Chapter V: Part 3: Guide and Adviser

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Visiting Cape Cod

Though Cape Cod has been known as Massachusetts’ major summer resort for many years, it is now attracting a number of travelers at all times of the year. Today more than 5 million people visit the Cape annually.

Those wishing to avoid crowds may prefer to walk its windswept beaches and tour its historic sites between September and June, the off-season.

That’s tip Number 1 in this handbook’s Guide and Adviser section, which focuses on that part of Cape Cod containing the National Seashore. This is the area, known as the Lower or Outer Cape, between Chatham and Provincetown. Some information also is provided to help you travel throughout the rest of Cape Cod and neighboring offshore islands. The first few pages deal with general travel tips and activities information. Then, 2-page spreads take closer looks at towns within or near the 27,000-acre National Seashore. They are followed by travel tips about nearby Cape Cod attractions and the islands of Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket.

Seasons

The summer beach season in July and August attracts the most vacationers, especially families with children. But enough tourist facilities are open in the fall, winter, and spring to take care of lodging and food needs.

In July and August daytime temperatures usually rise into the 80s°F. From September through November, temperatures gradually decline from the 70s to the 50s, or lower. Fall’s cool, brisk days make the Cape a favorite destination for some New Englanders on the Columbus Day and Thanksgiving holidays.

Winters are generally cold and windy, with temperatures averaging in the 30s during the day and in the 20s at night. The Atlantic Ocean and Cape Cod Bay help to moderate the winter temperatures, so the Cape’s snowfall is considerably less than the mainland’s.

As in all parts of New England, spring is short, arriving at the earliest in April and often not until June. Like the fall, however, spring can be one of the most pleasant times on Cape Cod because of the relative solitude.

Transportation

Major highways leading to Cape Cod are I-495 and Mass. 3 from the Boston area and I-195 from Providence, R.I., and Fall River, Mass. On the Cape itself U.S. 6 is the primary road to and through the National Seashore. Those wishing to travel through the Mid-Cape, or Upper Cape, towns and villages may use Mass. 6A on the north side or Mass. 28 on the south. In the summer, traffic moves slowly on most roads and highways.

=Buses= Major bus lines serve Hyannis on the Cape from Boston, Providence, Fall River, and New Bedford. Additional routes run from Hyannis to Chatham and Provincetown.

=Air Service= Flights operate from Boston, Providence, and New York City to Hyannis and between Boston and Provincetown. Private and charter planes may use airstrips in Hyannis, Chatham, and Provincetown.

=Ferries= A passengers-only ferry runs in summer between Boston and Provincetown. Passenger and vehicle ferries operate from Woods Hole and Hyannis to Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket in the summer. Ferry services to the islands are limited in other seasons. For further information: Woods Hole, Martha’s Vineyard & Nantucket Steamship Authority, P.O. Box 284, Dept. CG, Woods Hole, MA 02543-0284, telephone 508-540-2022; or Hy-line Cruises, Ocean Street Dock, Pier #1, Hyannis, MA 02601-4715, telephone 508-778-2600.

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Cape Cod National Seashore

Local Geographical Terms

=Outer Cape= generally refers to the area from Chatham through Provincetown.

=Lower Cape= includes the same area as Outer Cape but could encompass Brewster, Harwich, and perhaps Dennis.

=Upper Cape=, not shown on this map, refers to Bourne, Falmouth, Sandwich, and Mashpee.]

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The National Seashore

=The National Park Service operates two major visitor centers in Cape Cod National Seashore.=

The =Salt Pond Visitor Center= on U.S. 6 in Eastham has an information desk, exhibits on the natural and human history of the Cape, audiovisual shows, a bookstore, and special programs. A foot trail from the center goes by Nauset Marsh; the bike path leads to the beach. The Buttonbush Trail, with special features for the blind, is located next to the visitor center parking lot. Ask about other facilities and services accessible to those with disabilities.

The =Province Lands Visitor Center= in Provincetown is smaller than the one at Salt Pond, but it offers similar services. Exhibits and guided walks focus on the life of the dunes.

Both visitor centers are open daily from spring until late fall, and the staffs at both centers offer guided walks, talks, and evening programs on the Cape’s natural and human history. The many subjects include life of the marshes, seashore ecology, geology, archeology, birdlife, Indians, early settlers, and architecture. These services are provided daily in the summer and on a reduced basis in the spring and from Labor Day through Columbus Day. Ask for schedules at the visitor centers.

The =Race Point Ranger Station= in Provincetown provides year-round informational services. Informational services also are available in the winter at the Salt Pond Visitor Center and at park headquarters in South Wellfleet.

Environmental Education

The National Seashore is host to 2 environmental education centers that accommodate educational groups on an advanced booking basis during the school year. For further information, write to the National Seashore.

Camping

There are no campgrounds operated by the National Park Service, but a number of private commercial campgrounds are located within the boundaries of the National Seashore. Otherwise camping on park lands is prohibited. The Roland C. Nickerson State Park, on Mass. 6A in nearby Brewster, offers camping on a first-come, first-served basis from mid-April to mid-October; there are no trailer hookups. The park address is Main Street, Brewster, MA 02631-0003, and the telephone number is 508-896-3491. For information about private campgrounds, write or telephone the Cape Cod Chamber of Commerce (see below).

_The National Seashore is a place of discovery, a place to find bird tracks, horseshoe crabs, shells, polished stones, and life along trails._

Travel Services

Restaurants, hotels, motels, gifts shops, stores, gasoline stations, and other facilities are located in nearby towns and villages. Lodging reservations are essential in July and August. For information and to make reservations, write: Cape Cod Chamber of Commerce, Routes 6 and 132, Hyannis, MA 02601-0016; or telephone: 508-362-3225.

Further Information

For specific inquiries about the Seashore prior to or after a visit, write: Superintendent, Cape Cod National Seashore, 99 Marconi Site Road, Wellfleet, MA 02667; or telephone 508-349-3785. Call the Salt Pond Visitor Center at 508-255-3421, or the Province Lands Visitor Center (closed in winter) at 508-487-1256.

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Water Activities

=The Cape’s recreational activities are mostly water-related, naturally. Its many beaches, harbors, and inlets offer endless opportunities whether you want to swim, surf, sail, fish, water-ski, use a motorboat, or just sunbathe.=

Swimming

Within the National Seashore, lifeguard services, restrooms, changing areas, and related facilities are located at these beaches operated by the National Park Service from Eastham to Provincetown: Coast Guard, Nauset Light, Marconi, Head of the Meadow, Race Point, and Herring Cove (see map on pages 88-89). Several towns also have public beaches; all of them charge parking fees in the summer.

The water usually is quite cold—temperatures may be in the high 50s°F even in the summer—and the surf can be rough at times, so be especially careful. Some parents with young children prefer beaches on Cape Cod Bay to those on the Atlantic coast because the water is warmer and usually calmer and because the beaches slope more gradually into the water. See rip current warning, page 108.

