untouched, and this
principle holds good with all fruit treated in this way, and
left corked for at least three months.

_Sloe Gin._

For years the sloe, which is the fruit of the black-thorn, was used in England for no other purpose than the manufacture of British Port. But at this end of the nineteenth century, the public have been, and are, taking kindly to the cordial, which for a long time had been despised as an "auld wife's drink." As a matter of fact, it is just as tasty, and almost as luscious as cherry brandy. But since sloe gin became fashionable, it has become almost impossible for dwellers within twenty or thirty miles of London to make the cordial at home. For sloes fetch something like sixpence or sevenpence a pound in the market; and in consequence the hedgerows are "raided" by the (otherwise) unemployed, the fruit being usually picked before the proper time, _i.e._ when the frost has been on it. The manufacture of sloe gin is as simple as that of cherry brandy.

All that is necessary to be done is to allow 1 lb. of
sugar (white) to 1 lb. of sloes. Half fill a bottle--which need
not necessarily be a wide-mouthed one--with sugared fruit, and
"top up" with gin. If the sloes have been pricked, the liquor
will be ready for use in two or three months; but _do not hurry
it_.

In a year's time the gin will have eaten all the goodness out of the unpricked fruit, and it is in this gradual blending that the secret (as before observed) of making these cordials lies. As a rule, if you call for sloe gin at a licensed house of entertainment, you will get a ruby-coloured liquid, tasting principally of gin--and not good gin "at that." This is because the making has been hurried. Properly matured sloe gin should be the colour of full-bodied port wine.

_Apricot Brandy._

This is a cordial which is but seldom met with in this
country. To every pound of fruit (which should not be quite
ripe) allow one pound of loaf sugar. Put the apricots into
a preserving-pan, with sufficient water to cover them. Let
them boil up, and then simmer gently until tender. Remove the
skins. Clarify and boil the sugar, then pour it over the fruit.
Let it remain twenty-four hours. Then put the apricots into
wide-mouthed bottles, and fill them up with syrup and brandy,
half and half. Cork them tightly, with the tops of corks
sealed. This apricot brandy should be prepared in the month of
July, and kept twelve months before using.

_Highland Cordial._

Here is another rare old recipe. Ingredients, one pint of
white currants, stripped of their stalks, the thin rind of a
lemon, one teaspoonful of essence of ginger, and one bottle of
old Scotch whisky. Let the mixture stand for forty-eight hours,
and then strain through a hair sieve. Add one pound of loaf
sugar, which will take at least a day to thoroughly dissolve.
Then bottle off, and cork well. It will be ready for use in
three months, but will keep longer.

_Bitters._

One ounce of Seville orange-peel, half an ounce of
gentian root, a quarter of an ounce of cardamoms. Husk the
cardamoms, and crush them with the gentian root. Put them in a
wide-mouthed bottle, and cover with brandy or whisky. Let the
mixture remain for twelve days, then strain, and bottle off for
use, after adding one ounce of lavender drops.

_Ginger Brandy._

Bruise slightly two pounds of black currants, and mix
them with one ounce and a half of ground ginger. Pour over
them one bottle and a half of best brandy, and let the mixture
stand for two days. Strain off the liquid, and add one pound of
loaf sugar which has been boiled to a syrup in a little water.
Bottle and cork closely.

"_Jumping Powder_"

comes in very handy, on a raw morning, after you have ridden a dozen miles or so to a lawn meet. "No breakfast, thanks, just a wee nip, that's all." And the ever ready butler hands round the tray. If you are wise, you will declare on

_Orange Brandy_

which, as a rule, is well worth sampling, in a house important enough to entertain hunting men. And orange brandy "goes" much better than any other liqueur, or cordial, before noon.

It should be made in the month of March. Take the thin
rinds of six Seville oranges, and put them into a stone jar,
with half-a-pint of the strained juice, and two quarts of good
old brandy. Let it remain three days, then add one pound and
a quarter of loaf sugar--broken, not pounded--and stir till
the sugar is dissolved. Let the liquor stand a day, strain it
through paper till quite clear, pour into bottles, and cork
tightly. The longer it is kept the better.

_Mandragora._

"Can't sleep." Eh? What! not after a dry chapter on liquids? Drink this, and you will not require any rocking.

Simmer half-a-pint of old ale, and just as it is about to
boil pour it into a tumbler, grate a little nutmeg over it, and
add a teaspoonful of moist sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of
brandy. Good night, Hamlet!