Chapter I: Front Matter

Transcriber’s Note: Italic text is enclosed in _underscores_. Other notes will be found near the end of this ebook.

CARPENTER’S
WORLD TRAVELS

_Familiar Talks About Countries
and Peoples_

WITH THE AUTHOR ON THE SPOT AND
THE READER IN HIS HOME, BASED
ON THREE HUNDRED THOUSAND
MILES OF TRAVEL OVER
THE GLOBE

“READING CARPENTER IS SEEING THE WORLD”

Canada shares with the United States the glories of the Rockies, which invite the traveller ever westward and, once seen, cast a spell that is never shaken off.]

_CARPENTER’S WORLD TRAVELS_

CANADA
AND
NEWFOUNDLAND

BY
FRANK G. CARPENTER
LITT.D., F.R.G.S.

WITH 116 ILLUSTRATIONS
FROM ORIGINAL PHOTOGRAPHS

GARDEN CITY NEW YORK
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
1924

COPYRIGHT, 1924, BY
FRANK G. CARPENTER

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES
AT
THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS, GARDEN CITY, N. Y.

_First Edition_

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

In the publication of this volume on my travels in Canada and Newfoundland, I wish to thank the Secretary of State for letters which have given me the assistance of our official representatives in the countries visited. I thank also the Secretary of Agriculture and our Secretary of Labour for appointing me an Honourary Commissioner of their Departments in foreign lands. Their credentials have been of great value, making accessible sources of information seldom opened to the ordinary traveller.

To the officials of the Dominions of Newfoundland and Canada I desire to express my thanks for exceptional courtesies which greatly aided me in my investigations.

I would also thank Mr. Dudley Harmon, my editor, and Miss Ellen McB. Brown and Miss Josephine Lehmann, my associate editors, for their assistance and coöperation in the revision of notes dictated or penned by me on the ground.

While nearly all of the illustrations in Carpenter’s World Travels are from my own negatives, those in the book have been supplemented by photographs from the official collections of the Canadian government, the Canadian National Lines, the Canadian Pacific Railway, the Publishers’ Photo Service, the Holloway Studios of St. John’s, N. F., and Lomen Bros., of Nome, Alaska.

F. G. C.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE
I. JUST A WORD BEFORE WE START 1

II. THE KEY TO THE ST. LAWRENCE 3

III. AROUND ABOUT ST. JOHN’S 8

IV. THE COD FISHERIES OF NEWFOUNDLAND 13

V. IRON MINES UNDER THE SEA 24

VI. THE MARITIME PROVINCES 31

VII. IN FRENCH CANADA 42

VIII. STE. ANNE DE BEAUPRÉ AND ITS MIRACULOUS CURES 52

IX. MONTREAL 60

X. CANADA’S BIG BANKS 69

XI. OTTAWA--THE CAPITAL OF THE DOMINION 79

XII. THE LUMBER YARD OF AN EMPIRE 88

XIII. TORONTO--THE CITY OF PUBLIC OWNERSHIP 97

XIV. WATERFALLS THAT WORK FOR THE PEOPLE 106

XV. NIAGARA’S GIANT POWER STATION 113

XVI. THE SILVER MINES OF NORTHERN ONTARIO 119

XVII. NICKEL FOR ALL THE WORLD 127

XVIII. SAULT STE. MARIE AND THE CLAY BELT 134

XIX. THE TWIN LAKE PORTS 141

XX. WINNIPEG--WHERE THE PRAIRIES BEGIN 148

XXI. THE GREAT TRANSCONTINENTAL RAILWAYS 157

XXII. THE LAND OF FURS 166

XXIII. SASKATCHEWAN 175

XXIV. THE WORLD’S LARGEST WHEATFIELD 181

XXV. THE OPEN DOOR IN CANADA 188

XXVI. EDMONTON--THE GATEWAY TO THE NORTHWEST 197

XXVII. THE PASSING OF THE CATTLE RANGE 206

XXVIII. OVER THE GREAT DIVIDE 213

XXIX. THROUGH BRITISH COLUMBIA TO THE COAST 220

XXX. PRINCE RUPERT 226

XXXI. BY MOTOR CAR THROUGH THE WILDERNESS 232

XXXII. FROM WHITE HORSE TO DAWSON 241

XXXIII. THE CAPITAL OF THE YUKON 250

XXXIV. FARMING ON THE EDGE OF THE ARCTIC 259

XXXV. MINING WONDERS OF THE FAR NORTH 266

XXXVI. ROMANCES OF THE KLONDIKE 274

XXXVII. A DREDGE KING OF THE KLONDIKE 281

XXXVIII. THE ROYAL CANADIAN MOUNTED POLICE 288

SEE THE WORLD WITH FRANK G. CARPENTER 298

INDEX 301

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Where Man Feels Close to God _Frontispiece_