Motorboating

The many inlets and harbors along the coastlines make the Cape appealing to motorboaters. Most town harbors have boat launching ramps, boat rentals, and other facilities. Marine supply stores are located in most Cape towns.

Some harbors, such as Provincetown, Wellfleet, Orleans, Chatham, Harwich Port, and Woods Hole, have docks, moorings, and other marine facilities for those visiting the Cape by powerboat. Write to the Chamber of Commerce or inquire locally for specific information.

Sailing, Surfing, and Windsurfing

Sailboats and sailboards are a familiar sight in Cape Cod waters from Buzzards Bay and Nantucket Sound to the Atlantic itself and Cape Cod Bay. In the National Seashore area, bays and harbors in Chatham, Orleans, Wellfleet, and Provincetown are excellent for those using small sailboats and sailboards. The Atlantic coast from Orleans to Provincetown is usually good for surfboarding. Special areas are designated for their use at beaches run by the National Park Service. If in doubt, inquire locally.

Fishing

Saltwater fishing is one of the most popular recreational activities on the Cape. Surf-fishermen line up on the more accessible beaches to cast their lines into the Atlantic for striped bass, bluefish, and flounder, while others seek secluded spots to try their luck.

Charter fishing boats work out of Chatham, Orleans, Wellfleet, and Provincetown. Besides the fish cited above, you might catch halibut, haddock, and mackerel.

No license is required for saltwater sport fishing, but there are size and number limits and a state license is necessary for fishing in the many freshwater ponds. Commercial fishing is not permitted within the National Seashore. Inquire at town offices or fishing supply stores about regulations and for other information.

Shellfishing

Because so many clams and other shellfish have been harvested for so many years, the supplies are dwindling and towns regulate their gathering and areas and times when shellfishing is allowed. You must obtain a town shellfish permit.

While on the Cape, you will hear about “mussels,” “steamers,” “quahogs,” and “little necks.” What are the differences?

=Mussels=, which are dark blue oblongs about 2½ inches long, are found in groups attached to rocks or pilings.

=Quahogs= are grayish hardshell clams that are commonly used in chowders. Small quahogs, known as little necks or cherrystones, are served raw. Quahogs are dug with a wide-toothed rake, or scratcher, primarily along the Cape Cod Bay shoreline at low tide and in the shallows of Nauset Bay and Pleasant Bay. From their boats, commercial shellfishermen use a heavy, long-handled rake that looks like a wire basket on the end of two long poles.

=Softshells= are whitish, oblong clams that are steamed or fried. They are dug with a small fine-toothed rake, or clam hoe, at low tide on sand flats facing the Atlantic, Nantucket Sound, and Cape Cod Bay. You can spot their locations by tiny holes in the sand. Sometimes they squirt water at you as you step near their holes.

Other common shellfish are bay or sea =scallops=. Scallop shells come in a variety of colors and have ribs or elevated ridges running from the top to the outer edges. Bay scallops usually are found in eelgrass beds.

A tip to out-of-staters: Cape Cod clam chowder is made with a milk base. Manhattan clam chowder is made with a tomato base. Do not expect the latter on the Cape. Don’t even ask for it!

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Whale Watching

Humans trace their ancestry to animals that left the sea and moved onto land. Whales trace their ancestry to a group of mammals that left the land 60 million years ago and returned to the sea. In relatively more recent times, Cape Cod, Nantucket, and New Bedford were East Coast centers for the harvesting of whales. Today, the Cape is a major center for the watching of whales. Commercial sightseeing boats conduct whale-watching tours of 3 to 8 hours from piers in Provincetown, Barnstable, and Plymouth from April to November. In the spring whales can be seen off the Cape migrating from the south, and in the fall they can be seen migrating from the north. Whales commonly seen off the Cape include the humpback, minke, and finback. Right whales are sometimes seen in the fall and spring. Whales may often be seen from land at Province Lands Visitor Center and from Race Point Beach. But you will see the whales up closer from a boat—and they will get a chance to watch you.

Minke whale

_Spouts rarely seen; sleek, like finback, but much smaller; body gray above, light underside; white band on flippers; narrow, pointed head; 15 to 35 feet long; seen in spring and fall._

Right whale

_V-shaped double spout; white callosities on head; short, rounded flippers; body black above and below, with white patches by chin and navel; no dorsal fin; shows black tail flukes when diving; 35 to 56 feet long; seen most often in spring._

Humpback whale

_Mushroom-shaped spout; long, white flippers; barnacles on snout; body black above, splotches of white on belly; very acrobatic, jumping, spinning, slapping tail; shows white patches on flukes when diving; 30 to 56 feet long; seen in spring and early summer._

Finback whale

_Tall, slender spout; flat, wedge-shaped head; dark gray above white belly; left side dark gray, right side including lower jaw white like belly; gray stripes behind eyes forming V’s on back; prominent dorsal fin; rarely shows tail when diving; 40 to 85 feet long; seen in spring, summer, and fall._

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Recreation Ashore

=Recreational opportunities abound on land as well as on or in the water. The National Seashore offers a number of short trails, a major biking trail, bridle paths, and birds, birds, birds.=

Biking

The 26-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail follows an old railroad bed from Dennis to South Wellfleet. This trail connects the National Seashore with Nickerson State Park’s camping facilities in Brewster.

Three bike trails are located within the National Seashore. The =Nauset Trail=, 1.6 miles long, starts at the Salt Pond Visitor Center and runs to Coast Guard Beach.

The =Head of the Meadow Trail= is 2 miles long and runs between High Head Road and Head of the Meadow Beach parking area in Truro. The trail commemorates the Pilgrims’ first discovery of fresh drinking water in 1620.

The most difficult of the 3 trails is a =5¼-mile loop= through the dunes of the Province Lands area. A 1-mile spur from the loop leads to Herring Cove Beach on Cape Cod Bay. A half-mile spur leads to Race Point Beach.

Bikers may also take a roundtrip along the Cape Cod Canal.

Bicycles may be rented in Orleans, Eastham, and Provincetown.

=Safety Tips= Check your brakes, gears, and steering before starting out, especially if you are using an unfamiliar bicycle. Wear a helmet.

All trails are two-way, so keep to the right.

Be alert for hikers and watch out for sand on the trails.

Use front and rear brakes together, or you may be thrown over the handlebars.

Do not speed.

Hiking

Walking the self-guiding trails located throughout the National Seashore is an excellent way to get away from the hurly-burly pace of the tourist areas and to get a sense of the Cape’s natural and human history. Most of the trails are not arduous.

The =Nauset Marsh Trail= in Eastham is a 1-mile loop that starts at Salt Pond, a glacial kettle pond that is fed twice daily by the ocean. From the trail you can get a close look at the life of Nauset Marsh, which was a bay when Champlain explored the area in 1605.

The =Beech Forest Trail= on Race Point Road near the Province Lands Visitor Center consists of 2 loops totaling 1 mile and tells the story of dune ponds and the elimination of early forests of beech, oak, pine, and cedar on the Lower Cape.

The =Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail= of 1.2 miles starts at the Marconi Station Site in Wellfleet, descends inland through a landscape in which the trees gradually grow taller as the effects of the sea lessen. The trail ends at a white cedar swamp in a glacial kettle, and returns to the parking area on the Old Wireless Road.

For information on other trails, see pages 100-105. While hiking on the Cape, be on the watch for ticks (see Lyme disease precautions on page 108).

Horseback Riding

Because of the fragility of the plants and soil, horseback riding is restricted to three bridle paths located in the Provincetown area and on designated dirt roads. Horses are not permitted on nature trails.

The =Sunset Trail= starts near Race Point Road and leads through dunes to the ocean. The =West Trail= starts at the same point but passes through shady pitch pine and black oak forests and by freshwater ponds and cranberry bogs. The =Herring Cove Trail= traverses a narrow barrier beach along Cape Cod Bay.

Allow 2 hours for a round trip on each of the bridle paths. Ask for more information about these trails at the visitor centers.

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Birdwatching

Cape Cod is one of the best places for birdwatching on the East Coast. Besides the terns, gulls, and ducks common to most seashores, the Cape is a seasonal home to a great number of marsh and lowland dwellers and a stopover for numerous migratory species traveling the Atlantic Flyway. More than 360 species have been recorded.

Some of the best places on the Lower Cape for birdwatching include Fort Hill, Coast Guard Beach, and Nauset Marsh in Eastham, the heathlands near Marconi Station, the Massachusetts Audubon Society’s Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary in South Wellfleet, the Pleasant Bay area and the Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge in Chatham, and, of course, all the beaches in between.

With the right weather conditions, the Beech Forest in Provincetown is good for seeing spring migrants. Also in the spring, migrating hawks may be seen from many vantage points, and autumn falcon flights on Cape Cod can be spectacular. Watch for seabirds from Race Point Beach any time of the year but particularly after northeast winds.

Ask at the National Seashore visitor centers about checklists and other birding publications.

Piping Plover, a Threatened Species

_All birds are protected within the National Seashore, but the piping plover is getting special protection. This small, sand-colored bird once was commonly seen along the Atlantic Coast, but its numbers dwindled greatly because of habitat loss. In 1918 the piping plover came under the protection of the Migratory Bird Treaty. Its numbers rose until the 1940s, when increases in beach recreation and development again threatened the bird. In 1986 the piping plover was listed by the Federal Government as a threatened species._

_The National Park Service and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service are jointly making efforts to protect piping plover nesting areas on the outer beaches. As a result, the piping plover’s U.S. Atlantic coast population now totals nearly 1,000 pairs._

_To help protect this threatened species, respect all areas fenced or posted, stay away from the birds and their nests, keep pets leashed on beaches where they are allowed, and do not bury any garbage on beaches, because it attracts predators._

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Orleans, Brewster, and Chatham

=On the Outer Cape in the summer, the towns of Orleans, Brewster, and Chatham provide a full range of food, lodging, and other services and facilities for vacationers. Some facilities remain open year round.=

=The National Seashore’s authorized boundaries encompass parts of Orleans and Chatham, primarily on the relatively remote Nauset Beach sandspit.=

Orleans

The town is named for Louis-Philippe de Bourbon, Duke of Orleans, who later was the King of France; he supposedly visited this area while exiled during the French Revolution. In the War of 1812 residents claimed to have driven off attacking British ships.

Major industries in the late 1800s were commercial fishing, shipbuilding, and saltmaking. Today, Orleans offers a variety of restaurants, lodging facilities, shops, and travel-related services with ready access to the National Seashore.

The =Nauset (Orleans) Beach= is within the National Seashore but is town-owned and operated; fees are charged in spring and summer. A surfing area is provided.

=Boating opportunities= abound with 20 town landings providing access to Cape Cod Bay and to Pleasant Bay, which in turn leads to the Atlantic and Nantucket Sound. Several boatyards offer boat and equipment rentals.

=Other places of interest=: Orleans Historical Society, French Cable Station Museum, Jonathan Young Windmill.

Brewster

The town of Brewster is on the sheltered Cape Cod Bay side of the upper arm where the trees grow taller and the grass thicker than they do between Eastham and Provincetown. Old ship captains’ houses and giant elms line Mass. 6A, which meanders through town. Numerous antiques shops, restaurants, and other travel facilities also line the highway.

The =Cape Cod Museum of Natural History=, a nonprofit organization on Mass. 6A, preserves in conjunction with a town-owned reserve an ancient herring run between Cape Cod Bay and freshwater ponds. The museum, open year round, offers ecology exhibits, nature trails, films, lectures, and, in the spring, opportunities to watch alewives run on Stony Brook. For further information, write: P.O. Box 1710, Brewster, MA 02631-0016; telephone 508-896-3867.

At =Stony Brook Mill=, on Stony Brook Road off Mass. 6A, you can see corn ground at a water-powered gristmill and tour a miller’s museum.

The =Brewster Historical Society Museum=, on Mass. 6A in East Brewster, exhibits local history.

=Roland C. Nickerson State Park=, on the eastern edge of Brewster, is an excellent place to camp if you plan to spend much time in the National Seashore. The park has 1,955 acres with more than 400 campsites available on a first-come, first-served basis. Recreational activities include freshwater swimming, boating, bicycling, and hiking. For bicyclists the Cape Cod Rail Trail links the state park with the National Seashore 8 miles away. For further information, write: Roland C. Nickerson State Park, Main Street, Brewster, MA 02631-0003; telephone 518-896-3491.

For more information about the town, call the Brewster Board of Trade: 508-896-5713.

Chatham

Chatham sits at the Cape’s elbow, facing both the Atlantic and Nantucket Sound. As a result, the morning fog seems to stay a little longer in Chatham than elsewhere on the Cape.

Commercial fishing boats still work out of Chatham harbors, but the main activity in the summer is tending to vacationers’ needs. Main Street, Mass. 28, is a beehive of shops, motels, and restaurants. The Fourth of July parade and Friday evening summer band concerts are longtime Chatham traditions.

An overlook near the =Coast Guard lighthouse= on Main Street provides excellent views of the Atlantic and of the massive swath cut through the Nauset (North) Beach spit in a storm in 1987.

Just south of the lighthouse, on Morris Island, is the =Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge=, a difficult place to access but a great place for birdwatching. Guided natural history tours on the island are available through the Cape Cod Museum of Natural History and the Wellfleet Bay Audubon Sanctuary.