PAGE
The Untold Wealth of Canada 2

Newfoundland’s Rocky Coast 3

Icebergs off St John’s Harbour 6

The Capital City of Newfoundland 7

On the Fish Wharves 14

Spreading Codfish out to Dry 15

Fishing Villages 18

Hunting Seals on the Ice Fields 19

Caribou Crossing a River 19

Ore Piles at the Wabana Mines 22

The Annual Fishermen’s Race 23

Halifax Harbour 30

Cape Breton Island 31

Evangeline’s Well 38

Low Tide in the Bay of Fundy 38

A Quebec Farm House 39

French Canadian Woman Spinning 39

The Gibraltar of America 46

The St Louis Gate at Quebec 47

A Plank-paved Street 50

Ribbon-like Farms along the St Lawrence 51

A Wayside Shrine 54

The Church of Notre Dame 55

Grain Elevators of Montreal 62

Montreal from Mount Royal 63

In the Old French Market 66

Toboggan Slide Down Mount Royal 67

“Shooting” the Rapids 70

Through the La Chine Canal 70

Along the Rideau Canal 71

The Heights Above the Ottawa River 78

The Library of Parliament 79

A Giant of the Forest 86

Food for a Pulp Mill 87

A Forest Patrol Airplane 87

Log Jam on a Canadian River 94

Toronto’s Municipal Playground 95

Farm Scene in Ontario 95

Toronto, City of Sky-scrapers 102

Flax Raising in Ontario 103

Orchards of the Niagara Peninsula 110

The Big Ditch at Niagara 111

Ontario’s Giant Power Station 111

Potential Power for Canadian Industries 118

The Mining Town of Cobalt 119

Where One Walks on Silver 126

Erecting a “Discovery Post” 127

The World’s Greatest Freight Canal 134

Bascule Bridge at Sault Ste. Marie 134

Moose Feeding 135

Ontario Lake Country 135

Calling Moose 138

A Fishermen’s Mecca 139

The Mighty Elevators of Port Arthur 142

The Falls of Kakabeka 143

A Six-hundred-foot Lake Freighter 143

The Gateway to the Prairies 150

Cutting Corn by Machinery 151

Stacking Wheat 151

Over the Transcontinental Route 158

“Selling the Scenery” 159

Bargaining with the Eskimos 166

A Hudson’s Bay Trading Post 167

A Foster Mother for Foxes 167

Valuable Furs as Every-day Garments 174

The Capital of Saskatchewan 175

Grain Lands of the Prairies 178

American Windmills in Saskatchewan 179

Threshing Wheat 179

In Canada’s Great Wheat Province 182

Farming on a Large Scale 183

Future Citizens of the Dominion 190

A Modern Ranch 191

Raising Corn in Alberta 194

Railroads as Colonizers 195

Giving the Settler a Start 195

Digging Coal from a “Country Bank” 198

Milking Machines in an Alberta Dairy 199

Water for Three Million Acres 206

Passing of the “Wild West” 207

A Royal Ranch Owner 207

Calgary’s Business Section 210

Mounted Police Headquarters at Macleod 211

Lake of the Hanging Glaciers 214

The Monarch of the Herd 215

Mountain Climbing in the Canadian Alps 222

At the Foot of Mount Robson 223

The Land of the Kootenays 226

Apple Orchards of the Pacific Slope 227

Canada’s Most English City 227

Street in Prince Rupert 230

The World’s Greatest Halibut Port 230

Totem Poles at Kitwanga 231

Over the White Pass Railway 238

On the Overland Trail 239

Roadhouse on the Tahkeena River 239

The Head of Navigation on the Yukon 242

A Klondike Heating Plant 243

Islands in the Upper Yukon 246

Through the Five Finger Rapids 247

A Summer Residence in the Klondike 254

The White House of the Yukon 254

In the Land of the Midnight Sun 255

Redtop Grass Inside the Arctic Circle 258

A Ten-thousand-dollar Potato Patch 259

Dredging the Golden Gravel 274

Washing Down the Hills 275

Old-time Mining Methods 278

From Gold Seeker to Settler 279

The Prospector on the Trail 279

A Dredge King of the Klondike 286

Hydraulic Mining 287

The Guardian of the Northwest 290

An Eskimo of Ellesmere Island 291

CANADA
AND
NEWFOUNDLAND

CANADA AND NEWFOUNDLAND