Chatham has a few small public beaches and a large one, Harding Beach on Nantucket Sound. Remember, the waters of Nantucket Sound are usually calmer and about 5 degrees warmer than those of the Atlantic.

Diligent history buffs can locate a marker at Stage Harbor commemorating Samuel de Champlain’s visit in 1606.

=Other places of interest=: Old Atwood House, built in 1752, on Stage Harbor Road; Chatham Railroad Museum; Old Gristmill; fishing boats unloading at Chatham Fish Pier.

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Eastham and Wellfleet

=The character of the Cape’s landscape changes the farther out you go from the mainland. At Eastham and Wellfleet the land becomes noticeably flatter, the vegetation sparser, and the sand more evident. You’ve reached the Outer Cape—and the National Seashore.=

=Eastham is home to the National Seashore’s Salt Pond Visitor Center, and Wellfleet is home to its headquarters. A stop at the visitor center east of U.S. 6 is an excellent way to discover—through films, exhibits, publications, interpretive programs, and guided walks—the Outer Cape’s many natural and historical features and recreational opportunities (see pages 90-91).=

Eastham

When the Pilgrims landed on Cape Cod, a small group led by Myles Standish encountered some Indians on Eastham’s bay side. After the Pilgrims had settled in at Plymouth, some of them decided to move back to the Cape, and in 1644 a group founded Nauset, which has been known as Eastham since 1651. One of the Nauset founders, Thomas Prence, governed the whole of Plymouth Colony from Eastham for a few years.

Symbolic of these Plymouth-Eastham ties is the gristmill at =Windmill Park= on the west side of U.S. 6, about 2½ miles past the Orleans border. The mill was built in the 1600s in Plymouth and was reconstructed in Eastham in 1793. The mill is open during the summer and on weekends in the spring and fall (see page 47).

The =Penniman House= on Fort Hill Road is symbolic of another Eastham era: the heyday of sailing ships and whaling. Edward Penniman was 11 years old in 1842 when he left Fort Hill and went to sea. By the time he was 29 he was captain of his own whaler and soon was sailing to ports around the world. He returned to Eastham in 1868 to build this ornate house complete with mansard roof, kerosene chandelier, and cupola (see page 49).

The =Nauset Marsh Trail= is a loop that starts and ends at the National Seashore’s Salt Pond Visitor Center and goes past its namesake, a former glacial kettle pond that has been inundated by seawater, a salt marsh rich in wildlife, and an abandoned farmstead.

=Fort Hill Trail= takes a loop through the late-18th century farmstead of Rev. Samuel Treat. You can start at either of 2 parking lots on Fort Hill Road south of the visitor center. It winds past stone walls to Skiff Hill and Fort Hill on the edge of Nauset Marsh and then past the Penniman House. The =Red Maple Swamp Trail= is a spur loop off the Fort Hill Trail.

=Other places of interest=: whaling, lifesaving items, and other artifacts at the Historical Society’s Old Schoolhouse Museum opposite Salt Pond Visitor Center; Doane Rock, a glacial erratic; Coast Guard Beach and Nauset Light Beach; Three Sisters Lighthouses; local historical objects at Swift-Daley House on U.S. 6.

Wellfleet

The town of Wellfleet—which was a part of Eastham and called Billingsgate until 1763—is an old whaling port and still a major fishing and shellfish center on Cape Cod Bay. Some say Wellfleet got its name from being a “whale fleet” base, while others say the name came from the Wallfleet oyster beds area of England.

The center of Wellfleet is small but has several restaurants, shops, art galleries, and other facilities for vacationers. The town boasts of its First Congregational Church clock that strikes ship’s time.

The Massachusetts Audubon Society runs the 700-acre =Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary= west of U.S. 6 in South Wellfleet. Trails go through beach, marsh, and pine forest. It’s a good place for birdwatching.

Past the sanctuary, to the east of U.S. 6, is the =National Seashore headquarters=. Informational services are provided here when the Province Lands Visitor Center is closed in the winter.

The =Marconi Station Site=, located past the headquarters on a bluff facing the Atlantic, is where Guglielmo Marconi transmitted the first transatlantic radio message, between Theodore Roosevelt and the King of England, in January 1903 (see pages 78-79).

While you’re at the Marconi Station Site, take the 1.2-mile =Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail= (see page 97).

On Wellfleet’s west side, another trail leads out to and across =Great Island=, a glacial remnant that has become a peninsula. This former island was once dotted with lookout towers for whales and was the location of houses and a tavern.

=Other places of interest=: Atwood-Higgins House (inquire at National Seashore visitor centers); Wellfleet Historical Society museum on Main Street; Marconi Beach.

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Truro and Provincetown

=The narrowing of the Outer Cape and the power of nature readily become evident in Truro and Provincetown. Here the way the wind and the sea move sand around seems to be more noticeable than elsewhere on the peninsula.=

=Even in the summer, Truro is relatively desolate for a Cape Cod town, especially when compared with its bustling neighbor to the north, Provincetown, with its writers, artists, actors, and tourists.=

Truro

Many towns claim many associations with the Pilgrims, and Truro can certainly claim its own. Myles Standish and a small _Mayflower_ group discovered a basket of corn that had been buried by Indians on what is now known as Corn Hill, and another group found a freshwater spring near Pilgrim Lake (see pages 34-35).

The town, originally called Pamet and then Dangerfield, took the name of Truro in 1709 because of its similarities to an area of seaside moors and valleys by that name in England.

Whaling ships once worked out of Pamet Harbor on Cape Cod Bay, and until the 1860s the town was a major port with its related shipbuilding and fishing facilities and its saltworks. Most of the men made their living at sea, and in 1841 the town lost 57 fishermen in one storm. Today the small center of town has a few restaurants and other facilities for travelers.

=Highland Light=—also known as Cape Cod Light—is the second lighthouse constructed on the high bluff overlooking the Atlantic at Truro. The first was built in 1797 and the present one in 1857. Today the U.S. Coast Guard also maintains a radio beacon here to assist ships in their navigation. Nearby is the Truro Historical Society’s =Highland House Museum=.

The National Seashore has two short trails in the Pilgrim Heights area of North Truro. =Pilgrim Spring Trail= takes you through the area where a _Mayflower_ exploratory group supposedly found a freshwater spring. =Small’s Swamp Trail= loops through a farmstead that was abandoned in 1922; the Small family built their house in a glacial kettle-hole.

=Other points of interest=: Pamet Cranberry Bog house; a Paul Revere bell in the 1827 Bell Church on Meetinghouse Road; Head of the Meadow Beach.

Provincetown

The town has been a prominent port and fishing community since colonial days when wharves lined the shores and hundreds of sailing ships filled the harbor. Today Provincetown is still a major port, but cod, mackerel, and hake have long since replaced whales as the major catch. And today, the town is full of art galleries, theaters, sidewalk cafes, restaurants, and shops that come alive in the summer when the population jumps from about 3,000 to 30,000.

Symbolic of Provincetown’s long history connected with the sea is the town’s Blessing of the Fleet festival on the last weekend in June. In the harbor, colorfully decorated fishing boats pass before a Roman Catholic bishop to receive his blessing for a successful season, and paraders wander through the narrow streets to honor Saint Peter, the patron saint of fishermen.

Whereas the center of town is located on the Cape Cod Bay side of the Cape, another center of interest, =Race Point=, is on the Atlantic side. The National Seashore’s Province Lands Visitor Center on Race Point Road has exhibits and films about the area’s natural and human history and is the starting point for a bicycle trail (see page 96). The center offers a variety of guided walks and talks and, from the observation deck, views over the dunes of the ocean—and possibly of whales.

In the summer, the =Old Harbor Life Saving Museum= at Race Point Beach presents interpretive talks and displays about the Cape’s early lifesaving activities. The station, on the National Register of Historic Places, was moved to Race Point from Chatham in 1978.

For swimming and sunbathing, the National Park Service manages beaches at Race Point and Herring Cove.

Back in town, the =Pilgrim Monument= rises 255 feet, a prominent reminder that the Pilgrims landed here before heading to Plymouth. Climb to the top of this granite tower and you are rewarded with wonderful views of the Atlantic and of Cape Cod Bay with the Manomet bluffs near Plymouth on the horizon. The ground-level museum houses memorabilia of the town.

The =Provincetown Heritage Museum= at 356 Commercial Street has a number of maritime paintings, a half-size model of the schooner _Rose Dorothea_, the fishing boat _Charlotte_, and other memorabilia.

=Other points of interest=: the Seth Nickerson House, circa 1746, at 72 Commercial Street; Provincetown Art Association and Museum; Center for Coastal Studies; whale-watching excursions starting at the MacMillan Wharf.

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Nearby Attractions

Awashonks _figurehead_, _New Bedford Whaling Museum_]

=The historical, cultural, recreational, and scenic attractions of Cape Cod and the nearby area are so multitudinous they cannot be listed in this book. Here, by community, are a few sites related thematically to the National Seashore.=

Bourne

The 7-mile-long Cape Cod Canal links Massachusetts Bay with Buzzards Bay and saves mariners 100 miles of traveling around the Cape in hazardous waters. The Army Corps of Engineers manages the canal and the 3 bridges that cross it. The canal was first envisioned by Myles Standish in 1624, and 150 years later George Washington liked the idea so much he ordered a survey. But nothing happened for years. New York financier August Belmont took over the construction in 1909 after it had been worked on for nearly 30 years. He saw it through to completion in 1914, but he lost millions of dollars on it. The Federal Government took over the canal in 1928, and the Army Corps deepened and widened it. Stop at the canal visitor center on Main Street in Bourne Monday through Friday to see a model of the canal and an audiovisual show. Canal boat tours are offered out of Onset Bay Town Pier. Hikers and bicyclists can take a 14-mile roundtrip along the canal.

Woods Hole

The National Marine Fisheries Service Aquarium has tanks of seals, East Coast fish and shellfish, and exhibits about fisheries. The Marine Biological Laboratory offers a tour in the summer of a lab and of sea life in holding tanks. It also presents a slide show about its scientific studies.

Mashpee

The Wampanoag Indian Museum on Mass. 130 has exhibits and artifacts of early Wampanoag life (see pages 32-33).

Plymouth

In this Massachusetts Bay town you can see Plymouth Rock, the traditional landing spot of the Pilgrims after they left Cape Cod in 1620; go aboard a replica of the _Mayflower_, tour Plimoth Plantation, a reconstruction of the Pilgrims’ first village; and see a number of other historic sites, plus Cranberry World Visitor Center’s exhibits on the cultivation and harvesting of cranberries.

New Bedford

Nantucket and New Bedford were the centers of New England’s whaling industry in the 19th century. Today New Bedford is still a key fishing port, but whaling is an historical attraction. The New Bedford Whaling Museum on Johnny Cake Hill features the 89-foot _Lagoda_, a half-scale model of a fully rigged whaling ship; a large collection of scrimshaw; and a multitude of whaling artifacts. Nearby is the Seaman’s Bethel, a sailors’ church with a pulpit in the shape of a ship’s prow. The church figured in Herman Melville’s _Moby Dick_.

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Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket

_Main Street, Nantucket_]

=While visiting Cape Cod, consider spending a day or two or more on the islands of Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket, summertime havens that share much of the Cape’s cultural history and scenic ambience. Both islands were settled in the 1600s by colonists from the Massachusetts Bay Colony, both were major seaports linked with Cape fisheries, and both have attracted vacationers since the steamboat days of the 1800s. Despite these similarities, the islands are distinctive.=

=Martha’s Vineyard is closest—only 7 miles and 45 minutes by ferry from Woods Hole. Nantucket is about 30 miles from the Cape and 2 hours and 20 minutes by ferry from Hyannis. And don’t feel you have to take your car. Bicycles, mopeds, taxis, and buses are available.=

Martha’s Vineyard

New England’s largest island, Martha’s Vineyard is 24 miles long and 10 miles wide. Vineyard Haven was a major port until the Cape Cod Canal re-routed ship traffic in 1914. Today, the ferry stops at Vineyard Haven and, in the summer, at Oak Bluffs, an old Methodist camp meeting site.

The Vineyard’s eclectic architecture includes Victorian gingerbread houses and cottages in Oak Bluffs, sturdy white clapboard sea captains’ houses in Edgartown, a mix of styles in Vineyard Haven, fishing shanties in Menemsha, and cedar-shingled cottages throughout the island.

Examine whaling artifacts at the Dukes County Historical Museum in Edgartown, look for ospreys at the Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary, inspect solar- and wind-powered energy sources at the Windfarm Museum, and visit Gay Head’s scenic cliffs overlooking the Atlantic.

Nantucket

Nantucket is the name not only of the island but of the county and of the main town on the island, which is 14 miles long and 3½ miles wide. The island is known for its more than 800 houses built between 1740 and 1840, for its brick sidewalks and cobblestone streets, for its encircling 55 miles of beautiful beaches, and for its whaling and Quaker heritage.

Nantucket’s architecture reflects the great wealth garnered by its whaling merchants and captains. The most notable structures are the Three Bricks and the Two Greeks, mansions built across from each other by Joseph Starbuck and William Hadwen respectively.

Be sure to see the old whaleboat and other seafaring artifacts at the Whaling Museum; ship captain portraits, old baskets, and other historical objects at the Peter Foulger Museum; the elegant ballroom in the William Hadwen House. These sites are administered by the Nantucket Historical Association (508-228-1894). You may also visit a re-created beach station at the Nantucket Life Saving Museum. And don’t be startled if you hear Nantucketers refer to the mainland as America. It’s a sign of their isolation and independence.

Information

Martha’s Vineyard Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 1698, Beach Road, Vineyard Haven, MA 02568-1698; 508-693-0085. Nantucket Visitor Services, 25 Federal St., Nantucket, MA 02554-3573; 508-228-0925.

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Safety and Other Management Concerns

=Most of the regulations enforced within the National Seashore concern the protection of natural and cultural resources. Others deal with personal safety. Please obey them.=

● State law requires the wearing of seatbelts by drivers and passengers in Massachusetts.

● Do not disturb or damage any natural features, including flowers, trees, animals, dunes, marine animal remains, or cultural features, such as historic structures and objects. It is permissible to collect shells, but metal detectors are not allowed.

● Keep beaches, trails, roadsides, and other areas clean. Put all litter in trash receptacles or carry it away with you.

● Motorized vehicles, including mopeds, are not allowed on paved bicycle trails. Over-sand vehicles must be used only on designated sand routes, and a permit—which may be obtained at the Race Point Ranger Station—is required. Indiscriminate off-road driving is prohibited.

● At the ocean, be alert for underwater obstacles. Keep children within reach. Be wary of too much sun exposure. Glass containers, rafts, rubber tubes, snorkels, and masks are not permitted on lifeguarded beaches. Public nudity is prohibited within the National Seashore.

● Kite flying is prohibited within 500 feet of posted shorebird nesting areas.

=_Rip currents, often incorrectly called rip tides, occur when wave-driven currents surge back to sea through gaps in an offshore bar, then dissipate quickly in deeper water. To escape a rip current, swim parallel to shore before heading in. Never swim against a rip current!_=

● Keep pets under physical restraint at all times. Leashes must not exceed 6 feet. Pets are not allowed in public buildings, in picnic areas, on lifeguarded beaches, on nature trails, in posted shorebird nesting areas, and on beaches or in water of freshwater ponds.

● At ponds gasoline-powered motorboats, glass containers, and any use of soaps and detergents are prohibited.

● Open fires are not allowed except when authorized by a permit, which can be obtained at visitor centers. Permits are not required for stoves using manufactured fuels, or for charcoal grills when they are used in designated picnic areas at Beech Forest, Pilgrim Heights, Great Island, and Doane Rock, or on sandy or rock beaches bordering tidewater.

● Avoid walking in sand dunes so as not to affect the fragile vegetation. Because sand collapses easily, do not climb cliffs and sandy slopes or dig deep holes in the sand.

● Be alert for ticks. A bite may transmit various ailments. The deer tick is known to carry Lyme disease. Inspect yourself carefully if you walk through grass or brush.

● Upland game and migratory waterfowl may be hunted in certain National Seashore areas in specified seasons. Federal, state, and local laws apply. Ask for information on hunting opportunities and regulations.

=Note=: Rangers can provide first aid assistance. The closest health clinics are in Provincetown, Wellfleet, and Harwich, and the nearest hospital is in Hyannis.

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Armchair Explorations

=Eastern National Park & Monument Association, a nonprofit group that supports interpretive and scientific efforts at Cape Cod National Seashore, offers books, maps, and other Cape Cod items for sale at the park and by mail. For a free list of Cape Cod publications, including a special selection for children, write to the association at Salt Pond Visitor Center, Rt. 6, Eastham, MA 02642-2113. For a list of official handbooks about other national parks, write to the Division of Publications, National Park Service, P.O. Box 50, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425-0050.=

Here is a partial list of books and booklets about Cape Cod and related subjects:

O’Brien, Greg, editor. _A Guide to Nature on Cape Cod and the Islands._ Written in cooperation with Cape Cod Museum of Natural History. Penguin Books, 1990.

Beston, Henry. _Outermost House._ Holt, Rinehart and Winston, 1928. Reprint First Owl Book Edition, 1992.

Burling, Francis P. _The Birth of Cape Cod National Seashore._ The Leyden Press, 1979.

Clark, Admont G. _Lighthouses of Cape Code, Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket: Their History and Lore._ Parnassus Imprints, 1992.

Coulombe, Deborah A. _Seaside Naturalist: A Guide to Nature Study at the Seashore._ Prentice-Hall, 1984.

Dalton, J. W. _The Life Savers of Cape Cod._ Barta Press, 1902. Reprint Parnassus Imprints, 1991.

Finch, Robert. _Common Ground: A Naturalist’s Cape Cod._ David R. Godine, 1981; _Outlands: Journeys to the Outer Edges of Cape Cod_. David R. Godine, 1986; _The Primal Place_. W. W. Norton, 1983.

Hay, John. _The Great Beach._ Doubleday, 1963.

Kaye, Glen. _Cape Cod: the Story Behind the Scenery._ KC Publications, 1980.

Kittredge, Henry C. _Cape Cod: Its People and Their History._ Houghton Mifflin, 1930. Reprint Parnassus Imprints, 1987.

Martin, Kenneth. _Some Very Handsome Work._ Eastern National Park and Monument Association, 1991.

Oldale, Robert. _Cape Cod and the Islands: The Geologic Story._ Parnassus Imprints, 1992.

Penniman, Augusta. _Penniman Journal: A Whaling Voyage._ Eastern National Park & Monument Association, 1988.

Quinn, William P. _Shipwrecks Around Cape Cod._ Lower Cape Publishing, 1973.

Teal, John and Mildred. _Life and Death of the Salt Marsh._ 1969. Reprint Ballantine Books, 1991.

Thoreau, Henry David. _Cape Cod._ Houghton Mifflin, 1864, and Penguin State, 1865. Reprint Parnassus Imprints with introduction by Robert Finch, 1984. Reprint Penguin Books with introduction by Paul Theroux, 1987.

Waldron, Nan Turner. _Journey to Outermost House._ Butterfly & Wheel Publishing, 1991.

Weinstein-Farson, Laurie. _The Wampanoag._ Chelsea House, 1989.

Willison, George F. _Saints and Strangers._ Reynal & Hitchcock, 1945. Reprint Parnassus Imprints, 1983.

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Index

_Numbers in italics refer to photographs, illustrations, or maps._

=_Andrea Doria_=, 61

=Atwood-Higgins House=, _38-39_

=Barnstable=, _61_, _94_

=Beaches=, 25, 37, 40, 73, 92, 99, 101

=Beech Forest=, 97, 99

=Belmont, August=, 65, 106

=Beston, Henry=, 7, 14, 71, _72_, 73, 109

=Bicycling=, 24, 96, 101, 105

=Birds=, _66-67_, 81, _98-99_, _107_, 111;
shooting, 70;
watching, 98-99, 101

=Blackfish Creek=, 30, 58

=Boating=, 92, 100

=Botkin, Henry=, 33

=Bourne=, 106;
bridge, 65, 76

=Bradford, William=, 31

=Brewster=, 58, 91, 100-101

=Bridges=, 65, 76

=Buzzards Bay=, 70, 106

=Cape Cod=, _20-21_;
Bay, 46, 53, 58;
Branch Railroad, 70;
Canal, 61, 62-63, 65, 106;
history, 69;
House, 7, _38-39_;
Light, 62, 64, _104_;
Museum of Natural History, 80, 100, 101;
School of Art, 70;
Stranding Network, 80

=Cape Cod National Seashore=:
camping, 91;
founding of, 17-18, 80;
headquarters, 103;
location, 86;
map, _88-89_;
recreation, 92-99;
transportation, 87;
visitor centers, 90

=Captains, ship=, _50-51_, 58-59

=Channing, William=, 69

=Chatham=, 28-29, 62, 64, 65, 93, _100_, 101

=Clams=, _93_

=Cleveland, Grover=, 70

=Coast Guard, U.S.=, 64, 65;
Beach, 24, 25, _30_, 32, 40, _92_

=Cobb, Elijah=, 50

=_Columbia_=, _50_

=Commerce=, 47, 52-53, 69, 75, 76

=Cottages=, summer, _76_

=Cranberries=, _68_, _74-75_, 76

=Crosby, Charles=, _50_

=Crosby, James E.=, _50_

=de Bry, Theodore=, 32

=de Champlain, Samuel=, 32, 101

=Dennis=, 61

=Dunes=, _4-5_, _29_, 30, 46

=Eastham=, 34, 69, 101-2;
Coast Guard Station, 36;
visitor center, 30, 90, 102.
_See also_ Nauset Marsh

=Eldridge, Asa=, _51_

=Elizabeth Islands=, 24, 26

=Environmental education=, 80, 90, 100

=Erosion=, _28-29_, 36-37, 40-41

=Fish=, _32_, _42-44_, 45-47, 81;
industry, _53_, _54-55_, 93

=Federal Migratory Bird Treaties, 1916=, 70

=Gale, October 1841=, 59, 64

=Geology=, 23-30, 36-41, 46;
maps, _26-29_

=Georges Banks=, 25, 59, 64

=Glaciation=, 7, _23-24_, _26-27_, 46.
_See also_ Geology

=Golf=, 71

=Gosnold, Bartholomew=, 46-47

=Grand Banks=, 47, 59

=Grass=, 30-31, _42_, _43_, _45_, 80

=Gravestones=, 51, _59_

“=Graveyards of the Atlantic=”, 59.
_See also_ Shipwrecks

=_Great Beach, The_=, 71

=Great Blizzard, 1978=, 15, 40

=Great Island=, 30, 103

=Great Pond=, 27

=Gulf Stream=, 46

=Hall, Henry=, 74

=Harding Beach=, 101

=Hay, John=, 71, 109

=Head of the Meadow Beach=, 25

=Herring River=, _15_

=Highland Light=, 62, 64, 71, _104_

=Hiking=, 96-97, 103, 104

=Hitchcock, Edward=, 46

=Horseback riding=, 97

=_House on Nauset Marsh_=, 71

=Howe, James=, 76

=Howes, Osborn=, 50

=Jeremy Point=, 28, 30

=Jonathan Young Windmill=, _101_

=Kendrick, John=, 50

=Kennedy, John F.=, 17

=Kittredge, Henry=, 58, 59

=Labrador Current=, 46

=Laurentide ice sheet=, 23, _26_

=Lieutenant Island=, 58

=Life Saving Service, U.S.=, _62-63_, 64, 65, _105_

=Lighthouses=, _17_, _62-63_, 64, 65

=Lodging=, 91

=Lower Cape=, 24, 25, 46, 86

=Maps=, _26-29_, _33-35_, _60_, _87-89_

=Mashpee=, 106

=Marconi, Guglielmo=, _78_

=Marconi Wireless Station=, 28, _78-79_, 97, 103

=Martha’s Vineyard=, 26, 107

=_Mayflower_=, _34-35_, _106_

=_Messenger_=, _60_

=Metacomet= (King Philip), _36_

=Mid-Cape Highway=, 76

=Monomoy Island=, 30, 40, 59, 81;
Point, 28;
National Wildlife Refuge, 80, 101

=_Morgan, Charles W._=, _52_, 53

=Myers, Rowena=, 13-14

=Nantucket=, 26, 46, 107;
Sound, 53, 70

=Native Americans=, 31, _32-33_, 45, 54

=Nauset=:
Beach, 30, 73, 100;
Light, _17_, _62-63_;
Marsh, 8, _10-11_, _19_, 71, 96, 103

=Nearby attractions=, 106-7

=Nickerson, Roland C. State Park=, 91, 101

=North Beach=, _22_, 28-29, 30

=Old Harbor Life Saving Museum=, 105

=Old Schoolhouse Museum=, _102_

=Oliver, Mary=, 71

=O’Neill, Eugene=, 28, 71

=Orleans=, 93, 100

=Outer Beach=, 7, 15, 25, 86

=Outer Cape=, 28, 37, 40

=_Outermost House, The_=, 40, 71, _72-73_, 109

=Paddock, Ichabod=, 53

=Pamet=:
Harbor, 30;
River, 24, 29

=_Paulding_=, 61

=Peaked Hill Bars=, 41, 59;
Coast Guard Station, _28-29_

=Penniman, Augusta=, 49, 109

=Penniman, Edward=, 49, 102-3

=Penniman House=, _49_, _102_

=Pilgrim Monument=, _2-3_, 105

=Pilgrims=, _33_, _34-35_, 65, 102, 104, 106

=Pine, pitch=, _31_

=Plants=, _42_, _43_

=Pleasant Bay=, 29, 70

=Plymouth=, _34-35_, 102, 106

=Ponds=:
kettle, 24, 25, 27;
salt, 27, 30

=Population=, 31, _32-33_, 45, 54, 69-71, 76, 86, 104.

=_Portland_=, 61

=Prence, Thomas=, 102

=Province Lands=, 29, 46, 96;
Visitor Center, 90, 95, 104-5

=Provincetown=, _2-3_, 48, 54, 70-71, _77_, 93, 94, 104-5;
Harbor, 30, 47, 53, 65;
Hook, 28, 30, 41;
Players, 70-71;
topography, 30, 40-41, 59

=Race Point=, 59, 62, 64, 95, 99, 104-5;
Ranger Station, 90

=Railroad=, 65, _70_, 76

=_Red Jacket_=, _51_

=Revenue Cutter Service=, 64

=Rich, Shebnah=, 47

=Richardson, Wyman=, 71

=Roosevelt, Theodore=, 79

=Safety & health=, 108

=Sagamore bridge=, 65, 76

=Saltonstall, Leverett=, 17

=Salt Pond Visitor Center=, 24, 90, 102

=Salt marshes=, 30-31, _42-43_, 45, 80

=Saltworks=, _56-57_

=Sandy Neck=, 53

=Sears, John=, 56

=Shipping artifacts=, _50-51_

=Shipwrecks=, 59, _60-61_, 64-65

=Smith, John=, 47

=Smith, Walter=, _71_

=South Wellfleet=, 59

=_Sparrowhawk_=, 59, 60-61

=_Speedwell_=, 35

=Stage Harbor=, _32_, 33

=Standish, Myles=, 34, _36_, 65, 102, 104, 106

=_Stockholm_=, 61

=Stony Brook Mill=, 100-101

=Storms=, 15, _28-29_, 40, 59, 64

=Thoreau, Henry David=, 54, 57, 58, 69, 71, _72_, 109

=Tides=, 15

=Topography=, 24-31, 36-41, 59, 76, 80-81, 101, 102

=Town crier=, _71_

=Trails=, 96, _97_, 103, 104

=Transportation=, 87

=Truro=, 24, 61, 64, 69, 76, 104

=Turner, C. E.=, _50_

=_Ulysses_=, _60-61_

=Upper Cape=, 24, 88

=Wampanoag Indians=, _32-33_, 45, 54, 106

=Washington, George=, 65

=Water sports=, 92

=Weather=, 86-87

=Wellfleet=, 30, 54, 69, 93, 103;
topography, 24, 101;
whaling, 48, 58

=Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary=, 103

=Whales=, _48_, _58_, 80, _94-95_

=Whaling=, _48-49_, 53, 58, 104

=_Whydah_=, 59, 61

=Wildflowers=, _82-83_

=Windmills=, _47_, _56-57_, _101_, 102

=Wireless telegraphy=, 28, _78-79_, 97, 103

=Woodlands=, 31, 46

=Yarmouth=, 61

=_Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data_=

Finch, Robert, 1943-

Cape Cod: its natural and cultural history: a Guide to Cape Cod National Seashore. Massachusetts / by Robert Finch; produced by the Division of Publications, National Park Service, U.S. Department of the Interior.

p. cm.—(Official National Park handbook, Cape Cod National Seashore; handbook 148)

Includes index.

1. Cape Cod National Seashore (Mass.)—Guidebooks. I. United States. National Park Service. Division of Publications. II. Title. III. Series: Handbook (United States. National Park Service. Division of Publications); 148.

F72.C3F55 1993 917.44920443-dc20 92-40414 CIP Supt. of Docs, no.: 129.9/5: 148

ISBN 0-912627-56-5

⚝ GPO: 1997—417-646/40503
Printed on recycled paper
Reprint 1997

National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior

The National Park Service expresses its appreciation to all those persons who made the preparation and production of this handbook possible. The Service especially thanks Eastern National Park and Monument Association and The Friends of Cape Cod National Seashore for their financial support of this publication. All photos and artwork not credited below come from the files of Cape Cod National Seashore. Some materials are restricted against commercial reproduction. The book was designed by Richard Sheaff.

John Arsenault 95 whale watchers

Frank Balthis, 106 _Mayflower_

Tony Bonanno 62-63 Nauset C. G. Station, 104 rowboats

Tom Cawley, 43 sea-lavender and terrapin, 66-67 snowy egret, ruddy turnstone, and willet, 82-83 nightshade, heather, beach plum, cactus, dewberry, St. Johnswort, bellflower, mayflower, aster, laurel, star-flower, and cypress spurge

Concord Free Public Library 73 Thoreau

Donald Demers 38-39 Atwood-Higgins art, mortise

R. R. Donnelley GeoSystems 87 map, 88-89

Steve Dunwell back cover, 17, 19, 22, 68, 90 girl, 93 fisherman, 107 Nantucket

Roger Everett 66-67 dunlin, spotted sandpiper, merganser, yellowlegs, canvasback, eider, green-backed heron, sanderlings

Jeff Gnass 47, 102 schoolhouse, 105 station

Laurel Guadazno 82 goldenrod

Vincent Guadazno 59

William Hartley 16, 42-43 salt hay, snail, sea stars, scallop, lobster, anemone, eelgrass, sea robin, hermit, jelly, rock crabs, sea lettuce, 44, 66 osprey and oystercatcher, 82 water lily

Steven Heaslip, Cape Cod Times 28 inset

Historical Society of Old Yarmouth 51 Eldridge

William Johnson 6, 30, 53, 84-85, 86 umbrella, 92 lifeguard, 96 bikers, 101 windmill, 102 Penniman, 103 Great Island, 104 lighthouse, 109

Library of Congress, 32 Debry, 33 Champlain map, 36 both

Brad Luther, Coastal News Publications 60 map

Ralph Mackenzie 2-3, 9, 13, 18, 67 common terns and great blue heron, 87 artist, 100, 101 house, 105 blessing

Mariners Museum, Newport News 51 _Red Jacket_

Linda Minnich 58

David Muench 10-11, 12, 15,91 swamp

Mystic Seaport 46, 52

New Bedford Whaling Museum 48 whale, 106 figurehead

Dorothy Michele Novick 33 domed shelters, 75 cranberry art, 87 leaf, 90 crab, 93 shellfish, 94-95 whales, 98-99, 107 hawk, 108 tick, 111

Laurence Parent 97 swamp trail

Peabody Museum of Salem 50 Howes, 60-61 _Ulysses_

Pilgrim Society 33 treaty, 35 _Mayflower_

Mae Scanlan 8, 103 door

Richard Sheaff Collection 34 Pilgrims landing, 86 postcard and driver, 92 swimmer, 93 lure, 96 bike art

Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities 63

Chatham crew, 71, 76, 77

Spaceshots, Inc. 20-21 Landsat Cape Cod image

Tom Till front cover

Connie Toops 66 ring-billed gull

Robert Tope 26-27 waning glacier

Glenn Van Nimwegen 4-5, 14, 31, 37, 90 tracks

As the Nation’s principal conservation agency, the Department of the Interior has responsibility for most of our nationally owned public lands and natural resources. This includes fostering sound use of our land and water resources; protecting our fish, wildlife, and biological diversity; preserving the environmental and cultural values of our national parks and historical places; and providing for the enjoyment of life through outdoor recreation. The Department assesses our energy and mineral resources and works to ensure that their development is in the best interest of all our people by encouraging stewardship and citizen participation in their care. The Department also has a major responsibility for American Indian reservation communities and for people who live in island territories under U.S. Administration.

Cape Cod

=_Illustrated features and nearly 200 color photographs and historic images complement Robert Finch’s narrative about Cape Cod’s rich natural and cultural history. Maps and a guide section make this a practical handbook for travelers to the Cape and the National Seashore._=

ISBN 0-912627-56-5